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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY    MS80 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions 


Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historlques 


1980 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


Th€ 
to  1 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6X6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


Th€ 
pos 
of  1 
filrr 


n 
n 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  undommag^e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pelliculde 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


□    Coloured  maps/ 
Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

7]    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
_\_J    Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6X6  filmdes. 


n 
n 

n 

n 

D 
D 
D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolor^es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qudlit^  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t^  filmdes  6  nouveau  de  faqon  6 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Ori( 
beg 
the 
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firs 
sioi 
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Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires 


QThis  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 
Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

/ 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  bean  reproduced  thanks 
to  th9  generoHtty  of: 

Harriet  Irving  Library 
University  of  New  Brunswick 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gin^rosit^  de: 

Harriet  Irving  Library 
University  of  New  Brunswick 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  bent  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  image?  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  granci  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  netteti  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^-  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  film^s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  -h^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  ma,  he  ').   -^d  z* 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  to         ge  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  ':tc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


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BLHW"'"*™--    '■->:'   ,  "-^^ 


Xcwis  and  Clarh's  EjpeWtion. 


VOLUME   I, 


Edition  Limited  to  One  Thousand  Copies. 


Nos.  I  to  200  on  Ilaiulmade  Paper. 
Nos.  201  to  1000  on  Fine  Book  Taper. 

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HISTORY  OF  THH    HXPHDITION 


t'M>l-R    IIIK   CiiMMANI)   OK 


LHVVIS^Ni' CLARK. 


To  ///(•  Sourcs  of  I'lf  A/ifsoiiri  fiirrr,  t/uiuf  across  tlw  h'ocky  .1/oiiii/,ii>is  nit,/ 

i/own  th,-  Coliimhi.i  Rivn-  lo  llu-  l\uifh  0,,',iii,  pnfoiiiud  during 

I  lit    Wars  lSo.f  y-6,  hy  ();-,/,■;  ,.////<• 

GoVERNMIINT   OK   Till;    UnITI  I)   StaTI:S. 

A  NHW  HDITION, 

ruTiiFii.i.v   RriiKiNiHii   Kn.iM    i,rri     >m.v    Airii()Ki.:n)    Kuition   (ii-    1814,  wrrii  Cnpioi-s 

CkITICM.     C'.IMMKNIMVV,      PkRJVUKU      II'IIN      ExvMJNAIlON      OK      rNIMIII.ISllKI) 

Ofkiciai.  Akchives  AM)  Many  (Ithkh  SufHc  ks  i.f  Infok.maiicin, 

I>:CI.lIDINO   A    Dll.niKNT  S1I.DV   or    IIIK 


ORIGINAL  MANUSCRIPT  JOURNALS 

A\l> 

FIHLD    NOTHBOOKS    OF   Till-    r.XPLORi:RS. 


TOGKTIIK.I!    Willi 


tl  Wcw  »f0(irapbical  an?  JBlMio.uMiiblcal  1Inti\iMictioii,  ttcw  /Ratij 
aiiA  otbcc  1Uu8tratfoM0,  o.\\t>  n  Complete  filler. 


IIY 


KLLIOI  I    COLLS 

I.alt  r,i//.i/«  and  Assistant  Surgton,  Vn!t,\l  St.itt-t  Army, 
Late  SiCrft.iry  ,,,!./  X.ttHritHsl,  Ciiit,;/  Slat.s  Cfa/ogu.i/  Siiivfy, 
Mtmlur  0/  the  Xa;i,<ii.i/  Ai.i.ieniy  ,•/ .S'cirnr.-s,  ft,. 


IN  l-OUR  voi.LiMrs. 

Vol..    I. 


NEW  YORK. 

\  K'A\<   !^    I-      ti  \kL(  K 

'S93 


Copyright,  iSji, 

II V 

FRANCIS  \:  IIAKI'ER. 


A//  rii^hts  rtsirvtd. 


I    ! 


3' /,'■'.  % 


H)c6lcatlon, 


To  the  Tcople  of  tuc  Great  fVest. 


Jefferson  gave  you  the  country.  Lewis  and  Clark  shmved 
you  the  u\n<.  The  rest  is  your  own  course  of  empire.  Honor 
the  statesman  rcho  foresaw  your  IVest.  Honor  the  brave  men 
'uho first  sa-u< your  IVest.  May  the  memory  of  their  glorious 
achievement  he  your  precious  heritage  !  Accept  from  my  heart 
this  undying  record  of  the  beginning  of  all  your  greatness. 

E.  C. 


^_:a.. 


t 


^ 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION. 


CWEWIS  AND  CLARK'S  Expedition  from  the  Mississippi 
''^^  river  to  the  Pacific  ocean  was  the  first  governmental  ex- 
ploration of  the  "  Great  West."     The  History  of  this  under- 
taking istlie  personal  narrative  and  official  report  of  the  first 
white  men  who  crossed  the  continent  between  the   British 
and  Spanish  possessions.     When  these  pioneers  passed  the 
Rocky  mountains,  none  but  Indians  had  ascended  the  Mis- 
souri   river  to    the    Yellowstone,  and    none  had  navigated 
the  Columbia  to  the  head   of   tide-water.     The  route  was 
from   Illinois  through    regions   since    mapped  as   Missouri, 
Kansas,    Iowa,    Nebraska,    South    Dakota,    North    Dakota,' 
Montana,    Idaho,    Washington,    and    Oregon.       The    main 
water-ways  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  mountains  were  the 
Missouri  and  Yellowstone  ;  on  the  Pacific  side,  Lewis'  river, 
the    Kooskooskec,  and    the    Columbia.      The    Continental 
Divide  was  surmounted  in  three  different  places,  many  miles 
apart.     The  actual  travel  by  land  and  water,  including  vari- 
ous side-trips,  amounted  to  about  one-third  the  circumference 
of  the  globe.     This  cost  but  one  life,  and  was  clone  without 
another  seriou.^^  casualty,  though  often  with  great  hardship 
sometimes  much  suffering,  and  occasional  imminent  peril' 
The  discipline  of  the  party  was  perfect.     The  comparatively 
youthful  and  inexperienced  captains  developed  the  qualities 
of   ideal  leaders,  dauntless,  resourceful,  indefatigable,  vigi- 
lant, absolute  in  command,  solicitous  for  the  welfare  of  their 
men,  and   imposing   no  privation   unshared   by  themselves 
The  duration  of  the  journey  was  from  May,  KS04,  to  Sep- 
tember.   1806;  and    from   April,    1S05.  to   August.    1806,  all 
communication  with  the  world  was  suspended.     The  stor>^ 

V 


VI 


I'KKIACK    lO     rilK    NKW    EDITION. 


of  this  adventure  stands  easily  first  and  alone.  This  is  our 
national  ejiic  of  exploration,  conceived  by  Thomas  Jeffer- 
son, wrouffht  out  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  and  giv'en  to  the 
world  by  Nicholas  Biddle. 

Perhaps  no  traveler's  tale  has  ever  been  told  with  greater 
fidelity  and  minuteness,  or  has  more  nearly  achieved  abso- 
lute accuracy.  Our  heroes  proved  also  model  journalists. 
The  imagination  of  Defoe,  which  evolved  a  fiction  with 
startling  verisimilitude,  has  been  matched  by  those  acute 
powers  of  actual  ob.servation  which  gave  us  what  we  may 
call  the  "  Robinson  Crusoe  "  of  fact. 

It  is  singular  that  this  History,  which  has  held  its  own  for 
nearly  a  century  as  a  standard  work  of  reference,  has  never 
before  been  republished  in  full,  nor  ever  until  now  been  sub- 
jected to  searching  and  systematic  criticism.  The  more 
closely  it  is  scrutinized,  in  the  light  of  our  present  knowl- 
edge, the  more  luminous  it  appears.  The  severest  tests 
which  contemporaneous  criticism  can  apply  serve  mainly  to 
develop  its  strength  and  worth.  The  printed  narrative 
would  carry  easily  twice  as  much  commentary  as  is  now  put 
upon  it ;  for  it  continually  challenges  and  solicits  the  edi- 
torial pen,  even  without  reference  to  those  manuscript 
records  which  have  proved  a  very  mine  of  new  wealth. 

The  present  edition  is  accurately  described  upon  its  title- 
page.  The  editorial  notes  are  so  copious  and  so  various 
that  there  is  little  left  to  be  said  by  way  of  preface.  In 
undertaking  the  worl:,  I  expected  to  do  little  more  than 
supervise  a  reprint  of  the  original  text.  The  acquisition  of 
the  manuscripts  was  not  foreseen  ;  nor  had  I  any  idea  of  the 
embarrassing  richness  of  resources  about  to  become  mine. 
The  publisher,  with  not  less  sagacity  than  liberality,  altered 
his  previous  plans  accordingly,  and  left  the  whole  matter  in 
my  hands.  The  question  whether  a  new  History  of  the 
Expedition  should  be  written  was  promptly  answered  in  the 
negative.  The  present  edition  gives  the  Riddle  text  with 
scrupulous  fidelity,  even  to  indicating  the  original  pagina- 
tion—a convenience  which  every  scholar  will  appreciate  as 


rKKKACE   TO   THK    NEW    EDITION. 


VII 


highly  as  he  does  the  unbroken  numbering  of  pages  of  the 
present  volumes.  But  I  have  not  found  it  necessary  to 
make  a  fetich  of  that  text.  I  have  punctilious  preserved 
the  orthography  of  proper  names '  in  all  their  variance  and 
eccentricity ;  and  wherever  I  have  amplified  any  statement 
in  the  text,  or  diverted  the  sense  of  a  passage  by  a  hair's 
breadth,  square  brackets  indicate  the  fact.  Yet  I  have  not 
hesitated  to  touch  the  text  here  and  there  in  a  mere  matter 
of  grammar  or  punctuation.  For  the  rest.  I  have  prepared 
new  titles  and  synopses  of  the  chapters,  and  new  headlines 
of  the  pages  ;  one  new  chapter  is  interpolated,  by  digesting 
the  Clatsop  diary  for  that  purpose.  Excepting  in  these 
several  respects,  the  present  edition  is  literally  true  to  the 
original.     Nothing  whatever  is  omitted. 

The  copy  for  this  edition  was  actually  in  the  printer's 
hands,  in  December,  1892,  when  I  f^rst  found  myself  in  pos- 
session of  over  3.000  pages  of  Lewis'  and  of  Clark's  manu- 
script. Consequently,  what  would  otherwise  have  been 
simple  supervision  was  turned  into  the  very  arduous  and 
exacting  editorial  function  which  is  represented  by  my  notes. 
With  scarcely  an  exception  these  were  penned  while  a  lively 
corps  of  compositors  was  setting  type,  from  January  to  June, 
1893.  As  this  work  upon  press-proofs  included  all  the 
research  which  the  notes  represent,  the  demand  upon  my 
mental  alertness  and  staying  powers  proved  more  severe 
than  I  should  care  to  meet  again.  It  was  a  daily  draft  upon 
a  fund  of  omniscience  which  I  am  satisfied  I  never  possessed. 
These  circumstances  are  not  cited  to  forestall  criticism,  or 
condone  any  offense  of  which  I  may  be  convicted.  I  hope 
that  every  error  which  I  have  not  detected  in  the  orginal 
text,  and  every  one  which  I  have  committed,  whether  in 
ignorance  or  by  inadvertence,  may  be  exposed  and  cor- 
rected— to  the  end  that  "  Lewis  and  Clark,"  whose  develop- 

'  Excepting  Cai)t.iin  Clark's,  which  «a.s  wrongly  '•  Clarke"  throughout,  and 
is  now  correctly  resi.elled  ;  and  cxce|>t  in  one  or  two  other  cases,  notably  of 
Kansas  for  "  Kan/as,"  in  which  the  modern  sjjcUing  of  a  familiar  name  is 
inadvertently  given. 


Vlll 


rREKACE   TO   THK    NKW    KDITION. 


ment  ought  to  be  brought  abreast  of  that  of  the  Great 
West,  may  approximate  to  that  perfection  which  is  said  to 
belong  to  the  gods. 

My  commentary  relates  mainly  to  geography,  ethnology, 
and  natural  history  ;  but  it  is  too  extensive  and  diversified 
to  be  concisely  described,  and  if  it  cannot  speak  for  itself, 
there  is  nothing  to  be  said  about  it.  I  wish  that  the  literal 
extracts  from  the  codices  were  more  copious  than  they  are ; 
but  all  books,  even  such  as  this  one,  have  necessary  limits. 
The  rest  of  the  new  matter  in  these  volumes  consists  of  a 
Supplement  to  Jefferson's  Memoir  of  Lewis,  Memoirs  of 
Clark  and  of  Gass,  respectively,  a  bibliography,  a  much- 
needed  index,  this  preface,  and  various  illustrations.  The 
modern  map  was  selected  as  being  on  about  the  same  scale 
as  Captain  Clark's  original,  thus  facilitating  comparison  of 
his  with  our  geography.  Hut  as  it  was  not  drawn  for  this 
work,  I  am  responsible  for  nothing  that  appears  upon  it 
excepting  the  red  marks  I  have  made  to  indicate  the  route. 
These  will  be  found  as  accurate  as  the  map  permits  them 
to  be ;  but  the  result  is  to  be  taken  simply  as  a  diagram. 

Many  friends,  both  known  and  unknown  to  me  person- 
ally, have  shouMi  their  interest  in  this  work,  and  contributed 
to  such  excellence  as  the  new  matter  it  contains  may  be 
found  to  possess.  My  most  sincere  as  wc.l  as  most  formal 
acknowledgments  are  due  to  the  American  Philosophical 
Society  of  Philadelphia,  which  did  not  hesitate  to  trust  the 
precious  manuscripts  to  my  keeping,  and  whose  Secretary. 
Mr.  Henry  Phillips,  Jr.,  showed  me  every  jiersonal  attention' 
Mr.  Alfred  J.  Hill  of  St.  Paul,  Minn.,  helped  me  more  than 
any  other  individual,  with  constant  suggestion  and  criticism, 
and  by  the  loan  of  several  manuscript  charts  he  had  prepared 
for  his  own  use  with  special  reference  to  Lewis  and  Clark, 
as  well  as  by  calling  my  attention  to  various  things  which  I 
might  or  should  have  otherwise  overlooked.  My  citations  of 
certain  authcrities,  notably  Perrin  du  Lac,  are  upon  Mr.  Hill's 
representations.  Access  to  and  use  of  the  archives  of  the 
State  and  War  Departments,  by  permission  of    the  respect- 


I'KKFACK    TO   TIIK    NKW    EDITION. 


ix 


ivc  secretaries,  was  facilitated,  in  the  former,  by  Mr.  Andrew 
If.  Allen,  Chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Rolls  and  Library,  and  Mr. 
Walter  Manton,  of  the  same  Bureau,  as  well  as  by  Mr.  W.  W. 
Rockhill,  Chief  Clerk;    and    in    the    latter,  by  Mr.  Samuel 
Ilodgkins,  Chief  of  the  Record  Division,  and  Mr.  David  Fitz 
Gcral'J,  Librarian,  as  well  as  by  Mr.  John  Tweedale,  Chief 
Clerk,  and  Gen.  Lewis  A.  Grant,  Assistant  Secretary  of  War. 
Mr.  A.   R.  Spofford    of    the    Library  of   Congress ;    Major 
J.  W.  Powell,  Director  of  the  U.  S.  Geological  Survey  and 
of  the  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Ethnology;  Mr.  Henry  Gannett,  of 
the  same  Survey  ;   I'rof.  G.  Brown  Goode,  Director  of  the 
U.  S.  National  Museum^   Prof.  T.  C.  Mendenhall,  Superin- 
tendent of  the  U.  S.  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey ;  Mr.  R.  A. 
Brock,  Secretar>' of  the   Virginia    Historical   Society;   Hon. 
Charles  Aldrich  of  the  State  Historical  Department  of  Iowa  ; 
and  Mr.  M.  S.  Hill,  Secretary  of  the  Taconia  Academy  of 
Sciences,  each  rendered  valued  official  and   personal   favors. 
Judge  Craig  Biddle  of    Philadelphia;  Mr.  Horace  Howard 
Furness  of  the  same  city;  Judge  James  T.  Mitchell  of  the 
Supreme  Court  of  Pennsylvania  ;  Mr.  Jefferson  K.  Clark  of  St. 
Louis  ;  Mr.  Wm.  Hancock  Clark  of  Detroit,  Mich.;  Col.  Meri- 
wether Lewis  Clark  of  Louisville,  K>-.  ;  Mr.  V.  L.  Billon  of  St. 
Louis,  Mo.;  and  Mr.  R.  S.  Voorhis  of  Hannibal,  Mo.,  supplied 
various    data,    biographical  and   historical.     In   natural  his- 
tory, my  tliaiiks   are  due    to   Prof.   Theodore    Gill    of    the 
Smithsonian  Institution ;   Mr.  B.  W.  Evermann  ;   Prof.  E.  D. 
Cope  of  the  University  of  Pennsylvania  ;   Mr.  L.  O.  Howard 
of  the   Agricultural  Department ;  and  especially  Mr.  F.  H. 
Knowlton,  wLo  made  most  of  the  botanical  identifications. 
I    have    also    to    thank    for    various    favors   the    Hon.    the 
Commissioners  of  the   General   Land  OfBce  and  of  the  In- 
dian Bureau,  respectively  ;  the  Directors  of  the  Black  Eagle 
Fails   Dam  ;  the  Mayor  of  Benton,  Mont.;   Professor  Alfred 
Newton    of  Cambridge,   Eng.;  Mr.  W.    P.    Garrison    of  the 
New  York   Nation;  Judge  James  Wickersham  of  Tacoma, 
Wash.;    Prof.    J.  A.   Allen    of    the    American    Museum    of 
Natural    History,  N.  V.;  Mr.  James  E.  Jiabb  of    Lewiston, 


X  I'RKFAt'K   Tf)  THK   NEW    EDITION. 

Idaho;  Mr.  Peter  Koch  of  Hozeman,  Mont.;  Governor 
Buchanan  of  Tcnne.ssce  ;  Mr.  James  D.  Park  of  Franklin, 
Tcnn.;  Mr.  J.  G.  Jacob  ol  Wellsburg,  W.  Va.;  Col.  E. 
Polk  Johnson  of  Frankfort,  Ky.;  Judge  R.  T.  Durrett 
of  Louisville,  Ky. ;  Judge  John  M.  Lea  of  Nashville,  Tenn.; 
Dr.  W.  C.  N.  Randolph  of  Charlottesville,  Va.;  Mr.  F. 
Firmstone  of  Easton,  Pa.;  Rev.  Dr.  Edward  D.  Neill  of 
St.  Paul,  Minn.;  Gen.  John  Gibbon,  U.  S.  Army;  Mrs. 
Mary  B.  Anderson  of  Washington,  D.  C,  who  prepared 
the  index  under  my  direction;  and  Mr.  Robert  M.  Trulan, 
of  the  Mershon  Printing  Company,  whose  faithful  and  skill- 
ful attentions  were  animated  by  an  intelligent  interest  in 
the  subject-matter,  and  who  very  ably  seconded  my  cfTorts 
to  produce  an  accurate  impression.  Most  of  my  corre- 
spondents are  also  named  in  the  course  of  my  notes,  where 
each  such  recognition  seemed  not  less  a  pleasure  than  a 
duty. 

Elliott  Coues. 

Smithsonian  Institition,  Washington,  D.  C, 
June  201  li,  1893. 


i 


SklM 


CONTENTS 


OF 


THE  FIRST  VOLUME. 


PACII 

PREFACE   BY  THE   EDITOR ^ 

Preface  to  the  Original  Edition,  ....         xiii 

Me.moir  of  Meriwether  Lewis.    By  Thomas  Jeffer.son,  xv 

Supplement    to    Jefferson's    Memoir    of    Meriwether 

Lewis.    By  Dr.  Coues xliii 

Memoir  of  William  Clark.    By  Dr.  Coues,  .        .         ixiii 

Memoir  of  Patrick  Gass.    By  Dr.  Coues,       .       .        .        xcix 

Bibliographical  Introduction cvii 

HISTORY  OF   THE  EXPEDITION. 

CHAPTER   L 
Up  the  Missouri  to  the  Platte i 

CHAPTER   H. 

The    Missouri    from    the    Platte   to   the   Vermilion 

River .^ 

CHAPTER   U\. 

The  Missouri  from  Vermilion  to  Teton  River,       .       .      85 

CHAPTER    IV. 
The  Missouri  from  Tfton  River  to  the  Mandans,         .    132 

xi 


Xlt 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    V. 

Wintering  with  the  Mandans. 

CHAPTER    VI. 
With  the  Manuans:  Continued, 


rACR 

i8u 


2I8 


CHAPTER    VU. 
The  Missouri  from  Fort  Mandan  to  the  Yellowston 


E.      248 


CHAPTER    VHI. 

The  M1S.S0URI   FROM  the  Yellow.stone  to  the  Mussel- 
shell,   . 


287 


CHAPTER    IX. 
The  Missouri  from  the  Musselshell  to  Maria's  River,    32, 


i 


\\ 


\atimm 


m 


PREFACE  TO  THE  ORIGINAL  EDITION. 


In  presenting  these  volumes  to  the  public,  the  editor  owes 
cHiualiy  to  himself  and  to  others  to  state  the  circumstances 
which  have  preceded  the  publication,  and  tc  explain  his  own 
share  in  compiling  them. 

It  was  the  original  design  of  Captain  Lewis  to  have  been 
himself  the  editor  of  his  own  tfavels,  and  he  was  on  his  way 
toward  Philadelphia  for  that  purpose  when  his  sudden  death 
frustrated  these  intentions.  After  a  considerable  and  un- 
avoidable  delay,  the  papers  connected  with  the  Expedition 
were  deposited  with  another  gentleman  [Nicholas  liiddle  |, 
who,  in  order  to  render  the  lapse  of  time  as  little  injurious 
as  possible,  proceeded  immediately  to  collect  and  investigate 
all  the  materials  within  his  reach. 

Of  the  incidents  of  each  day  during  the  Expedition,  a  mi- 
nute  journal  was  kept  by  Captain  Lewis  or  Captain  Clark, 
and  sometimes  by  both,  which  was  afterward  revised  and 
enlarged  at  the  different  periods  of  leisure  which  occurred 
on  the  route.  These  were  carefully  perused  in  conjunction 
with  Captain  Clark  himself,  who  was  able,  from  his  own 
recollection  of  the  journey,  as  well  as  from  a  constant  resi- 
dence  in  Louisiana  since  his  return,  to  supply  a  great  mass 
of  explanations,  and  much  additional  information  with 
regard  to  part  of  the  route  which  has  been  more  recently  ex- 
plored. Hesidcs  these,  recourse  was  had  to  the  manuscript 
journals  (/.  iv)  kept  by  two  of  tlie  sergeants  [John  Ord- 
way  and  Patrick  Gass],  one  of  which  [Gass'],  the  least 
minute  and  valuable,  has  already  been  published.  That 
nothing  might  be  wanting  to  the  accuracy  of  these  details, 
a  very  intelligent  and  active  member  of  the  party,  Mr. 
George  Shannon,  was  sent  to  contribute  whatever  his  mem- 
ory might   add   to   this  accumulated  fund   of  information. 


xiv 


PREFACE  TO  THE   ORHilNAl,   EDITION. 


From  these  copious  materials  the  narrative  was  sketched 
nearly  in  its  present  form,  wlun  other  pursuits  divertiil  the 
attention  of  tlie  writer  and  coinpelKil  him  lo  transfer  iiis 
manuscript,  in  its  unfinished  state,  with  all  the  documents 
connected  with  it,  to  the  present  editor,  to  prepare  them  for 
the  press  and  superintend  the  publication.  'I'hat  he  may  not 
seem  to  arrogate  anytliiny  from  the  exertions  of  others,  lie 
should  therefore  state  that,  although  the  whole  work  was 
thus  submitted  to  his  entire  discretion,  he  fc^unil  but  little 
to  chanjje,  and  that  his  labor  has  been  principally  confined 
to  revising  the  manuscript,  comparing  it  with  the  original 
papers,  and  inserting  such  additional  matter  as  appears  to 
have  been  intentionally  deferred  by  the  writer  till  the  jieriod 
of  a  more  mature  revisal.  These  circumstances,  which 
would  otherwise  be  indifferent  to  the  public,  are  mentioned 
merely  to  account  for  imperfections,  which  are  in  some 
degree  inseparable  from  any  book  of  travels  not  written  by 
the  traveler.  In  a  work  of  pure  description  indeed,  like  the 
present,  where  the  incidents  themselves  are  the  sole  objects 
of  attraction,  the  i)art  of  an  editor  is  necessarily  subordinate, 
nor  can  his  huPible  pretensions  aspire  beyond  the  merit  of 
rigid  adherence  to  facts  as  they  are  stated  to  him.  This 
has  been  very  diligently  attempted,  and  for  this,  in  its  full 
extent,  the  eilitor  deems  himself  responsible. 

The  present  volumes,  it  will  be  perceived,  comprise  only 
the  narrative  of  the  journey.  Those  parts  of  the  work 
which  relate  to  the  various  objects  of  natural  history  ob- 
served or  collected  during  the  journey,  as  well  as  the  alpha- 
bets of  the  (/.  7)  Indian  languages,  are  in  the  hands  of 
Professor  [Benjamin  S.  |  Harton,  and  will,  it  is  understood, 
shortly  appear.     |  .See  note  ",  p.  400.] 

To  give  still  further  interest  to  the  work  the  editor  ad- 
dressed a  letter  to  Mr.  [Thomas]  Jefferson,  requesting  some 
authentic  memoirs  of  Captain  Lewis.  For  the  very  curious 
and  valuable  information  contained  in  his  answer,  the  j)ublic, 
as  well  as  the  editor  himself,  owe  great  obligations  to  the 
politeness  and  knowledge  of  that  distinguished  gentleman. 

Paul  Allen. 

I'lllI.Al)KI.l'lllA,y</««i);T  1st,   I814. 


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MEMOIR  OF  MERIWETHER  LEWIS. 


f 


\LeUer  from  Ex-President  Thomas  Jefferson.'] 

MONTICELLO,  August  \8f/l,  1813. 
Sir:  In  compliance  with  the  request  conveyed  in  your  let- 
ter of  May  25th,'  I  have  endeavored  to  obtain,  from  the  rela- 
tions and  friends  of  the  late  Governor  Lewis,  information  of 
such  incidents  of  his  life  as  might  be  not  unacceptable  to 
those  who  may  read  the  narrative  of  his  Western  discoveries. 
The  ordinary  occurrences  of  a  private  life,  and  those  also 
while  acting  in  a  subordinate  sphere  in  the  Army,  in  a  time 
of  peace,  are  not  deemed  sufficiently  interesting  to  occupy 
the  public  attention  ;  but  a  general  account  of  his  parentage, 

'  This  letter  is  not  on  file  among  the  Jefferson  Papers  in  the  Bureau  of  Rolls 
and  Library  of  the  State  Department  at  Washington,  and  probably  was  not  pre- 
served. The  rest  of  the  record  of  Mr.  Jefferson's  connection  with  the  History 
'  f  the  Expedition  is  complete  in  these  archives.  The  original  manuscript  of  the 
Memoir  of  Lewis,  in  Mr.  Jefferson's  hand-writing,  six  folios  or  twelve  pages  of 
letter-papei ,  now  forms  Docs.  Nos.  222  and  223  of  Vol.  13  of  the  ist  teries  of 
the  Jefferson  Papers.  Doc.  No.  138,  Jeff.  Papers,  2d.  ser.,  \'ol.  3,  is  a  letter 
from  Mr.  Jefferson  to  Mr.  Allen,  requesting  to  be  informed  when  the  Memoir 
would  be  required,  etc.  Doc.  No.  139,  ifiid.,  letter  from  the  same  to  the  same, 
forwards  the  manuscript  of  the  Memoir  therewith,  orders  13  copies  of  the  His- 
tory, etc.  Doc.  No.  136,  iiiJ.,  is  a  letter  from  Mr.  Allen  to  Mr.  Jefferson, 
dated  Philadelphia,  Aug.  i8th,  1813,  in  which  is  exhibited  an  achievement  in 
impudence  that  deserves  to  become  historical.  The  person  says  :  "  I  am  not 
apprehensive  that  the  fulness  of  your  Biography  [of  Lewis]  will  be  an  obstacle 
to  its  publication,  now  that  I  have  prevailed  upon  the  Booksellers  to  procras- 
tinate the  volumes.  I  wish  very  much  to  enliven  the  dulness  of  the  [Biddle] 
narrative  by  something  more  popular,  splendid  and  attractive.  The  publick 
taste,"  etc.,  a,i  nauseam.  Doc.  No.  137,  ibid.,  is  a  letter  from  the  same  to  the 
same,  dated  Philadelphia,  Dec.  i8th,  1813,  in  which  the  writer  patronizes  the  name 
and  fame  of  Captain  Lewis,  does  not  care  to  have  any  biography  of  Captain 
Clark,  and  favors  the  Ex-iVcMdent  of  the  United  States  with  sundry  rellections 
and  opinions.     In  this  matter,  of  course,  the  real  understanding  was  between 

XV 


XVI 


MEMOIR   OF   MERIWETHER   LEWIS. 


with  such  smaller  incidents  as  marked  his  early  character, 
are  briefly  noted  ;  and  to  these  are  added,  as  being  peculiarly 
within  my  own  knowledge,  whatever  related  to  the  public 
mission  of  which  an  account  is  now  to  be  published.  The 
result  of  my  inquiries  and  recollections  shall  now  be  offered, 
to  be  enlarged  or  abridged  as  you  may  think  best ;  or  other- 
wise to  be  used  with  the  materials  you  may  have  collected 
from  other  sources. 

Meriwether  Lewis,  late  Governor  of  Louisiana,  was  born 
on  the  i8th  of  August,  1774,  near  the  town  of  Charlottes- 
ville, in  the  County  of  Albemarle,  in  Virginia,  of  one  of  the 
distinguished  families  of  that  state.  John  Lewis,  one 
(/».  viii)  of  his  father's  uncles,  was  a  member  of  the  king's 
council  before  the  Revolution.  Another  of  them,  Fielding 
Lewis,  married  a  sister  of  General  Washington.  His  father, 
William  Lewis,  was  the  youngest  of  five  sons  of  Colonel 
Robert  Lewis  of  Albemarle,  the  fourth  of  whom,  Charles, 
was  one  of  tlie  early  patriots  who  stepped  forward  in  the 
commencement  of  the  Revolution,  and  commanded  one  of 
the  regiments  first  raised  in  Virginia  and  placed  on  con- 
Mr,  Jefferson  and  Mr.  Middle  ;  the  correspondence  shows  that  Mr.  .\llen  was  a 
mere  dummy.  The  Memoir  of  Lewis  was  actually  transmitted  and  submiUed  by 
Mr.  Jefferson  to  Mr.  Diddle  ;  witness  Doc.  No.  52,  Jeff.  Papers,  2d.  ser.,  Vol. 
11 ,  as  follow  s  ■. 

Monticcllo,  Aug.   20,    1813. 
Sir 

In  a  letter  from  mr  Paul  Allen  of  Philadel|)hia  I  was  informed  that 
other  business  had  obliged  you  to  turn  over  to  him  the  publication  of  Gov"". 
Lewis's  j0urn.1l  of  his  Western  expedition  ;  and  he  re<iuested  me  to  furnish  him 
with  any  materials  1  could  for  writing  a  sketch  of  his  life.  I  now  enclose  him 
such  as  I  have  been  able  to  procure,  to  be  used  with  any  other  information  he 
may  have  received,  or  alone,  if  he  has  no  other,  or  in  any  way  you  &  he  shall 
think  proper.  The  part  you  have  been  so  good  as  to  take  in  digesting  the  work 
entitles  you  to  decide  on  whatever  maybe  jiroposed  to  go  out  under  it's  ausjiiccs, 
and  on  this  ground  I  take  the  liberty  of  putting  under  cover  to  you,  and  for 
your  |)erusal,  my  letter  to  mr  Allen,  which  1  will  retpiest  you  to  seal  i:  hand 
on  to  him.  I  am  happy  in  this  occasion  of  expressing  my  portion  of  the  thanks 
all  will  owe  you  for  the  trouble  you  have  taken  with  this  interesting  narrative, 
and  the  assurance  of  my  sentiments  of  high  esteem  and  respect. 

Th  ;  Jefferson. 

Mr.  Biddle. 


i 


MEMOIR   or   MERIWETHER   LEWIS. 


XVII 


i 


tinental  establishment.  Happil}'  situated  at  home,  with  a 
wife  and  young  family,  and  a  fortune  placing  him  at  ease, 
he  left  all  to  aid  in  the  liberation  of  his  country  from  foreign 
usurpations,  then  first  unmasking  their  ultimate  end  and  aim. 
His  good  sense,  integrity,  bravery,  enterprise,  and  remark- 
able bodily  powers  marked  him  as  an  officer  of  great 
promise  ;  but  he  unfortunately  died  early  in  the  Revolution. 
Nicholas  Lewis,  the  second  of  his  father's  brothers,  com- 
manded a  regiment  of  militia  in  the  successful  expedition  of 
1776  against  the  Cherokee  Indians;  who,  seduced  by  the 
agents  of  the  British  government  to  take  up  the  hatchet 
against  us,  had  committed  great  havoc  on  our  southern 
frontier,  by  murdering  and  scalping  helpless  women  and 
children,  according  to  their  cruel  and  cowardly  principles  of 
warfare.  The  chastisement  they  then  received  closed  the 
history  of  their  wars,  and  prepared  them  for  receiving  the 
elements  of  civilization,  which,  zealously  inculcated  by  the 
present  government  of  the  United  States,  have  rendered 
tliem  an  industrious,  peaceable,  and  happy  people.  This 
member  of  the  family  of  Lewises,  whose  bravery  was  so  use- 
fully proved  on  this  occasion,  was  endeared  to  all  who  knew 
him  by  his  inflexible  probity,  courteous  disposition,  benevo- 
lent heart,  and  engaging  modesty  and  manners.  He  was 
the  umpire  of  all  the  private  differences  of  his  county — 
selected  always  by  both  parties.  He  was  also  the  guardian 
of  Meriwether  Lewis,  of  whom  we  are  now  to  speak,  and 
who  had  lost  his  father  at  an  early  age. 

He  [Meriwether]  continued  some  years  under  the  foster- 
ing care  of  a  tender  mother,  of  the  respectable  family  of 
Merivvethers,  (/>.  />)  of  the  same  county;  and  was  remark- 
able, even  in  infancy,  for  enterprise,  boldness,  and  discretion. 

When  only  eight  years  of  age  he  habitually  went  out,  in 
the  dead  of  night,  alone  with  his  dogs,  into  the  forest  to 
hunt  the  raccoon  and  opossum,  which,  seeking  their  food  in 
the  night,  can  then  only  be  taken.  In  this  exercise,  no  sea- 
son or  circumstance  could  obstruct  his  purpose— plunging 
through  the  winter's  snows  and  frozen  streams  in  pursuit  of  his 


■■T-—  mjtJim  ,.maf—  ^~— 


XVUl 


MKMOIK   OK    MKKIWKTHER    LEWIS. 


object.  At  13  he  was  put  to  the  Latin  school,  and  continued 
[under  the  tuition  of  Dr.  Everett,  Parson  Maury,  and  Parson 
Wardcll]  at  that  until  18,  when  he  returned  to  his  mother 
and  entered  on  the  cares  of  his  farm ;  having,  as  well  as  a 
younger  brother,  been  left  by  his  father  with  a  competency 
for  all  the  correct  and  comfortable  purposes  of  temperate 
life.  His  talent  for  observation,  which  had  led  him  to  an 
accurate  knowledge  of  the  plants  and  animals  of  his  own 
country,  would  have  distinguished  him  as  a  farmer;  but  at 
the  age  of  20,  yielding  to  the  ardor  of  youth  and  a  passion 
for  more  dazzling  pursuits,  he  engaged  as  a  volunteer  in  the 
body  of  militia  which  were  called  out  by  General  Washing- 
ton, on  occasion  of  the  discontents  produced  by  the  excise 
taxes  in  the  western  parts  of  the  United  States;'  and  from 
that  situation  he  was  removed  to  the  regular  service  as  a 
lieutenant  in  the  line.  At  23  [in  1797]  he  was  promoted  to 
a  captaincy  ;  and,  always  attracting  the  first  attention  where 
punctuality  and  fidelity  were  requisite,  he  was  appointed 
paymaster  to  his  regiment.  About  this  time  a  circumstance 
occurred  which,  leading  to  the  transaction  which  is  the  sub- 
ject of  this  book,  will  justify  a  recurrence  to  its  original  idea. 
While  I  resided  in  Paris,  John  Ledyard  of  Connecticut 
arrived  there,  well  known  in  the  United  States  for  energy  of 
body  and  mind.  He  had  accompanied  Captain  Cook  on  his 
voyage  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  distinguished  himself  on  that 
voyage  by  his  intrepidity.  Being  of  a  roaming  disposition, 
he  was  now  panting  for  some  new  enterprise.  His  imme- 
diate object  at  Paris  was  to  engage  a  mercantile  company  in 
the  fur  trade  of  the  western  coast  of  America,  in  {p.  x) 
which,  however,  he  failed.  I  then  proposed  to  him  to  go  by 
land  to  Kamtschatka,  cross  in  some  of  the  Russian  vessels  to 
Nootka  Sound,  fall  down  into  the  latitude  of  the  Missouri, 
and  penetrate  to  and  through  that  to  the  United  States. 
He  eagerly  seized  the  idea,  and  (Mily  asked  to  be  assured  of 


'  The  "  discontents  "  thus  delicately  suggested  are  better  known  to  history  .is 
the  "  Whisky  Insurrection  "  of  1794-  The  malcontents  were  cilled  "  insurgents." 
Young  Lewis  enlisted  .is  a  private  under  one  T.  Walker. 


f 


MEMOIR    OF    MKRIWETHKR    LEWIS.  xix 

tlie  permission  of  the  Russian  fjovernment.     I  interested,  in 
obtaining  this,  M.  dc  Simoulin,  Minister  Plenipotentiary  of 
the   Empress  at  Paris,  but   more  especially  the   Baron  de 
Grimm,   Minister  Plenipotentiary  of  Saxe-Gotha,  her  more 
special  agent  and  correspondent  there  in  matters  not  imme- 
diately diplomatic.     Her  permission  was  obtained,  and  an 
assurance    of   protection   while    the   course  of   the   voyage 
should  be  through  her  territories.     Ledyard  set  out  from 
Paris,  and  arrived  at  St.  Petersburgh  after  the  Empress  had 
left  that  place  to  pass  the  winter,  I  think,  at  Moscow.     His 
finances  not  permitting  him  to  make  unnecessary  stay  at  St. 
Petersburgh,  he  left  it  with  a  passport  from  one  of  the  minis- 
ters ;  and  at  -oo  miles  from  Kamtchatka,  was  obliged  to  take 
up  his  winter-quarters.      He  was  preparing,  in  the  spring,  to 
resume  his  journey,  when   he   was  arrested  by  an  ofificer'  of 
the  Empress,  who  by  this  time  had  changed  her  mind  and 
forbidden  his  proceeding.     He  was  put  into  a  close  carriage, 
and  conveyed   day   and    night,    without    ever   stopping,  till 
they  reached   Poland  ;  where  he  was  set  down  and  left  to 
himself.     The  fatigue  of  this  journey  broke  down  his  con- 
stitution ;  and  when  he  returned  to  Paris  his  bodily  strength 
was  much    impaired.      His  mind,  however,   remained   firm, 
and    he    after   this    undertook    the   journey  to     Egypt.     I 
received  a  letter  from  him,  full  of  sanguine  hopes,  dated  at 
Cairo,  the    15th  of  November,  1788.  the   day  before  he  was 
to  set   out  for  the  head  of  the  Nile  ;  on   which   day,  how- 
ever, he  ended   his  career  and   life.     Thus  failed   the   first 
attempt  to  explore  the  western  part  of  our  northern  conti- 
nent. 

In  1792  I  proposed  to  the  American  Philosophical  Soci- 
ety that  we  should  set  on  foot  a  subscription  to  engage  some 
(/.  .17)  competent  person  to  explore  that  region  in  the  oppo- 
site direction-that  is,  by  ascending  the  Missouri,  crossing 
the  Stony  [Rocky]  mountains,  and  descending  the  nearest 
river  to  the  Pacific.  Captain  Lewis  being  then  stationed  at 
LiKirlottesville.  on  the  recruiting  service,  warmly  solicited 
me  to  obtain  for  him   the   execution  of  that   object.     I  told 


r^.'^^^Ji/F' 


*     .j»».  * *>» 


tlM.l,ajmm    -.-^ 


' 


XX 


MEMOIR  OF   MERIVVETHKR   LEWIS. 


him  it  was  proposed  that  the  "?rson  engaged  should  be 
attended  by  a  single  companion  only,  to  avoid  exciting 
alarm  among  the  Indians.  This  did  not  deter  him  ;  but  Mr. 
Andrti  Michaux,  a  professed  botanist,  author  of  "Flora 
Boreali-Americana "  and  of  the  "  Histoire  des  Chesnes 
d'Amcrique,"  offering  his  services,  they  were  accepted.  He 
received  his  instruction,  and  when  he  had  reached  Kentucky 
in  the  prosecution  of  his  journey,  he  was  overtaken  by  an 
order  from  the  Minister  of  France,  then  at  Philadelphia,  to 
relinquish  the  Expedition,'  and  to  pursue  elsewhere  the 
botanical  inquiries  on  which  he  was  employed  by  that  gov- 
ernment ;  and  thus  failed  the  second  attempt  for  exploring 
that  region. 

In  1803,  the  act  for  establishing  trading-houses  with  the 
Indian  tribes  being  about  to  expire,  some  modifications  of  it 
were  recommended  to  Congress  by  a  confidential  message  *  of 

'  I  believe  that  Michaux  s  caac  is  here  presented  with  the  reserve  of  the  true 
diplomatist.  It  is  a  matter  of  common  tradition,  if  not  of  verifiable  history, 
that  the  already  celebrated  French  botanist,  who  had  been  selected  by  the  Presi- 
dent to  accompany  the  Expedition  in  the  capacity  of  a  scientific  specialist,  was 
discovered  or  at  any  rate  suspected  to  be  a  spy  in  the  secret  service  of  the  French 
Government  ;  and  that  his  services  were  therefore  declined  by  Mr.  Jefferson 
himself,  who  probably  had  no  trouble  in  securing  his  recall  by  an  "  order"  from 
the  French  Minister.  Hut  hfiwevtr  this  may  have  been,  certainly  the  most  seri- 
ous  defect  in  the  organization  of  the  Expedition  was  the  lack  of  some  trained 
scientist,  who  should  also  have  been  a  medical  man,  and  thus  united  the  pro- 
fessional functions  of  physician,  surgeon,  and  naturalist. 

*  This  is  an  occult  document,  not  easy  to  find  in  print.  It  is  not  included  in 
The  Writings  of  Thomas  Jefferson,  nor  in  ordinary  collections  of  State  Papers. 
It  is  contained  in  The  Addresses  and  Messages  of  the  Presidents  of  the  United 
States,  Inaugural,  Annual,  and  Special,  from  1789  to  1846,  etc.,  2d  ed.,  2 
vols.,  8vo,  New  York,  Edward  Walker,  1846,  Appendix,  pp.  xxv-xxvii,  entitled 
"  Jefferson's  Confidential  Message,  recommending  a  Western  Exploring  Expedi- 
tion," Jan.  i8th,  1803.  It  is  addressed  "  Clentlemen  of  the  .Senate  and  House  of 
Representatives."  Its  astuteness  and  wariness  may  be  judged  by  the  words  with 
which  it  concludes  :  "  The  interests  of  commerce  place  the  ]irincipal  object 
within  the  constitutional  powers  rind  care  of  Congress,  and  that  it  should  incident- 
ally advance  the  gcograjihical  knowledge  of  our  own  continent,  can  but  be  an 
additional  gratification.  The  nation  claiming  the  territory,  regarding  this  as  a 
literary  pursuit,  which  it  is  in  the  habit  of  permitting  within  its  own  dominions, 
would  not  be  disposed  to  view  it  with  jealousy,  even  if  the  expiring  state  of  its 
interests  there  did  not  render  it  a  matter  of  indifference,     The  appropriation  of 


MEMOIR  OF   MERIWETHER  LEWIS. 


»aci 


should  be 
1  exciting 
1  ;  but  Mr. 
)f  "Flora 
;  Chesnes 
pted.  He 
Kentucky 
■:en  by  an 
lelphia,  to 
where  the 
that  gov- 
exploring 

5  with  the 
itions  of  it 
lessage  *  of 

e  of  the  true 
iable  history, 
by  the  Presi- 
pecialist,  was 
ji  the  French 
Ur.  Jefferson 
'  order"  from 
he  most  serf- 
some  trained 
ited  the  pro- 

Jt  included  in 
State  Papers. 
)f  the  United 
c,  2d  ed.,  2 
(xvii,  entitled 
)ring  Expedi- 
and  House  of 
le  words  w  ith 
ncipal  object 
luld  incident- 
an  but  be  an 
ing  this  as  a 
'n  dominions, 
ig  state  of  its 
iropriation  of 


January  i8th,  and  an  extension  of  its  views  to  the  Indians 
on  the  Missouri.  In  order  to  prepare  the  way,  the  message 
proposed  the  sending  an  exploring  party  to  trace  the  Mis- 
souri to  its  source,  to  cross  the  Highlands,  and  follow  the 
best  water-communication  which  offered  itself  from  thence  to 
the  Pacific  ocean.  Congress  approved  the  proposition,  and 
voted  a  sum  of  money  for  carrying  it  into  execution.  Cap- 
tain Lewis,  who  had  then  been  near  two  years  with  me  as 
Private  Secretary,'  immediately  renewed  his  solicitations  to 
have  the  direction  of  the  party.  I  had  now  had  opportuni- 
ties  of  knowing  him  intimately.  Of  courage  undaunted  ; 
possessing  a  firmness  and  perseverance  of  purpose  which 
nothing  but  impossibilities  could  divert  from  its  direction  ; 
careful  iis  a  father  of  those  committed  to  his  charge,  yet 
steady  in  the  maintenance  of  order  and  discipline  ;  intimate 
(/.  xii)  with  the  Indian  character,  customs,  and  principles  ; 

two  thousand  five  hundred  dollars,  '  for  the  purpose  of  extending  the  external 
commerce  of  the  United  States,"  while  understood  and  considered  by  the  execu- 
tive as  giving  the  legislative  sanction,  would  cover  the  undertaking  from  notice, 
and  prevent  the  obstructions  which  interested  indiviiluals  might  otherwise  prel 
viously  prepare  in  its  way."  This  message,  perhaps  penned  by  Private  Secretary 
Lewis  from  President  Jefferson's  dictation,  was  favorably  acted  upon  by  Con- 
gress, with  the  result  of  placing  the  Expedition  in  the  field.  The  estimate  of 
$2,5cx)  was  Lewis'  own,  as  witness  Doc.  No.  96a,  Jeff.  Papers  L,  2d  ser..  Vol. 
51,  lieing  tlie  following  "  Recapitulation  of  an  Estimate  of  the  sum  necessary  to 
carry  into  effect  the  -Miss'*-  Expedicion,"  in  Lewis'  handwriting  :  "  Mathematical 
Instruments,  $217  ;  Arms  and  Accoutrements  extraordinary,  $81  ;  Camp  Ecfpii- 
I'age,  $255  ;  Medicine  &  packing,  $55  ;  Means  of  transportation,  S430  ;  Indian 
prc-ents,  $696  ;  Provisions  extr.iordinary,  $224  ;  Materials  for  making  u],  the 
various  articles  into  portable  packs,  S55  ;  For  the  pay  of  hunters,  guides,  and 
iMRrpreters,  $300  ;  In  silver  coin,  to  defray  the  expences  of  the  party  from 
Nashville  to  the  last  white  settlement  on  the  Missisourie,  $100  ;  Contingencies 
SS7  ;  Total,  $2,500." 

'  State  Dept.,  Hur.  of  Rolls  and  Libr.,  Jeff.  Papers  L,  2d.  ser..  Vol.  51,  Doc. 
No.  no,  is  a  press-copy  of  the  President's  tender  of  the  Private  Secretaryship 
>n  highly  complimentar)-  terms,  dated  Washn.,  Feb.  23d,  1801.  Accejitance  of 
same,  in  Lewis'  handwriting,  iih/..  Doc.  No.  95,  is  in  part  as  follows  : 

]3j.„  Sir  Pittsburgh,  March  loth.  1801, 

Not  untiU  two  late  on  friday  last  to  answer  by  that  davs  mail,  did  I  recieve 
your  much  esteemed  favour  of  the  23rd.  Ult.     in  it  you  have  thought  proper  so 


n ' 


XXII 


MEMOIR   OF    MEKIWLIHKR   LEWIS. 


habituated  to  the  hunting  life ;  guarded,  by  exact  observa- 
tion of  the  vegetables  and  animals  of  his  own  country, 
against  losing  time  in  the  description  of  objects  already  pos- 
sessed ;  honest,  disinterested,  liberal,  of  sound  understand- 
ing, and  a  fidelity  to  truth  so  scrupulous  that  whatever  he 
should  report  would  be  as  certain  as  if  seen  by  ourselves — 
with  all  these  qualifications,  as  if  selected  and  implanted  by 
nature  in  one  body  for  this  express  purpose,  I  could  have 
no  hesitation  in  confiding  the  enterprise  to  him."  To  fill  up 
the  measure  desired,  he  wanted  nothing  but  a  greater  famili- 
arity with  the  technical  language  of  the  natural  sciences,  and 
readiness  in  the  astronomical  observations  necessary  for  the 
geography  of  his  route.  To  acquire  these  he  repaired  im- 
mediately to  Philadelphia,  and  placed  himself  under  the 
tutorage  of  the  distinguished  professors  of  that  place,  who, 
with  a  zeal  and  emulation  enkindled  by  an  ardent  devotion 
to  science,  communicated  to  him  freely  the  information 
requisite  for  the  purposes  of  the  journey.  While  attending 
at  Lancaster  to  the  fabrication  of  the  arms  with  which  he 
chose  that  his  men  should  be  provided,  he  had  the  benefit 
of  daily  communication  with  Mr.  Andrew  Ellicot,  whose 
experience  in  astronomical  observation,  and  practice  of  it  in 
the  woods,  enabled   him  to  apprise   Captain  Lewis  of  the 

far  to  honour  nic  with  your  confidence,  as  to  express  a  wish  that  I  should 
accept  the  place  of  )'our  private  Secretary  ;  I  most  cordially  ac(|uiesce,  and  with 
pleasure  accept  the  oft'ice  ;  nor  were  further  motives  necessary  to  induce  my  com- 
plyance,  than  that  you,  Sir,  should  conceive  that  in  the  discharge  of  the  duties 
of  that  office,  I  could  be  servicable  to  my  country,  or  ucefull  to  youreself  :  per- 
mit me  here,  Sir.  to  do  further  justice  to  my  feelings,  by  expressing  the  lively 
sensibility  with  which  I  received  this  mark  of  your  confidence  and  esteem.  .  .  . 
Receive  I  pray  you.  Sir,  the  most  undisembled  assurance,  of  the  attatch- 
ment  and  friendship  of 

Your  most  obedient, 

&  Very  Humble  Servt, 

Meriwether  Lewis 
Thomas  Jefferson. 

President  of  the  I'.  States. 

*  The  substance  of  the  eulogy  of  this  sentence  forms  the  inscri])tion  on  the 
east  face  of  Lewis'  monument,  erected  by  the  Legislature  of  Tennessee  in  1848. 
See  p.  !x,  beyond. 


>(^>i^ifif^^<rf^^m*AWii~ 


1 


MKMOIR   OF    MERIWETHER    LEWIS. 


XXllI 


wants  and  difficulties  he  would  encounter,  and  of  the  substi- 
tutes and  resources  offered  by  a  woodland  and  uninhabited 
country. 

Deeming  it  necessary  he  should  have  some  person  with 
him  of  known  competence  to  the  direction  of  the  enterprise, 
in  the  event  of  accident  to  himself,  he  proposed  William 
Clark,  brother  of  General  George  Rogers  Clark,  who  was 
approved,  and,  with  that  view,  received  a  commission  of 
captain.  [On  this  point  see  Memoir  of  William  Clark, 
beyond.] 


In  April,  1803,  a  draught  of  his  instructions  was  sent  to 
Captain  Lewis,  and  on  the  20th  of  June,  they  were  signed 
in  the  following  form  : ' 

^  I'ress-cnpy  of  the  original  of  these  instructions,  in  Jefferson's  h.in.lwnting,  now 
forms  Doc.  No.  269  of  Vol.  9  of  ist  scr.  of  Jeff.  I'apers  in  Unr.  of  Rolls  and  I'ibr,, 
State  Dtpt.  The  writing  is  very  small  ;  the  impression  is  much  hhirred,  and 
scarcely  legible  in  all  pl.ices.  Signature  is  "  Th  :  Jefferson,  Pr.  US.  of  America" 
The  iloc,  occupies  4  folios.— Doc.  No.  305,  i/^i,/.,  2  folios,  is  letter  from  T.  f.  to 
M.  1...  Wash".  Nov.  if)th,  1803,  giving  further  instructions,  with  details  of  "then 
expected  transferor  Louisiana  to  the  U.S.— Doc.  No.  8,  Vol.  10  of  feff.  I'apers 
dated  Wash".  Jan,  22<l,  1804,  is  letter  of  T.  J.  to  M.  L.,  chiefly  occupied  with 
instnRtu)ns  and  suggestions  for  intercourse  with  Indians;  item,  dentilles  a 
Mr.  Evans  as  a  Welshman  "whose  original  object  I  believe  has  been  to  go  in 
search  of  the  Welsh  Indians  said  to  be  up  the  .Missouri":  see  note  ",  p.  159, 
beyond  ;  item,  incloses  a  transl.  of  the  journ.  of  an  agent  of  a  trading  comp'y  of 
St.  Louis  up  the  Mo.  R.;  item,  incloses  a  letter  from  the  Amer.  Philos.  Soc,  of 
I'hilada,,  conveying  to  M.  L.  diploma  of  membership  in  that  Society.— Doc  No 
I,  tM.,  is  letter  of  T.  J,  to  M.  I„.  Wash".  Jan.  13th,  1804,  inclosing  a  map  of 
the  Mo.  R.  to  the  M.andans,  "said  to  be  very  accur.ate,"  having  been  d.me  by  a 
Mr.  Evans,  by  order  of  the  Spanish  f.ovt.  This  letter  concludes  as  follows  •  ' '  The 
acquisition  of  the  country  through  which  you  are  to  pass  has  insj-ired  the  coun- 
try generally  with  a  great  deal  of  interest  in  your  enterprise.  The  in(piiries  are 
perpetual  as  to  your  progress.  The  Feds.  [i.  ,•.,  Federalists]  alone  >till  treat  it 
as  a  [.hilosophism  [/.  ,.,  as  we  should  now  say,  crankery],  and  would  rejoice  at 
Its  f.idure.  Their  bitterness  incrc.iscs  with  the  diminution  of  their  nund)ers  and 
despair  of  a  resurrection.  1  ho|,e  you  will  t.ake  care  of  vourself,  and  be  the  liv- 
ing witness  of  their  malice  and  folly.  Present  my  salutations  to  Mr  Clarke 
assure  all  your  |iarty  that  we  have  our  eyes  turned  o„  tl,ein  with  anxiety  for  their 
safety  &  the  success  of  their  enterpri/e.  accept  yourself  assurances  of  sincere 
esteem  and  attachment."  Various  other  letters  of  'l".  J.  lo  .\I  L  are  also  pre- 
served in  press-copies  in  Jeff.  Papers  L,  2d  ser.,  Vol.  51  ;  as  ,'  V     Doc    No   III 


i^B"^ 


XXIV 


MEMOIR  OF    MEKIVVETHLK   LKWIS. 


(/.  xiii)  "To  Meriwether  Lewis,  Esquire,  Captain  of 
the  First  Regiment  of  Infantry  of  the  United  States  of 
America  : 

"  Your  situation  as  Secretary  of  tiie  President  of  the 
United  States  has  made  you  acquainted  with  the  objects 
of  my  confidential  message  of  January  iSth,  1803,  to  the 
legislature ;  you  have  seen  the  act  they  passed,  which, 
though  expressed  in  general  terms,  was  meant  to  sanction 
those  objects,  and  you  are  appointed  to  carry  them  into 
execution. 

"Instruments  for  ascertaining,  by  celestial  observations, 
the  geography  of  the  country  through  which  you  will  pass, 

Apr.  27th,  1803  ;  No.  112,  Apr.  30th,  1803  ;  No.  113,  May  l6th,  1603  ;  No.  114, 
July  utii,  1S03  ;  No.  115,  July  I5lh,  1803  ;  No.  lifi,  A;)r.  23<1,  1S03.  Tlicse  are 
Jefferson's  side  of  the  continued  correspondence  witli  i^evvis  during  that  year  and 
the  beginning  of  1804.  Tiie  originals  of  Lewis'  side  of  this  correspondence  are 
also  on  file,  bound  in  the  same  volume.  These  have  never  been  puldished  ;  and 
as  they  enable  us  to  trace  all  his  movements  in  preiiaring  for  the  Kxpedition,  in 
1803-4,  I  will  abstract  them,  as  follows  ;  Doc.  No.  97,  five  pages,  l^ancaster, 
I'a.,  Apr.  20th,  1803.  M.  L.  arrives  there  Apr.  19th,  and  puts  himself  under  in- 
structions of  Mr.  Andrew  Ellicot  to  learn  to  work  astron.  insts. ;  steps  taken  to 
en^^age  recruits  from  posts  of  Southwest  Point,  Massac,  Kaskaskais  (>/()  and 
lUincjis  ;  one  John  Conner  engaged  as  interpreter  (engagement  later  canceled)  ; 
rifles  and  tomahawks  being  made  at  Harper's  Ferry,  where  I,ewis  was  long 
detained  about  the  building  of  his  boat  "  Experiment"  (see  p.  406,  beyond). — 
Doc.  No.  98,  I'hilada.,  I'a.,  May  14th,  1803;  various  maUers,  but  chiefly  Mr.  Elli- 
cot's  and  Mr.  Patterson's  views  regarding  astron.  insts. — Doc.  No.  99,  Philada., 
May  29th  ;  preparations  so  far  forward  that  he  expects  to  leave  for  Washn.  June 
29th  ;  has  submitted  JefTerson's  instructions  to  Drs.  Rush,  Harton,  and  Wistar, 
who  approve  them  ;  is  informed  by  Major  McRca,com'd'g  at  S.  \V.  Point  that  out 
of  20  volunteers  for  the  F.xped.  only  3  |)ossessed  the  re(iuisite  i|ualilications  ;  has 
taken  sketches  from  Vancouver's  work  for  composing  a  map  Mr.  Oallatin  prom- 
ised to  project  and  complete  ;  has  been  unable  to  procure  "  Danvill's,"  i.  e., 
D'Anville's,  map  ;  and  "  the  maps  attached  to  Vancouver's  Voyage  cannot  be  pro- 
cured seperately  from  that  work,  which  is  both  too  costly  and  too  weighty  for  me 
either  to  jfurchase  or  carry." — Doc.  No.  109,  I'hilada.,  June  27th,  1S03  ;  wholly 
personal  matters.  Doc.  No.  108,  dated  12  o'clock  Harper's  Ferry,  July  8th, 
1803;  leaves  in  an  hour,  "  taking  the  rout  of  Charlestown,  Frankfort,  Uniontown 
and  Redstone  old  fort  to  Pittsburgh." — Doc.  No.  100,  Pittsburgh,  July  22d,  1803, 
delayed  there  by  non-completion  of  a  boat  which  had  been  promised  for  July  20th, 
was  now  promi.sed  for  Aug.  5ih  (but  in  fact  was  not  finished  till  Aug.  31st). — Doc. 
No.  loi,  Pittsburgh,  July  26th,  1803.     (5J^~'rhis  is  the  Lieut.  Hook  matter  :  see 


.■jjBGfK-- 


MEMOIR   OF   MKKIWKTirKK    LEWIS. 


XXV 


have  been  already  provided.  Light  articles  for  barter  and 
presents  among  the  Indians,  arms  for  your  attendants,  say 
for  from  ten  to  twelve  men,  boats,  tents,  and  other  travel- 
ing apparatus,  with  ammunition,  medicine,  surgical  instru- 
ments, and  provisions,  you  will  have  prepared,  with  such 
aids  as  the  Secretary  of  War  can  yield  in  his  department  ; 
and  from  him  also  you  will  receive  authority  to  engage 
among  our  troops,  by  voluntary  agreement,  tlie  number  of 
attendants  above  mentioned  ;  over  whom  you,  as  their  com- 
manding officer,  are  invested  with  all  the  powers  the  laws 
give  in  such  a  case. 

"As   your   movements,   while    within    the    limits  of   the 


in  full  in  my  Memoir  of  Clark,  beyond.) — Doc.  No.  102,  Wlieeliiii^,  Sipt.  8lh, 
1803,  in  ]iart  .IS  follows;  "  It  Wiis  not  until  7  D'Ciock  on  the  inorniiii;  of  the 
31st.  Ultni"'  that  my  boat  was  tonipleteil,  she  was  inst.;ntly  loailed,  and  at  10 
A.  M.  on  till;  same  day  I  left  I'lttsburgh,  where  I  had  been  moste  shamefully  de- 
tained by  the  unpardonabU:  negli^^ence  of  my  boat-builder  .  .  .  atcordiu};  to  Ills 
usual  (ustom  he  got  drunk,  ipiarreled  with  his  workmen,  .  .  I  spent  most  of 
my  time  with  the  workmen  altLrnately  presuading  and  threateninfj  ...  I  shall 
leave  this  place  tomorrow  morning,  and  lose  no  time  in  ^etinj;  on."  .  .  — Doc. 
No.  103,  dated  "On  board  my  boat  O[)posite  Marietta,"  Sept.  I3tli,  1803  ;  just 
arrived  there  ;  been  oblijjed  to  use  horses  or  oxen  to  draj;  his  boat  over  shoals  ; 
"  I  (ind  them  the  most  eltlcient  sailors  in  the  present  state  of  the  navii^atioii  of  the 
river,  altho'  ihey  may  be  considered  rather  clumsy." — Doc.  No.  104,  (.'incinnati, 
Oct.  3d,  1803  ;  chiefly  devoted  to  discovery  by  Dr.  \\m.  (Joforlh  of  bones  of 
"  mammoth  "  (mastodon),  found  at  I'ig  lione  I.ick  ;  item,  interpreter  Conner  has 
declined  ;  William  Clark  has  accepted  ;  item,  so  refreshing  in  its  n.aivete  that  I 
must  ([uote  it  :  "  As  this  Session  of  ('ongress  has  commenced  earlyer  than  usual, 
and  as  from  a  variety  of  incidental  circumstances  my  ])rogress  has  been  unex- 
pectedly delayed,  and  feeling  as  I  do  in  the  most  anxious  manner  a  wish  to  keep 
ihcni  in  a  good  humour  on  the  subject  of  the  cxncdicion  in  which  I  am  engaged," 
this  ingenuous  young  diplomat,  who  evidently  had  not  served  a  Jefferson  in  vain, 
])roposes  to  make  a  side-trip,  perhaps  up  the  Canceze  (Kansas)  river,  and  prevail 
on  Captain  Clark  to  make  a  feint  somewhere  else,  as  a  .sop  to  a  congressional 

Cerberus  thirsting  for  information  about  "  Jefferson's  Purchase." — Doe.  No.  , 

St.  Louis,  March  afith,  1804,  describes  Osage  plum  and  apple,  and  incloses  speci- 
mens.— Doc.  No.  105,  St.  I.ouis,  May  l8th,  1804  (when  the  i:x|ied.  had  started, 
b\it  Captain  I-.  had  not  joined  it),  is  a  list  of  articles  for'd  to  I'rest.  J<fferson  by 
Mr.  Peter  Chouteau,  not  in  the  handwriting  of  M.  L.  This  closes  the  cor- 
respondence, so  far  as  I  have  examined  it,  up  to  the  date  last  given  ;  the  next 
documents  on  fde  among  the  Jeff.  I'ajiers  are  the  advices  from  Fort  Mandan, 
Apr.  7th,  1805  ;  see  beycmd,  p.  xxxvi. 


XXVI 


MKMOIK  OF   MKRIWKTHEK   LEWIS. 


Unitctl  States,  will  bt-  better  tlircctcd  by  occasional  com- 
munications, adapted  to  circumstances  as  they  arise,  they 
will  not  be  noticed  here.  What  follows  will  respect 
your  proceeding's  after  your  departure  fron»  the  United 
States. 

"Your  mission  has  been  communicated  to  the  Ministers 
here  from  France,  Spain,  and  Great  liritain,  and  throu{:jh 
them  to  their  governments;  and  such  assurances  jjivcn  them 
as  to  its  objects,  as  we  trust  will  satisfy  them.  The  country 
of  I.tniisiana  h.ivinj;  been  ceded  by  Spain  to  France,  the 
passport  you  have  from  the  Minister  of  France,  the  rep- 
resentative of  the  present  sovereign  of  the  country,  will 
be  a  pri)lcction  with  all  its  subjects  ;  ami  that  from  the 
Minister  of  En^dand  will  entitle  you  to  the  friendly  aid  of 
any  traders  of  that  allegiance  with  whom  you  may  happen 
to  meet. 

{/>.  xi'v)  "The  object  of  your  mission  is  to  explore  the 
Missouri  river,  and  such  principal  streams  of  it,  as,  by  its 
course  and  communication  with  the  waters  of  the  Pacific 
ocean,  whether  the  Columbia,  Oregan  [.f/V],  Colorado,  or  any 
other  river,  may  offer  the  most  direct  and  practicable 
water-communication  across  the  continent,  for  the  purposes 
of  commerce. 

"  Beginning  at  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  you  will  take 
observations  of  latitude  and  longitude,  at  all  remarkable 
points  on  the  river,  and  especially  at  the  mouths  of  rivers, 
at  rapids,  at  islands,  and  other  places  and  objects  distin- 
guished by  such  natural  marks  and  characters,  of  a  durable 
kind,  as  that  they  may  with  certainty  be  recognized  here- 
after. The  courses  of  the  river  between  these  points  of 
observation  may  be  supplied  by  the  compass,  the  log-line, 
and  by  time,  corrected  by  the  observations  themselves. 
The  variations  of  tlie  needle,  too,  at  different  places,  should 
be  noticed. 

"  The  interesting  points  of  the  portage  between  the  heads 
of  the  Missouri,  and  of  the  water  offering  the  best  commu- 
nication   with    the   Pacific   ocean,   should  also  be   fixed  by 


MEMOIR  OF  MFRIWKTHKR   LEWIS. 


xxvi! 


I 


observation ;  and  the  course  of  that  water  to  the  ocean,  in 

the  same  m.inner  as  tliat  uf  the  Missouri. 

"  Your  observations  are  to  be  taken  with  {jreat  pains  and 
accuracy  ;  to  be  entered  distinctly  and  intelligibly  for  others 
as  well  as  yourself ;  to  comprehend  all  the  elements  neces- 
sary, with  the  aid  of  the  usual  tables,  to  fix  the  latitude 
and  lonfjitude  of  the  places  at  which  they  were  taken  ;  and 
are  to  be  rendered  tu  the  War  Office,  for  the  purpose  of 
having  the  calculations  made  concurrently  by  proper  per- 
sons  within  the  United  States.  Several  copies  of  these, 
as  well  as  of  your  other  notes,  should  be  made  at  leisure 
times,  and  put  into  the  care  of  the  most  trustworthy  of 
your  attend.uits  to  guard,  by  multiplying  them  against  the 
accidental  losses  to  which  they  will  be  exposed.  A  further 
guard  would  be,  that  one  of  these  copies  be  on  the  cuticular 
membranes  of  the  paper-birch  [Br/it/a  papyrifcra\  as  less 
liable  to  injury  from  damp  than  common  paper. 

i^p.xv)  "  The  commerce  which  may  be  carried  on  with  the 
people  inhabiting  the  line  you  will  pursue  renders  a  knowl- 
edge of  those  people  important.  You  will  therefore  en- 
deavor to  make  yourself  acquainted,  as  far  as  a  diligent 
pursuit  of  your  journey  shall  admit,  with  the  names  of  the 
natit)ns  and  their  numbers  : 

"  The  extent  and  limits  of  their  possessions  ; 

"  Their  relations  with  other  tribes  or  nations; 

"Their  language,  traditions,  and  monuments; 

"  Their  ordinary  occupations  in  agriculture,  fishing,  hunt- 
ing, war,  arts,  and  tiie  implements  for  these  ; 

"Their  food,  clothing,  and  domestic  accommodations  ; 

"  The  diseases  prevalent  among  them,  and  the  remedies 
they  use ; 

"  Moral  and  physical  circumstances  which  distinguish 
them  from  the  tribes  we  know  ; 

"  Peculiarities  in  their  laws,  customs,  and  dispositions  ; 

"  And  articles  of  commerce  they  may  need  or  furnish,  and 
to  what  extent. 

"  And,  considering  the  interest  which  every  nation  has  in 


XXVlll 


MEMOIR   OF    MERIWETHER   LEWIS. 


extending  and  strengthening  the  authority  of  reason  and 
justice  among  the  people  around  them,  it  will  be  useful  to 
acquire  what  knowledge  you  can  of  the  state  of  morality, 
religion,  and  information  among  them  ;  as  it  may  bettei'  en- 
able those  who  may  endeavor  to  civilize  and  instruct  them, 
to  adapt  their  measures  to  the  existing  notions  and  practices 
of  those  on  whom  they  are  to  operate. 

"Other  objects  worthy  of  notice  will  be  : 

"  The  soil  and  face  of  the  country  ;  its  growth  and  vege- 
table productions,  especially  those  not  of  the  United 
States ; 

"  The  animals  of  the  country  generally,  and  especially 
those  not  known  in  the  United  States ; 

"  The  remains  and  accounts  of  any  which  may  be  deemed 
rare  or  extinct  ; 

"The  mineral  productions  of  every  kind,  but  more 
particularly  metals,  limestone,  pit-coal,  saltpetre;  salines 
(/.  xvi)  and  mineral  waters,  noting  the  temperature  of  the 
last,  and  such  circumstances  as  may  indicate  their  character  ; 

"  Volcanic  appearances  ; 

"Climate,  as  characterized  by  the  thermometer,  by  the 
proportion  of  rainy,  cloudy,  and  clear  days  ;  by  lightning, 
hail,  snow,  ice;  by  the  access  and  recess  of  f  rost ;  by  the 
winds  prevailing  at  different  seasons;  the  dates  at  which 
particular  plants  put  forth  or  lose  their  flower  or  leaf; 
times  of  appearance  of  particular  birds,  reptiles,  or  insects.  ' 

I'  Although  your  route  will  be  along  the  channel  of  the 
Missouri,  yet  you  will  endeavor  to  inform  yourself,  by 
inquiry,  of  the  character  and  extent  of  the  country  watered 
by  its  branches,  and  especially  on  its  southern  side.  The 
North  river,  or  Rio  Ikavo  [Rio  Grande  del  Norte],  which 
runs  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  the  North  river,  or  Rio 
Colorado,  which  runs  into  tlie  Gulf  of  California,  are  under- 
stood to  be  the  principal  streams  heading  opposite  to  the 
waters  of  the  Missouri  and  running  southwardly.  Whether 
the  dividing  grounds  between  the  Missouri  and  them  are 
mountains  or  flat  lands,  what  are  their  distance  from  the 


^*w   -      ■  — ^>«*        —  .• 


MEMOIR   OF    MERIWETHER   LEWIS. 


XXIX 


Missouri,  the  character  of  the  intermediate  country,  and  the 
people  inhabiting  it,  are  worthy  of  particular  inquiry.  The 
northern  waters  of  the  Missouri  are  less  to  be  inquired  after, 
because  they  have  been  ascertained  to  a  considerable  degree, 
and  are  still  in  a  course  of  ascertainment  by  English  traders 
and  travelers  ;  but  if  you  can  learn  anything  certain  of  the 
most  northern  source  of  the  Missisipi  [sic],  and  of  its 
position  relatively  to  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  it  will  be 
interesting  to  us.  Some  account  too  of  the  path  of  the 
Canadian  traders  from  the  Missisipi  at  the  mouth  of  Ouis- 
consing  [Wisconsin  river]  to  where  it  strikes  the  Missouri, 
and  of  the  soil  and  rive'-s  in  its  course,  is  desirable. 

"  In  all  your  intercourse  with  the  natives,  treat  them  in 
the  most  friendly  and  conciliatory  manner  which  their  own 
conduct  will  admit ;  allay  all  jealousies  as  to  the  object  of 
your  journey  ;  satisfy  them  of  its  innocence  ;  make  them 
(/.  .vrii)  acquainted  with  the  position,  extent,  character, 
peaceable  and  commercial  dispositions  of  the  United  States; 
of  our  wish  to  be  neighborly,  friendly,  and  useful  to  them, 
and  of  our  dispositions  to  a  commercial  intercourse  with 
them  ;  confer  with  them  on  the  points  most  convenient  as 
mutual  emporiums,  and  the  articles  of  most  desirable  inter- 
change for  them  k1  us.  If  a  few  of  their  influential  chiefs, 
within  practicable  distance,  wish  to  visit  us,  arrange  such  a 
visit  with  them,  and  furnish  them  with  authority  to  call  on 
our  officers  on  their  entering  the  United  States,  to  have  them 
conveyed  to  this  place  at  the  public  expense.  If  any  of 
them  should  wish  to  have  some  of  their  people  brought  up 
with  us,  and  taught  such  arts  as  may  be  useful  to  them,  we 
will  receive,  instruct,  and  take  care  of  them.  Such  a  .nission, 
whether  of  influential  chiefs,  or  of  young  people,  would  give 
some  security  to  your  own  party.  Carry  with  you  some 
matter  of  the  kine-pox  ;  inform  those  of  them  with  whom 
you  may  be  of  its  efficacy  as  a  preservative  from  the  small- 
pox, and  instruct  and  encourage  them  in  the  use  of  it.  This 
may  be  especially  done  wherever  you  winter. 

"  As  it  is  impossible  for  us  to  foresee  in  what  manner  you 


XXX 


MEMOIR   OF   MKKIWETHER  LEWIS. 


will  be  received  by  those  people,  whether  with  hospitality 
or  hostility,  so  is  it  impossible  to  prescribe  the  exact  degree 
of  perseverance  with  which  you  are  to  pursue  your  journey. 
We  value  too  much  the  lives  of  citizens  to  offer  them  to 
probable  destruction.  Your  numbers  will  be  sufficient  to 
secure  you  against  the  unauthorized  opposition  of  individ- 
uals, or  of  small  parties  ;  but  if  a  superior  force,  authorized 
or  not  authorized  by  a  nation,  should  be  arrayed  against 
your  further  passage,  and  inflexibly  determined  to  arrest  it, 
you  must  derline  its  further  pursuit  and  return.  In  the 
loss  of  yourselves  we  should  lose  also  the  information  you 
will  have  acquired.  By  returning  safely  with  that,  you  may 
enable  us  to  renew  the  essay  with  better  calculated  means. 
To  your  own  discretion,  therefore,  must  be  left  the  degree 
of  danger  you  may  risk,  and  the  point  at  which  you  should 
decline;  {p.  xviii)  only  saying,  we  wish  you  to  err  on  the 
side  of  your  safety,  and  to  bring  back  your  party  safe,  even 
if  it  be  with  less  information. 

"  As  far  up  the  Missouri  as  the  white  settlements  extend, 
an  intercourse  will  probably  be  found  to  exist  between  them 
and  the  Spanish  posts  of  St.  Louis  opposite  Cahokia,"  or 
St.  Genevieve  opposite  Kaskaskia."  From  still  further  up 
the  river  the  traders  may  furnish  a  conveyance  for  letters. 
Beyond  that  you  may  perhaps  be  able  to  engage  Indians  to 

''  The  Cahokia  was  a  tribe  of  Indians  of  tlic  Illinois  confederation,  who  occupied 
a  village  about  the  mouth  of  Cahokia  creek,  St.  Clair  Co.,  111.,  and  are  supposed 
to  have  become  extinct  about  1800.  The  name  survived  as  that  of  a  village  on 
the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  four  or  live  miles  l)elow  St.  I.ouis. 

'  The  river  of  this  name  runs  S.  \V.  in  Illinois  and  falls  into  the  E.  side  of  the 
Mississippi  at  Chester,  Randolph  Co.,  111.  The  old  French  town  of  St.  tiene- 
vieve  was  on  a  creek  called  Gabarec,  near  the  AV.  bank  of  the  Mississi|ipi,  a  little 
liigher  up  ;  it  is  now  the  principal  town  of  the  county  of  the  same  n.amc  in  Mis- 
souri. The  Kaskaskia  was  named  from  an  Indian  tribe,  and  was  also  called 
Ocoa.  At  its  nouth  was  st.irted  the  town  of  Tiirtland  before  iSli),  to  rival  the 
old  town  of  Kaskaskia.  There  commences  the  celebrated  valley  along  the  Mis- 
sissippi which  became  known  as  the  "  American  bottom,"  extending  along  the 
E.  bank  to  the  I'i.asa  Mills,  four  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  This 
tract  contained  the  villages  of  K.iskaskia,  I'rairie  dcs  Roches,  Cahokia,  I'rairie  du 
Tout,  Ilarrisonville,  and  Fort  Chartres.  The  latter,  originally  built  too  close  to 
the  river,  was  undermined  in  iSoS.       It  stood  about  20  miles  above  Kaskaskia. 


\ 


or 


:9 


MEMOIR   OF   MKKIVVKTHER   LEWIS.  xxxi 

bring  letters  for  the  government  to  Cahokia,  or  Kaskaskia 
on  promising  that  they  shall  there  receive  such  special  com- 
pensation as  you  shall  have  stipulated  with  them.  Avail 
yourself  of  these  means  to  communicate  to  us,  at  seasonable 
intervals,  a  copy  of  your  journal,  notes,  and  observations  of 
every  kmd,  putting  into  cipher'"  whatever  might  do  injury 
if  betrayed. 

"  Should  you  reach  the  Pacific  ocean,  inform  yourself  of 
the  circumstances  which  may  decide  whether  the  furs  of 
those  parts  may  not  be  collected  as  advantageously  at  the 
head  of  the  Missouri  (convenient  as  is  supposed  to  the 
waters  of  the  Colorado  and  Oregan,  or  Columbia),  as  at 
Nootka  Sound,  or  any  other  point  of  that  coast;  and  that 
trade  be  consequently  conducted  through  the  Missouri  and 
United  States  more  beneficially  than  by  the  circumnaviga- 
tion  now  practiced. 

"  On  your  arrival  on  that  coast,  endeavor  to  learn  if  there 
be  any  port  within  your  reach  frequented  by  the  sea  vessels 
of  any  nation,  and  to  send  two  of  your  trusty  people  back 
by  sea.  .n  such  way  as  shall  appear  practicable,  with  a  copy 
o  your  notes  ;  and  should  you  be  of  opinion  that  the  return 
of  your  party  by  the  way  they  went  will  be  imminentlv 
dangerous,  then  ship  the  whole,  and  return  by  sea,  by  the 
way  e.tlicr  of  Cape  Horn,  or  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  as  you 
shall  be  able.  As  you  will  be  without  money,  clothes  or 
provisions,  you  must  endeavor  to  use  the  credit  of  'the 
United  States  to  obtain  them  ;  for  which  purpose  open 
letters  (A  .n.r)  of  credit  "  shall  be  furnished  you,  authorizing 
you  to  draw  on  the  Executive  of  the  United  States,  or  any 
of  Its  officers,   in  any   part  of   the  world,  in  which  draughts 

-I-he  con.truction  „f  tl,c  ci,,l>.r  for  communication  bcueen  Presi.ient  Jcffer- 
son  a,ul  Captain  Lews  ,s  ,lis,.layed  on  a  doc.  now  boun.l  between  Docs.  Nos  07 


lowin 


Ik'  is  this  open  letter  of  cre.lit,  probably  the  most  remark.-ible 


hy  any  indiviilual.      It  has  1 


it  from    the 


hand 


icen  ])riiited,  but  never 


ever  held 


writintj:  this  is  ahalf-sheet 


■press  copy  of    tlie   original    doci 


once  correctly.     I  publish 
iment.    in    lefferson'^ 


Doc.  N 


o,  1)4,  Je(T.  Taper,,  1st  scr.,  \ 


)r  one  folio,  written  one  side,  of  letter- 


Iiand- 
paper,  beinp; 


9,  lUiicau  of  Rolls  and  Library,  S 


tate 


XXXll 


MEMOIR   OF   MERIWETHER   LEWIS. 


can  be  disposed  of,  and  to  apply  with  our  recommendations 
to  the  consuls,  agents,  merchants,  or  citizens  of  any  nation 
with  which  we  have  intercourse,  assuring  them  in  our  name 
that  any  aids  they  may  furnish  you  shall  be  honorably 
repaid,  and  on  demand.  Our  consuls,  Thomas  Hewes,  at 
Hatavia  in  Java,  William  Buchanan  in  the  Isles  of  France 
and  Bourbon,  and  John  Elmslie  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
will  be  able  to  supply  your  necessities  by  draughts  on  us. 
"  Should  you  find  it  safe  to  return  by  the  way  you  go,  after 
sending  two  of  your  party  round  by  sea,  or  with  your  whole 
party,  if  no  conveyance  by  sea  can  be  found,  du  ^o  ;  making 
such  observations  on  your  return  as  may  serve  to  supply 

I>ept.     It  is  accompcinied,  ifiij.,  by  ihe  first  rough  draft,  in  Jefferson's  hand,  full 
of  interlineations  and  erasures.     Captain  Lewis  received  the  following  final  text  : 

Washington.   US.  of  America.  July  4.   1803. 
Dear  Sir 

In  the  journey  which  you  are  about  to  undertake  for  the  discovery  of  the  course 
and  source  of  the  Missouri,  and  of  the  most  convenient  water  comnuinication  from 
tlience  to  tlie  Pacific  ocean,  your  party  being  small,  it  is  to  be  expected  tliat  you 
will  encounter  consideral)le  dangers  from  the  Indian  inhabitants,  should  you 
escape  those  dangers,  and  re.ich  the  Pacific  ocean,  you  may  find  it  imprudent  to 
hazard  a  return  the  same  way,  and  be  forced  to  seek  a  passage  round  by  sea,  in 
such  vessels  as  you  may  tind  on  the  Western  coast,  but  you  will  be  without 
money,  without  clothes,  i.\:  other  necessaries  ;  as  a  sufficient  supply  cannot  be 
carried  with  you  from  hence,  your  resource  in  that  case  can  only  be  the  credit 
of  the  US.  for  which  purpose  I  hereby  authorise  you  to  draw  on  the  Secretaries 
of  St.ate,  of  the  Treasury,  of  War  &  of  the  Xavy  of  the  US.  according  as  you  may 
find  your  draughts  will  be  most  negociable,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  money 
or  necessaries  for  yourself  &  your  men  ;  and  I  solemnly  pledge  the  faith  of  the 
United  States  that  these  draughts  shall  be  paid  punctually  at  the  date  they  are 
made  payable.  I  also  .isk  of  the  Consuls,  agents,  merchants  <v:  citizens  of  any 
nation  with  which  we  have  intercimrse  or  amity,  to  furni'-b  you  with  those  sup- 
plies which  your  necessities  ni.ay  c.ill  for,  assuring  them  of  honor.ible  and  prompt 
retribution,  and  our  Consuls  in  foreign  parts  where  you  may  happen  to  be,  are 
hereby  instructed  &  required  to  be  aiding  and  assisting  to  you  in  whatever  may 
be  necessary  for  procuring  your  return  back  to  the  United  States.  And  to  give 
more  entire  satisfaction  &  conlidence  to  those  who  m.ay  be  disposed  to  aid  you, 
I  Thom.as  Jefferson,  President  of  the  United  States  of  America,  have  written 
this  letter  of  general  credit  for  you  witli  my  own  hand,  and  signed  it  with  my 
name.  Tii  ;  Jefferson 

To 

Capt.  Meriwether  Lewis. 


ME\fOIR   OF   MKRIWETHER    LEWIS.  xxxiii 

[/.  e.,   supplement  or  complete],  correct,  or  confirm  those 
made  on  your  outward  journey. 

"  On  re-entering  the  United  States  and  reaching  a  place 
of  safety,  discharge  any  of  your  attendants  who  may  desire 
and  deserve  it,  procuring  for  them  immediate  payment  of  all 
arrears  of  pay  and  clothing  which  may  have  [been]  incurred 
smce  their  departure,  and  assure  them  that  they  shall  be 
recommended  to  the  liberality  of  the  legislature  for  the  grant 
of  a  soldier's  portion  of  land  each,  as  proposed  in  my  mes- 
sage to  Congress,  and  repair  yourself,  with  your  papers,  to 
the  seat  of  government. 

"To    provide,  on    the    accident    of    your  death,  against 
anarchy,   dispersion,    and    the   consequent   danger   to   your 
party,  and   total   failure  of   the  enterprise,  you   are  hereby 
authorized,  by  any  instrument  signed  and  written  in  your 
own  hand,  to  name  the   person  among  them  who  shall  suc- 
ceed to  the  command  on  your  decease,  and  by  like  instru- 
ments to  change  the  nomination,  from  time  to  time,  as  fur- 
ther experience  of  the  characters  accompanying  you  shall 
pomt  out  superior  fitness  ;  and  all  the  powers  and  authorities 
given  to  yourself  are,  in  the  event  of  your  death,  transferred 
to  and  (/.  xx)  vested  in  the  successor  so  named,  with  fur- 
ther power  to   him   and  his  successors,  in   like  manner  to 
name  each  his  successor,  who,  on  the  death  of  his  predeces- 
sor, shall    be   invested  with   all   the  powers   and  authorities 
given  to  yourself. 

"  Given   under  my  hand  at  the  City  of  Washington,  this 
twentieth  day  of  June,  1S03. 

"Thomas  Jkffkrsox, 
"  President  of  the  United  States  of  A  nieriea." 

While  these  things  were   going  on   here,  the  country  of 
Louisiana,"  lately  ceded  by  Spain  to   France,  had  been'the 

'■'  "  Louisi.a„,i  •■  is  a  name  whose  widely  varying  geofrraphical  aiul  political  im- 
plications require  explanation  here.  At  the  time  this  History  opens  "  Loui- 
siana  'was  all  that  country  which  ha,l  been  ce<lc<l  l,y  Spain  to  France,  and  hy.he 
latter  to  the  Unite.l  States;  it  was  practically  then  the  Fnite.l  States  west 
<.f  the  Mississippi.     A  ma,,  of  the  period  just  before  the  cession  wo„M  show  ■ 


'.V    ...-v. 


•---'•:  .amjaiteL'i-.- 


XXXIV 


MEMOIR  OF   MERIWETIIKR   LEWIS. 


subject  of  negotiations  at  Paris  between  us  and  this  last 
power ;  and  liad  actually  been  transferred  to  us  by  treaties 
executed  at  Paris,  on  the  30th  of  April,  1803.  This  infor- 
mation, received  about  the  ist  day  of  July,  increased  infi- 
nitely the  interest  we  felt  in  the  Expedition,  and  lessened  the 
apprehensions  of  interruption  from  other  powers.  Every- 
thing in  this  quarter  being  now  prepared,  Captain  Lewis  left 
Washington  on  the  5th  day  of  July,  1803,  and  proceeded  to 


1 


i 


United  States,  east  of  tlie  Mississippi ;  IJritish  Possessions,  north  of  49°  and 
along  the  (Ireat  Lakes,  etc.;  Spanish  possessions,  on  tlie  soutliwest,  up  to  alioiit 
38'^  at  |)oint  o{  furthest  nortliward  extension  ;  the  rest  being  "  Louisiana." 
A  straight  line  from  the  -Straits  of  Kuca  on  the  Pacific  coast  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Mississippi  river  would  run  through  "  Louisiana"  from  northwest  to  southeast. 
Such  was  the  vast  area  accpiired  by  the  United  States  through  Jefferson's  mag- 
nificent stroke.     It  was  often  called  "Jefferson's  Purchase." 

The  treaty  ceding  this  country  by  France  to  the  United  States  was  executeil 
at  Paris,  April  30th,  1803,  by  Robert  K.  Livingstone  and  James  Monroe,  Minis- 
ters Plenipotentiary,  on  the  ])art  of  the  President  of  the  United  States,  and  liarbe 
Marbois,  Minister  of  the  Public  Treasury,  on  the  part  of  the  First  Consul  of 
France.  This  treaty  was  ratified  July  31st,  1803.  The  lower  part  of  Louisiana 
was  formally  transferred  by  Laussat,  Commissioner  of  !■" ranee,  to  Ceneral  James 
Wilkinson  and  Governor  Wni.  C.  C.  Claiborne,  at  New  Orleans,  Dec.  2olh,  1803 
(see  Jefferson's  Message  of  Jan.  l6th,  1804)  ;  the  upper  part  was  likewise  trans- 
ferred to  Captain  Amos  Stoddard,  at  St.  Louis,  Mar.  9th  or  loth,  1S04.  Captain 
Lewis,  while  waiting  for  the  advance  of  spring  to  enable  him  to  go  up  the  Mis- 
souri, was  present  at  the  latter  transfer.  His  name  is  saiil  to  be  artixeil  as  that  of 
one  of  the  witnesses  to  the  official  document  executed  by  the  Spanish  authorities 
and  Captain  Stoddard  ;  but  I  have  not  seen  it. 

An  Act  of  Congress  of  March  26th,  1 804,  diviiled  the  thus  acpiired  territory  of 
Louisiana  along  the  parallel  of  33'  N.  into  a  southern  part,  called  the  "  Oistrict 
of  New  Orleans,"  and  a  northern  part,  the  "  District  of  Louisiana."  The  latter 
District  was  then  temporarily  attached  to  the  already  existing  "  Territory  of 
Indiana,"  of  which  William  Henry  Harrison  was  at  the  time  Governor,  and  who 
thus  became  also  the  first  Governor  of  the  new  "  District  of  Louisiana."  His 
governorship  of  the  latter  began  at  St.  Louis,  Oct.  1st,  1804.  An  Act  of  Con- 
gress of  March  3d,  1805,  changed  the  name  "  District  of  Louisiana"  to 
"  Louisiana  Territory,"  to  be  governed  by  a  (iovernor  and  three  Judges.  This 
arrangement  took  effect  July  4tli,  1805,  when  General  James  Wilkinson  entered 
upon  his  gubernatorial  functions.  These  he  held  for  two  years,  when  Governor 
Lewis  was  appoint..il  to  the  oftice.  Mar.  3d,  1807,  and  entered  upon  his  functions 
in  July,  1807,  at  St.  Louis  ;  he  held  the  position  till  his  death,  Oct.  nth,  1809, 
and  was  succeeded  by  Governor  IJenjamin  Howard,  appointed  April  17th,  iSlo. 

How  "  Missouri  "  grew  out  of  "  Louisiana  "  may  also  be  here  noted,  as  Cap- 


,'1 


MEMOIR   OF    MERIWETHER   LEWIS. 


XXXV 


Pittsburg,  where  other  articles  had  been  ordered  to  be  pro- 
vided for  him.  The  men  too  were  to  be  selected  from  the 
military  stations  on  the  Ohio.  Delays  of  preparation,  diflfi- 
cultics  of  navigation  down  the  Ohio,  and  other  untoward 
obstructions  retarded  his  arrival  at  Cahokia  until  the  season 
was  so  far  advanced  as  to  render  it  prudent  to  suspend  his 
entering  the  Missouri  before  the  ice  could  break  up  in  the 
succeeding  spring. 


'^ 


i 


tain  (afterward  General)  Clark  became  Governor  of  that  Territory.  Originally 
"  Mihiouri  "  was  the  name  of  certain  Indians  and  their  river.  An  Act  of  Con- 
gress of  June  4th,  1812,  taking  effect  the  first  Monday  of  October,  1S12,  created 
Missouri  as  a  Territory  of  the  second  grade  :  "  The  Territory  heretofore  called 
'  Louisiana  '  shall  be  hereafter  called  '  Missouri.'  "  (This  was  the  former  "  Dis- 
trict of  Louisiana,"  as  separated  from  the  "  District  of  New  Orleans  " — both  these 
having  been  in  the  first  instance  "  Louisiana.")  A  proclamation  of  Governor  l!en- 
janiin  Howard,  of  Oct.  1st,  1812,  divided  the  new  Missouri  Territory  into  five 
counties — St.  Charles,  St.  Louis,  St.  Genevieve,  Cape  Girardeau,  and  New 
Madrid — the  same  that  had  before  been  the  five  "  districts  "  of  the  "  District  of 
Louisiana."  The  total  of  representation  in  the  General  Assembly  of  Ihe  new 
Territory  of  Missouri  was  13.  ( iovernor  Howard  was  succeeded  by  Gov- 
ernor Clark,  1813-1820.  The  hrst  delegate  to  Congress  from  Missouri  was 
Edward  Hempstead,  elected  Nov.,  1S12,  to  ser\'e  two  years  :  he  had  been  Attor- 
ney-! Jeneral  of  the  former  District  of  Louisiana,  under  a  commission  from  Gov- 
ernor Lewis,  presented  before  the  proper  court  May  29th,  1809.  .\t  the  date  of 
creation  of  Missouri  Territory.  James  Madison  was  President  of  the  Unitett 
States,  and  Henry  Clay  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Representatives.  Missouri 
was  authorized  to  ailopt  a  State  Constitution  by  an  Act  of  Congress  approved  by 
I'resident  Monroe,  .March  6th,  1820.  The  Legislature  met  for  this  purpose  at 
St.  Louis,  Sept.  18th,  1820,  and  Alexander  McNair  was  inaugurated  Governor  ; 
the  tirst  Senators  elected  were  David  liarton  and  Thos.  H.  Benton  ;  tlie  first 
Representative  was  John  Scott.  But  certain  objections  to  the  State  Constitution 
which  Missouri  had  adopted,  caused  Congress,  March  2d,  1 82 1,  to  require  amend- 
ments thereto  ;  which  being  made  by  the  Legislature  which  convened  at 
St.  Cliarles,  June  4th,  1821,  the  President's  proclamation  of  .\ug.  loth,  1821, 
admitted  Missouri  as  the  twenty-fourth  State  of  the  Union. 

Thus  it  appears  that  Captain  Lewis  became  Governor  of  "  Louisiana  Terri- 
tory "  (which  had  been  the  "  District  of  Louisiana"),  Mar.  3d,  1807-Oct.  iltli, 
1809,  succeeding  Governor  Wilkinson,  and  succeeded  by  Governor  Howard.  And 
General  Clark  became  Governor,  not  of  "  Louisiana  Territory  "  but  of  "  Missouri 
Territory,"  succeeding  Governor  Howard  (after  a  short  interregnum  of  an  acting 
Governor),  July  1st,  1S13,  and  holding  the  otiice  till  1820,  when,  declining  the 
dust  of  the  political  arena,  he  was  defeated  liy  the  election  of  Alexander  McNair. 
( ieiieral  Cl.irk  was  never  Ciovernor  of  Missouri  as  a  State. 


li 


■>v 


5SSSSS 


XXXVI 


MKMOIK   OF   MERIWETIIKR   LEWIS. 


From  this  time  liis  journal,  now  published,  will  give  the 
history  of  his  journey  to  and  from  the  Pacific  ocean,  until 
his  return  to  St.  Louis  on  the  23d  of  September,  1806." 
Never  did  a  similar  event  excite  more  joy  through  the 
United  States.  The  humblest  of  its  citizens  had  taken  a 
lively  interest  in  the  issue  of  this  journey,  and  looked  for- 
ward with  impatience  for  the  information  it  would  furnish. 
Their  anxieties  too  for  the  safety  of  the  corps  had  been 
kept  (/.  .v.ri)  in  a  state  of  excitement  by  lugubrious  rumors, 
circulated  from  time  to  time  on  uncertain  authorities,  and 
uncontradicted  by  letters  or  other  direct  information,  from 
the  time  they  had  left  the  Mandan  towns,  on  their  ascent  up 
the  river  in  April  [Apr.  7th  "]  of  the  preceding  year,  1805, 
until  their  actual  return  to  St.  Louis. 


"  As  stated  in  my  note  ■".  p.  283  nf  the  History,  we  have  the  ori(;in.il  dr.ift 
of  Lewis'  letter  of  Sept.  23(1,  iScy),  announcin(j  to  President  Jefferson  the 
return  of  the  Expedition  in  safety  to  St.  Louis.  We  also  have  tlie  original  draft 
of  the  President's  reply,  now  forming  Doc.  N'o.  Ity,  Jeff.  Papers  L,  2<1  ser..  Vol. 
51,  dated  "Washington  Oct.  20  1806."  It  begins  abruptly:  "I  received, 
my  dear  Sir,  with  unspeakable  joy  your  letter  of  Sep.  23  announcing  the  return 
of  yourself,  Capt  Clarke  iV  your  party  in  good  health  to  St.  Louis,  the  unknown 
scenes  in  which  you  were  engaged  \  the  length  of  time  without  hearing  of  you 
hail  begun  to  be  felt  awfully,"  etc.  The  joy  was  felt  nowhere  more  intensely 
and  sincerely  than  in  the  heart  of  the  most  exalted  citizen  of  the  United  States. 

'■■  Here  the  allusion  to  the  last  direct  information  Mr.  Jefferson  had  of  the 
Expedition  implies  the  celebrated  Mandan  letter  of  Captain  Lewis,  which  was 
one  of  the  .\ccompanying  Documents  of  Jefferson's  Mess.ige  to  Congress  of 
Feb.  19th,  1806,  Liter  taken  up  in  various  .Apocrypha  (see  Bibliogrr.phy,  beyond). 
Besides  having  its  date  misprinted  April  "  17th,"  instead  of  7th,  this  letter 
was  judiciously  jiruned  down  for  publication  by  Mr.  Jefferson  himself,  and 
consequently  has  never  beer,  luinted  in  full.  The  original  occujiies  six  pages  or 
three  folios  of  letter-pai)er  size,  in  Lewis'  usual  line  and  even  hand.  It  is  now 
Doc.  \o.  107  of  the  Jeff.  Papers,  2d  ser..  Vol.  51,  in  the  archives  of  the  St.ite 
Dept. .and  it  shows  the  pencilings  of  Mr.  Jefferson  for  deletion  of  certain 
passages  which  he  thought  be>;t  not  to  publish  at  that  time. 

Regarding  other  Mandan  matters  of  this  date,  if  the  reader  will  turn  to  note', 
p.  250  of  the  History,  he  will  find  mention  of  the  complete  invoice  of  articles 
which  were  sent  by  the  barge  to  President  Jefferson.  The  oris^iHaloi  this  invoice 
is  extant,  as  Doc.  No.  105a,  Jeff.  Papers  L,  2d.  ser.,  Vol.  51.  This  is  in 
(Captain  Clark's  hand  ;  it  is  headed  :  "  Invoice  of  articles  forw.ardeil  from  Fort 
Mandan  to  the  Presiilent  of  the  United  Slates  through  Capt"-  [.\mos]  Stoddard 
at  St.  Louis  and  M'-  H.  \^.  Trist  the  Collector  of  the  Port  of  New  Orleans." 


MEMOIR  OF    MKRIWK'^HKR   LEWIS. 


XXXVll 


I  (. 


hnte ' 


hides 
Bvoice 
I  is  in 
r..rt 
iMard 


It  was  the  middle"  of  February,  1807,  before  Captain 
Lewis,  with  his  companion,  Captain  Clark,  reached  the  City 
of  Washington,  where  Congress  was  then  in  session.  That 
body  granted  to  the  two  chiefs  and  their  followers  the  dona- 

"  lie  w-is  cert.iinly  in  Wasliington  by  the  nth,  as  witness  the  following; letter, 
aildressed  tci  Aiij;uste  Chouteau,  sen.  (!>.  New  Orleans,  Sept.  2f)th,  1750  ;  <I.  St. 
Louis,  Feb.  24th,  1829),  who  was  appointed  colonel  of  militia  by  (jovernor  Lewis 
in  1808.  I  cojiy  it  from  Billon's  Annals,  1888,  p.  384 — the  only  plate  where 
it  occurs  in  print,  to  my  knowledge. 

City  ok  Wasiiincton,  Feb.  11,  1807. 

Sir. — This  will  be  handed  to  you  by  a  particidar  friend  and  acipiaintance  of 
mine,  Mr.  Fleming  [cpi.  I'rederick?]  Hates,  late  Judge  of  the  Michigan  Territory 
and  Receiver  of  Public  Moneys  at  Deti,.''. 

Mr.  Hates  has  been  recently  appointed  the  Secretary  of  the  'I'erritory  of 
Louisiana  and  Recorder  of  the  Hoanl  of  Commissioners  for  adjusting  the  Land 
Claims  in  that  Territory,  and  is  about  to  est.ablish  himself  at  St.  Louis,  in  order 
to  take  on  him  the  discharge  of  the  <luties  incumbent  to  those  offices. 

The  situation  of  Mr.  Hates  as  a  jjublic  officer  sufficiently  shows  tlie  estimation 
in  which  he  is,  in  my  opinion,  deservedly  held  by  the  Executive  of  the  United 
.States,  and  conseiiuently  renders  any  further  observations  in  relation  to  his 
talents  or  integrity  unnecessary  on  my  part.  You  will  confer  an  obligation  on 
me  by  making  Mr.  Hates  ac(iuainted  with  the  respectable  inhabitant  of  St.  Louis 
and  its  vicinity  or  by  rendering  him  any  service  which  it  may  be  in  your  power 
to  give  him. 

The  ])apers  you  confided  to  my  care  have  been  laid  before  the  Executive,  but 
as  yet  I  have  received  no  answer  on  the  subject  ;  nor  do  I  believe  that  any 
definite  answer  will  be  given,  or  measures  taken  in  relation  to  the  land  claims  of 
Louisiana,  until  after  the  passage  of  a  law  on  that  subject  which  is  now  under 
the  consideration  of  Congress. 

I  shall  jjrobably  come  on  to  St.  Louis  in  the  course  of  the  next  fall,  for  the 
purpose  of  residing  among  you  ;  in  such  an  event  I  should  wish  timely  to  procure 
a  house  by  rent  or  otherwise  for  my  accommodation,  and  I  have  fixe<l  my  eye  on 
that  of  Mr.  Gratiot,  provided  we  can  come  on  terms  which  may  be  mutually 
agreeable.  I  would  prefer  renting  or  leasing  to  purchase  ;  in  either  case  the 
enclosure  of  the  garden  must  be  rendered  secure,  and  the  steps  and  floor  of  the 
piazza  repaired  by  the  ist  of  October  next.  I  woulil  thank  you  to  request  Mr. 
tiratiot  to  write  me  on  this  subject  and  to  state  his  terms  distinctly,  as  to  price, 
payment,  etc.,  in  order  that  I  may  know  whether  my  resource^  will  enable  me 
to  meet  these  or  not,  or  whether  it  will  become  necessary  that  I  should  make 
some  other  provision  for  my  accommodation. 

My  respectful  compliments  to  your  Lady,  Mad'e  I*.  Chouteau,  and  to  my 
friends  of  .St.  Louis  and  its  vicinity,  and  believe  me  your  sincere  friend  and 

Obed't   servant, 

Mon'r  Aug't  Ciioutkau.  Mkkiwktiikr   Lewis. 


XXXVIII 


MEMOIR   OK    MKKIWKTHKR    LEWIS. 


tion  of  lands  which  they  h.id  been  encourajjcd  to  expect  in 
reuanl  of  their  toil  and  dan^a-rs.'"  Captain  Lewis  was  soon 
after  [March  ^d  "]  appointed  Governor  of  Louisiana,  and 
Captain  Clark  [>L-xrch  i2th]  a  General  of  its  militia  and  A^ent 
of  the  United  States  for  Indian  affairs  in  that  department. 

A  considerable  time  intervened  before  the  Governor's 
arrival  at  St.  Louis.  He  found  the  territory  distracted  by 
feuds  and  contentions  among  the  officers  of  the  government, 
and  the  people  themselves  divided  by  these  into  factions 
and  parties.  He  determined  at  once  to  take  no  :.ide  with 
either,  but  to  use  every  endeavor  to  conciliate  and  har- 
monize them.  The  even-handed  justice  he  administered  to 
all  soon  established  a  respect  for  his  person  and  authority, 
and  perseverance  and  time  wore  down  animosities  and  re- 
united the  citizens  again  into  one  family." 

"On  this  matter  of  the  grant  of  lands  l)y  Act  of  Congress,  see  the  note  '. 
p.  cxi,  beyond,  in  the  Hibliogr.i|ihical  Introduction. 

"  Meanwhile  Captain  Lewis  had  resigned  from  the  .\rmy,  Mar.  2d,  1807.  See 
liis  letter  of  resignation,  in  facsimile  from  a  photograph  of  the  original  (now  on  file 
in  the  Record  l>ivision  of  the  War  Uept,),  among  the  jilates  which  illustrate  the 
present  work.  It  is  extraordinary  that  the  <late  of  Governor  Lewis'  apjiointment  is 
left  out  from  every  jilace  where  it  might  confidently  lie  expected  tuajipear  in  print, 
for  it  is  of  ofificial  record  in  the  Hureau  of  Commissions  of  the  St.ate  Department, 
being  of  almost  equal  date  with  his  resignation  from  the  .Vrmy.  Captain  Lewis 
was  nominated  as  Ciovernor  of  the  Louisiana  Territory,  by  President  Jefferson, 
Feb.  28th,  1S07,  confirmed  by  the  senate  Mar.  2d,  and  commissioned  Mar.  3d. 

'"  To  this  just  eulogium  of  Lewis  as  governor  may  be  added  a  few  details  I 
have  been  able  to  glean,  chielly  from  Hillon's  Annals  of  St.  Louis  for  1804-21, 
pub.  1888.  Governor  Lewis'  appointment  is  dated  Mar.  3d,  1807.  He  entered 
upon  his  duties  in  July  of  th.it  year,  at  St.  Louis,  to  be  performed  until  his  death, 
Oct.  nth,  l8o() — a  brief  period  of  office  in  vvhich  to  do  all  the  good  he  undoubt- 
edly effected.  One  of  his  important  acts  was  the  proclamation  establishing 
"  Arkansas,"  which  was  formed  of  a  part  of  the  inconveniently  large  District  of 
N'ew  Madrid.     His  successor,  lienjamin  Howard,  was  appointed  April  17th,  1810. 

We  find  that  on  Nov.  1st,  1807,  Silas  Hent,  Augusle  Chouteau,  Kernard 
I'ratte,  and  Louis  Labeaume  presented  their  commissions  from  .M.  Lewis,  the 
new  Governor,  and  took  their  stats  in  the  Court  of  Common  I'leas. 

Among  the  .\ctsof  the  Legislature  of  the  District  of  Louisiana,  consisting  then 
of  Meriwether  Lewis,  Governor,  anil  two  judges,  may  be  noted  one  of  June  l8th, 
1808,  "  concerning  Towns,"  and  one  of  June  20tli,  1808,  "  to  lay  out  a  road  from 
St.  Louis  to  St.  (ienevieve.  thence  to  Cape  Girardeau,  thence  to  New  Madrid." 

In  August,  180S,  Governor  Lewis  held  at  St.  Louis  a  Council  with  the  Sacs, 


1 


i 


MEMOIR  OK  mi;i<iwi:iiiI':r  i.kwis. 


\.\X1X 


by 


Governor  Lewis  had  from  early  life  been  subject  to  hypo- 
choiulriac  affections.  It  was  a  constitutional  disposition 
in  all  the  nearer  branches  of  the  family  of  his  name,  and 
was  more  immediately  inheritetl  by  him  from  his  father. 
They  had  not,  however,  been  so  strong  as  to  j^ive  uneasiness 
to  his  family.  While  he  lived  with  me  in  Washington  I 
observed  at  times  sensible  depressions  of  mind  ;  but,  know- 
ing their  ccMistitutional  source,  I  estimated  their  course  by 
what  I  had  seen  in  the  family.     During  his  Western  Expedi- 


;  then 
Il8th, 
from 
jrUl." 
I  Sacs, 


Foxes,  and  lowas  ;  a  tract  df  three  miles  s(|uare  was  ce(le<l  to  them,  and  in 
the  autumn  of  that  year  was  built  Fort  Madison,  the  tirst  fortification  estab- 
lished by  the  United  States  in  lliat  region.  At  tiie  same  lime  his  comrade 
(ieneral  (lark,  then  Indian  .Agent  for  Louisiana,  concluded  an  important  treaty 
with  the  Osages,  to  which  nation  he  was  escorted  by  a  troo])  of  cavalry 
under  Captain  M.  Wherry.  One  result  of  this  affair  was  the  establishment  of 
Fort  Osage,  for  which  see  notes  on  p.  30. 

The  militia  of  Louisiana  Territory  was  organized  in  1808  by  Governor  Lewis, 
who  appointed  Auguste  Chouteau,  Sen,,  to  be  Colonel  of  the  St.  Louis  Regi- 
ment. In  October  of  this  year  he  had  issued  general  orders  to  the  militia  to 
parade  according  to  law.  One  of  his  latest  proclamations  was  that  published 
in  July,  1809,  discharging  militia  which  had  been  held  under  his  requisition  of 
Nov.  28th,  1808,  to  be  again  enrolled  as  before  with  the  other  militia,  with  his 
thanks  for  their  promptness  in  volunteering. 

Among  the  Jeff.  Papers  on  file  in  the  liureau  of  Rolls  and  Libr.,  State  Dept., 
of  about  this  dale,  and  relating  to  Lewis  as  Cioverndr,  may  be  noted  :  Doc.  No. 
220,  in  Vol.  12  of  1st  scr.,  T.  J.  to  M.  L.,  dated  Monticello,  Aug.  8th,  1807, 
relating  to  the  militia,  etc.  —  Doc.  No.  529,  //'/i/.,  T.  J.  to  .M.  L.,  Washn.,  July 
17th,  1808,  chiefly  concerning  the  getting  of  the  Mandan  chief,  Hig  White,  back 
home  safe.  There  was  great  trouble  in  this  matter,  on  account  of  the  Sioux,  and 
it  assumed  a  very  grave  aspect.  This  letter  also  recommends  to  (lov.  Lewis  "  a 
Mr.  istor  of  N.  York  " — low  be  it  sjioUcn  at  the  present  day  ! — I  iocs.  No.  570  and 
'^o-  573.  '/'i'^.,  T.  J.  to  .M.  1..,  Monticello,  .Vug.  21st  and  .\ug.  24th,  1S08,  concern- 
ing Indian  Affairs. — Doc.  No.  7K,  Misc.  Jeff.  I'apers,  5th  ser..  Vol.  16,  is  perhaps 
the  last  letter  ever  received  byOovernor  Lewis  from  Mr.  Jefferson — if,  indeed,  it 
ever  reached  him.  It  is  dated  Mdnlicello.  .Vug  iMh,  1S09.  It  opens  by  recom- 
mending the  bearer  of  it,  Mr.  Mradbury,  the  subsequently  distinguished  English 
botanist.  It  includes  the  following  reference  ti>  the  History  of  the  Expedition  : 
"  I  am  very  often  applied  to  to  know  when  your  work  will  begin  to  appear  ;  and 
I  have  so  long  promised  co|iies  to  my  literary  correspondents  in  France,  that  I 
am  almost  bankrupt  in  their  eyes.  1  shall  be  very  happy  to  receive  from  your- 
self information  of  your  exjiectations  im  this  svibjccl,  everybody  is  impatient 
for  it." 

The  first  post-office  at  St.  Louis  was  establi'-hcd  early  in   1S08,  witli   Rufus 


i 


I 


99fe 


xl 


MKMOIK   OK    MKKIWKllIKU    I.KWIS. 


tloti,  the  constant  exertion  which  that  reiiuired  of  all  the 
faculties  (/.  x.iii)  of  boiiy  and  mind  suspended  these  dis- 
tressinj^  affections  ;  but  after  his  establishment  at  St.  Louis 
in  sedentary  occupations,  they  returned  to  him  with  re- 
doubled vi^or  and  began  seriously  to  alarm  his  frienils.  He 
was  in  a  paroxysm  of  one  of  these  when  his  affairs  reiulered 
it  necessary  for  him  to  go  to  Washington. "  He  proceeded 
to  the  Chickasaw  bluffs,'"  where  he  arrived  on  the  i^ili  of 
September,    i.Scx),  with  a  view  of   continuing   his   journey 


Kaston  as  postmaster.  Mails  were  then  iisii^illy  :il)i)iit  six  weeks  from  New 
S'ork,  I'hlladelpliia,  niul  Wasliiii^loii  ;  ami  the  only  miil  routes  west  of  Iniliaiia 
and  Kentucky  were  lo  ('alii)kia  ami  tlienec  to  St.  l.ouis  and  St.  (  liatles.  Dur- 
ing this  year  of  (iovernor  Lewis'  incumbency  the  first  book  ever  printed  in  St. 
l.ouis  was  published  in  OeccMnbcr.  It  was  a  volume  of  372  pages,  l)eing  the 
Laws  of  the  Territory  of  Louisiana,  compiled  by  I'rederii  k  Hates  and  printed 
liy  Joseph  Charless.  .\lready  had  the  first  newspaper  appeared,  July  latli,  iS".'^. 
This  was  the  Missouri  (ja/ctte,  foundeil  by  Mr.  (Iharless  ;  the  lirst  issue  «.is 
a  sheet  of  foolscap  8x  12  inches.  The  name  was  changed  Nov.  30th,  1809,  to 
Louisiana  fia/ette,  and  this  was  changed  back  to  the  original  name  July  i8th, 
1812  ("( 'ongress  having  changed  the  name  of  this  Territory,  the  iilor  also 
changed  his  paper  to  its  first  appellation  "  ).  Mr.  (Jharless  conducted  it  through 
twelve  vulumes  to  .Sept.  13th,  1810,  when  it  had  1,000  subscribers,  having 
started  with  170;  it  was  then  transferred  to  another  editor.  I'here  was  no 
opposition  i)aper  till  ^Lly,  1S15,  when  appeared  the  Western  Journal,  wiiich, 
in  1S17,  became  the  Western  Kmigrant,  and,  in  l8l<),  the  .St.  Louis  iMiipiirer, 
with  the  suliseipiently  famous  'Thom.as  H.  lienton  as  editor. 

"  It  ai)pears  from  liillon's  sketch  (.Vnnals  of  St.  Louis,  1888,  p.  378)  that  befure 
leaving  St.  Louis  on  his  last  journey,  (lOvernor  Lewis  had,  on  the  njth  day  of 
.\ugust,  1809,  appointed  his  "  three  most  intimate  frieiuls,  William  (lark,  Alex- 
ander Stuart,  and  William  C  Can,  his  lawful  attorneys,  willi  full  authority  to 
dispose  of  all  or  any  part  of  his  projjcrty,  real  and  personal,  and  to  p.ay  or 
receive  all  debts  due  by  or  to  him,"  etc.  'This  power  of  attorney  w.as  executed 
in  the  presence  of  Jeremiah  Connor  and  Samuel  Solomon  as  witnesses.  From 
the  fact  of  his  naming  three  attorneys,  clothed  with  such  full  powers  as  are 
usually  exercised  by  executors  only,  Mr.  liillon  remarks  that  he  might  have  h.ad 
some  foreboding  that  he  wouhl  never  return  to  St.  Louis,  even  if  he  then  enter- 
tained no  idea  of  .self-destruction.  In  1810  Ldward  Hempstead  was  appointed 
administrator  of  his  est.ate  by  the  General  Court  of  Louisiana  'Territory.  He  had 
purchased  seveial  pieces  of  land  in  the  vicinity  of  the  village  of  St.  Louis, 
among  them  a  ^yi  arpent  piece,  just  above  the  then  north  end  of  the  village. 
On  a  part  of  this  is  now  the  Helcher  sugar  refinery,  and  a  part  of  it  now  forms 
Lewis  street. 

-"On  the  Mississippi,  at  present  site  of  the  city  uf  Memphis,  Shelby  Co.,  'Tenn. 


f^ 


MKMOIU   «»1'    MKKIWKIIIKk    I.KWIS. 


nU 


thoncc  by  water.  Mr.  Nccly,  A^jcnt  of  the  United  States 
uitli  tlie  Chickasaw  Indians,  arriving  there  two  days  alter, 
found  liini  extremely  indisposed  and  betraying  at  times 
some  symptoms  of  a  derangement  of  mind.  The  rumors  of 
a  war  with  ICn^jland,  and  apprehensions  that  he  might  lose 
tile  papers  lie  was  brin^in^j  on,  among  wliitli  were  the 
vouchers  of  his  public  accounts  and  the  journals  and  papers 
of  his  Western  li.vpedition,  induced  him  here  to  change  his 
mind  and  to  take  his  course  by  land  through  the  Chickasaw 
country  [Tennessee].  Although  he  appeared  somewhat 
relieved,  Mr.  Neely  kindly  determined  to  accompany  and 
watch  over  him.  Unfortunately,  at  their  encampment,  after 
having  passed  the  Tennessee  [river]  one  day's  journey,  they 
lost  two  horses,  which  obliged  Mr.  Neely  to  halt  for  their 
recovery.  The  Governor  proceeded  under  a  promise  to  wait 
for  him  at  the  house  of  the  first  white  inhabitant  on  his 
road.  He  stopped  at  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Grinder,"  who  not 
being  at  home,  his  wife,  alarmed  at  the  symptoms  of  de- 
rangement she  discovered,  gave  him  up  the  house  and 
retired  to  rest  herself  in  an  outhouse,  the  Governor's  and 
Neely's  servants  lodging  in  another.  .'^  l)out  three  o'clock  in 
the  night  [of  Oct.  i  ith,  1S09I  he  tlid  thi  -ed  which  plunged 
his  friends  into  affliction  and  deprived  his  country  of  one  of 
her  most  valued  citizens,  whose  valor  and  intelligence  would 
have  been  now  employed  in  avenging  the  wrongs  of  his 
country,  and  in  emulating  by  land  the  splendid  deeds  which 


*'  In  whnt  is  now  Lewis  t'o.,  'I'enn.,  two  miles  west  of  the  county  town  of 
Newhiirgh.  Kor  LircunistaiicL-s  of  the  journey  .ind  the  (|uestion  of  suicide  or 
murder,  see  the  Supplement  to  this  MenK'ir,  licyond.  I  have  a  letter  <lated  /Ktna, 
Teiin.,  July  (jtli,  l8cjO,  aildressed  to  Mr.  James  I).  Park,  of  Warner,  'Penn.,  hy 
one  Joel  1'.  Morrison,  of  whom  1  know  nothinj;.  From  this  letter  it  appears 
that  the  name  was  not  Clrindcr,  hut  (.Iriner,  and  that  his  place  was  near  a  creek 
of  the  same  name.  lUit  several  name'-  'iccur  in  this  letter  niistakeidy,  and  the 
following;  statement  tan  oidy  pasN  for  what  it  may  be  worth  ;  "  Lewis  stoi)ed  at 
tiie  house  of  One  Robert  K.  Ciriner  Near  the  head  of  what  is  known  as  Cjriners 
Creek  in  what  is  now  lewis  County  Next  Morninj;  he  was  found  Dead  with 
Marks  of  violence  on  his  person,  and  the  report  v.  ^nt  ■ut  that  he  committed 
suicide  but  there  has  always  been  suspicion  of  foul  play  how  this  was  will  never 
be  known." 


ti 


'mm'^mtfm^mr^^ 


xlii 


MEMOIR   OF    MERIWETHER   LEWIS. 


have  honored  her  arms  on  the  ocean.  It  lost,  too,  to  the 
nation  the  benefit  of  receiving  from  his  own  hand  the  narra- 
tive {p.xxiii)  now  offered  them  of  his  sufferings  and  suc- 
cesses, in  endeavoring  to  extend  for  them  the  boundaries  of 
science  and  to  present  to  their  knowledge  that  vast  and  fer- 
tile country  which  their  sons  are  destined  to  fill  with  arts, 
with  science,  witij  freedom  and  happiness. 

To  this  melancholy  close  of  the  life  of  one  whom  posterity 
will  declare  not  to  have  lived  in  vain,  I  have  only  to  add 
that  all  the  facts  I  have  stated  are  cither  known  to  myself 
or  communicated  by  his  family  or  others,  for  whose  truth  I 
have  no  hesitation  to  make  myself  responsible ;  and  I  con- 
clude with  tendering  you  the  assurances  of  my  respect  and 
consideration. 

„    „  Th.  Jefferson. 

Mr.  Paul  Alle.n,  Philadelphia. 


T"-' 


SUPPLEMENT  TO  JEFFERSON'S  MEMOIR 
OF  MERIWETHER  LEWIS. 

I!V    DK.    COUKS. 

Ex-Pri:side\t  Jefki- rson's  Memoir  of  Lewis  is  a  noble 
and  fitting  tribute,  leaving  little  to  be  desired  as  a  contem- 
poraneous biography.     It  has  been  accepted  as  authoritative 
and  final,  and  has  furnished  the  basis  of  every  memoir  of 
Lewis  I  have  seen.     As  will  be  observed,  however,  I  have 
found  much  historical  matter  to  incorporate  with  it  in  the 
form  of  notes.     What  else  I  have  to  say  concerns  not  Lewis' 
life,  but  the  circumstances  of  his  death  ;   and  certain  subse- 
quent events,  which  may  be  brought  together  in  the  form 
of  a  supplement  to  Jefferson's  Memoir.     The  affirmation  of 
suicide,  though  made  without  qualification,  has  not  passed 
unchallenged   into  history;    and  the   mystery  of  the  tragic 
event   will    probably   never   be   cleared    up.      Undoubtedly 
Jefferson  wrote  in  the  light   of  all  the   evidence  that  had 
reached  him  in  1813  ;  but  it  appears  that  his  view  of  the  case 
was  far  from  being  that  of  persons  who  lived  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  scene  at  the  time.     That  Governor  Lewis  did  not  die 
by  his  own  hand,  but  was  murdered  and  robbed,  was  com- 
mon report  at  the  time,  as  vouched  for  by  some  persons  still 
living;  and  the  question  came  up  in  the  Legislature  of  Ten- 
nessee at   its    session   of   1849-50,  in    connection   with    the 
erection  of  the  monument  fur   which    the  Legislature  had 
provided  in   1848. 

By  far  the  most  circumstantial  account  we  have  of  the 
tragedy  is  that  given  by  Alexander  Wilson,  the  famous  orni- 
thologist, in  a  letter  which  was  written  to  his  friend  and  the 
engraver  of  his  birds,  Alexander  Lawson,  and  which  was  pub- 
lished originally  in  The  Portfolio,  Vol.  VIL,  No.  i.  pp.  34- 

xliii 


M 


_,__^JW 


xliv 


SUri'LEMExNT  TO  JEFFERSON  S 


47,  of  date  January,  1812,  under  the  caption  "  Particulars  of 
the  Death  of  Capt.  Lewis."  This  was  known  and  accessible 
to  ex-President  Jefferson;  in  fact,  a  letter  from  Paul  Allen 
to  him,  which  I  have  seen,  calls  his  attention  to  it.  But  it  is 
not  noted  in  his  Memoir  of  Lewis,  and  in  the  course  of  time 
has  been  practically  forgotten,  though  it  is  included  in  the 
Rev.  Alexander  B.  Grosart's  The  Poems  and  Literary  Prose 
of  Alexander  Wilson  (2  vols.,  8vo,  Paisley,  1876).  This  im- 
portant letter  is  dated  "  Natchez,  Missisippi  Ten,  May  28th, 
181 1."  It  tells  the  story  of  Lewis'  death  as  Wilson  took  it 
down  from  the  lips  of  Mrs.  Grinder,  in  her  own  house.  I 
quote  from  The  Portfolio  those  portions,  pp.  36-38,  which 
are  pertinent  to  my  purpose  : 

"...  Next  morning  (Sunday)  I  rode  six  miles  to  a  man's 
of  the  name  of  Grinder,  where  our  poor  friend  Lewis  per- 
ished. In  the  same  room  where  he  expired,  I  took  down 
from  Mrs.  Grinder  the  particulars  of  that  melancholy  event, 
which  affected  me  extremely.  This  house  or  cabin  is  72 
miles  from  Nashville,  and  is  the  last  white  man's  as  you  enter 
the  Indian  country.  Governor  Lewis,  she  said,  came  there 
about  sun-set,  alone,  and  inquired  if  he  could  stay  for  the 
night ;  and,  alighting,  brought  his  saddle  into  the  house. 
He  was  dressed  in  a  loose  gown,  white,  striped  with  blue. 
On  being  asked  if  he  came  alone,  he  replied  that  there  were 
two  servants  behind,  who  would  soon  be  up.  Me  called  for 
some  spirits,  and  drank  a  very  little.  When  the  servants 
arri>/(^d;  rm.e  of  whom  was  a  negro,  he  inquired  for  his  pow- 
der, saying  he  was  sure  he  had  some  powder  in  a  canister. 
The  servant  gave  no  distinct  reply,  and  Lewis,  in  the  mean 
while,  walked  backwards  and  forwards  befo'-e  the  door, 
talking  to  himself.  Sometimes,  she  said,  he  would  seem  as 
if  he  were  walking  up  to  her;  and  would  suddenly  wheel 
round,  and  walk  back  as  fast  as  he  could.  Supper  being 
ready  he  sat  down,  but  had  eaten  only  a  few  mouthfuls 
when  he  started  up,  speaking  to  himself  in  a  violent  manner. 
At  these  times,  she  says,  she  observed  his  face  to  flush  as  if 
it  had  come  on  him  in  a  fit.     lie  lighted  his  pipe,  and  draw- 


MEMOIR   0¥  MERIWETHER   LEWIS. 


xlv 


ing  a  chair  to  the  door  sat  down,  saying  to  Mrs.  Grinder,  in 
a  kind  tone  of  voice,  '  Madam  this  is  a  very  pleasant  even- 
ing.' He  smoked  for  some  time,  but  quitted  his  seat  and 
traversed  the  yard  as  before.  He  again  sat  down  to  his 
pipe,  seemed  again  composed,  and  casting  his  eyes  wishfully 
towards  the  west,  observed  what  a  sweet  evening  it  was. 
Mrs.  Grinder  was  preparing  a  bed  for  him  ;  but  he  said  he 
would  sleep  on  the  floor,  and  desired  the  servant  to  bring  the 
bear  skins  and  buffaloe  robe,  which  were  immediately  spread 
out  for  him  ;  and  it  being  now  dusk  the  woman  went  off  to 
the  kitchen,  and  the  two  men  to  the  barn,  which  stands  about 
200  yards  off.  The  kitchen  is  only  a  few  paces  from  the 
room  where  Lewis  was,  and  the  woman  being  considerably 
alarmed  by  the  behaviour  of  her  guest  could  not  sleep,  but 
listened  to  him  walking  backwards  and  forwards,  she  thinks, 
for  several  hours,  and  talking  aloud,  as  she  said,  '  like  a  law- 
yer.' She  then  heard  the  report  of  a  pistol,  and  something 
fall  heavily  on  the  floor,  and  the  words  'O  Lord!'  Imme- 
diately afterwards  she  heard  another  pistol,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  she  heard  him  at  her  door  calling  out  '  O  madam  ! 
give  me  some  water,  and  heal  my  wounds.'  The  logs  being 
open,  and  unplastercd,  she  saw  him  stagger  back  and  fall 
against  a  stump  that  stands  between  the  kitchen  and  room. 
He  crawled  for  some  distance,  raised  himself  by  the  side 
of  a  tree,  wliere  he  sat  about  a  minute.  He  once  more  got 
to  the  room  ;  afterwards  he  came  to  the  kitchen  door,  but 
did  not  speak  ;  she  then  heard  him  scraping  the  bucket  with 
a  gourd  for  water;  but  it  appears  that  this  cooling  element 
was  denied  the  dying  man !  As  soon  as  day  broke  and  not 
before,  the  terror  of  tae  woman  having  permitted  him  to 
remain  for  two  hours  in  this  most  deplorable  situation,  she 
sent  two  of  her  children  to  the  barn,  her  husband  not  being 
at  home,  to  bring  the  servants;  and  on  going  in  they  found 
him  lying  on  the  bed  ;  he  uncovered  his  side  and  shewed 
them  where  the  bullet  had  entered  ;  a  piece  of  the  forehead 
was  blown  off,  and  had  exposed  the  brains,  without  having 
bled  much.     He  begged  they  would  take  his  rifle  and  blow 


m 


xlvi 


SUPPLEMENT   TO   JEFFERSON'S 


out  his  'trains,  and  he  would  give  them  all  the  money 
he  had  in  his  trunk.  He  often  said  '  I  am  no  coward  ;  but 
I  am  so  strong,  so  hard  to  die.'  He  begg'd  the  servant  not 
to  be  afraid  of  him,  for  that  he  would  not  hurt  him.  He 
expired  in  about  two  hours,  or  just  as  the  sun  rose  above  the 
trees.  He  lies  buried  close  by  the  common  path,  with  a  few 
loose  rails  thrown  over  his  grave.  I  gave  Grinder  money  to 
put  a  post  fence  round  it,  to  shelter  it  from  the  hogs,  and 
from  the  wolves ;  and  he  gave  me  his  written  promise  he 
would  do  it.  I  left  this  place  in  a  very  melancholy  mood, 
which  was  not  much  allayed  by  the  prospect  of  the  gloomy 
and  savage  wilderness  which  1  was  just  entering  alone.  .  .  ."  ' 
Such  is  the  horrible  story  told  to  Wilson  by  an  eye-  and 
ear-witness.  We  must  accept  the  substantial  accuracy  of 
Wilson's  version,  written  almost  immediately  after  he  heard 
the  narrative  of  Mrs.  Grinder,  and  by  one  noted  for  habitual 
precision  of  statement.  There  is  no  more  room  to  doubt 
Wilson's  painstaking  correctness  than  there  is  reason  for 
doubting  his  veracity.  But  the  narrative  of  Mrs.  Grinder 
is  very  extraordinary.  A  woman  who  could  do  as  she  said 
she  did,  after  hearing  and  seeing  what  she  testifies,  must  be 
judged  "fit  for  treason,  stratagem,  and  spoils,"  and  not  to  be 
believed  under  oath.  The  story  is  wildly  improbable  upon 
its  face  ;  it  does  not  hang  together  ;  there  is  every  sign  that 
it  is  a  concoction  on  the  part  of  an  accomplice  in  crime, 
either  before  or  after  the  event.  On  the  theory  that  Mrs. 
Grinder  was  privy  to  a  plot  to  murder  Governor  Lewis,  and 
therefore  had  her  own  part  to  play  in  the  tragedy,  even  if 
that  part  were  a  passive  one — or  on  the  theory  that,  becoming 
afterward  cognizant  of  the  murder,  she  told  a  story  to  shield 

'  The  "  melnncliiily  pcK't-ii,\turalist,"  aa  Wilson  has  often  been  styled,  was 
moved  to  compose  an  elejjy  on  Lewis,  which  was  ])ublished  with  the  letter  of  which 
the  above  is  an  extract.     The  first  and  also  the  last  of  the  nineteen  verses  is  : 


Far  hence  be  each  acciisinj;  thought  ! 

Witli  his  my  kindred  tears  shall  flow  ; 
Pale  Pity  consecrates  the  spot, 

Where  poor  lost  Licwis  now  lies  low  ! " 


MEMOIR   OF   MERIWETHER   LEWIS. 


xlvii 


the  actual  criminal  or  criminals — on  either  of  these  theories 
\vc  could  understand  Mrs.  Grinder;  otherwise  her  story  is 
simply  incredible.  Yet  it  is  upon  such  evidence  as  this  that 
the  imputation  of  suicide  rests. 

Governor  Lewis'  alleged  actions,  before  he  retired  to  his 
room  "  about  dusk,"  seem  nothing  extraordinary.  He  cer- 
tainly appears  to  have  been  fretted  or  worried  about  some- 
thing; but  there  was  nothing  in  his  conduct  which  should 
have  so  alarmed  Grinder's  wife  that  she  could  not  sleep,  but 
lay  listening  "  she  thinks  for  several  hours."  The  sort  of  a 
woman  likely  to  be  the  wife  of  a  keeper  of  a  "  stand  "  on  the 
Natchez  Trace  in  1809  is  not  likely  to  have  had  such  weak 
nerves  as  that.  And  where  was  Grinder  himself  on  this  fate- 
ful night  ?  Then  she  hears  two  pistol-shots,  a  heavy  fall,  and 
an  appeal  for  help.  This,  however,  only  moves  her  to  peep 
through  the  cracks  in  the  logs  of  the  detached  kitchen. 
There  she  sees  her  guest  staggering,  falling,  and  crawling 
about  in  the  yard  in  search  of  water.  Still  she  does  not  stir, 
and  it  is  not  till  daybreak,  about  "  two  hours  "  after  the  shots 
were  fired,  that  the  terror  of  the  woman  permits  her  to  give 
the  alarm.  This  she  docs  by  standing  "  two  children  "  to  the 
burn  to  bring  the  servants,  who  meanwhile  had  heard  nothing  ; 
and  the  whole  party  now,  for  the  first  time,  musters  courage 
enough  to  enter  Governor  Lewis'  room.  Two  hours  more 
pass,  during  which  they  are  begged  and  offered  money  to 
put  him  out  of  his  misery  ;  but  nothing  is  done,  and  the 
governor  expires  as  the  sun  tops  the  trees. 

Governor  Lewis  may  have  committed  the  deed  which 
history  has  laid  to  his  charge,  in  a  fit  of  suicidal  mania ;  and 
the  woman's  incoherent  story  may  not  have  been  intended  to 
deceive,  but  may  have  arisen  from  confused  memories  of  an 
exciting  night.  That  is  conceivable;  but  my  contention  is 
that  the  testimony,  as  we  have  it,  does  not  suffice  to  prove 
suicide,  and  does  raise  a  strong  suspicion  that  Governor  Lewis 
was  foully  dealt  with  by  some  person  or  persons  unknown — 
presumably  Grinder,  or  him  and  some  accomplices.  Until 
other  evidence  is  forthcoming  the  victim  of  untimely  fate 


ill 


xlviii 


SUPPLEMENT  TO   JEFFERSON'S 


should  be  given  the  full  benefit  of  the  doubt,  that  no  stigma 
may  rest  on  his  illustrious  name.  History  may  never  be 
able  to  disprove  the  alleged  suicide  ;  neither  has  history  thus 
far  proven  the  allegation.  This  death  remains  a  mystery; 
but  mystery  should  not  be  paraded  as  history. 

Very  recently  the  question  has  been  reopened,  with 
a  view  of  setting  aside  the  verdict  of  posterity,  by  Mr. 
James  D.  Park,  a  lawyer  of  Franklin,  Tenn.,  who  inclines 
strongly  to  the  theory  of  murder  and  robbery,  not  suicide. 
Mr.  Park's  article,  over  the  pseudonym  "John  Quill,"  was 
published  in  the  Nashville  (Tenn.)  American  of  Sunday, 
September  6th,  1891.  It  occupies  4j/(  columns  of  the  news- 
paper, and  has  two  illustrations — one  a  portrait  of  Lewis, 
from  the  miniature  profile  in  the  possession  of  the  State  His- 
torical Society  of  Tennessee  at  Nashville;''  the  other  a  pic- 
ture of  the  monument,  from  a  sketch  made  by  Mr.  Park  on 
the  spot.  Whatever  view  be  taken  of  the  tragedy,  Mr.  Park's 
article  is  a  valuable  historical  document,  bringing  news  to 
most  persons.  Some  of  it  is  biographical,  citing  the  brief 
notice  in  Howe's  Historical  Collections  of  Virginia.' and  the 
more  extended  sketch  of  Lewis'  life  in  the  Analectic  Maga- 
zine and  Naval  Chronicle,  VH.  April,  1816,  pp.  329-333  (with 
frontisp.  portrait) — both  of  which  were  in  turn  based  on 
Jefferson's  Memoir;  another  portion  is  historical,  giving  the 

''On  Nov.  ifitli,  1892,  I  cklivtred  in  Washiiij^ton,  before  the  American  Onii- 
tliologists'  Union,  an  off-h.ind  .iddrcss  nnmin.illy  relatiujj;  to  tlie  birds  of  Lewis 
.ind  Clark,  l)iit  mainly  occupied  with  the  question  of  Lewis'  death.  A  reporter  who 
was  present  took  me  down,  with  the  result  of  a  somewhat  sensational,  but  in  the 
main  correct,  article  of  two  columns'  length  in  the  St.  Louis  (llobe-Democrat  of 
Nov.  i()th,  iS(}2.  Tlds  has  two  portraits,  of  Lewis  and  of  Clark  respectively. 
I  allude  to  this  article  jiartly  from  my  Inbliographicat  instincts,  but  mainly  to 
say  that  the  jiortrait  of  Lewis  is  there  j^iven  as  that  of  Clark,  and  vice  versa  ; 
■nlso,  that  the  former  is  from  a  iihoto};raph  of  this  same  Nashville  miniature. 

'Historical  Collections  of  Virginia:  Containing  a  Collection  of  the  most 
interesting  l-'acts,  Traditions,  I!ioj;ra])hical  Sketches,  Anecdotes,  etc.,  relating 
to  its  History,  .Vntiijuities,  etc.,  to  which  is  added  a  historical  and  descriptive 
sketch  of  the  I  >istrict  of  Columbia.  Hy  Henry  Howe.  Published  by  William 
K.  liabcock,  Charleston,  S.  C,  185b,  i  vol.  ovo.  (lliographical  notice  of  Captain 
Lewis,  p.  171.  Piographical  notice  of  Caiitain  Clark,  p.  234.  liuth  inaccurate 
in  some  jiarticulars.) 


MEMOIR   OF    MERIWETHER   LEWIS. 


xlix 


action  of  the  Tennessee  Legislature,  and  the  first  report  of 
the  committee  appointed  to  erect  the  monument,  includ- 
ing a  copy  of  the  several  inscriptions.  The  most  original 
matter  is  the  result  of  Mr.  Park's  researches  on  the  spot, 
which  inclined  him  to  the  view  of  murder  and  not  suicide. 
The  picture  of  the  monument  is  the  first  ever  printed ; 
though  roughly  executed,  as  usual  with  newspaper  cuts,  it 
gives  an  excellent  idea  of  the  object.  I  was  put  in  private 
correspondence  with  Mr.  Park,  through  the  good  offices 
of  Governor  Buchanan  of  Tennessee,  and  will  adduce  the 
substance  of  his  new  evidence,  nearly  in  his  own  words. 

As  adequate  to  support  the  theory  of  suicide  has  been 
held  Mr.  Jefferson's  statement  of  hereditary  hypochondria, 
developed  to  desperation  under  worry  over  some  trouble 
about  public  money  accounts.  Mr.  Jefferson  touches  very 
lightly  upon  the  latter  feature  of  the  case,  but  others  have 
spoken  more  pointedly.  Thus  in  Howe's  Historical  Collec- 
tions, p.  1 7 1,  we  read:  "He  was  subject  to  constitutional 
hypochondria,  and  while  under  the  influence  of  a  severe 
attack,  shot  himself  on  the  borders  of  Tennessee  in  1809,  at 
the  age  of  35.  This  event  was  ascribed  to  the  protest  of 
some  bills  which  he  drew  on  the  public  account."  Again, 
we  find  in  Jacob's  Life  and  Times  of  I'atrick  Gass,  pp.  no, 
III,  remarks  upon  the  same  score,  with  some  particulars  to 
which  ex-President  Jefferson  does  no  more  than  allude. 
Says  Jacob : 

"  Lewis  was  appointed  very  shortly  after  his  return  in 
1806,  Governor  of  Louisiana  Territory,  as  some  acknowl- 
ment  of  his  merit,  and  compensation  for  his  services.  In 
this  capacity  he  acted  for  some  time,  but  unfortunately  a 
misunderstanding  arose  between  him  and  the  government 
in  regard  to  the  settlement  of  his  public  accounts.  He  was 
the  very  soul  of  honor  and  of  unimpeachable  integrity,  and 
the  implied  imputation  dwelt  too  heavily  upon  his  proud 
and  sensitive  spirit.  He  started  to  Washington  City  for  an 
explanation,  but  never  reached  his  destination.  In  com- 
pany with   another  man  [Mr.  Neely]   he  traveled   the    old 


i 


I 


I 


1 


SUPPLEMENT  TO   JEFFERSON'S 


route  followed  by  the  boatmen  at  that  day,  through  the 
Indian  country,  and  having  reached  a  small  cabin  occupied 
by  a  m^.n  named  Grinders  [Grinder]  as  a  kind  of  tavern 
for  travellers,  just  within  the  Chickasaw  nation,  near  the 
Tennessee  line,  and  between  25  and  30  [read  60  or  70J  miles 
of  Nashville,  his  man  left  him  to  go  in  search  of  a  horse  that 
had  strayed.  During  his  absence  after  the  horse,  Lewis 
shot  himself  twice  with  a  pistol,  and  this  failing  to  effect 
his  purpose,  he  killed  himself  by  cutting  his  throat  with  a 
knife  [!].  No  one  saw  him  commit  the  act,  but  some  of  the 
[Grinder]  family  afterwards  reported  that  they  had  observed 
indications  that  his  mind  was  affected,  on  the  morning  of 
[evening  before]  his  death.  His  body  was  buried  at  the 
corner  of  the  cabin,  and  for  a  long  time  after,  the  spot  was 
remembered  by  the  adventurous  traders  who  passed  that 
way  [along  the  Natchez  Trace],  between  New  Orleans  and 
the  upper  country.  Thus  was  ushered  into  eternity  a  brave 
and  chivalrous  spirit,  goaded  to  desperation  by  the  chafing 
of  wounded  honor.  .  .  It  is  enough  for  the  historian  to  say 
that  he  died  with  the  cloud  on  his  memorj'  ;  and  while  he 
records  his  fate  with  a  careful  pen,  he  would  ask  of  the 
world  its  most  charitable  judgment.  The  charges  against 
him  were  hushed,  communities  and  States  vied  to  do  him 
honor,  and  [in  184S]  the  Legislature  of  Tennessee,  his 
adopted  State,  to  manifest  an  appreciation  of  what  was  high 
and  noble  in  his  character  and  services,  ordered  a  monument 
to  be  erected  to  his  memory  at  the  State's  expense." 

Mr.  Jacob's  paragraph  in  Gass  fairly  reflects  accredited 
history,  excepting  what  he  says  of  recourse  to  the    knife. 

A  similar  view  of  the  case  is  presented  in  J.  B.  Killebrew's 
Resources  of  Tennessee  (Nashville,  1874),  p.  791,  where 
Lewis  county  is  described  :  "  In  the  very  centre  of  the  pres- 
ent county,  on  the  line  of  the  old  Natchez  Trace,  while  on 
a  journey  from  the  Territory  of  Louisiana,  of  which  he 
was  Governor,  Merriwether  \su-]  Lewis  committed  suicide, 
being  at  the  time  a  little  over  35  years  of  age.  On  this  very 
spot   he  was  buried,  and   the   Legislature  of   Tennessee  in 


I 


MEMOIR   OF   MliRIWETHER    LEWIS. 


li 


nit 


1848  had  a  suitable  monument  erected  to  his  memory.  .  . 
In  the  midst  of  dense  woods,  several  miles  from  any  human 
habitation,  on  the  crest  of  a  bold  broad  ridge,  with  deep 
gorges  running  toward  the  northeast  and  west,  and  near  the 
commencement  of  the  flat  lands,  this  monument  stands, 
seldom  visited,  and  almost  forgotten  by  the  present  genera- 
tion. Its  entire  height  is  about  25  [read  20^]  feet,  and  it 
is  surrounded  by  an  iron  fence  in  a  state  of  great  dilapida- 
tion, many  of  the  rods  having  been  taken  away." 

The  Analectic  Magazine  and  Naval  Chronicle,'  Vol.  VII., 
No.  40,  April,  1816,  gives  a  full-length  portrait  of  Captain 
Lewis  in  Indian  dress,  as  a  frontispiece;  and  the  same  num- 
ber of  this  magazine  contains,  pp.  3-9-333,  a  "  Notice  of 
Captain  M.  Lewis."  This  is  simply  abridged  from  the  Jef- 
ferson Memoir,  and  is  mostly  in  the  words  of  the  latter. 
Concerning  the  portrait  the  editor  says  : 

"  The  portrait  of  captain  Lewis,  given  in  the  present  num- 
ber, is  taken  from  a  drawing  of  that  officer  belonging  to  his 
fellow  traveler,  governor  Clark,  who  considers  it  an  e.xccl- 
lent  likeness,  and  prizes  it  highly.  The  gentleman  [name  not 
given]  who  lent  it  to  us  remained  here  but  a  short  time,  and 
was  obliged  to  take  it  with  him  ;  to  which  circumstance  it  is 
owing  that  our  engraving  from  it  is  not  executed  in  so  good 
a  style  as  we  could  have  wished.  But  that  engraving  is  a 
faithful  copy  of  the  original,  which  is  believed  to  be  the  only 
likeness    of    Captain   Lewis    now    e.xtant.     The    ornaments 


i 


i 


V  s 
re 
:s- 
>n 
lie 
[e, 
jry 
lin 


■•  Published  monthly  by  Moses  Thomas,  3vo,  Phil.ida. ;  printed  Ijy  J.  Max- 
well— the  same  who  printed  the  History  of  the  F.xjiedition  for  Bradfonl  & 
Inskeep.  In  saying  that  the  portrait  he  published  was  from  the  only  likeness  of 
Lewis  extant  in  l3i6.  the  editor  is  mistaken,  unless  the  others  we  possess  were 
executed  after  the  death  of  tlieir  subject.  The  portrait  in  Indian  dress  is  at 
present  in  St.  Louis,  and  may  be  learned  of  through  Mr.  J.  K.  Clark,  3121 
Locust  St.  The  one  from  which  the  engraving  contained  in  the  present  work 
was  prepared  is  the  oil  painting  by  (Charles  WiKon  Peale,  which  has  for  many 
years  hung  in  Independence  Hall  in  Philadelphia,  with  its  com[)anion-piece, 
Captain  Clark,  also  reproduced  by  my  publisher.  Besides  this,  there  is  left  the 
profile  miniature  in  the  possession  of  the  Tennessee  Historical  Society  in  Nash- 
ville. Of  the  latter,  which  is  very  beautiful,  photographs  are  abundant,  and  I 
sup[iose  may  be  procured  at  the  usual  price  for  pictures  of  cabinet  size. 


I  : 


m 


SUITLKMENT    TO  JKKKEKSONS 


worn  by  him  when  in  the  costume  of  an  Indian  warrior,  (as 
represented  in  the  picture)  are  preserved  in  the  Philadelphia 
[I'eale's]  Museum." 

We  may  now  recur  to  Mr.  Park's  article  above  described. 
Jefferson's  account  (says  Mr.  Park  in  substance)  was  written 
in  the  lijjht  of  such  information  as  had  reached  him  in  1813, 
at  his  home  in  Virj^inia.  It  would  be  interesting  to  know 
the  exact  sources  of  his  information  were  this  possible  now, 
to  judge  for  ourselves  whether  they  were  entirely  free  from 
suspicion.  Probably  such  accounts  did  not  convey  the  idea 
of  murder  and  robbery.  It  then  required  several  weeks 
for  the  news  to  travel  from  the  scene  to  Washinjjton  ;  and 
whether  the  details  of  the  death  of  Governor  Lewis  ever 
reached  the  national  capital  in  ofificial  form  cannot  now  be 
learned. 

During  the  first  years  of  this  century  a  great  military  road 
was  cut  through  the  then  wilderness  of  Tennessee  and  Mis- 
sissippi, known  as  the  "  Natchez  Trace."  It  was  made  by 
Lieutenant  Edmund  Pendleton  Gaines,  U.  S.  A.,  who  rose 
to  be  a  major  general  during  the  war  of  1812-15.  It  led 
southwest  from  Nashville,  Tenn.,  to  Natchez  on  the  Missis- 
sippi river,  and  was  the  only  public  road  in  that  region,  cut  to 
facilitate  the  movement  of  troops  and  the  transportation  of 
supplies  to  and  from  the  newly  acquired  "  Spanish  country." 
This  old  road  has  since  been  abandoned  in  many  places,  but 
in  other  parts  of  its  length  it  is  still  (1891)  used.  Even 
where  given  up,  and  passing  through  open  woods  or  inclosed 
in  fields,  its  course  can  still  be  traced  through  Tennessee  and 
Mississippi  by  its  well-worn  bed,  lower  than  the  adjoining 
land.  Governor  Lewis  struck  across  country  directly  east- 
ward from  the  Chickasaw  Bluffs  (the  present  site  of  Mem- 
phis, Tenn.),  and  probably  made  the  Natchez  Trace  at  or 
about  where  this  Trace  crosses  the  Tennessee  river,  in  what 
is  now  Lauderdale  Co.,  in  northern  Alabama,  about  20 
miles  below  the  town  of  Florence,  and  traveled  it  for  about 
a  day's  march  west  of  Newburgh,  Lewis  Co.,  Tenn.,  the  scene 
of  the  tragedy.     At  this  point  in  the  journey,  observes  Mr. 


il;r<^jgg4»'.:Wi>*Vajjtf-y-'^^^^^^ 


MEMOIR   OK    MERIWKrHKR    I.KWIS. 


m 


Park,  "the  conduct  of  Mr.  Nccly,  the  Indian  agent,  as  men- 
tioned in  Mr.  Jefferson's  account,  seems  to  have  been  very 
strange.  He  had  at  the  Chickasaw  IMuffs  volunteered  to 
accompany  Governor  Lewis  from  there  througli  tlie  Indian 
country  to  the  seat  of  government,  in  order  to  h)ok  after  and 
watch  over  his  distinguislied  guest,  whom  he  liad  found 
(juite  indisposed,  and,  as  alleged,  showing  signs  of  a  disordered 
mind.  They  liad  servants  and  horses  in  their  train  ;  yet  the 
recapture  of  two  horses  that  had  strayed  from  the  camp  was 
deemed  by  Mr.  Neely  of  more  importance  than  the  welfare 
and  safety  of  his  friend,  whom  he  permitted  to  go  forward 
with  the  servants  while  he  remained  a  whole  day  behind  to 
look  up  the  horses.  The  accounts  do  not  show  that  he 
ever  found  them,  or  ever  caught  uj)  with  Governor  Lewis." 

Thus  it  appears  that  from  the  point  above  noted  Governor 
Lewis  kept  on,  unattended  by  Mr.  Neely,  along  the  Natchez 
Trace.  On  this  road,  at  intervals  of  about  a  day's  journey, 
say  some  30  miles,  there  were  primitive  places  of  enter- 
tainment for  man  and  beast,  called  "  stands."  Governor 
Lewis  reached  one  of  these,  kept  by  a  Mr.  Grinder.  The 
site  of  "  Grinder's  stand  "  is  still  seen,  on  a  spot  about  sixty 
miles  in  an  air-line  southwest  of  Nashville,  marked  by  the 
ruins  of  a  stone  chimney,  a  mound  of  earth,  and  the  remains 
of  a  garden  or  small  clearing  in  the  forest.  It  is  on  the 
crest  of  a  ridge,  along  which  runs  the  Natchez  Trace,  not 
now  used  at  this  point.  Even  at  this  day  the  nearest  habita- 
tion is  a  mile  and  a  half  or  two  miles  distant.  North  of  the 
site  of  the  old  house,  and  about  150  yards  from  it,  on  the 
east  side  of  the  road,  is  the  great  explorer's  grave,  and  the 
monument  erected  by  the  State  of  Tennessee  to  his  memory. 

I  give  the  results  of  Mr.  Park's  inquiries  on  the  spot,  Nov. 
21st,  1.S89,  in  his  own  words:  "It  has  always  been  the 
firm  belief  of  the  people  of  this  region  that  Governor  Lewis 
was  murdered  and  robbed.  The  oldest  citizens  now  living 
remember  the  rumor  current  at  the  time  as  to  the  murder, 
and  it  seems  that  no  thought  of  suicide  ever  obtained  foot- 
ing here.     The  writer  recently  had  an  interview  with  Mrs. 


* 


mage  3  rjB^a— a^fcwii 


liv 


SUrPLEMENT  TO  JKFFKRSDN's 


Christina  B.  Anthony,  who  Hvcs  some  two  miles  from 
the  Lewis  grave,  and  has  lived  all  her  life  of  "j"]  years 
in  the  neighborhood.  She  says  that  'old  man  Grinder' 
kept  a  '  stand  '  for  travelers  on  the  Natchez  Trace.  I'olly 
Spencer,  whom  she  knew  well  before  her  death  about  40 
years  ago,  was  a  hired  girl  at  Grinder's  when  Governor 
Lewis  was  killed.  I'olly  had  often  told  the  circumstances 
of  the  murder  so  far  as  she  personally  knew  them.  She 
was  washing  dishes  in  the  kitchen  after  supper  with  some 
of  the  females  in  the  family,  when  they  heard  a  shot  in  the 
room  where  Captain  Lewis  was  sleeping.  All  rushed  into 
the  room  and  found  him  dead  in  his  bed.  Captain  Lewis, 
being  fatigued  from  his  journey,  had  retired  immediately 
after  supper.  His  only  companion,  she  said,  was  a  negro 
boy,  who  was  attending  the  horses  in  the  barn  at  the  time. 
Old  Grinder,  who  was  of  Indian  blood,  was  at  once  sus- 
pected of  the  murder,  ran  away,  was  captured  on  Cane 
creek,  brought  back,  and  tried  ;  but  the  proof  not  being 
positive,  he  was  released.  Only  ::5  cents  was  found  on  the 
person  of  Captain  Lewis  after  he  was  shot.  Old  Grinder 
soon  afterward  removed  to  the  western  part  of  the  State, 
and  it  was  reported  in  his  old  neighborhood  had  bought 
a  number  of  slaves  and  a  farm,  and  seemed  to  have 
plenty  of  money.  Before  this  he  had  always  been  quite 
poor. 

"  Mrs.  Anthony  says  the  people  always  believed  old 
Grinder  killed  Mr.  Lewis  and  got  his  money.  She  had 
never  heard  of  the  theory  of  suicide  until  the  writer  men- 
tioned it  to  her.  Mrs.  Anthony  was  a  young  married 
woman,  boarding  with  the  father  of  Polly  Spencer,  when 
Polly  told  her  of  these  circumstances.  Mrs.  Anthony  thus 
heard  an  ear-witness,  so  to  speak,  relate  the  story  of  the 
murder,  which  is  pretty  direct  evidence.  She  is  a  bright, 
active,  intelligent  old  lady,  and  has  for  many  years  kept  the 
little  hotel  at  the  hamlet  of  Newburgh,  the  county  seat  of 
Lewis  County,  wliich  is  just  two  miles  east  of  the  monu- 
ment.    She  refers  to  her  brother,  Jason  Boshears,  80  years 


I 


.%-« 


•k^pjff^'  - 


MEMOIk   OF    MERIWKTIIKK    IKVVIS. 


w 


of  age,  livinp  near  Mount  Pleasant,  20  miles  distant,  and 
Mrs.  Sallic  Harham  Sims,  82  years  of  age,  living  at  JEtnai 
Furnace,  Hickman  County,  who  were  born  and  formerly 
lived  near  by,  and  who,  she  thinks,  could  give  more  in  detail 
the  circumstances  of  the  murder,  as  developed  on  the  trial 
of  old  Grinder.  It  was,  howevei,  inconvenient  for  the 
writer  to  look  up  these  two  old  persons. 

"  Others  living  in  Lewis  and  adjoining  counties  have  been 
conversed  with,  who  remember  the  general  belief  at  the  time 
that  Grinder  killed  his  guest  for  the  purpose  of  robbery. 
He  must  have  observed  that  Captain  Lewis  was  a  person  of 
distinction  and  wealth  ;  that  he  was  almost  alone  and  prob- 
ably had  money  with  him.  It  seems  incredible  that  a 
young  man  of  35,  the  governor  of  the  vast  territory  of 
Louisiana,  then  on  his  way  from  his  capital  to  that  of  his 
nation,  where  he  know  he  would  be  received  with  all  the 
distinction  and  consideration  due  to  his  ofifice  and  reputa- 
tion, should  take  his  own  life.  His  whole  character  is  a 
denial  of  this  theory.  He  was  too  brave  and  conscientious 
in  the  discharge  of  every  duty,  })ublic  and  private  ;  too  con- 
spicuous a  person  in  the  eyes  of  the  country,  and  crowned 
with  too  many  laurels,  to  cowardly  sneak  out  of  the  world  by 
the  back  way,  a  self-murderer.  This  idea  was  doubtless  in- 
vented to  cover  up  the  double  crime  of  robbery  and  murder, 
and  seems  to  have  been  the  only  version  of  his  death  that 
reached  Mr.  Jefferson  and  his  other  friends  in  Virginia." 

This  is  literally  a  lawyer's  brief,  summing  such  evidence 
as  could  be  procured  to  defend  Governor  Lewis  from  the 
charge  of  suicide.  It  is  probably  as  strong  a  presentation 
of  the  case  as  is  now  possible.  It  also  falls  in  well  with  the 
Wilson  evidence  already  adduced — which  is  the  more  re- 
markable, in  that  Wilson  took  Mrs.  Grinder's  wild  story  to 
be  a  statement  of  fact,  and  evidently  believed  that  poor 
Lewis  had  killed  himself.  That  the  new  Park  testimony  is 
conclusive,  however.  Mr.  Park  himself  would  probably  not 
urge.  That  the  theory  of  murder  was  a  matter  of  common 
report,  acted  upon  at  the  time  to  the  extent  of  the  arrest 


Ivi  SUPPLEMENT   TO   JEEFERSON's 

and  trial  of  Grinder,  and  that  it  has  ever  since  been  believed 
by  the  community,  is  established  by  direct  testimony.  But 
the  evidence,  mainly  circumstantial,  did  not  suffice  to  convict 
Grinder  or  anyone  else  of  murder.  The  fragmentary  evi- 
dence which  has  come  down  to  us,  moreover,  docs  not  hang 
together  well.  It  is  even  opens  up  the  doubt  that  we  have 
tlic  true  date  of  death  within  24  hours.  Jefferson's  account 
makes  the  hour  "about  three  o'clock  in  the  night,"  when 
Polly  Spencer  is  not  likely  to  have  been  washing  dishes  in 
the  kitchen  with  others  of  the  household.  This  means  3 
a.  m.,  of  the  historical  date,  October  nth,  i<So9;  but  from 
w'hat  Mr.  Park  has  adduced,  it  would  appear  that,  irrespec- 
tive of  mode  of  death,  Governor  Lewis  lost  his  life  shortly 
after  the  usual  hour  of  an  evening  meal,  on  October  10th. 
Had  Polly  and  all  the  rest  "  rushed  into  the  room  "  on  hearing 
the  shot,  and  "  found  him  dead  in  his  bed,"  it  seems  likely 
that  more  positive  and  detailed  accounts  of  the  scene  would 
have  at  once  come  into  existence  and  been  perpetuated.  But 
nothing  appears  of  the  whereabouts  of  the  supposititious 
murderer  at  this  moment  ;  and  an  intending  murderer  would 
hardly  have  chosen  so  early  an  hour,  when  all  the  family 
were  up  and  about,  and  he  knew  he  had  the  whole  night  in 
wliich  to  execute  his  design  at  leisure.  It  is  not  unreason- 
able to  translate  Mrs.  Anthony's  report  to  Mr.  Park — made 
about  80  years  after  the  event,  it  must  be  remembered — in 
somewhat  these  words  :  Polly  Spencer  (had  been)  washing 
dishes  (the  evening  before;  and  some  hours  afterward,  when 
the  family  had  been  abed  and  asleep)  they  heard  the  shot, 
and  rushed  into  the  room,  etc.  This  might  easily  have  been 
past  midnight  of  October  loch,  or  about  the  hour  allegeil  of 
October  nth.  But  even  were  the  date  fixed  to  the  hour, 
the  question  of  murder  or  suicide  would  not,  thereby,  h, "  I'^ft 
other  than  it  was  before. 

Mr.  Park  seems  to  me  to  present  a  strong  case, — perhaps 
the  strongest  that  will  ever  be  drawn  up, — and  deserves  much 
credit  for  thus  undertaking  to  clear  so  great  a  name  from  so 
grave  an  imputation.     Prior  to  making  his  investigations  he 


"•*<.- 


MEMOIR  OF   MKRIWETHER   LEWIS. 


Ivii 


i 


! 


had  never  heard  of  the  Wilson  testimony  above  given,  and 
had  read  only  Mr.  Jefferson's  account  of  the  death.  In  fact 
he  had  nothing  but  the  common  belief  of  the  people  to 
go  upon.  He  cites  Governor  Lewis'  established  reputation 
and  well-known  circumstances;  he  brings  forward  an  actual 
arrest  and  trial  for  murder;  and  he  establishes  the  facts 
that  murder  was  at  the  time  a  matter  of  common  allegation 
and  belief,  and  has  been  from  that  day  to  this  the  tradition 
of  the  community.  These  are  strong  points.  But  the  actual 
testimony  adduced  at  this  time  is  from  the  memory  of  one 
person  as  to  events  of  about  eighty  years  ago  ;  it  is  at  sec- 
ond-hand, indirect,  and  circumstantial  only ;  thus  being 
fatally  defective.  It  is  also  offset  by  the  unqualified  state- 
ments of  Mr.  Jefferson,  a  wary  and  astute  man  of  the  world, 
accustomed  to  weigh  his  words  well  ;  one  who  must  have 
been  satisfied  in  his  own  mind  that  he  had  the  facts  of  a  case 
beyond  his  personal  knowledge  ;  and  one  who  had  every 
imaginable  reason — personal,  official,  or  other — to  put  the 
matter  in  the  most  favorable  light.  The  mystery  remains, 
and  it  is  not  prob:ible  that  the  truth  will  ever  be  known. 

It  is  a  relief  to  turn  from  this  sad  scene,  and  see  what  has 
been  done  to  honor  Governor  Lewis  by  the  country  beloved 
and  served  so  well.  The  erection  of  his  monument  is  an 
incident  in  the  history  of  a  State. 

On  the  2 1st  of  December,  1843,'  the  legislature  of  Ten- 
nessee passed  an  act  creating  the  County  of  Lewis,  "  In 
honor  of  Capt.  Merrewether  Lewis,  who  has   rendered  dis- 


'  Acts  passed  at  the  First  Session  of  the  Twenty-fifth  C.eneral  Assem))ly  of  the 
State  of  Tennessee,  1843-44,  P"''-  '844.  i  y«i.,  8vo,  pp.  41-44  :  "An  Act  to 
establish  the  County  of  Lewis.  Sect.  i.  He  it  enacted  by  the  Cieneral  Assembly 
of  the  State  of  Tennessee,  That  a  new  county  be,  and  the  same  is  hereby  estab- 
lished, to  be  comiiosed  of  fractions  taken  from  the  counties  of  Maury,  Lawrence, 
Wayne  and  Hickman  and  to  be  kno-Au  and  dcsii;natcd  by  the  name  of  Lewis 
County,  in  honor  of  Captain  Merre-.vether  [r/c]  Lewis,  who  has  rendered  distin- 
guished services  to  his  ror.iiliy,  and  whose  remains  lie  buried  and  neglected 
within  its  liiv.iis,"  etc.,  to  Sect.  15  inclusive — being  the  usual  provisions  for  form- 
ing and  iriaintaining  a  county.  I'.assed  Dec.  2Ist,  1843.  D.  L.  Harringcr,  Sjieaker 
of  the  Hous  •  of  Kciircseiitativcs  ;  J.  M.  Anderson,  Speaker  of  the  Senate. 


\ 


■■T  ^.  «■'"■' 


■■^^fa^Mq|^ng|fi» 


Iviii 


SUPPLEMENT  TO  JEFFERSON  S 


tinguished  services  to  his  country,  and  whose  remains  lie 
buried  and  neglected  within  its  limits."  The  grave  is  in  the 
exact  center  of  this  county,  which  was  surveyed  from  this 
point  and  carved  out  of  the  then  surrounding  counties  of 
Maury,  Hickman,  Wayne,  and  Lawrence. 

On  the  4th  of  February,  1848,"  the  same  legislature  appro- 
priated S500  for  the  erection  of  a  suitable  monument,  and 
appointed  four  distinguished  citizens  of  Tennessee  as  a  com- 
mittee to  carry  out  this  design  and  report  to  the  next  legis- 
lature. The  gentlemen  accepted  the  commission  as  a  labor 
of  love  and  duty.  The  "  Report  of  the  Lewis  Monumental 
Committee,"  made  to  the  legislature  of  1 849-50,  as  appears 
from  the  Appendix  to  the  Journal  of  the  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives, pp.  238-240,  is  as  follows  : ' 

"  To  the  General  Assembly  of  the  State  of  Tennessee: 
"  By  the  ninth  section  of  an  act  passed  at  the  last  session 
of  the  General  Assembly  of  this  State,  entitled  an  act  to 


'  Acts  of  the  State  of  Tennessee  passed  at  the  First  Session  of  the  Twenty- 
seventh  General  .Xssemlily  for  the  years  1847-48,  pub.  1848,  I  vol.,  8vo,  p.  217, 
Chap,  cxxxv.  An  .\ct  to  amend  an  act,  passed  the  21st  of  Pec.  1843,  entitled 
an  "  act  to  establish  the  County  of  Lewis."  Sect.  9  is  :  "He  it  further  enacted, 
That  the  sum  of  five  hundred  dollars  lie,  and  the  same  is  hereby  a[)propriated 
out  of  any  money  in  the  Treasury  not  otherwise  appropriated,  or  so  much 
therei.f  as  may  be  necessary  to  jireserve  the  jilace  of  interment,  where  the  remains 
of  the  Gen.  .Meriwether  I.iwis  were  deposited,  and  that  Robert  A.  Smith,  of 
the  county  of  Lewis,  Hon.  Edmund  Iiillahunty  and  Barclay  Martin,  of  Maury 
county,  and  Dr.  Samuel  B.  Moore,  of  Hickman  county,  be,  and  are  hereby  made 
the  agents  of  the  General  .Assembly  to  carry  into  execution  the  provisions  of 
this  act,  and  report  to  the  next  General  .Assembly."  Passed  Feb.  4th,  1848. 
F.  Buchanan,  Speakemf  the  House  of  Representatives  ;  J.  M.  -Anderson,  Speaker 
of  the  Senate. 

"  I  have  cited  the  foregoing  Acts  of  the  Tennessee  Legislature  from  the  origi- 
nals ;  but  the  Journal  of  the  House  of  Representatives  I  have  not  been  able  to  lay 
hands  on.  The  set  of  volumes  in  the  Congressional  Library  hapjiens  to  lack 
1849-50,  and  thi^  volume  is  not  to  be  found  in  the  library  of  the  Supreme  Court 
or  in  that  of  the  State  Department.  My  citation  of  the  report  of  the  committee 
is  therefore  at  second  hand,  from  Mr.  Park's  i)rinted  article  ;  but  this  gentleman 
informs  me  that  he  has  taken  great  ))ains  to  correct  what  is  cited  above,  by 
comparing  a  ]iress-proof  which  I  sent  him  with  a  co|)y  of  the  original  official 
report  in  the  State  I.ilirary  at  Nashvillt- — "carefully  verified,  June  loth,  1893." 
he  savs. 


«„w-^- 


MEMOIR    MERIWETHER    LEWIS. 


lix 


[amend  an  act  to]  establish  the  County  of  Lewis,  the  sum  of 
$500  was  appropriated,  or  so  much  thereof  as  might  be  neces- 
sary, to  preserve  the  place  of  interment  where  the  remains 
of  General  Merriwether  Lewis  were  deposited  ;  and  the 
undersigned  were  appointed  the  agents  of  the  General 
Assembly  to  carry  into  execution  the  provisions  of  the  act, 
and  report  to  the  present  General  Assembly. 

"  Looking  upon  the  object  to  be  accomplished  to  be  one 
highly  honorable  to  the  State,  the  undersigned  entered  upon 
the  duties  assigned  them  most  cheerfully,  and  with  as  little 
delay  as  possible.  They  consulted  with  the  most  eminent 
artists  and  practical  mechanics  as  to  the  kind  of  monument 
to  be  erected,  and  a  plan  being  agreed  upon  they  employed 
Mr.  Lemuel  W.  Kirby,  of  Columbia,  to  execute  it  for  the 
sum  of  five  hundred  dollars. 

"  The  entire  monument  is  twenty  and  a  half  feet  high. 
The  design  is  simple,  but  is  intended  to  express  the  dififi- 
culties,  successes,  and  violent  termination  of  a  life  which 
was  marked  by  bold  enterprise,  by  manly  courage  and 
devoted  patriotism.  The  base  of  the  monument  is  of  rough 
unhewn  stone,  eight  feet  high,  and  nine  feet  square  where 
it  rises  to  the  surface  of  the  ground.  On  this,  rests  a  plinth 
of  cut  stone  four  feet  square,  and  eighteen  inches  in  thick- 
ness [height],  on  which  are  the  inscriptions  which  are 
given  below.  On  this  plinth  stands  a  broken  column 
eleven  feet  high,  two  and  a  half  feet  in  diameter  at 
the  base,  and  a  few  inches  smaller  at  the  top.  The  top 
is  broken  to  denote  the  violent  and  untimely  end  of  a 
bright  and  glorious  career.  The  base  is  composed  of  a 
species  of  sandstone  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
grave.  The  pli'^'th  and  shaft,  or  column,  are  made  of  a  fine 
limestone,  commouly  known  as  Tennessee  marble.  Around 
the  monument  is  erected  a  handsome  wrought-iron  rail  fence. 

"Great  care  was  taken  to  identify  the  grave.  George 
Nixon,  Esq.,  an  old  Surveyor,  had  become  very  early  ac- 
tiuaintcd  with  its  locality.  Me  pointed  out  the  place  ;  but  to 
make  assurance  doubly  sure  the  grave  was  reopened  and  the 


-<***-> 


Ix 


SUPPLEMENT   TO   JEFFERSON'S 


upper  part  of  the  skeleton  examined,  and  such  evidences 
found  as  to  leave  no  doubt  of  the  place  of  interment.  Wit- 
nesses were  called  and  their  certiticatc,  with  that  of  the  Sur- 
veyor, prove  the  fact  beyond  dispute. 

"  The  inscription  upon  the  plinth  was  furnished  by  Prof. 
Nathaniel  Cross,  of  the  University  of  Nashville.  It  is 
beautiful  and  appropriate.  It  is  placed  on  the  different 
sides  of  the  plinth,  and  is  as  follows : ' 

[west  face.] 

MERKIWETIIKK  LEWIS, 

Born  near  Charlottesville,  N'irgiiiia,  August  l8,  1774, 

Died  October  11,  1809,  aged  35  years. 

[south   F.VCE.] 

An  officer  of  the  Rejjular  Army — Commander  of  the  Expedition  to 

the  Oregon  in  1803-180O — Oovernor  of  the  Territory  of 

Louisiana — His  melancholy  death  occurred 

where  this  monument  now  stands, 

and  under  which  rest  his 

mortal  remains. 


[east  face.] 

In  the  language  of  Mr.  Jefferson  :   '  I  lis  courage  was  undaunted 

ness  and  |)erseverance  yielded  to  nothing  hut  imixwsihilities  . 

rigid  disciplinarian,  yet  tender  as  a  father  of  those  coni- 

mittc<l  to  his  charge  ;  honest,  disinterested, 

liberal,  with  a  sound  understanding 

and  a  scrupulous  fidelity 

to  truth.' 

[north  face.] 
Immaturus  obi  :  sed  tu   felicior  unnos 
Vive  mcos.  Bona  Respublica  !  Vive  tuos. 


His  tirm- 
A 


Erected  by  the  Legislature  of  Tennessee. 
A.  I).  1848. 

'  In  attempting  to  reproduce  these  inscriptions  as  co  '-d  by  Mr.  Park  from 
the  stone,  certain  errors  which  appear  in  the  printed  re)  ;  are  ignored.  The 
worst  of  these  is  the  wrong  date  of  Oct.  "  17  "  instea<l  of  11.  Lewis'  Christian 
name  is  misspelled  both  on  stone  and  on  paper.  The  Latin  word  Respublica 
is  also  misspelled  "  Rcpublica  "  in  the  report.  The  alignment  here  presented 
is  not  exactly  true  to  the  stone,  but  gives  the  same  general  effect  to  the  eye. 


MEMOIR  OF  mp:riwkther  lewis. 


Ixi 


"In  the  Latin  distich,  many  of  your  honorable  body  will 
no  doubt  recognize  as  the  affecting  epitaph  on  the  tomb  of 
a  young  wife,  in  which,  by  ^prosopopoeia  [j/V— read  proso- 
popcL'ia],  after  alluding  to  her  immature  death,  she  prays  that 
her  happier  husband  may  live  out  her  year  and  his  own: 

' '  Immatiita  peri  :  sed  tti  fclUior  aiiuos 
Vive  iiu'os,  iOiiJHX  optiinc  !   Vizv  iitos. 

"  Under  the  same  figure  the  deceased  is  represented,  in  the 
Latin  distich  as  altered,  after  alluding  to  his  early  death,  as 
uttering  as  a  patriot  a  similar  prayer,  that  the  republic  may 
fulfill  her  high  destiny,  and  that  her  years  may  equal  those 
of  time.  As  the  distich  now  stands,  the  figure  may  be 
made  to  apply,  either  to  the  whole  Union,  or  to  Tennessee 
that  has  honored  his  memory  by  the  erection  of  a  monu- 
ment. 

"The  impression  has  long  prevailed  that  under  the  influ- 
ence of  disease  of  body  and  mind — of  hopes  based  upon 
long  and  valuable  services — not  merely  deferred  but  wholly 
disappointed — Governor  Lewis  perished  by  his  own  hands. 
It  :;eems  to  be  more  probable  that  he  died  by  the  hands  of 
an  assassin.  The  place  at  which  he  was  killed  is  even  yet 
a  lonely  spot.  It  was  then  wild  and  solitary,  and  on  the 
borders  of  the  Indian  nation.  Maj.  C.  L.  Clark,'  a  son  of 
Governor  Clark,  of  Missouri,  in  a  letter  to  the  Rev.  Mr, 
Cressey,  of  Maury  Co.,  says:  '  Have  you  ever  heard  of  the 
report,  that  Governor  Lewis  did  not  destroy  his  own  life,  but 
was  murdered  by  his  servant,  a  Frenchman,  who  stole  his 
money  and  horses,  returned  to  Natchez,  and  was  never  after- 
wards heard  of  ?  This  is  an  important  matter  in  connec- 
tion with  the  erection  of  a  monument  to  his  memory,  as  it 
clei'rly  removes  from  my  mind,  at  least,  the  only  stigma  upon 
the  fair  name  I  have  the  honor  to  bear.' 

"  The  undersigned  would  suggest  to  the  General  Assembly 
the  propriety  of  having  an  acre  of  ground,  or  some  other 

'Misprint  or  otlur  mistake  for  M.  1-.  Clark,  »'.«•.,  Meriwether  Lewis  Clark, 
eldest  son  of  William  Clark  bv  his  first  wife. 


I 


'      \ 


, 


■  I    Mil.   '     VI 


mii^jiSc  ■'  .' .  .  •; — :."-'  • 


Ixii 


SUPPI-EMENT  TO  JEFFERSON  S   MEMOIR. 


reasonable  quantity,  around  the  grave,  secured  against  the 
entry  of  private  persons.  This  can  be  done  either  by 
reserving  the  title  in  the  State,  or  by  directing  a  grant  to 
issue  in  the  name  of  the  governor  and  his  successors  in 
office.  The  first  mode  would  probably  be  the  best. 
"  All  of  which  is  respectfully  submitted. 

"Edmund  Dili..\hunty, 
"  b.^rclav  m.vrtin, 
"  RoKERT  A.  Smith, 
"  Samuel  B.  Moore," 


At  the  time  of  Mr.  Park's  visit  to  the  grave,  November 
2 1st,  1889,  the  base  of  the  monument  was  somewhat  moss- 
grown,  the  inscriptions  on  the  plinth  were  scarcely  legible, 
and  the  iron  fence  was  nearly  all  gone.  It  is  said  that  the 
iron  was  taken  away  during  the  War  of  the  Rebellion  to 
make  horseshoes,  as  the  production  of  iron  was  then  almost 
entirely  suspended  in  the  South.  The  acre  reserved  around 
the  monument  has  since  become  "  God's  Acre "  indeed, 
where  rest  the  remains  of  one  of  his  noblest  works,  albeit 
now  indistinguishable  from  humbler  dust  in  a  common 
burying-ground.  "  Far  out  in  the  native  forest,  on  the  high- 
lands, with  no  human  dwelling  near,  it  is  indeed  a  lonely  spot, 
where  the  wild  deer  and  the  fox  are  still  pursued  by  the 
hunter's  hounds.  The  existence  of  such  a  grave  and  monu- 
ment is  scarcely  known  outside  of  the  State,  and  to  but  few 
anywhere  of  the  present  generation.  Teimessee  would  be 
loath  to  give  up  the  honored  dust  which  has  slept  in  her 
bosom  for  more  than  eiglUy  years ;  but  would  it  not  be  a 
graceful,  if  too  long  neglected,  act,  should  Congress  authorize 
the  erection  of  an  appropriate  monument  of  bronze  at  the 
national  capital,  to  the  memory  of  the  accomplished  .'-oldier 
and  scientist  who  led  the  first  expedition  through  the 
unknown  gateways  of  the  mountains  to  the  Pacific,  and  the 
mystery  of  whose  untimely  end  will  perhaps  never  be 
solved  ?  " 


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MEMOIR  OF  WILLIAM  CLARK. 

BY   DR.   COUES. 

Wt:  possess  a  genealogy  of  that  Clark  family  of  which 
William  is  the  most  illustrious  member,  from  about  the  begin- 
ning of  the  last  century  to  the  present  clay.  In  the  early  part 
of  the  eighteenth  century,  John  Clark  ist  and  Miss  or  Mrs. 
Kurd  resided  in  King  and  Queen  Co..  Va.  They  married, 
and  were  William's  grandparents.  Their  children  were  John 
2d,  Benjamin,  and  Elizabeth. 

John  Clark  2d,  b.  K.  and  Q.  Co.,  Va.,  Oct.  20th,  1724, 

d.   Mulberry   Hill,   Ky.,  Aug.—,  1799- aged   75  years;  and 

Ann   Rogers,  b.  K.  and  Q.  Co.,  Va.,  Oct.  20th,  1734,  d.  at 

Mulberry  Hill,  Ky.,  Dec.  24th,  1798,  aged  64  years;  were 

married  in  K.  and  Q.  Co.    Va.,   in   1749,  lived  together  49 

years,  and  were  William's  parents.     They  had  the  following 

six  sons  and  four  daughters  : 

I.Jonathan:    b.    Albemarle    Co.,    Va.,    Aug.    1st,    1750; 

d.   Mulberry  Hill,  Ky.,  in   1816.      He  married   Sarah 

Hite,  by  whom  he  had  four  sons  and  two  daughters. 

2.  George  Rogers  ist :  b.  Albemarle  Co.,  Va.,  Nov.   19th, 

1752;  d.  Locust  Grove,  Ky.,  p-eb.  13th.  1818.  aged  66 
years,  and  was  buried  there.  He  never  married.  He 
was  the  most  distinguished  member  of  his  family  until 
his  fame  was  shaded  by  the  greater  renown  to  which 
William  attained.  George  Rogers  and  William  held 
several  positions  of  the  same  military  or  civic  title, 
and  hence  have  been  sometimes  confused.  When 
"  the  brother"  of  William  is  mentioned  in  annals,  etc., 
George  Rogers  is  generally  meant. 

3.  Ann:  b.   Caroline  Co.,  Va.,   July    14th,    1755;  married 

Owen  Gwathmey,  Oct.  25th,   1773;  had  five  sons  and 

Ixiii 


■-*•' 


^^i^MI 


IXIV 


MK.MOIK    oi'    WILLIAM    CLAKK. 


five  (lauplitcrs ;  tl.  in  1822,  ajjcd  66  years,  at  Locust 
Grove,  Ky. 

4.  John  jii :  b.  Caroline  Co.,  Va.,  Sept.  15th,  1757  ;  d.  Oct. 

17th,  1783,  atjed  26;  never  married  ;  was  "  imprisoned 
by  liritish  durini;  war  five  years  on  Lonfj  Island."  (So 
family  bible  :  but  see  next  parat;raph.) 

5.  Richard:  b.  Cari)line   Co.,   V.i.,   July  6tli,   1760;  never 

married;  lost  in  l<'eb.  or  Mar.,  1785,  aped  25  years; 
"supposed  to  have  been  killed  by  Indians  at  I.ittic 
Wabash."  (So  family  bible  ;  some  obscurity  and  con- 
fusion of  record  rej^ardinfr  Richard  and  John  3d. 
Another  account,  furnished  to  Mr.  Jefferson  K.  Clark 
by  his  cousin,  Mrs.  Caroline  OTallon  Pope,  states 
that  Richard,  a  lieutenant  in  the  Continental  army, 
was  captured  at  Germantown,  I'a.,  and  died  in  a 
pri.son-ship  at  New  York,  in  1783;  and  that  John, 
a  captain  in  the  army,  was  killed  by  Indians  on  the 
Wabash  in  1785.) 

6.  Edmund  ist :    b.  Caroline   Co.,  Va.,  Sept.  25th,   1762; 

d.  Louisville,  Ky.,  in  1817,  ajjcd  55  years;  never  mar- 
ried ;  was  an  army  officer  with  rank  of  captain,  left  out 
when  the  army  was  reduced. 

7.  Lucy:  b.  Cartjline  Co.,  Va.,  Sept.  15th,   1765;  married 

William  Croijhan  ;  liad  five  sons  and  two  daughters; 
d.  at  Locust  Grove,  near  Louisville,  Ky.,  Mar.  4th, 
1837  or  1838. 

"^.Elizabeth:  b.  Caroline  Co.,  Va.,  Feb.  iith,  1768; 
married  Colonel  Richard  Clough  Anderson ;  had  one 
son  and  three  daughters;  died  in  1795,  aged  27  years. 

9-  William:  b.  Caroline  Co.,  Va.,  Aug.  ist,  1770;  mar- 
ried (!)  Julia  Hancock,  at  Fincastle,  Va.,  Jan.  5th, 
1808;  she  died  at  Fotheringay,  Va.,  June  27th,  1820, 
leaving  four  sons  and  one  daughter;  he  married  (2) 
Harriet  Kennerly  (b.  Fincastle,  July  25th,  1788, 
widow  of  Dr.  John  Radford),  at  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  Nov. 
28th,  1821  ;  she  died  there  Dec.  25th,  1 831,  leaving  two 
sons  and  one  daughter  by  Dr.  Radford,  and  one  son 


MEMoik    (11     WIIIIAM    CIAKK 


iKir 


living  (one  having  died)  by  William  Clark  ;  he  died  at 
St.  Louis,  Mo.,  at  the  residence  of  liis  >,on,  Meriwether 
Lewis  1st.  Sept.  1st.  1838.  and  was  buried  at  Athlonc, 
from  the  residence  of  Colonel  J.  { )"Kall(.n.  near  St.  Louis. 
10.  Fnincis,  commonly  called  luunty ;  b.  Caroline  Co.,  Va., 
Jan.  j(  ill.  17;};  m.irried  (i|  in  17^0,  ij,-.  James 
O'Fallon  (b.  .Athlone.  Ireland  ;  d.  Louisville,  Ky..  1793), 
(2)  Charles  AL  Tluustt)n.  (3)  Dennis  iMtzluiKh  :  Iiiid 
(l)  tw.)  chiklren.  J.,lin  and  Benjamin:  (2)  ft.ur  chil- 
dren  ;  ( ;,  1  one  child;  liied  at  St.  Louis,  Mo.  Her 
eldest  Sun,  John,  acquired  the  title  of  colonel  in  tlie 
milit.iry  service,  fron)  which  he  resij^'ned  in  July, 
1818;  he  survived  till  Dec.  17th,  1865,  in  business  in 
St.  F.DLiis. 


Re^rartlin^r  Wilham's  first  wife's  family,  we  have  the  fol- 
lowing <;enealo^'y ; 

Robert   Hancock  (son  of   R(,bert  I  lancck),  b.  Mar.  2:;(l, 
l/ii  ;   Kdw.ird  ist.  b.  June   juth,  1713  ;   Din.di   or  Diana,  b! 

Jan.  r4tli,    1717.  married;   Patterson,  b. .  liatl   no  heirs  ; 

William,  b.  M.iy  30th,  1720;  George-  jsf,  b.  July  22d.  17-4,' 
married  M.uy  J..nes;  Thomas,  b.  Oct.  15th.  1727.  lost  at 
sea;  Joshua,  b.  i-Yb.  9th.  1729,  l,,st  at  sea.  Li  the  ne.xt 
{^^eneration  :  Kdward  3d,  s,,n  of  Georp^^c  Hancock  1st  and 
Mary  Jones  his  wife,  b.  Mar.  8.  1752.  in  M.^ntL^omery  Co., 
Va.;  Giorgc- jj.  b.  June  13th.  1754.  d.  at  Fotherin^MV.  Va.! 
July  i.Sth,  1S20;  Auf,nistus.  b.  Oct.  14th.  1756,  d.  in  the 
army  ;  M.ny,  b.  Nov.  4th.  1759,  married  ( 1  i  Mr.  Rayford.(2) 
Samuel  Kennerly. 

George  2d,  above,  married  at  I-'incastle.  Va.,  Sept.  iSth, 
17^1^.  lV,-t,T  Strother  (dau.  of  Mary  Keiiiurly  Strother,' 
b.  Sei)t.  loth.  1746.  married  (  i )  Geor^^e  Strother  of  Cul- 
pepper  Co..  Va..  (2)  Patrick  Lnckhart.  who  d.  at  Fincastle, 
Va..  in  iSof);  d.  at  Fotheriny.iy.  Va.,  June  2d,  1830),  who 
was  b.  Sept.  lC)t]i,  1763. 

The  children  of  Geor-c  2d  and  Peggy  Strother  hi.s  wife, 
were  : 


•■*ii- 


wrm 


ma 


m^mmmm 


Ixvi 


MEM(^IR    OV   WIl.I.IAM    CI. ARK. 


I.  Mary,  b.  Friday,  Feb.  I4tli,  1783  ;  married  J.  D.  Griffin  ; 
d.  Apr.  26th,  1826,  leaving  throe  sons  and  one  daughter. 
?.  Caroline,  b.  Saturday,  Mar.  j6th,  1785  ;  married  Wm. 
r  jston  ;  d.  at  Louisville,  Ky.  i.Jolin  Strothcr,  b.  Sunday, 
Mar.  25th,  1787;  d.  Aug.  2d,  1795.  4.  Julia,  also  called 
Judith,  b.  Monday,  Nov.  21st,  1791  ;  niairied  William 
Clark,  Jan.  5th,  1808,  at  Fincastle,  Va.;  d.  at  Fotheringaj-, 
Va.,  June  27th,  1820,  leaving  four  sons  and  one  daughter. 
5.  George  Jid,  b.  Good  Friday,  Apr.  6th,  1798;  married  (i)  F.. 
Croghan  (dau.  of  Wm.  Cn^ghan  and  Lucy  Clark,  of  Locust 
Grove),  \2)  Mary  Davidson,  of  New  Orleano,  Miss. 


The  children  of  vVilliam  Clark  and  J  alia  Hancock  his  first 
wife,  were  : 

1.  Meriwether  Lewis  isf  .■  b.  St.  Louis  Mo.,  Jan.  lOth,  1809  ; 

married  (i)  Abby  Churcli  11,  Louisville,  Ky.,  Jan.  9th, 
1834;  he  died  at  Frankfort,  Ky.,  Oct.  28th,  1881.  His 
first  x/c  was  b.  Louisville,  Ky.,  Mar.  9th,  1817;  d.  St. 
Lcjis,  Jan.  14th,  185?.  Tlic.r  children  were:  William 
Hancock,  b.  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  Dec.  25th,  1S39,  "'^^^'  hving; 
Samuel  Churchill,  b.  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  Sepi.  I2th,  1843, 
killed  in  battle  of  Elk  Horn,  at  I'ea  Ridi^e,  Ark.,  com'd'g 
the  Clark  battery,  i  )  a.  m..  Mar.  8th,  1862,  buried  at 
Fort  Smith,  Ark.;  Mary  Eli/.a,  b.  St.  Louis,  ]\I().,  May 
31st,  1845,  d.  Spring(iro\e,  K\'.,  May,  1847  ;  Meriwether 
Lewis  2d,  b.  Louisville  Ky.,  Jan.  27th,  1846,  living- 
John  O'Fallon  2d,  b.  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  July  7th,  1848,  d. 
Frankf(Mt,  Kv.,  Feb.,  186;,  killed  bv  accidental  discharge 
of  a  pistol  in  hands  of  a  schoolmate  at  Sayre  Institute  ; 
George  Rogers  2d,  b.  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  Apr.  19th,  18^0, 
(I.  of  yellow  fever  at  (.ireenville.  Miss.;  Charles  Jeffer- 
son, b.  St.  Loui ;,  Mo.,  Jan.  lotli,  1S52.  living.  .Meri- 
wether Lewis  1st  married  (2)  Julia  Davidson,  at  Louis- 
ville, Ky.,  Dec.  30th,  1865  ;  she  was  b.  in  New  Orleans, 
La..  July  8th,  1826,  and  is  living  ;  they  had  no  issue. 

2.  JJ''i//i,tin    Pres/oii :    b.    St.    Louis.    Mo.,    (^ct,    5th,    1811; 


1  ■' 

I 


MKMOIR    ()!.•    WILLIAM    CLARK. 


Ixvii 


never  married  ;  d.  there,  ,suddeiil>-,  of  heart  disease,  May 
i6th,  1840;  buried  at  Athlone. 
3.  Mary  Margaret :  b.  St.   Louis.,  Mo.,  Jan.  1st,  18 14;  d.  at 
ear   Middletown,  Ky.,  Oct.  15th,  1821  ; 


Mrs.  Preston's,  n 
buried  at  Mulberry  Hill 


near  Louisvi 


4.  George  Rogers  Hancock :  b.  St.  L 


lie,  Ky. 


ouis,  Mo.,  May  6th,  18 16; 
married  there  Ellenor  Ann  or  Eleanor  Ann  Glasgow, 
Tuesday,  Mar.  30th,  1841.     Their  children  were:  Julia, 
b.  St.  Louis,  3  a.  m.,  Friday,  Mar.  6th,  1842  ;  Sarah,  Sadie, 
or  Seddie  Lconida,  b.  there  2  a.  m.,  Oct.  6th,   1843,  d. 
Dec.    i8th,  1864;  John  O'Fallo.i   ist,  b.  there  3  p.' m., 
Dec.  17th,  1844;  Ellen  Glasgow,  b.  there  3  p.  m.,  Jan. 
22d,  1846.     He  died  Sept.  29th,  1858.  at  the  residence 
of  his  half-brother,  Jefferson  K.  Clark,  at  Minoma,  St 
Louis  Co.,  Mo.,  in  his  43d  year,  and  was  buried  Oct.  2d, 
1858,  in  Bellefontainc  cemetery. 
S.  John  Julius:  b.  St.  Louis.  Iulv6th,  1818  ;  d.  there  Sept 
5th.  1831. 
The  children  of  William  Clark  and  his  second  wife,  Mrs. 
Harriet   Kennerly'  Radford   (widow  of   Dr.  John  Radford), 
who  were  married  at  St.  Louis,  Nov.  28th,  1821,  were: 
I.    Thomas  Jcfcrson  ox  Jefferson  Kearny,  b.  St.  Louis,  Mo., 
Feb.    29th,   1824;' married  Mary  Susan  Glasgow' (dau.' 
of  William  Glasgow,  Sr.)  there,  May  8th,   1849:  both 
are  living  there  now  (1893). 
2.  Ednnmd  jj,  b.  St.  Louis,  Sept.  9th,  1826;  d.  there,  Aug. 
I2th.  1827. 


•H.,-net  kennerly  (b.  Fi„c:,stle,  V,i.,  July  25.h,  ,788,  .1.  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  Pec,  jjih.  .3,,) 
.ind  John  Radfora  were  n.rrie.l  .u  Fincustle,  V;,.,  Uec.  2yi,  ,806.  He  was  born  there  J.in 
=  S.h,  .738.  Their  children  w,.-re:  \Villi.,m,  b.  Sept.  „th,  1807;  Mary  P.,  b.  Mar.  5th,  t3..(who 
marn-d  Gen.  S.  W.  Kearney)  ;  John  D.,  h.  June  6th,  iS.fi  fwho  married  Sophia  Menard 
of  Kaskaskia,  111.).  W.lban.  Ciaik's  two  wives  were  tirst  consins,  being  respectively  children 
of  a  brother  and  a  s,ster-the  last  bein^.  a  sister  of  James  and  GeorRe  H    Kennerly 

'The  year  ",4,  in  which  Mr.  JelTLrson  K.  Clark  was  burn,  w.a.s  memorable  in  the  annals  of 
M.ssonn,  the  .nen  youngest  State  in  the  Union,  and  about  to  participate  for  the  lirsi  time  in  a 
presidential  election.  It  was  the  closing  year  of  the  .administration  of  our  first  five  Presidents 
of  Rev,.lntl,.nary  stock  or  connection,  and  was  marked  by  a  visit,  after  .m  interval  of  4  ,  ye  irs 
from  one  who  had  strenuously  .issiste.l  in  the  striiREle  f.ir  in.leprndence-Gener.d  Lafayette 

'I  be  late  Admiral  Radford,  \J.  8.  N.  .formerly  owner  of  the  house  .726  N  St  ,  Wasl  Mi^toi. 
IX  C.,  .n  which  I  now  reside),  was  a  half-Uother  of  Mr.  J.  K.  Clark,  being  a  son  of  Will,.ani 
Clark  s  second  wife  by  her  first  loisb.uul. 


J 


l.wiu 


MEMOIR    (IF    WII  IIAM    Cl.AKK. 


The  foregoing  data  for  five  generations  are  derived  in  part 
from  records  in  tlie  family  bible  of  George  Rogers  Hancock- 
Clark,  copied  Oct.  1st,  iSSi,  by  Frederick  L.  Billon,  of  St. 
Louis,  ami  l.itcly  secured  from  him  :  in  part  from  William 
Hancock  Clark,  who  at  my  request  obligingly  prepared  and 
furnished  a  tabular  statement  of  the  lineal  issue  of  William 
Cl.uk,  living  and  dead  at  the  present  date  of  July,  1893. 
This  genealogical  cliart,  inchuling  two  more  generations,  is 
published  on  a  separate  folding  sheet  with  this  work. 


William  Clark's  parents  resided  in  Albemarle  Co.,  Va.. 
until  their  two  eldest  children  had  been  born  ;  when,  in 
'754.  tbi-y  removed  t..  the  vicinity  of  Charlottesville,  Caro- 
line Co..  in  the  same  State,  where  all  their  other  children 
first  saw  the  light.'  In  17S4,  or  about  that  year,  when 
V.  illiam  was  14  years  old,  they  mo\-ed  again  to  what  was 
then  c.dlcd  the  Falls  of  the  Ohio,  now  Louisville,  Kv. 
Their  place  of  resitlence  w.is  known  as  Mulberry  Hill. 
Louisville  at  that  time  consisted  merely  of  a  few  cabins 
clustered  about  a  fortification  which  had  been  erected  by 
his  elder  brother.  George  Rogers  Clark. 

William  received  his  first  title  or  distinction  of  any  sort 
while  yet  a  mere  lad,  being  made  a  member  of  the  Society  of 
the  Cincinnati  on  March  ist.  1787,  before  he  had  completed 
his  seventeenth  year.  His  original  certificate  of  member- 
ship is  e.xtant  :  it  bears  the  signatures  of  George  Washing- 
ton, President,  and  General  Henry  Kno.K.  Secretary.  His 
first  military  title  was  that  of  Ensign  L^  S.  A.,  to  which 
grade  he  was  appointed  in  I7S(S.  On  the  8th  of  January, 
1790,  he  received  the  following  commission,  which  is  curious 
enough  to  be  presented  in  full.  I  copy  from  a  careful  copy 
of  the  original : 


'  rir.  W.  C.  X.  Kandolph,  ^on  of  Prtsiiletit  Jerterscin's  executor,  writes  to  me  from 
Charlnitrsville.  Va.,  ,i.Kl.-r  .l,,le  ..(  I.ui,  ,  itli,  iSg,,  that  the  h.qi^e  in  ivliidi  William  was  born 
was  sittiateil  within  a  mile  and  .i  hall  from  that  town:  aiul  th.it  the  exact  spot  is  identifiable, 
llioiii;h  the  haildiiii:  has  di.sa|i|)earcil. 


MLMOIK   (JF    WILLIAM    CLARK. 


Ixix 


Territory  of  tJw 

U  M  IK  I)  Stat  e.s 

Korth  Wist  of  the 

Riru-r  Ohio 


\  ScU 


r.v  HIS  r.XCELLEXCV 

ARTHUR  Si    CLAIR  Esq  ; 

Governor  an.l  Comxuuider    in   Chief  of  the    Territory  of  the     United    States 
Xorth    West  of  the  River  Ohio 

To  William  Clark  Es'iuire  Greeting 

^  Vou  liein}^  appointed  a  Captain  of  Militia  in  the  Town  >S;  vicinity  of  Clarks- 
viile— By  Virtue  of  the  Lower  vested  in  nie,  I  do  l)y  these  presents  (reposing 
Special  Trust  and  Conlideiice  in  vour  Loyalty,  Couras,'e  and  ( iood  Conduct) 
con- .-nission  you  acconiin^dy— Vou  are  therefore  carefully  and  .liligently  to  dis- 
chc:ge  the  Duty  of  a  Captain  in  leading,  ordering  and  exercising  said  Militia  in 
Arms,  both  Inferior  Oliicers  and  Soldiers  ;  and  to  keep  them  in  g.M>d  Order  and 
Discipline.  And  they  are  hereby  commanded  to  obey  you  as  their  Captain,  and 
you  are  yourself  to  observe  and  follow  such  Orders  anrl  Instructions  as  you  sliall 
from  'lime  to  Time  receive  from  me  or  your  Su[)erior  Ofllcets 

Given  under  my  Hand,  and  the  Seal  of  the  Said  Territory  of  the  Ur.lted  States, 
the  eighth.layof  January  in  the  Vear  of  our  Lord  ly-jo  and  of  the  Independ- 
ence of  the  United  States  of  America,  the  fourteenth 

Ar  St  Cl.Aiu 

By  His  Excellency's  Command 

WiMiiRoi'  Sargknt  Secretary 

Captain  Clark  was  commissioned  as  a  lieutenant  of  infantry, 
March  7th,  1791,  and  assijjjned  to  the  fourtli  Sub-Legion, 
Sept.  4th,  179^.  While  holdino-  this  rank,  at  the  dat'c  of 
March  19th,  1793,  he  acted  as  adjutant  and  quarterinaster. 
We  find  him  on  sick-leave  in  1795,  and  July  ist,  1796,  he 
resigned  from  the  army  on  account  of  ill-health/ 

•  We  htir  ,,f  ,„ie  W,i;i,„n  Cl.irk  in  lmsi,ie<s  connections  in  St.  Louis  about  this  tim^  It  is 
of  pul.l.c  recorj,  M.,y  ,  ,th,  170?,  Solomon  Link  to  Willi.ini  Cl.uk,  for  $70  c.ish,  a  lot  150  ft 
squ.ire,  w,tl.  ,,  lo«  houso,  in  the  village  of  .\Iar.ils  <les  Liards  (Owens  Station,  now  Bridgton), 
bounded  by  John  Hddeor.nd  .^n\  Joseph  Williams  on  two  sides,  on  the  other  two  sides  streets  ■ 
and  I,a.ic  Hildel>rand  to  Wm.  Clark,  for  $.0,  a  lot  ,53  ft.  s.,„are.  bounded  by  David  Hilde- 
brand  and  Wm.  Cla:k,  and  by  two  streets  ;  also,  about  the  same  dale,  Wm.  Clark  to  CreRoire 
Sjrpy,  of  St.  Louis,  montage  f,>r  $128.50  on  above,  etc.  It  is  likewise  of  record,  July  5th 
.Sc,  concession  by  Gov.  i:)elas,us  to  Willian,  Ci.irk  of  .s^«  arpents  of  land,  unlocated,  and 
some  other  transactions  connected  with  this  property,  etc.  lint  tlih  Willia.ni  Clark  was 
another  per,on  ol  the  same  name,  sometime  of  Port.igc  des  Sioii.v.  The  subject ..(  ,1,U  memoir 
became  in  due  course  a  sort  of  sun-god  in  the  myths  of  the  West,  and  like  another  Hercules 
absorbed  various  tr.nlition  that  lacked  lixity  of  time,  place,  and  circumstance  rhe  most 
rem.arkable  instu.ce  tl,  u  has  come  to  my  knowledge  is  that  of  one  William  CI  .rk  who,  though 
he  bcc- am- a  ju  Ige  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  his  Stale,  has  thus  f..r  completely,  and  perhaps 
perm.uienlly.  best  his  identity.     The  s,,:netime  .issociation  of  thi,    Iud.;e  Clark  with  George 


Ixx 


MK.MOIK    OF    WILLIAM    CLAKK. 


The  yea-  1803  saw  the  beginning  of  Captain  Clark's  real 
career,  to  which  previous  events  of  his  life  merely  led  up. 
His  friend,  Meriwether  Lewis,  at  this  time  President  Jeffer- 
son's private  secretary,  who  as  an  ensign  had  at  one  time 
served  under  Captain  Clark's  orders,  desired  his  association 
on  equal  terms  in  the  conduct  of  tlic  Expedition  then  about 
to  be  sot  on  foot.  Captain  Clark  assented,  and  the  two 
young  officers  entered  into  those  relations  which  linked 
their  names  forever.'"  It  is  commonly  said  tl-.at  Captain 
Clark  re-entered  the  regular  army  under  these  circum- 
stances in  1803.  It  is  also  said  in  Jefferson's  Memoir  of 
Lewis,  antch,  that  he  was  commissioned  as  a  captain. 
These  are  mistakes.  The  commission  he  received  was  that 
of   second    lieutenant,  Corps   of   Artillerists,    and    not   the 


Rogers  Cl.irk  (brother  of  our  William),  as  trustees  of  a  certain  town,  tended  to  promote  this 
confusion.  On  looking  up  this  case,  I  fitui  the  date  to  be  when  William  was  about  13  years 
old,  and  therefore  not  likely  to  li.ivc  been  the  trustee  of  anything  more  than  the  contents  of  a 
Ijoy's  pockets.  Item,  I  find  among  the  .MS.  Ctarkiai.a  ia  my  possession  that  t.n  March  3d, 
1801,  William  Clark.  Henry  Vand.'rburg,  and  John  C'.ritTin,  judges  appointed  by  Gov.  W.  H. 
Harrison,  of  the  newly  organized  Indiana  rcrritory,  held  tllcir  first  tcrnt  at  Vincennes.  Here 
again  is  no  doubt  tlie  lost  yH^Av  H'iiliam  Clark.  Item,  one  of  our  best  biographical  cyclo- 
pedias has  a  short  notice  of  th's  jurist,  in  which  I  tliink  some  matters  pertaining  to  Gencril 
Clark  arc  involved. 

^  .-\s  a  matter  of  curious  history,  perhaps  known  to  no  other  person  at  the  moment  of  my 
penning  this  note,  I  will  cite  the  fact  that  in  July,  1803,  it  looked  as  if  "  Lewis  and  Clark  ''  was 
going  to  be  "  Lewis  and  Hook,"  or  "  Hooke."  Captain  Lewis  had  extended  his  invitation  to 
Captain  Clark,  and  h.ul  received  no  answer.  Mails  were  infiei;uent  and  irregular  in  those  days  ; 
no  doubt  Captain  Clark  took  time  tt)  sleep  over  the  proposition  ;  but  delays  sc-nied  dangerous 
if  not  fatal,  to  Captain  Lewis'  ardent  imagination,  already  at  a  white  heat  of  most  puissant 
purpose.  He  h.id  actually  sought  a  substi'ute,  in  anticipation  ctf  Captain  Clark's  declination, 
when  he  penned  the  letter,  now  forming  Doc.  No.  loi.  Jeff.  Papers  L,  ad  ser..  Vol.  51,  of  which 
the  following  are  some  extracts  : 

Pittsburgh  July  26th.  1803. 
Dear  Sir, 

1  have  rrcieved  as  yet  no  answer  from  Mr.  Clark  ;  in  the  event  of  Mr.  Clark's  declining  to 
accompany  me  Li'ut  Hooke  of  this  place  has  engaged  to  do  so,  if  permitted  ;  and  I  think  froin 
his  disposition  and  qualificaiions  that  1  might  safely  calculate  on  being  .as  .ably  assisted  by  him 
in  the  execution  of  the  obj«*<.ts  of  my  mission,  as  I  could  wish,  or  would  be,  by  any  other  officer 
in  the  Army.  Lieut  Hoohe  is  about  26  years  of  .ige,  [etc. J  .  .  .  Should  I  recieve  no  answer 
from  Mr.  Claik  pievious  to  my  leavi-g  this  plate,  or  he  decline  going  with  me,  I  would  be 
much  gr.uifyed  with  being  ;'.uthori;'::d  to  t.ike  Lieut.  Hooke  with  me,  [etc.]  ...  If  Lieut. 
Hooke  sets  out  twenty  days  -ifter  nic,  by  t. iking  the  rout  of  Limestone,  Loiosville  and  \"in- 
cennes,  Se  will  reach  the  mouth  of  the  Missourie  as  early  as  I  shall. 

1  am  with  the  most  sincere  att.ichnient 

Your  Obt.  Servt, 

Meiiwether  Lewis. 
The  Presidtut  of  ihe 

United  States. 


fc 


MEMOIR    MK    WILLIAM    CLARK.  Ixxi 

captaincy  of  En<,nncers  he  had  been  led  to  expect.  The 
date  of  this  coinmi.ssion  was  March  26th,  1804;  his  routine 
promotion  to  a  first  lieutenantcy  came  Jan.  31st,  1806.  It 
will  be  recollected  that  his  title  was  already  that  of  captain, 
from  prior  military  service;  but  during  that  Expedition! 
which  was  to  convert  all  possible  titles  into  sounding  brass,' 
his  actual  rank  in  the  arm'^  was  that  of  a  subaltern.  On 
this  point,  once  a  matter  oi  some  delicacy,  now  simply  a 
question  of  historical  accur.^cy,  I  am  fortunately  able  to  sink 
the  biographer  in  the  autobiographer.  We  will  hear  what 
Captain  Clark  once  had  to  say  on  the  subject  himself. 

In  the    extensive    unpublished   C  rk-Biddle  correspond- 
ence,   mainly  relating   to    the    History  of    the  Expedition 
obligingly  placed  in  :uy  hands  by  Judge  Craig  Riddle,  of 
Philadelphia,  son  of  Nicholas  Biddle,  Esq.,  I   find   the  fol- 
lowing two  letters  : 

DrSir.  I'hiK  Julys.  1811 

[A  page  about  engraving,  etc.,  and  then  :]  There  is  one  and  only  one 
more  thing  about  -.vhich  I  wi>h  you  would  give  me  ., .formation.  It  is  the  e.xact 
relative  situation  in  point  of  rank  and  command  between  Captain  Lewis  and 
yourself.  I  think  you  mentioned  to  me  that  vour  commission  was  that  of  I  ieu 
tenant  of  Engineers  [rea.l  of  Artillerists],  which  place.l  you  completely  on  an 
e.pialny  witli  Cap.tain  Lewis  who  was  a  Captain  of  Infantry  or  Artillery  [the  for- 
mer], and  that  in  all  other  respects  you  were  e(]ual  in  ':omma,id.  I  am  desirous 
of  being  correct  and  I  will  get  you  to  state  to  me  whether  I  have  understood 
you  j.recisely,  so  as  to  avoid  all  errors  on  that  subject.  With  my  Compts  tc 
Mrs.  Clarke  \nc\  I  remain  yrs  sincerel/ 
Genl  William  Clarke  [..^  '  N[:cho!as].  L[iddle]. 

.St  Louis 

Upper  Louisiana 


Dear  Sir, 


St  Louis  15th    .-.ugust  181 1 

Ky  the  last  mail  I  ha.l  the  honor  of  receiving  your  letter  of  the 
8th,  of  July,  which  I  do  .assure  y„u  gave  me  much  pleasure  ;  as  well  to  hear 
from  you  .as  to  learn  th.it  you  li.ad  got  thro'  ,he  work,  and  had  it  re.a.lv  for  the 
press  as  soon  as  Mr.  C.nrad  pleased.  I  hope  Mr.  C.  is  getting  it  in  a  state  of 
forw.irdness,-I  feel  convinced  that  your  arrangement  of  the  Map  is  a  good  one, 
f  wish  it  was  engraved  and  out. 

Vou  express  a  desire  K,  know  the  exact  relation  which  I  stood  m  point  of  Rank 
and  Command  with   Captain   Lewis— r,y/(,j/  /;/   eery  p,i„t  of  iu-i—(\  did  not 


I      '•] 


M' 


ki 


Ixxii 


Mi;MiiIk    (i|.    V.II.I.IAM    Cl.ARK. 


think  iiiy?'i.-lf  very  well  treated  as  I  did  not  i;ft  the  appoiiitiiient  which  was  prom- 
ised me,  as  I  was  not  disposed  to  make  any  noise  about  tlio  business  have  never 
mentioned  the  particulars  to  anyone,  and  must  re^piest  you  not  to  mention  my 
disapoinlment  and  the  cause  to  anyone. — 

In  March  [Mai,  7thJ  171^1  I  ua^  ajipoinleiUi  I.ieut.  in  Waynes  army  and  was 
kept  on  conmiaud  about  iS  months  before  I  joined  the  maiii  army  [Sept.  4th, 
171)2).  When  I  joined  I  was  anexed  to  a  (.'hosen  Ritle  (Company,  (jf  which  I 
had  the  command,  and  received  a  StatT  appointment,  both  of  which  I  retained 
untill  after  the  Treaty  at  tireenville  and  at  the  time  of  takeing  posse.ssion  of  the 
■\Vestcrn  posts,  I  ;vi?^'//,v/  [July  l>t,  171/)]  and  returned  to  a  I'arni  in  in  Kentucky 
on  wdiich  I  lived  several  years  in  Ijad  health  (Capt.  Lewi',  was  appointed  an 
Ensijjn  and  arranjjed  to  tiie  company  which  I  commanded  a  tiew  months  before 
I  resiijned)  During  the  time  1  [was]  liveingon  my  Kami  in  Kent.y.  I  had  fre- 
(pient  occasions  to  visit  the  Eastern  States  li  Washington  where  I  became 
acquainted  with  the  rre->id'.  Mr.  Jefferson.  In  [July]  lSi)3  I  was  applied  to  by 
Captain  Lewis  by  Letter,  w]\'>  was  then  I'rivate  .Sccty  to  the  I'resident,  to  accom- 
pany him  on  an  Expedition  to  the  I'acific,  stating  the  gen'-  plan  and  objects, 
and  <p|Tered  by  the  apprb"  of  the  President  to  place  me  in  a  situation  in  every 
respect  equal  to  himself,  in  rank  pretentions  ivc  &c.  On  tliose  conditions  I 
agreed  to  undertake  the  expedition  made  my  arrangements  and  set  out,  and  pro- 
ceeded on  with  Capt.  Lewis  to  the  mouth  (jf  the  ^L^souri  where  we  remained 
the  winter  1803  made  every  nece.^sary  arrangement  to  set  out  early  in  spring 
1S04  every  thing  arranged  I  waiteil  with  .some  anxiety  for  the  conimis-.ion  which 
I  had  reason  to  expect  (Capt.  of  Indioneers  [Engineers])  a  I'lew  day•^  before  I 
set  out  I  received  a  Commission  of  2nd  Lieutenant  of  Artillerist  [dated  Mar. 
26th,  1S04],  my  feelings  on  this  occasion  was  as  might  be  expected.  I  wi-,hed 
the  expedition  suckcess,  an<l  from  the  assurence  of  Capt.  Lewis  that  in  every 
respect  my  situation  command  &c  iVc.  should  lie  equal  to  his  ;  viewing  the  Com- 
mission as  mearly  calculated  to  autheri^e  punishment  to  the  soldiers  if  necessary, 
I  proceeded.  \o  difticuelty  t  )ok  place  on  our  r.iut  relative  to  this  point — ( )n  my 
return  to  this  town,  I  inclosed  the  Commission  to  th"  Secty  of  War  and  wrote 
to  him  that  the  Commission  had  answered  the  purpo>,c  purpose  for  which  it  w,i.s 
intende<l  &c. 

I  do  not  wish  that  anything  relative  to  tliisComsn  or  appointment  should  be 
inserted  in  my  Hook,  or  made  known,  for  very  perficular  reason^,  and  I  I o  assure 
you  that  I  have  never  related  as  much  on  the  subject  to  any  per>on  1".-; ore.  He 
so  good  as  to  place  me  on  equal  footing  with  ('apt.  Lewis  in  every  point  of  view 
withoiit  exposeing  anything  which  might  have  taken  place  or  even  mentioning 
the  Commission  at  all. 

I  hope  you  will  do  me  the  honor  to  write  to  me  often  and  without  reserve  — 
Accept  the  .icknowdedgements  of  Mrs.  (_!lark  and  my  self  for  the  friendly  senti- 
ments expressed  in  the  latter  part  of  your  letter  and  accept  of  our  wormest  wishes 
for  your  [health]  and  li.ipiness. 

I  remain  your  sincere 

Mr.  Xichs.    Hirl.lle  Erien.l 


I 


Attv  at  LiT.v  I'hih. 


Wm  Clark 


MI'.MOIR    OF    WH.I.IAM    CI.AIU-C. 


IWlll 


(■ 


No  question  coiicornint;  tlic  relations  of  the  two  noble 
younjf  officers  diuin;^  the  Expedition  is  possible,  (")n  the 
one  hand,  it  is  certain  that  Captain  Lewis  was  absolutely  in 
command  of  the  I^xijedition,  taking  official  precedence  over 
his  lieutenant,  Cajjtain  Clark,  whom  he  outranked,  and  who 
was  us  fully  subject  to  his  lawful  orders  as  any  enlisted  man 
of  the  party.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  not  less  certain  that 
in  their  mutual  relations  the  technic.d  point  was  ni  er  r.'.ised 
between  the  two  captains,  and  tliat  the  actual  command  and 
conduct  of  the  Expedition  devolved  upon  each  in  exactly 
equal  dej^ree. 

It  would  appear  from  the  foregoiiiL;  letter  that  Captain 
Clark  tendered  his  resignation  in  1X06,  immediately  upon 
his  return  to  St.  Louis.  The  official  date  of  his  resignation 
is  Feb.  27th,  1S07,  and  thus  but  a  few  days  before  that  of 
the  next  commission  which  lire  received,  a  copy  of  a  copy  of 
which  is  as  follows : 


Thom.i.^  Jefferson 
rresiMcnt  of  tlie  United  Mates  of  .\inerica 
Ti)  all  who  shall  sec  tlieie  Tresents,  (Jreetiiij; 

Know  \'ii,  that  reposing  special  trust  ami  contiileiH'c  in  tlio  patriotism,  valour, 
fidelity  and  abilities  of  William  Clark,  I  do  by  tliese  present.-.  ap;ninl  him  the 
said  William  Clark,  l!ri|^adier  General  of  the  Militia  of  tlie  Te-rrir  JTy  of  Loui- 
siana ;  He  is  therefore  carefully  and  diligently  to  (lischarj;e  the  duty  of  lirigadier 
General — And  Iil-  is  to  oliserve  and  follow  sucti  orders  an  I  directions  from  time 
to  time  as  lie  sliall  receive  ftoni  the  President  of  tlie  United  States  of  Ani'Tica 
for  the  time  lieing,  or  I'ther  superior  ofCicer  set  over  him  according  to  the  i.nvs 
for  regulating  anil  ciisciplining  the  Mditia  of  said  Territory — And  I  do  strictly 
charge  and  require  all  officers  and  soldier^  under  his  command  to  lie  obedient  to 
his   orders — This   commission  to  continue  in   force  until  the   end  of   the   next 

Session  of  the  Senate  of  the  United  States  and  im  longer 

(liven  under  my  hand  at  the  City  of  Washnigton  the   Twelfth  day  of 
March  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  One  Thousand  tight  llnndn'd  and  .Seven, 
anil  in  the  thirty-fourth  year  of  the  Independence  of  said  States. 
By  the  President  i.f  the  Tho*  Jefferson 

United  States  of  America 


i  Seal    ;■ 


IIv  I'cirliorn 


With  this  commission  General  Clark  was  also  mad'/  Indian 
Agent    for   Louisiana.       In    those   davs   this    title   was   not 


i 


,iiituaai*itcMii  ii«n*wiimfi[  I  i 


Ixxiv 


MKMOIK    ol'    WILLIAM    (.LAKK. 


synonymous  with  "  thief,"  and  the  position  was  one  of  l.jnor, 
not  to  be  souglu  or  used  for  dishonest  purposes.  I  have 
examined  much  official  correspondence  (on  file  in  the  War 
Department)  between  General  Clark  and  General  Henry 
Dcarijurn,  then  Secretary  of  War.     The  official  sif^nature  of 

-sometimes 
Most  of 


the    former  is  usually  "  Wni.   Clark,   I.   A.    1. 


written   in  fu 


as  "  Indian  Awnt   for  Louisiana. 


these  letters  bear  dates  of  the  first  year  of  his  a^jency,  and 
their  contents  show  that  At'ent  Cl.irk  had  his  hands  full  at 


this  ti 


I 


-■rt  tc 


some  of  his  Indian  affairs  beyond. 

General  Clark  was  reappointed  Brigadier  General  of 
the  Militia  of  Louisiana,  Feb.  2"th.  iSll,  by  President 
James  Madison,  William  Eustis  being  Secretary  of  War. 

Meanwhile  he  married  Miss  Julia  Hancock,  Jan.  5th,  1S08, 
at  I-'incastle,  Va.  In  that  year  also,  the  Grand  Lodge  of 
Ancient  York  Masons  of  Tennsylvania,  having  chartered  St. 
Louis  Lodge  No,  iii,  William  Clark  was  entered,  passed, 
and  raised  therein,  as  witness  his  dii)loma  of  Sept.  l8th, 
1809,  signed  by  Frederick  Rates.  On  the  i6th  of  Novem- 
ber, iSio,  he  was  appointed  Insjiector  General  of  the  Militia 
of  Missouri,  by  Governor  Benjamin  Howard. 

It  will  be  convenient  to  continue  with  the  list  of  official 
honors  and  dignities  of  which  General  Clark  was  the 
recipient.  Governor  Lewis  had  met  his  untimely  fate  in 
i8of).  Governor  Benjamin  Howard,  his  successor,  in  18 10 
(April  17th)  was  himself  succeeded  "  by  General  Clark,  July 
1st,  1813,  as  Governor  of  Missouri  Territory,  by  virtue  of  the 
following  appointment  (copied  from  a  copy  of  the  original): 

Lthh";  Madison,  rresident  of  the  United  States  of  .\merica 
To  nil  who  shall  sec  thc<'  ]ireseiils,  dreeting 

Know  \'f.  th.Tt  rei^sini;  s|  ecia!  Trust  .iiid  Confidence  in  the  Integrity,  Patri- 
otism  and  Ability  of  Wiliiani  C"'ark.  of  St.  Louis — I  do  appoint  liini  (iovernor 
in   and   near  tlie    Missouri   Territory,  and  do   authorize  and   empower  liim  to 

•*  After  ;i  slioit  iritcr\  ;tl.  tl-.iring  \vti'*.h  Tiederitk  I'ates  nctcti  ,is  ( liivernor.  Governor  CK^rk 
rcaclieti  St.  Ixuii^  the  last  of  June  i>r  first  of  July.  1813.  The  Missouri  G.i/ctte  of  July  -^d, 
1813,  lias  .111  item  noticing  his  arrival  "  on  Thiirstlay  last."  lUiring  the  first  session  of  the 
(Jeneral  A'-eniljly.  w  hich  Linivcned  .it  St.  Louis  on  Monday.  July  5th,  iSi  j,  hoth  houses  united 
in  an  addresti  to  the  new  Governor,  whose  reply,  owing  to  his  absence  on  public  business,  was 
not  rt-ielvcd  till  July  jfih. 


MEMOIR   (,V   WILLIAM    CIAKK.  Ixxv 

execute  and  fulfil  ,he  chuies  of  that  office  acccnlins  to  I-aw  ;  nn.l  ,„  Have  .n.i 
an  Ilf      \:  '  "'"^  '"  ""•  ''"""^'  '''■^•■'^^-•■^  -''  emolu„K.„.s  ,.,  the 

e  ln„  >lStaesa„,   nulonger.  unless  the  ITesi.lent  of  the  Unite.l  States  for 

the  fme  l,e,„j;  .l.ouUl  be  ,,lease,l  sooner  to  revoke  arul  .letennine  this  Con.mission 

In  I  esfmony  whereof,  I  have  caused  these  letters  t..  l,e  n.a.le  patent  an.l 

the  Seal  of  the  United  States  to  be  hereunto  affixed-Given  under  ,ny  hand 

at  the  C.ty  of  Washini^Iun  the  first  day  of  July  A.  I).    ,813  ;  and   of  the 

Independence  of  the  United  States  the  Thirty  Seventh. 

-.'j^eal   ;.  Hy  ,h«  President  :  J'"""  ^'^^'^^^^^n. 

James  Monroe 

Sec.  of  State. 

Governor  Clark  wa.s  rccommissioned '  as  such,  by  the  same 
June  i6th,  1816;  as  such,  by  the  same,  Jan.  21st,  1817  ;  and 
as  such,  by  James  Monroe,  President  of  the  United   State. 
John  Quincy  Adams  being  Secretary  of  State,  Jan    24th 
1820.     The  latter  year  determined  his  frubernatorial  func- 
tions ;  for  on   the  first  election  of  a  governor  for  the  State 
of  Missouri  he  was  defeated  by  Alexander  McNair      Never 
theless,  he  was  soon  placed  in  other  important  official  po.i- 
tions.      In   May.    ,822,   President    Monroe   appointed   him 
Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs ;'  in  October,  1824  he  was 
commissioned  by  the  same  as  Surveyor  General  of  the  States 
of  Illinois  and  Missouri,  and  of  the  Territory  of  Arkansas- 
and  on  March  4th,  1825,  he  was  rccommissioned^  by  Presi' 
dent   John   Quincy  Adams.  Henry  Clay  being  Secretary  of 

'nurinR    his    early   incuml.tncy  cf   this  ofTlcc,  Governor  CI.->rk's  chief  clerk  wa,    T.n,e. 
Kennerly,  who  w.,s  married     n  1S17,  ami  who've  fir^t   .nn    1,^,     •       o  ' 

Clark  Kennerly.     A  da„«h,er  r,f  ,he    .-  „  e   ,  "  n  a,  1  ,d  '"       ?'  T'  '"""'  '''"■■"" 

*. An  (iffice  which  had  laielv  been  irn!»H  K..   \,-.     r /-  r. 

.hi.  pn.i.ion   un.il    his   death      n«  Hi  '''":•    .^"P"'"''"''"'  Clark  held 

President  Van  liuren.  """'°'  ""'  ^"'^"'    '■"^''"'  •TP-nted    hy 

•  The  long  famous  post  of  Jefferson  Harracks  wi<  fsnhi;.^^,!  -_j  .     , 

.S...     ,n  July  of  th..  ye.ar  C^Lalhot  Ch.am^her:,:ir  l:^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

:::  in^si;!::':-;  ij::;;::ri:  t:i,::t:-:t::f  "^  nener^^ame:;;^;;;- 
p...dent  Of  .he  United  s.a.es.  In  ^^.::Z  :ni::::::^-r;z^f:-:'-^^ 

Henry  Leavenworth,  wuh  the  3d  T.  S,  Infantry,  whose   camp  w,s  ol  ed  cj,   Ml.  , 

the  ,hen  Governor   of    Missouri.     This  was  ,he   origin  of  Jeffer  on    I    rr  ck      wh       "'      ," 
completion  of  winter-c,,ar,ers,  the  officers  gave  a  balUo  the  citizens  of  S.  ^uton  jr,;:;  ^ 


f 


IXXVl 


MI'.MOIK    dl'    WII.IIAM    CI, ARK. 


V 


State.      He  laid  out  tlu'  town  of  I'.ulucili.  Ky.,  in  1S2.S,  ;uul 
in  1S30  effected  the  important  treaty  (A  Prairie  dii  Cliien. 

Meanwliile,  the  first  .Mrs.  Clark  havin^f  ilied,  June  27th, 
I1S20,  Gcner.il  Clark  married  Mrs.  Harriet  Kennerly  Rad- 
ford, Nov.  2Sth,  1S21.  At  the  latter  date  he  had  had  five 
children  ;  the  four  si:)ns  were  growing  up  ;  the  only  daughter, 


Marv,  had  died  a  f 


ew  we 


eks  before.     Of  the  two  chiUlr 


i-n 


of  the  second  marriage,  the  elder  is  still  living  ( I S93)  ;  the 


younger  died 


111  in 


f.incy."     General  Clark  himself  paid  the 


debt  of  nature  on  the  ist  of  September,  1838,  on  the  first  day 


)f  the  second  month  of  h 


at  thi 


;nco 


le  second  montn  oi  nis  sixty-nnith  year,  at  rne  resuier 
of  his  eldest  son.  The  Missouri  Saturday  News  of  Sept.  8th, 
1838,  appeared  in  mourning,  and  had  a  feeling  and  appreci- 
ative obituary,  by  the  editor,  Chas.  Keemle,  together  with  a 
poem  to  his  memory,  by  Mr.  I'ield.  His  funeral  was  the 
most  impressive  th.it  had  ever  taken  i)lace  in  St.  Louis ;  it 
was  a  public  demonstration  of  the  profound  respect  and 
warm  affection  of  the  conimunity  in  which  he  had  resided 
for  more  than  thirty  years,  during  the  whole  of  which  periotl 
he  had  been  prominently  identified  with  the  administration 
of  public  affairs,  both  civil  and  military. 


It  is  simply  impossible,  within  the  limits  of  a  mere  sketch 
like  the  present  article,  to  do  anything  like  justice  to  the  full- 

1S2'.  The  compliment  was  retiirncil  by  the  citi/ens  t.>  tlu;  niilit.iry  on  J.inu.iry  jut,  ami  the 
local  "  Jenkins  "  gave  an  accutint  of  the  latter  atTair  in  the  ct>lunins  of  the  Missouri  Kcpiilj- 
lican  "if  Fehniary  6ih,  where  we  read  : 

"  The  Iarj;e  Intiiaii  Conncil  Room  (General  Clark's")  was  selected  for  the  occasion,  and  was 
detnrated  in  a  style  retlectinjj  nuich  credit  oti  those  who  superintended  its  arran,;;enient  "  — 
with  rnuLh  more  on  the  music,  d.mcing,  toilets,  and  toasts  of  theoccasion — altogether  forming, 
in  the  lan,;nai;e  (if  Jenkins,";!  toute  enscnihit!  that  would  have  done  honor  to  any  city,  and 
was  a  favora'ile  evidetice  of  the  advance  of  society  west  of  the  Mississippi," 

'"  It  is  interesting  to  turn  from  tlry  data  like  these  and  those  which  have  preceded,  to  a  fath- 
er's own  words  aliout  his  children.  General  Clark  wrote  as  follows  to  Mr.  Jefferson,  in  a  letter, 
dated  St.  Louis,  Dec.  15th,  18^5.  now  fded  in  Jeff.  P.ipers  C,  2d  ser.,  Vol.  at  ;  "...  I  ha\e 
/7:'^sons  the  oldest  of  them  Meriwether  Lewis  of  17  years  of  age  is  a  C.idet  at  West  Point ;  he 
is  a  youth  of  Cap.u  ity  \-  Application,  anxious  to  receive  an  education  whi'di  he  wishes  to  com- 
plete at  sonie  university  after  he  leaves  W,  Point.  My  secon[d]  son  William  [Preston]  is  14 
years  of  age,  Hoald,  Sprightly  with  good  Capacity  detlclent  in  application. —  My  y\  Son  (jeorge 
Rogers  [ Hancock]  is  it  years  old  possessing  application  and  a  mind  ci[u,d  to  any  boy  of  his 
age— my  4th  Snn  John  [Julius]  is  3  years  old  is  Sprightly  hut  unfortunately  r)eformed — my  5th 
Son  Thomas  Jefferson  is  only  2  years  old  an.l  very  proiuisuig."  'I'he  last-named  is  the  still 
(t^  jt*  livin;4  ,ine  ;  whence  it  .ippe.irs  that  at  some  time  the  given  name  of  "  I'homas  Jefferson  " 
wa.  chaugeil  to  "  Jetferson  Ke.irny." 


ciia»''*< 


MKMdlK   (>1-    \VlI.I.IA^r    CIAk 


I XXVI I 


ro 


uivlod  life  of  a  man  of  William  Clark 


cliaractcr,  versatile  accomplishments,  and   b 


s  remarkable  i)ersonal 


ments.     What  has  i)rece(le(l 


riliiant  achi 


eve- 


milestones  of  1 
re(iuire  a  v 


merely  points  to  some  of  th( 


lis  lon.i,'  journey;  to  fill  in  the  detail.- 


oium 


would 


is 


e.  and  that  is  a  labor  which  must  be  left  to  his 
uture  bio^.rapher.     Should  it  ever  fall  to  my  share,  it  would 
be  assuredly  a  labor  of  love;  ior  the   study  of  a  sinc^le  epi- 
sode in  his  career  has  filled   me  with   the  most  vivid  admira- 
lon    or  the  man  himself,  aside  from  his  exploits.     The  few 
bare  facts  which  I  have  already  presented  will  be  found  more 
numerous  and  more  accurate  than  those  which  have  hith- 
erto appeared  in  any  sin.^de  article-so  little  does  the  world 
rea  ly  know  of  some  of  our  greatest   men  !     I  am  tempted 
to  desist  at  this  point    from  any  further  presentation  of  a 
subject  my  treatment  of  which   must  necessarily  be   inade- 
quate.  and.  therefore,  in   a  case   where   personal   name  and 
fame  are  concerned,  unjust.     ]5ut  since  I   am   in   possession 
of  some  datum.points  of  Clark's   career   which    are    either 
entirely  unkn.nvn  or  inaccurately  known,  these   mav  be  ap 
propnately  j.laced  on  record  here  and  now,  with   the  under- 
standm^r  that  they  shall  be  taken  as  materials  onlv,  and  not 
^is  a  finished  work.     I  will  first  present  some  item;  touching 
the  man  of  business;  next  <;ive  some  illustrations  of  what 
the  In.hans  thou.n^ht  of  this  fri.nd  ;  and  finish  with  various 
particulars    pertinent    to    any    history    of   that    exploration 
which  immortalized  twin  names. 


Mr  Clark  was  eminently  a  man  of  affairs,  who  could  turn 
a  trade  as  well  as  he  did  various  other  things.  Some  of  his 
transactions  are  of  record.  On  Au.i;.  rSth.  isoS.  Peter  Chou- 
teau  and  wife  transferred  to  him.  for  8Soo.  1.400  arpents 
of  lan.l  ,n  St.  Louis  Co.,  2-^  lea-ues  N.W.  of  St  I  ouis 
bounded  on  the  north  by  a  tract  belon..in^r  to  MeriwetluT 
Lewis.  On  Jan.  7th,  iSi  r,  he  bought  of  Alexander  McNair 
for  $,500,  the  north  half  of  hl„ck  No.  0,  ,,0  French  feet  on 
Main  .Street,  St.  Louis,  runnin.^r  east  to  the  river,  with  the  old 


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ixxviu 


MEMOIR   OF    WILLIAM   CLARK. 


French  house  built  of  posts  by  Rene  Kierscreau,  and  the 
three  small  stone  stores  of  Alexis  Marie.  He  lived  here  for 
a  time,  and  had  his  Indian  office  in  one  of  these  stores, 
where  is  now  the  corner  of  Main  and  Pine  streets.  On  Oct. 
7th,  1 8 14.  he  purchased  from  J  no.  G.  Comegys,  for  $1,000, 
47  feet  front  on  Main  street,  back  east  to  the  river,  in  block 
10,  between  Pine  and  Olive  streets.  Here  he  built,  in  1816, 
on  the  south,  21  feet  fronc,  a  two-story  brick  house,  when  only 
about  half  a  dozen  structures  of  that  material  existed  in  St. 
Louis.  The  lower  story  was  used  as  a  store ;  the  upper  was 
first  occupied  by  the  Missouri  Masonic  Lodge  No.  12  for  a 
couple  of  years  ;  from  1H23  to  1827  it  was  occupied  by  Mr. 
Frederick  L.  Billon,  the  noted  annalist  of  St.  Louis  (b.  Apr. 
23d,  1 801,  and  still  living,  1893).  The  north  26  feet  front  was 
sold  to  James  Kennedy,  for  §3,500,  July  19th,  1821.  On 
Dec.  13th.  181 5,  Mr.  Clark  bought  from  Antoine  Flandrin, 
for  $1,300,  the  N.E.  quarter  of  block  39,  on  the  S.W.  corner 
of  Main  and  Almond  streets,  with  the  house  built  of  posts 
by  N.  Beaugenou  in  1765.  The  first  marriage  ever  recorded 
in  St.  Louis,  that  of  B.'s  daughter,  in  April,  1766,  took  place 
In  this  bouse.  Mr.  Clark  occupied  it  for  t'vo  or  three  years, 
and  after  him  Captain  M.  Wherry  for  several  more.  On 
April  2d,  1 8 16,  Mr.  Clark  purchased  of  Col.  A.  Chouteau,  for 
$4. 500,  the  north  half  of  block  12,  on  the  S.E.  corner  of  Main 
and  Vine  streets,  with  the  old  stone  house  built  by  Louis 
Chancellier  in  1767.  This  s:ructure  was  removed  ;  in  iSiS-rg 
Mr.  Clark  erected  here  his  large  brick  mansion,  and  after- 
ward his  brick  row  south  of  it  for  his  Indian  council-house 
and  museum  of  Indian  curiosities.  But  after  these  and 
other  dealings  in  real  estate,  Mr.  Clark  died  in  the  house 
which  had  been  the  year  before  bought  from  George  Atchi- 
son by  Meriwether  Lewis  Clark. 

Almost  throughout  the  History  of  the  Expedition  we 
read  of  fur-bearing  animals,  and  of  the  fur-trade.  It  docs  not 
surprise  us  to  learn  that  Captain  Ciark  became  pecuniarily  in- 
terested in  this  then  remunerative  and  flourishing  industry, 
in  which   many  thousands  of  men  were  engaged  and  a  vast 


tl 


MEMOIR   i)V    WILLIAM    CLARK. 


Ixxix 


amount  of  capital  was  invested,  (^ne  of  the  earliest  if  not 
the  first  indications  of  activity  on  his  part  in  this  direction  is 
of  record  at  the  date  March  7th,  1S09,  when  were  associated, 
for  the  purposes  of  a  trading-camp  on  the  Missouri,  Benja- 
min Wilki.ison,  Pierre  Chouteau,  Sr.»  Auguste  Chouteau,  Jr., 
Manuel  Lisa,  Reuben  Lewis,  William  Clark,  and  Sylvestre 
Labbadie,  all  of  St.  Louis;  Pierre  Menard,  and  William  Mor- 
rison, of  Kaskaskia;  Andrew  Henry,  of  Louisiana,  and  Den- 
nis Fitzhugh,  of  Kentucky.  The  Louisiana  Gazette  of  Feb. 
1st.  1812,  prints  the  following  advertisement:  **  Missouri 
Fur  Company.  Capital  $50,000 ;  50  sliares  at  $1,000.  Syl- 
vestre Labbadie,  Wm.  Clark,  and  Manuel  Lisa,  the  old  Com- 
pany, hold  $27,000  in  goods,  &c.,  up  the  Missouri  River. 
Subscriptions  desired  for  the  remaining  $23,000." 

We  have  every  reason  to  believe  that  a  fair  share  of  profit 
accrued  ix.  i  r.iost  if  \U)t  all  of  William  Clark*s  business 
ventures.  T'lf  :...»ne  cannot  be  said  of  the  only  literary 
enterprise  with  w/.ich  i»is  name  ever  was  or  ever  will  be 
associated.'*     The    inside    liistory    of    Lewis    and    Clark's 

*'  A  certain  connection  which  may  hecailed  literary  is  represented  in  his  election  as  a  corre- 
sponding member  of  the  U.  S.  Naval  Lyceum,  June  aSth,  iSj;.  In  zuwiogy,  his  name  attaches 
to  several  species  of  animals,  discovered  by  or  dedicated  to  him.  In  palxontulugy,  lie  lent  a 
hand  to  help  Mr.  Jefferson  secure  specimens  of  important  fossils  which  were  named  and 
described  by  Cuvier.  Thus  in  Jeff.  Papers,  liit  ser..  Vol  12,  Uoc.  No.  340,  is  a  letter  from 
Mr.  Jeffersm  to  him,  dated  Washington,  Dec.  !'>th,  1807,  relating  to  the  cUcction  of  hemes  of 
the  mammoth,  which  Mr.  Jefferson  wished  to  procure  to  send  lu  the  Institute  of  France;  item. 
if>itf.,  Doc.  No.  802,  another  letter  from  the  same  to  him,  of  date  Sept.  loth,  180),  relating  to 
bones  upon  which  the  genus  ^/fif/.j./r^i  was  iiased.  In  this  letter  Mr.  Jefferson  apuloKizes  for 
the  trouble  he  is  putting  General  Clark  to,  saying  handsomely  :  "  The  world  has,  of  right, 
no  further  claims  on  yourself  *V  ( lovr.  I.t'w  i-,,  but  >urh  as  you  may  voliini.irily  render  according 
to  your  convenience  or  as  they  may  make  i(  your  interest."  Let  me  also  mention  here  a  letter 
from  Lafayette  to  General  Clark,  dated  Paris,  r;;li.  ist,  1830,  a  copy  of  which  is  before  me.  and 
one  clau>e  nf  which  1  will  cite  :  "The  grisley  be.tr  you  had  the  goodness  to  send  to  me,  has 
been  the  ivr^TC  admired  on  this  side  the  Atlantic  as  '.t  was  the  first  animal  of  the  kind,  living  or 
dead,  that  has  ever  made  its  appearance  in  Kurope.  I  was  inclined  to  make  a  pel  of  him,  as  he 
vas  then  very  v;enlle.  Hut  it  was  thought  wi?.er  to  put  him  under  the  lare  of  the  Itnard  of 
Professors  at  the  Jardin  dcs  I'lantes.  .  .  .  His  large  size  and  ferocious  temper  have  since 
been  developed."  In  botany,  K.  Pnrsh  erected  the  getius  C/ifk/ii,  of  the  evenin,;  primrose 
family  (natural  order  Onaip-tUi'iP),  which  contains  annual  herbs  nf  Oregon  .mil  Cahforni.t, 
sniie  species  ul  which  are  cultivated  for  urn.uncnt,  as  C.  ////.  //**//.»  and  (\  r/^i^.tfn  They  have 
alternate,  mostly  entire  leaves,  with  showy  flowers  in  the  upper  .ixiK,  or  the  upper  running  ini<» 
a  loose  raceme  ;  llowers  rcijular  and  symmetri.al  ;  c.dyx-tube  exleruled  beyond  the  ovary  ;  petals 
4,  cuneate  or  rhombic,  sometimes  3 -lobe  I,  raided  on  a  sI(.oider  claw,  never  yellow  ;  stamens  8, 
with  slender  filaments  allernalcl*-  longer  and  shorter  ;  stigmas  4  ;  pnd  4sidcd,  linear,  tapering 
upward.  C.  puUhella  i;i  about  i  fi)i)t  nlnh,  with  narrow  lance-linear  leaves,  and  deeply  idohed 
petals,  purple  or  in  cultivation  rose-colored  or  white,  and  producing  a  partly  double  blossom. 


ir 


mmmmmmBmmmm 


Ixxx 


MEMOIR   Ol-    WILLIAM    CLAKK. 


immortal  book  is  a  yawning  chasm  between  cash  and  glory. 
Lewis  was  tkad  ;  Clark  piisheil  the  work  to  publication. 
His  total  receipts  from  this  business  were  no  dollars  and  no 
cents  ;  but  the  assignees  of  his  insolvent  publishers,  who  had 
failed  while  the  book  was  in  press,  generously  gave  him  the 
copper-plates,  as  likewise  permission  to  try  it  again,  if  he 
liked  to  be  literary.  These  old  coppers  are  serviceable  at 
present  writing  as  paper-weights  on  my  desk  ;  but  Captain 
Clark  never  ventured  to  avail  himself  of  the  copyright  thus 
made  over  to  him. 


General  and  Governor  Clark  was  known  far  and  wide  to 
the  Indians  as  the  "  Red-heatl."  It  is  significant  of  his 
repute  among  them  that  St.  Louis  was  for  thorn  simply  the 
Red-head's  town — as  we  should  say,  "  Clarksville."  The 
pith  of  this  whole  matter  is  in  the  words  of  a  Sac  chief  who 
had  been  called  in  council  by  Major  Benjamin  O'Fallon  at 
St.  Louis,  April  3d.  iSJl,  on  the  subject  of  certain  hostilities 
which  were  to  be  suppressed  :  "  .American  chief  !  We  have 
opened  our  ears  to  your  words  and  those  of  the  Red-head. 
Brother!  We  receive  you  as  the  son  of  the  Red-head  ;  inas- 
much as  we  love  him,  we  will  love  you  and  do  not  wish  to 
offend  you.  "  General  Clark  possessed  in  an  eminent  degree 
those  personal  ciua'ities  v.hich  commanded  the  respect  of 
Indians  as  well  as  of  all  other  persons  whose  privilege  it  was 
to  know  him  ;  they  recognized  in  him  a  great  chief,  whether 
friend  or  foe.  Th',.ysaw  he  preferred  to  be  the  former;"  and 
they  fouml  this  to  be  to  their  own  advantage.  They  com- 
pared his  fair  and  honorable  dealings  with  the  lying  and  cheat- 
ing which  to  them  were  no  novel  elements  in  the  character  of 

('.  r/r_i;tin\  is  more  r f.mmonly  seen  in  cnnscrvrttnrie*; ;  it  i*-  fully  ?  feet  hiv;h.  with  l.incc-ov.ite  or 
oblong  leaves  on  Knip  Ijranthes  anJ  entire  lil-.c-purple  pct.nU.  brn.idcr  thiin  long.  i'Aty^ia  is 
one  of  n  ^rouji  ff  jiencr..  ini  Iiidinc  (/■>/. '//>rr-;.  the  e\eni?iK  primroses  proper,  and  belongs  to  that 
ortlt-r  whif  h  contains  the  familiar  fuchsias. 

I'-"  \  letter  of  (Icneral  Cl.irk  lo  Mr.  Jefferson,  d.iteil  St.  I  nui~.  Iter.  isih.  1F35.  now  filed  in  Jeff. 
I'ajiers  C,  ::d  ser..  Vol.  31.  gives  a  sipn  of  the  aniitv  that  inspired  his  policv  with  the  Indians  : 
"  In  my  present  sitnali4>n  of  Superintendent  of  Irifiiaii  af.airs.  it  wr.iiM  afford  me  pleasure  to  he 
enabled  lo  meIior.»tc  the  (ondiiioa  i>f  th-isc  nnfortun.tte  people  place''  .mder  mv  rharpe,  know- 
ing as  I  il->  their  rett  heilness,  and  their  rapid  tierline. — It  is  to  be  lamented  that  the  depltrable 
kitualiun  of  the  Indians  do  n(>t  receive  more  of  the  luimain  feelings  of  the  nation." 


MEMOIR   OK    Wl 1. 1,1AM    CLARK. 


Ixxxi 


many  whites  with  whom  they  were  brought  in  contact ;  they 
discovered  him  to  be  a  man  of  his  word  ;  and  they  reposed 
unbounded  confidence  in  all  that  he  said.  Probably  no 
officer  of  the  government  ever  made  his  personal  influence 
more  widely  and  deeply  felt ;  his  superintendency  grew  to 
be  a  sort  of  lawful  autocracy,  wielded  in  the  best  int<'rests 
of  all  concerned,  on  the  strong  principle  of  even-ha:  Jed  jus- 
tice; his  word  became  Indian  law,  from  the  Mississippi  to 
the  Pacific.  Thousands  of  Indians  had  made  his  personal 
acquaintance  when  he  traveled  among  them  ;  and  in  later 
years  there  could  have  been  few  who  did  not  regard  his 
signature  as  "medicine"  of  the  most  salutary  sort. 

We  sometimes  hear  of  persons  who  are  credited  with 
great  insight  into  what  is  called  "  the  Indian  character." 
Granting  that  Indians  have  all  the  defects  of  their  qualities, 
and  that  some  of  these  are  peculiar  to  this  remarkably 
picturesque  race  of  men,  it  does  not  follow  that  there  is  not 
as  much  human  nature  in  an  Indian  as  in  any  other  person. 
No  professional  secret  is  violated  in  saying  that  to  treat  an 
Indian  as  if  he  were  a  human  being  is  to  encourage  him  to 
return  the  compliment.  General  Clark  received  back  from 
the  Indians  only  what  he  gave  out  to  them  ;  reciprocity  in 
fair  dealing  was  established ;  for  the  rest,  they  recognized 
his  superiority  in  mental  and  material  resources  ;  they  felt 
and  feared  his  power.  Had  he  not  been  at  heart  their  sin- 
cere friend  and  well-wisher — had  the  moral  element  been 
eliminated  from  the  equation — had  he  only  made  terms  with 
them  with  the  idea  that  it  is  cheaper  to  feed  than  to  fight 
Indians — he  never  could  have  acquired  that  ascendency 
which  enabled  him  to  exercise  perfect  control.  During  his 
long  administration  of  Indian  affairs,  beginning  soon  after 
his  return  from  the  Expedition,  aad  ending  only  with  his 
life,  he  was  instrumental  in  bringing  about  many  important 
treaties,  not  only  between  his  government  and  the  Indians, 
but  also  between  different  tribes  of  the  latter.  Me  was 
master  of  a  situation  whose  possibilities,  both  for  good  and 
evil,  were   enormous ;  in  his  hands,  possible  evil  turned  to 


F 


HBF, 


Ixxxii 


MKMOIk  OF   WILLIAM   CLARK 


certain  good.  This  man  was  a  large  factor  in  the  civiliza- 
tion of  that  great  West  which  Lewis  and  Clark  discovered. 
It  may  be  said  of  him  with  special  pertinence,  stat  magni 
nominis  umbra — for  the  explorer  stands  in  the  shadow  of 
his  own  great  name  as  such,  obscuring  that  of  the  soldier, 
statesman,  diplomat,  and  patriot.  The  world  is  slow  to 
concede  the  greatness  of  any  man  in  more  than  one  thing. 


We  will  now  turn  to  the  light  another  facet  in  the  complex 
of  this  many-sided  man,  namely,  his  instrumentality  in  the 
publication  of  that  History  of  the  Expedition  which  was 
rewritten  for  the  press  by  Nicholas  Biddle  from  the  manu- 
script journals  and  field  notebooks  of  Lewis  and  Clark. 
Captain  Lewis  is  believed,  no  doubt  rightly,  to  have  been 
on  his  way  East  to  attend  to  this  matter  when  he  met  his 
fate ;  whereupon,  that  duty  devolved  upon  his  comrade, 
and  was  almost  immediately  assumed  by  him.  My  informa- 
tion upon  this  score  is  not  less  accurate  than  extensive,  and 
will  be  found  almost  entirely  novel,  as  it  is  derived  mainly 
from  the  never  published  Clark-Biddle  correspondence,  now 
in  my  hands.  These  letters  speak  autobiographically  for 
themselves,  and  I  will  therefore  select  a  few  for  presentation. 
The  one  of  earliest  date  is  as  follows : 

Near  Fincastle  Virgi.  2o'l'.  Feby  1810 
Dear  Sir 

I  expected  to  have  had  the  pleasure  of  hereiiig  from  you  previous  to  my  setting 
out  from  Philadelphia  hut  as  I  did  not  receve  a  note  from  you  at  that  time  cal- 
culateil  on  receeving  a  letter  from  y.ni  at  this  place  on  the  Subject  of  writing  my 
Western  Tour  &c.  as  I  have  been  disappointed  in  hereing  from  you  on  this  Sub- 
ject feel  my  self  much  at  a  loss  to  a<lress  you — I  shall  not  employ  the  gentleman 
in  Richmond  to  write  the  Hock  %vhom  I  mentioned  haveing  in  view,  from  his 
offer  made  previous  to  my  seein;^  you.  I  have  calculated  on  your  writing  for 
me,  and  if  you  will  undertake  this  work  ;  cant  you  come  to  this  place,  where  I 
have  my  books  and  memorandoms  and  stay  with  me  a  week  or  two  ;  read  over 
iV  make  yourself  thereby  accjuainted  with  everything  which  may  not  be  explained 
in  the  Journals?  if  you  will  ci)nie  it  may  enable  me  to  give  you  a  more  full  view 
of  those  parts  which  may  not  be  thereliy  explained  and  inable  you  to  proceed 
without  delicuilty.  Such  parts  as  may  not  be  full,  I  can  explain,  and  add  such 
adilitional  matter  as  I  may  recollect — 


**v. 


MEMOIR  OF  WILLIAM  CLARK.  Ixxxiii 

Botan.ca    work  wh.ch  I  shall  send  to  Doctr.  Barton,  and  will  deliver  the  Bo<  k! 

Conrad  of  I>h,la.lelph.a  to  re,,uest  you  to  come  on  here  if  possible  and  spend  a 
short  ,me  I  am  at  present  with  Col.  Hancock  my  father  in  Law  whoTon  I 
refred  and  plesen.ly  situated  [place]  in  view  of  the'xown  of  p!^    asTle_  should 

r;aur„TnTh;':s:'n\^^''"'*'  '"'r  '"* '-"'  "^  "agerstowTwini: ' 

«  ft  aunton  in  the  S(ai,'f  which  passes  this  place  once  a  week  — 

..  "^r  :.;*;:,r  ■  ""'"■'  °' ""  '•""■  ""■ '»'-™  -^  -^  »r 

Vour  Obe  Servt 
Mr.  Nicholis  Diddle  ^^''"  Clark 

Phila. 

This    letter    is   folded,    sealed    without    envelop    super 
scnbed  ''Nicholis  Biddle  esquire  Atty  at  Law  Philadelphia  " 
marked  by  postmaster,  in  MS..  "  Fincastle  Faby  2ah  20'" 
[cents],   and   indorsed    by    Mr.    Biddle.   "From    Gen'   VV 
Clarke  20  Feby.  1 8 10". 


Sir,  Philada,  March  3.  i8io 

I  have  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letter  of  20th  Feby  which  reached 

tTatT     ?r       "!  '""  "^"'^  '''^  "y  tTother-snote  will  have  app  i  ed  y,  u 
that  It  will   be  out  of  my  power  to  undertake  what  you  had   the  n oH.In!.; 
offer,  and  the  only  object  of  the  present  is  to  renew  my  re^e.  .!t  b'     ,g        i  Jd 

to  S  r  "u';''""-'  "■'?  ^"'^  "'^'■"-  ''y  °-"''^'''-  necessarily  onfi'  me 
to  I  h.la.  and  I  have  neither  health  nor  leisure  to  do  sufficient  justice  to  the  fru  t! 
of  your  enterprise  ami  ingenuity-You  cannot  be  long  however  w  It  ma' 
a  more  ortunate  selection,  but  if  I  can  be  of  any  assistance  to  yo  he  e  i„  Jf 
proposed  publication  it  shall  be  very  cheerfully  given. 

GenlWmn..rk  Being  with  high  respect 

»■ -Castle  ^'°^''      „. 

Virginia  ^^  Middle 

Before  Mr.  Biddle  could  have  heard  from  General  CI  trk 
again  he  changed  his  mind  and  wrote  as  follows: 


Sir, 


I'hiladL-lj.liia 

SatunKiy  A!an.h  17,  iSio. 


I  had  the  pleasure  of  writinu  to  vou  on  the  1,1  ;.,.t  .1 


¥ 


■^ffli 


Ixxxiv 


MEMOIR   OF   WILLIAM   CLARK. 


c 


your  satisfaction.  Having  since  then  seen  Mr.  Conrad,  iV  Or  Ilartcn,  what  I 
learnt  from  them,  joined  with  a  prospect  of  better  health  ^  more  time  than  I 
had  originally  expected  induced  me  to  consent  provided  you  had  not  in  the  mean 
time,  as  I  thought  probable,  made  a  better  choice.  Mr  Connid  mentioned  to 
me  to  day  that  your  last  letter  of  the  (/h  jnst.  represents  you  as  under  no  engage- 
ments of  that  sort.  I  will  ilierefore  very  readily  agree  to  do  all  that  is  in  my 
power  for  the  ailvancemeni  of  the  work  ;  and  I  think  I  can  piomise  with  sinne 
contidence  that  it  shall  be  ready  as  soon  as  the  ])ublisher  [Mr.  John  Conrad]  is 
prepared  to  print  it.  Having  made  up  my  mind  tod.-iv,  I  am  desirous  that  no 
delay  should  occur  on  my  part.  As  therefore  you  express  a  wish  that  I  should 
see  you,  I  am  arranging  my  business  so  as  to  leave  this  on  Wednesday  next,  & 
take  the  route  by  Ilagerstown  Winchester  iVc.  In  this  way  I  hojie  to  make  you 
a  short  visit  very  soon  after  the  receipt  of  my  letter.  In  the  mean  time  I 
remain  with  high  respect  Yrs  S'q  N.  Biddle 

Genl  Wm  Clark. 
Fincastle 
Virginia 

But  before  General  Clark  received  the  above  he  wrote . 

Fin  Castle  Vga  March  25«h.  1810 
Dear  Sir 

I  was  extreamly  sorry  to  find  by  your  letter  of  the  y<i.  inst.  that  your  health 
was  bad,  and  that  your  Occupation  would  confine  you  to  I'hiladelphia,  and 
would  not  afford  your  leasure  to  Comply  with  my  wishes  of  writing  my  Journals 
&c.  The  proffered  assistance  in  the  later  part  of  your  letter,  creates  much 
solicitude  and  my  most  sincere  acknowledgements  for  the  friendly  sentiments  it 
contains. 

I  am  much  gratified  by  M'  Mr  Conrads  letter  of  the  ly^.  inst  :  to  learn,  the 
state  of  your  health  ;  and  that  you  are  willing  to  undert.ike  the  writing  of  my 
Journal,  and  to  have  it  ready  for  publication  in  12  months  &c. 

M'  Conrad  also  informs  me  that  you  will  comply  with  my  request  to  see  me  at 
this  place  before  I  set  out  to  the  westward.  The  roads  are  now  fine  and  I  hope 
your  health  may  have  permitted  you  to  have  set  out  before  this  time.  I  must 
request  you  to  Come  on,  as  soon  .is  possible,  as  my  business  call  me  to  Loui- 
siana ;  and  nothing  detains  me,  but  the  business  I  wish  with  you 
With  the  highest  respect  &  esteem 

1  am  yr  ob  Serf. 

Mr.  N.  Biddle  Wm  Clark 

Mr.  Biddle,  having  inade  his  visit,  returned  home,  and 
began  to  write  the  book.  Mr.  George  Shannon,  who  was 
one  of  the  members  of  the  E.xpedition,  next  appears  on  the 
scene  : 


u 


MEMOIR  OF   WILLIAM   CLAkK. 


Ixxxv 


Louisville,  May  aaml.  i9io 
Dear  Sir 

This  will  be  handed  to  you  by  Mr  George  Shannon  the  young  man 
I  spoke  to  you  about,  who  was  with  me  on  the  N  W  expedition  ;  he  has  agreed 
to  go  to  Philadelphia  and  give  such  information  rilitive  to  that  Tour  as  may  be 
in  his  power.  This  young  gciitloman  possesses  a  sincere  and  undisguised  heart, 
he  is  highly  spoken  of  by  all  his  aci|uaintai\cc  and  much  respeclcil  at  the  Lex- 
ington University  where  he  has  been  for  the  last  two  years.  Any  advice  and 
friendly  attentions  which  you  may  show  to  this  young  man  will  be  greatfuUy 
acknowledgetl  by  him,  and  confur  an  additional  obligation  on  nic. 

Mf.  S  connections  are  respectable.  Since  the  misfortune  of  loseing  his  leg, 
he  h.is  been  studeously  employed  in  persute  of  an  edducation  to  en.ible  him  to 
acquire  a  profession  by  which  he  can  make  an  honorable  and  respectable  liveing 
— he  wishes  to  stuily  Law,  and  pr.ictice  in  the  Western  Country. 

May  I  request  of  you  to  give  him  siicli  advice  or  assistance  as  may  be  agreea- 
ble I'v:  convenient  to  y<m  to  enable  liim  to  prosue  those  studies  while  in  I'hil.i. 
Accept  my  highest  respect  \  Friendship 

Mr.  N.  Biddle  \Vm  Clark 

The  History  of  the  Expedition  havinjj  been  thus  launched, 
Mr.  Biddle  was  already  iiavij^Mtinj;  the  Missouri,  en  route  to 
the  Pacific  and  back.  We  have  a  j^linip.se  of  his  progress  in 
following  extract  of  an  eight-page  letter: 


at 


Philadelphia  July  7.  1810 
My  Dear  Sir, 

.  .  .  ever  since  my  return  to  Philadelphia  I  have  been  engaged 
seven  or  eight  and  even  more  hours  a  day  on  cmr  work,  .  .  .  the  maj)  was  imme- 
diately forwarded  to  Mr.  Hassler,  and  l)r  Harton  received  all  his  jiapers.  On 
consulting  with  .Mr  Conrad  he  agreed  with  me  in  opinion  that  it  was  nuich  bet- 
ter to  have  a  large  connected  map  of  the  whole  route  &  the  adjacent  country  than 
to  form  an  atlas  of  detached  parts.  The  map  can  eml)race  as  many  degrees  of 
latitude  as  you  think  your  Indian  inform.alion  will  authorize.  .  .  The  portages 
of  the  Columbia  iV  Missouri  we  have  already  \  they  will  form  very  interesting 
charts  which  may  be  put  into  the  work  opposite  to  the  p.iges  which  contain  a 
description  of  them  [which  was  done].  The  only  other  |iart  which  I  think  it 
would  be  well  to  have  on  a  largc-r  scale  than  is  contained  in  the  t,eneral  map 
is  the  passage  across  the  Kock  niount.un — that  is,  the  country  comj)rized 
between  the  head  of  Jefferson's  river  northward  to  the  point  where  you  struck 
the  Kooskooskee  and  extending  eastward  to  the  falls  [of  the  Missouri]  As  that 
square  is  so  ini]>ortant  a  part  of  your  route  it  should  be  shown  very  distinctly. 
In  all  other  respects  your  present  maii,  (m  a  scale  rather  larger,  and  diminished 
or  increased  as  to  ilegrees  of  latitude  [/.  f.,  taking  in  less  or  more  country  north 
and  south  of  the  route]  as  you  may  judge  best,  will  be  (juite  suflicient.  [Hut  the 
map  as  ]iublished  was  on  a  scale  much  reduced  from  the  original.) 


J 


f 


m^SBHV 


^9mm 


OT 


«■■ 


Ixxxvi 


MEMOIR  OK   WILLIAM   CLARK. 


On  my  arrivtl  I  found  that  propoMls  were  circulating  here  (or  a  second  edition 
of  Gass's  journal  [of  which  three  Philadelphia  editions  </ii/  appear — i8lo,  1811, 
iBia],  which  I  thought  it  best  to  stop  by  announcing  immediately  our  work  iV 
therefore  published  the  Trospectus.  I  see  also  by  the  English  journals  that 
some  man  in  England  has  printed  a  sort  of  account  of  the  Expedi'Hin,  compiled 
from  Gass  chiefly,  and  from  the  documents  which  you  and  Captain  Lewis  sent  to 
Congress.'*  The  work  seems  tu  have  met  with  a  favorable  reception  in  England, 
which  is  a  good  sign  for  our  own.    .    . 

Today  I  have  sent  you  and  ten  men  up  into  a  bottom  to  look  for  wood  to 
make  canoes  after  the  unhappy  failure  uf  your  iron  boat  ;  so  that  you  see  how 
far  I  am  [on  July  7th,  1805 — above  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri ;  see  p.  407].    .    . 

I  tind  that  Gass's  journal  in  the  original  manuscript  is  also  deposited  in  our 
library  [<>f  the  I'hilosophical  Society],  and  at  my  service.  Ordway's,  which  is 
much  better  than  (iass's,  is  really  very  useful  :  and  as  these  two  as  well  asyour's 
and  Captain  Lewis's  and  my  own  notes  are  all  tu  be  examined,  in  order  to  leave 
nothing  omitted,  the  labor  is  by  no  means  light.  .  .  Shannon  has  not  yet 
arrived.    .    . 

I  must  now  begin  my  catechism  of  incjuiries  with  which  you  remember  I  impor- 
tuned you  not  a  little  when  1  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  you  [<■/.  p.  31],    .    . 

In  the  mean  time  I  remain  with  my  best  respects  to  M"  Clarke,  &  my  very 
warmest  wishes  for  your  fine  little  son  [Meriwether  Lewis  Clark]. 

Your's  very  sincerely 

Gen  William  Clarke  Nicholas  Biddle 

St  Louis 

Upper  Louisiana 

The  next  letter  in  point  of  date  is  a  long  one  from  Mr. 
F.  R.  Hassler,  who  was  getting  up  the  map.  dated  Schenec- 
tady, Aug.  1 2th,  1 8 10,  full  of  astronomical  calculations  for 
longitude,  etc.  It  is  addressed  to  Mr.  Biddle.  The  next 
on  my  file  is  from  General  Clark : 

St.  Louis  Deer.  2o<h.  1810 
Dear  Sir 

I  herewith  Inclose  to  you  a  map  which  I  have  drawn  foi  my  Hook,  !t  is  much 
more  correct  than  any  which  has  been  before  publishe<l,  it  is  made  on  the  same 
scale  of  the  one  you  have,  containing  more  Country,  I  wish  you  to  anex  as 
much  of  it  to  the  book  as  you  think  best,  you  will  observe  that  I  have  not 
inclosed  it  in  lines, — The  Ohio  is  not  correct,  mearly  shows  the  rivers  as  they 
mouth — I  am  sorry  that  I  could  not  get  the  calculations  from  Mr.  Hosier  [ILis- 

■*  Mr.  Biddle  means  that  miserable  spurious  "  I.ewis  and  Clark  "  piililished  in  London  in 
180Q — the  main  body  of  it  stolen  from  Jonathan  Carver  and  fathered  on  Lewis.  See  my 
account  of  the  Apocrypha  in  the  tWbliographical  Introduction.  The  prospectus  above  men- 
tioned must  be  extant,  as  it  w.'\s  published  ;  but  it  has  become  so  rare  that  1  have  never  seen  it. 
1  should  be  much  obliged  to  anyone  who  would  favor  me  with  a  copy,  or  inform  me  where  one 
could  be  procured. 


MEMOIR  OF   WILLIAM   CLARK. 


Ixxxvii 


iler]  to  correct  the  map.  but,  I  hope  it  will  doe  without,  This  package  is  inclosed 

to  the  Secy  of  War  to  be  fowarcled.— 

1  have  not  collected  any  information  since  my  last  letter  to  you 

I  think  I  mentioned  having  heard  a  rumbling  noise  at   the  falls  of  Mis- 

souri,  which  was  not  accounted  for,  and  you  accounted  for  them  by  simelating 

them  to  Avelanchers  of  the  Alps. 
I'lease  to  give  my  compliments  to  Geo  Shannon  and  accept  my  sincere  friend. 

ship  I  shall  write  you  again  soon 

Mr.  Biddle  ^"*  ^■'"''' 

The  above-mentioned  map  is  doubtless  that  one  of  which 
the  draughtsman's  (Mr.  Samuel  Lewis')  copy  was  finally 
engraved  and  published  with  the  work. 

I  )ear  Sir  *''  ^°"'*  J'""''  '4'*'    '  ^ " 

I  hope  you  have  received  my  several  letters  my  new  map,  and  sundery  other 
papers  relative  to  such  information  as  I  could  collect,  Inclosed  I  send  you 
some  rough  notes  which  I  made  at  the  Mandans  the  ist  year  of  my  tour,  per- 
haps y.m  may  collect  from  this  something  which  you  may  wish  to  know.— A 
copy  of  these  notes  were  sent  to  Mr.  Jefferson  from  the  Mandans— I  send  this 
as  I  have  sent  several  others  p.ipes  thro'  the  Secty  of  War.  I  should  be  hapy 
to  here  from  you  on  the  subject  of  my  book. 
Accept  the  assurance  of  my  highest  respect  &  esteem 

Your  Friend 

Mr.  Nicholis  Kiddle  ^"^  ^'"''• 

Philadelphia 

We  may  pass  over  several  letters  relating  to  the  prog- 
ress of  the  work  under  Mr.  Riddle's  editorship,  but  mu.st 
include  the  following  announcement  that  he  had  com- 
pleted it— for  this  letter  also  opens  up  the  long  chapter  of 
accidents  that  befell  the  fateful  History. 

Dear  .Sir.  ''*'"'  J^'^  "»•  '^la 

I  have  been  for  some  time  anxiously  expecting  you  in  I'hila,  but  ol)serving  by 
the  papers  that  you  were  at  Louisville  about  the  middle  of  June  I  write  this  in 
expecLition  that  it  will  find  you  in  Pittsburgh 

It  is  now  almost  .1  whole  year  since  on  the  8th  of  Julv  i8ii  I  wrote  to  you 
th,it  I  hiid  completed  the  work  agreeably  to  our  engagement,  \-  was  ready  to 
put  It  to  the  press  whenever  .Mr.  Conrad  chose.  Since  that  time  I  have  been 
constantly  endeavouring  to  commence  the  publication  not  only  from  a  regard  to 
the  interests  of  both  of  us.  but  because  while  this  work  remained  un  my  hands  it 


'1 


¥ 


Ixxxviii 


MI'.MoIk    »)|-    WII.I.tAM    CI.AkK. 


int'^rfercd  very  much  with  nil  my  dIHit  (ui.upfiliorn,  lie^iili-s  thnt  thowork  would 
lose  siina-  of  its  interest  l)y  mi  much  ilelny.  Last  winter  I  was  prevetitcd  from 
({■)in|;  to  the  U-|;i.slature  chieMy  )iy  a  ilcsiru  to  stay  A:  su|>erintcnil  the  printini; 
yet  iiutwithstaiiilii));  all  my  exertions  the  pulilication  has  liuen  prevented  from 
time  to  time  till  at  last  Mr  t'onrad's  dirticultios  have  ohln^eil  him  to  surrender 
everylhiiij;  to  his  credilors  ..V  yixo  up  Imsinos-.,  This  miifortune  is  very  much 
to  be  re^jretteil  on  his  account,  \  I  nm  sorry  that  we  did  not  know  sooner  that 
he  Would  not  lie  aide  to  publish.  Hut  since  thin);s  have  taken  this  turn,  it  i« 
perhaps  better  that  the  printing  was  not  bei^un  than  that  we  should  be  entangled 
with  his  assignees,  since  now  we  can  place  it  in  other  hands.  I  have  alreaily 
spoken  to  Mr  |lra<lford,  mic  if  the  best  booksellers  here,  iS:  if  we  come  to  an 
arrani^einent  he  can  soon  print  the  work.  I  am  in  hopes  that  he  will  take  it  un 
the] same  terms  as  Mr.  Conrnd  did,  but  [V.  O  ]  but  Mf  t'onrail  has  been  so 
embarrassed  \  occujiied  that  they  hive  not  yet  been  able  to  understand  each 
other.  In  a  few  days  however  I  expect  that  some  ajjreeinent  can  be  made  iv: 
then  we  can  proceed  vigorously  &  soon  get  the  volumes  out.    .    . 

I  am  truly  ym 

N.   I!. 

So  thi.s  publisher  failed  and  assigned  just  as  the  book  was 
ready  to  go  to  pres.s — and  as  \vc  shall  sec  another  publisher 
failed  just  before  it  came  out.  liut  those  were  war  times, 
and  nothing  was  secure.     General  Clark   replied  promptly : 

Wasliiiijjton  City  .\\igt.  d'h.  iSij 
licar  Sir 

On  my  arriv.il  .it  thi->  pl.ice  I  reeved  your  letter  of  the  4'h  o(  July,  in  which 
you  inform  me  the  fahie  [l.iilure]  of  Mf.  I'oiiral,  and  the  .State  of  our  work. 
Mf.  I'onrad  has  disapointed  us  both  I  liii  I  ,  he  lias  disapoinled  me  in  a  way  I 
had  not  the  smallest  suspicion  of. 

I  think  we  might  have  e\pccicl  from  him  some  iMtimitioii  of  his  situation 
which  would  [have]  prevented  a  delay  of  the  work — 

I  hope  you  have  suckceeded  i;i  engageing  Mr.  liradfor  1  to  print  the  work  and 
in  makeiiii;  such  other  arrangements  as  you  may  have  thought  best — I  expect  to 
go  on  to  riiikidelphia  i;i  a  week  or  ten  days,  where  I  hope  to  have  the  pleasure 
to  meet  you  ;  as  I  shall  take  Indian  Chiefs  with  me,  it  will  not  be  in  my  ))ower 
to  stay  in  your  City  as  long  as  I  could  wish.  I  must  therefore  intrude  on  your 
goodness  and  assistance 

Mrs.  Clark  and  my  two  scms  came  on  with  Tie  as  far  as  Hagers  Town  from 
thence  they  preceded  to  Col.  Hancocks  to  remain  nntill  our  ileticucltes  are 
adjusted  to  the  X  VV 

Accept  of  my  wormest  Solicitations 

Yours  Truly 

Wm  Clark 
Nicholas  Riddle  Esq 
PhiU. 


i^ 


MI-.MOIR   OK    WILLIAM    <  LARK. 


Ixxxix 


The  course  of  publication  never  ran  more  crookedly  than 
about  this  time,  and  was  as  full  of  shoaU  as  the  Kooskoos- 
kee.  Here  is  an  interestinj;  letter  from  a  yreat  man — one 
who,  however,  was  greater  in  steerinjj  boats  than  books ; 

I'liilatlclphia  Septembur  s<h.  i4i2 
Dear  Sir 

I  liml  till  pleasure  of  receivinj;  ymir  U'tt'.-r  of  the  24<h  ulto.  iwo  days  ago  nt 
ihi-.  plait,  .mil  am  (.■i.trcemly  sorry  thai  you  were  not  in  the  City  liiircini;  the 
time  of  my  remnininu  in  the  place,  which  has  been  four  days,  my  only  Iii<liv(l>. 
tnisine.i  here  was  to  sec  you,  ainl  make  some  arranj;ements  respettinn  tlic  ]iul)- 
licalion  of  the  \v..rlv  (Lewi-,  ami  t'larks  Jouriuil).  Krom  the  situation  of  my 
pul)liik  duties,  I  am  iou\pellei|  to  return  tomorrow  without  elTettinj;  the  objects 
of  my  wishes — I  have  expeited  you  for  two  days,  ami  have  delayed  one  lonjjer 
than  the  Contract  made  with  the  man  to  Carry  the  Indian  Chiefs  to  l'ittsl)urt;h 
autherised — I  am  a  puMiik  oDicer  and  must  move  with  a  parcel  of  people 
(Indians^  who  are  placed  under  my  Cliar^;!-. 

(ant'  I  persuade  you  to  beiouie  /iiliiiitf,/  in  Lewis  and  (larks  work,  I  hope 
you  will  Concent,  and  under  that  ho|>e  I  take  the  liberty  of  offering  you  the  half 
of  every  profit  arising;  from  it,  if  you  will  attend  to  it,  have  it  Cimipleted  as  far  as 
it  i>  ])ossible  and  neces-,ary,  jireuteil  published  \i  .  including  the  advances  which 
have  and  may  be  necessary  iVc.  If  you  will  ai;ree  to  this  jnoposition  (which  I 
hope  you  will)  please  to  write  to  me  at  I'ittsburjjh  or  Louisvilie,  inclose  aj»ree- 
ments  which  I  can  excutee  there  ;  and  I  will  send  you  orders  for  such  specimens 
&c.  as  are  in  the  hancis  of  Mr.  Conr.id  and  other  t»entlemcn  in  this  City. 

Should  you  not  incline  to  become  interested  in  this  way,  be  so  good  as  to 
write  to  me  at  pittsl)urnl\,  and  i;ive  me  your  oppiiiion  on  this  subject. 

I  have  not  seen  Mr.  lira  Ifonl,  thinking  it  proliable  you  v.oiild  become  inter- 
ested and  Coulil  make  a  much  better  bargain  with  him  than  I  could. 

Pocf.  Hartain  [liartonl  says  he  can  do  his  part  in  a  very  short  time,  should 
you  become  illtere^ted  you  will  in  Course  employ  -,ome  other  persons  if  the 
Docf.  should  not  please  you 

I'lease  to  write  to  me  as  soon  as  possible  and  accept  the  assurence  of  my  high- 
est respect  an  '.  F.steem 

\'  most  Ob  He  Sert 

Mr.  Nich'.  liiddle  \Vm  Clark 

It  be^an  to  look  very  much  as  if  no  publisher  could  be 
found  williii;^  to  uiulert.ike  Lewis  and  Clark.     I'or  example  : 

Dear  Sir 

Johnson  iV  Warner  have,  at  last,  positively  declined  maUiiii;  any  sort  of  <ifTer 
for  (ienl  Clarkcs  book,  ^:  from  their  conversation  seem  to  have  so  incorrect  an 
idea  of  the  value  of  the  work  and  probable  profits  arising  from  the  publication 
of  it,  that  it  would  in  my  opinion  be  useless  to  make  them  an  olTer,  there  is  not 
the  s.nalles*  probaliility  of  their  acceiling  to  a   fair  and   re.asonable   one. — Mr. 


y 


xc 


MEMOIR  OF  WILLIAM   CLARK. 


Dobson  also  appears  to  have  little  inclination  to  embark  in  the  woric  and  declines 
making  proposals  for  it — I  can  now,  I  believe,  do  nothing  more  in  the  business 
for  you  or  Genl  Clarke,  unless  you  will  permit  nie  lo  substitute  ailvice  for 
services.  If  I  may  do  this,  I  will  say  very  decidedly,  agree  to  Mr.  Bradfords 
offer.  It  is  I  am  confident  the  best  bargain  you  can  make  for  (lenl  Clarke. — 
The  copy.nght  I  presume  will  be  in  him  (Cienl  C.)  &  I  suppose  he  will  derive 
the  entire  benefit  of  the  sale  of  the  M.  S.  in  England — 

Yours  sincerely 

John  Conrad 
[To  N,  13.]  Philada  Nov  12.  1 812. 

PhiU  Feby  23.   1813 
De?r  Sir 

.  .  .  The  times  have  thrown  some  obstacles  in  the  way  of  our  work  which  have 
prevented  its  making  as  much  progress  as  I  could  have  wished.  Soon  after  you 
left  us  I  consulted  Mr.  Bradford,  but  finding  his  terms  not  such  as  I  thought 
advantageous  I  inaile  jjroposals  to  all  the  booksellers  in  town.  The  stagnation 
in  that  branch  (if  lni>int'ss  however  was  so  great  that  no  one  was  willing  to 
embark  in  it,  and  after  a  great  deal  of  fruitless  negociation  I  was  obliged  to 
return  and  on  the  advice  of  Mf.  Conrad  accept  M'.  Bradford's  proposals.  This 
I  w.is  desirous  of  deferring  in  hopes  of  obtaining  better  terms,  but  none  could 
be  had  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  times.  I  now  wait  only  for  the  engravers  who 
will  soon  I  hope  finish  their  work  and  then  we  can  strike  off  the  printing  im- 
inimediately  iV  in  a  little  time  the  work  will  be  published.  The  agreement  with 
Mr.  Bradford  you  will  see  when  you  arrive,  but  as  I  am  not  sure  whether  you 
are  not   already  on  this  side  of  Washington  I  will  add  no  more  than  that  I  am 

Very  sincerely 

Gen'  William  Clarke  Yrs 

Washington  N.   R 

The  spectacle  of  a  Biddle  begging  all  Philadelphia  to  pub- 
lish Lewis  and  Claik!  Mr.  Conrad's  advice  proved  sound. 
Mr.  Biddle  was  forced  to  Mr.  Bradford's  terms.  These  were 
doubtless  as  liberal  as  the  latter  could  afford  to  make  them 
— for  the  sequel  showed  that  Bradford  and  Inskeep  would 
fail  even  before  they  could  publish  the  book. 

The  next  document  I  possess  is  a  pc  ver  of  attorney — 
ominous  of  much  litigation  to  come  : 

I  William  Cl.irk  .if  the  Missouri  territory  do  hereby  constitute  Nicholas  Hiddle 
of  Philad.i  my  lawful  .\itornty  in  all  tilings  relative  to  my  tr.insactions  with 
Bradford  &  Inskeep  or  any  other  person^  concerned  in  the  publicaticm  of  Lewis 
\'  Clark  s  travels,  and  do  hereby  empower  liini  for  me  to  demand,  recover  iV 
receive  all  my  claims  and  rights  thereto  nr  to  tlie  profits  thereof — make  such 
arrangements  and  commence  such  legal  processes,  consent  to  such  compniiiiises 
as   he   may  judge  proper    \  generally  to  do  every  thing  relative  to  the  said 


MEMOIR   (»K    WILLIAM   CLARK.  xci 

work  as  fully  as  I  could  were  I  personally  present— with  power  also  to  make 
such  substitutes  as  he  may  think  advisable.  Hereby  ratifying  whatever  he  or 
his  substitutes  may  lawfully  do  in  the  premises.  In  witness  whereof  1  have  set 
my  hand  and  seal  hereto  this  29th  day  of  March  1813  at  Philadelphia 


Wm  Clark     -;  Seal.  }• 


Witness  at  signing 

Benji;  O'Fallon 

Meanwhile  the  work  was  put  to  press  by  Bradford  and 
Inskeep.     The  composition  and  presswork  occupied  about 
one  year,  in  the  course  of  which  the  publishers  became 
insolvent,  and  made  an  assignment.     I  have  inspected  the 
original  manuscript  of  the  balance-sheet  headed  "  Dr.  Lewis 
and  Clarks  Travels  in  ace.  currt.  with  the  Estate  of  Bradford 
&  Inskeep,  Cr.,"  showing  every  item  of  debit  and  credit. 
The  net  price  of  the  books  was  $6.00  the  set,  with  various 
discounts  to  the  trade  of  50  per  cent,  or  less.     The  cost  of 
manufacture,  etc.,  was  S3.496.97.     The  total  sales  credited 
amounted  to  S5.535-47.  showing   a   profit.     This,  however, 
was  offset  by  amt.  of  unpaid  bills,  $686.27;  and  of  bad  debts 
and    cops,  not   paid  for,  $1,198.13— altogether  a  debit  of 
•^5.381.37.  against  a  credit  of  $5,535.47,  reducing  net  profits 
to  $154.10.     Whereupon,  one  Paul  Allen  appears  on  the 
scene  for  the  first  time  to  the  naked  eye  of  history,  with 
a  claim  for  alleged  services  of  $500,  or  so  much  thereof  as 
he  had  not  taken  out  in  trade  with  the  publishers  ;  which 
more  than  wiped  out  the  nomiral  credit  of  $154.10.     This 
dismal    story   is    not   quite    told    yet.      The    edition    was 
ostensibly  of  2,000  copies  ;  but  when  the  above-described 
balance-sheet  was  drawn  up,  there  were  392  n(  thetn  lacking 
plates,  probably  not  delivered  because  certain  bills  were  uit 
paid  ;  there  were  35  otherwise  defective  copies,  and  156  copies 
were  missing,  "  supposed  to  be  destroyed  in  binder's  or  print- 
er's  hands."     Deducting   583  copies,  defective  or  missing, 
from  an  ostensible  edition  of  2,000.  it  appears  that  no  more 
than  1.417  perfect  copies  of  Lewis  and  Clark  ever  existed." 

"  For  .in  it<:mi^.-.iion  of  the  .-.bove  account,  .ee  my  nnte  in  the  New  York  Vation  of 
January  ,Ah.  1893.  The  oriRin,,!  number  nf  ..4,7  copies  bec-ime.  in  the  course  of  time  so 
much  re.luce.1  by  or.lm:,ry  «  r;ar  and  tear,  mutilation,  and  destruction,  that  the  price  of  a  perfect 
copy  ha,  rf  late  year,  set, led  somewhere  about  $,o-nu,re  or  less,  a,  cr,rdin«  to  the  respective 
tempers  of  buyers  and  sellers.     What  it  will  rise  or  fall  to  in  .804  remains  to  be  seen. 


/ 


XCIl 


MF.MOIK   OI-    WILLIAM    CI.ARK. 


Thus,  by  dint  of  luck,  pluck,  and  perseverance  on  the 
part  of  the  surviving  author  and  his  steadfast  editor,  the 
History  that  was  to  make  so  much  history  appeared,  in 
February,  1814.  If  we  take  the  day  on  which  was  made  the 
first  sale  credited  in  the  above  account,  as  that  of  actual 
publication,  the  exact  date  was  Feb.  20th,  1814.  Mr.  Hiddle 
soon  afterward  announced  the  fact  of  publication  to  Gov- 
ernor Clark,  as  follows : 


Phila.  March  23,  1S14. 
My  dear  Sir, 

I  havL'  at  la>t  the  [ileasure  of  informing  you  that  the  travels  are  i)ul)lished, 
that  thfV  have  sdUI  vtry  well  1  unclerstaml.  and  liave  hecMi  well  thought  of  by 
the  readers.  Henceforth  you  may  sleep  ujion  ymir  fame,  which  must  last  as 
liinj;  as  Imoks  can  endure.  Mr.  Hradfonl  ha^  I  presume  sent  you  a  copy  of  the 
work.  The  j^entleman  who  received  and  jirepareil  it  for  the  press,  Mr.  Allen, 
is  a  very  capaide  ]ierson  [!],  and  a>  I  did  not  put  the  tinisliing  hand  to  the 
Volumes  1  did  not  think  it  right  to  take  from  him  the  credit  of  his  own  exertion 
and  care  \>\  aunouncini;  personally  tlie  part  wliich  I  had  in  the  com|iilation. 
I  am  content  that  my  trouble  in  the  business  should  be  recognized  only  by  the 
pleasure  which  attended  it  and  also  by  the  satisfaction  of  making  your  acipiaint- 
ance,  which  I  shall  always  value.  I  could  have  wishe<l  that  your  time  had  jier- 
mitted  you  to  revise  the  whole  of  the  work,  as  no  doubt  some  errors  and  inail- 
vcrtencies  have  from  the  nature  of  the  volumes  and  the  circumstances  attentling 
the  publication  crept  into  tlieni.  1  hope  however  that  you  will  not  tind  them 
very  numerous  or  important.    .    . 

Let  me  hear  from  you  /flcn.  Neither  you  nor  I  are  great  letter  writers  but 
I  will  always  be  happy  i^i  learn  that  you  arc  well  and  your  affairs  prosperous, 
with  my  comp'ts  to  Mrs.  Clark  I  am  very  truly. 


N.  Hiddle. 


Cien.  Wni.  <  lark, 
St    Louis. 


Mr.  Ridtilc  doubtless  had  reasons  .satisfactory  to  himself 
for  surrendering  to  another  the  credit  justly  his  own, as  well 
as  for  his  rosy  vision  of  Mr.  Paul  Allen's  abilit}'  ;  but  both 
these  are  beyond  my  comprehension.  General  Clark's 
private  opinion  in  this  matter  is  equally  occult.  We  do 
not  hear  from  him  nn  the  subject  of  the  History,  in  corre- 
spondence with  Mr.  Riddle,  until  Sept.  i^th,  1814,  when, 
in  the  course  of  a  long  letter  from  St.  Louis,  on  military 
and  domestic  topics,  he  simply  says  : 


-  n  "i-r^if*tiiiilHt--  -'  ^^..«.«>^«-|.>. . , 


MEMOIR   OF   WILLIAM    C     \RK. 


XClll 


"  I  have  borrowed  a  Copy  of  my  Book  which  has  reached 
this  place  but  have  not  had  time  to  read  it  as  yet." 

The  rest  of  the  inside  history  of  the  book,  as  represented 
in  this  correspondence,  is  simply  the  dreary  story  of  lawyer- 
ing in  settlement  of  an  insolvent  estate.  Mr.  Biddle  had 
full  power  of  attorney  from  General  Clark,  as  we  have  seen  ; 
he  was  able  and  indefatigable  in  his  efforts  to  protect  and 
benefit  his  client.  The  case  dragged  its  slow  length  along 
till  1818:  and  much  of  the  correspondence  is  between 
the  lawyers  on  each  side.  Charles  Chauncey,  Esq.,  atty.  at 
law :  Thomas  Astley.  ditto  :  Mr.  G.  W.  Thomas  (with  an 
offer  to  take  the  remaining  stock  of  books  on  certain  terms) ; 
Mr.  Mathew  Carey  (publisher  of  the  Phila.  eds.  of  Gass)  ; 
Mr.  Paul  Allen  (whining  in  accents  of  injured  innocence); 
and  others  too  numerous  to  specify,  appear  on  the  scene  ; 
the  arithmetic  of  the  eminent  counsel  for  and  against  the 
estate  of  Bradford  and  Inskeep  fetched  out  variant  sums— 
in  fine,  no  feature  of  total  failure  was  lacking,  for  the  devil 
on  two  sticks  had  stalked  through  the  whole  business.  Far 
from  this  scene  of  legal  action  after  mercantile  disaster,  in 
St.  Louis,  was  General  Clark,  who  seems  to  have  been  slow  to 
realize  that  nothing  can  be  made  of  nothing.  In  1816  he  is 
still  anxious  to  know  how  his  book-property  stands.  One 
letter  brings  up  yet  another  aspect  to  the  case  : 

,,       ...  .St.  Louis  March  31st  1816. 

Dear  Sir 

...  As  Doctr.  Marks  the  half  Prother  of  Cov  Lewis  h-is  expressed  to  me 
in  a  letter  some  concern  about  his  brothers  interest  in  the  Books,  and  asked  of 
me  for  a  jiower  of  Atty.  to  receive  of  tha  pubHsher  the  Hooks  I  must  request  you 
to  deliver  to  the  order  of  his  mother  .Mrs.  .Marks,  such  Books  Papers  iS:c.  as 
you  may  think  Govr  Lewis's  Heirs  shuuld  receive  at  least  fully  the  one  half  of 
my  part.    .    . 

Your  mo.  ub  t  HI  Sert 

t'f""  ^'-  H  J  Wm  Clark 

But  the  half  of  nothing  is  nothing  again  ;  and  having 
already  mentioned  the  fact  that  in  the  final  settlement  of 
the  unhappy  affair.  General  Clark's  total  receipts  were  some 
copper-plates  and  the  right  to  bring  out  a  second  edition— 


XCIV 


MEMOIR   OK   WII.r.IAM    CI.ARK. 


of  neither  of  which  did  he  ever  avail  himself — I  will  con- 
clude a  history  cf  the  History  with  the  following  letter : 

St  Louis  Deer.  28tl>.  1817 
Dear  Sir 

Vour  letter  of  tiie  aist  of  October  informing  me  of  the  State  of  my  busi- 
ness with  the  asse  of  Mess'.  Hradfoni  &  Insl<ee|)  in  relation  to  the  publication 
of  Lewis  &Clarks  Journal  was  only  received  a  few  days  ago;  The  proposition 
made  by  Mr.  Astley  as  recommendt-d  by  you  meets  my  decided  apjirobation  ; 
I  have  written  to  the  mother  of  the  late  Gov'  Lewis  [Mrs.  Marks]  &  sent  her  a 
statement  of  the  accounts,  and  asked  her  to  assent  to  the  arrangement,  This 
measure  is  important  to  nie  as  it  enables  mc  to  satisfy  the  oM  lady  who  I  have 
reasons  to  believe  has  been  persuaded  that  profit  arrising  from  that  work  has 
been  received  I  wish  something  done  with  the  Copy  rights  but  what  should  be 
done  I  cant  say,  must  leave  it  to  your  own  judgement  and  better  experience,  I 
am  realy  sorry  tliat  you  liave  lieen  at  ao  mucli  trouble  in  acting  for  me  I  console 
myself  that  I  may  yet  have  it  in  my  power  to  do  you  a  service  ;  M".  Clark  joins 
me  in  Compliments,  respectfully  to  .Nlrs.  Middle  &  hope  you  will  accept  my  best 
wishes 

Your  Obt  H'e  Servant 

Wm  Clark 

Such  were  the  throes  of  delivery  to  the  world  of  an 
immortal  book.  It  only  remains  for  me  to  close  a  very 
imperfect  memoir  of  one  of  its  authors  by  setting  forth  the 
disposition  made  of  the  precious  manuscripts  upon  which 
the  original  and  the  present  editor  both  worked.  If  the 
patient  re:ider  will  turn  to  the  plate  which  is  bound  in 
front  of  this  Memoir,  he  will  find  reproduced  in  facsimile 
a  letter  from  General  Clark  to  Mr.  Biddle,  dated  Wash- 
ington, 27th  Jany.,  1818,  in  which  the  former  indicates 
his  wishes  in  this  matter,  concerning  those  volumes  of  the 
Journals  and  Field  Notebooks  of  Lewis  and  Clark  which  Mr. 
Biddle  had  in  his  possession,  and  certain  other  manuscript 
records  of  the  Expedition.  All  of  these  writings  were 
deposited  by  Mr.  Hiddle  with  the  American  Philosophical 
Society  in  Philadelphia,  with  the  exception  of  Ordway's 
journal  (presumably  returned  to  General  Clark),  and  pcrhnoi 
with  the  further  exception  of  Gass'  MS.  journal  (to  which 
"11  clew  has  been  lostl.  The  Hiddle  deposit  was  of  fourteen 
^14)  bound  volumes  of   MS.,  the  same  being  two  (2)  small 


:^bdM'<^«;i^i^Wl«iML.&i&«>'iH^ 


MEMOIR   OF    WILLIAM    CLARK.  xCV 

m.-uble-covered  books,  one  (I)  brown  book,  and  eleven  (n) 
r.-d  books  ;  together  with  a  number  of  loose  letters  and 
other  documents.  Meanwhile,  in  November,  1817  Mr 
Jefferson  "  had  deposited  with  the  same  Society  three  (3) 
more  bound  volumes  which  had  been  in  his  hands,  the  same 
being  two  (2)  small  marble-covered  notebooks,  and  one  (i) 
red  book.  A  thirteenth  red  book  was  also  deposited  about 
this  time,  but  by  whom  is  not  now  known;  but  it  seems 
probable,  from  the  letter  of  Mr.  Jefferson  cited  in  the  note 

leavc.      Ihe  Writings  of    Thomas  Jcftersnn,  by  H.  A.  WaHhi.iirton    8v,>    ^,1    ,a.      w     i. 

93,  Letter  to  M.   Dupon,  e.,u.  <late,l   Moniicello,    Nov. -ih,  ,817    sivinir-  -  Aft^r  1„.  ri  m 

uS  9     I'  t.-  •^'■''i'-l.  "f  wh>.:h  I  knew  there  had  been  ten  or  twelve  [there  were  at 

east  .8],  having  nyself  read  then..     These  were  all  she  couhl  tinci.''     Some  f   rtherTiX  i 

hrHrst!,:;  :7t:T  rr " "°. ';  ■■":'  *"■  '■''■■ '-  "■^- '-'--'  •— -  •-  p-'  -  - 

tne  History  ar...  th-  fin.al  deposit  of  the  ,MSS.  with  the  Philosophic  ,1  So.  lelv    l,v  il,„  f  11       ■ 

«t«  from  Mr.  Jeft-rson  to  .;enera.  Clark w  on  file  in  the  \Z:l!:,t^^[^',^^ 

.he  State  Hepartment.     As  it  is  specially  intercstins  in  connection  with  General  (lark's      li^ 

::::^:r:7:Zu:::::r """"  ''-■  '''''-•  -'-  -'-'  - "«'»« ..p^odnced  .„";:;:. 


Dear  Sir 


Monticello,  Sep  8,  1H16 


little 


The   travelling  journal    of  (lovr.    Lewis 


,  .     ,  ,         .  =""'   yurself   having   been  published  some 

..me  ago,  I  had  hoped  to  hear  that  something  was  doing  with  the  astronlmi     I  obs ."'" 

r  ■  ,:r;;Sd:'  ;^::^:' -e^^-rr--- ;;-.--  ...;;,^"...p^f  r  ^ 

intention.  1  got  a  friend  to  apply  for  them  to  mr  Bi  .1  e  in "     .f    h    ,   'sVu^ler  t", H  7""'' 
be.  referring  him  for  authority  ,0  the  instructions  inserted  in  tbHite  ,     (Vvr    lew  "I 

.  .he  vocabularies  to  the  Phiios.  Society ...  p.^ilU' i'l;' ""rdd';:.!:^;::;,::;::;;  ^:n::^ 


and  respect 


,'ou  with  constant  fricmlship 


Gcnl.  Win.  Clarke 


Th  :  Jefferson 


XCVI 


MEMOIR   OF   WII.MAM    fl.ARK. 


below,  that  this  was  one  of  "  four  "  books  deposited  by  Mr. 
Jefferson,  who  certainly  received  that  number  (not  three) 
from  the  executors  of  Dr.  Barton's  estate.  I  have  before  me 
the  orifjinal  and  also  a  copy,  both  in  Mr.  Kiddle's  hand,  of 
the  letter  making  his  own  deposit,  dated  Philada.,  April  6th, 
l8i8.  and  addressed  to  Hon.  Wm.  Til^hman,  Chairman  of 
the  Historical  Committee  of  the  Philosophical  Society; 
item,  a  copy  of  the  receipt  (^iven  by  the  Society  in  accepting 
the  custody  of  these  records."  In  the  terms  of  this  agree- 
ment it  was  expressly  provided  that  William  Clark,  his  heirs 
or  assigns,  were  and  are  always  to  have  access  to  and  use 
of  these  manuscripts  for  the  preparation  of  any  other  edi- 
tion of  the  History.  Maneiit  verba  scripia — the  "written 
words  "  slept  the  sleep  of  the  just,  while  the  printed  words 
went  round  the  world,  during  three-quarters  of  a  century, 
till  one  day  they  awoke  to  a  new  lease  of  life.  The  follow- 
ing letter  requires  no  comment  beyond  my  profound 
acknowledgment  of  its  significance  : 

Saint  Loris,  Nov.  25M,  1892. 
Tresidknt  and  Directors  of  the 

Philosophical  Society. 

i'lENTI  EMEN  :  — 

According  to  the  inventory  .ind  receipt  given  in  1818  by  your  Society  for 
the  papers  an>l  manuscripts  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  explorers  of  the  Missouri  and 
Columbia  rivers,  it  was  agreed  that  the  heirs  of  Genl.  Clark  should  at  .ill  times 
have  access  to  them  for  any  future  edition  of  his  travels. 

Mr.  Elliott  Coues  is  now  eng.iged  in  writing  one,  and  I  request  that  you  will 
let  him  have  access  and  use  of  the  manuscripts  for  that  purpose. 

Very  respectfully, 
[Signed]  Jefferson  K.  Ci.ark, 

(only  surviving  son  of 
General  William  Clark). 

'"  With  recard  lo  this  finishing  of  the  tleposil  of  the  I.,  nnd  C.  MSS,  with  the  Philosophir.il 
Society,  see  ..Iso  Jeff.  P.ipers.  2d  ser.,  Vol.  51,  I>oc.  No.  86,  letter  of  N.  P.idille  to  Win.  Tilgh- 
ni.in.  Phila..  April  loth,  i8t8,  endorst'<I  by  Jno.  Vaugh.in.  Mr.  V.iiighan  w.is  at  the  time  the 
Recording  Secretary  of  the  Historical  and  Literary  Class  of  the  American  Philosophical 
Society.  A  copy  of  the  receipt  he  pave  Mr.  Biddie  is  bef.)re  me,  of  date  April  8th,  1818.  That 
clause  of  this  receipt  which  expresses  the  conditions  of  the  custody  of  the  MSS.  is  in  these 
terms;  "It  is  understood  and  agreed  on  the  part  of  the  Historical  Committee  in  receiving 
these  hooks  and  papers,  that  Governor  William  Clark  his  heiis  or  assigns  shall  at  all  times 
have  the  full  use  of  tljcni  for  any  fiituic  edition  of  his  tr.ivels.  By  order  of  the  Historical 
C'tmrnittee." 


MEMOIR   OK   WII.MAM   CLARK.  xcvH 

My  presentation  of  this  letter,  together  with  a  formal 
request  to  be  placed  in  possession  of  the  MSS.  for  a  limited 
period,  resulted  in  an  immediate  vote  by  the  Society  in  open 
meeting.  Dec  i6th.  ,892.  by  which  the  whole  of  this  material 
passed  mto  my  hands."  The  present  edition  will  show  what 
use  has  been  made  of  a  golden  opportunity  to  prepare  for 
he  twentieth  century  that  History  of  the  Expedition  of 
Lewis  and  Clark  which  Mr.  Biddle  wrought  for  the  nine- 
tcentn. 


> 


1 


MEMOIR  OF  PATRICK  GASS. 

BY  DR.  COUES. 

I  COMPILE  the  following  biographical  sketch  of  the  famous 
I  sh  sergean  .na.nly  from  material  presented  by  one  who 
knew  h,m  well,  Mr.  J.  G.  Jacob,  author  of  The  Life  and  Times 
of  I  atnck  Gass,  c.ted  on  p.  cxxiii,  and  editor  of  the  VVellsbX 
Herald,  of  VVellsburg.  VV.Va.  In  private  correspondenc  mT 
Jacob  mforms  me  that  the  substance  of  it  appeared  in  the 

^jass  was  born  June  12th    itti    -if  1/  n-       l- 
u    I      J  ,-  ■'  '■^tn,  1771,  at  railmg  Snrme-s  Cum 

berland  Co.,  near  what  was  afterward  Chan.bersburg  Fra^^ 
l.n  Co.   Pa.     When  Mr.  Jacob  wrote  of  him,  in  .858  he  was 
Le::'and  cfat'  T'^::'.^^^^'y  '-^^  the'sole  sutlvor 
as  on  shin.    ?h    '  '^'^P^"'^''"^"-     "■"^  -S-  -'^  vitality  were 
astonish  ng.  the  more  so,  considering  the  hardships  he  had 
long  endured  and  his  many  years  of  the  besetting'sin  of  an 
old  sold.er.     In  stature  he  was  low,  having  in  his  most  erect 
m     hood  never  exceeded  f^ve  feet  seven  ;  he  was  compac  ly 
bu.It  broad-chested  and  strong-limbed.  lean  and  wiry    only 
very  late  n.  hfe  was  he  bowed  and  crippled  with  rheulitism 

centur!      H^  .    '.T"'^,  '"''""''^  ^°^  '^''  '^'"'^  ^^  almost  a 
century.     He  died  April  3d,  1870. 

Marvlln?    f''''  ^"'^"'  ""'"'^  ''''''  ^""^^  mountain  into 
Maryland     From  1777  to  ,780  the  boy  lived  with  his  ^rand 

self  that  he  never  learned  to  read,  write,  and  cipher  till  he 
had  come  of  age.      His  next  recorded  move  uas  in   ,780 

^tate  of  he  American  army.  In  ,782  the  family  "  went 
west  -that  IS,  across  the  Alleghenies.  In  ,784  thev 
reached  the  forks  of  Yough,  and  located  near  Unil'tlwn' 


MKMOIR    (»!•    PATRICK    OASS. 


then  called  Rcasontown ;  but  next  year  was  again  "  up 
stakes  "  with  them,  and  they  finally  settled  at  Catfish  camp, 
so  called  from  a  noted  Indian  chief  of  the  time,  and  serving 
as  a  sort  of  halfway  place  between  the  Monongahela  and 
the  Ohio  rivers.  Here  Patrick  seems  to  have  first  developed 
some  of  his  qualities,  for  he  used  to  explore  the  vicinity,  and 
has  left  his  impressions  of  the  site,  as  it  was  in  1790,  of  what 
is  now  Wellsbiirg,  W.  Va.  There  was  at  that  day  but  one 
house,  a  log  cabin,  built  and  occupied  for  many  years  by  one 
Alexander  Wells;  it  was  still  standing  in  185S. 

We  next  hear  of  the  Irish  lad  in  1 792,  when,  having 
attained  his  majority,  he  was  stationed  as  a  soldier  under 
Captain  Caton  at  Yellow  creek,  guarding  the  frontier  against 
Indians.  These  had  long  been  troublesome,  and  were  just 
then  elateil  at  having  defeated  General  Arthur  St.  Clair's 
army,  in  November,  179 1.  General  Anthony  Wayne  was 
sent  against  them,  and  the  militia  all  along  the  frontier  was 
drafted  into  service.  Patrick  had  been  serving  in  the  place 
of  his  father,  who  had  been  drafted  ;  he  was  soon  after 
pressed  into  the  service  himself,  and  stationed  at  Bennett's 
fort,  on  Wheeling  creek,  near  Wheeling ;  but  he  does  not 
seem  to  have  been  in  any  actual  engagement.  Indian  hos- 
tilities were  soon  after  put  down  entirely  and  forever  in 
that  region  by  the  defeat  of  the  redskins  on  the  Miami  by 
General  Wayne,  in  August.  1792. 

While  stationed  at  Wheeling  creek  young  Gass  met  the 
scout,  Lewis  Wetzel,  a  tall,  slim,  dark-visaged  man,  notorious 
for  his  deadly  hatred  of  Indians,  and  credited  by  tradition 
with  having  killed  more  of  them  than  perhaps  any  man  of 
his  time.  They  had  murdered  some  of  his  relations,  and  he 
wreaked  upon  them  a  terrible  vengeance,  which  in  his  case, 
as  in  many  others,  became  a  monomania.  He  used  to  shoot 
peaceable  Indians  on  sight ;  and  on  one  occasion,  being 
arrested  and  jailed  in  consequence,  he  was  released  by  a 
mob — such  being  public  sentiment  on  this  score.  Wetzel 
became  a  boatman,  of  the  kind  facetiously  called  "  half- 
horse,  half-alligator,"  and  died  a  sot  a  few  years  later. 


MEMOIR   OF    PATRICK   GASS. 


d 


Peace  being  restored,  younj^  Gass  became  a  carpenter, 
having;  bound  himself  in  1794  for  two  years  or  more.  He 
built  about  this  time  at  least  one  house  which  was  standing 
in  VVcllsburg  in  1859,  ''"^'  '''^"  worked  on  a  house  for  Mr. 
James  Ruchanan,  father  of  the  boy  who  was  afterward 
Pre;5ident  of  the  United  States,  and  whom  Gass  used  to  call 
"  little  Jimmy."  The  elder  Buchanan  was  an  Irishman  who 
had  emigrated  to  this  country  at  an  early  day,  and  in  York 
county  had  married  a  Miss  Speer,  the  future  mother  of  a 
president.  The  Gass  family  was  connected  by  marriage 
with  the  Speers,  and  Patrick  used  to  say  that  "  little  Jimmy" 
must  have  got  his  qualities  from  his  mother,  as  his  father 
was  more  thrifty  than  statesmanlike. 

About  this  time,  in  1794,  Patrick  met  General  Washington, 
when  the  latter  was  out  with  some  troops  to  suppress  the 
Whisky  Insurrection  of  1794.  His  biographer  remarks  that 
he  "  was  too  much  of  a  patriot  to  resist  the  government,  and 
ho  loved  good  old  Monongahcla  too  well  to  enlist  against 
the  Whisky  Hoys;  so  he  wisely  remained  neutral." 

Gass  seems  to  have  stuck  to  his  trade  for  the  most  part 
till  May,  1799,  when,  under  the  presidency  of  the  elder 
Adams,  a  war-cloud  appeared  on  the  horizon  in  the  prospect 
of  a  rupture  with  the  French.  Throwing  down  his  jack- 
phiiie,  he  enlisted  in  the  19th  Regiment  under  Gen.  Alex- 
ander Hamilton.  He  was  sent  from  Carlisle  to  Harper's 
Ferry  in  June,  1800,  and  was  soon  afterward  discharged 
from  the  service  at  Little  York,  Pa.  But  being  evidently 
"cut  out  for  the  army,"  he  immediately  re-enlisted  for  five 
years  under  Major  Cass,  the  father  of  General  Lewis  Cass. 
His  intelligence  and  other  merits  caused  his  promotion  as  a 
non-commissioned  officer,  and  he  was  intrusted  with  some 
responsible  duties  in  recruiting,  and  in  arresting  deserters. 
His  career  was  about  to  begin. 

In  1801  Gass  went  with  a  company  under  Captain  Bissell 
up  the  Tennessee  river,  and  in  the  autumn  of  1802  Bissell's 
company,  with  a  battery  of  artillery,  was  sent  to  Kaskaskia, 
in  Illinois.     There  they  were  when,  in  the  autumn  of   1803, 


Cll 


MEMOIK   OF    I'ATRICK   GASS. 


a  call  was  made  by  the  government  for  volunteers  to  accom- 
pany the  Expedition  of  Lewis  and  Clark.  Captain  Lewis 
himself  came  tc  Kaskaskia  in  search  of  suitable  material  for 
his  corps ;  and  here  was  the  meetinjj  of  two  soldiers  who 
were  to  tempt  fate  tojjether — Meriwether  Lewis,  American 
j)atrician,  in  commanil,  and  I'.itrick  Gass,  Irish  plebeian,  in 
the  ranks — each  in  his  own  sphere  on  the  very  ed^je  of  fame. 

To  one  of  Gass'  adventurous  and  hardy  nature,  this  was  a 
golden  opportunity.  Of  course  he  instantly  volunteered — 
to  tread  where  white  man  had  never  set  foot  before  seemed 
l^lory  mountain-hi^h.  Hut  he  did  not  very  easily  secure  his 
captain's  permission  to  transfer.  He  was  a  ^'ood  carpenter 
as  well  as  a  pood  soldier,  and  was  wanted  in  the  garrison. 
So  Captain  Hissell  objected.  Whereupon  the  resolute  I'.it- 
rick persisted,  and  havinp  found  out  Captain  Lewis'  where- 
abouts hunted  the  latter  up  and  put  the  case  plump.  The 
result  was  his  enlistment  under  Captain  Lewis,  his  own 
commanding  officer's  objections  notwithstandinp. 

Here  I  send  Sergeant  Gass  to  the  I'acific  ocean  and  back 
to  St.  Louis;  for  I  shall  use  his  Journal  all  through  the 
following  pages  to  check  and  corroborate  the  narrative 
of  his  commanding  officers.  Shoulder-straps  and  chevrons 
understand  each  other  well,  and  the  latter  may  be  heard  to 
advantage  with  the  former.  The  following  e.xtract '  of  a  cer- 
tificate delivered  by  Captain  Lewis  to  Sergeant  Gass,  dated 
St.  Louis,  October  lOth,  1806,  attests  the  high  character  and 
good  conduct  of  this  non-commissioned  ofificer  during  the 
E.xpedition : 

"  As  a  tribute  justly  due  to  the  merits  of  the  .said  Patrick 
Gass,  I  with  cheerfulness  declare,  that  the  ample  support, 
which  he  gave  me,  under  every  difficulty ;  tlie  manly  firmness, 
which  he  evinced  on  every  necessary  occasion  ;  and  the  forti- 
tude with  which  he  bore  the  fatigues  and  painful  sufferings 
incident  to  that  long  voyage,  intitles  him  to  my  highest 
confidence  and  sincere  thanks,  while   it  eminently  recom- 

'  Quoted  from  the  |uilplishcr's  (D.ivid  M'KethaM\)  I'ref.ite  to  tlie  original 
edition  of  Gass'  Journal,  dated  March  26th,  1807. 


! 


MEMOIR  <»F   rATKirK  GASS. 


cm 


itK'iuls  hi-n  to  the  consideration  and   respect  of  his  fellow 

citizens." 

At  St.  Louis,  Gass  and  his  companions  were  of  course 
lionized.  Very  real  lions  they  were,  with  a  story  to  tell  that 
is  immortal.  Gass'  biographer  remarks  upon  the  serf,'eant's 
story,  as  subsequently  published  in  1807,  that  "it  i;ives 
evidence  of  close  observation  and  much  shrewdness  of 
reasonin^^.  It  is  strictly  and  conscientiously  accurate,  for, 
contrary  to  the  received  aphorism  re^jarding  travelers'  tales, 
we  have  never  perused  a  W(.>rk  so  devoid  of  the  ima^jinative, 
or  where  was  m.iiiifested  so  little  desire  to  garnish  plain 
prose  with  poetic  tinsel.  All  is  unpretending  matter  of 
fact.  .  .  We  see  the  atl venturers  just  as  they  were  ;  and 
with  rare  modesty  the  author — although  we  have  authority 
fi.)r  saying  he  w.is  one  of  the  most  useful,  efficient,  and 
intelligent  men  of  the  party — is  kept  strictly  in  the  back- 
ground, or,  if  mentioned  at  all,  it  is  only  incidentally  in  con- 
nection with  some  special  party  of  which  he  was  a  member.  " 

Remaining  but  a  short  time  at  St.  Louis,  Gass  went  to 
Vincennes,  Ind.,  and  thence  to  Louisville,  Ky.,  where,  with 
a  couple  of  comrades,  he  rejoined  Lewis  and  Clark.  They 
had  with  them  a  deputation  of  Indians,  headed  by  a  chief 
called  Big  '.Vhite,  whom  they  were  taking  to  Washington. 
The  party  paid  their  respects  to  President  Jefferson,  made 
tiieir  report  to  the  proper  officials,  delivered  their  specimens 
and  curiosities,  and  were  discharged.  Gass  received  his  pay 
in  gold,  with  the  promise  of  future  consideration,  and  went 
home  to  his  friends  in  Wellsburg.  Here  it  was  that  he 
arranged  with  the  Irish  schoolmaster,  David  M'Keehan,  for 
the  publication  of  his  Journal,  which  appeared  early  in  1S07, 
thus  seven  years  before  Lewis  anil  Ci.irk's  own  narrative  was 
published.  This  prompt  piece  of  work  ended  his  connec- 
tion with  Lewis  and  Clark,  during  which  he  had  spanned 
America  from  the  tide-water  of  the  I'otomac  to  that  of  tlie 
Columbia,  and  thus  formed  a  link  in  the  chain  that  bound 
the  Atlantic  with  the  Pacific  for  the  first  time  in  the  history 
of  the  United  States. 


'/i 


-ya 


CIV 


MEMOIR  OK    PATRICK   GASS. 


Gass  never  exchanged  the  pen  for  the  sword,  for  he  was 
one  of  those  who  are  marked  by  nature  for  heroism  in  very 
humble  life ;  but  he  quickly  threw  down  the  pen  and 
shouldered  the  musket  again.  In  the  spring  of  1807  we 
find  him  a  soldier  still,  and  he  served  at  the  then  frontier 
post  of  Kaskaskia  for  the  next  four  years  of  his  life. 

Embers  of  the  Revolutionary  War  smoldered  till  18 12, 
when  they  burst  into  the  second  War  of  Independence. 
Formal  declaration  of  war  was  made  Juno  18th,  18 12,  under 
the  administration  of  President  Madison.  Shortly  before 
this  Gass  was  at  Nashville,  Tenn.,  where  he  was  drafted 
into  the  regiment  raised  by  General  Jackson  to  fight  the 
Creeks,  during  some  Indian  disturbances  which  had  broken 
out.  He  had,  however,  the  option  of  enlistment  for  five 
years  in  the  regular  army.  This  he  promptly  accepted, 
with  a  bounty  of  $100,  and  marched  north  under  General 
Gaines.  He  was  at  Fort  Massac  in  Illinois,  in  1813  ;  and 
the  1st  of  July,  1814,  found  him  at  Pittsburgh,  in  a  battalion 
under  command  of  Colonel  Nichols,  with  the  Northern 
Army  commanded  by  General  Brown.  He  took  part  in  the 
assault  on  Fort  Erie,  and  was  conspicuous  for  his  bravery  in 
the  famous  battle  of  Lundy's  Lane,  where  he  was  attached 
to  the  2 1st  Regiment  under  the  gallant  Colonel  Miller. 
Gass  is  said  to  have  distinctly  recollected  hearing  Miller's 
memorable  answer,  when  ordered  by  General  Ripley  to 
capture  the  British  battery  :  "  I  will  try,  sir."  Sergeant 
Gass  shoivs  up  gallantly  in  a  sortie  made  on  the  17th  of 
August,  where  he  was  intrusted  with  the  duty  of  s[)iking 
the  enemy's  guns.  His  selection  for  such  duty,  requiring 
cool  courage,  was  a  high  compliment  to  the  sergeant,  and 
shows  the  estimation  in  which  he  was  held.  He  was  dis- 
charged from  the  service  at  Sackett's  Harbor,  in  June,  181 5, 
and  returned  to  Wellsburg  once  more. 

The  war  closed,  and  with  it  Gass'  career.  He  retired  to 
an  obscurity  whence  he  never  emerged.  He  was  past  forty, 
and  had  lived  his  life,  though  his  years  were  not  yet  half 
counted.     He  had  nothing  to  show  for  the  past,  and  nothing 


i 


MEMOIR   OF   PATRICK   GASS.  cv 

but  memory  to  live  on.     His  book  was  financia     '  a  failure 
and  temporarily  forgotten ;  in  fact,  it  has  always  been  rare,' 
and  practically  known  only  to  the  bibliographer.      So  he 
simply  settled  down  to  make  a  living  as  best  he  could,  tell 
his  soldier's  stories,  and  reap  the  wild  oats  he   had  sown 
Having   all    the    "  defects    of    his   qualities,"  he    naturally 
gave  way  to  drink,  and  for  forty  years  was  a  sad  drunkard 
The  marvel  is  that  he  lived  so  long  with  such  habits,  and 
that,  too,  after  he  had  endured  hardship  enough  to  under- 
mine  the  constitution  of  most  men.     He  seemed  made  of 
steel  that  would  neither  break  nor  bend. 

What  romance  may  have  entered  into  the  young  soldier's 
life  we  can  only  infer  from  his  character  and  habits.  But 
love  conquered  the  old  soldier  at  58,  and  he  was  married  in 
1831  to  Miss  Maria  Hamilton.  During  their  married  life 
which  lasted  for  15  years,  till  her  death  in  1846,  Mrs.  Gass 
presented  her  husband  with  seven  children.  "  It  was  cus- 
tomary," says  his  biographer,  "to  joke  the  old  soldier  on 
his  rapid  increase  of  family.  Such  jokes  were  always  good- 
naturedly  received,  and  he  would  characteristically  remark 
that, '  as  all  his  life  long  he  had  striven  to  do  his  duty  he 
would  not  neglect  it  now,  but  by  industry  make  amends 
for  his  delay.' "  He  is  represented  as  being  a  good  husband 
and  father,  kind  and  affectionate  in  his  family. 

To  the  statement  that  Mr.  Gass  never  emerged  from 
obscurity,  one  slight  exception  must  be  made.  He  was 
naturally  interested  in  pension  laws,  considering  that  the 
pittance  he  drew  from  the  government  was  ostensibly  his 
only  means  of  support,  and  that  very  late  in  life,  when  in- 
firmity overtook  him.  he  was  thrown  in  part  on  the  charity  of 
the  county.  In  some  action  taken  by  old  soldiers  Mr.  Gass 
came  to  the  fore,  and  figured  at  the  convention  held  in 
Washington,  January  8th.  1855.  A  call  had  emanated  from 
the  veterans  of  the  war  of  18 12,  who  had  assembled  in  Phil- 
adelphia, January  9th,  1854,  for  surviving  soldiers  to  meet  in 
their  respective  neighborhoods  and  elect  delegates  to  the 
Washington  convention.     Mr.  Gass  had  the  post  of  honor 


CVl 


MEMOIR  OF   PATRICK  GASS. 


at  Wellsburg,  December  25th,  1854,  and  was  one  of  a 
committee  of  three  selected  to  go  to  Washington.  During 
the  convention  they  were  received  by  President  Pierce  and 
his  Cabinet.  The  veterans  memorialized  Congress,  and 
returned  to  their  homes — with  the  usual  barren  result. 

Writing  in  1858,  his  biographer  does  not  hesitate  to  say: 
"  There  is  probably  not  now  living  a  single  man  who  has 
done  so  much  for  the  public  as  Mr.  Gass,  and  received  so 
little.  Among  the  many  unique  features  of  his  character, 
this  is  not  the  least  singular.  He  has  never  been  a  beggar, 
neither  has  he  ever  had  emolument  thrust  upon  him  by  the 
country  he  so  faithfully  served  ;  hence  he  is  both  poor  and 
humble.  He  is  still  living,  December,  1858,  a  hale,  hearty 
Virginia  Democrat  of  the  old  school." 

I  might  have  been  excused  if  at  this  point  I  had  concluded 
my  sketch  with  the  remark  that  no  doubt  Mr.  Gass  soon 
died.  But  I  wished  if  possible  to  complete  the  record  of 
this  wonderful  life.  I  sent  to  Wellsburg  a  letter  of  inquiry, 
which  the  postmaster  was  requested  to  deliver  to  "any 
friend,  relative,  or  descendant  of  the  late  Patrick  Gass." 
This  was  answered  in  a  few  days,  and  my  respondent  proved 
to  be  Mr.  Jacob  himself.  From  him  I  learned  that  Mr.  Gass 
did  not  answer  his  last  roll-call  till  the  3d  of  April,  1870, 
when  he  was  in  his  99th  year.  A  short  time  before  his 
death  he  professed  the  Campbellite  faith,  and  was  baptized 
in  the  Ohio  river  in  the  presence  of  a  large  concourse. 
His  remains  were  interred  in  the  cemetery  at  Wellsburg. 

Thus  ended  a  life  in  some  respects  unparalleled.  Gass 
was  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  men  America  ever  pro- 
duced. Men  have  turned  their  centenary — but  how  many 
have  done  so  after  such  sieges  of  war,  whisky,  and  women  as 
Gass  withstood  for  nearly  a  hundred  years?  It  may  help  us 
to  appreciate  the  duration  of  his  life,  if  we  remember  that 
he  attained  nearly  the  average  [)eriod  of  human  existence  in 
the  eighteenth  century,  and  then  rounded  out  to  the  full  tlie 
traditional  three-score  and  ten  years  in  the  nineteenth. 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL  INTRODUCTION. 


BY   DR.   COUES. 


Publication  of  the  results  of  this  memorable  undertaking 
was  attended  by  the  untoward  circumstances  that  neither 
Lewis  nor  Clark  became  the  ostensible  author,  and  that, 
pending  the  preparation  of  their  MSS.  for  the  press  at  other 
hands,  two  separate  sources  of  incomplete  information  re- 
specting their  Expedition  became  available.  These  were 
eagerly  seized  by  certain  dishonest  publishers,  who  appreci- 
ated the  lively  and  general  interest  which  the  intrepid  ex- 
plorers had  awakened.  The  result  was  the  appearance  of 
several  spurious  books  which  purported  to  be,  in  one  way 
or  another,  the  "Narrative,"  "Travels,"  or  "Journey,"  of 
"  Lewis  and  Clark,"  though  the  claim  of  none  of  them  to 
be  so  considered  rested  upon  any  proper  foundation.  The 
bibliography  of  the  subject,  if  not  more  extensive  than 
would  be  expected,  was  in  a  confused  state,  until  the  appear- 
ance of  my  monograph  in  1876;  and  quotation  of  "  Lewis 
and  Clark  "  has  too  often  been  made  with  reference  to  the 
bogus  books.  I  have  been  led  to  examine  this  matter  with 
care,  and  with  the  result  here  presented,  which  should  place 
the  subject  in  a  white  light.  I  have  examined  almost  every 
edition,  whether  authentic  or  apocryphal,  and  am  able  to 
give  the  titk's  of  others  not  seen.  Probably  the  best  account 
of  these  books,  aside  from  my  special  bibliography  of  1 876, 
is  contained  in  Sabin's  Bibliography  of  Americana,  and 
the  next  in  Field's  Essay  towards  an  Indian  Bibliogra- 
phy. New  York,  8vo,  1873.  The  latter  author  includes  none 
of  the  foreign  versions,  and  omits  several  others  I  have 
seen. 

All  of  the  numerous  editions  and  versions  of  "  Lewis  and 

evii 


cvm 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL   INTRODUCTION. 


Clark"  which  I  have  seen  or  heard  of  may  be  traced  to  one 
or  another  of  three  sources,  namely  : 

I.  'Y\iG  Jefferson  Message  and  Accompanying  Documents. 
(1806.) 

II.  The  6'ajj  Journal.    (1807.) 

III.  The  Biddle  History  of  the  Expedition.     (1814.) 

Of  these,  the  last-named  alone  is  the  complete,  authentic, 
and  authorized  account,  prepared  by  Nicholas  Biddle  from 
the  original  MSS.  of  Lewis  and  Clark.  The  Gass  Journal  is 
a  perfectly  authentic  narrative  of  the  journey,  by  a  non- 
commissioned officer  attached  to  the  party,  but  is  not  a 
"  Lewis  and  Clark."  From  President  Jefferson's  oflficial 
communication,  which  is,  of  course,  exactly  what  it  purports 
to  be,  sprung  a  number  of  books  to  which  the  names  of 
Lewis  and  Clark  are  more  or  less  prominently  attached ;  all 
of  which  are,  nevertheless,  spurious  in  as  far  as  they  claim 
to  be  narratives  of  the  Expedition.  These  three  classes  of 
books  will  be  successively  considered. 


I.— THE  JEFFERSON  PRODROME  AND  THE  APOCRYPHA. 

On  the  19th  of  February,  1806,  the  Expedition  being  then 
at  Fort  Clatsop,  in  Oregon,  President  Jefferson  addressed  to 
Congress  a  communication,  entitled  as  follows  : 

[1806.]     Message  \  from      tJie  \  President     of     the     United 
States  I  commnnieating  \  Discoveries  \  made  in  exploring  \ 
the  Missouri,   Red    River    and     Washita,  \  by  \  Captains 
Lewis  and  Clark,   Doctor  Sibley,  \  and  Mr.   Dunbar ;  \ 
with  I  a  Statistical  Account  \  of  the  \  Countries  adjacent.  \ 
—  I  February  19,  1806.  ]  Read,  and  ordered  to  lie  on  the 
table.  I  —  I  City   of   Washington:  \  A.  &  G.  Way,  print- 
ers.    I  ...  I      1806. 

%vo.   pp.  1-171,  3  /.     {State  Papers.) 

It  is  necessary  to  examine  this  State  Paper  closely,  in  onler  to  see  liow  the 
Apocrypha  depend  upon  it.  The  Message  itself  is  a  curt  official  letter.  (This 
is  also  to  be  found,  unaccompanied  l)y  the  documents,  in  various  places,  as  e.  g., 
in  The  Addresses  and  Messages  of  the  Presidents  of  the  United  States,  etc.,  2d 
cd.,  2  vols.,  8vo,  New  VorU,  Edward  Walker,  I.  pp.  185,  186  ;  in  The  Writings 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL  INTRODUCTION. 


CIX 


of  Thomas  Jefferson,   ed.  by  H.  A.  Washington,   1854,  Washington,  Taylor 
and  Maury,  VIII.  pp.  5g,  60  ;  also,  in  various  eds.  of  the  Apocrypha,  serving  as  a 
dishonest  advertisement  of  the  same.)     Next  comes  :  (l)  A  semi-official  letter  to 
the  President  from  Captain  Lewis,  misdated  Fort  Mandan,  April  17th,  (1.  <•.,  7th) 
1805,   giving  a  progress-report  of  the    Expedition  at  that  date.  &c.    (2)'  "A 
Statistical  View  of  the  Indian  Nations  inhabiting  the  Territory  of  Louisiana  and 
the  Countries  Adjacent  to  its  Northern  and  Western  Boundaries,"  by  Captain 
Lewis,  is  the  second  of  the  accompanying  documents  ;    this  is  an  elaborate  set 
of  statistics  of  various  tribes,  with  miscellaneous  particulars.     It  is  these  last 
particulars— abridged,    mutilated,    and   patched    together— that   constitute   the 
"  Statistical  View  "  printed  in  the  various  Apocrypha.     (3)  The  third  paper  is  Dr. 
Sibley's  "  Historical  Sketches  of  the  Several  Indian  Tribes  in  Louisiana,  south 
of  the  Arkansas  River,  and  between  the   Mississippi  and  the   River  Grand." 
These  Sketches  are  transferred  bodily,  with  some  abridgment  and  mutilation,  to 
the  Apocrypha.     (4)  Dr.  Sibley's  Indian  Sketches  are  followed  by  an  account  of 
Red  River,  in  the  form  of  a  letter  to  General   Henry  Dearborn,   Secretary  of 
War.     This  does  not  seem  to  have  found  favor  with  the  compilers  of  the  Apoc- 
rypha, for  it  is  generally  omitted,  and  an  anonymous  article  entitled  "  Origin  of 
the  American  Indian   Population,"  stolen  bodily  from  Jonathan  Carver,  is  in- 
serted instead.     But  Sibley's  Red  River  is  duly   and  truly  given   in   Phillips' 
English  ed.  of  1807.     (5)   The  fifth  article  consists  of  "  Obser%'ations  made  in  a 
Voyage  commencing   at    St.  Catharine's    Landing,   on   the  East  Bank  of  the 
Mississippi,    proceeding  downwards  to  the    Mouth   of   Red    River,  and   from 
thence  ascending  that  River,  the  Black  River,  and  the   Washita  River 
from  the  Journals  of  William   C.    Dunbar,    Esq.,    and    Dr.  Hunter."      With 
omission  of  some  meteorological  tables  appended  to  the  original,  this  document, 
like  Dr.  Sibley's  Sketches,  is  introduced  into  the  Apocrypha  with  little  change.' 
But   it   is   obvious  that  none  of  these   documents   concerns  Lewis  and  Clark, 
excepting  (i)  and  (2) ;  and  that  only  (i)  of  these  concerns  the  actual  History  of 
the  Expedition. 

The  President's  Message,  with  the  Accompanying  Docu- 
ments, was  reprinted  in  New  York  as  a  pamphlet,  which  I 
have  not  seen;  but  the  title  of  which,  nearly  identical  with 
that  of  the  original,  except  as  relates  to  the  imprint,  is  kindly 
furnished  to  me  by  Mr.  F.  B.  Perkins,  late  of  the  Boston 
Public  Library,  as  follows: 

[1806.]  Mi-ssage  \  from  the  \  President  of  the  United 
States,  I  eominunieating  \  Biseorerirs  \  made  in  exploring 
the  I  Missouri,  Red  River  and  Washita,  \  by  \  Captains 
Lewis  and  Clarke,  Doctor  Sibley  \  and  Mr.  Dunbar ;  \ 
with  I  a  Statistical  Account  \  of  the  \  Countries  adja- 
cent. I  —  I  Read   in   Congress,  February    19,    1806.  i   —  | 


IM 


CX  BIBLIOGRAPHICAL   INTRODUCTION. 

Nezv-  York  :  \  Printed  by  Hopkins  and  Seymour,  \  and  sold 
by  G.  F.  Hopkins.  No.  Ii8,  Pcarl-strect.  \  —  \  1806. 
One  vol.,  %vo,pp.  1 78+1  folded  I.  not  paged. 

Sabin  gives  another  New  York  imprint  of  this,  as  G.  F. 
Hopkins,  1806,  pp.  178  and  folder;  also,  an  edition  described 
as  of  Natchez,  printed  by  Andrew  Marshal,  8vo,  pp.  174, 
reprinted  in  part  in  the  Political  Cabinet,  an  appendix  to  the 
Monthly  Anthology,  Boston,  1807,  later  collected  under 
title  of  American  State  Papers,  Boston,  1808,  pp.  39-92  ;  of 
these  I  know  nothing  further.  In  London,  the  President's 
Message,  with  the  Accompanying  Documents,  was  repub- 
lished in  a  faithful  reprint  under  a  modified  title,  as  follows  : 

[1807.]  Travels  \  in  the  \  Interior  Parts  of  America  ;  \  com- 
municating I  Discoveries  \  made  in  Exploring  \  the  Mis- 
souri. Red  River  and  Washita,  \  by  \  Captains  Lewis  and 
Clark,  I  Doctor  Sibley,  \  and  \  Mr.  Dunbar ;  \  luith  \  a 
Statistical  Account  \  of  the  \  Countries  adjacent.  \  —  ]  As 
laid  before  the  Senate,  \  by  the  \  President  of  the  United 
States.  I  In  February,  1806,  |  and  never  before  published 
in  Great  Britain.  \  —  |  London :  \  Printed  for  Richard 
Phillips,  6.  Bridge  Street,  \  Blackfriars,  \  By  f.G.  Barnard, 
57,  Snow-hill.  I  —  I  1807. 

%vo.,  pp.  1-24,  then  a  folding  table,  then  pp.  17-116. 
Forming  a  part,  separately  paged,  of  Vol.  JV.  of  Phillips' 
Collection  of  Modern  and  Contemporary  Voyages,  &c. 

The  contents  of  this  tract  are  as  follows  :  Title,  backed  blank,  pp.  i,  2  ; 
Jefferson's  Message,  pp.  3,  4  ;  Extract  of  a  Letter  from  Captain  Lewis  to  Presi- 
dent Jefferson,  being  the  Fort  Mandan  letter  of  Apr.  "  17th,"  /.  f.,  7th,  pp.  4-7; 
A  Statistical  View  of  the  Indian  Nations,  etc.,  by  Captain  Lewis,  pp.  7-24, 
table,  and  pp.  17-39  •  Historical  Sketches  of  the  several  In<lian  Tribes,  etc.,  by 
Doctor  Sibley,  pp.  40-74  (including  an  account  of  the  Red  River,  etc.,  in  a 
letter  to  Cjen.  Henry  Dearborn,  from  Dr.  Sibley)  ;  Observations  made  on  a 
voyage  commencing  at  St.  Catharine's  Landing,  etc.,  by  William  Dunbar,  Esq., 
and  Dr.  Hunter,  pp.  74-113  ;  Meteorological  Observations,  by  the  same,  pp. 
I14-116.  Thus,  as  will  be  seen  by  comparing  the  synopsis  given  of  the  original 
(l8o6)  Message,  etc.,  this  tract  is  genuine,  in  the  sense  that  it  is  exactly  what  it 
purports  to  be.     But  the  Lewis  and  Clark  matter  only  occupies  pp.  4-24,  table. 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL   INTRODUCTION.  cxi 

and  pp.  17-39,  the  rest  of  the  volume  being  Sibley's,  Dunbar's,  an.l  Hunter's 
matter,  relating  to  other  affairs,  an.i  to  a  different  expedition  ;  though  throuch- 
out,  the  words  "  Lewis  and  Clarke"  appear  as  signature-marks  on  the  first  leaf 
of  every  sheet  (back  lower  margin  of  pages  9,  17,  25.  etc.),  and  p.  116  has  as 
colophon  "  End  of  Lewis  and  Clarke's  Travels."  This  is  not,  however  inten- 
t.onally  wrong,  being  merely  a  sort  of  printer's  mark  to  keep  together  the  various 
documents  of  the  Jefferson  Message  in  Phillips'  Collection  of  Voyages.  Vol.  Vl'. 

From  this  official  Prodrome,^  the  earliest  available  source 
of  much-desired  information,  books  quickly  sprung    which 
however   modified  in  title  or  in  contents    with   successive 
editions,  are  essentially  the  same.     These  are  mostly  anony- 
mous as  to  author,  compiler,  or  editor;  and    though  con- 
taining matter  of  intrinsic  merit  and  interest  for  the  time 
they  are  all,  as  just  stated,  spurious  in  as  far  as  they  pretend 
to  be  "  Lewis  and  Clark,"  and  therefore  properly  to  be  styled 
the  Apocrypha.     These  books  consist  chiefly  of  accounts  of 
the    Indians,  in    part    compiled    from    the    three    sources 
indicated  in  the  title  of  the  President's  Message  ;  but  most 
of   the   Indian   matter   is  simply  a  mutilated  and   garbled 
version  of  Jonathan    Carver,  padded    with    an    account    of 
the  Knisteneaux   and    Chippeways.    from  Alexander  Mac- 
kenzie.    The  curious  essay  entitled  "  Origin  of  the  American 
I  opulation."  and   credited    to   an   anonymous   "  ingenious 

P^'DerTrnl'"""!  ""''"""""'  ,^"""«<'""'«  '"bjectmay  be  no.iced  the  following  Sta.. 
I  aper-m  some  evidence  against  the  proverbial  ingratitude  of  republics  : 

UnCty  .\  A.  &-!.,.  II  ay.  |  .  .   .  |  ,307.     Sv„.  /./>.  ,-8.  ■  leaf  foUhJ. 

Ih.s  IS  a  rare  tract,  hard  to  find.     Mr.  A,  R.Spofford  showed  me  the  only  copy  I  have  seen, 
Contit^       r'         ,""'-'""•     "^y  """"'"''  "'  ■■  '■>  ''""-■^  "'  "-■  ^^"'-  Alston,  jun..  dated 

^f  Z  an  rchl'T  ",  ■'  "°';  "."'  '"■"'^'^''  "'  '''''■  ^''1""""«  certain  informa.ion 
o  Le«„  and  Clark  s  Expedition.  (,)  Letter  of  Gen,  H.  Dearborn,  in  reply,  dated  War 
n  par  ,„en..  Jan.  „th  .807.  transmitting  to  the  Committee  a  copy  of  Captain  Lewl'muste- 
..11  of  l„s  party  together  with  a  copy  of  his  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  War  relative  to  tbT"  .me 

p.  .67  and  pp  ,54..5,  of  the  present  work).     Gen.  Oearborn's  proposition  for  erants  of  land  to 

:;7o?.b'e  o'n  r^-'"'  f  ^  '■^"^■''''"" " '-  '^-^  '""'■-"■  ••^^^  .He  nb;::  7f  opo 

P  ^!.e  ,  ?  ,:,  at  r'T  1  ,""""""•  '  «^""  "•  "'"^  -"-commissioned  officer  and 
«i  h  h,  !n V  ;  f  n"''  =  '"  '""""•■""  ^"'•'^'"='  "<  '■«»:  ^"J  •"  captain  Lewis,  of  ..500. 
«  th  the,ad,i,„on  of  double  pay  to  each  while  engaged  in  the  enterprise"  The  Secrota  H 
V>  ur  adds,  ha,  Captain  Lewis  objected  to  receiving  any  more  land  than  should  be  gr  ,  d  also 
to  Captain  Clark.  The  folding  sheet  which  forms  part  of  this  trict  is  C  int.in  ™  f  ""^  .  " 
roll,  printed  very  closely  after  the  autograph  MS.  \-he  m: :Z::t:^Z^7:o::::^Z 
accompanied  p.issed  and  became  an  Act  of  Congress.  aocuments 


wm 


cxn 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL  INTRODUCTION. 


1*5  1: 


traveller,"  is  stolen  bodily  and  copied  word  for  word  from 
Jonathan  Carver's  "  Travels,"  etc.,  of  which  the  third 
edition  appeared  in  1781  ;  being  Chap.  I.  of  that  part  of  his 
book  subtitled  "  Of  the  Origin,  Manners,  Customs,  Religions, 
and  Languages  of  the  Indians,"  occupying  pp.  1 15-139  of 
the  Phila.  ed.  of  1796 — as  anyone  may  see  by  making  the 
comparison.  Here  the  plagiarism  is  barefaced ;  but  else- 
where it  is  disguised,  and  some  little  patience  is  required  to 
discover  the  full  proportions  of  the  scheme  to  make  Carver's 
old  work  pass  for  Lewis  and  Clark's.  It  is  really  a  notable 
literary  forgery,  in  constructing  which  the  operator  even 
went  so  far  as  to  cut  out  of  Carver's  narration  names  which 
would  serve  to  identify  tribes  of  which  Carver  treated,  in 
order  that  what  was  said  of  them  might  be  misapplied  to 
other  tribes  met  with  by  Lewis  and  Clark.  This  miserable 
trick,  by  which  Carver  was  robbed  and  ethnology  travestied, 
has  misled  every  bibliographer.  I  myself  was  at  a  loss  to 
account  for  much  of  the  matter  of  the  Apocrypha,  when,  in 
1876,  I  prepared  my  original  bibliography.  Some  of  the 
Apocrypha  are  illustrated  ;  others  are  not.  The  titles  and 
captions  are  well  contrived  to  make  them  appear  as  the 
work  of  our  authors.  The  Apocrypha  were  not  wholly 
superseded  by  the  appearance  of  the  authentic  History  in 
1 8 14,  but  continued  to  be  published  at  least  until  1840, 
though  they  are  now  scarce  and  seldom  if  ever  quoted. 

Two  editions  of  the  Apocrypha  appeared  the  same  year 
in  England  and  America.  They  are  very  similar,  but 
not  identical.  I  do  not  know  which  has  actual  priority, 
but  suppose  that  the  English  was  taken  from  the  American. 
The  title  of  the  English  8vo,  1809,  is  as  follows  : 


[1809.]     T/te  I  Travels  \  of\  Capts.  Lczvis&  Clarke,  \  from  \ 
St.  Louis,  by  way  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  rivers,  \  to 
the  I  Pacific  Ocean ;  \  performed  in  the  years  1804,  1805,  &• 
1806,  I  by  order  of  the  \  Government  of  the  United  States.  \ 
Containing  \  delineations  of  the  manners,  customs,  \  religion, 
&c.  I  Of  the  Indians,  \  compiled  from  \  Various  Authentic 


niHLIOGRAl'HICAI,   INTRODUCTION.  cxiii 

Sources,  and  Original  Documents,  \  and  \  A  Summary 
of  the  Statistical  View  of  \  the  Indian  Nations,  \  from  the 
official  communication  of\  —  \  Meriiuether  Lezvis.  |  —  | 
Illustrated  -with  a  Map  of  the  Country,  inhabited  by  the 
\  Western  Tribes  of  Indians.  \  —  |  London  :  |  Printed  for 
Longman,  Hurst,  Rees,  and  Ormc.  \  Paternoster  Roxv.  \ 
1809.  I  ' 

One  vol.,  %vo,  map  {frontisp.\  pp.  i-x,  1-309.  {No  illus- 
trattons  except  the  map.  No  copyright.  Title-p.  backed 
''Irintedby  C.  Sto7i'cr,  Paternoster-Roxc',  London,"  and  the 
same  reset  on  p.  309.) 

The  composition  of   this  motley  volume  is  as  follows  :     After  frontispiece 
map)and  ntle.page  comes  :  (,)  "  Message  from  the  President,  to  the  Senate  and 
House  of  Representatives  of  the  United  States."  pp.  iii,  iv.    (2)  "  Introduction." 
anonymous,  pp.  v-,x.    (3)  '•  Travels  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,"  pp.  i-,,;,  purporting 
to  be  by  Captam  Lews.     Not  a  word  of  this  audacious  forgery  is  by  or  fron> 
CaptamLew,s.     .Some  of  it  is  garbled   from  Gass  ;    two  authentic  and  genuine 
ette^  of  Captam  Clark,  to  his  brother  George  Rogers  Clark  and  to  Governor 
W.  H.  Harrison,  respectively,  are  interpolated,  ending  on  .,.  24  ;    then  comes 
pp.  25-117.  the  great  theft   from  Jon.ithan  Carver,   ingeniously  mutilated  and 
garbled,  m  order  that  it  might  be  palmed  off  as  Lewis  an<l  Clark  matter      Next 
wehave(4).  PP.  117-156.  an  account  of  the  Knisteneaux  and  Chepewyan  Indians 
summanzed  from  Alexander  Mackenzie  (1789),  and  duly  cre.lited  to  him.     Then 
comes_(5),  pp.  ,57-183,  a  "  Statistical  View  of  the  Indians,"  b.tsed  upon  Captain 
Lewis  paper  of  like  title  in  the  Jefferson  Message,  but  abridged,  mutilated    and 
patched  together;   (6)  then  follows,  pp.  ,84-2,0,  -Historical  Sketches  of  the 
Several  Indian  Tribes  in  Louisiana,  South  of  the  Rakans.is  [Arkansas]  River 
and  between  the  Mississippi  and  River  Grand  [Rio  CJrande]  "  which  is  by  Dr' 
S.bley,  though  not  so  stated,  being  the  third  paper  accompanying  the  Jefferson 
Message,  w,th  some  mutilation;    (7)    then  continues,  pp.   2,1-237,  an  anony- 
mous essay,  /...Jonathan  Carver's,  on  the  "  Origin  of  the  American  Indi.-,n 
lopulafon   ;  (8)  then  concludes,  pp.  238-309,  the  fifth  of  the  papers  accompany, 
nig  the  Jefferson  Message,  namely:    "Observations  made  on  a  voyage    com- 
mencing  at  .St.  Cttharine's  Landing,  on   the  East  Bank   of   the    Mississippi 
proceeding  downw..rd  to  the  mouth  of  Red  River,"  etc.,   extracted  from  the 
Journals  of  William  C.  Dunbar,  Esq.,  and  Dr.  Hunter.     Such  is   the  dishonest 
patchwork  which  was  paraded  under  a  title  devised  t,.  make  it  appear  to  be  the 
Travels  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  and  to  be  by  Captain  Lewis  himself.     As  remarked 
of  this  book  by  Rees,  editor  of  the  London  e.litions  (410,  ,8,4,  and  3  vols  Svo 
l8l5)of  the  authentic  History  :   "  As  farasrelates  to  Lewis  and  Clarke's  Travels' 
this  work  is  not,  however,  what  it  pretends  to  be,   for  it   contains  no  further 
account  of   them  than  was  contained  in  the  above  mess.ige  [/.  e..  President  Jef- 
ferson's], and  some  j.rivate  letters  of  Captain  Clarke,  addressed  to  his  friends 


CXIV 


HIBLIOGRAPHICAI,   INTRODUCTION. 


I 

i; 


before  an<!  after  his  return.  Hut,  in  other  respects,  it  is  of  considerable  value, 
the  other  documents  inserted  in  it  being  curious  and  contained  in  no  other  Eng- 
lish publication." 

The  corresponding  American  edition,  in  i2mo,  1809,  of 
which  I  have  several  copies  before  me,  is  as  follows : 

[1809.]  The  I  Travels  \  of\  Capts,  Lex^'is  &  Clarke,  \  by  order 
of  the  I  Government  of  the  United  States,  |  performed  in 
the  years  1804,  1805,6'  1806,  |  being  upxvards  of  three  thou- 
sand miles,  from  \  St.  Louis,  by  way  of  the  Missouri,  and 
1  Columbia  Rivers,  to  the  \  Paeifiek  (Wan:  |  Containing 
OH  Aeeount  of  the  Indian  Tribes,  li'ho  inhabit  \  the  Western 
part  of  the  Continent  unexplored,  \  and  unknown  before.  \ 
With  copious  delineations  of  the  manners,  cus-  \  toms,  re- 
ligion,  &c.,  of  the  Indians.  \  Compiled  \  From  various  au- 
thentic sources,  and  Documents.  \  To  which  is  subjoined,  \ 
A  Summary  of  the  Statistical  Jlew  of  the  Indian  \  Na- 
tions, from  the  Official  Communication  of\  —  |  Merinether 
Lewis.  I  —  I  Embellished  tvith  a  Map  of  the  Country 
inhabited  by  \  the  Western  Tribes  of  Indians,  and  five 
Engravings  \  of  Indian  Chiefs.  \  —  |  Philadelphia :  Pub- 
lished by  Hubbard  Lester.  \  .  .  .  .  |  1809.  |  Price — 
I  dollar  62  Vj  cts.  \ 
One  vol.,  \2ino,  pp.  i-xii,  13-300, ///.  5,  map,  and  tail-piece 

{scroll  and  pen).     {Copyright  dated  April  1 7,  i  S09.) 

The  composition  of  this  wretched  meretricious  compilation  is  \ery  much  the 
s.ime  as  that  of  the  foregoing,  of  which  I  siiiipose  it  to  be  really  the  parent,  as 
it  seems  to  have  been  publi>he(l  as  early  as  April.  The  typography  of  the  title- 
page  is  ingeniously  so  arranged  as  to  make  it  ajijiear,  at  tirst  sight,  that  Meri- 
wether Lewis  is  the  author  of  the  book.  The  title-jiage  is  followed  by  Lester's 
copyright.  Then  comes  the  "  recommemlatioii "  from  President  Jefferson, 
artfully  twisted  into  a  recommendation  of  the  book  itself.  A  mutilated  version 
of  Jefferson's  Message  succeeds.  Then  comes  the  compiler's  introduction,  con- 
.sisting  of  some  meditations  on  the  value  of  geographical  knowledge,  and  a  state- 
ment, from  some  person  unknown,  of  the  commerce  of  the  Missouri.  The 
running  heads  of  the  pages  to  p.  153  read,  "  New  Travels  among  the  Indians." 
This  part  of  the  book  is  meant  to  pass  for  Lewis  and  Clark's  Narrative  ;  the 
anonymous  compiler  audaciously  opens  with  the  now  familiar  "  On  the  14th  of 
May.  181)4.  we  embarked  from  St.  Louis,"  etc.;  but  mo?,t  of  this  matter  is  stolen 
from  Jonathan  Carver,  as  already  sufficiently   indicated.     The  other  pieces  are 


4 


i 


UrBLIOGRAPHICAL   INTRODUCTION.  cxv 

«hin«  .hat  prec  .  Ve     hi r  i  7  I"  """'  ''""'^"'  '^"""'=^"""  """  -X' 

their  sever  I  off    H„,   .bub  L  !  "'"'"'''"  '""'*  "'"'^'''  ^'"' 

loyal  British  .^^^^^^^^T'  '"""^""f  "[-'"^  ^"--^  -ti.ens  a„,l 

very  readable  bo  k     as  n  irll      ,     ,7  ""', *"'^''  "-""''•  '"'''-■-'■  "^^^  -<-• 

We  have  next  to  notice  two  Baltimore  editions  o"  the 

Apocrypha    pubhshcd    by   Fisher.     None    of    the   former 

ed.tors  of  Lewis  and  Clark  alludes  Lo  these  bookl  norTe 

hey  represented  in  Field's  bibliography.     I  have  before  me 

/rrtz./.r  I  of\  Captains  Lc^vts  and  dark,  I  i„  the  years 
'7;'Vr  ^'^';-'''«'-' '^''^/ I  tis  source-o/the  various  tribes 
r«j/^w^_^^,/_,/,,,,^,,^,  J  _,.^„,,,,^^^^  _  ^^  and  silver 
nnnes-annnal  and  ve,..  |  ,.,/,  producLs  Xil  ^ 

Ztrti'L~  '     ;^'"""7'-  '  ^^-'^^•^^^Anthonj.Miiten. 
f^^rgir,  l-or  the  purchasers.  \  1812. 

<?'/^  vol.,  i2,no,  2 portraits,  pp.  v-xv,  16-326. 

Fornote  on  this,  see  next  eilitinn    iSn      ci-       • 
thing  that  seems  t;  be  like  th      T,',,       ,'    ■""  ^'"''  '"''^"  ^•"'^''"-  ^V-  somc- 
'312.  pp.  300    with  tv     w  o     \        "       ""'""'  ''''"''^'^'='i"'i».  J-'>-  Sharan, 
■ie.phil'issL  ,.  the  nsLr^ri      '^"'""  '^  ""   '  '^^'^  "^^^  -"  ">'^  ^'>i'- 

f  '  f  I  <^/''"'';  ^^:^v.  ,r;/./a,rXv,  I  inthejrars  ,804-5 

--6   1  ^;.v.,../..,/^,/  description  of  the  river  JPiZl} 

and\  Its  souree-of  the  various  tribes  of  Indians  t^Zl 

I  u>hu-h  they  passed~,uanners  and  eustoms-soil  |  -fl 


iva^ 


CXVl 


lUBLKHlRAI'IIUAl.    INTRODUCTION. 


if     I 


mate — commfrcc — i^oU  and  silver  \  mints — animal  and 
vegetable  \  productions.  \  Interspersed  \  With  very  enter, 
taining  anecdotes,  and  a  variety  of  \  other  useful  and 
pleasing  information,  re-  \  markably  calculated  to  delight 
and  I  instruct  the  readers.  \  To  which  is  added  \  A  com- 
plete Dictionary  of  the  Indian  tongue  \  —  \  hy  William 
Fisher,  Esq.  \  —  |  Baltimore  :  \  printed  and  published  by 
P.    Mauro,  I  No  lo,  North  Hozuard  St.  \  1813. 

One  vol.,   \2mo,  portraits  /  pp.  iii-xii,   13-262,  tvith   3 
full-page  -a'oodcuts.     i^No  copyright.) 

William  Fisher,  Esq.,  must  have  been  a  bold  man,  and  he  may  not  have  been 
a  bad  man  too.  Whereas  the  cuiiipiler,  editor,  thief,  or  whatever  he  may  have 
been,  of  the  London  and  I'hila(lel|>hia  editions  of  iSot^,  retired  behind  nn  anonym, 
William  Fisher  not  only  stole  his  [iroduLtion  bixlily,  and  gave  it  anotlier  name, 
but  also  formally  announced  himself  .is  the  author  of  tin-  same;  for  the  edition 
of  1813  is  a  literal  reprint,  .-is  nearly  as  may  be,  of  that  of  i8o<j,  published  Viy 
Lester  in  I'hiladelphia.  The  edition  of  1813  is  nearly  another  reprint  ;  the  title 
reads  substantially  the  same,  thout»h  the  typography  of  the  title-page  is  entirely 
different.     In  this  edition  "  Master  Neddy  "  is  dropped. 

In  the  interval  between  1813  and  1840  there  may  have 
been,  and  probably  were,  other  editions  of  the  Apocrypha ; 
but  the  following,  published  by  Ells  at  Dayton,  O.,  1840,  is 
the  only  one  I  have  seen  or  heard  of : 

[1840.1  The  I  Journal  \  of  \  Lctcis  and  Clarke,  \  to  the  Mouth 
of  the  Columbia  River  \  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains.  \  In 
the  years  1804-5,  6*  6.  I  Giving  a  faithful  description  of  the 
River  Missouri  \  and  its  source — of  the  various  tribes  of 
Indians  \  through  ivhich  they  passed — manners  and  cus-  \ 
toms — soil — climate — commerce — gold  and  \  silver  mines — 
animal  and  vegetable  \  productions,  &c.  \  New  Edition, 
ivith  Notes.  I  Revised,  corrected,  and  illustrated  'with 
numerous  \  wood  cuts.  \  To  ivhich  is  added  \  a  complete 
dictionary  of  the  Indian  tongue.  \  —  |  Dayton,  O.  \  Pub- 
lished and  sold  by  B,  F.  Ells.  |  John  Wilson,  printer. 
I  ....  1  1840. 

One  vol.,  \6mo,  pp.  i-xii,  \  1-240,  portraits  of  Lcivis  and 
Clark,  and  14  other  full-page  woodcuts. 


BIHLIOGKAl'HICAL   INTRODUCTION. 


CXVll 


The  ailverti.ienieiit  >if  the  proprietor  of  thl»  edition  »*y%  .  "The  great 
(ieniaixl  for  the  Journal  of  I.ewii  \  I'larkc,  h.iH  inilucv<l  the  repulilication  of  tlie 
work,  with  the  aiKlitioiii  of  extenilve  ami  intereitiiig  notes,  and  numerous 
illustration!)  on  wood.  We  have  divided  the  work  into  Chaptersi,  with  appro- 
pri.ite  captions,  corrected  much  that  was  erroneous  in  the  Topography,  and 
especially  in  the  Nonicncluture  and  Orthography  of  the  Proper  Names,  nnd  the 
l'hilolo(;ical  errors  (of  which  there  were  many,)  have  been  corrected,  where  it 
could  1)6 done,  without  too  materially  infringing  the  text."  Hut  this  volume,  aside 
from  changes  in  the  general  make-up,  addition  of  talile  of  contents,  insertion 
of  wood-cuts,  and  the  minor  points  noteil  in  the  advertisement  just  quoted, 
is  the  same  as  its  I'hiladelphia  and  London  prototypes  of  1809,  and  the  Haiti- 
more  steals  of  l8ia  and  1813,  notwithstanding  the  notahle  modification  of  title, 
by  which  it  attempts  to  lay  still  stronger  claim  to  be  the  authentic  "  Narrative," 
and  by  which  perhaps  it  aoiuired  an  undeserved  copyright.  The  standing 
heads  of  the  pages,  throughout  the  volume,  are  the  words  "Journal  of  Lewis 
and  t'larke."  The  aildition  of  "a  complete  dictionary  of  the  Indian  t<mgue," 
as  per  the  title,  is  a  false  claim  (as  it  was  in  Fisher's  case),  as  this  "dictionary" 
is  simply  the  glossary  (.Me.xander  Mackenzie's)  of  Knisteneau  words  and  phrases 
which  was  contained  in  the  editions  of  i8<x).  'I  he  notes  aililed  would  prob- 
al)ly  be  called  "  extensive  and  interesting"  only  by  the  publisher.  The  volume 
closes  with  an  appendix,  containing  some  irrelevant  anecdotes,  not  entirely 
the  same  as  those  of  the  l8o()-l8l2-l8l3  editions;  "  Ma;iter  Neddy"  being 
repKiced  by  a  story  about  a  "  Clreat  .Xfrican  Serpent,  killed  by  Kegulus,  the 
Roman  (ieneral."  The  illustrations  are  most  of  them  additional  to  any  I  have 
seen  elsewhere. 


II.— THE    G.\SS   JOURNAL. 

This  publication  is  perfectly  authentic,  in  the  sense  that 
it  is  exactly  what  it  purports  to  be — a  narrative  of  the 
Expedition,  by  a  known  person  who  accompanied  Lewis 
and  Clark ;  though  it  is  not,  nor  does  it  pretend  to  be,  the 
journal  of  his  leaders.  Patrick  Gass  was  an  intelligent  and 
observant  person  of  very  limited  education,  who  kept  a 
diary  of  his  own,  in  which  events  of  the  journey  and  their 
impressions  upon  the  writer  were  recorded  from  day  to  day. 

His  general  good  character  and  the  faithful  and  edficient 
service  he  rendered  are  formally  certified  by  Captain  Lewis. 
The  Gass  Journal  is  a  plain,  straightforward,  and  connected 
account.  It  serves  as  a  valuable  check  upon  the  narrative 
of  Lewis  and  Clark  itself,  in  the  minutiae  of  dates,  names, 
places,  etc.,  and  on  this  account  may  not  inaptly  be  termed 
the  Concortiancc.     Gass  had  kept  notes  during  the  entire  Ex- 


CXVIU 


BIBLIOGRArmCAI.    INTRODUCTION. 


pedition,  but  they  were  not  in  shape  for  publication  ;  and  as 
his  limited  education  prevented  him  from  arranging  them 
for  the  press,  he  secured  the  literary  services  of  an  Irish 
schoolmaster,  David  M'Keehan.  The  result  was  the  Pitts- 
burgh book  of  1807.  cited  below.  M'Keehan  presented  his 
m;  terials  in  the  raw,  stating  in  his  preface  that  "  neither  he 
or  Mr.  Gass  had  attempted  to  give  adequate  representations 
of  the  scenes  portrayed."  Gass  received  as  his  share  of  the 
work  the  copyright  and  100  copies  of  the  book  ;  M'Keehan 
had  the  balance  of  the  edition,  which  he  sold  at  some  profit. 
Gass'  Journal  was  superseded  by  the  publication  of  the 
liiddle  History  ;  I  know  of  no  edition  later  than  1812,  though 
Sabin  cites  one  of  181 5.  I  have  handled  five  editions  of  this 
Concordance,  namely:  Pittsburgh,  i2mo,  1807;  London, 
8vo,  1808;  Philadelphia,  i^nio,  1810,  181 1,  and  1812  ;  and 
French  version,  8vo.  18 10.  Excepting  the  French,  they 
only  differ  from  each  other  in  details  of  typography,  and  are 
nothing  more  than  reprints,  though  some  of  them  are  illus- 
trated, others  not.  All  the  American  editions  are  in  fact 
identical  books.  I  have  minutely  compared,  for  instance, 
the  Philadelphia  edition  of  l8l  I,  with  the  Pittsburgh  princeps 
of  1S07,  and  find  them  not  only  page  for  page  the  same 
(i-viii,  g-262),  but  paragraph  for  paragraph,  word  for  word, 
and  almost  point  for  point.  I  never  saw  books  more  exactly 
alike,  when  the  type  had  been  reset ;  they  only  differ  in  the 
text  in  their  respective  errors  of  the  press;  but  the  Philadel- 
phia book  has  six  pictures  that  were  not  in  the  original,  and 
a  modified  title  page.      The  original  edition  is  as  follows : 


I 


[1807.]     A    Journal  \  of   the  \  Voyages  otui    Travels  \  of  a 
Corps  of  Diseovery,  \  tinder  the  eoiuviaiiil  of  Capt.  Lcivis 
ami  Capt.  \  Clarke  of  the  Army  of  the  Unit  eel  States,  \ 
from  !  the  month   of  the   Rixur   Missouri   through   the  \ 
interior  parts  of  North  America  \  to  the  Pacife  Ocean,  \ 
during  the  years    1 804,    1 805,  &  1806.  |  Containing  \  An 
authentic    relation    of    the    most    interesting  transactions, 
during  the  expedition. — A   description  of  the  country.—  \ 


BIULIOGRAPHICAI.    INTROOUCTION.  cxix 

And  an  account  of  its  inhabitants,  soil,  climate,  curiosities  I 
an,l  vegetable  and  animal  productions.  \  ~  \  By  Patrick 
Gass,  I  one  of  the  persons  employed  in  the  expedition.  \  —  \ 
Utth  geographical  and    explanatary    notes  \  by   the  pub- 
Itsher.  I  —  I  [Copy.right     secured    according     to    law  ^  I 
/'://./;;.r^.//.  |  printed     by     Zadok     Cramer,  \  for    David 

m  Aeehau,  Puolisher  and  \  proprietor 1807.  | 

One  vol.,  i2mo,pp.  i-viii,  9-262.     (.V^  illustrations.) 

In  my  bibliography  of  1876  I  said:  "There  appears  to 
have  been  another  Pittsburgh  edition,  in  8vo,  probably  of 
iJ^oS  :  the  one  from  which  a  London  edition  was  reprinted  " 
1  his  IS  a  mistake  of  mine,  arising  from  my  misunderstanding 
of  the  title  as  given  by  Field.  There  never  was  a  Pittsburgh 
octavo  or  any  Pittsburgh  edition  after  the  princeps.  Ti.is 
was  followed  by  a  London  8vo.  i8o8,  and  also  by  three  sue 
cessive  Philadelphia  i2mos,  of  1810,  r8ti.  1812. 

Il80^'        A  I  fournal  \  of  the  \  Voyages  and  Travels  \  of  \      ^ 
a  CO.  ps  of  discovery,  \  under  the  command  of  Captau,  Lewis 
and  I  Captain     Clarice,    of    the    Army    of  |  the     United 
States;   I  from     the    mouth    of   the  \  River    Missouri  I 
through    the  I  Interior  Parts  of  North   Amerua,  |  /.  the 
lacific  Ocean;    \  during  the  years  1804,   1805,  <^r   1 806   I 
Containnig  \  An  Authentic  Relation  of  the  most  interest- 
mg  Transactions  during  \  the  Expedition  :  \  A  Descriptwn 
of  the  Country  .•  And  an  |  Account  of  its  Inhabitant.^,  Soil 
Climate,  Curiosities,  |  and  regetable  and  Animal  Produc- 
ttons   I  -  I  By  Patrick  Gass,  j  One  of  the  Persons  employed 
in  the  Expedition.  \  -  |  Pittsburgh:  \  printed  for  Davtd 
/to'  '  ^'""'^'"■-  i  I^^-Prrnted  for  J.  Budd,  Bookseller 
to\  His  Royal  Highness  the  Prince  of  \   Wales,  PalUfall  I 
1808.  '  ' 

One  vol..  Svo.pp.  ;-/.-,  ,-,Si,  no  mop  or  any  other  illust. 

A  faithful   an,l  a„„,.k.,c  r.,„i„,   „f  „,e  .,n,i„al  of  .So;  ;  tcxtuallv  >,lentical 
(barnn,  ,"-,..  „f  .  ,v..,.„y  i„,i,,,,„    ,„  ,,,^,,.        „,^,  ■ 

much  l,c„cr  ,h.n   ,   n,  .f  any   AnK-rican   .lin'on.      I,„prin,    ••  uJuU  Jc     ' 
Marshall-.,K.e,,  ( ,ol>Ien.S,,,ar.,"  v.rso  of  ,i„e  an.l  ,.„  p.  ,S,.     Th.rc  i.  a  now 


mmm 


■^  -A*  .•^T^ 


cxx 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL    INTRODUCTION. 


"  Advertisement  by  the  English  Pubhsher,"  pp.  iii,  iv,  dated  London,  April  l8th, 
1808.  The  publisher  also  furnishes  new  chapter-heads,  by  dates  of  the  Journal 
comprehended  in  each  chapter,  and  summary  of  contents  of  each.  (These  date- 
heads  are  used  by  Lallemant  in  his  French  edition.)  There  is  no  new  editorial 
tt'.\t.  This  edition  is  the  best  one  in  the  English  language — for  those  who  do 
not  care  frr  princeps  editions. 

[18 10.]      Voyage  \  des  Capitaines  \  Lewis  et  Clarke,  \  Dcpuis 
r embouchure  du  Missouri,  jusqtih  l" entree  \  de  la  Colotnbia 
dans  rOci'an  Pacifiqiie ;  \  fait  dans  les  amines  1804,  '805 
et  1806,  I  par  ordre  du  Gouverncment  des  ^tats-Unis :  | 
contenant  \  Le  Journal  authcntique  des  ^vdneinents  les  plus 
remar-  \  quablcs  du  Voyage,  ainsi  que  la  Description  des  \ 
Habitants,  du  Sol,  du  Climat,  et  des  Productions  \  animates 
et  v^g^ tales  des  pays  Situi's  it  I'ouest  de  \  V Amdriqtte  Sep- 
tentrionale.  \  Rddigi^  en  Anglais  par  Patrice  Gass,  Employe* 
dans  I  r Expedition  ;  \  Et  traduit  en  Fran(^ais  par  A.J.  N. 
Lalletnant,  \  Vun  des  Secrtftaires  de  la  Marine.  \  Avec  des 
Notes,  deux  Lettres  du  Capitaine   Clarke,  \  et  une  Carte 
grav^e  par  J.  B.   Tardieu.  \  —  \  A  Paris,  \  Chez  Arthus- 
Bertrand,  Libraire,  rue  Hautefcuillc,  n°.  23.  |  —  j  18 10. 
One  vol.,  8vo,pp.  i-xxiij,  \-i^i,  and  map. 


This  is  a  faithful  and  complete  French  translation  of  Gass'  Journal,  doubtless 
made  from  ihe  English  ed.  of  l3o8  :  but  whether  L.illemant  had  this  text  or 
the  original  of  I  Soy  before  him  is  immaterial,  as  the  two  are  substantially  the 
same.  The  original  editor's  (M'Keehan's)  notes  are  translated,  and  the  F'rench 
editor  adds  a  few  of  his  own.  The  vol.  opens  with  a  half-title,  verso  advts., 
pp.  i,  ii  ;  title,  verso  blank,  pp.  iii,  iv  ;  Message  du  President  des  Etats-Unis, 
etc.,  pp.  v-vij  (not  in  the  oris^inal)  ;  p.  viij,  blank  ;  pp.  ix-.\viij,  abridged 
translation  of  the  original  editor's  preface;  p|).  1-415,  the  Journal,  entire; 
pp.  416-432,  two  Letters  of  Clark,  genuine  and  authentic,  translated  in 
F'rench  (being  the  same  that  are  given  in  the  spurious  London  ed.  of  l8og  and  in 
otiier  Apocrypha)  ;  pp.  433-443,  table  of  contents,  by  chapter-heads,  not  in  the 
orig.  ed.  V^ol.  ends  "  de  I'imprimeriede  M"  \'«  Jeunehomme,  rue  Hautefeuille, 
N".  20."  The  map  measures  1)^  x  i^J/^  inches  ;  it  is  legended  |  Carte  |  Pour 
servir  au  Voyage  |  des  Cap"'.  Lewis  et  Clarke,  |  a  1'  Ocean  l'acifi(]ue.  |  Grave 
par  J.  H.  Tardieu.  |  It  is  copied  from  the  familiar  old  London  Longmans 
map  of  iSoc),  with  French  names  lettered  instead  of  English. 

I  had  never  seen  this  book  when  my  former  Bibliography  was  prepared,  in 
1S76,  and  could  only  give  an  abridgetl  title  at  second  hand.  I  was  right  in  then 
supjjosing  it  to  be  a  version  of  the  Gass  Journal. 


riliSth, 
Journal 
se  date- 
iditorial 
who  do 


lcp7iis 
'otnbia 
,  1805 
lis:  I 
s  plus 
des  I 
males 
'  Sep- 
nployd 
J.N. 
'ec  dis 
Carte 
rthus- 
5 10. 


)uhtless 
text  or 
ally  the 
French 

advts. , 
s-Unis, 
jridged 
entire  ; 
ited  in 
I  and  in 
t  in  the 
ifeuille, 

I  Pour 
I  Grave 
ngmans 

ared,  in 
in  then 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL   INTRODUCTION.  cxxi 

Phn^S  rr'    ''^"'''"  ^'^'   ''''''"^   American)   appeared   in 
Philadelphia  m  1810,  as  follows: 

""' r°'i     1-  ^/'"'"''^  I  'f  ''^''  I  Voyages  and    Travels  I  ./  a 

and  Cap.  |  Clarke  of  the  Army  of  the  United  States  I 
from  I  the  mouth  of  the  River  Missouri  through  the  \  inte 
rtorpartsof  North  America,  |  tothc  Paeifc  Ocfan,  |  DuHn, 

relat:o„  of  the  most  interesting  transac  \  tions  during  the 
expedUron,~A  description  of  \  the  country,- And  an 
^^conntofus  rnhab:.  \  tants,  soil,  climate,  curiosities,  aZ 
ve.  I  getable  and  animal  productions.  \  -  \  By  Patrick 
^ass  one  of  the  persons  employed  in  the  expedition.  I  _  I 
With  I  geographical  and   explanatory   notes.  I  _  j  \cop\ 

P^  fTri  T"'"'"^  '"   ^^"'•^  I  -  I  P'^iladelplia    { 
Prtntedfor  Mat  hew  Carey,  |  No.  122,  Market-stre  ft   I  _ 
loIO.  •  I  I 

One  vol.,  i2mo,  pp.  i-vtii,  9-262.  with  6  full  page  illus- 
trations on  separate  inserts  backed  blank. 

The  title  of  this  edition  is  substantially  the  same  as  thit   nf  H,«  f 
their  lines  than  for  any  approacht^- '^leV:;  btuty .•    "^""'^      ^^'"'"'^  °' 

inj vearisfr'^l;"  Tl""  "'  '''°  "^^  "'^-^'^  ^^e  follow- 
ng  year,    8u.  though  I  can  find  no  allusion  to  it  in  any 

bibl.ograph.es  examined.     Fortunately  I  have  a  copy  before 

me-one    of    the    best-thumbed    books    I    ever  "^^L died 

Though   ,    ,s   mutilated,  the   upper   half  of  the  title  naee 

and  the  whole  last  leaf  of  the  book  being  torn  out  enoul 

of  the  title  remains  for  identification.     It^  as  follows       "^ 

^'ly^\ ■    ■    ■    \-\By  Patrick    Cass,  |  One  of 

the  persons    employed  in   the   expedition  \  -  |   With    Geo- 


cxxn 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL   INTRODUCTION. 


graphical  and  Explanatory  Notes.  \  —  |  Third  Edition — 
with  six  Engravings.  \  —  |  [^Copy-right  secured  according 
to  Law.]  I  —  I  Printed  for  Mat  hew  Carey,  |  No.  122 
Market  street,  \  Philadelphia.  |  —  |  181 1. 

One  vol.     i2nio,  pp.  i-viii,  9-262,  ivith  6  full  page  illus- 
trations on  separate  inserts  backed  blank. 

This  is  exactly  the  same  as  the  I'hila.  ed.  of  iSio,  but  title-page  is  reset  in 
a  little  <lifferent  tyjiography.  The  title-page  is  backed  with  copyright,  certified 
by  I).  Caldwell,  Clerk  ,)f  the  District  of  Pennsylvania,  pp.  i,  ii  ;  Preface  by  the 
publisher  of  the  first  edition  (M'Keehan,  Pittsburgh,  1807),  d.ited  March  2f)th, 
1807,  pp.  iii-viii  ;  half  title  (  |  Journal  of  the  \  Voyages  and  Travels  \  of  \  a 
Corps  of  Discovery  \  ),  p.  9,  backed  blank  ;  Journal,  pp.  11-262. 


This  edition  is  said  to  have  been  re-issued  at  Philadelphia 
in  i2mo,  1812.  I  have  seen  no  copy  bearing  this  date. 
The  title,  as  quoted  by  Field,  is  substantially  identical  ;  the 
illustrations  are  continued.  This  is  spoken  of  as  the 
"  fourth  "  K^i.  e.,  the  fourth  American)  edition  ;  but  a-  the 
London  8vo  reprint,  1808,  of  the  Pittsburgh  12m  >,  1807, 
is  to  be  counted  as  one.  and  the  French  version  as  another, 
then  the  Philadelphia  umo  of  1 812  is  the  sixth.  Sabin 
gives  a  Phila.  re-issue  of  181 5,  and  alludes  to  a  possible 
Dutch  translation ;  of  neither  of  these  do  I  know  anything 
further. 

Very  copious  extracts,  together  amounting  to  an  epitome 
of  the  Journal  of  Gass,  have  lately  (1892)  been  published 
by  Colonel  John  Doniphan,  in  a  series  of  eight  articles, 
running  through  as  many  numbers,  weekly,  of  the  Daily 
News  of  St.  Joseph,  Mo.  These  articles  average  nearly  two 
columns  apiece.  They  are  of  the  following  dates :  I,  May 
7th;  II,  May  14th;  III,  May2lst;  IV,  May  28th  ;  V.June 
4th  ;  VI,  June  i  ith  ;  VII,  June  18th  ;  VIiI,  June  25th,  1892. 
These  articles  collectively  are  a  fuller  and  clearer  reflection 
of  the  Journal  than  is  contained  in  Jacob's  Life  and  Times 
of  Patrick  Gass,  1859.  The  latter  is  our  only  biography  of 
the  famous  sergeant,  and  incidentally  a  booklet  of  much 
curious  information.      Following  is  the  full  title  : 


I 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL   INTRODUCTION. 


cxxiit 
[1859].      The  I  Life  and  Times  \  of  \  Patrick  Gass,  I  now  sole 
surrnvor  |  .///,.  overland  expedition  to  the  Pacific    \un    r 
Lew.  and  Clark,  in  1804-5-6;  |  ./..,  ,  ,   .J^',         t 
war  wuk  Great  Britain,  from  |  1812  to  1815,  and  alar 
Uapantrn  tke  \  Battle  of  Lundy^s  Lane.  |  To^tker  wftT{ 
sZ/"T'  '^  '''  ^'^''^'^'"  condensed ;\  -andl 
t      the    upper   Olno    country,  |  biographies,   reminiscences, 
itshers  and  Printers,  Wellsbnrg,  Va.  |  1859 
/rontisp.  portrait  and  autograph  of  Gass. 
entltt'd^'S  °^,^f,"'^"d^  '°  P-  '93,  of  which  only  Chap.  II,  pp   ,,.,,, 

life  which  I  give  is  .ain.y  prepZ  ^tihis  Jl'.^l^-^-'^^--'  ^^^^  «^.  ^-s' 
ni.-THE  AUTHENTIC  HISTORY  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 

^'I'nr  T'^'^^l  '■^•'  '^''  ^^P'^i^ion  I  under  the  command   '■ 
of\  Captains   Lewis  and  Clark,  |  /.  |  the  sources  of  the 
Missop  I  thence  {across  the  Rocky  Mountains  |  and  down 
the  I  River   Columbia   to   the  Pacific    Ocean.  |  Performed 
during  the  years  .Zo^-^^6.  \  By  order  of  the  |  Govrnmcnt 
of    nelnited  States.  |  Prepared  for  the  press  |  by  Pall 
Allen,  Esquire.  \  In  two  Volumes.  I  Vol.  I  {in    \  Philnrfrl 
pina:  \Publislied  by  Bradford  aid  W^^JJ  Itf 
H.Inskeep.  Newyork.  \  J.  Maxxvell,  Printer.  (  1814 
Two  vols    Svo.     Vol  /.,  pp.  /-,.,,,-,;  ,_^.^^  ,^, -^^^  \ 

fsZ       .  "  '"'"''  "'"^''      ^^'"  ''-'P^-  ^--'  ^-522.  ail 

.nJtr''''''''.'>f '■'•"'''''■   J''=»''^'"'h^^e  twovoh.mesi.s  the  original    genuine 
TheTeff  T;"""    'T^  °'  the  Expedition  which  has  con'e  d  u'to "  ' 

The  .Tefferson  Message  and  Accompanying  Documents  are  original   genuine   and 
u.hent.c,  but  not  the  History  of  the  Expedition  at  all  tnough  repe  .'eZ  , Lsed 
upto  appearas  such,  ,„thevario.,,s  Apocrypha.    The  Gass  Journal  is  a    ogna, 
Benu.ne,  and  authentic  account  of  the  Expedition,  but  is  not  Lewis  ad  St 


^sf^msmm 


I 


CXXIV 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL   INTRODUCTION. 


narrative.  The  author  of  this  booic  is  Nicholas  Biddle,  whose  work  was  faced, 
prefaced,  and  defaced  by  one  Paul  Allen. 

f  W.  /.  Title  leaf,  on  which  Clark's  name  is  spelled  correctly,  backed  with 
original  copyright  of  Bradford  and  Inskeep,  1814,  certified  by  David  Caldwell, 
Clerk  of  the  District  of  Pennsylvania,  pp.  i,  ii ;  original  preface,  signed  Paul 
Allen,  pp.  iii-v  (p.  vi  blank)  ;  Life  of  Captain  Lewis,  by  Th.  Jefferson,  pp. 
vii-xxiii  (p.  xxiv  blank).  Contents,  pp.  xxv-xxviii,  recapitulating  the  synopses 
of  chaps,  i-xvii,  which  this  vol.  contains  ;  main  text  of  the  Narrative,  pp.  1-470. 

yol.  II.  Title  leaf  as  before  ;  contents,  pp.  iii-ix  (p.  x  blank) ;  main  text  of 
the  Narrative,  pp.  1-433  (P-  434  blank).  Appendix  begins  p.  435,  and  consists  of 
the  following  pieces  ;  (l)  "  Observations  and  reflections  on  the  present  and 
future  state  of  Upper  Louisiana,  in  relation  to  the  Government  of  the  Indian 
nations  inhabiting  that  country,  and  the  trade  and  intercourse  with  the  same. 
By  Captain  Lewis,"  pp.  435-461.  Then  comes,  without  break  in  the  text,  and 
without  sign  of  its  being  a  new  heading,  (2)  "  A  summary  statement  of  the  rivers, 
creeks,  and  most  reinarkalile  places,"  .  .  .  etc.,  by  Cajjtains  Lewis  and  Clark, 
pp.  462-470,  being  an  itinerary,  in  tabular  form,  with  notes  ;  then  comes  (3)  an 
"  Estimate  of  the  Western  Indians,"  pp.  471-476  ;  then  starts  in  on  the  middle 
of  p.  476  (4)  certain  "  Thermometrical  Observations,"  etc.,  which  run  to  the  mid- 
dle of  p.  495,  and  are  followed  by  "  Remarks  and  Reflections,"  making  a  new 
heading,  and  running  top.  522  inclusive,  the  end  of  the  volume.  This  is  a  con- 
fusing thing,  from  the  way  it  is  set  in  type  ;  it  really  makes  four  appendices,  as 
will  be  found  fully  explained  in  the  present  new  edition. 

The  work  thus  described  makes  two  octavo  volumes  of  ordinary  size,  36  lines  to 
the  page,  type-bed  6^  x  3^  inches,  1.  p.  type,  very  thick  and  heavy,  almost  like 
a  full-face  font,  not  pleasant  to  the  eye,  though  the  lines  look  as  if  leaded  ;  the 
paper  very  thin,  though  rough,  bringing  an  average  of  about  500  pages  into  a 
moderately  thick  volume  ;  the  binding  was  very  strong,  so  that  copies  remain 
to-day  in  excellent  state.  The  running  head  of  all  the  left-hand  pages  is  the 
words  "  Lewis  and  Clarke's  Expedition,"  and  of  the  right-hand  pages  "  Up  the 
Missouri  " — which  latter  is  misleading  before  the  close  of  Vol.  I,  when  the  Expe- 
dition had  long  left  the  Missouri  and  was  across  the  Rocky  mountains.  After 
p.  433  of  Vol.  II  the  running  head  is  simply  "  Appendix"  on  both  odd  and  even 
pages.  The  type-setting  is  bad — very  bad  ;  misprints  abound,  to  the  number 
of  several  thousand  ;  in  tine,  the  individual  who  is  announced  as  having  prepa.ed 
the  work  for  the  press,  and  is  supposed  to  have  read  the  proofs,  capped  the 
climax  of  all  possible  typographical  terrorization.  The  punctuation  is  exasperat- 
ting,  in  more  particulars  than  one  ;  besides  the  thousands  of  superfluous  commas 
with  which  the  text  is  peppered,  as  was  the  fasliion  in  the  close  pointing  of  the 
period,  there  runs  through  the  book  a  peculiarly  vicious  use  of  colons,  quite  aside 
from  their  proper  office.  There  is  hardly  a  case  of  such  colons  that  were  not 
better  replaced  by  a  full  stop  and  beginning  of  a  new  sentence,  or  even  of  a  new 
paragraph.  The  Dublin  edition  reproduces  the  text  punctuatim ,  as  a  rule  ;  in 
the  London  editions  the  pointing  is  somewhat  improved. 

In  the  capitulation  of  the  text  the  editor  has  shown  good  judgment.  As  nearly 
as  seemed  consistent  with  making  chapters  of  approximately  e()ual  lengths,  the 


I 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAI,    INTRODUCTION.  CXXV 

bilher.rr,:'  '"  "**  """  "'"'  ""''^'''  ^"'ees  in  .he  journey,  as  will  be  seen 
by  the  ,„les  I  have  p.,t  ,o  .he  several  chap.ers  in  .his  new  edi.io;     The  oriZ" 

of  comr.::"^  """'•'  "^ "-" '''''-'' '"'  ^"  '"^^  -  -p-^-"  i-hT^a^r; 

The  illus.rations  consis.  of  one  large  foMing  n,a,,  and  five  copper-pla.es    pace 
feaur     JTV'T"  '"  "'^'"^'""'^  "'  ^^^^''  """">•  •'■   ^ci.  this  i^p  ; 

ior.it,cation     on  the  Missouri  nver  a.  Bon  Homme  island  ;  (2)  Plan  of  the 
Portage  a.  ,he  (irea,   Falls  of  the  Missouri.     (That   view  of    h     Great  fI  1 
winch   .s  ■„  .he  Dublin  .8:7  ed..  I  have  ye.  .0  see  in  a  copy  of  ,8  4       The 
three  pla.es  n,  Vol.  II  are  :  (:)  The  Grea.  Falls  of  .he  Columbia  •  (^    Th   Gre.! 
Shoo,  or  Rapids  of  .he  Columbia;  (3)  The  .Mou.h  of   .he  Col'u m  ia       Som 
copies  are  wi.hou.  any  illus.ra.ions  a.  all. 

The  work  was  no.  indexed-a  serious  defect,  for  which  .he  os.ensible  edi.or 

hould  1.  .aken  .0  .ask.  as  .his  omission  has  made  consul.a.ion  of   he  wind      u 

b<«k  difficult  and  .edious.  when  one  has  wan.ed  .0  look  up  a  poin     onl     .  bi 

found  by  searching  .he  pages;  for  .he  analyses  of  the  chap.ers     ;«  far    rom 

be.ng  minu.e  enough  .0  condone  ,he  offense  of  which  soLone      as  guZ 

There  ought  ,0  be  a  law  against  indexless  books,  wi.h  heavy  penal.y  ^      '" 

An  ex.ended  review  and  analysis  of  .he  work,  with  copious  ex.rac.s,  and  signed 

B.    ^v.ll  be  found  m  .he  Analec.ic  Magazine,   Philada.    ,815,  V.  n     s    pp 

125-149.    210-234.     Some  of  the  other  contemporaneous  reviews  of 'which  I 

one.  mad.  mem„ran<la,  are  :  One  by  Robert   .Sclu.hey.  in  Lond.   Qui  v 

.     ,         ;/'u    .  ^'  ''^e-nning  p.  4,2  ;  also,  .Southern  Quart.  Rev   VIII 

1815.     But   hese  are  mere  samples  ;  .0  discover  and  adduce  all  .he  place   where 
Lewis  and  Clark      .appears  in  li.era.ure  would  require  more  than  any  n       s 
l.fe.in.e,  and  resul.  in  a  voluminous  •'  bibliography  of  bibliography." 

During  the  same  year  (,814).  the  Biddle  History  was 
republished  in  London,  under  the  editorship  of  Dr.  Thomas 
Rees,  in  one  Vol.  4to,  with  the  following  title  : 

[1814.]      Trave/s  |  /.  //,.  |  So.nr  of  the  Missouri  Rtvcr  I 
ami   across     the  |  American     Continent  |  /.     the  \  Pacific 
Ocean    \  Performed  \  by  order  of  the    Government  of  the 
United  States,  \  in  the  Years   1804,  1805.  and  1806   |  -  I 

S^  w  ^""  ^"T'"  "'"^  ^''"'^'-  '  -  I  ^^'^^^'^^'^i  from  the 
Official  Report,  \  and  \  illustrated  by  a  map  of  the  route   I 

and  other  maps.  \  -  |  London  :  \  Printed  for    Lon<rman 


CXXVl 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL  INTRODUCTION. 


Hurst,  Rees,  Ornie,  and  Broivn,  Paternoster-Row.  \  —  | 
1814. 

One  vol.,  ^to,  pp.  i-xxiv,  1-663,  i  folding  and  2  {or  5  ?) 
full-page  maps. 

"The  present  edition  is  printed  nearly  verbatim  from  the  original;  the 
sheets  of  which  were  forwarded  to  this  country  by  the  American  proprietors  : 
the  only  liberty  that  has  been  taken  with  the  language,  has  been  merely  the 
correction  of  a  few  inadvertent  grammatical  or  typographical  errors.  The 
American  copy  contained  an  Appendix  drawn  up  by  Captain  Lewis  on  the  State 
of  the  Indian  Nations  ;  .  .  .  but  as  the  subject  is  altogether  of  a  local  nature, 
and  the  observations  possess  little  interest  for  the  British  reader,  it  has  been 
omitted."  Besides  the  whole  Appendix,  which  occupies  89  pages  of  the  origi- 
nal, Jefferson's  Life  of  Lewis  and  the  American  editor's  preface  are  also 
omitted  ;  the  place  of  the  latter  being  occupied  by  a  new  preface  of  the  English 
editor.  This  preface  consists  chiefly  of  a  sketch  of  other  explorations  in  the 
West,  especially  I'ike's  (which  Rees  had  edited  in  1811)  ;  it  also  includes  Presi- 
dent Jefferson's  Message  of  Feb.  19th,  l3o6,  and  an  extract  of  the  Mandan  letter, 
of  Apr.  "  17th",  i.  e.,  7th,  l3o5,  from  Captain  Lewis  to  the  President,  with 
bibliographical  references  to  the  Jefferson  pamphlet  of  1806,  to  the  English 
edition  (1809)  of  the  Apocrypha,  and  to  Gass'  Journal ;  which  latter  is  spoken  of 
in  more  complimentary  terms  than  those  used  by  the  American  editor.  Except- 
ing these  points  and  those  mentioned  above  in  quotation  marks,  this  English  410 
edition  is  identical  with  the  original  American  one. 

It  was  succeeded  the  next  year  by  a  3-vol.  8vo  reprint,  as 
follows : 

[18 1 5.]  Travels  \  to  the  source  of  \  the  Missouri  River  \  and 
across  the  \  American  Continent  \  to  \  the  Pacific  Ocean.  \ 
Performed  by  order  of  \  the  Government  of  the  United 
States,  I  in  the  years  1804,  1805,  and  1806.  |  —  |  By  Cap- 
tains Lezois  and  Clarke.  \  —  |  Published  from  the  Official 
Report,  I  and  illustrated  by  a  map  of  the  route,  \  and  other 
maps.  \  —  \  A  nezu  edition,  in  three  volumes.  \  J^ol.  I. 
[//.  ///.]  I  —  I  London  :  \  Printed  for  Longman,  Hurst, 
Rees,  Orme,  and  Brozi'n,  \  Paternoster- Rozc.  |  181 5. 

Three  vols.,  ^vo.  Vol.  /,  pp.  i-xxvi.  I  /.  not  paged,  1-4 11, 
3  maps.  Vol.  II,  pp.  i-xii,  1-434,  3  maps.  Vol.  Ill,  pp. 
i~xii,  1-394. 

Except  in  form,  and  in  some  minor  details  of  typography  incident  to  resetting 
of  the  type,  this  is  identical  with  the  4to  edition  of  1814.     Being  convenient  in 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL    INTRODUCTION.  CXXvii 

form  and  otherwise   unexceptioaable.  it  is  a  favorite,  perhaps  oftener  met  with 
vea  tn  th.s  country,  than  the  original  of  ^S^,.     n  L  re-i  s  ed  Lrda"    I 
I  17.  apparently  fron.  the  same  plates  ;  though  I  observe,  on  the  last  two  page 
o    Vol   I   ,  ,,^,h^  ^^  .^  ^^^  ^^^  ^^  ^^^  ^^  ^^.^^^^^  subsequent  to 

8 17  as  may  eas. ly  have  been  the  case,  the  fact  has  no.  come  to  my  notice.     ThesJ 

■n  tfo:*-"::  r  n  '^•";'*"'^"r'  '^'^ '"'  '^^^  -"^^  -^^  -i-^^  -^^-t  ^is^ 

imction,  as  the  pagination  is  the  same. 

Meanwhile,  in  the  year  ,815,  the  work  (?)  was  translated 

no  German  and  published  in  that  language.    The  abridged 

title  of  something  i,.  German,  not  seen  by  me,  is  thus  given 

by  Kayser;  I  regret  that  I  am  unable  to  complete  the  title: 

[iSis.]     ''{Lczi^j^    Hud    Clarke.)    Tagebuck  e.  Entdeckungs^ 

7nll         t     r^;   ^'""'■'^^^    '"   '^-  ^''''''"    ^804-6,   Ausd 

hngl.  V.  Wcyland.     Mit.  \  Karte." 

<Nau'  Bihliothek  der  zuichtigsten  Beschreibungen,  u.  s.  za 

{^Vei,mr,gr.8vo.)Bd/,  181s. 

,Jl!,f^l  ^""  '^'  ""'^^"'^  '^■'"^  "f  publication,  this  may  be  a  version  of 

m  ;  ':c:""'7',  ""  "  "'^^  '^  ^"-^"""^  ^"'— ^  --  -view  fo 
example,  or  a  Oas,.     I  have  never  seen  it,  and  do  not  know. 

The  next  edition  of  the  authentic  narrative  is  a  Dutch 
version,  by  Van  Kampcn.  published  in  three  8vo  vols  at 
Dordrecht,  i8i6-i8.     It  is  entitled  as  follows  : 

[1816-18.]     Rcisc  I  ,iaar  |  d,  Bronncn  van   den  Missouri  I 
en  door  het  vastc  land  van  America  \  naar  dc  Zutd.ee    \ 
Gcdaan  op  last  van  dc  Rcgcring  dcr  Verccnigdc  Statcn  van 
America,  \  in    dc   jar  en     1804.    1805    en    i^oG.  \  Door   dc 
Kaptteins  \  Lczais  en   Clarke.  \  Met  eene  Kaart.  I  -  I   Uit 
het  Engelsch  vertaald  door  \  N.   G.    Van  Kampcn    \  _  I 
hcrstc    [tzvccdc,    derde    en     Laatste]    Dccl  \  *  I  Tc    Dor 
drecht,  I  Bij  A.  Blnssc'  &  Zoon.  |  1816  [1817,  18181 

Vd.  n,   ,817,  pp.  ,_^,,y,   ,_3^o.    ^.,^   ^^^_  ,3^^^  ^^    .J.^.^ 

This    is   a   fair   and   complete    version,    doubtless  made    from    the    English 
3-volume  edition  of  .8.5  (Ree.'  preface  being  reproduced  and  the  original  preface 


CXXVIll 


HIl!L10(;R.\I'mCAI.   INTRODUCTION. 


1?' 


hi  i 


and  memoir  of  Lewis  omitted).  The  Dutch  translator  prefixes  a  preface  of  his  own 
(Voorberigt  van  den  Vertalcr,  pp.  iii-xviii  of  Vol.  1)  and  furnishes  a  numlier 
of  new  footnotes.  Hut  the  appendices  of  the  original  edition  are  omitted,  and  in 
their  stead  are  given  as  appendices  Jefferson's  Message  of  February  19th,  1806, 
and  Lewis'  Mandan  letter  to  the  Trcsident,  these  two  occupying  pp.  327-335. 
The  book  ends  with  Aanteekeningen  on  p.  335.  There  are  no  illustrations.  The 
map  is  legended  \  Kaart  |  der  Reizen  van  Lewis  en  Clarke  |  door  htt  Westelijk 
Gedeelte  van  |  Noord  Amerika  |  van  den  .Mississippi  tot  de  Zuid  Zee,  |  op  last 
van  de  Uitvoerende  Magt  der  |  Vereenigde  Staten,  |  en  1804,  5  en  6.  |  In 
lower  margin  is  "  C,  van  Baarsel  en  Zooii,  sculps."  and  "  Te  Dordrecht,  bij 
A.  Klusse  &  Zoon."  This  map  w.is  redr.iwii  .ind  re-engraved,  and  the  execution 
is  better  than  that  of  the  original.  The  si,!e  is  al)out  the  same — a  tritle  higher  and 
a  trifle  shorter.  The  lettering  is  mostly  in  Dutch,  but  with  most  of  the  Indian 
and  some  of  the  English  and  I'reuch  names  unchanged.  It  is  faithfully  done, 
though  I  observe  several  slips  of  the  draughtsman  or  engraver — which  would 
yield  a  little  crop  of  synonyms  of  rivers,  etc.,  as  "  Missourri,"  "  Mil "  for  Milk 
R.,  Meir  "  Eusue  "  and  "  Riddle"  for  Lakes  Eustis  and  Riddle,  "  Quamash 
Vlakte  "  in  one  place  and  "  Quamash  Flats"  in  another,  etc.,  etc. 

While  this  Dutch  translation  was  in  progress,  there  ap- 
peared an  Irish  2-vol.  edition  at  Dublin,  in  1817,  as  follows: 

[1817.]  History  \  of  \  the  Expedition  \  under  the  command 
of  Captains  Lciois  and  Clarke,  \  to  \  the  sources  of  the 
Missouri,  \  thence  \  across  the  Rocky  Mountains  \  and 
do'ivn  the  \  River  Columbia  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  \  Per- 
formed during  the  years  1804-5-6.  |  By  order  of  the  \  Gov- 
ernment of  the  United  States.  \  Prepared  for  the  press  \  by 
Paul  Allen,  Esq.  \  With  the  Life  of  Captain  Le7vis,  \  by  T. 
Jefferson,  \  President  of  the  United  States  of  America.  \  In 
tivo  Volumes.  \  Vol.  I  [//].  |  Philadelphia  :  published  by 
Bradford  and  I  nskeep  ;  and  Abm.  H.  \  Inskeep,  Newyork.  \ 
Dublin  :  \  printed  by  J.  Christie,  1 70,  James" s-strcet.  \ 
1817.  I 

Tivo  vols.,  %vo.  Vol.  I,  map  as  frontisp.,  title-leaf  backed 
with  CaUhvelVs  Pennsylvania  copyright,  4  unpaged  leaves 
of  Contents,  preface  pp.  iii-vi.  Life  of  Capt.  Lewis  pp. 
iv-xxviii.  Narrative  pp.  1-588,  ivith  ipll.  opp.  pp.  78,  326, 
327.  Vol.  II,  title-leaf  as  before,  contents  pp.  i-xii,  2 
unpaged  leaves  of  List  of  subscribers  and  directions  for 
placing  plates,  pp.  3-643,  with  3  ///.  opp.  pp.  40,  67,  90. 


i 


BIHLIOGRAPHICAL   INTRODUCTION. 


CXXIX 


I 

\ed 

'.rs 

fP- 
26, 

2 

for 


Of  all  the  reissues  this  one  is  the  best,  being  nearest  the  original,  of  which  it 
is  a  faithful  and  literal  reprint,  and  would  be  an  exact  copy  but  for  the  slight 
changes  about  tu  be  noticed.  The  form  is  the  same,  with  the  same  divisions  of 
chapters  in  the  two  volumes  ;  the  copy  makes  a  little  taller  and  slightly  deeper 
book,  with  more  margin,  and  a  larger,  clearer  type,  wider  spaced  between  the 
lines,  so  that  there  are  only  33  lines  to  the  page  as  against  36  of  the  princeps 
edition  ;  but  the  type-bed  is  within  one  em  of  the  same  widtli.  Whereas  the 
Kees'  London  eds.  of  1814  and  1815  substituted  a  new  preface  in  place  of  the 
original  one,  and  omitted  the  Life  of  Lewis,  this  Dublin  ed.  retains  both  of 
these,  iind  pointedly  notes  the  fact,  even  adding  to  the  title  of  the  book,  "  With 
the  Life  of  Captain  Lewis,  by  T.  Jefferson,"  etc.  The  unpaged  leaves  giving 
"contents"  are  iilentical  with  those  of  the  original;  in  Vol.  II  a  couple  of 
unpaged  leaves  gives  subscription  list  of  the  new  ed.,  and  directions  for  placing 
the  plates.  The  main  text  is  word  for  word,  barring  some  typographical  dis- 
crepancies incident  to  resetting  the  type  ;  nothing  is  added,  taken  away,  or 
transposed  in  the  narrative  itself,  the  greater  number  of  pages  resulting  from 
the  larger  and  more  open  type,  of  32  instead  of  36  lines  to  the  page.  In  the 
appendix  some  slight  modifications  are  introduced  ;  a  leaf  backed  blank  says 
"Appendix"  (being  pp.  545,  546),  another  leaf  backed  blank  (pp.  547,  548) 
gives  h.ilf-title  (  |  01)servatiuns  and  reflections  |  on  the  |  present  and  future  state 
I  of  I  Upper  I  Louisiana,  |  in  relation  to  the  government  of  the  Indian  |  nations 
inhabiting  that  country  and  the  |  trade  and  intercourse  with  the  same.  |  By 
Captain  Lewis.  |  ),  headed  again,  on  p.  549,  "  Observations  on  the  .State  of  Upper 
Louisiana,"  running  to  p.  583,  which  is  backed  blank.  Then  comes  a  leaf 
backeil  blank  (pp.  5S5,  586)  with  the  half-title  |  Estimate  |  of  |  the  Western 
Indians.,  pp.  587-596,  in  substance  the  same  as  the  original,  but  in  better  form, 
the  awkward  tabular  shape  being  replaced  by  an  unbroken  text  ;  then  the 
meteorological  tables  of  the  original  are  omitted,  but  the  "  Reflections  and 
Remarks  "  which  follow  these  tables  in  the  original  as  a  running  commentary 
are  reproduced  entire,  half-titled  |  Reflections  and  Remarks  |  on  a  leaf  backed 
blank  (pp.  597,  598)  and  running  to  p.  630;  finally  comes  the  Summary 
Statement,  pp.  631-643,  identical  with  the  original,  but  thus  transposed,  so 
that,  instead  of  preceding  the  Estimate  of  the  Western  Indians,  it  becomes  the 
last  of  the  appendicial  pieces  and  ends  the  volume. 

The  map  which  accompanies  this  edition  is  unfortunately  so  much  reduced  in 
size  as  to  be  very  obscure — in  fact,  the  "  track"  of  the  Expedition  is  scarcely 
visible  in  some  places  and  does  not  show  at  all  in  others.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  other  plates  are  reproduced  in  facsimile  from  their  respective  originals, 
and  actually  superior  ;  the  impressions,  at  least  in  the  copy  I  have  examineil, 
being  much  clearer.  This  edition — at  any  rate  the  cojiy  I  handled — had  six 
plates,  besides  the  map.  The  extra  one  is  a  view  (scenery)  of  the  Great  Falls  of 
the  Missouri.  This  1  know  nothing  about,  never  s.iw  elsewhere,  and  do  not  pre- 
tend to  account  for.  Lewis  says  somewhere  that  he  took  a  sketch  of  these 
Kails  ;  but  if  any  such  picture  was  ever  engraved  for  the  orig.  ed.  of  1814,  the 
fact  has  escaped  my  very  diligent  inquiry  into  the  composition  of  that  work. 

Excei)ting  the  very  defective  map,  this  Dublin  ed.  of  1817  is  a  better  made 


c\xx 


UIllLIOtiKArmCAL    INTRODUCTION. 


book  than  the  priuceps  itself,  superior  in  every  particular  of  its  mechanical 
executi»n  ;  besides  which,  it  is  literally  true  to  the  original,  and  thus  by  far  the 
best  reprint. 

During  the  period  from  1817  to  184J,  there  were  no 
editions  or  imprints  of  Lewis  and  Clark  that  I  know  of. 
At  the  later  date,  the  Messrs.  Harper  &  Brothers,  having 
procured  a  copyright,  made  the  first  issue  of  a  new  and 
modified  edition,  prepared  for  tliem  by  the  Rev.  Dr. 
M'Vickar.  There  have  been  a  great  many  (see  beyond) 
successive  re-issues  of  this  handy  httlc  abridgment,  all  of 
which,  however,  appear  to  have  been  printed  from  the  same 
plates.  Tiiey  are  in  fact  the  same  edition,  tliough  in  some 
of  the  copies  I  have  seen  the  maps  are  omitted.  The  follow- 
ing title  is  quoted  from  the  issue  of  1868 : 

[1842-91.]  History  \  of  \  the  Expedition  \  under  the  com- 
mand of  I  Captains  Leivis  and  Clarke,  \  to  \  the  soiirees  if 
the  Missouri,  thenee  across  the  Roeky  \  Mountains,  and 
doii<n  the  River  Columbia  to  the  \  Pacific  ocean  :  performed 
during  the  \  years  1804,  1805,  1806,  |  by  order  of  the  Gov- 
ernment of  the  United  States.  \  Prepared  for  the  press  \  by 
Paul  Allen,  Esq.  \  Revised,  and  abridged  by  the  omission  of 
unimportant  de-  |  tails,  zvith  an  introduction  and  notes,  \ 
by  Archibald  M'Vickar.  \  In  tzuo  volumes.  \  Vol.  I.  [//.] 
Nezu  York :  \  Harper  &  Brothers,  Publishers,  \  Franklin 
Square.  \  1868. 

7\c'o  vols.,  \Smo,  some  of  the  issues  forming  part  of 
Harpers'  series,  "The  Family  Library."  \  I'ol.  /.  //.  i-vi, 
{title  and  advt.)  i*-z'*,  {contents),  vii-li,  53-371,  i  folding 
and  3  other  maps.      Vol.  II,  pp.  i-x,  1 1-395,  3  maps. 

Uy  the  obliging  attentions  of  the  publishers  themselves,  I  l\ave  been  put  in 
possession  of  the  following  memoranda  of  the  dates  of  the  successive  issues,  most 
of  which  consisted  of  250  copies  :  September,  1842  ;  January,  1843  ;  M.iy, 
1843;  January,  1844;  July,  1845  ;  April,  1847;  May,  1850;  August,  1851  ; 
June,  1855;  April,  1858;  November,  i860;  February,  186S  ;  March,  1871 
(Vol.  II);  April,  1872  (Vol.  1);  February,  1874  (Vol.  II);  December,  1875 
(Vol,  I);  February,  l38l  ;  March,  1882;  July,  1883;  April,  lS36  ;  February, 
1886  ;  June,  1891 — in  all  20  issues  of  the  whole  work,  under  22  different  dates. 


I 


^ 


HIIll.KXikAI'linAI,    INTRODUCTION. 


CXXXI 


lilt 
list 

71 

?5 


The  AilviTtist'iiient  of  this  editiDt),  ilnted  March,  1843,  fully  explains  its 
character,  in  the  fnlli>\viM|r  extract:  "The  work  [1./.,  the  llidillc  cilition] 
licin^  now  nearly  out  of  print,  it  seemed  to  the  publishers  a  suitable  time  to  put 
forth  an  edition  of  the  Journal  of  Lewis  and  Clarke  pruned  of  unimportant 
tietails,  with  a  sketch  of  the  progress  of  maritime  discovery  on  the  Pacific  coast, 
a  summary  account  of  earlier  attempts  to  penetrate  this  vast  wilderness,  and 
such  extracts  and  illustrations  from  the  narratives  of  later  travelers,  led  by 
objects  of  traile,  the  love  of  science,  or  relitjious  zeal,  as  the  limits  of  the  under- 
taking would  allow.  [The  editor's  (M'Vickar's)  introduction,  pp.  vii.-li.  of 
Vol.  I,  consists  of  this  matter.]  The  matter  of  the  ori^^inal  journal  is  indicated 
by  inverted  cominas,  and  where  portions  of  it,  enibracinj;  minute  and  uninterest- 
inj;  particulars,  have  been  omitted,  the  leading  facts  have  been  briefly  stated  by 
the  editor  in  his  own  words,  so  that  the  connection  of  the  narrative  is  preserveil 
unbroken,  and  nothing  of  importance  is  lost  to  the  reader.  .  .  The  seventh 
chapter  of  the  second  volume  [of  the  American  edition  of  1814],  giving  nii 
account  of  the  quadrupeds,  birds,  aiul  ])laiits  found  on  t!ie  Columbia  ami  its 
tril)utaries,  has,  to  avoid  unnecessary  interruption  of  the  course  of  the  narrative, 
been  transferred  to  the  appendix." 

This,  then,  is  an  editorial  abridgment,  or  digest,  of  the  original ;  faithfully 
and,  on  the  whole,  judiciously  executed.  I"he  natural  history  chapter,  besides 
being  relegated  to  an  appendix,  is  transpose  is  to  its  b'  inical  and  zoological 
portions,  the  botany  coming  first  in  the  original,  the  zoology  in  the  present 
edition  ;  it  is,  furthermore,  like  the  rest  of  the  work,  abridged  at  the  editor's  dis- 
cretion,  the  omissions  being  indicated  by  .asterisks.  In  this  appendix  the  Esti- 
mate of  the  Western  Indians  is  given,  headed  however,  "  Enumeration  of 
Indian  Nations  and  tlioir  Places  of  General  Residence,"  and  is  not  printed  in 
the  awkward  form  of  the  original.  The  original  Summary  Statement  follows, 
printed  indifferent  form  from  the  original.  The  Thermometrical  Tables,  and 
their  accompanying  Remarks  and  Retlections,  are  omitted. 

There  is  a  slight  change  in  contents  of  the  two  \'ols.,  the  last  chapter  (xvii.)  of 
Vol.  I  of  the  original  being  carried  over  to  make  chap.  i.  of  Vol.  II  of  this  edi- 
tion ;  and  by  the  relegation  of  chap.  vii.  of  Vol,  II  of  the  original  to  the  appen- 
dix of  the  present  eilition,  the  numeration  of  the  chapters  is  altered,  though  they 
come  out  the  same  number  in  Vol,  II,  namely,  xix. 

The  "  contents  "  call  for  one  folding  map  and  6  other  plates,  3  in  each  Vol. 
I  accordingly  so  collate  the  book,  though  I  have  seen  copies  without  the  foUler, 
and  others  with  this  but  no  other  illustrations.  These  are  all  reduced  to  suit 
the  sm.ill  size  of  the  book,  and  the  map,  particularly,  is  too  small  to  trace  satis- 
factorily the  route. 

Hosides  the  imjiortant  and  interesting  eilitorial  introduction,  as  above  noticeil. 
Dr.  M'Vickar  supplies  various  footnotes,  but  attempts  no  systematic  criticism  of 
Lew  is  and  Clark's  geography,  ethnology,  or  natural  history. 

Sabin  says  that  the  M'Vickar  ed.  was  reprinted  in  London,  1842,  2  vols., 
i2mo,  with  modilied  title,  to  suit  the  English  demand  that  grew  out  of  the 
"  Oregon  fever  "  in  1842.  For  title,  see  Sabin's  No.  40,834,  on  p.  313  of  Vol. 
X.  of  his  liibl.  .Vnier. 


M 


CXXXll 


BIBLIOGRAPHICAL   INTRODUCTION. 


R^sum^  of  the  several  publications  noticed  in  the  foregoing 

pages. 

I.  Jefferson's  Message  and  Accompanying  Documents, 
8vo,  Washington,  A.  &  G.  Way,  1806. — The  same,  8vo,  New 
York,  Hopkins  &  Seymour,  1806. — The  same,  8vo,  Lon- 
don, R.  Phillips,  1807. — (The  three  preceding  genuine.) — 
The  same,  mutilated,  abridged,  and  "  Carverized  "  with  irrele- 
vant matter,  8vo,  London,  1809. — The  same,  do.,  do.,  do., 
i2mo,  Philadelphia,  H.  Lester,  1809.-— The  same,  with  slight 
modification,  1 2mo,  Baltimore,  W.  Fisher,  181 2  and  181 3. — 
The  same,  with  slight  further  alteration,  i6mo,  Dayton,  B.  F. 
Ells,  1840. — 8  editions  (all  spurious  except  the  first  three). 

n.  Gass'  Journal,  i2mo,  Pittsburgh,  D.  M'Keehan,  1807. 
The  same.  8vo.  London,  J,  Budd,  1808.  The  same,  i2mo, 
Philadelphia,  IVI.  Carey,  1810,  1811,  and  "  1812  "  (latter  not 
seen  by  me). — The  same,  8vo,  Paris,  A.  Bertrand,  1810 
(French  translation). — 6  editions  (all  genuine). 

in.  The  Biddle  History  of  the  Expedition,  2  vols., 
8vo,  Philadelphia,  Bradford  &  Inskeep,  1814. — The  same, 
I  vol.,  4to,  London,  T.  Rees,  1814. — The  same,  3  vols.,  8vo, 
London,  T.  Recs,  181 5  and  1817. — The  same  (?)  "  8vo, 
Weimar,  181 5  "  (German  something,  not  seen  by  me). — The 
same,  3  vols.,  8vo,  Dordrecht,  A.  Blusse  &  Zoon,  1816-18 
(Dutch  translation). — The  same,  2  vols.,  8vo,  Dublin,  J. 
Christie,  1817  (the  best  of  all). — The  same,  much  abridged, 
V.  ith  notes,  ';  vols.,  i8mo,  New  York,  Harper  &  Bro.,  1842- 
91. — 27  editions. 

In  all,^  40  or  41  different  imprints  of  the  three  series  of 
books,  about  20  of  which  may  be  considered  as  actually 
different  editions,  prior  to  the  appearance  of  the  4  vol.  ed. 
of  the  History,  New  York,  Francis  P.  Harper.  1893. 

'  Fvciuvive  cf  (ertaiii  issue?,  unknown  to  int,  Imt  ii:dii:ited  in  S:iMn's  I'il-I.  Anicr.,  as  duly 
noted  in  tlie  fiirt'i;uit!g  pages. 

The  basis  of  the  forej^oing  l*ihliographical  Intro(hiction  is  my  article  eutitleil  ;  An  Aecount 
of  the  various  Publications  relating  to  the  Travels  of  Lewis  a^d  Clarke  f.T/V],  with  a  Commen- 
tary on  the  Zoological  Uetults  of  their  Kxpedition,  in  H"!l.  u.  S.  Geol.  and  (Icogr.  Surv,  'I'err.. 
id  ser.,  No.  fi,  Feb.  .Sth,  i87d,  pp.  417-444,  and  separate,  Svo,  Washington,  1S76— the  same 
having  been  recast  and  improved  for  the  present  occasion. 


I 


'7 

I 


LEWIS  AND  CLARK'S  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  I. 

UP  THE   MISSOURI   TO  THE   PLATTE. 

Preliminaries-The    Expedition    leaves    Wood    river-Cold-water  creek-Piper's     landing- 
La  Chnrbonn.cre-Town  of  St.  Charles- Bon  Homme  river-Osage  Woman  river-Tav 
em  cave- Devil's  Kace-ground-La    Charrette-Buffalo,    Shepherd,    and    Ash    creeks- 
Gasconade  r.ver-Ueer  creek-Rush  creek-Iiig    and    Little   Muddy  rivers-Osage  river 
-Osago    Ind.an   traditions-Cupboard.  Moreau,  Cedar,   Nightingale.  Lead,  Little  Good 
Woman,  I.utle  Man.ton,  and  Split  Kock  creeks-Saline  r.ver-Rig  Manitou  river-tJood 
Woman  r,ver-Mme  river-Arrow  rock,  prairie,  and   creek-Blackbird  and  Deer  creeks 
-Ihe    two  Ch,,ntons-Des    Moines  rivcr-Chicot  or  Stump    island-Plum    creek-En' 
gagement    of    Mr.   Dnrion-Round    Bend    creek-lhe    Missouris-Grand    river-Sn  ,ke 
bluffs  and  creek-P..nther  island-Tiger  and  Tal.o  creeks-Sauk  prairie-L'Eau  Beau  or 
Clear-water    creek-Fire-prairie    creek-Fort    Point -Hay-cabin.    Chariton    scarty.    I.a 
Charbonn.ere,  La  Benite  and  Blue-water  creeks-The  Kansas  river  and   Indians-Little 
Sha  low    r.ver-D.amond    island-Iiiscuit    creek-Isles  des    Parcs-Park   creek-Turkey 
?„dr    ""7        "  r\^"^  i.^lands-Go.sling    l..ke-Fourth   of  July.   Independence. 
and\dlow.ochrecreeks-Reevey's  and    St.    .M,d,ael's   prairies-Ordway's  creek-Littl^ 
and  Great    Nadowa    .slands-Pike   pond-Monter's    creek-Loup  or  Wolf    river-Pane's 
creek-Solomon  s      island-Tarkio    creek-Nemaha    river-Rig    Tarkio    river-Nishna- 
batona    nver-L,.tle  Nemaha   r.ver-Fair    Sun    and    Bald   islands-Bald-pated  prairie- 
Oven  ,sl.,nds-lerr,ens    oven-L'Eau  qui   Pleure.   or  Weeping-waler-The    Expedition 
reaches  the  Pl.ute  nver.  and  o.nps  ten  miles  beyond  its  mouth. 

^N  the  acquisition  of  Louisiana,  in  the  year  1803  [April 
30th],  the  attention  of  the  Government  of  the  United 
States  was  earnestly  directed  toward  exploring  and  improv- 
ing the  new  territory.     Accordingly,  in  the  summer  of  the 
same  year,  an  expedition   was  planned  by    the  President 
[Jefferson]  for  the  purpose  of  discovering  the  courses  and 
sources  of  the  Missouri,  and   the  most  convenient  water 
communication  thence  to  the  Pacific  ocean.     His  private 
secretary,  Captain  Meriwetlier  Lewis,  and  Captain  William 
U.nk,   both    officers   of    the  Army  of  the  United  States 
were  associated  in  the  command  of  this  enterprise.     After 
receiving  the  requisite  instructions.  Captain  Lewis  left  the 


Pi 


2  ORGANIZATION   OF  THE   EXrEDITION. 

seat  of  government  [July  5th,  1803],  and  being  joined  by 
Captain  Clark  at  Louisville,  in  Kentucky,  proceeded  to  St. 
Louis,'  where  they  arrived  in  the  month  of  December. 
Their  original  intention  was  to  pass  the  winter  at  La  Char- 
rette  (/.  j),  the  highest  settlement  on  the  Missouri.  But  the 
Spanish  commandant  of  the  province,  not  having  received 
an  official  account  of  its  transfer  to  the  United  States,  was 
obliged  by  the  general  policy  of  his  government  to  prevent 
strangers  from  passing  through  the  Spanish  territory. 
They  therefore  camped  at  the  mouth  of  Wood  [Du  Bois] 
river,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Mississippi,  out  of  his 
jurisdiction,  where  they  passed  the  winter  in  disciplining 
the  men,  and  making  the  necessary  preparations  for  setting 
out  early  in  the  spring,  before  which  the  cession  was  ofifi- 
cially  announced. 

The  party  consisted  of  [the  two  ofificers]  ;  nineyoung  men 
from  Kentucky ;  14  soldiers  of  the  L^nitcd  States  Army,  who 
had  volunteered  their  services ;  two  French  watermen  [Cru- 
zattc,  Labichu]  ;  an  interpreter  and  hunter  [Drewyer]  ;  and  a 
black  servant  [York]  belonging  to  Captain  Clark.  All  these, 
except  the  last,  were  enlisted  to  serve  as  privates  during  the 
expedition,  and  three  sergeants  [Floyd,  Ordway,  Pryor,  were] 
appointed  from  among  them  by  the  captains.     In  addition 

'  Before  it  was  n.imed  St.  Louis,  this  place  r..:d  been  called  Pain  Court.  It 
was  founded  by  I'ierre  La  Clede  and  his  associates  in  1764,  or  not  until  84  years 
after  the  establishment  of  Fort  Crevecneur  on  the  Illinois  river,  and  was  lonjj 
inhabited  almost  exclusively  by  the  French.  In  Lewis  and  Clark's  time  it  was 
a  mere  village.  The  inhabitants  undertook  10  incorporate  as  a  town  July  23d, 
iSoS,  underanact  of  the  Territorial  Legislature  of  June  iSth,  1808.  l?ut  an  elec 
tion  of  trustees  made  on  the  former  date  proved  illegal,  and  the  mistake  was  not 
rectified  till  November  gth,  1809,  when  the  Court  of  Common  I'leas  was  petitioned 
for  incorporation.  The  Court  approved,  and  the  first  valid  election  of  trustees 
was  ordered  for  December 4th,  1809.  Probably  the  best  pen-pictureof  St.  Lo\iis 
during  the  ne.xt  few  years  is  in  Irving's  Astoria.  Up  to  1816  St.  Louis  was 
confined  to  its  original  three  streets.  The  first  oflicial  survey  of  the  town  was 
made  in  June,  1818,  by  Jose[)h  C.  Pirown,  Deputy  United  States  Surveyor.  In 
October.  1817,  "  Illinois  Town  "  was  laid  out,  opposite  St.  Louis. 

'  For  ratification  of  the  treaty,  and  actual  transfer  of  Louisiana  to  the  United 
States,  in  which  latter  transaction  Captain  Lewis  had  a  hand,  see  my  notes  near 
the  end  of  Jefferson's  memoir  of  Captain  Lewis,  aiiltd. 


STORES   AND   INDIAN   PRESENTS.  3 

to  these  were  engaged  a  corporal  and  six  soldiers,  and  nine 
watermen,  to  accompany  t!ie  expedition  as  far  as  the  Man- 
dan  nation,  in  order  to  assist  in  carrying  the  stores,  or  in  re- 
pelhng  an  attack,  wliich  was  most  to  be  apprehended  between 
Wood    river  and   that    tribe/     The  necessary  stores  were 
subdivided  into  seven  bales,  and  one  box  containing  a  small 
portion  of  each  article  in  case  of  accident.     They  consisted 
of  a  great  variety  of  clothing,  working  utensils,  locks,  flints 
powder,  ball,  and  articles  of  the  greatest  use.     To  these 
were  added  14  bales  and  one  box  of  Indian  presents,  dis- 
tributed m  the  same  manner,  and  composed  of  richly  laced 
coats  and  other  articles  of  dress,  medals,  flags,  knives,  and 
tomahawks  for  the  chiefs,  with  ornaments  of  different  kinds 
particulawy  beads,   looking-glasses,    handkerchiefs,  paints, 
and  generally  such  articles  as  were  deemed  best  calculated 

'  This  enumeration  c,f  forty-five  persons  agrees  with  the  number  stated  in  the 
Journal  o   (.ass,  who  counts  forty-tliree,  besides  the  two  captains.     The  ori.innl 
text  .s  amb,guous     for  "  an  interpreter  an.l  hunter  "  might  l,e  one  person    r': 
pe  sons,  and  „,  the  latter  case,  the  same  or  no,  the  san.c  as  the    '  two  Frencli 
N-ter,ncn.       I!u,  the  two  French  watermen  were  Cruxatte  and   l.abiche  •  and 
tlK.  nuerpre.er  and  ,ho  hunter  was  one  CJeorge  Drewyer  ;  thus  making  the'.otal 
45,  ^v.th  no  discrepancy  from  T.ass.     It  will  be  observed  that  16  of  the  men  were 
only  engaged   ,0  go  as  far  as  the  Mandans.     Who  they  were  is  unknown  now 
e-xcepttng  Corporal  Warrington.      The  muster  of   the  party  given  in  Chapter       ' 
"hen  the  Lxpedtfon  left  the  Mandans,  April  7,h,  1805,  includes  all  thi  l,!' 
winch  have  come  down  to  us  together  with  that  of  Charles  Flovd,  then  alreidv 
deceased,     f  .ass  says  (p.  12) :  "  The  corps  consisted  of  fortv-three  men  (  [besidesl 
."chuhng  Cap,a,„  Lewis  and  Captain  Clarke,  who  were  io  command  the  epe 
'  ...on),  pa.     of  the  regular  troops  of  the  United  .States,  and  part  eng.aged  for 
-h.s  part.cnlar  enterpnse.     The  expedition  was  embarked   on  board  a  batteaj 
and  two  pc.,ogues,"     HiHon's  Annals  of  St.  Louis  (,888,  p.  376)  makes  a  corre" 
count  o     the  party,  though  with  a  wrong  co.nposition.     ••  Capt.  Lewis's   pam^ 
conststed  or,g„,.a  ly  of  28  persons,  vi..:  ,  young  men  frotn  Kentuckv    ,4  U    S 

r  pra^l'""^;"  T'^'^'V"'";'  '■--  -^''  ^>-k.  -">  a  neg.;  sertani  of 
n  tv  I     nl-  r   '""";^''^'-^-   '"   "-   ^P-'«-  t-aptain  Lewis  added   to  his 

part  I  Indian  interpreter  [who  was  also  the]  l  hunter,  and  1,  U  ,  uA  boat 
hands,  the  party  then  numbering  45  in  all."  See  further  on  this'subje;-;  in  Chap- 
ter v„,  where  I  iscuss  the  official  list  of  twen.y-nine  persons  recogiized  bv  tlie 
g.ivernment  as  belonging  ,0  Captain  Lewis' party-this  being  the  number  of 
names  on  the  original  manuscript  muster-roll  which  I  have  examined  in  the 
arcliives  of  the  War  Department  at  Washing!, ,n. 


-  A 


■n  ■ 


4  DEPARTURE  OF  THE   EXPEDITION  FROM  WOOD  RIVER. 

for  the  taste  of  the  Indians.  The  party  was  to  embark  on 
board  of  three  boats  :  the  first  was  a  keel-boat  55  feet  long, 
drawing  three  feet  of  water,  carrying  one  large  square-sail 
and  22  oars.  A  deck  of  ten  feet  in  the  bow  and  stern  formed 
a  fore-  {p.  j)  castle  and  cabin,  whil:  the  middle  was  covered 
by  lockers,  which  might  be  raised  so  as  to  form  a  breast- 
work in  case  of  attack.  This  was  accompanied  by  two 
perioques'  or  open  boats,  one  of  six  and  the  other  of  seven 
oars.  Two  horses  were  at  the  same  time  to  be  led  along  the 
banks  of  the  river  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  home  game, 
or  hunting  in  case  of  scarcity. 

Of  the  proceedings  of  this  expedition,  the  following  is  a 
succinct  and  circumstantial  narrative.' 

All  the  preparations  being  completed,  we  left  our  camp 
on  Monday,  May  14th,  1804."  This  spot  is  at  the  mouth  of 
Wood  [Du  Bois]  river,  a  small  stream  which  empties  into 
the  Mississippi  [on  the  east  side],  opposite  the  entrance  of 
the  Missouri.  It  is  situated  in  latitude  38°  55'  19.6"  north, 
and  longitude  from  Greenwich  89°  57'  45"  west.  On  both 
sides  of  the  Mississippi  the  land  for  two  or  three  miles  is 


M 


*  Sic — misprint  for  "  periogue,"  the  usual  form  of  the  word  in  Lewis  and 
Clari{,  and  also  in  Gass.  The  letter  of  Captain  Lewis  to  President  Jefferson, 
dated  Fort  Mandan,  April  7th,  1805  (published  with  Jefferson's  Message  of  Feb- 
uary  i6th,  1806),  prints  "  peroque.''  Sometimes  the  word  occurs  as  "  perogue  "; 
never  once /;>o^w^,  the  accepted  spelling,  to  which  M'Vicker  alters  in  his  edition 
of  1842.  I  leave  it  as  I  find  it — "periogue."  Similar  boats  would  now  be 
named  Mackinaws.  They  have  been  much  used  on  the  Missouri,  I  traveled  in 
one  nearly  a  thousand  miles  down  the  river,  from  the  head  of  navigation  to 
Uismarck,  and  found  it  safe  and  commodious.  It  was  shaped  like  a  flat-iron, 
with  pointed  bow  but  square  stern,  flat-bottomed,  roomy  yet  with  little  draft, 
manned  with  four  oars,  and  steered  with  a  long  pivoted  sweep.  It  carried  a 
crew  of  twelve  men,  besides  myself  and  three  companions,  with  a  month's  pro- 
visions, and  could  be  fitted  with  a  m.-ist  and  sail  (made  of  a  tent-fly)  to  help  along 
when  the  wind  was  abaft  ;  yet  it  was  not  too  he.ivy  to  be  shoved  off  a  sand-bar 
when  we  ran  aground,  if  we  all  jumped  overboard — an  incident  that  no  day 
passed  without. 

'  The  foregoing  is  an  original  editorial  introduction  ;  the  narrative  of  Lewis 
and  Clark  begins  at  this  point. 

*  Captain  Clark  in  command  ;  Captain  Lewis  was  detained  a  few  days  (till 
May  2lst.)— (Jass,  p.  11. 


-# 


COLD-WATER   CREEK-LA   CHARUONNIERE.  5 

rich  and  level,  but  gradually  swells  into  a  high  pleasant 
country  with  less  timber  on  the  western  than  on  the  eastern 
side,  but  all  susceptible  of  cultivation.     The  point  which 
separates  the  two  rivers  on  the  north  extends  for  15  or  20 
m.les     he  greater  part  of  which  is  an  open  level  plain,  in 
wh.ch  the  people  of  the  neighborhood  cultivate  what  little 
gram   they   raise.      Not   being  able  to  set   sail   before  4 
onTh.r  'l''^^'"''^'  "'^re  than  four  miles,  and  camped 
on  tlie  first  island,  opposite  a  small  creek  called  Cold-water  ' 
Maj  ist/i.     The  rain,  which  had  continued  yesterday  and 
last  n.ght,  ceased  this  morn.^ng.     We  then  proceeded,  and 
atter  passmg  two  sma'!  islands  about  ten  miles  further 

an>nt  J  \vT  '!  ';"'  ""''y  '■•'^P''^'  ^"^  ^he  banks  are 
al  .ng  .n.     We  found  that  our  boat  was  too  heavily  laden 
n  the  stern,  m  consequence  of  which  she  ran  on  logs  three 
times  to-day.     It  became  necessary  to  throw  the  greatest 
weight  on  the  bow  of  the  boat,  a  precaution  very  ne^cessary 
T"u'"?^^-  ^^  ^°'^'  '^'^  ^'■^^^"••'  ^"d  Mississippi  rivers 
JimLer.  °'   "'"'    ''^  ^"^'   ^"^"^'^'^  °^  ---1^^ 

The  next  morning  [May  i6th]  we  set  sail  at  five  o'clock. 
At   he  distance  of  a  few  miles,  we  passed  a  remarkable  large 
coal  lull  on  the  north  side,  called  by  the  French  La  Char- 
bonn.^re.  and  arrived  at  the  town  of  St.  Charles  [at  2  p  m  I 
Here  we  remained  a  few  days. 

'  ''Camped  on  the  north  bank  six  miles  up  the  river. "-Gass  n    ,2      Thi 
r^  :r  Wi  r  "^•"^^""'"^'  '"'"'  '  ""''-^  '-^  -^  estabiishe  V  G e'  ! 

^^::^:p;rr-Li:tzr 

'Without  any  accent  in  the  original  text ;  also,  often  spelled  with  one  ;,  in 
bo.,ks  of  that  date  and  subsequently.  It  means  a  coal-p'  or  colliery  Tl  e 
name  was  g.ven  by  the  French  watermen  and  the  early  setters,   from  "he  iS 

DvriL      I     .K       ,         ,  ''"   '"P''°^^^   '"  ^'  ''"^  '°  the  decompostion  of 
pyntes.     Another  place,  further  up  the  river,  receives  the  same  name 


6  THE  TOWN  OF   ST.   CHARLES. 

St.  Charles'  is  a  small  town  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Missouri,  about  21  miles  from  its  confluence  witli  the  Mis- 
sissippi. It  is  situated  in  a  narrow  plain,  sufficiently  high 
to  protect  it  from  the  annual  rising  of  the  river  in  June,  and 
at  the  foot  of  a  range  of  small  hills,  which  have  occasioned 
its  being  called  Petite  Cote,'"  a  name  by  wliich  it  is  more 
known  to  the  French  than  by  that  of  St.  Charles.  One 
principal  street,  about  a  mile  in  length  and  running  parallel 
with  the  river,  divides  the  town,  which  is  composed  of  nearly 
lOO  small  wooden  houses,  besides  a  chapel.  The  inhabit- 
ants, about  450  in  number,  are  chiefly  descendants  from  the 
French  of  Canada.  In  their  manners  they  unite  all  the 
careless  gayety  and  amiable  hospitality  of  the  best  times  of 
France.  Yet,  like  most  of  their  countrymen  in  America, 
they  are  but  ill  qualified  for  the  rude  life  of  the  frontier — 
not  that  they  are  without  talent,  for  they  possess  much 
natural  genius  and  vivacity;  not  that  they  are  destitute  of 
enterprise,  for  their  hunting  excursions  are  long,  laborious, 
and  hazardous;  but  their  exertions  are  all  desultory;  their 
industry  is  without  system  and  without  perseverance.  The 
surrounding  country,  therefore,  though  rich,  is  not  generally 
well  cultivated;  the  inhabitants  chiefly  subsist  by  hunting 
and  trade  with  the  Indians,  and  confine  their  culture  to 
gardening,  in  which  they  excel. 

Alnv  2\st.  Being  joined  by  Captain  Lewis  who  had 
been  detained  by  business  at  St.  Louis,  we  set  sail  on 
Monday,  May  2lst,  in  the  afternoon  [4  p.  m.],  but  were 


'  Now  .It  the  same  site  and  by  same  name,  in  St.  Ch.irles  Qo. .  Mn.  The 
town  declined  somewhat  after  Lewis  and  Cl.Trk's  visit,  but  had  befjun  to  revive 
when  Major  Long's  party  passed  it  on  the  "Western  Engineer,"  Tune  26th, 
1819.     Pop.  lately  s.cxjc. 

'"  Not  accented  in  the  original  text.  This  French  n.nine  for  .1  range  of  hills 
or  the  like  acclivity,  formerly  very  common  in  the  West,  is  usually  superseded 
now  by  its  synonym  in  this  sense,  cotean  :  as.  Cotcau  dc  Missouri.  The  latter 
is  often  spoken  as  an  English  word  in  the  West ;  as,  a  prairie  coteau.  The 
most  notable  instance  of  the  retention  of  the  word  is  probably  its  applicntion  to 
the  ver>'  long,  but  low,  dividing  ridge  which  separates  the  Missouri  watershed 
from  that  of  Mouse  river,  a  tributary  of  the  Assiniboin. 


BON   HOMME   RIVER— KICKAPOO   INDIANS.  7 

prevented  by  wind  and  rain  from  going  more  than  about 
three  m.les,  when  we  camp.  (/.  j)  ed  on  the  upper  point  of 
an  island,  nearly  opposite  a  creek  which  falls  in  on  the 
south  side. 

Maj>  22d.     We   made   about    18   miles,  passing  several 
small   arms  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  a  number  of  islands 
and  a  arge  creek  on  the  south  side,  called  Bon  Homme,  o^ 
Good  Man  s  river."     A  small  number  of  emigrants  from  the 
United  States  have  settled  on  the   banks  of  this  creek 
vhich  are  very  fertile.     We  also  passed  some  high  lands' 
and  camped  on  the  north  side,  near  a  small  creek.     Here 
we  met  with  a  camp  of  Kickapoo  '»  Indians,  who  had  left  us 
at  bt.  Charles  with  a  promise  of  procuring  us  some  pro- 
visions  by  the  time  we  overtook  them.     They  made  us  a 
present  of  four  deer,  and  we  gave  them    in    return    two 
quarts  of  whisky.     This  tribe  reside  on  the  heads  of  the 
Kaskaskia  and  Illinois  rivers,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, but  occasionally  hunt  on  the  Missouri. 

May  2id.  Two  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night  we 
reached  a  river  emptying  itself  on  the  north  side,  called 
[Femme  Osage  or]  Osage  Woman  river."  It  is  about  30 
yards  wide,  and  has  a  settlement  of  30  or  40  families  from 

"Of  varying  form.  Hon    Homme   or   Donhomme ;    Lewis  and  Clarke  use 
the  latter  (m.spnnted  Ronhommer  in  the  Dublin  ed.,  1817).     Gass  spells  it 
ronum,    p.  ,3.     There  is  still  a  place  of  this  name  in  St.  Louis  Co..  Mo    not  to 
.'t.     "    :  '''"^  °"'  ""^  '^"^  '"""^  "^""^ '"  ''*•  ^'^°'^-    See  Sept.  ist,  beyond 
The   K.ckapoos  come  of  the  great  Algonquian  family  or  linguistic  stock" 
and  «.ere  among  the  principal  tribes,  of  which  about  36  are  now  recognized 
Ihe  name,  .according  to  different  .luthorities,  is  either  (.)  a  corruption  of  the 
Pox  word  g,kapu.  signifying  -'smooth,   without  rapids  or  obstruction  "  as  a 
nver.     or  (2)  a  Pottawattomi  word,  meaning  "one  who  stands  firmly."  from 
k.-.k..bu,  to  stand  ;    or  (3)  a  derisive  term,  meaning  "otter's  ghost."     Of  all  the 
Algonkms   „,  a  broad  sense,  there  are  now  left   about  95.0cx>.  of  whom  35,Ooo 
are  m  the  Umted  St..tes  and  60,000  in  Canada.     Of  these  the  Kickapoos  are  a 
mere  h.andful-according  to  the  latest  returns,  325  at  the  Sac  and  Fox  agency. 
Indian  Terr    and  237  at  the  Pottawattomi  agency,  Kas.     Pesides  these   there 
are  supposed  to  be  some  200  Kickapoos  in  Mexico. 

"In  (iass  noted  simply  as  "the  Os.ige  River,"  with  editorial  footnote  surmis- 
.ng  perhaps  Ltttle  Osage."  The  mistake  was  in  not  noting  "  Fr>,n,„  O.age  " 
On  Lew,5  map  of  1806  (pub.  1887)  the  name  stands  "Ossage  Womans  Cr  '• 


8      THE  TAVERN— devil's  RACE-GROUND— LA  CHARRETTE. 

the  United  States.  About  a  mile  and  a  half  beyond  this  is 
a  large  cave  on  the  south  side,  at  the  foot  of  cliffs  nearly  300 
feet  high,  overhanging  the  water,  which  becomes  very  swift 
at  this  place.  The  cave  is  120  feet  wide,  40  feet  deep, 
and  20  high ;  it  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  Tavern " 
among  the  traders,  who  have  written  their  names  on  the 
rock  and  painted  some  images  which  command  the  homage 
of  the  Indians  and  French.  About  a  mile  further  we  passed 
a  small  creek  called  Tavern  creek,  and  camped  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river,  having  gone  nine  miles. 

May  2^th.  Early  this  morning  we  ascended  a  very  diffi- 
cult rapid,  called  the  Devil's  Race-ground,  where  the  current 
sets  for  half  a  mile  against  some  projecting  rocks  on  the 
south  side.  We  were  less  fortunate  in  attempting  a  second 
rapid  of  equal  difficulty.  Passing  near  the  southern  shore, 
the  (/.  6)  bank  fell  in  so  fast  as  to  oblige  us  to  cross  the  river 
instantly,  between  the  northern  side  and  a  sand-bar  which 
is  constantly  moving  and  banking  with  the  violence  of  the 
current.  The  boat  struck  on  it,  and  would  have  upset 
immediately  if  the  men  had  not  jumped  into  the  water  and 
held  her  till  the  sand  washed  from  under  her.  We  camped 
on  the  south  side,  having  ascended  ten  miles. 

Mayz^th.  Passed  on  the  south  side  the  mouth  of  Wood  " 
river,  on  the  north  two  small  creeks  and  several  islands, 
and  stopped  for  the  night  at  the  entrance  of  a  creek  on  the 
north  side,  called  by  the  French  La  Charrette,"  ten  miles 
from  our  last  camp,  and  a  little  above  a  small  village  of  the 
same  name.  It  consists  of  seven  small  houses,  and  as  many 
poor  families,  who  have  fixed  themselves  here  for  the  con- 

'^Gass  calls  it  Tavern  cove,  p.  13.     See  Brackenridge's  Journal,  1814,  p.  203. 

"  Not  to  be  confounded  with  another  of  the  same  name  :  see  May  14th. 

'*Gass  calls  this  St.  Johns,  p.  13.  This  village  was  founded  by  the  original 
French  colonists.  It  was  about  this  time  a  residence  of  the  famous  Daniel 
Boone  (b.  Bucks  Co.,  Pa.,  Feb.  nth,  1735),  type  of  American  backwoodsman, 
who  was  met  hereby  the  overland  party  of  "Astorians,"  in  January,  1811,  avery 
old  man,  but  still  erect  in  form,  strong  in  limb,  and  unflinching  in  spirit.  This 
Nestor  died  in  La  Charrette,  Sept.  26th,  1820,  full  of  sylvan  honor  and  renown. 
His  latter  years  were  spent  with  his  son-in-law  Flanders  Callaway.    (Compare 


BUFFALO  AND  OTTER  ISLANDS— GASCONADE   RIVER.      9 

venieiice  of  trade.  They  form  the  last  establishment  of 
whites  on  the  Missouri.  It  rained  last  night,  yet  we  found 
this  morning  that  the  river  had  fallen  several  inches. 

May  zdth. — The  wind  being  favorable,  we  made  18  miles 
to-day.  We  passed  in  the  morning  several  islands,  the 
largest  of  which  is  Buffalo  island,  separated  from  the 
southern  side  by  a  small  channel  which  receives  the  waters 
of  Buffalo  creek.  On  the  same  side  is  Shepherd's  creek,  a 
little  beyond  which  we  camped  on  the  northern  side. 

May  27///. — We  sailed  along  a  large  island  called  Otter 
island,  on  the  northern  side.  This  is  nearly  ten  miles  in 
length,  narrow  but  high  in  its  situation,  and  one  of  the 
most  fertile  in  the  whole  river.  Between  it  and  the  northern 
shore,  three  small  creeks,  one  of  which  has  the  same  name 
[Otter"]  with  the  island, empty.  On  the  southern  shore  is 
a  creek  20  yards  wide,  called  Ash  creek.  In  the  course  of 
the  day  we  met  two  canoes  loaded  with  furs,  whic'i  had  been 
two  months  on  their  route  from  the  Mahar  [Omaha]  nation, 
residing  more  than  700  miles  up  the  river,  one  large  raft 
from  the  Pawnees  on  the  Platte  river,  and  three  others  from 
the  Grand  Osage  river.  At  (/.  7)  the  distance  of  15  miles 
we  camped  on  a  willow-island,  at  the  entrance  of  Gasconade 
river."  Tliis  river  falls  into  the  Missouri  from  the  south,  100 
miles  from  the  Mississippi.     Its  length  is  about  150  miles, 

Irving's  Astoria,  ed.  1861,  p.  146,  and  Appleton's  Amer.  Cyclop.  II.,  p.  83.) 
The  Missouri  Gazette  of  Jan.  17th,  1814,  notes  an  Act  of  Congress  for  the  relief 
of  Colonel  Daniel  Boone,  confirming  to  him  1000  arpents  of  land,  claimed  by 
him  under  a  grant  of  Jan.  zSth,  1798,  and  the  Recorder  of  Land  Titles  for  the 
Territory  of  Missouri  is  directed  to  issue  to  him  a  certificate  for  the  same. 
Approved  by  James  Madison,  President  U.  S. 

" Or  in  those  days  the  corresponding  French  name  Loulie,  which  our  text 
tr.'inslates  into  English.  Thus  we  read  in  Long's  Expedition  of  Loutre  island, 
creek,  .ind  prairie,  the  latter  described  as  23  miles  long  (p.  68  of  the  London 
ed).  A  Mr.  Talbot  of  Kentucky  settled  at  Loutre  or  Otter  creek,  in  1810. 
When  M.ijor  Long's  Expedition  passed  in  i8ig  several  forts  had  been  built  for 
protection  against  the  Indians,  chiefly  Sacs  and  Kickapoos.  Near  here  was  the 
scene  of  the  massacre  of  Captain  Callaway  and  his  men. 

"  The  first  considerable  river  that  falls  into  the  Missouri  entirely  within  the 
State  of  the  same  name.     Its  mouth  is  in  Gasconade  Co.,  Mo  ,  half  a  mile  above 


10 


SEVERAL  TRIBUTARIES  OF  THE   MISSOURI. 


in  a  course  generally  northeast,  through  a  hilly  country. 
On  its  banks  are  a  number  of  saltpetre  caves,  and  it  is 
believed  some  mines  of  lead  are  in  the  vicinity.  Its  width 
at  the  mouth  is  157  yards,  and  its  depth  19  feet. 

May  2S//1. — Here  we  halted  for  the  purpose  of  hunting, 
drying  our  provisions,  and  making  the  necessary  celestial 
observations. 

May  2gf/i. — We  set  sail  at  four  o'clock  [p.  m.] "  and  at 
four  miles  distant  camped  on  the  south  side,  above  a  small 
creek,  called  Deer  creek. 

May  lOth. — We  set  out  early,  and  at  two  miles  distant 
reached  a  large  cave,  on  the  north,  called  Montbrun's 
["  Mombran's "  in  Gass]  tavern,  after  a  French  trader  of 
that  name,  just  above  a  creek  called  after  the  same  person. 
Beyond  this  is  a  large  island.  At  the  distance  of  four 
miles,  Rush  creek  comes  in  from  the  south;  at  11,  Big 
Muddy  river  on  the  north,  about  50  yards  wide ;  three 
miles  further  is  Little  Muddy  river  on  the  same  side  [in 
Callaway  Co.,  Mo.],  opposite  to  which  we  camped,  at  the 
mouth  of  Grindstone  creek  [Osage  Co.].  The  rain  which 
began  last  night  continued  through  the  day,  accompanied 
with  high  wind  and  some  hail.  The  river  has  been  rising 
fast  for  two  days,  and  the  country  around  appears  full  of 
water.  Along  the  sides  of  the  river  we  observe  much 
timber,  the  Cottonwood,  sycamore,  hickory,  white  walnut, 
some  grapevines,  and  rushes.  The  high  west  wind  and 
rain  compelled  us  to  remain  all  the  next  day,  May  31st. 
In  the  afternoon  a  boat  came  down  from  the  Grand  Osage 
river,  bringing  a  letter  from  a  person  sent  to  the  Osage 
nation  on  the  Arkansaw  river,  which  mentioned  that  the 

a  marked  mass  of  rocks  which  were  ornamented  with  Indian  pictographs.  It 
rises  in  hilly  country  near  some  of  the  sources  of  the  Voungar  or  Yungar  branch 
of  the  Grand  Osage,  and  has  a  clear,  rapid  current,  navigable  for  a  few  miles 
only.     The  name  was  often  spelled  "Gaskenade,"  as  in  Gass,  p.  14. 

"  The  late  start  is  accounted  for  by  Gass,  who  says  :  "  Tuesday  2gtA. — 
Seven  men  were  sent  out  to  hunt,  six  of  whom  returned.  We  waited  here  till 
5  o'clock  p.  m.  for  the  man  who  had  not  come  in,  and  then  proceeded,"  etc., 
p.  14. 


BEAR  CREEK— OSAGE   RIVER. 


II 


letter  announcing  the  cession  of  Louisiana  had  been  com- 
mitted to  the  flames  ;  that  the  Indians  would  not  believe 
that  the  Americans  were  owners  of  that  country,  and  dis- 
regarded St.  Louis  and  its  supplies.  The  party  was  occu- 
pied in  hunting,  in  the  course  of  which  they  caught  in(/.  S) 
the  woods  several  very  large  rats  \^Neotoma  Jloridana :  see 
note  under  date  of  July  7th,  beyond]. 

Friday,  June  \st,  1804. — We  set  sail  early  this  morning, 
and  at  six  miles  distant  passed  Bear  creek,  a  stream  about 
25  yards  wide  ;  but  the  wind  being  ahead  and  the  current 
rapid,  we  were  unable  to  make  more  than  13  miles,  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Osage  river.  Here  we  camped  and  remained 
the  following  day,  for  the  purpose  of  making  celestial  ob- 
servations."' 

The  Osage  empties  itself  into  the  Missouri  at  133  miles 
distant  from  the  mouth  of  the  latter.  Its  general  course 
is  west  and  west-southwest  through  a  rich  and  level  coun- 
try.^' At  the  junction  the  Missouri  is  about  875  yards 
wide,  and  the  Osage  397."  The  low  point  of  junction 
is  in  latitude  38°  31'  16"  north,  and  at  a  short  distance 
from  it  is  a  higli  commanding  position,  whence  we  enjoyed 
a  delightful  prospect  of  the  country. 

The  Osage  river  gives  or  owes  its  name  to  a  nation  in- 

'"Gass  notes  here  that  the  periogue  which  had  been  left  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Gasconade  for  the  missing  hunter  came  up  with  the  man  who  had  been  lost. 

"  The  Osage  rises  in  Kansas,  south  of  the  Kansas  river,  in  a  range  of  hills 
which  were  known  as  the  Ozark  mountains.  It  enters  Missouri,  and  empties 
into  the  Missouri  below  Jefferson  City,  separating  Cole  from  Osage  Co.  The 
course  is  cistwardly — the  direction  stated  by  the  authors  being/row  the  Missouri. 
The  largest  tributary  was  called  the  Youngar  or  Vungar,  falling  in  about  140 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Osage.  In  Long's  Expedition,  which  passed  here 
in  July,  1819,  there  are  noted,  between  the  Gasconade  and  the  Osage,  "Bear 
creek,  the  Au  Vase,  and  other  tributaries,"  but  the  only  locality  marked  on 
Long's  map  is  the  village  of  Cote  sans  Dessein,  opposite  the  lower  mouth  of  the 
Os.ige,  and  then  containing  about  30  families,  mostly  French.  This  place  was 
established  about  1808,  and  so  named  from  a  neighboring  hill.  Here  was  an 
attack  and  massacre  during  the  late  war  by  Sacs,  Foxes,  and  lowas  ;  the  hero 
of  which  affair  was  there  when  Long's  Expedition  passed.  See  Brackenridge's 
Journal,  18 14,  p.  209. 

"  Gass  makes  it  197,  and  gives  the  Missouri  as  875,  as  in  our  text. 


'I  I 


la 


THE  OSAOE   INDIANS. 


habiting  its  banks  nt  a  considerable  distance  from  this  place. 
Their  present  name,  however,  seems  to  have  originated 
from  the  French  traders,  for  both  among  themselves  and 
their  neighbors  they  are  called  the  Wasbashas."  They 
number  between  1,200  and  1,300  warriors,  and  consist  of 
three  tribes:  the  Great  Osages, of  about  500 warriors,  living 
in  a  village  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river;  the  Little 
Osages,  of  nearly  half  that  number,  residing  at  the  distance 
of  six  miles  from  them  ;  and  the  Arkansaw  band,"  a  colony 
of  Osages,  of  600  warriors,  who  left  them  some  years  ago, 
under  the  command  of  a  chief  called  Big-foot,  and  settled 
on  the  Vermilion  river,  a  branch  of  the  Arkansaw.  In  per- 
son the  Osages  are  among  the  largest  and  best-formed 
Indians,  and  are  said  to  possess  fine  military  capacities;  but 
residing  as  they  do  in  villages,  and  having  made  consider, 
able  advance  in  agriculture,  they  seem  less  addicted  to  war 
than  their  northern  neighbors,  to  whom  the  use  of  rifles 
gives  a  great  superiority. 

Among  the  peculiarities  of  this  people,  there  is  nothing 
more  re-  (/.  p)  markable  than  the  tradition  relative  to  their 
origin.     According  to  universal  belief,  the  founder  of  the 

"  Wabasha,  whence  our  familiar  word  Wabash,  is  corrupted  from  U'azhazhn, 
the  Dakdtan  name  of  the  Osage  Indians.  Other  forms  of  the  word  are  ll'ajoja 
and  H'liwsashe.  The  Osaj»es  call  themselves  ll'acacf,  pronounced  nearly 
"  Wazhazhe."     Osage  is  twice  misspelled  "  Ossage  "  on  Lewis'  map  of  1806. 

'■*  This  "  Arkansaw  band  "  of  Osages  must  not  be  confounded  with  the  Ar- 
kansaw or  Arkensa  Indians  of  early  times,  now  known  as  the  Qu.npaw  (Kwapa) 
tribe  of  the  great  Siouan  family.  In  1805,  according  to  Dr.  Sibley,  the  latter 
lived  along  the  Arkansaw  river,  in  three  villages  on  the  south  side,  about  twelve 
miles  above  the  post  or  station.  He  believed  that  at  that  date  they  did  not  ex- 
ceed 100  men  in  number,  and  were  diminishing.  They  were  at  war  with  u,» 
Osages,  their  own  relations,  but  friendly  with  all  other  Indians,  and  i  •*' 
whites.     They  were  considered  the  proprietors  of  the  country  on  the  Ai  >v 

up  to  the  forks,  or  to  the  country  claimed  by  the  Osages,  and   cultivate^       1  n. 

The  native  name  of  the  Arkansaw  band  signifies  "  Dwellers  in  a  Highland 
Grove."     This  band  spoke  the  Osage  language. 

The  two  Osage  nations  and  the  Arkansaw  band  constituted  a  principal  tribe 
of  the  great  Siouan  family.  They  numbered,  in  iSqi,  1,500  at  the  Osage  agency. 
Indian  Terr.;  besides  which  there  were  65  at  school  in  Lawrence,  Kas.,  and  six 
at  Carlisle,  Pa. 


lM 


:  ••■■'•^#ni«-.is**^w»-'^ 


OSAdK.   TkAMlIONS— CUrilOAKD    CKI'KK. 


'3 


nation  was  a  snail  passing  a  quiet  existence  along  the  banks 
of  the  Osage,  till  a  liigii  floud  swept  liim  clown  to  the  Mis- 
souri, and  left  him  exposed  on  the  shore.     Tiie  heat  of  the 


sun  at  length  ripened  him  into  a  man  ;  but  with  the  change 
of  his  nature  he  had  not  forgotten  his  native  seat  on  the 
Osage,  toward  which  he  immediately  bent  his  way.  He 
was,  however,  soon  overtaken  by  hunger  and  fatigue,  when 
happily  the  Great  Spirit  appeared,  and  giving  him  a  bow 
and  arrow,  showed  him  how  to  kill  and  cook  deer,  and  cover 
himself  with  the  skin.  He  then  proceeded  to  ins  original 
residence,  but  as  he  approached  the  river,  he  was  met  by  a 
beaver,  who  inquired  haughtily  who  he  was,  and  by  what 
authority  he  came  to  disturb  his  possession.  The  Osage 
answered  that  the  river  was  his  ov/n,  for  he  had  once  lived 
on  its  borders.  As  they  stood  disputing,  the  daughter  of 
the  beaver  came,  and  having  by  her  entreaties  reconciled 
her  father  to  this  young  stranger,  it  was  proposed  that  the 
Osage  should  marry  the  young  beaver,  and  share  with  her 
family  the  enjoyment  of  the  river.  The  Osage  readily  con- 
sented, and  from  this  happy  union  there  soon  came  the  vil- 
lage and  the  nation  of  the  Wabasha,  or  Osages,  who  have 
ever  since  preserved  a  pious  reverence  for  their  ances- 
tors, abstaining  from  the  chase  of  the  beaver,  because  in 
killing  that  animal  tliey  killed  a  brother  of  the  Osage. 
Of  late  years,  however,  since  the  trade  with  the  whites 
has  rendered  beaver-skins  more  valuable,  the  sanctity  of 
these  maternal  relatives  has  visibly  reduced,  and  the 
poor  animals  have  nearly  lost  all  their  privileges  of 
kindred. 

June  %d.  On  the  afternoon  we  proceeded,  and  at  three 
miles  distant  reached  a  creek,  called  Cupboard"  creek,  from 
a  rock  of  that  appearance  near  its  entrance.     Two  miles 


r 

lix 


"  Not  marked  on  Clark's  map,  1814  ;  not  on  Nicollet's  map,  1843,  nor  Oen, 
land  Office  map,  1876,  nor  on  U.  S.  Geol.  Surv,  map,  nor  on  Mo.  R.  Com- 
mission map  ;  an  insignificant  stream  ;  liv  the  text  three-fifths  of  the  way  from 
the  Osage  to  the  Moreau,  by  the  Mo.  R,  Comm.  distances  140  miles  from  mouth 
of  the  Missouri,  and  now  called  Rising  creek. 


14     MORKAU,   NKWiriNGALE,  CEDAK,   AM)   MAST  CREEKS. 

further  we  camped  at  Moreau"  creek,  a  stream  20  yards  wide, 
on  tlie  southern  side. 

June  ^tli.  This  morning  we  passed,  at  an  early  hour, 
Cedar  island  on  the  north,  so  called  (/>.  id)  from  the 
abundance  of  the  tree  of  that  name.  Near  this  is  a  small 
creek,  which  we  named  Nightingale"  creek,  from  a  bird  of 
that  species  which  sang  for  us  during  the  night.  Beyond 
Cedar  island  are  some  others  of  smaller  extent,  and  at 
seven  miles'  distance  is  a  creek  15  or  20  yards  wide,  enter- 
ing from  the  north,  known  by  the  name  of  Cedar  creek. "" 
At  "jYi  miles  further,  we  passed  on  the  south  side  another 
creek,  which  we  called  Mast"  creek,  from  the  circum- 
stance of  our  mast  being  broken  by  running  under  a 
concealed  tree.  A  little  above  is  anotiier  creek  on 
the  left,  one  mile  beyond  which  we  crimped  on  the 
southern  shore  under  high  projecting  cliffs.  The  French 
had  reported  that  lead  ore  was  to  be  found  in  this  place, 
but  on  examining  the  hills  we  could  discern  no  appear- 
ance of  that  mineral."     Along  the  river  on  the  south,  is  a 


I 


'''  Present  name  of  that  river  which  empties  into  the  Missouri  in  Cole  Co.,  a 
little  below  the  capital  of  the  state,  Jefferson  City  (formerly  Missouriopolis,  as 
on  Long's  map,  1S23).  It  is  laid  down,  unlettered,  by  D'Anville,  1752;  it  is  K, 
i  ^[orou  of  I'errin  du  Lac,  1805;  Marrow  Cr.  ci  Lewis,  l3o6  (laid  down,  tin 
iettcreil,  by  Clark,  1814);  of  Gass,  1807;  of  Brackenridge  1816;  Murrow  in 
Lewis  and  Clark's  text  later  on.  The  name  is  I'rench.  certainly  personal 
(Moreau's  Cr.  of  Lonj;.  1S23),  but  of  uncertain  sense  in  its  application  to  the 
river,  as  it  might  mean  either  "  nose  bag  "  or  "  black  horse." 

"  No  species  of  nightingale '/'i/m/iii>  /ui\iiii,i).  in  any  proner  sense  of  the 
word,  is  found  in  Xorth  .Vmerica.  The  so-called  "  Virgin- .  nightingale  "  is 
the  cardinal  red-bird  {CiirMitii/is  fiixi'iinutiA. 

'"  Cedar  island  and  creek  (or  river)  are  present  na  in..-j  on  ordinary  maps  ;  .it 
mouth  of  the  stream  is  Cedar  City,  Calloway  Co.,  opposite  Jefferson  City. 
Several  other  places  called  "  Cedar  "  will  occur  in  our  te.xt. 

■"'  .\Lirked,  unlettered,  on  Lewis' map,  1806  ;  not  on  Clark's,  1814,  nor  on 
any  other  maps  examined.  The  name  occurs  in  Long's  text,  1823,  but  has  lung 
since  lapsed,  and  the  creek  is  probably  not  identifiable  with  certainty.  It  may 
be  sought  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  about  150  miles  up,  by  Mo.  R.  Com 
mission  ilistances. 

'"  This  place  is  elsewhere  called  Lead-mine  hill,  as  also  by  Brackenridge,  1814, 
who  locates  it  nine  miles  above  Cedar  creek. 


I 


i 


™:.OO.WO^UN.u™MA^^TOU.ETC.,CKHEKS      .5 

walnut  timber.      On     he  torth  T  '    ,   ''T'   "*'''  ''''  ''"^^ 
situated.     We    made     rt  ?  ''"''  '''  '■''^''  •"•"^  "ell 

falling  slowlj'  '^^^    "'""  ^'^'^    ^-y-     The   rive,-   is 

onthe„ortha-n:"  'totl.  ;::tr"  'r^  --!>:  another. 
Good  Woman  creek-  n  H  V  .^ '''"  "^'"^'"^  "^  Little 
^outh,  were  the  onlv.;  ^^^""   ^^'^^  ^^"'^'^'   '-■'^^'l^'.  on  the 

eieve.;o.io:k\r  "t:^;;::^^^^''''""'-'''''^'^'  ^^ 

^^>^-ther,  in  ,,„ich  two   ^      ,"   fr'  i      '""   "'"^^  ^■^'"^■^' 
from    80   leagues    up    the  K  '"  ''"''"  ^''-'^'^'-•'Hii.ig, 

wintered   and   ouZ  .'"'"'    '■'^''■'    "'''^^•'-^  ^'''-T   I'ad 

told  us  that  the  Ka,m     „^-  "      '  P"'"''''"^-     ^''^T 

ti- plain,  hav4l^;^j^'';;;;  ;^"-^uuuiug  ,,ff,,,  i^ 

Tu.)  niiles  further  we    "  Che  H      "'"'"'  ^^"   ^'"'^   ••■■^•^'••• 

creeic.  which  takes    ts;/      ^''^  ■^-'^'' kittle  Manitou" 
^Hngthehustora,;:;;;;;      ,:i^J-7^'^^--eresem. 

^'pjKctingrock.  Which  ma,  reprr::::^;^.!::;:;::- 

;;-  ^"U.h,  ,.„K,  is  ,:.„  ,„  a,,;,:;  '    ;  ;  ;;•-  -;"  ^'-'i'^au  (.,. ,  counties  on 

(«•'"•n.■e/.,,,/.^,,,„,„„„f„„^^  '.'J  "fM^.n,tou  of  IV„in  du  Lac.  ,8.„ 
of  I!ra..enn,i,e,  ,8r,  ,,  .;::^  \;,T";'",r  "^  ff-"'-' ■^43;  Ma„i,„; 
"  painted  rocks  "  of  the    ,.vf  n  „        ,  ''•""'"""       '^'•^■ek-,   p    26s      Tl„. 

'-".. '«=3.  .w,o  .av!  u.  x;t.;?''^?''^  "^''"^ -^^  ^'-^- -^^^^^^ 

These  rocks.  like  the  strean,,  n  Lr        „    ,„  °f   "T  ,'"  "^"'^  ••'  ''"-"   '— > 
"--.  '"-Rlu.  „p  the  riv...     The,       ,     ,  T/"""'       "•""  ""--  "f  «!-  san,e 

sod  or  devil.      It  has  suffered  the  ermST    "'  ""■•""'"^^  ^•"■"•''  "'-">- 

"sually  Manito  „,  ,,„,,,^,„  >     ' • '    ™'^"o'-  ">  s,,oHin,^  an.i  is  now 

Seosraphv,  ''"*''"'''    '""''f-'^^'.   but    Moniteau   in   Missouri 


m 


"f  :::v. 


n 


l6      SAND   AND  SPLIT   ROCK  CREEKS — SALINE  RIVER. 

Near  this  is  a  sand-bar  extending  several  miles,  which 
(/.  //'■  renders  navigation  difficult,  and  a  small  creek  called 
Sand  creek"  on  the  south,  where  we  stopped  for  dinner,  and 
gathered  wild  cresses  and  tongue-grass  from  the  sand-bar. 
The  rapidity  of  the  current,  added  to  our  having  !  ken  our 
mast,  prevented  our  going  more  than  I2j^  mi.  s.  The 
scouts  and  hunters,  whom  we  always  kept  out,  reported  that 
they  had  seen  fresh  tracks  of  Indians. 

/line  6f/t.  This  morning  we  left  our  camp,  which  was  on 
the  south  side,  opposite  a  large  island  in  the  middle  of  the 
river,  and  at  five  miles  reached  a  creek  on  the  north  side, 
about  20  yards  wide,  called  Split  Rock''  creek,  from  a 
fissure  in  the  point  of  a  neighboring  rock.  Three  miles 
beyond  this,  on  the  south,  is  Saline"  [or  Salt]  river;  it  is 
about  30  yards  wide,  and  has  its  name  from  the  number 
of  salt-licks  and  springs,  which  render  its  water  brackish. 
The  river  is  very  rapid  and  the  banks  falling  in.  After 
leaving  Saline  river,  we  passed  one  large  island  and  several 

''  Sand  creek  is  not  easily  identified.  It  should  be  about  168  miles  up  the 
river,  nearly  opposite  a  considerable  island  which  appears  on  the  Commission 
map.  The  wild  cresses  and  the  tongue-grass  are  the  same  (for  I  find  that 
Clark  writes  "creases  or  tung-grass  ")  and  are  a  species  of  L/pidium,  tongue- 
grass  being  another  name  of  pepper-grass,  which  latter  is  applied  to  all  the 
numerous  species-  of  these  cruciferous  plants,  but  especially  to  L.  sativum. 
Two  of  the  species  which  occur  along  the  Missouri  are  L.  rudctale  and  Z. 
virj^inianitm. 

^'So  lettered  on  Lewis' map  ;  on  Clark's,  laid  dowr,  but  unlettered;  to  be 
found  on  most  maps,  next  below  (Big)  Manitou  river,  usually  by  its  earlier 
French  name.  Roche  percee  or  Rocher  perce,  but  v;iiiously  misspelled  or  un 
accented  (as  for  example  Roche  a  Pierce  and  a  Pierce  of  Long's  text,  1823). 
This  stream  runs  south  through  Boone  Co. ,  west  of  llie  county  seat  Columbia, 
and  empties  just  above  Providence.  Nearly  opposite  its  mouth  is  the  forked 
rivulet  called  Splice  creek  by  Long.  1823.  but  not  noticed  in  our  text. 

''  Now  Little  Saline,  running  chiefly  in  Cooper  Co.,  but  emptying  in  Moniteau 
Co.,  according  to  G.  L.  O.  map  of  1876.  Name  Saine  creek  in  Gass,  ed.  1811, 
by  misprint.  .Salt  R.  lette.edon  Lewis'  and  on  Clark's  maps,  and  on  I'ike's,  18 10. 
Little  Saline  of  Long's  text,  1823,  but  not  laid  down  on  his  map.  Mr.  A.  J. 
Hill's  MS.  river-chart  remarks  that  it  is  apparently  the  R.  a  la  Rargueof  Kenau- 
dii^re,  1723.  It  is  not  to  be  confounded  with  another  Salt  or  Saline  river,  a 
little  higher  up,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Missouri.  The  large  island  noted  in 
the  te.xt  is  plainly  shown  on  the  Mo.  R,  Commission  map. 


niG   MANITOU    AND   GOOD    WOMAN   CREEKS. 


17 


lUed 
,  and 
i-bar. 
n  our 
The 
1  that 

/as  on 
of  the 
I  side, 
;rom  a 
:  miles 
•;   it  is 
lumber 
rackish. 
After 
several 

>iles  up  the 

find  that 
tm.  toiigue- 
to  all  the 
.  sativum. 
/,'  and  L. 

tered-,  to  be 
its  earlier 
jelled  or  un 
Itext,  1823V 
[t  Columbia, 
the  lorked 

a. 

[in  Moniteau 
L,  ed.  181 1. 
Ivike's,  1810. 
Mr.  A.  J- 
L,e  of  Kenau- 
Lline  river,  a 
Lnd  noted  in 


smaller  ones,  having  made  14  miles.  The  water  rose  a  foot 
last  night. 

June  p/i.  We  passed  at  ^y^  miles,  Big  Manitou"  creek, 
near  which  is  a  limestone  rock  inlaid  with  flint  of  various 
colors,  and  embellished,  or  at  least  covered,  with  uncouth 
paintings  of  animals  and  inscriptions.  We  landed  to  ex- 
amine it,  but  found  the  place  occupied  by  a  nest  of  rattle- 
snakes, of  which  we  killed  three.  We  also  examined  some 
licks  and  springs  of  salt  water,  two  or  three  miles  up  this 
river.  We  then  proceeded  by  some  small  willow-islands, 
and  camped  at  the  mouth  of  [Big]  Good  Woman"  river  on 
the  north.  It  is  about  35  yards  wide,  and  said  to  be  navi- 
gable for  boats  several  Ic^igues.  The  hunters,  who  had 
hitherto  given  us  only  deer,  brought  in  this  evening  three 
bears  \^Urstts  aiiicricaiiiis\  and  had  seen  some  indications 
of  bufTalo.     We  had  come  14  miles. 

June  S//i.  We  saw  several  small  willow-islands,  and  a 
creek"  on  the  south,  near  which  are  a  number  of  deer-licks  ; 
at  nine  miles' distance  we  came  to  Mine  river."     This  river, 

""  Which  Gass  naturally  calls  the  river  of  the  Big  Devil,  p.  16  ;  lettered  sim- 
ply Manitou  R.  on  Lewis'  map,  but  G.  Manitou  R.  on  Clark's  ;  R.  grand  Man- 
ithou  of  Perrin  du  Lac,  181)5  i  ManitoD  of  Rrackcnridge,  1814  ;  Rig  Manito  of 
Long,  1823  ;  Grand  Maniteau  of  Nicollet,  1843  I  "ow  oommonly  Moniteau 
creek,  in  Howard  Co.,  emptying  at  town  of  kocheport,  at  or  near  junction  of 
Roone  Co.  The  rock  noted  in  the  text  lias  the  same  name  as  the  river.  The 
te.\t  does  not  notice  a  rivulet,  just  above  the  river,  anil  on  the  same  side,  which 
Long  (1823)  called  Little  Saline  river,  and  which  is  on  the  Commission  map  as 
Salt  creek.  Long  also  names  a  Big  Manito  island  near  here  ;  and  a  large  island 
appears  on  the  map  just  cited,  190  miles  up  the  river.  This  is  the  L  de  Mani- 
ihoj  of  I'errin  tlu  Lac. 

^'  In  Howard  Co.,  emptying  below  the  t<iwn  of  Franklin  ;  the  R,  Ronne  Femme 
of  Rerrin  du  Lac,  1805,  and  still  better  known  by  its  French  name  than  by  the 
English  equivalent.  No  qualifying  term  appears  in  L.  and  C.'s  text  or  map  to 
distinguish  this  river  from  another  of  same  name  lower  down  the  river  (see 
above):  but  Gass  inserts  "  Rij;."  Note  that  Mrr  is  the  river  marked  R.  aux 
Sioux  by  n'.\nville,  1752  ;  but  is  neither  of  those  now  known  as  the  Sioux  rivers. 

"'"  Apparently  that  river  found  on  some  maps  by  the  name  of  Loupe's  branch 

M  Near  the  mouth  of  which  is  Rooneville  or  Hoonville,  county  fown  of  Cooper 
Co.;  across  the  Missouri  is  Franklin,  Howard  Co.  The  first  large  branch  of 
this  river  is  called  Salt  Fork.     An  early  name  of  Mine  river  was  K.  au  Vermil- 


r, 


l8    MINE   RIVER— ARROW   ROCK,    PRAIRIE,  AND   CREEK. 

(/>.  12)  which  falls  into  the  Missouri  from  the  south,  is  said  to 
be  navigable  for  boats  80  or  90  miles,  and  is  about  70  yards 
wide  at  its  mouth.  It  forks  about  five  or  six  leagues  from 
the  Missouri,  and  at  the  point  of  junction  are  some  very 
rich  salt  springs;  the  west  branch,  in  particular,  is  so  much 
impregnated,  that  for  20  miles  the  water  is  not  palatable. 
Several  branches  of  the  Manitou  and  Good  Woman  are 
equally  tinctured.  The  French  report,  also,  that  lead  ore 
has  been  found  on  different  parts  of  the  river.  We  made 
several  excursions  near  the  river  through  the  low  rich 
country  on  its  banks,  and  nfter  dinner  went  on  to  the 
island  of  Mills,  where  we  camped.  We  met  with  a  party 
of  three  hunters  from  the  Sioux  river  ;  they  had  been  out 
for  twelve  months,  and  collected  about  $900  worth  of  pel- 
tries and  furs.     We  ascended  this  river  twelve  miles. 

/inti'  g//i.  We  set  out  early,  and  reached  a  cliff  called 
the  Arrow  Rock,"  near  to  which  is  a  prairie  called  the 
Prairie  of  Arrows,  and  Arrow  creek,  a  small  stream  about 
eight  yards  wide,  whose  source  is  in  the  adjoining  prairies 
on  the  south.  At  this  cliff  the  Missou.'  is  confined  within 
a  bed  of  200  yards  ;  and  about  four  miles  to  the  southeast 
is  a  large  lick  and  salt  spring  of  great  strength.  About  three 
miles  further  is  Blackbird  [now  Richland]  creek  on  the  north 
side,  opposite  which  's  an  island  and  a  prairie  inclosing  a 


Ion  of  D'Anville,  1752  ;  but  it  had  been  called  R.  h  la  Mine  by  Renaudiere. 
172?.  This  name  has  varied  to  I. amine  occisionally.  In  1819,  when  Lonfj 
passed,  Booneville  had  eight  houses.  The  earliest  settlement  in  this  vicinity 
was  Poone's  Lick,  about  four  rniles  from  Franklin,  givinj;  name  to  the  surround- 
ingcountry.  Clark'smapof  4  marks  the  site  of  "  Boon's  Salt  Works."  An 
establishment  of  this  kind  was  full  blast  at  the  time  of  Long's  visit  ;  Brack- 
enridge,  writing  of  iSn,  names  one  Braxton  Cooper  in  charge  of  salt  works 
then,  and  says  that  the  settlement,  though  only  a  year  old,  consisted  of  75  fami- 
lies. Dr.  Baldwin,  botanist  of  Long's  expedition,  died  at  Franklin,  August 
31st,  l8if), 

*"  Present  name  of  the  prominent  landuwrk  on  the  south  side  of  the  river, 
translating  Pierre  A  tlechc  of  the  French  (D'Anville,  1752).  .Arrow  Rock  is 
also  the  present  name  of  a  town  on  the  same  side  of  the  river,  in  Saline  Co, 
Across  the  river,  and  a  little  higher  up,  is  the  town  of  Lisbon,  Howard  Co. 
The  rock  was  go  called  from  being  resorted  to  by  Indians  for  stone  arrow  he.ads. 


THE   TWO   CHARATON   RIVERS. 


19 


small  lake.  Five  miles  beyond  this  we  camped  on  the 
south  side,  after  making,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  13  miles. 
The  land  on  the  north  is  a  high  rich  plain.  On  the  south  it 
is  also  even,  of  a  good  quality,  and  rising  from  50  to  200  feet. 
/ttne  \otlt.  We  passed  Deer"  creek  ;  and,  at  the  distance 
of  five  miles,  the  two  rivers  called  by  the  French  the  two 
Ciiaratons,"  a  corruption  of  Thieraton  \read  Charretin], 
the  first  of  which  is  30,  the  second  70  yards  wide.  They 
enter  the  Missouri  together  ;  both  are  navigable  for  boats. 
The  country  through  which  they  pass  is  broken,  rich,  and 
thickly  covered  with  timber.     The  Ayauway"  nation,  (/>./?) 


;naudiere, 
Ihen  Long 
Is  vicinity 
surround- 
■ks."     A" 
it  ;  Brack- 
;alt  works 
,{75  fami- 
|n,  August 

the  river. 
■v  Kock  is 
Isaline  Co. 
oward  Co. 
low-heads. 


*'  Deer-lick  creek  of  Gass,  p.  16  ;  present  name,  Hurricane  creek.  Just  above 
this,  on  the  same  side  of  the  Missouri  (right  hand,  going  up),  a  certain  Bear 
creek  comes  in,  on  Owen's  map,  1848  ;  and  the  same  is  indicated  on  various 
other  maps.     This  seems  to  have  escaped  the  attention  of  Lewis  and  Clark. 

*''  This  word  has  never  been  satisfactorily  explained  :  certainly  the  explana- 
tion attempted  in  the  text  is  itself  a  misprint  or  other  blunder.  It  might  be 
either  Charleton  or  Charlatan  :  the  former  is  given  on  p.  387  of  the  nrig. 
cd.;  the  latter  would  match  Gasconade,  as  applied  to  another  river.  The 
various  forms  in  which  we  find  it  add  to  our  perplexity.  Thus,  it  is  the 
Chtraton  of  Collot  in  1796  ;  Charleton  is  Perrin  du  I.ac's  style,  1805  ;  Lewis' 
map  of  1806  has  Charliton  ;  Clark's,  1814,  prints  the  two  Charatons  ;  Bracken- 
ridije,  1814,  gives  Chareton  and  Chariton,  p.  2it  and  p.  265  ;  Long,  1823, 
Charaton  ;  Nicollet's  map,  1843,  Chariton;  some  of  the  spurious  Lewis  and 
Clark  books  make  it  Chareturn  ;  Gass  strikes  out  for  himself  with  the  two  Char- 
lottes, p.  16;  Pike.  1810,  is  satisfied  with  two  Charlatans  ;  Lapie,  1821,  has  but 
one  river,  which  he  calls  K.  des  deux  Charlatans.  I  only  discovered  what 
it  ought  to  be  on  consulting  L.  and  C.'s  MSS.  (See  note  under  date  of  June 
24th.)  The  name  has  now  settled  into  the  form  Chariton  for  both  rivers, 
for  the  county,  and  for  a  town.  The  two  rivers  were  formerly  distinguished 
in  French  as  Grand  and  Petit  Charletons  (so  Perrin  du  Lac);  they  have  also  been 
called  Great  and  Little,  and  West  and  East.  They  are  probably  the  pair  of  rivers 
called  les  rivieres  aux  Racines  by  D'Anville,  1752,  though  his  map  runs  them 
separately  into  the  Missouri.  These  rivers  reach  the  Missouri  through  Chariton 
Co.,  with  Howard  Co.  adjoining  at  the  confluence.  The  Chicago  ami  Alton 
R  R.  crosses  the  Missouri  a  little  below  this  point,  and  both  Charitons  are 
crossed  above  by  the  W'abash,  St.  Louis  and  Pacific  K.  R.  The  streams  are 
straightish,  north-south,  parallel  with  many  branches  of  the  Grand  river,  which 
cnmes  into  the  Missouri  a  little  higher  up.  This  is  the  main  drainage  into 
tlie  Missouri  of  the  rise  to  1,000  feet  to  the  west  and  north.  Last  of  the 
Charitons  the  drainage  is  into  the  Mississippi. 

■"  This   -.vord,   lacking  any   true  consonants,  is  fluidic,  and  varies  much   in 


\h 


;  — '^— ''C'-'J,.^^--'^  jiJft^: 


■  *  Mia 


■f<  ■%i..C' 


20 


CHICOT   OK   STUMl'   ISLAND. 


consisting  of  300  men,  have  a  village  near  its  head  waters, 
on  the  river  De  Moines/'  Further  on  we  passed  a  large 
island  called  Chicot''  or  Stump  island,  and  camped  on  the 
south,  after  making  ten  miles. 

A  head  wind  forced  us  to  remain  there  all  the  next  day, 
[June  nth],  during  which  we  dried  the  meat  wj  had  killed, 
and  examined  the  surrounding  country,  which  consists  of 
good  land,  well  watered,  and  supplied  with  timber.  The 
prairies  also  differ  from  those  eastward  of  the  Mississippi, 
inasmuch  as  the  latter  are  generally  without  any  covering 
except    grass,   whilst    the    former  abound  with   hazel-nuts 

orthography.  Lewis  and  Clark  spell  it  several  ways,  as  Ayaway,  Ayoway, 
Ayahwa,  Ayawai,  etc.  Other  forms  are  Ayovai,  Ayauvai,  Aiaoaez  (plural). 
Another  series  is  lawai,  laway,  etc.  In  Lewis'  Statistical  View  it  is  marked  for 
accent  ah  -e-o-war  .  From  the  liquid  state  the  word  has  solidified  into  our 
familiar  Iowa.  These  Indians  on  their  separation  were  called  Pa-ho-ja  (gray 
snow) ;  they  are  also  among  the  many  different  Indians  who  have  been  styled 
Pierced-noses.  The  lowas  were  a  tribe  of  the  great  Siouan  family,  descendants 
of  the  old  Missouris.  In  Lewis  and  Clark's  time  they  had  one  village,  40  leagues 
up  the  Des  Moines  river,  with  a  population  of  800,  of  which  200  were  warriors. 
Lewis  represents  them  as  turbulent  savages,  who  were  at  war  with  many  of 
their  neighbors,  even  of  their  own  kindred,  and  frequently  abused  their  traders 
and  committed  depredations  on  persons  navigating  the  Missouri,  though  they 
were  at  peace  with  the  Ottoes  and  Missouris,  some  of  the  Siou.x  and  Yankton 
tribes,  and  all  nations  east  of  the  Mississippi.  They  traded  in  furs  and  peltries. 
(London  ed.,  1807,  p.  22.)  The  remnants  of  the  lowas  are  165  on  the  Clreat 
Xemaha  Reservation  in  Kansas,  102  on  the  Sac  and  Fo.'c  Reservation  in  Okla- 
homa, five  at  school  at  Lawrence,  Kas.,  and  one  at  Carlisle,  I'a. — 273. 

"  The  name  of  the  river  Des  Moines  is  obviously  French,  but  it  does  not 
mean  "of  the  monks."  It  is  an  old  word  of  Algonkin  origin,  used  by  Illinois 
Indians  met  by  Marquette  and  Joliet.  These  Indians  called  their  place  Moin- 
gona,  Moingonan,  or  Mouingouinas — a  word  found  in  some  form  on  very  old 
maps  (and  down  to  1S43  at  least).  Later  the  French  clipped  the  word  to  Moin, 
calling  the  people  les  Moins,  and  their  river  la  riviere  des  Moins.  Finally,  the 
name  became  associated  with  the  Trappist  monks  ('is  moines  de  la  Trappe)  ; 
and  the  river  of  the  Moins  became  la  riviere  des  Moines,  by  a  spurious  etymol- 
ogy. Traces  of  this  history  of  the  name  survive  in  its  various  spellings,  as  Des 
Moins,  De  Moin.  De  Moyen,  Demoin,  Demoir,  even  "  Demon,"  etc.  The 
Sioux  name  of  the  river  is  Inyanshasha-watpa.  literally  "  stone-red-red-river,"  or 
as  we  should  say  Redstone  river.  Compare  Nicollet's  Report,  1843,  p.  22  and 
map,  where  Moingonan  is  used. 

"  Plainly  shown  on  the  Mo.  R.  Commission  map,  at  the  330th  mile  up  the 
river.     Chicot  is  French,  meaning  stump.     Present  name,  Harrison  island. 


m 


PLUM    CREEK — MR.   DURION. 


21 


[Corj'/its  amcricana},  grapes  [probably  I'Uis  cordifolia\  and 
other  fruits,  among  which  is  the  Osage  plum  \_Maclura 
aurantiaca  /]  of  a  superior  size  and  quality. 

June  \2th.  In  the  morning  we  passed  through  difificult 
places  in  the  river,  and  reached  Plum"'  creek  on  the  south 
side.  At  one  o'clock  we  met  two  rafts  loaded,  the  one  with 
furs,  the  other  with  the  tallow  of  buffalo;  they  were  from 
the  Sioux  nation,  and  on  their  way  to  St.  Louis  ;  but  we 
were  fortunate  enough  to  engagt^  one  of  the  men,  a  Mr. 
Durion,"  who  had  lived  with  that  nation  more  than  20  years 
and  was  high  in  their  confidence,  to  accompany  us  thither. 
We  made  nine  miles. 

June  \ith.     We  passed,  at  between  four  and  five  miles,  a 


*'  No  trace  of  this  on  either  Lewis'  or  Clark's  map.  But  there  are  two  or  three 
small  creeks  on  the  south  side,  in  Saline  Co.,  between  Stump  island  and  Howl- 
ing Green  Bend  (L.  and  C.'s  Round  I5end  below).  One  of  these  is  marked 
Edmundson's  creek  on  Owen's  map  of  184S  ;  one  is  now  called  Bear  creek  ; 
another,  Salt  creek.     I'lum  creek  is  probably  the  first  of  these. 

•"  "  Got  from  them  an  old  Frenchman,  who  could  speak  the  languages  of  the 
Indians  up  the  Missouri,  and  who  agreed  to  go  with  us  as  an  interpreter."  Gass, 
p.  17.  Irving  spells  the  name  Dorion,  and  thus  sketches  the  old  fellow:  "Old 
Dorion  was  one  of  those  French  Creoles,  descendants  of  the  ancient  Canadian 
stock,  who  abound  on  the  western  frontier,  and  amalgamate  or  cohabit  with  the 
savages.  He  had  sojourned  among  various  tribes,  and  perhaps  left  progeny 
among  them  all  ;  but  his  regular,  or  habitual  wife,  was  a  Sioux  squ.iw.  By  her 
he  had  a  hopeful  brood  of  half-breed  sons,  of  whom  Pierre  was  one.  The 
domestic  affairs  of  old  Dorion  were  conducted  on  the  true  Indian  plan.  Father 
and  son  would  occasionally  get  drunk  together,  and  then  the  cabin  was  the 
scene  of  ruffian  brawl  and  fighting,  in  the  course  of  which  the  old  Frenchman 
was  ap,'  to  get  soundly  belabored  by  his  mongrel  offspring.  In  a  furious  scuflle 
of  this  kind  one  of  the  sons  got  the  old  man  upon  the  ground,  and  was  on  the 
point  of  sc.-ilping  him.  'Hold!  niy  son,'  cried  the  old  fellow,  in  imploring 
accents,  '  you  are  too  brave,  too  honorable  to  scalp  your  father.'  This  appeal 
touched  the  French  side  of  the  half-breed's  heart,  so  he  suffered  the  old  man  to 
wear  his  scalp  unharmed."     Astoria,  ed.  1S61,  p.  141. 

Pierre  appears  to  have  been  a  sulky  brute,  who  beat  his  wife  and  made  him- 
self as  much  of  a  nuisance  as  possible  in  every  way.  His  wife  was  encumbered 
with  two  children  already,  and  had  another^;?  route.  Thisscjuaw  proved  herself 
a  heroine ;  the  parallel  between  her  and  Sacajawea,  of  whom  Lewis  and  Clark 
tell  us  much  later  on,  is  quite  close.  Her  mongrel  spouse  was  murdered  by 
Indians  shortly  after  the  overland  expedition  of  Hunt  and  his  party  to  Astoria, 
Ibid.,  p.  493. 


' 


»2 


ROUND   BEND  CREEKS. 


•»7 1   , 


bend  of  the  river,  and  two  creeks  on  the  north,  called  the 
Round  Bend'"  creeks.  Between  these  two  creeks  is  the 
prairie,  in  which  once  stood  the  ancient  village  of  the 
Missouris.*"  Of  this  village  there  remains  no  vestige,  nor  is 
there  anything  to  recall  this  great  and  numerous  nation, 
except  a  feeble  remnant  of  about  30  families.  They  were 
driven  from  their  original  seats  by  the  invasions  of  the 
Sauks  [Sacs]  and  other  Indians  from  the  Mississippi,  vi'ho 
destroyed  at  this  village  200  of  them  in  one  contest,  and 

*'  Marked  by  .1  mere  scratch  on  Lewis'  map,  not  lettered  ;  no  trace  on 
Clark's.  Larger  and  later  maps  usually  show  these  creeks,  or  one  forked  creek, 
at  the  head  of  the  bend,  in  Chariton  Co.  One  modern  name  is  Palmer's  creek. 
The  Round  Bend  of  the  Missouri  itself  is  now  known  as  Bowling  Green  Bend. 

■"  The  Missouri  or  Missouria  Indians  (JVi-ii  -t'a-tci)  were  one  of  the  principal 
tribes  of  the  great  Siouan  linguistic  stock  or  family.  In  Bowell's  classification 
they  are  enumerated  as  the  tenth  of  eighteen  Sioux  triLes.  Lewis'  Statistical 
View  (1806)  spells  their  native  name  Xeii.'  -dar-cha.  Some  of  the  many  forms 
of  this  name  are  Xeotacha  and  .W;;!,''^"'-  The  word  is  said  to  mean  "  those  who 
settle  at  the  mouth  of  a  river,  "  /.  c,  the  Missouri.  They  later  moved  up  to  where 
they  were  found  by  the  French  in  about  1700.  They  lived  in  one  village 
with  the  Otoes,  mustering  a  total  of  300  persons,  with  80  warriors.  They 
traded  with  the  merchants  of  St.  Louis,  and  their  commerce  was  substantially 
the  same  as  that  of  the  Otoes.  They  were  at  peace  with  the  Pawnees  proper, 
Sacs,  and  Fo.xes.  but  warred  with  the  Omahas.  Poncas,  Sioux,  Osages,  Kansas, 
and  Pawnee  Loups.  At  that  d.ite  they  were  already  the  mere  remn.int  of  a 
numerous  nation  inhabiting  the  Missouri  when  first  known  to  the  French. 
Their  ancient  and  principal  village  was  on  an  extensive  and  fertile  prairie  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  river,  just  below  the  mouth  of  Grand  River.  The  smallpox, 
and  war  with  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,  reduced  them  to  mere  dependence  on  the 
Otoes,  with  whom  they  resided  and  hunted  in  Lewis'  time  ;  though  they  were 
viewed  by  the  Otoes  .as  inferiors  and  sometimes  maltreated  ;  but  they  were  the 
real  owners  of  the  country  for  a  considerable  distance  above  their  village,  thence 
to  the  month  of  the  Osage,  and  on  to  the  .Mississippi.  In  1752  D'Anville  called 
the  Missouri  the  Pekitanoui,  or  Riviere  des  Missouris. 

The  Sacs  and  Foxes  were  in  Lewis  and  Clark's  time  already  so  firmly  con- 
solidated as  to  be  regarded  as  one  nation,  and  they  have  been  usually  since 
spoken  of  together.  Tliey  are  members  of  the  great  Algonquian  family.  The 
name  of  the  former  tribe  is  rendered  by  Lewis  O  saukee,  whence  Saukee,  Sauk, 
then  Sac  or  Sacque.  They  had  two  villages  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi, 
"140  leagues "  above  St.  Louis,  and  counted  2,000  population,  with  500 
warriors.  They  warred  with  the  Osages,  Cliippew.iys,  and  Sioux,  but  were  at 
peace  with  other  tribes.  The  name  of  the  Foxes  is  rendered  Ijv  Lewis 
Ot-targar-me  ;    its   French  style   was   Reynard,  clipped   to   Renard   and  other 


MISSOURI   INDIANS. 


sought  refuge  near  the  Little  Osage,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  river.  The  encroachment  of  the  same  enemies  forced, 
about  30  years  since,  both  these  nations  from  the  banks  of 
the  Missouri.  A  few  retired  with  the  Osage,  and  the 
remainder  found  an  asylum  on  the  Platte  river,  among  the 
Ottoes,'"  who  are  themselves  declining.  Oppo-  {p.  i^)  site 
the  plain  there  was  an  island  and  a  French  fort,  but  there 
is  now  no  appearance  of  either,  the  successive  inundations 
having  probably  washed  them  away,  as  the  willow-island, 

forms.  They  numbered  1,200,  with  300  warriors,  and  had  one  village 
near  the  Sacs.  Of  the  two  tribes  together  Lewis  remarks  in  1805  :  "  Thty 
speak  the  same  language.  They  formerly  resided  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  still  claim  the  land  on  that  side  of  the  river  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Oisconsin  [Wisconsin]  to  the  Illinois  river,  and  eastward  toward  Lake 
Michigan,  but  to  what  particular  boundary  I  am  not  informed  ;  they  also 
claim,  by  conquest,  the  whole  of  the  country  belonging  to  the  ancient 
Missouris,  which  forms  one  of  the  mo?t  valuable  portions  of  Louisiana  \i.  <•. ,  of 
trans-Mississippian  regions  in  the  U.  S.  of  1805],  but  what  proportion  of  this 
territory  they  are  willing  to  assign  to  the  Ayouways  [lowas],  who  also  claim  .-i 
part  of  it,  I  do  not  know,  as  they  are  at  war  with  the  Sioux  who  live  N. 
and  N.  W.  of  them,  except  the  Yankton-ahnah.  Their  boundaries  in  that 
quarter  are  also  undefined.  Their  trade  would  become  much  more  valuable 
if  peace  were  established  between  them  and  the  nations  west  of  the  Missouri 
with  whom  they  are  at  war.  Their  population  has  remained  nearly 
the  same  for  many  years.  They  raise  an  abundance  of  corn,  beans,  and 
melons.  They  sometimes  hunt  in  the  country  west  of  them,  toward  the 
Missouri,  but  their  principal  hunting  is  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Oisconsin  to  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois  river.  These  people 
are  extremely  friendly  to  the  whites,  and  seldom  injure  their  traders  :  but  they 
are  the  most  implacable  enemies  of  ihe  Indian  nations  with  whom  they  are  at 
war.  To  them  is  justly  attributed  the  almost  entire  destruction  of  the 
Missouris,  the  Illinois,  Cahokias,  Kaskaskias,  and  I'iorias."  (London  ed., 
1807,  p.  23.)  The  Sacs  .-ind  Foxes  now  number  f)8r  ;  there  are  515  at  their 
Agency  in  Indian  Terr.,  3S1  at  their  .\gency  in  Iowa,  77  at  the  I'ottawottomi 
and  Grand  N'emalia  .Agency  in  Kansas,  and  eight  at  the  Lawrence,  Carlisle, 
and  Hampton  schools. 

'"The  Otos,  Otoes,  Ottos  or  Ottoes,  were  Indians  whose  native  name  Lewis 
renders  W'ad-dokc-taii-tAh  in  his  Statistical  View  of  1S06,  and  Powell  spells  Wa-to- 
ijta-ta  in  l8or.  Other  forms  are  Wahtohtana,  Wahtotata,  Wadotan,  etc.,  said 
to  have  arisen  in  a  circumstance  which  occurred  on  their  separation  from  the 
Missouris,  when  their  chief  abduc'ed  a  squaw  of  the  l.-itter  nation.  The  French 
used  to  call  them  Othouez,  etc.  Tiioir  single  vilKige  was  shared  by  the  Missouris. 
They  numbered  500,  with  1 20  warriors,  and  resided  on  the  south  side  of  the  Platte, 


1 


H 


GRAND  RIVER. 


which  is  in  the  situation  described  by  Du  Pratz,"  is  small 
and  of  recent  formation.  Five  miles  from  this  place  is  the 
mouth  of  Grand  river,"  where  we  camped.  This  river  fol. 
lows  a  course  nearly  south,  or  southeast,  and  is  between  80 
and  100  yards  wide  where  it  enters  the  Missouri,  near  a 
delightful  and  rich  plain.  A  raccoon  [Proijon  /ofor],  a 
bear  [i'rsus  anwruanus],  and  some  deer  [^Cariacus  virginu 
anus]  were  obtained  to-day. 

/low  14///.  We  proceeded  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning. 
The  current  was  so  rapid,  and  the  banks  cii  the  north  were 
falling  in  so  constantly,  that  we  were  obliged  to  approach 


15  leagues  from  its  mouth.  They  traded  with  the  merchants  of  St.  Louis,  and 
made  war  and  were  at  peace  with  tiie  same  tribes  as  the  Missouris.  Lewis 
remarks  :  "  'I'hey  have  no  idea  of  the  exclusive  possession  of  any  country,  nor  do 
they  assign  themselves  any  limits  I  do  not  believe  that  they  would  object  to 
the  introduction  of  any  well-disposed  Indians  ;  they  treat  the  traders  with  respect 
and  hospitality,  generally.  In  their  occupations  of  hunting  and  cultivation,  they 
are  same  with  the  Kansas  and  Osages.  They  hunt  on  the  Saline  and  Nimmehaw 
[Xeinaha]  rivers,  and  west  of  them  in  the  plains.  The  country  in  which  they 
hunt  lies  well  ;  it  is  extremely  fertile  and  well  watered  ;  that  part  of  it  which 
borders  on  the  Nimmehaw  and  Missouri  possesses  a  good  portion  of  timber. 
Population  rather  increasing.  They  have  always  resided  near  the  place  where 
their  village  is  situated,  and  are  the  descendants  of  the  Missouris." 

There  were  lately  35S  Otoes  and  Missouris  together  in  the  Indian  Territory. 

"  Le  Page  Du  Prat/,  Hist,  de  la  Louisiane,  etc.,  orig.  ed.  3  vols.,  12  mo., 
Paris,  1758  ;  English  trans.,  1763,  1774,  etc.  Lewis  and  Clark  are  clearly  mis- 
taken in  quoting  Du  Pratz  for  the  situation  of  a  large  island  and  French  fort 
anywhere  along  here.  Du  Pratz  says:  "There  was  a  French  Fort  for  some 
time  on  an  island  a  few  leagues  in  length  over  against  the  Missouris  ;  the  French 
settled  in  this  fort  at  the  east  point,  and  called  it  Fort  Orleans."  We  have  also 
"Fort  D'Orleans  abandonne"  marked  on  D'Anville's  map,  pub.  1752,  across 
the  Missouri  from  his  Petits  Osages  et  Missouris.  This  locality  is  certainly  at 
the  large  island  which  the  Ex|)cdition  will  pass  June  i6th,  above  Malta  liend, 
ago  miles  up  river  by  the  Commission  map. 

'''  Present  name  :  to  be  distinguished  from  Grand  River  in  Dakota,  greatly 
higher  up  the  Missouri.  It  is  the  first  river  of  any  size  above  the  Charitons, 
and  by  far  the  largest  of  any  thence  to  the  Kansas.  At  its  confluence  with  the 
Missouri,  where  it  separates  Chariton  from  Carroll  Co.,  is  Prunswick,  in  the 
latter  county.  Its  mouth  is  crossed  by  the  W.  St.  L.  and  C.  K.  R.,  and  a 
railroad  follows  it  up  past  Chillicothe,  continuing  nearly  in  a  straight  line  to 
Council  Pluffs  and  Omaha.  Its  name  holds  over  from  la  riviere  Grande  of  the 
old  French  writers,  as  Renaudiere,  1723 


SNAKE   liLUFFS  AND  CKEEK. 


25 


the  sand-bars  on  the  south.  These  were  moving  continually, 
and  formed  tlio  worst  passage  we  had  seen,  which  we  sur- 
mounted  with  much  difficulty.  We  met  a  trading  raft  from 
the  Pawnee  nation  on  tlie  Platte,  and  attempted  unsuccess- 
fully to  engage  one  of  their  party  to  return  with  us.  At 
the  distance  of  eight  miles,  we  came  to  some  high  cliffs, 
called  Snake"  bluffs,  from  the  number  of  that  animal  in  the 
neighborhood;  and  immediately  above  these  bluffs  is  Snake 
creek,  about  18  yards  wide,  on  which  we  camped.  One  of 
our  hunters,  a  half-Indian,  brought  us  an  account  of  iiis 
having  to-day  passed  a  small  lake,  near  which  a  number  of 
deer  were  feeding,  and  in  the  pond  he  heard  a  snake  mak- 
ing a  guttural  noise  like  a  turkey.  He  fired  liis  gun,  but 
the  noise  became  louder.  He  adds  that  he  has  heard  the 
Indians  mention  this  species  of  snake,  and  this  story  is 
confirmed  by  a  Frenchman  of  our  party." 

June  \^th.  The  river  being  very  high,  the  sand-bars  were 
so  rolling  and  numerous,  and  the  current  was  so  strong, 
that  we  were  unable  to  stem  it  even  with  oars  added  to  our 
sails.     This  obliged  us  to  go  nearer  the  banks,  which  were 


"This  name  may  be  traced  to  Perrin  du  Lac,  1805,  who  speaks  of  a  bluff 
above  la  riviere  Grande,  and  marks  on  his  map  "  Wachanto  ou  endroit  de 
serpens."  Snake  creek  is  lettered  on  Lewis'  map,  1806,  on  the  north  side  ;  it  is 
traced  but  not  named  on  Clark's,  1814.  The  present  name  of  a  creek  on  the 
south  near  here  is  Miami  ;  and  a  prominent  point  above,  on  the  north,  is  White 
Kock.  The  stretch  of  river  today  is  between  Saline  and  Carroll  Cos.,  and  from 
258  to  263  miles  up  the  Missouri.     See  next  note  below. 

".•\  snake  story,  told  by  an  Indian  and  confirmed  by  a  Frenchman,  may  be 
taken  for  what  it  is  worth.  Gass  omits  the  story.  However  this  may  be,  cer- 
tainly some  superstition  or  tradition  concerning  serpents  has  given  name  to 
Snake  creek — the  considerable  stream  in  Carroll  Co.  now  known  as  VVakenda 
creek  (the  Wyaconda  river  of  Nicollet.  1843,  whose  nami!  is  the  same  word  as 
Perrin  du  Lac's  Wachanto).  The  first  element  of  this  word  is  the  Indian 
W'akou  (spelled  in  a  dozen  ways  or  more),  meaning  "  medicine' — that  is,  .iny- 
thing  an  Indian  does  not  understand.  Various  maps  consulted  differ  much  in 
locating  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  which  has  apparently  changed  its  position  by 
several  miles,  through  a  change  in  the  bed  of  the  river.  Late  maps  bring  it 
much  nearer  the  mouth  of  Grand  river  than  the  older  ones  do.  It  may  have 
once  been  above  White  Kock.  The  county  town  of  Carrollton  is  on  a  branch 
of  this  river. 


:yK=si 


26 


VILLAGES  OF   LITTLE   OSACiES   AND   MISSOURIS. 


falling  in,  so  that  wc  could  not  make,  though  the  boat  was 
occasionally  towed,  more  than  14  miles.  We  passed  several 
islands,  and  one  creek  on  the  south  side,  and  camped  on  the 
north  op-  {/>.  ij)  posite  a  beautiful  plain,  which  extends  as 
far  back  as  the  Osage  river,  and  some  miles  up  the  Missouri. 
In  front  of  our  camp  are  the  remains  of  an  old  village  of  the 
Little  Osagcs,  situated  at  some  distance  from  the  river,  at 
the  foot  of  a  small  hill.  About  three  miles  above  them,  in 
view  of  our  camp,  is  the  situation  of  the  old  village  of  the 
Missouris  after  they  fled  from  the  Sauks  [Sacs]."  The 
inroads  of  the  same  tribe  compelled  the  Little  Osages  to 
retire  from  the  Missouri  a  few  years  ago,  and  establish 
themselves  near  the  Great  Osages.  The  river,  which  is 
here  about  one  mile  wide,  had  risen  in  the  morning,  but 
fell  toward  evening. 

jK/h'  xdtli.  Early  this  morning  we  joined  the  camp  of  our 
hunters,  who  had  provided  two  deer  and  two  bear,  and  then 
passing  an  island  and  a  prairie  on  the  north,  covered  with 
a  species  of  timothy,  made  our  way  through  bad  sand-bars 
and  a  swift  current,  to  a  camp  for  the  evening  on  the  north 
side,  at  ten  miles'  distance.  The  timber  which  we  examined 
to-day  was  not  sufficiently  strong  for  oars.  The  mosqui- 
toes'"  and  ticks  are  exceedingly  troublesome. 

June  x'jth.  We  set  out  early,  and  having  come  to  a  con- 
venient place  at  one  mile's  distance,  for  procuring  timber 
and  making  oars,  we  occupied  ourselves  in  that  way  on  this 
and  the  following  day  [June  18th].  The  country  on  the 
north  of  the  river  is  rich  and  covered  with  timber;  among 
which  we  procured  the  ash  for  oars.  At  two  miles  it 
changes  into  extensive  prairies,  and  at  seven  or  eight  miles* 
distance  becomes  higher  and  waving.     The  prairie  and  high 

"The  sites  of  both  these  Indian  tribes  (Little  Osages  and  Missouri^)  are 
plainly  marked  on  D'Anville's  map  of  1752,  and  also  on  Perrin  du  Lac's,  1805. 
The  location  is  very  near  the  present  Malta  Rend,  in  Saline  Co.,  and  a  little 
above  this  place  is  the  large  island  of  Du  Pratz,  where  was  old  Fort  Orleans, 
to  be  reached  tomorrow. 

'*  Spelled  throughout  the  work  either  musquisoes  or  musquctoes.  I  alter  to 
the  usual  orthography. 


INOIAN    CRf)SSIN(;  ri.ACK— TIUEK    CKEEK. 


V 


to 


lands  on  the  south  commence  more  immediately  on  the 
river;  the  whole  is  well  watered  and  provided  with  K-""'-'. 
such  as  deer,  elk,"  and  bear.  The  hunters  brought  in  "'  a 
fat  horse  which  was  probably  lost  by  some  war-party — this 
being  the  crossing-place"  for  the  Sauks  [SacsJ,  Ayau- 
ways  [lowas],  and  Sioux,  in  their  excursions  against  the 
Osages. 

June  \()th.  The  oars  being  finished,  we  proceeded  under 
a  gentle  breeze  by  two  large  and  some  smaller  islands. 
The  sand-bars  are  numerous  and  so  bad  that  at  one  place 
we  (/>.  i6)  were  forced  to  clear  away  the  driftwood  in  order  to 
pass;  the  water  too  was  so  rapid  that  we  were  under  the 
necessity  of  towing  the  boat  for  half  a  mile  round  a  point 
of  rocks  on  the  south  side.  We  passed  two  creeks  ;  one 
called  Tiger"  creek,  on  the  north,  25  yards  wide,  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  a  large  island  called  Panther  Island  ;  the  other, 
Tabo  creek,  on  the  south,  15  yards  wide.     Along  the  shores 

"  This  animal,  which  will  be  repeatedly  noticed  throughout  this  work,  is  iIk- 
wapiti,  Ccrviis  civuuUnns.  "Klk"  is  most  properly  the  name  of  a  Kuropoiin 
animal,  Al«s  machlis,  resembling  the  American  moose  ;  but  "  elk  "  has  been, 
since  Lewis  and  Clark,  the  almost  universal  name  of  the  wapiti. 

'"  A  bear  they  had  killed  and 

"  .Such  a  point  on  the  river  is  marked  on  Nicollet's  map  of  1843  as  the  Grand 
Pass — but  it  seems  to  be  a  little  lower  down  the  river,  and  to  have  been  passed 
by  Lewis  and  Clark  on  the  l6th.  South  of  the  northward  loop  of  the  river, 
and  west  of  Malta  Bend,  is  a  body  of  water  still  called  Grand  Pass  lake  on  some 
maps. 

'"  I  am  satisfied  of  an  error  here.  The  account  cannot  be  squared  with 
geography,  and  the  fact  that  Gass  gives  a  different  itinerary  for  the  19th  and 
2oth,  shows  a  bad  snag  here.  Gass  says  for  the  iqth  :  "  Passed  Tabo  creek  on 
the  south  side,  and  a  small  creek  on  the  north  ";  and  for  the  20lh  :  "  Passed 
Tiger  creek,  .\  large  creek  that  flows  in  from  the  north."  Now,  according  to 
General  Land  Ollicc  and  Missouri  River  Commission  maps,  which  agree  well, 
the  stretch  of  "  llYz  "  miles  m.ide  on  the  irjth,  which  separates  Carroll  from  Lafa- 
yette Co.,  shows  :  (l)  A  lar;.,e  island,  where  is  now  W'averly,  Lafayette  Co.,  300 
miles  up  river  ;  (2)  Another  large  island,  five  miles  further  ;  (3)  Little  Tabo 
creek  on  the  south,  and  close  to  it  liig  Tabo  creek  on  the  same  side,  with  Hover 
between  their  mouths,  and  some  small  islands  in  the  river,  all  these  points  about 
310  miles  up  ;  (4)  There  is  no  creek  on  the  north  large  enough  to  be  shown  on 
either  of  the  maps  cited  ;  (5)  The  "  Tiger  "  creek  of  both  Lewis' and  Clark's 
maps  is  a  sizable  stream,  but  beyond  any  of  the  points  noted  for  the  19th.     There- 


re 


28 


TANTIIER   ISLAND— SAUK    rKAIKIK. 


are  gooscbcnics  and  raspberries  in  great  abundance.  At 
the  distance  of  17 'i  miles  we  campeti  cm  tiie  sriitli,  near  a 
lake  about  two  miles  from  the  river  and  several  in  circum- 
ference, much  frequented  by  deer  and  ail  kinds  of  fowls. 
On  the  north  the  liliui  is  higher  and  better  calculated  for 
farms  than  tliat  on  the  south,  which  asreiuls  rnoie  gradu- 
ally, but  is  till  rich  and  pleasant.  The  mosquitoes  and 
other  animals  are  so  troublesome  that  mosquito  biers 
[sic — bars]  or  nets  were  distributed  to  the  party. 

The  next  morning  [June  20th],  wc  jiassed  a  large  [/.  c, 
I'anther]  islan.i,  opposite  which  oi.  the  north  is  (Tiger  creek 
and  I"  a  large  and  beautiful  prairie,  called  Sauk  i)rai:ie,  the 
land  being  fine  and  well  timbered  on  both  sides  the  river. 
I'elicans  [Pdtriih.i :  crytltrorliynclius\  were  seen  to-day.  We 
made  dy^  miles,  and  camped  at  the  lower  jjoint  of  a  small 
island,  along  the  north  side  of  which  we  proceeded  the  next 

fore  \Vf  must  ;  j;ree  with  (lass  that  1  ij;cr  crt-i'k  was  not  p.isscil  till  the  2otli,  ?\\'\ 
carr)  I'aiither  island  to  this  date;  we  must  suppose  (lass'  "  small  tretk  on  tlie 
nortii  "  to  be  little  I'abo  irtek,  on  tlie  ioiith,  not  noted  by  Lewis  and  Clark. 
Then  the  Itjth  is  all  plain  sailiiij^,  viz.,  first  lar^e  island  ( I  >over,  300  miles  up); 
second  larfjc  isLnd,  305  miles  u]  ,  lietwceii  whiih  two  islands  they  had  to  tow 
the  boat  around  a  bluff,  on  the  south  (r.ow  known  :is  Sheeps'-nose  ruck); 
mouths  of  both  'labo  creeks,  some  small  isl.inds,  and  j,.esent  town  of  Dover, 
310  miles  up  ;  then  ']i  miles  further  to  camp,  on  the  s  luth,  "  ne.ir  a  lake." 
This  fetches  out  exactly  :  for  a  lake,  or  lake  bed,  is  s.iown,  on  the  maps  cited,  at 
just  the  rifjlit  spot,  i.'ext  morning,  the  20th,  they  speedily  reach  their  "  'I'ijjer  " 
cieek,  now  called  Crooked  creek,  which  has  a  larj;e  island  still  at  or  near  its 
mouth. 

Tabo  or  Tabbo  (properly  I'.ibcau.  personal  name  of  a  ceilain  Can.idi.an  who 
was  hereabouts)  is  slill  the  name  of  'wo  creeks,  distin^uisheil  as  liijf  anil  Lit- 
tle, lyinjj  wholly  within  Lafayette  Co.  is'either  is  shown  on  Lewis'  map  ;  an 
unlettcre.l  trace  seems  to  indicate  one  of  them  on  ClT-k's  lor  Tij^cr  creek,  sec 
next  note. 

"  See  last  note.  This  is  Ty(jers  (reek  of  Lewis'  m.'.p.  and  Tyjjer  creek  of 
Clark's,  now  called  Crooked  creek  or  river,  in  K.iy  <  o.  L.  and  C.'s  name  sur- 
vived for  many  years  ;  thus,  we  lind  it  on  Nicollet's  map  of  1843,  with  Crooked 
creek  as  the  name  of  a  branch  of  this  stream.  Kichmond.  tlie  county  town  (jf 
Lay.  is  on  one  of  it  i  small  tributaries.  Ikit  it  had  lon^;  before  been  n.imed  l)y 
D'.Vnville  riviere  V.iseuse  (Muddy  riverl.  anil  is  so  niark^'d  on  his  m.i|(of  \-(''z. 
So  is  S.iuk  prairie  oilier  tliau  L.  .md  C  .  having  been  so  named  by  Lerrin  1  Hi 
Lac  in  French  form  in  iSu;. 


t.    . 


4 


ri,EAk-WATER   CREKKS. 


29 


cay.  .A;,.  „,,,  but  not  witliout  danger,  in  consequence  of 
the  sands  and  the  rapidity  of  the  water,  which  rose  three 
■nches  last  night,  liehind  another  island  come  in  from  the 
south  two  creeks,  called  Eau-beau"  or  Clenr-vvater  creeks. 
On  the  north  .s  a  very  remarkable  bend,  where  the  high 
•nu is  approach  the  river,  and  form  an  acute  angle  at  the 
head  of  a  large  island  produced  by  a  narrow  channel  through 
the  po.nt  of  the  bend.  We  passed  several  other  islands 
and  camped  at  7%  mile,  on  the  south. 

nic  uater.s  veryrap.d  and  crowded  with  concealed  timber. 
We  passed  two  large  islands  and   an  extensive  prairie  on 

he  sou  h  beg.nn.ng  with  a  rich  low  land,  and  rising  to  the 
</.  V  d.stance  of  70  or  80  feet  of  rolling  clear  country. 
The  thermometer  at   3  p.  m.  was  at  87-  F.     After  coming 

«l  tnt  «urk.  .,n.l   n  l,as.  g.ven  as    •  Du  Beau  .,r  Du  iiois."     In  the  t.xt  .l,ove 

the  ontfinai  misprint  was  "  Eau,  licau    or  Cle-.r  \v.,.„.  ••     i 

...akes  it  read  like  three  nanus  of  CZ  '      L       Wor^  r"/   *■"  ""'  '^T'' 

tla.k  M.S.  hasEuehe,.,  for  which  Hiddle  substituted  llui.ert  as  ibove  • 
.eu.,s  M.S.  shows  Euher.'s  and  Euehaux's.  Brackenrid^.e  prin  IbaV  Ali 
1  .:^  names  refer  ,o  some  person,  represented  as  a  Canad.'n    ,,.  L      /  A,,; 

^'::::t  \ '''''-  ^  """"'•  ^^  """-•■  - -"  -- -->-  s.v  e  • .  ii 

!•         1     .  -      .  .       '^-     u>i.rL      I IH  n.ii     looks  .IS  if  It  were  MiMnt   f,,r  ti,. 

I'renchchcnae,  "o;ikirrove  ")    Kin-,11,,  .i,„         i  "  «ere  meant  lor  the 

l.rcit  and  I.utle  Sniabar,  or  Snibar-a  nirmus  word    which  I  fike  to  1, 

n..  on,  cou-„y  seat  of  Lafayet.e,  the  fu,„  e  si,e  of  which  the  Lpedhio^      -.^ 
""  the  2oth,  just  320  ndk-s  up  the  .M,:,s,niM.  ' 


II 


n 


'f 


30 


FIRE-PRAIRIE   RIVER— SITE   OF   FORT   OSAGE. 


io>^  miles  we  camped  on  the  south,  opposite  a  large  creek, 
called  Fire-prairie"  river. 

June  2id.  The  wind  was  against  us  this  morning,  and 
became  so  violent  that  we  made  only  1)4  miles,  and  were 
obliged  to  lie-to  during  the  day  at  a  small  island.  This 
is  separated  from  the  northern  side  by  a  narrow  channel 
which  cannot  be  passed  by  boats,  being  choked  by  trees 
and  drifted  wood.  Directly  opposite,  on  the  south,  is  a 
high  commanding  position,  more  than  70  feet  above  high- 
water  mark,  and  overlooking  the  river,  which  is  here  of  bu' 
little  width.  This  spot  has  many  advantages  for  a  fort  and 
trading-house  with  the  Indians.*  The  river  fell  eight 
inches  last  night. 

*  Tlie  United  States  built,  in  September,  1808,  a  factory  and  a  fort  on  this 
spot,  which  is  very  convenient  for  trading  with  the  Osages,  Ayauways,  and 
Kansas.**     [Original  note.] 

*■*  Present  name  of  a  creek  on  the  south  side,  in  Jackson  Co.,  emptying  into  the 
Missouri  at  or  near  the  junction  of  Lafayetie  Co.,  or  shortened  usually  to  Fire 
creek.  "  So  called  from  the  circumstance  of  three  or  four  Indians  having  been 
burned  to  death  by  the  sudden  conflagration  of  the  dry  grass  in  the  meadows  at 
its  source,"  says  Long  (vol.  i.  p.  93  of  the  London  ed  ,  1823).  Hut  L.  and  C.'s 
creek  of  this  name  is  on  the  north,  as  per  text  and  Lewis'  map,  where  the  creek 
is  laid  down  and  lettered.  Gass  also  makes  camp  "on  the  south  side  opposite 
a  large  creek,  called  the  Fire-prairie,  and  which  is  60  yards  wide."  There  is  no 
stream  of  any  such  size  on  the  north  of  the  Missouri,  though  there  is  one  now 
called  Clear  creek,  or  Fishing  creek,  four  or  tive  miles  hiijher  up  the  Missouri  on 
the  north,  which  might  be  stretclied  to  answer  to  L.  and  C.'s  Fireprairie  creek. 
especLiUy  as  its  mouth  may  have  shifted  since  their  time.  Hut  to  do  so  would 
leave  the  modern  Fire  or  Prairie  creek  nameless  in  Lewis  and  Clark. 

'*  This  spot  is  called  Fort  Point  in  the  Summary  Statement  at  the  end  of  this 
work.  It  is  in  what  is  now  Jackson  Co.,  Mo.,  about  halfway  between  Lexing- 
ton and  Independence.  The  fort  of  course  is  not  named  in  the  L.  and  C.  MSS.. 
but  it  is  marked  "  Fort  Clark"  on  Clark's  map,  1814,  and  is  given  as  "  Fort 
Clark  (or  Osage)  "  in  Prackenridge's  Journal,  1814,  p.  205  (to  be  distinguished 
from  another  Fort  Clark,  at  the  Mandans,  in  N.  Dak  ).  Fort  Point  also  became 
known  as  Sibley,  the  name  of  the  present  town  of  Sibley,  at  or  near  the  same 
place.     In  1S19  it  was  the  e.\treme  frontier  settlement. 

Fort  Osage  was  long  a  notable  establishment.  In  the  summer  of  1S08  Gen- 
eral Clark  held  a  treaty  with  the  Osage  Indians,  having  been  escorted  to  their 
nation  by  a  troop  of  cavalry  under  Capt.  M.  Wherry  from  St  Charles,  and  the 
fort  was  built  at  once  thereafter.  It  was  commanded  in  1809  by  Capt  Eil  11. 
Clemson.  1st  U.  S.  Infantry. 


I 


t 


CHARATON   SCARTV. 


31 


ort 


1 


June  24th.  We  passed,  at  eight  miles'  distance,  Hay 
cabin"'  creek,  coming  In  from  the  south,  about  20  yards 
wide,  and  so  called  from  camps  of  straw  built  on  it.  To 
the  north  are  some  rocks  projecting  into  the  river,  and  a 
little  beyond  them  is  a  creek  on  the  same  side,  called 
Charaton  Scarty"" — that  is,  Charaton  like  the  Otter.  We 
halted,"'  after  making  wji  miles,  the  country  on  botli  sides 
being  fine  and  interspersed  with  prairies,  in  which  we  now 
see  numerou-i  herds  of  deer,  pasturing  in  the  plains  or  feed- 
ing on  the  young  willows  of  the  river. 

"  "  Passed  a  creek  on  the  south  side  called  Depie,"  Gass.  p.  19.  This 
"  Depie,"  elsewhere"  Depre"and  "  Dispre,''  is  meant  for  (i''/i\)y>r/i'.f  (of  Spirits). 
No  such  word  occurs  here  in  the  MS.  of  Clark,  who  writes  "  Hay  Cabbin  Creek," 
and  the  same  is  lettered  on  Lewis'  map,  180C.  It  is  now  the  Little  lUue  river, 
in  Jackson  Co.,  Mo. 

''"  See  note  at  date  of  June  loth.  Since  that  was  penned,  I  have  come  into 
possession  of  all  the  original  manuscripts  of  Lewis  and  Clark  which  Nicholas 
Kiddie  had  when  he  wrote  this  book,  and  several  other  field  note-books  which 
were  at  that  time  in  the  hands  of  President  Jefferson.  These  throw  new  light 
on  the  puzzling  word  "Charaton."  On  June  loth,  Clark  wrote:  "passed  the 
two  Rivers  of  Charletons  which  mouth  together"  ;  on  June  24th,  he  wrote: 
"  Sharreton  Carta,"  as  the  name  of  the  creek  now  in  question.  Lewis'  MSS. 
yield  us  "Charetton"  in  one  place  and  "Shariton"  in  another.  Now  when 
Diddle  struck  these  snags  he  upset,  and  wrote  a  letter  to  Clark  (now  before  me), 
dated  July  7th,  l>Io,  asking  :  "  What  is  the  real  name  &  spelling  of  the  stream 
called  Sharriton  Carta,  and  also  the  Two  Charletons  ?  Get  some  of  the  French- 
men at  St.  Louis  to  put  them  down  exactly  as  they  shuuld  be  printed.'  Chuk  s 
reply  I  never  saw  ;  the  upshot  as  above  printed  has  hitherto  defied  conjecture. 
But  the  meaning  is  now  clear.  For  "  Charaton  Scarty"  read  C/iarrr/iustVdr/i's, 
i.  e.,  two  creeks,  each  named  Charretin.  which  are  separated  or  divergent  in  their 
courses,  though  emptying  together  into  the  Missouri.  There  are  a  pair  of  creeks 
in  Clay  Co.,  Mo.,  which  exactly  answer  this  description,  and  are  in  just  the 
right  place.  Then  for  the  attempted  explanation,  "  like  the  Otter, "read  simply, 
"  like  the  othci"  i.  ■■.,  like  the  two  oilier  rivers  called  by  the  .same  name,  liaving 
one  mouth,  though  they  are  separated  (ijcartcs)  in  their  courses.  T.ic  word  Char- 
retin (also  Chartin)  will  be  found  in  any  good  French  dictionary.  It  is  a  deriva- 
tive of  Charrette.  which  we  have  seen  before  as  a  place-name  on  the  Missouri, 

"  Gass  notes  a  halt  at  noon  to-day,  in  order  as  he  says,  to  "  jirk  "  some 
meat  which  a  party  had  brought  in,  and  he  explains  that  "  jirk  "  is  meat  cut  in 
small  pieces  and  dried  in  the  sun.  I'lark  writes  "  jurk.  "  The  word  as  a  verb 
is  now  generally  spelled /«■>/■,  and  jerked  meat  is  known  .is  jerky.  It  has  noth- 
ing to  do  with  the  English  verb  of  the  same  form  (jeyk),  but  is  a  corruption  of 
a  Chilian  word,  fh,t>yui.  meaning  sun-dried  meat. 


1  11 


\     'I 


J 


\f  ' 


32 


LA   B^NITE  AND   BLUE-WATER  CREEKS. 


/um-  2^th.  A  thick  fog  detained  r.s  till  eight  o'clock, 
when  we  set  sail,  and  at  throe  miles  reached  a  bank  of  stone- 
coal  on  the  north,  which  appeared  to  be  very  abundant. 
Just  belovv  it  is  a  creek  called  after  the  bank  La  Charbon- 
niere.""  Four  miles  further,  on  the  southern  side,  comes  in  a 
small  creek,  called  La  Benite."'  The  prairies  here  approach 
the  river  and  contain  many  fruits,  such  as  plums,  raspber- 
ries, wild  apples,  and  nearer  the  river  vast  quantities  of  miil- 
ber-  (  />.  i8)  ries.  Our  camp  was  at  13  miles'  distance,  on  an 
island  to  the  north,  opposite  some  hills  higher  than  usual — 
almost  160  or  180  feet. 

June  26th.  At  one  mile  we  passed,  at  the  end  of  a  small 
island,  Blue-water'"  creek,  which  is  about  30  yards  wide  at 
its  entrance  from  the  south.*  Here  the  Missouri  is  con- 
fined within  a  narrow  bed,  and  the  current  still  more  so  by 
counter-curents  or  whirls  on  one  side  and  a  high  bank  on 
the  other.  We  passed  a  small  island  and  a  sand-bar,  where 
our  tow-rope  broke  twice,  and  we  rowed  around  with  great 
exertions.  We  saw  a  number  of  parroquets  \Coiiurus 
iaroliHCi!sis~\,  and  killed  some  deer.  After  9^  miles  we 
camped  at  the  upper  point  of  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas 
river." 


*  A  few  miles  up  Bine-water  creek  are  quarries  of  plaster  of  Paris  [gj'psum], 
since  worked  and  brought  down  to  St.  Louis.     [Original  note.] 

'''  Clark's  MS,  has  "  Chabonea,"  which  Biddle  erases  and  interlines  Charbcn. 
(See  note  at  May  i6th.)    This  is  now  Rush  creek,  Clay  Co.,  Mo. 

'^Called  "Labenile,"  in  Gass.  by  misprint;  in  the  original  MSS.  Benoit's 
and  Bcnnet's  ;  Benito's  found  also.  It  is  r  personal  name,  whether  Be'nite 
(blessed)  or  Benct  (silly) ;  one  of  this  name  was  a  factor  of  the  Missouri  Kur  Co., 
iSii.  Now  Mill  creek,  Tackson  Co.,  Mo,  The  fruits  mentioned  in  this  para- 
graph are  :  plurr.i,  probably  t'runns  americana  ;  raspberries,  Ruhtis  strigosus  ; 
wild  apples,  Pyrus  corouaria  ;  mulberries,  Morns  rtthra. 

■"This  is  Perrin  du  Lac's  R.  de  I'Eau  Bleue.  now  Big  Blue  river,  mouthing  in 
Jackson  Co,,  Mo.,  about  halfway  between  Independence  and  Kansas  City. 
Just  below  it,  on  the  same  side,  is  Rock  creek,  not  noticed  in  the  text — and 
yesterd.iy  the  Expedition  mi?sed  Shoal  cteek,  on  the  north,  in  Clay  Co. 

■"  The  Kansas,  with  its  very  numerous  tributaries,  waters  the  greater  part  of  the 
present  St.ite  of  the  same  name,  and  by  its  great  nor'hern  fork,  the  Republican 
liver,  waters  .also  a  southern  portion  of  Nebraska.  It  heads  in  prairie,  between 
sources  of  the  South  Platte  ;md  .\rkansaw  rivers,  in  the  State  of  Colorado.     At 


i-S 


THE   KANSAS   RIVER. 


J3 


Here  we  remained  two  days  [June  27th,  28th],  during  which 
we  made  the  necessary  observations,  recruited    the  party 
and  repaired  the  boat.     The  Kansas  river  takes  its  rise  in 
the  plains  between  tiie  Arkansaw  and  Platte  rivers,  and  pur- 
sues a  course  ge  icrally  east  till  its  junction  with  the  Mis 
sour.,  which  is  ii.  la.itude  38-  31'  13"  ;  here  it  is  340^^  yards 
wide  though  It  is  wider  a  short  distance  above  the  mouth 
1  he  Missouri  itself  is  about  500  yards  in  width  ;  the  point 
of  union  is  low  and  subject  to  inundations  for  250  yards  • 
tt  then  rises  a  little  above  high-water  mark,  and  continues 
so  as  far  back  as  the  hills.     On  the  south  of  the  Kansas  the 
hills  or  high  lands  come  within  ij^  miles  of  the  river-  on 
the  north  of  the  Missouri  they  do  not  approach  nearer  than 
several  miles  ;  but  on  all  sides  the  country  is  fine      The 
comparative  specific  gravities  of  the  two  rivers  are,  for  the 
Missouri  78°,  the  Kansas  72°-  the  waters  of  the  latter  have 
a  very  disagreeable  taste  ;  the  former  has  risen  during  yes- 
terday and  to-day  about  two  feet.     On  the  banks  of  the 
Kansas  reside  the  Indians  of  the  same  name,"  consisting  of 

ilr''  "n  rr"i""''  ''"•'  ^"'^  ''='"^^=  ^'^y-  ^^-  -^^^  Kansas  .sstiU 
somef  mes  c.->  led  the  Ka^v.  Some  early  French  forms  of  the  name  on  various 
maps  are  R.  des  Quans.  R.  Can.,  R.  des  Kancds,  R.  des  Padoucas  et  Kanse 
etc  all  denved  from  the  Indians  of  the  same  names.  The  Lewis  anu  . 
MSS.  spell  the  name  m  a  dozen  different  way..  (See  note  below.)  Up  to  this 
pomt  the  M.ssoun  river  has  pursued  its  tortuous  way  for  388  miles  throu..h 
M,ssour,  State,  on  the  whole  nearly  east-west.  But  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kans^a 
t  turns  northwesteriy,  and  thence  separates  the   northeast  corner  of  Kansas 

Srin  r"  TH  \r  ^'""  '^°""'"  """'^'"^  ^^"^  Leavenworth,  Atchison    "d 
Domphan.     The  .M.ssour,  counties  are  Platte,  Bu..:.anan,  Andrew,  and   Holt 
The  pnncpal  pouus  on  this  section  of  the  river  above  Wyandotte  and  Kansas 
city,   are  Leavenworth  and  Atchison,  Kas.,  and   St.  Joseph,  .Mo.     Some  diV 
tance  up  the  Kansas  nver  is  Topeka.     In  this  corner  of  Kansas  are  the  Indian 

tom,"  '"    "'    ^°^"-    '°""^'    '-'"^^^P""^'    -^    '''-^''-•" 

'•  As  already  stated,  the  name  is  spell.d  throughout  this  work  Kanzas 
wh.ch  umformly  alter  to  the  only  form  now  current,  Kansas.  In  books  and 
mapsot  the  period  ,t  varies  much-with  initial  .  or  ,,„  instead  of  /■  ,■  f.rst  vowd 
<r  or  .  ,•  without  final  .,  in  the  singular,  and  in  the  curious  double  plural  which 
the  word  early  acquired  ending  variously  in  ...,,-,  -...-,  -.v..  -se:,  -sais  etc  ■  in 
ad,ect,val  form  Canzan  or  Knnzan.  The  .  in  the  name  was  scarcely  n.^'sal- 
ized       Lew.s  renders  the  word   A',,,-'..,,  in  his   Statistical  View,  iSof,  ■   A',,-.,  is 


1! 


34 


KANSAS   INDIANS. 


two  villages,  one  at  about  20,  the  other  40  leagues  {p.  ig) 
from  its  mouth,  and  amounting  to  about  300  men.  They 
once  lived  24  leagues  higher  than  the  Kansas  [river],  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Missouri,  and  were  then  more  numerous  ; 
but  they  have  been  reduced  and  banished  by  the  Sauks  and 
Ayauways,  who  being  better  supplied  with  arms  have  an 
advantage  over  the  Kansas,  though  the  latter  are  not  less 
fierce  or  warlike  than  themselves.  This  nation  is  now 
hunting  on  the  plains  for  buffalo,"  which  our  hunters  have 
seen  for  the  first  time. 

from  the  French  rendering,  which  Lewis  prints  "  Kah,"  as  a  nickname.  The 
Kanza,  or  Kansa  (Ka"  ze)  Indians,  were  a  tribe  of  the  great  Siouan  family,  now 
enumerated  as  the  fifth  of  eit;hteen  such  tribes.  The  tribe  was  estimated 
in  Lewis'  day  at  a  total  of  1,300  ;  there  are  now  reported  19S  at  Osage  .\gercy, 
Indian  Terr.,  with  15  at  school  in  Lawrence,  Kas.,  and  another  at  Cailisie,  I'a. 
They  traded  with  merchants  of  St.  Louis,  warred  with  all  their  neighbors,  but 
were  sometimes  at  peace  with  the  Otoes  and  Missouris,  with  whom  they  inter- 
married to  some  extent.  Lewis  represented  their  population  .as  rather  increasing 
in  1805.  "  At  present  they  are  dissolute,  lawless  banditti  ;  frequently  plunder 
their  traders  and  commit  depredations  on  persons  ascending  and  liesLcnding  the 
Missouri.  .  .  These  people,  as  well  as  the  Great  and  Little  Osages.  .ire  stationary 
at  their  villages  from  abo.it  the  15th  of  March  to  the  15th  of  May,  and  again 
from  the  1 5th  of  August  to  the  1 5th  of  October  :  the  balance  of  the  year  is  appro- 
priated to  hunting.  They  cultivate  :orn,  lVc."  Statistical  View,  Englished., 
1S07,  p.  II.     See  also  Say,  in  Long's  Exp.  K.  Mts.,  i?23.  I.,  chaps,  vi,  vii. 

'■'■  The  bison.  Bison  americanus ,  by  far  the  most  conspicuous  and  important 
animal  which  our  travelers  h.ive  to  notice  in  this  work,  where  it  will  be  re- 
peatedly mentioned  as  the  buffaloe  (which  I  alter  as  above  ;  the  L.  andC  ..iSS. 
usually  have  butfalow).  The  present  note  is  instruct;ve  in  connection  with  the 
geographical  distribution  of  the  species  in  1804. 

The  Observations,  etc.,  of  Wm.  Dunbar  and  Dr.  Hunter — the  fourth  of 
the  documents  accompanying  President  Jefferson's  Message  communicating  to 
Congress  Lewis  and  Clark's  discoveries — lirst  published  in  iSof),  contains  a 
curious  passage,  which  I  quote  from  p.  299  of  the  English  reprint,  i3<)7,  not 
having  the  original  before  me  as  I  write  : 

"  The  great  western  prairies,  besides  the  herds  of  wild  cattle,  (bison,  com- 
monly called  buffaloe)  are  also  stocked  with  vast  numbers  of  wild  goat  (not 
resembling  the  domestic  goat)  extremely  swift  footed.  As  the  tlcscription 
given  of  this  goat  is  not  perfect,  it  may  from  its  swiftness  prove  to  be  the 
antelope  or  it  possibly  may  be  a  goat  which  has  escaped  from  the  Spanish 
settlements  of  New  Mexico.  A  Canadian,  who  had  been  much  with  the 
Indians  to  the  westward,  speaks  of  a  «•■  .1  bearing  animal  larger  than  a  sheep, 
the  wool  much  mixed  with  hair,  which  he  had  seen  in  large  Hocks.     He  pretends 


LITTLE  SHALLOW   RIVER — DIAMOND   ISLAND. 


35 


June  2C)t/i.  We  set  out  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  having 
passed  a  sand-bar,  near  which  the  boat  was  almost  lost,  and 
a  large  island  on  the  north,  we  camped  at  7%  miles  on  the 
same  side  in  the  low  lands,  where  the  rushes  are  so  thick 
that  it  is  troublesome  to  walk  through  them. 

Early  the  next  morning,  [June]  30th,  we  reached,  at  five 
miles'  distance,  the  month  of  a  river  coming  in  from  the 
north,  and  called  by  the  French  Petite  Riviere  Platte,  or 
Little  Shallow"  river;  it  is  about  60  yards  wide  at  its 
mouth.  A  few  of  the  party  who  ascended  informed  us, 
that  the  lands  on  both  sides  are  good,  and  that  there  are 
several  falls  well  calculated  for  mills.  The  wind  was  from 
the  southwest,  and  the  weather  oppressively  warm,  the 
thermometer  standmg  at  96^  at  3  o'clock  p.  m.  One 
mile  beyond  this  is  a  small  creek  on  the  south, at  five  miles 
from  which  we  camped  on  the  same  side,  opposite  the 
lower  point  of  an  island  called  Diamond  island.  The  land 
on  the  north  between  the  Little  Shallov  river  and  the 
Missouri  is  not  good,  and  subject  to  overflow  ;  on  the 
south  it  is  higher  and  better  timbered. 

July   1st.     We   proceeded  along  the  north  side  of  Dia- 


M 


com- 

(not 

iption 

the 

inish 

ih   the 

sheep. 

Henils 


also  to  have  seen  a  unicorn,  the  single  horn  of  which,  he  says,  rises  out  of  the 
forehead  and  curls  back,  conveying  the  idea  of  the  fossil  cornu  ammonis," 

Here  in  a  few  lines  of  one  parajjraph  are  unequivocally  noticed  four  of 
the  most  remarkable  ruminants  of  Western  North  America,  i.  The  buf- 
falo, Bison  anii-nicinus.  2.  The  antelope  -iii/i/ccn/o-a  nmericjuj.  3.  The 
Rocky  Mountain  goat,  Haphccrus  monUmus.  possibly  the  actual  b.-isis  of  the 
"woolly  horse"  legends  of  the  West.  4.  The  Rocky  Mountain  sheep,  Ozis 
moitlana.  which,  though  not  a  "  unicorn,"  has  horns  quite  like  tiie  cornu 
Ammonis.  and  in  fact  is  a  near  relative  of  the  liarbary  slieeii.  Oiis  ai'imou 
(aoudad  or  bearded  argali,  Ainmctnij^us  trat;elitphus). 

The  earliest  mention  I  have  seen  of  the  antelope  in  English  print  occurs 
in  Lewis'  Statistical  View  of  the  Indians,  first  published  in  1806.  There,  in  his 
notice  of  the  trade  of  the  Maha  (Omaha)  Indians,  he  says  (p  16  of  the  English 
ed.  of  1807I  ;  "  Skins  of  the  Missouri  antelope,  called  cbri,  by  the  inhabitants 
of  the  Illinois."  This  word  i\>l'ri,  also  spelled  cabrit.  cabra.  cabrie.  and  cabree, 
is  the  Spanish  cabicn.  a  goat. 

■■*  IVesent  nam?.  Little  Platte.  PLatte  City  is  on  this  river,  in  cnintv  of  same 
name,  diagonally  opposite  Leavenworth  ;  at  its  mt.uth  is  Parkville.  The  posi- 
tion of  the  mouth  of  the  river  has  changed  much  since  1804. 


36 


ISLES   DES   PARCS   OR   FIELD    ISLANDS,    ETC. 


mond  "  island,  where  a  small  creek  [wej  called  Biscuit  creek 
empties.  At  l}4  miles  above  the  island  is  a  large  sand-bar 
in  the  middle  of  the  river,  beyond  which  we  stopped  to  re- 
fresh the  men,  who  suffered  very  much  from  the  heat.  Here 
we  observed  great  quantities  of  grapes  and  raspberries. 
Between  one  and  two  miles  further  are  three  islands,  [/>.Jo] 
and  a  creek  on  the  south  known  by  the  French  name  of 
Remore."  The  main  current,  which  is  now  on  the  south 
side  of  the  largest  of  the  three  islands,  ran  three  years 
[ago],  as  we  were  told,  on  the  north,  and  there  was  then  no 
appearance  of  the  two  smaller  islands.  At  4^  miles  we 
reached  the  lower  point  of  a  cluster  of  islands,  two  large 
and  two  small,  called  Isles  des  Pares  "  or  Field  Islands. 
Paccaun  [pecan,  Carya  olivccformis\  trees  were  this  day 
seen,  and  large  quantities  of  deer  and  turkeys  YMclcagris 
am€ricana\  on  the  banks.     We  had  advanced  12  miles. 

July  2d.  We  left  camp,  opposite  to  which  is  a  high 
and  beautiful  prairie  on  the  southern  side,  and  passed  up 
the  south  of  the  islands,  which  are  high  meadows,  and  a 
creek  on  the  north  called  Pare  [or  Park]  creek.  Here  for 
half  an  hour  the  river  became  covered  with  drift-wood, 
which  rendered  navigation  dangerous,  and  was  probably 
caused  by  the  giving  way  of  some  sand-bar,  which  had 
detained  the  wood.  After  making  five  miles  we  passed  a 
stream  on  the  south  called  Turkey  creek,  near  a  sand-bar, 
where  we  could  scarcely  stem  the  current  with  twenty  oars 
and  all  the  poles  we  had.  On  the  north  at  about  two  miles 
further  is  a  large  island  called  by  the  Indians  Wau-car-da- 


U 


"  Present  namp  :  so  called  from  its  shape.  Clark  wrote  Dimond.  Biscuit 
creek,  so  named  by  Clark,  is  uncertain  ;  I  find  it  on  no  map  examined  ;  possibly 
it  had  some  connection  with  a  former  course  of  the  Little  Platte. 

'*  "  Remore  "  is  certainly  a  mangled  word.  It  so  stands  very  plainly  in 
Clark's  MS.,  which  perhaps  gives  us  the  required  clew  ;  for  he  says  "  Remore 
(or  Tree  Frog),"  whence  I  conjecture  Grenouille  to  be  the  word  intended.  The 
stream  is  now  known  as  Nine  Mile  creek,  in  Wvandotte  Co.,  K.as. 

"''  Isles  des  Parques  in  Clark's  ^^S.;  Isles  des  Pares  or  Four  Islands  of  Long, 
1S23  ;  one  of  them  is  J.  de  Pare  of  I'crrin  du  Lac,  and  Park  Island  of  Nicollet, 
1843  ;  now  Spar  island.     The  situation  is  nearly  opposite  Leavenworth,  Kas. 


BEAR-MEDICINE  AND  COW  ISLANDS. 


37 


war-card-da,"  or  the  Bear-medicine  island.     Here  we  landed 

and  replaced  our  mast,  which  had  been  broken  three  days 

ago,   by    running  against    a  tree    overhanging  the  river. 

Thence  we  proceeded,  and  after  night  stopped  on  the  north 

side,  above  the  island,  having  come  iiy.  miles.     Opposite 

our  camp  is  a  valley,  in  which  was  situated  an  old  village 

of  the  Kansas,  between  two  high  points  of  land,  on  the  bank 

of  the  river.     About  a  mile  in  the  rear  of  the  village  was  a 

small  fort,  built  by  the  French  on  an  elevation.     There  are 

now  no  traces  of  the  village,  but  the  situation  of  the  fort 

may  be  recognized  by  some  remains  of  chimneys,  and  the 

general  outline  of  the  fortification,  as  well  as  by  the  fine 

spring  which  supplied  it  with  water.     The  party  who  were 

stationed  here  were  probably  cut  off  by  the  Indians,  as 

there  are  no  accounts  of  them. 

(/•  ^^)  July  id.  A  gentle  breeze  from  the  south  carried 
us  ii>/  miles  this  day,  past  two  islands,  one  a  small  willow- 
island,  the  other  l.-irge,  and  called  by  the  Frei.ch  Isle  des 
Vaclies,'^  or  Cow  island.     At  the  head  of  this  island,  on  the 

"  AV-one  word  with  five  hyphens.  At  first  sight  it  lool<s  like  a  misprint  meant 
for  two  forms  of  one  worj.  as  if '  VVau-carda  ..  war-card-da."  I  l,ave  been 
informed  that  probably  it  is  meant  for  Wakanda  ^akhM  ,  "(where)  Wakanda 
was  slain  -Wakanda  being  somebody  or  something  named  after  the  Thunder- 
god.  I  his  conjecture  is  borne  out  by  the  translation,  "  Bear  Medicine,"  show- 
ing that  there  was  some  mystery  or  superstition  about  the  place,  as  anything 
that  an  Indian  does  not  understand  is  "medicine."  But  Clark's  MS  '  gives 
occasion  for  a  different  reading.  His  words  are:  ■called  by  the  InLns 
V\au.car-ba  A\ar.cand-da  [two  words,  with  two  hyphens  apiece]  or  the  Bear 
Medesm   Island.       Here  the  second  word,  not   the   first,   is   "  Wakanda  "  or 

Medicine,  and  the  first  word  has  b  where  the  te.xt  prints  ./.  Lewis'  MS  has 
a  similar  word,  not  quite  the  same.  The  island  is  marked  Wasabe  Wakandige 
on  the  map  of  Xicollet,  who  puts  a  Kickapoo  village  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  Missouri  at  the  head  of  it.  The  island  is  now  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river,  just  above  the  present  site  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  and  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  IS  Kickapoo  City,  Kas.    Its  pre.rnt  „:,„„_■  i.  Ki,kaiH,o  i.land 

■ '  Isle  de  Vache,  in  the  singular,  in  Clark's  MS.  Cow  island  is  the  present 
or  a  recent  name,  for  which  Buffalo  island  used  to  be  sometimes  s.-,id.  when 
female  buffaloes  were  the  only  cows  in  the  country.  Long  gives  Isle  au  \  nclie 
and  notes  that  Ca,,tain  Martin's  detachment  wintered  here  in  i3i8-iq  Here 
Major  Long  held  his  council  with  the  Kansas,  Aug.  24th,  1819 


' 


!  ,  i 


n 


38       FOURTH  OF  JULY  AND   INDEPENDENCE   CREEKS. 


riii 


northern  sliorc,  is  a  large  pond  containing  beaver,""  and 
fowls  of  different  kinds.  After  passing  a  bad  sand-bar, 
we  stopped  on  the  soiitii  side  at  an  old  trading-house,  which 
is  now  deserted,  and  half  a  mile  beyond  it  camped  on  the 
south.  Tiie  land  is  fine  along  the  river,  and  for  some 
distance  back.  We  observed  black  walnut  {Jiiglaiis  nigra] 
and  oak,  among  the  timber;  also  honeysuckle  [Lcnicifd 
sp.]  and  the  buck's-eye  [buckeye,  probably  yEsculus  ghil>ra\ 
with  the  nuts  on  it. 

The  morning  of  the  4th  of  July  was  announced  by  t'  ■ 
discharge  of  our  gun.  At  one  mile  we  reached  the  mouth 
of  a  bayeau  [bayou]  or  creek,"  coming  from  a  large  lake  on 
the  north  side,  which  appears  as  if  it  had  once  been  the 
bed  of  the  river,  to  which  it  runs  parallel  for  several  miles. 
The  water  of  it  is  clear  and  supplied  by  a  small  creek  and 
several  springs,  and  the  number  of  goslings  which  we  saw 
on  it  induced  us  to  call  it  Gosling  lake.  It  is  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  and  seven  or  eight  miles  long. 
One  of  our  men  was  bitten  by  a  snake,  but  a  poultice  of 
bark  and  gunpowder  was  sufificient  to  cure  the  wound.  At 
\o%  miles  we  reached  a  creek  on  the  south,  about  12  yards 
wide,  coming  from  an  extensive  prairie  which  approached 
the  borders  of  the  river.  To  this  creek,  which  had  no 
name,  we  gave  that  of  Fourth  of  July  creek  ;  above  it  is  a 
high  mound,  where  three  Indian  paths  center,  and  from 
which  is  a  very  extensive  prospect.  After  15  miles'  sail  we 
came-to  on  the  north  a  little  above  a  creek  on  the  south 
side,  about  30  yards  wide,  which  we  called  Independence 
creek,  in  honor  of  the  day,  which  we  could  celebrate  only 
by  an  evening  gun,  and  an  additional  gill  of  whisky  to  the 
men."' 

^'^  Ciistoy  fiiiiad'iitsis.  which  becomes  extremely  abundant  higher  up  the  Mis- 
souri, and  on  most  of  its  headwaters,  in  and  near  the  Rocky  mountains. 

*•'  Called  Pond  creek  in  Gass,  p.  2o.  Nicollet  notes  an  old  cut-off  here  (1843). 
Owen's  map  marks  a  Sugar  creek  and  lake. 

"''  Gass  says  of  this  celebration  :  "  One  of  our  people  got  snake-bitten,  but  not 
seriously  ;  ''  he  discreetly  says  nothing  about  the  whisky.  This  man  was  Joseph 
Fields.     The  Expedition  to-day  passes  the  present  site  of  Atchison,  Kas.,  be- 


\ 


YELLOW-OCHRK   CREEK— REEVEV's    PRAIRIE.  jy 

/u/j  %th.  Wc  crossed  over  to  the  south  and  came  along 
the  bank-  of  an  extensive  and  beautiful  prairie,  inter-  (/.  22) 
spcrsed  with  copses  of  timber,  and  watered  by  Independ- 
ence creek.  On  this  bank  formerly  stood  the  second  vil- 
lage of  the  Kansas  ;  [judging]  from  the  remains  it  must 
have  been  once  a  large  town.  We  passed  several  bad  sand- 
bars, and  a  small  creek  to  the  south,  which  we  called  Vel- 
lovv-ochre''  creek,  from  a  bank  of  that  mineral  a  little 
above  it.  The  river  continues  to  fall.  On  the  shores 
are  great  quantities  of  summer  and  fall  grapes  ^Vitis 
icstivalis  :^\\A  V.  corili/o/ia\,hQxnG%,  and  wild  roses  [Rosa 
si-tigcm].  Deer  are  not  so  abundant  as  usual,  but  there 
are  numerous  tracks  of  elk  around  us.  We  camped  at 
ten  miles'  distance  on  the  south  side  under  a  high  bank, 
opposite  which  was  a  low  land  covered  with  tall  rushes! 
and  some  timber. 

July  6th.  We  set  sail,  and  at  one  mile  passed  a  sand-bar, 
three  miles  further  an  island,  and  a  prairie  to  the  north,  at 
the  distance  of  four  miles,  called  Reevey's"'  prairie,  after  a 
man  who  was  killed  there ;  at  which  place  the  river  is  con- 
fined  to  a  very  narrow  channel,  and  by  a  sand-bar  from  the 
south.  Four  miles  beyond  is  another  sand-bar  terminated 
by  a  small  willow-island,  and  forming  a  very  considerable 
bend  in  the  river  toward  the  north.  The  sand  of  the  bar  is 
light,  intermixed  with  small  pebbles  and  some  pit-coal.  The 
river  falls  slowly;  and,  owing  either  to  the  muddiness  of 
its  water,  or  the  extreme  heat  of  the  weather,  the  men 
perspire  profusely.     We  camped  on  the  south,  having  made 

tween  Fourth  of  July  .md  Independence  creeks.     The  latter  stream  is  still  so 
called.     It  empties  into  the  Missouri  in  .Atchison  Co. 

*^  "  Yellow-oaker  "  creek  of  Clark's  MS.  which  to-day  cites  De  Bourgmont, 
concerning  the  Kans.is  and  Missouris,  as  they  were  about  1724.  The  E.xpedi- 
tion  to-day  passes  the  Wasabi  Wachonda  of  I'errin  du  I.ac  (to  be  distinguished 
from  the  island  of  the  same  name  passed  July  2d,  see  note  there),  and  c.nmps  in 
Doniphan  Co.,  Kas.,  apparently  close  by  the  creek  marked  Yellow-ochre  on 
Nicollet's  map. 

"^  So  in  Clark's  MS. ;  elsewhere,  Revoes.  I  have  no  clew  to  the  correct  form 
of  the  name. 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-O03 


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40 


ST.    MICHAEL'S   PRAIRIE. 


f 


l 


12  miles.  The  bird  called  whip-poor-will  [Antrostomus 
voctferus]  sat  on  the  boat  for  some  time." 

/lily  Jth.  The  rapidity  of  the  water  obliged  us  to  draw 
the  boat  along  with  ropes.  At  6^  miles  we  came  to  a 
sand-bar,  at  a  point  opposite  a  fine  rich  prairie  on  the  north, 
called  St.  Michael's.  The  prairies  of  this  neighborhood 
have  the  appearance  of  distinct  farms,  divided  by  narrow 
strips  of  woodland,  which  follow  the  borders  of  the  small 
runs  leading  to  the  river.  Above  this,  about  a  mile,  is  a 
cliff  of  yellow  clay  on  the  north.  At  four  o'clock  we 
passed  a  narrow  part  of  the  channel,  where  the  water  is 
confined  within  a  bed  200  yards  wide,  the  current  running 
directly  against  the  southern  bank,  with  (/.  2j)  no  sand  on 
the  north  to  confine  it  or  break  its  force.  We  made  14  miles, 
and  halted  on  the  north,  after  which  we  had  a  violent  gust 
about  seven  o'clock.  One  of  the  hunters  saw  in  a  pond  to 
the  north  which  we  passed  yesterday  a  number  of  young 
swans.  We  saw  a  large  rat,"'  and  killed  a  wolf  [^Canis 
lupus  occideHtalis\.  Another  of  our  men  had  a  stroke  of 
the  sun  ;  he  was  bled,  and  took  a  preparation  of  niter,  which 
relieved  him  considerably. 

July  %th.     We  set  out  early,  and  soon  passed  a  small  creek 

"'Gass  here  names  a  "  Whippcrwill "  creek  from  this  circumstance,  p.  20, 
apparently  thnt  now  called  Peter's  creek,  in  Doniphan  Co.,  Kas.  The  Expe- 
dition appr9achei  St.  Joseph,  Mo.,  to  be  passed  to-morrow. 

"•  This^  is  the  wood-rat,  Ntotoma  JioriJami,  the  same  species  as  that  men- 
tioned 0:1  p.  II.  No  means  of  identifying;  the  species  is  here  given,  but  Gass 
furnishej  the  requisite  information.  He  says  at  this  date  (p.  20)  ;  "  Killed  a 
wolf  and  a  large  wood-rat  on  the  bank.  The  principal  difference  between  it 
and  the  commoner  rat  io,  its  having  hair  on  the  tail."  X.  thridana  is  now 
known  to  extend  up  the  Missouri  about  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Niobrara.  It 
was  unknown  to  science  when  thus  discovered  by  Lewis  and  Clark.  It  was 
rediscovered  by  Mr.  Thomas  Say,  of  Major  Long's  party,  on  the  Mississippi,  a 
little  below  St.  Louis,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Merameg  river,  June  7th,  i8ig.  It 
had  been  named  Min  floridanu!  by  Mr.  George  Ord  in  1818  (Bull.  Soc.  Philom. 
Phila.,  1818,  p.  181).  In  1825  Messrs.  Say  and  Ord  made  this  species  the  type 
of  their  new  genus  AVfi/cwij,  founded  in  the  Journ.  Acad.  Nat.  Sci.,  Phila..  IV. 
pt.  ii.  p.  346;  seep.  352.  jil.  x.  tigs.  1-4.  See  Long'i  Exped.  R.  Mts.,  I. 
1823,  p.  54  (p.  50  of  the  Knglish  3-vol.  ed.).  Another  species  of  the  same  genus, 
N.  fitti-na,  of  the  Kocky  mDuntains,  was  also  discovered  on  this  Expedition. 


ORDWAY  S  CREEK— NODAWA   RIVER. 


41 


on  the  north,  which  we  called  Ordway's  "  creek,  from  our 
sergeant  of  that  name,  who  had  been  sent  on  shore  with  the 
horses,  and  went  up  it.  On  the  same  side  are  three  small 
islands,  one  of  which  is  the  Little  Nodawa,  and  a  large 
island  called  the  Great  Nowada  [sic — read  Nodawa],  extend- 
ing more  than  five  miles,  and  containing  7,000  or  8,000 
acres  of  high  good  land,  rarely  overflowed  ;  this  is  one  of  the 
largest  islands  of  the  Missouri.  It  is  separated  from  the 
northern  shore  by  a  small  channel  from  45  to  80  yards  wide, 
up  which  we  passed,  and  found  near  the  western  extremity 
of  the  island  the  mouth  of  the  river  Nodawa."  This  river 
pursues  nearly  a  southern  course,  is  navigable  for  boats  to 
some  distance,  and  about  70  yards  wide  above  the  mouth, 
though  not  so  wide  immediately  there,  as  the  mud  from  the 
Missouri  contracts  its  channel.  At  12^  miles  we  camped 
on  the  north  side,  near  the  head  of  Nodawa  island,  opposite 
a  smaller  one  in  the  middle  of  the  river.  Five  of  the  men 
tt^-e  this  day  sick  with  violent  headaches.  The  rive,  con- 
tinjes  to  fall. 

y«/v  9///.  We  passed  the  island  opposite  which  we  last 
night  camped,  and  saw  near  the  head  of  it  a  creek  falling 
in  from  a  pond  on  the  north,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  of 
Pike  pond,  from  the  numbers  of  that  animal  which  some 
of  our  party  saw  from  the  shore.  The  wind  changed  at 
eight  o'clock  from  N.E.  to  S.W.,  and  brought  rain.  At 
six  miles  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Monter's"'  creek  on  the 

•''  Nf  entioned,  but  without  name,  in  Clark's  MS.  of  this  date.  There  is  a  creek 
in  Andrew  Co.,  Mo.,  which  answers  to  this  ;  but  its  present  name  I  do  not  know. 

*"■  Nadawa  in  Clark's  MS.,  accented  Na-da-wa  ;  Nodawa  on  his  map,  1814  ; 
Nodanaon  Lewis'  map,  1806  ;  Nodowa  on  Pike's,  1810  ;  Nodaway  in  Long's  text, 
1823  ;  Nadoway  in  Nicollet's  ;  Perrin  du  Lac  has  Madiwoay  ;  Lapie,  1821,  marks 
Nodaoua  on  his  map  ;  Bradbury  spells  Naduet.  The  word  is  Indian,  and  means 
some  kind  of  snake  ;  hence  the  river  has  sometimes  been  called  Snake  river. 
The  name  settled  into  Nod.iway  of  present  geographers.  There  is  also  a  Noda- 
way Co.,  and  a  town  of  the  same  name,  in  .Andrew  Co.,  Mo.  The  river  separates 
Holt  Co.  on  the  west  from  portions  of  Andrew  and  Nodaway  Co.  on  the  east ; 
higher  up  it  runs  entirely  in  the  latter,  but  quite  nt.ir  the  border  of  Atchison 
Co.     Its  sources  are  still  further  north. 

••  So  in  Clark's  MS.,  erased  and  Montain's  interlined  by  Diddle,  but  Men- 


42   WOLF   RIVER— SOLOMON'S  ISLAND— LITTLE  TARKIO. 

south;  and  t^o  miles  above,  a  few  cabins,  where  one  of  our 
party  had  camped  (/.  2^)  with  some  Frenchmen  about  two 
years  ago.  Further  on  we  passed  an  island  on  the  north, 
opposite  some  cliffs  on  the  southside,  near  which  Loup '"or 
Wolf  river  falls  into  the  Missouri.  This  river  is  about  60 
yards  wide,  heads  near  the  same  sources  as  the  Kansas," 
and  is  navigable  for  boats  at  some  distance  up.  At  14 
miles  we  camped  on  the  south  side. 

July  \oth.  We  proceeded  by  a  prairie  on  the  upper  side 
of  Wolf  river,  and  at  four  miles  passed  a  creek  1 5  yards 
wide,  on  the  south,  called  Pape's"  creek  after  a  Spaniard  of 
that  name,  who  killed  himself  there.  At  six  miles  we  dined 
on  an  island  called  by  the  French  Isle  de  Salomon,"  or 
Solomon's  island,  opposite  which  on  the  south  is  a  beautiful 
plain  covered  with  grass,  intermixed  with  wild  rye  and  a 
kind  of  wild  potato."  After  making  ten  miles  we  stopped 
for  the  night  on  the  northern  side,  opposite  a  cliff  of  yellow 
clay.  The  river  has  neither  risen  nor  fallen  to-day.  On 
the  north  the  low  land  is  very  extensive,  and  covered  with 
vines  ;  on  the  south,  the  hills  approach  nearer  the  river,  and 
back  of  them  commence  the  plains.  There  are  a  great 
many  goslings  along  the  banks. 

July  nth.  After  three  miles'  sailingwe  came  to  a  willow- 
island  on  the  north  side,  behind  which  enters  a  creek  called 
by  the  Indians  Tarkio."     Above  this  creek  on  the  north 

ter's  restored  in  the  text.  The  stream  is  now  Charleston  creek,  Doniphan 
Co.,  Kas. 

*■'  It  is  the  Riviere  du  Loup  of  early  French  maps,  now  called  Wolf  river,  run- 
ning in  northeastern  Kansas,  and  reaching  the  Missouri  through  Doniphan  Co. 
Its  mouth  is  520  miles  up  the  Missouri.     This  day's  camp  wns  just  beyond  it. 

"  Not  nearly — for  this  is  a  comparatively  short  stream. 

'•' Clark.wrote  "  a  creek  called  Pappie  " ;  now  Cedar  creek,  Doniphan  Co.,  Kas. 

"Clark's  MS.  has  "  Isld.  called  de  Salamin,"  which  Biddle  altered  as  above. 

'*  The  wild  rye  is  probably  Elymus  striatus.  The  wild  potato  is  questionably 
a  species  of  Solanum  ;  were  the  locality  further  northwest,  we  might  identify  it 
as  a  leguminous  plant,  the  pomme  de  terre  of  the  French,  Psoralm  tsculenta. 

"  "  Tarico"  in  Gass  :  now  Little  Tarkio  ;  a  sloughy  stream,  whose  waters 
have  leaked  into  the  Missouri  in  places  at  least  3o  miles  apart.  The  lowermost 
of  these  had  some  connection  with  the  Pike  pond  of  July  9th,  close  to  the  Noda- 
way river.     The  uppermost,  of  July  nth,  is  now  at  the  53otli  mile  point. 


BIG  NEMAHA   RIVER. 


43 


the  lowlands  are  subject  to  overflow,  and  further  back 
the  undergrowth,  of  vines  particularly,  is  so  abundant 
that  they  can  scarcely  be  passed.  Three  miles  from  the 
[Little]  Tarkio  we  camped  on  a  large  sand-island  on 
the  north,  immediately  opposite  the  [Big]  Nemahaw 
river, 

July  \2th.  We  remained  hTe  to-day  for  the  purpose  of 
refreshing  the  party,  and  n  xking  lunar  observations  The 
[Hig]  Nemahaw"  empties  into  the  Missouri  from  the  south, 
and  is  8o  yards  wide  at  the  confluence,  which  is  in  lat.  39° 
55'  56".  Captain  Clarke  ascended  it  in  the  perioque  \_sic\ 
about  two  miles,  to  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek  on  the  lower 
side.  On  going  ashore  he  found  on  the  level  plain  several 
artificial  mounds  or  graves,  and  on  the  adjoining  hills  others 
of  a  larger  size.  This  appearance  indicates  sufficiently  the 
former  population  of  this  country,  the  mounds  being  cer- 
tainly intended  as  tombs.  The  Indians  of  the  Missouri 
still  preserve  the  custom  of  interring  the  dead  on  high 
ground.  From  the  top  of  the  highest  mound  a  delightful 
prospect  presented  itself ;  the  level  and  extensive  meadows 
watered  by  the  Nemahaw,  and  enlivened  by  the  few  trees 
and  shrubs  skirting  the  borders  of  the  river  and  its  tributary 
streams;  the  low  land  of  the  Missouri  covered  with  undu- 
lating grass,  nearly  five  feet  high,  gradually  rising  to  a 
second  plain,  where  rich  weeds  and  flowers  are  interspersed 
with  copses  of  the  Osage  plum  ;  further  back  are  seen  small 

••  This  is  also  spelled  Nimehaw,  Nimmeha,  and  with  several  vowel  variations  ; 
on  Clark's  map,  by  mistake,  engraved  Gd.  Hemawhs.w  ;  on  Pike's  map, 
Nemshaw  ;  on  Long's,  Nemawhaw  ;  some  old  French  spellings  are  Nidmahaw 
and  Nimakas  ;  the  present  form  of  the  word  is  Nemaha.  There  is  a  county  of 
this  name  in  Nebraska.  At  this  point  the  Expedition  has  passed  that  section  of 
the  river  which  separates  the  northeast  corner  of  Kansas  from  Missouri,  and  is 
on  that  short  section  where  the  river  separates  the  southeast  corner  of  Nebraska 
from  Missouri — with  Holt  and  Atchison  Cos.,  Mo.,  on  the  right  ascending  the 
river,  and  Richardson  and  Nemaha  Cos.,  Neb.,  on  the  left  hantl  going  up. 
The  parallel  of  40'  N.  marks  off  these  two  sections  of  the  Missouri,  and  the 
Expedition  crossed  this  parallel  July  iith.  Hence  the  latitude  given  above  is 
several  minutes  out  of  the  way,  the  mouth  of  the  liig  Nemaha  being  north 
of  40°,  and  almost  540  miles  up  the  Missouri. 


iT^ 


■! 


. 


nil 


44 


BIG  TARKIO  RIVER— ST.  JOSEPH  S   ISLAND. 


groves  of  trees  ;  an  abundance  of  grapes ;  the  wild  cherry  " 
of  the  Missouri,  resembling  our  own,  but  larger,  and  grow- 
ing  on  a  small  bush ;  and  the  choke-cherry,  which  we 
observed  for  the  first  time.  Some  of  the  grapes  gathered 
to-day  are  nearly  ripe.  On  the  south  of  the  [Big]  Nema- 
haw,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  its  mouth,  is  a  cliff  of 
freestone,  on  wiiich  are  various  inscriptions  and  marks  made 
by  the  Indians.  The  sand-island  where  we  are  camped 
is  covered  with  the  two  species  of  willow,  broad-  and  nar- 
row-leaved. 

July  i^t/t.  We  proceeded  at  sunrise  with  a  fair  wind  from 
the  south,  and  at  two  miles  passed  the  mouth  of  a  small 
river  on  the  north,  called  BigTarkio."  A  channel  from  the 
bed  of  the  Missouri  once  ran  into  this  river,  and  formed  an 
island  called  St.  Joseph's ; "  but  the  channel  is  now  filled  up, 
and  the  island  is  added  to  the  northern  shore.  Further  on 
to  the  south  is  situated  an  extensive  plain,  covered  with  a 
grass  resembling  timothy  in  its  general  appearance,  except 
the  seed,  which  is  like  flaxseed,  and  also  a  number  of  grape- 
vines. At  twelve  miles  we  passed  an  island  on  the  north, 
above  which  is  a  large  sand-bar '""  covered  with  willows;  and 
at  20j4  miles  stopped  on  a  large  sand-bar  in  the  middle  of 
the  river,  opposite  a  high,  handsome  prairie  which  extends 
to  the  hills  four  or  five  miles  distant,  though  near  (/.  26) 
the  bank  the  land  is  low  and  subject  to  be  overflowed. 

"  This  is  probably  Prunus pumila.  The  choke-cherry  next  named  is  P.  lir- 
giniana.  The  willows  are  two  species  of  Salix,  but  uncertain  ;  that  called  the 
narrow-leaved  may  be  S.  lotigi folia. 

•*  Present  name ;  distinctively  Big  Tarkio  river,  to  discriminate  it  from  the 
Little  Tarkio,  which  latter  has  entered  the  Missouri  at  pwints  lower  down, 
one  of  them  near  vhe  mouth  of  the  Nodaway.  (See  note  ".  date  of  July  nth, 
and  recall  the  creek  mentioned  on  July  ()th,  as  falling  in  from  Pike  pond.) 
Both  the  Tarkios  run  in  Atchison  and  thence  through  Holt  Co.,  Mo. 

"  As  by  Perrin  du  Lac.  in  French  form.  Just  below  this,  j>t  the  540th  mile 
up  the  Missouri,  is  now  an  islaud.  This  is  marked  Antelope  island  on  Nicollet's 
map,  1843. 

'"*Now  an  island  which  shows  on  the  Mo.  R.  Comm.  map,  next  below  the 
560th  mile  point.  An  unnoticed  stream  passed  to-day,  on  the  south,  is  Win- 
nebago creek,  Richardson  Co.,  Neb. 


A  SUDDEN    SQUALL— NISHNAHBATONA   RIVER. 


45 


This  day  was  exceedingly  fine  and  pleasant,  a  storm  of  wind 
and  rain  from  the  N.N.E.,  last  night,  having  cooled  the  air. 
July  i/^th.  We  had  some  hard  showers  of  rain  before 
seven  o'clock,  when  we  set  out.  We  had  just  reached  the 
end  of  the  sand-island,  and  seen  the  opposite  banks  falling 
in,  and  so  lined  with  timber  that  we  could  not  approach  it 
without  danger,  when  a  sudden  squall  from  the  northeast 
struric  the  boat  on  the  starboard  qnarter,  and  would  have 
certainly  dashed  her  to  pieces  on  the  sand-island,  if  the 
party  had  not  leaped  into  the  river,  and  with  the  aid  of  the 
anchor  and  cable  kept  her  off.  The  waves  dashed  over 
lier  for  the  space  of  40  minutes ;  after  which,  the  river 
became  almost  instantaneously  calm  and  smooth.  The 
two  periogues  were  ahead,  in  a  situation  nearly  similar,  but 
fortunately  no  damage  was  done  to  the  boats  or  the  load- 
ing. The  wind  having  shifted  to  the  southeast,  we  came, 
at  the  distance  of  two  miles,  to  an  island  on  the  north, 
where  we  dined.  One  mile  above,  on  the  same  side  of  the 
river,  is  a  small  factory,  where  a  merchant ""  of  St.  Louis 
traded  with  the  Ottoes  and  Pawnees  two  years  ago.  Near 
this  is  an  extensive  lowland,  part  of  which  is  overflowed 
occasionally  ;  the  rest  is  rich  and  well  timbered.  The 
wind  again  changed  to  northwest  by  north.  At  7J^  miles, 
we  reached  the  lower  point  of  a  large  island,  on  the  north 
side.  A  small  distance  above  this  point  is  a  river  called 
by  the  Maha  [Omaha]  Indians  Nishnahbatoiia.""'  This  is 
a  considerable  creek,  nearly  as  large  as  Mine  river,  and 
runs  parallel  to  the  Missouri  the  greater  part  of  its  course, 
being   50  yards  wide  at  the  mouth.      In  the  prairies  or 


""  Clark's  MS.  says  "  Mr.  Bennet  of  St.  Louis."  There  was  a  William  Ben- 
net,  who  is  mentioned  in  Billon's  Annals,  p.  106,  but  is  not  identifiable  as  this 
person,  especially  as  there  were  several  persons  named  Benoit. 

'"  Elsewhere  in  the  te.xt  Neeshnabatona,  as  first  in  Clark's  MS.;  in  Class 
Wash-ba-to-nan,  p.  22  ;  Nishmahbatana  of  Pike's  map  ;  Nishnabotona  of 
Brackenridge ;  Nishnebottona  of  Long's  map;  Nishnabatona  of  Nicollet 
and  of  Lapie  ;  Nichinibatone,  of  Perrin  du  Lac  ;  Nichinanbatonais,  of  Collot's 
map.  The  modern  name  is  commonly  Nishnabotona  or  Nishnabotna.  This 
is  a  notable  side-stream  of  the    Missouri,  falling   in  through   Atchison  Co., 


J; 


f>r 


T 


rr 


I 


46 


LITTLE   NEMAHA   RIVER. 


glades  we  saw  wild  timothy,  lamb's-quarter,  cuckleberries,'" 
and,  on  the  edges  of  the  river,  summer  grapes,  plums,  and 
gooseberries.  We  also  saw  to-day,  for  the  first  time,  some 
elk,  at  which  some  of  the  party  shot,  but  at  too  great  a 
distance.  We  camped  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  a 
little  above  the  Nishnahbatona,  having  made  nine  miles. 
The  river  fell  a  little. 

KP'  27)  July  1 5///.  A  thick  fog  prevented  our  leaving  the 
camp  before  seven.  At  about  four  miles  we  reached  the 
extremity  of  the  large  island,'"  and  crossing  to  the  south, 
at  the  distance  of  7  miles,  arrived  at  the  Little  Nemaha  [in 
Nemaha  Co.,  Neb.],  a  small  river  from  the  south,  40  yards 
wide  a  little  above  its  mouth,  but  contracting,  as  do  almost 
all  the  waters  emptying  into  the  Missouri,  at  its  confluence. 
At  9^  miles,  we  camped  on  a  woody  point,  on  the  south. 
Along  the  southern  bank  is  a  rich  lowland  covered  with 
pea-vine  and  rich  weeds,  and  watered  by  small  streams  rising 
in  the  adjoining  prairies.  They  arc  rich,  and  th-jugh  with 
abundance  of  grass,  have  no  timber  except  what  grows 
near  the  water;  interspersed  through  both  are  grape-vines, 
plums  of  two  kinds,  two  species  of  wild  cherries,  hazel-nuts, 
and  gooseberries.  On  the  south  there  is  one  unbroken 
plain ;  on  the  north  the  river  is  skirted  with  some  timber, 
behind  which  the  plain  extends  four  or  five  miles  to  the 
hills,  which  seem  to  have  little  wood. 


Mo. ;  on  it  is  the  county  town  of  Rockport.  Across  the  Missouri  river  here 
is  Nemaha  Co. .  N'eb.,  with  Auburn  as  its  county  town.  Atchison  Co.  is  the 
extreme  northwest  corner  of  the  State  of  Missouri ;  over  the  .State  line  is 
Fremont  Co.,  la.;  and  through  the  southwest  corner  of  Iowa  is  most  of  tlie 
extent  of  the  Nishnabotona  and  its  tribut.-irie?. 

""This  looks  like  a  misprint  for  huckleberries  :  but  it  is  a  mistake  for  cockle- 
burs,  for  I  find  "  cuckle  burs"  in  Clark's  MS.  of  this  passage.  The  common 
cockle-bur  or  clot-bur  is  Xiintliium  strnmarium,  a  weedy  composite  plant  with 
close  spiny  Involucres.  The  lamb's-quarter  is  the  familiar  Chenopodium  alhum, 
a  succulent  weed  often  used  for  greens.  The  timothy,  frequently  mentioned  in 
our  text,  is  uncertain.     The  true  timothy  is  a  grass,  Phltum  pratense. 

"**An  island  answering  to  this  appears  at  the  570th  mile  point  of  the  Mo.  R. 
Comm.  map,  and  Gass  names  an  Elk  island  at  this  date.  This  is  the  Isle 
Acboven  of  Perrin  du  Lac,  and  Morgan's  island  of  Nicollet's  map. 


—  ■■" 


1 


I 


,  the 


the 


bkle- 


vith 


Id  in 


Isle 


FAIR  SUN  AND  BALD  ISLANDS— BALD-PATED  PRAIRIE.      47 

July  \6th.  We  continued  our  route  between  a  large 
island  opposite  last  night's  camp  and  an  extensive  prairie 
on  the  south.  About  six  miles,  we  came  to  another  large 
island,  called  Fairsun '"  island,  on  the  same  side;  above  which 
is  a  spot  where  about  20  acres  of  the  hill  have  fallen  into 
the  river.  Near  this  Is  a  cliff  of  sandstone  for  two  miles, 
which  is  much  frequented  by  birds.  At  this  place  the  river 
is  about  a  mile  wide,  but  not  deep ;  as  the  timber,  or  saw- 
yers,"" may  be  seen  scattered  across  the  whole  of  its  bottom. 
At  20  miles'  distance,  we  saw  on  the  south  an  island,  called 
by  the  French  L'Isle  Chance  {sic '"'],  or  Bald  island,  opposite 
a  large  prairie,  which  we  called  Bald-pated  prairie,  from 
a  ridge  of  naked  hills  which  bound  it,  running  parallel  with 
the  river  as  far  as  we  could  see,  at  from  three  to  six  miles' 
distance.  To  the  south  the  hills  touch  the  river.  We 
camped  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  this,  in  a  point  of  woods 
on  the  north  side.     The  river  continues  to  fall. 

{p.  2S)  July  17th.  We  remained  here  this  day,  ;n  order 
to  make  observations  and  correct  the  chronometer,  which 
ran  down  on  Sunday.  The  latitude  we  found  to  be  40°  27' 
5^V  north.  The  observation  of  the  time  proved  our  chro- 
nometer too  slow  by  6'  51  ^".  The  highlands  bear  from 
our  camp  N.  25°  W.,  up  the  river.  Captain  Lewis  rode  up 
the  country,  and  saw  the  Nishnahbatona,  ten  or  twelve 
miles  from  its  mouth,  at  a  place  not  more  than  300  yards 

""  5/1— one  word  ;  properly  Fair  Sun,  as  written  by  Clark,  being  from  the 
French  isle  i  Beau  Soleil ;  now  Sun  island,  lying  halfway  between  the  sSoth 
and  590th  mile  points. 

'"*  A  sawyer  is  a  snag  or  timber  so  fixed  in  the  water  that  it  oscillates  or  bobs 
up  and  down  under  the  varying  stress  of  the  current,  and  forms  a  special  danger 
to  navigation.     A  firmly  embedded  snag  is  called  a  planter. 

""  Misprint  for  F.  chauve  (bald).  Clark  wrote  a  word  now  blind,  having  been 
over-written  and  turned  into  Chauven's,  above  which  Biddle  interlined  Chauve 
clearly  ;  but  after  all  this  "  Chance  "  was  printed.  The  course  of  the  river  pur- 
sued by  the  Expedition  at  this  point  has  altered  greatly.  It  now  nowhere 
approaches  the  Nishnabotona  so  closely  as  the  text  of  July  17th  states.  In  the 
present  shorter  and  straighter  course  of  the  Missouri  along  here,  there  is  a  large 
island  beginning  at  the  590th  mile  point.  The  camp  of  July  i6th-i7th  is  in  the 
N.  W.  corner  of  Atchison  Co. ,  Mo. 


frf 


J 


48 


BALD   HILLS— OVEN   ISLANDS. 


^       M 


\r 


from  the  Missouri,  and  a  little  above  our  camp.  It  then 
passes  near  the  foot  of  the  Bald  Hills,  and  is  at  least  six 
feet  below  the  level  of  the  Missouri.  On  its  banks  are  oak, 
walnut,  and  mulberry.  The  common  current  of  the  Mis- 
souri, taken  with  the  log,  is  50  fathoms  in  40",  at  some 
places,  and  even  20". 

/it/y  iSt/i.  The  morning  was  fair,  and  a  gentle  wind, 
from  S.E.  by  S.,  carried  us  along  between  the  prairie  on 
the  north,  and  Bald  island  to  the  south ;  opposite  the 
middle  of  which  the  Nishnahbatona  approaches  the  nearest 
to  the  Missouri.  The  current  here  ran  50  fathoms  in  41*. 
At  1 3 '2  miles,  we  reached  an  island  on  the  north,  near  to 
which  tlie  banks  overflow  ;  while  on  the  south,  the  hills  pro- 
ject  over  the  river  and  form  high  cliffs.  At  one  point  a  part 
of  the  cliff,  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  about 
200  feet  in  height,  has  fallen  into  the  river.  It  is  composed 
chiefly  of  sandstone  intermixed  with  an  iron  ore  of  bad 
quality ;  near  the  bottom  is  a  soft  slatestone  with  pebbles. 
We  passed  several  bad  sand-bars  in  the  course  of  the  day, 
made  18  miles,  and  camped'"*  on  the  south,  opposite  the 
lower  point  of  the  Oven  islands.  The  country  around  is 
generally  divided  into  prairies,  with  little  timber,  except  on 
low  points,  islands,  and  near  creeks,  and  that  consisting  of 
Cottonwood,  mulberry,  elm,  and  sycamore. '"'  The  river  falls 
fast.  An  Indian  dog  came  to  the  bank;  he  appeared  to 
have  been  lost  and  was  nearly  starved ;  we  gave  him  some 
food,  but  he  would  not  follow  us. 

{p.3g)jHly  iqth.     The  Oven""  islands  are  small  and  two  in 

'"*  In  Otoe  Co.,  Neb.,  a  little  below  Nebraska  City.  This  day's  journey  car- 
ries the  Expedition  past  the  boundary  between  Missouri  and  Iowa,  where  they 
enter  upon  that  section  of  the  river  which  separates  Iowa  on  the  east  from 
Nebraska  on  the  west. 

'"•  These  trees,  named  in  that  order,  are  Populus  monili/era,  Mortis  rubra, 
Ulmus  americana,  and  Platanus  occidentalis.  The  last  is  the  button-wood  or 
Americin  plane-tree. 

""  Between  600  and  610  miles  up  river  were  several  islands,  sometimes  called 
Oven ;  {or  example,  Nicollet's  map  shows  two,  some  distance  apart,  called  Upper 
and  Lower.   At  the  6ioth  mile  point  the  Mo.  R.  Comm.  map  shows  two  abreast. 


TERRIEN'S  OVEN-— APPROACHING  THE   PLATTE. 


49 


to 


I  in 


car- 


bd  or 


tailed 

Ipper 
teast. 


number;  one  near  the  south  shore,  the  other  in  the  middle 
of  the  river.  Opposite  to  them  is  the  prairie  called  Ter- 
rien's  Oven,  from  a  trader  of  that  name.  At  4}4  miles,  we 
reached  some  high  cliffs  of  a  yellow  earth,  on  the  south, 
near  which  are  two  beautiful  runs  of  water,  rising  in  the 
adjacent  prairies,  one  of  them  with  a  deer-lick  about  200 
yards  from  its  mouth.  In  this  neighborhood  we  observed 
some  iron  ore  in  the  bank.  At  2}4  miles  above  the  runs, 
a  large  portion  of  the  hills,  for  nearly  three-quarters  of  a 
mile,  has  fallen  into  the  river.  We  camped  on  the  western 
extremity  of  an  island,'"  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  having 
made  lo^  miles.'"  The  river  falls  a  little.  The  sand-bars 
which  we  passed  to-day  are  more  numerous,  and  the  rolling 
sands  more  frequent  and  dangerous,  than  any  we  have  seen  ; 
these  obstacles  increasing  as  we  approach  the  Platte  river. 
The  Missouri  here  is  wider  also  than  below,  where  the 
timber  on  the  banks  resists  the  current ;  while  here  the 
prairies  which  approach  are  more  easily  washed  and  under- 
mined. The  hunters  have  brought  for  the  last  few  days  no 
quadruped  but  deer ;  great  quantities  of  young  geese  are 
seen  to-day.  One  of  the  hunters  brought  calamus,  which 
he  had  gathered  opposite  our  camp,  and  a  large  quantity  of 
sweet-flag.'" 

yw/y  20///.  There  was  a  heavy  dew  last  night,  and  this 
morning  was  foggy  and  cool.  We  passed  at  about  three 
miles'  distance  a  small  willow-island  to  the  north,  and  a  creek 
on  the  south,  about  25  yards  wide,  called  by  the  French 

one  large  and  the  other  small,  which  may  be  those  of  our  text,  but  are  certainly 
not  Nicollet's.  As  to  the  name  Terrien's  Oven,  I  suspect  a  snag.  Clark  wrote 
twice,  July  i8th  and  19th,  a  phrase  "  Four  le  tourtue,"  or  "  tourlii,"  or 
"  tourtre  "—the  last  word  a  little  blind  in  ending,  but  its  first  syllable  plain,  and 
a  large  capital  F  for  the  first  word.  Then  he  speaks  of  the  "  Baker's  (^ven 
Islands,"  and  Biddle  interlines  "  Raker's  0»en  "  at  the  entry  of  the  18th.  This 
does  not  agree  with  the  printed  text,  and  the  case  remains  obscure. 

'"  Called  Island  of  Willows  by  Gass,  p.  23. 

'"  A  little  above  the  present  site  of  Nebraska  City,  Neb.,  near  the  boundary 
between  Cass  and  Otoe  Cos.,  Neb. ;  on  the  other  hand  is  Fremont  Co.,  la. 

"•Probably  by  collating  different  journals,  Kiddle  introduces  calamus  and 
sweet-flag.     These  are  the  same  well-known  plant,  Atorus  (alamus. 


t 


w 


55? 


50 


l.'EAU   QUI   PLEURE,   OR   WEEPING  WATER. 


L'Eau  qui  Pleure,  or  the  Weeping  Water,'"  which  empties 
just  above  a  cliff  of  brown  clay.  Thence  we  made  2}4 
miles  to  another  island  ;  three  miles  further  to  a  third,  six 
miles  beyond  which  is  a  fourth  island; '"  at  the  head  of  which 
we  camped  on  the  southern  shore ;  in  all  18  miles.  The 
party  who  walked  on  the  shore  to-day  'ound  the  plains  to 
the  south  rich,  but  much  parched  (/>.  ,;o)  with  frequent  fires, 
and  with  no  timber,  except  the  scattering  trees  .nbout  the 
sources  of  the  runs,  which  are  numerous  and  fine.  On  the 
north  is  a  similar  prairie  country.  The  river  continues  to 
fall.     A  large  yellow  wolf  was  this  day  killed. 

For  a  month  past  the  party  have  been  troubled  with 
boils,  and  occasionally  with  the  dysentery.  These  were 
large  tumors,  which  broke  out  under  the  arms,  on  the  legs, 
and  generally  in  the  parts  most  exposed  to  action,  which 
sometimes  became  too  painful  to  permit  the  men  to  work. 
After  remaining  some  days,  they  disappeared  without  any 
assistance,  except  a  poultice  of  the  bark  of  the  elm,  or  of 
Indian  meal.  This  disorder,  which  we  ascribe  to  the  mud- 
diness  of  the  river-water,  has  not  affected  the  general  health 
of  the  party,  which  is  quite  as  good  as,  if  not  better  than, 
that  of  the  same  number  of  men  in  any  other  situation. 

/ii/}'  21st.  We  had  a  breeze  from  the  southeast,  by  the 
aid  of  which  we  passed,  at  about  ten  miles,  a  willow-island 

"■• "  Water-which-cries,  or  the  Weeping  stream,"  Gass,  p.  20;  "  I'Eue  que 
pleure,  or  the  water  which  cry's,"  Clark,  MS.,  with  "Weeping  Water  "interlined 
by  Biddle,  to  whom  perhaps  we  owe  the  present  alliterative  name  of  that 
stream  which  makes  into  the  Missouri  at  the  junction  of  Otoe  and  Cass  Cos. 
The  French  form  occurs  in  Perrin  du  Lac. 

'"Some  of  these  islands  are  called  Trudeau's  on  Nicollet's  map,  and  others, 
5  Barrel  islands.  Here  is  also  a  certain  Five  Barrel  creek  on  the  north,  not 
noticed  in  our  text,  but  so  named  on  Nicollet's  and  on  Owen's  map.  Some 
other  points  not  noted  by  the  Expedition  in  approaching  the  Platte,  July  20th 
and  3ist,  are  :  a  creek  on  the  right  hand  (in  Iowa)  marked  Kegg  creek  on  Owen's 
map,  and  Keg  creek  on  Lieut.  G.  K.  Warren's  (about  1859);  it  retains  the  latter 
name.  On  the  left  are  bluffs,  as  Calumet  point  and  Rock  bluff,  near  the  camp 
of  the  30th,  and  also  a  point  called  Iron  Eye  hill.  The  latter  name  is  traceable 
to  the  fEil  de  Fer  of  Perrin  du  Lac,  an  Indian's  name  (see  text  of  Aug.  19th). 
"  Encamped  some  distance  above  a  hill  called  L'aileffroi,  from  an  Indian  chief 
who  was  scaffolded  here  some  years  ago,"  Brackenbridge's  Journal,  1 814,  p.  225. 


11 


THE   PLATTE   RIVER   REACHED. 


51 


>i 


hot 


on  the  south,  near  highlands  covered  with  timbT  at  tne 
bank,  and  formed  of  limestone  with  cemented  shells.  On 
the  opposite  side  is  a  bad  sand-bar,  and  the  land  near  it  is 
cut  through  at  high  water  by  small  channels  forming  a 
number  of  islands.  The  wind  lulled  at  seven  o'clock,  and 
we  reached,  in  the  rain,  the  mouth  of  the  great  river  Platte,'" 
at  the  distance  of  14  miles.  The  highlands  which  had 
accompanied  us  on  the  south  for  the  last  eight  or  ten  miles 
stopped  at  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  entrance  of 
the  Platte.  Captains  Lewis  and  Clark  ascended  the  river  in 
a  periogue  for  about  one  mile  ;  they  found  the  current  very 
rapid,  rolling  over  sand  and  divided  into  a  number  of  chan- 
nels, none  of  which  are  deeper  than  five  or  six  feet.  One 
of  our  Frenchmen,  who  spent  two  winters  on  it,  says  that 
it  spreads  much  more  at  some  distance  from  the  mouth  ; 
that  its  depth  is  generally  not  more  than  five  or  six  feet ; 
that  there  are  many  ^mall  islands  scattered  through  it;  and 

'"Falling  into  the  Missouri  btlween  Cass  Co.,  Neb.,  on  its  right  (south) 
bank,  an<J  Sarpy  Co.,  Neb.,  on  the  other  side.  Across  the  Missouri  is  Mills 
Co.,  la.  At  the  confluence,  on  the  south  bank,  is  the  county  town  well 
natned  Plattsinouth  ("  Platte's  mouth").  The  1,000  foot  contour  line,  which 
hugs  the  Missouri  pretty  evenly  on  both  sides  for  some  distance  below,  here 
recedes  westward  along  the  Platte  to  the  mouth  of  Saline  river;  but  soon  hugs 
the  Missouri  again  on  both  sides,  and  crosses  the  latter  river  at  Council  Kluffs 
and  Omaha,  a  few  mile^  higher  up.  The  Platte  is  the  great  western  tributary 
of  the  Lower  Missouri,  draining  most  of  Nebraska  and  portions  of  Wyoming  and 
Colorado.  Its  two  main  courses,  the  North  and  South  Platte,  unite  in  Nebraska 
nearioi"'  W.  long.  The  former  rises  in  North  Park,  Col.,  runs  north  intoWyo- 
ming,  then  bends  east  and  southeast  to  its  junction.  The  latter  drains  the  Rocky 
mountains  from  the  sources  of  the  Arkansnw  in  Colorado  northward  into  Wyo- 
ming. We  commonly  use  the  French  form  of  the  name,  but  the  river  has  also 
often  been  called  the  Nebraska,  and  Flatwater.  Its  mouth  is  marked  on  the 
Mo.  R.  Comm.  map  640.8  miles  up  river — rather  more  than  Lewis  and  Clark 
thought.  This  point  conventionally  divides  the  "  Lower"  from  the  "  Upper  " 
Missouri.  We  read  in  Perrin  du  Lac  of  the  "  Premier  Poste  de  la  Compagnie 
du  Aaut  Missouri,"  established  in  1792  near  the  mouth  of  the  Platte.  "  The 
river  Platte  is  regarded  by  the  navigators  of  the  Missouri  as  a  point  of  as  much 
importance  as  the  equinoctial  line  amongst  mariners.  All  those  who  had  not 
passed  it  before  were  required  to  be  shaved,  unless  they  could  compromise  the 
matter  by  a  treat.  Much  merriment  was  indulged  on  the  occasion.  From  this  we 
enter  what  is  called  the  Upper  Missouri."    Brackenridge's  Journal,  1814,  p.  336. 


ni, 


' 


52 


CAMP   WniTK   CATFISH,    AI50VK   THE    n.ATTK. 


r  1 , 


n 


.  i  i 


that,  from  its  rapidity  and  tlic  quantity  of  its  sand,  it  can- 
not  be  navigated  by  boats  or  periogues,  though  the  In- 
{/>.Ji)  di.iiis  pass  it  in  small  flat  canoes  made  of  hides. 
That  tiie  Saline  or  Salt  River,  which  in  some  seasons  is  too 
brackish  to  be  drunk,  falls  into  it  from  the  south  about  30 
miles  ••p,  and  a  little  above  it  [/.  <•..  Salt  river]  Elkliorn 
river  [falls  into  the  Platte]  from  the  north,  running 
nearly  parallel  with  the  Missouri  [for  some  little  distance]. 
The  river  is,  in  fact,  much  more  rapid  than  the  Missouri, 
the  bed  of  whicli  it  fills  with  moving  sands,  and  drives  the 
current  on  the  northern  shore,  on  which  it  is  constantly 
encroaching.  At  its  junction  the  I'latte  is  about  600  yards 
wide,  and  the  same  number  of  miles  from  the  Mississippi. 
With  much  ilifficulty  we  worked  around  the  sand-bars  near 
the  mouth,  and  camc-to  above  the  point,  having  made  15 
miles.  A  number  of  wolves  were  seen  and  heard  around  us 
in  the  evening. 

/ti/y  ^Jif.  This  morning  we  set  sail,  and  having  found,  at 
the  distance  of  ton  miles  from  the  Platte,  a  high  and  shaded 
situai:::)n  on  tl;e  north,'"  we  camped  there,  intending  to  make 
the  icquisite  observations,  and  to  send  for  the  neighboring 
tribes,  for  tlie  purpose  of  making  known  the  recent  change 
in  the  government,  and  the  wish  of  the  United  States  to 
cultivate  their  friendship. 

"''  As  the  Missouri  in  this  section  of  its  course  runs  approximately  south  be- 
tween Iowa  ami  Nebraska,  camps  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  (right  liand  goinj; 
lip)  are  on  the  lUtst  side  rather  than  the  north — that  is,  independently  of  the  minor 
l)ends  of  the  river.  Here  I  may  remark,  also,  that  L.  and  C.'s  MSS.  very 
seldom  have  expressions  referring  to  points  of  the  compass  in  noting  sides  of  the 
river  they  are  asccndiii);.  They  say  "  .Starboard  Side  "  and  "Larboard  Side" 
almobt  invariably.  These  terms  Hiddle  uniformly  tdits  .is  "north"  and 
"  south,"  or  otherwise  as  the  cise  may  approximately  be.  Moreover,  the  MSS. 
usually  abbreviate  to  "  Stard.  Sd,"  and  "  I.ard.  Sd.,"  or  simply  "  S.  S.  '  and 
"  L.  S."  Here  is  a  possible  source  of  error,  as  "  S.  S."  might  be  read  "south 
siile."aiul  capital  "  L.  S."  in  manuscript  looks  very  much  like  ''  S.  S."if  the  lower 
loop  of  the  L  is  not  well  formed,  Probably  here  is  the  simple  explanation  of 
occasional  wrong  location  of  I.,  and  C.'s  creeks  and  camps.  The  c.imp  of  this 
day,  Julv  22d,  is  on  the  f'isl  side  of  the  Missouri,  by  estimate  ten  miles  above  the 
Platte;  it  is  therefore  on  or  close  to  the  boundary  between  Millsand  Pottawatamie 
Cos.,  la.,  and  nearly  or  about  the  same  distance  below  the  present  site  of  Coun- 
cil UlulTs  and  Omaha — past  Ccrro  Gordo,  Ia.,an<l  IJellevue,  Neb. 


I  ,.^ 


I 


i 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE    MrsSOUK,    KKOM    T.,E    PLATTE   TO    VERMIMON    RrVER 

""'k:;:^.::!^?^;::;:  :;:r^-;::^:^- :—-"-;  r-—  -■— '^" 

.St,.,,..    riv..r-l...c    d-K.,,ri,  -l>,  ,i,ie    ,1,     r  "•'•""'^-A  d«cr.i„„_I.i„|e  si.„„  or 

vi'"-'«- aha  c^;.k-^,^^.,J'^k,Tr''V  "'''''    ■'""  ^"''-'— '>!-'    "...a.,, 

r>^-..h„f  s.,,..a,„  c.,ari.s  il'  - 1;'  V  Tir;*'''"'""''''- ''''''•"'  — ■'- 

l>l..frs-l>,„„„„i„„  ..f  ,.a,rick  »-.,-!  •  ""l''l"f^-< 'r.a.    Si„„x    riv.r-Mi„„al 

lurther,,       |„.  bank,  aic  higher,  and  opposite  oui   .u„D 
firs.   „,„3  approach   the   ,iver,  a,K,  1  covered  iih 
ti.i,be,.  M,ch  as  oak,  walnut,  and  eh„.     The  inter,„e,  I    , 
country  „  w.a.ered  by  PapiMon  ■  „r  Butterfly    r-T, bo 
■!>  ya,d,,  „.,de,  and  throe  miles  from  the  Patte      ,     ,1 

U'e  stayed  here  seve,al  days,  during  which  we  dried  our 
a..d  ,naps  of  the  country  we  had  passed,  for  the  Preside," 

"^^^:^^-rt.:i:T^:r"rcr  "t" '■>■" ^ 

.^amc  is  tl,c.  same,  """'"'"""•  ^°-  '"-  '^"^  ^'"P""  ir,   Ahlls  Co.     l,s  present 

S3 


ir 


I 


,:l 


,1 
f 


!  )l   \ 


54 


INDIAN  EMBASSY— ELK-HORN   RIVER. 


of  the  United  States,  to  whom  we  intend  to  send  them  by 
a  periogue  from  tliis  place.  The  hunters  have  found  game 
scarce  in  this  neighborhood ;  they  have  seen  deer,  turkeys, 
and  grouse;'  we  have  also  an  abundance  of  ripe  grapes; 
and  one  of  our  men  caught  a  white  catfish,'  the  eyes  of 
which  were  small,  and  its  tail  resembling  that  of  a  dolphin. 
The  present  season  is  that  in  which  the  Indians  go  out  on 
the  prairies  to  hunt  the  buffalo ;  but  as  we  discovered 
some  hunters'  tracks,  and  observed  the  plains  on  fire  in  the 
direction  of  their  villages,  we  hoped  that  they  might  have 
returned  to  gather  the  green  Indian  corn.  We  therefore 
dispatched  two  men  '  to  (p.  jj)  the  Ottoe  or  Pawnee  villages 
with  a  present  of  tobacco,  and  an  invitation  to  the  chiefs 
to  visit  us.  They  returned  after  two  days'  absence.  Their 
first  course  was  through  an  open  prairie  to  the  south,  on 
which  they  crossed  Butterfly  creek.  They  then  reached 
a  small  beautiful  river,  called  Come  [sic — read  Corne]  de 
Cerf,  or  Elk-horn"  river,  about  lOO  yards  wide,  with  clear 
water  and  a  gravelly  channel.  It  empties  a  little  below 
the  Ottoe  village  into  the  Platte,  which  they  crossed, 
and  arrived  at  the  town  about  45  miles  from  our  camp. 
They  found  no  Indians  there,  though  they  saw  some  fresh 
tracks  of  a  small  party. 

The  ''•ttoes  were  once  a  powerful  nation  and  lived  about 
20  miles  above  the  Platte,  on  the  southern  bank  of  the 
Missouri.  Being  reduced,  they  migrated  to  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Pawnees,  under  whose  protection  they  now 


lI    , 


"These  .ire  the  pinn.ited  grouse  or  prairie-hen,  whose  best-k-nown  technical 
name  is  Cuf'iiioiiia  tufiu'i'.  lately  changed  by  the  rules  of  the  .American  Orni- 
thologists' Union  to  Tvmpiinuchus  americanits. 

■*  Ictnlui  US  piinctiilHS.  From  this  fish  the  present  station  of  the  Expedition 
was  named  Camp  White  Catfish.  Clark  enters  in  his  journal  of  July  23d  :  "  I 
comnier<ce  coppying  a  map  of  the  river  below  to  send  to  the  r[residentj.  U.  S."; 
and  24th  :  "  Capt.  Lewis  also  much  engaged  in  prcp.iring  papers  to  send  back 
by  a  perogue."     Hut  nothing  was  dispatched  to  Jefferson  till  April  7th,  1R05. 

*  George  Drewyer  and  Peter  Cruzatte. 

'The  French  forrr>  is  in  Perrin  du  Lac.  Clark  here  wrote  "Corne  de  Charf 
or  Elk  Horn  river,"  and  elsewhere  "  Hartshorn"  river. 


OTTO  AND   PAWNEE   INDIANS. 


55 


t-al 

[li- 

?n 
I 


live.  Their  village  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  Platte, 
about  30  miles  from  its  mouth ;  and  their  number  is 
200  men.  including  about  30  families  of  Missouri  Indians, 
who  are  incorporated  with  them. 

Five  leagues  above  them,  on  the  same  side  of  the  river, 
resides  the  nation  of  Pawnees.'  This  people  were  among 
the  most  numerous  of  the  Missouri  Indians,  but  have 
gradually  been  dispersed  and  broken,  and  even  since  the 
year  1797  have  undergone  some  sensible  changes.  They 
now  consist  of  four  bands  ;  the  first  is  [the  Grand  Pawnee,] 
the  one  just  mentioned,  of  about  500  men,  to  whom  of  late 

'  To  appreciate  the  position  of  the  Pawnee  nations  among  Indians  we  must 
first  distinguish  them  from  any  tribes  of  the  great  Siouan  family,  and  next 
recognizt  their  relationship  with  the  Caddoes,  as  members  of  the  same  linguistic 
stock.  Though  the  Pawnees  and  Caddoes  were  long  supposed,  as  by  Gallatin 
and  many  later  writers,  to  be  primitively  distinct,  they  have  now  been  deter- 
mined to  be  branches  of  one  family,  for  which  the  term  Caddoan  is  selected 
by  Powell  as  designative.  In  his  clear  classification  the  Caddoans  consist  ; 
1.  Of  a  ni<>th,rii  group,  consisting  of  the  Arikara  or  Ree  tribe  alone  (see 
beyond).  2.  Of  a  middle  group,  comprising  the  four  nations  of  Pawnees.  3. 
Of  a  southern  group,  including  the  Ciddoes  and  other  tribes  which  were  in 
Te.xas,  Louisiana,  Arkansas,  and  the  Indian  Territory. 

Accr-rding  to  Dr.  Dunbar  (1806  ;  English  ed.  1S07,  2d  English  ed.  i8o<). 
p.  15)  the  original  hunting-ground  of  the  Pawnees  extended  from  the  river  now 
called  Niobrara,  in  Nebraska,  south  to  the  Arkansas  river,  though  no  definite 
bound.iry  can  be  fixed.  In  later  times  they  have  resided  on  the  Platte  river, 
west  of  what  is  now  Columbus,  Neb.  The  Pawnee  tribes  were  removed 
to  the  Indian  Territory  in  1876.  According  to  the  Indian  Report  for  i8Sq  they 
were  officially  enumerated  as  824  in  number,  representing  a  little  over  one-third 
of  the  entire  remaining  Caddoan  stock  (2,259). 

Though  Lewis  and  Clark  here  spell  the  name  Pawnee,  this  was  not  the 
usual  form  of  the  word  in  their  day,  when  we  more  frequently  find  Pani, 
Pania,  or  I'anea.  Lewis  uses  Pania,  plural  Panias,  in  his  Statistical  View 
of  1806.  The  Pawnees  ot  Gallatin  (Trans,  and  Coll.  Amer.  .Vntiq.,  ser.  ii. 
1836,  pp.  128,  306)  included  all  the  Pawnees  of  the  Middle  Group  and  also  the 
Ricaras  or  lilack  Pawnees.  The  Pawnees  or  Panias  of  Latham  (Nat.  Hist. 
Man,  1850,  p.  344)  included  the  Loiips  and  Republicans.  The  I'awnees  of 
Hayden  (Cont.  Ethnol.  and  Philol.  Missouri  Indians,  1862.  pp.  232,  345) 
included  the  Pawnees  and  Arikaras,  being  thus  the  same  as  Gallatin's.  Gal- 
latin (/.  c.)  renders  the  word  Pawnies.  Another  form  is  Pahnies  (Perghaus, 
1845).     Gatschet  renders  Panis  in  1884. 

The  four  principal  tribes  of  the  Pawnee  nation  recognized  by  Powell  in  l8<)l 
were  :   I.    The  Grand,  or  Pawnee  proper,  as  here  given  by  Lewis  and  Clark, 


w 


y  1— 


•^>ii 


5« 


TRIBES   OF  THE   PAWNEES. 


years  have  been  added  the  second  band,  who  are  called 
Republican  Pawnees,  from  their  having  lived  on  the 
Republican  branch  of  the  Kansas  river,  whence  they  emi- 
grated to  join  the  principal  band  of  Pawnees;  the  Repub- 
lican Pawnees  amount  to  nearly  250  men.  The  third  are 
the  Pawnee  Loups,  or  Wolf  Pawnees,  who  reside  on  the 
Wolf  fork  of  the  Platte,  about  go  miles  from  the  principal 
Pawnees,  and  number  280  men.  The  fourth  band  origi- 
nally resided  on  the  Kansas  and  Arkansas,  but  in  their  wars 
with  the  Osages  were  so  often  defeated  that  they  at  last 
retired  to  their  present  position  on  the   Red  river,  where 

9.  The  Pawnee  Republican,  as  given  by  Lewis  and  Claric.  3.  The  Tapage, 
who  did  not  wander  far  from  their  habitat  on  the  Platte.  4.  The  Sicidi,  who 
are  the  Pawnee  Loups  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  otherwise  called  the  Pani-mahas. 

The  Panias  proper  of  Lewis'  Statistical  View,  1806,  also  there  called  Pa  nee, 
are  represented  as  speaking  their  own  language,  and  living  in  one  villago 
up  the  Platte,  30  leagues  from  its  mouth,  on  the  south  side,  and  as  con- 
sisting of  1,600,  with  400  warriors.  They  were  at  war  with  the  Pania-pique, 
both  Oiages,  Kanzas,  Ricaras,  Sioux,  and  some  othur  Indians,  but  at  peace 
with  the  Pawnee  Loups,  Mahas,  Poncas,  Ottoes,  Missouris,  and  Ayauways. 
They  traded  with  St.  Louis  merchants.  "  With  respect  to  their  idea  of  the 
possession  of  the  soil,  it  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Ottoes  ;  they  hunt  on  the 
south  side  of  the  ri.er  Platte  higher  up  and  on  the  head  of  the  Kansas.  .  . 
They  have  resided  in  the  country  which  they  now  [1805]  inhabit,  since  they 
were  known  to  the  whites.  .  ,  The  periods  of  their  residence  at  their  vil- 
lage and  hunting,  are  similar  to  the  Kansas  and  Osages.  Their  population  is 
increasing.  They  are  friendly  and  hospitable  to  all  white  persons  ;  pay  great 
respect  and  deference  to  their  traders,  with  whom  they  are  punctual  in  the  pay- 
ment of  their  debts.  Tliey  are,  in  all  respects,  a  friendly,  well  disposed  people. 
They  cultivate  corn,  beans,  melons,  &c."  (Lewis'  Statist.  View,  London  ed. 
1807,  p.  14.) 

The  Republicans  are  also  called  by  Lewis,  in  his  Statistical  View,  Ar-rah-pa- 
hoo' — that  is,  Arapahoes.  He  says  they  lived  in  1805  in  the  same  village  with 
the  Panias  proper,  having  a  population  of  1,400,  with  300  warriors.  "About 
ten  years  since  [«.  e.,  in  1795  or  1796]  they  withdrew  themselves  from  the  mother 
nation,  and  established  a  village  on  a  large  northwardly  branch  of  the  Kanzas, 
to  which  they  have  given  name  ;  they  afterward  subdivided  and  lived  in  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  country  on  the  waters  of  Kanzas  river  ;  but  being  harassed  by 
their  turbulent  neighbors,  the  Kanzas  [of  Siouan  stock],  they  rejoined  the 
Panias  proper  last  spring  [1S04]."    (Stat.  Vi^w,  Eng.  ed.  1807,  p.  15.) 

The  third  band,  Loups  or  Wolves,  Lewis  calls  in  his  View  Skec'-e-ree,  i.  e., 
the  Skidi  of  modern  nomenclature;  they  are  otherwise  known  as  Pani-mahas.  In 
1805  they  numbered  1,000,  with  280  warriors,  as  given  in  the  text.     In  trade, 


i 


KANINAVIESCH   INDIANS 

"■-  rove  ,„  .he  P.a,„r,„,'r„1ria;:^  '"'""'^  °'  "'• 

">="■     They  are  supoo  ed  !"  ■■'  ""«  "'  =''°'"  400 

';om  .he  Pawnee  n:Z1J:u':ZTr'''  °"S'-"y 
tl.=  improvements  of  the  pi ,,  (i,  ''?S""»'=d  from 
.n  W.la  e,  b„.  ,„^^  .hrougTr  X"::' ""  "°  '-«-  "ve 

<l-ce  .o  Rock  mo„„'?ai,    rr  °  e  Roc  ""^  *"'  ^"'' 

war  and  peace   the.  ^^''^   "fountains]. 

-tionmany  years  since  [r^oranTeSl.^LVr^l'  "'^'"-'^^'  ^-'"  ' 
the  nver  Platte,  to  whicl.  the    name    Is  Iw    ^'^'"^^'^■«  °"  '''"-th  branch  of 
«->se  no  idea  of  an  exclusive  richt  rT  ^"''"'     ^''"«  Pe°P'e  have  like 

the  Wolf  river  above  their  vfage  and"  on'r'""  "'  ?,*=  '^°""^^-  ''"'^y  ^-  - 
hat  r.ver  [Wolf].  This  country  is  Jerv"'!  "I"  T'^'^'^  ^""^'^  '"<=  -""'h  of 
hough  there  is  an  extensive  boJJ  oVL  "j'^^  °  •''^' °f  the  Panias  proper; 

NV  olf  nver  belo.v  their  vilLRe  and  .her  rr  """   '"^•^-^^  '^"^>  between  the 
They  cultivate  corn,  beans  &cTh!        '  ^?'"  ^"^  '^'  ^erf.  or  Elkhorn  river 
also  applicable  to  them.     They  are  se  do'  !  ''''''"  °'  '''  °''^^  P-    -^ 

usually  bring  their  furs  and  pelfrv  to  l";/'^*'^'^  ''^  ^">'  '"''-■  and  ther  fore 
traffic  with  the  whites."    ZSl  ^l]'  ""'^^  °'  ""=  ^^"-  P-P",  where  they 

-  j:^ -;:r  T^;::-^^^^^^  -  ^ed  i„  .e  text,  as  being  then  on 
ITl^f  ■^'"-  Antic,.  Soc.  II.  ,836,7p  i  LT  ?''  '^  ^^"='''"  ^^rans. 
of  the  Pawnee  family,  but  kept  sepl  1  k;  r  • '  '  "'""^  '■"'^'■^^'^''  as 

Tribes.  III.  1853,  p.  402  See  Jl  p  ^^  ^^"atm  in  Schoolcraft's  Indian 
V.;847.  p.  407.  and  of  Latham.  X  t   H;r  1'"'^'^''  ''''■  "'^'^  -^'-^ 

From  all  the  indications  given  bv  r  I'  '^5°'  P"  344. 

apposed  that  the  Pawnees  we  „'i  ^i^:';  '^"'^/'-'''  ''  would  properlv  be 
S.oua„  stock  would  be  Justified  on  other  hnth::,"'-  "'"  "P^*^^''""  '^-'n 
occasioned  their  relegation  to  Caddoan  s  "k  „  t'he"'""'"/"""'^^  "''^'^h  ^ave 
"'^^Pt^d.  stock  m  the  scientific  classification  now 

The   Kaninaviesch    are    called    in    t      •  -  ^ 
accented  Kan-e-nS  -vish.  and  by  the  FrencTn'  u""'"'''''   '"'"^    Kanena.lsU, 
people.  >.  ...  Bufl^alo  Indians).     He  cr^d  ts  .r T  ^^-^-Vnches  (Cow- 
1.500  people  all  told,  and  locates  them  f,.?  ""'^  '="  '°^Ses,  400  warriors 
Platte  and  on  the  south  fork  o   th    cr^  '"'"'  °'  '"^  ^^'^^^  ^-^  of  "  e 

ably  written  Caninahoic,  as  by  oW      "'  - '''     ""''  "'"""^  ''  "'^^  P^^^" 
Arapaho  tribe  of  the  great  ^CZ^:^:^  ^h" liSlt^:::^"^'-^  ^^^  '^ 


f ; 


n 


I, 111 


58         STAITAN,   WETAPAHATO,   AND   KIAWA   INDIANS. 

These  tribes,  of  which  little  more  is  known  than  the  names 
and  the  population,  are  first,  the  Staitan"  or  Kite  Indians, 
a  small  tribe  of  100  men.  They  have  acquired  the  name 
of  Kites  from  their  flying — that  is,  their  being  always  on 
horseback,  and  the  smallness  of  their  nup^bers  is  to  be 
attributed  to  their  extreme  ferocity ;  they  are  the  most 
warlike  of  all  the  western  Indians  ;  they  never  yield  in 
battle  ;  they  never  spare  their  enemies  ;  and  the  retaliation 
of  this  barbarity  has  almost  extinguished  the  nation.  Then 
come  the  Wetapahato'"  and  Kiawa"  tribes,  associated  to- 

'  The  Staitan  or  Kite  Indians,  Lewis  names  in  his  Statistical  View  Staetan, 
Sta  -e-tan,  with  Kite  as  a  nickname,  lie  assigns  them  40  lodges,  loo  warriors, 
total  population  400,  and  locates  them  "on  the  head  of  the  Chyenne,  and  fie- 
quently  with  the  Kanenavish."     They  are  probably  Crows  (Siouan  family). 

'•'The  Statistical  View  of  Lewis  accents  this  name  We-tepa-ha'-to.  His 
census  for  1S05  is  70  lodges,  200  warriors,  and  700  total — this  estimate  includ- 
ing all  the  Kiowas.  Habitat,  Paduca  (North)  fork  of  the  Platte.  He  says  they 
maintain  a  defensive  war  with  the  Siou.\,  but  are  at  war  with  no  other  tribes  to 
his  knowledge.  Of  them  and  the  Kiowas  together  he  adds  :  "They  are  a 
wandering  nation,  inhabit  an  open  country,  and  raise  a  great  number  of  horses, 
which  they  barter  to  the  Ricaras,  Mandans,  &c.  for  articles  of  European 
manufactory.  They  are  a  well  disposed  people,  and  might  be  readily  induced 
to  visit  the  tradl.ig  establishments  on  the  Missouri.  From  the  animals  their 
country  produces,  their  trade  would,  no  doubt,  become  valuable.  These  people 
again  barter  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  articles  they  obtain  from  the  Mene- 
tares,  Ahwahhaways,  Mandans,  ami  Ricaras,  to  the  Uotames  and  Castapanas 
[w]."  These  Indians  were  allied  with  the  Kiowas,  and  are  now  supposed  to 
have  formed  a  part  of  the  Comanches. 

"  Kiawa  is  a  name  variously  spelled  Kiaway,  Kioway,  Kyaway,  etc.,  now  pre- 
ferably Kiowa,  plural  Kiowas.  Gatschet  spells  Kayowa  (Am.  Anti(}.,  Oct.,  18S2, 
p.  280,  where  the  phonetics  are  given).  The  name  is  from  the  Kiowa  word,  K(>i, 
plural  K6-iqu,  meaning  K.iyowa  man;  and  the  Comanche  word  Kayowa  means  rat. 

The  Kiowas  represent  a  distinct  linguistic  stock  now  known  as  the  Kiowan 
family.  Kiaways  are  named  by  dallatin  in  Schoolcraft's  Indian  Tribes,  III. 
1853,  p.  402,  as  residing  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Arkansas.  The  Kioway 
of  Turner  (Pac.  R.  R.  Rep.  III.  pt.  ill.  1856,  pp.  55,  80)  is  based  only  on  the 
Kiowa  or  Caigua  tribe.  The  conjecture  of  Lewis  and  Clark  that  this  tribe  and 
some  others  they  name  are  but  remnants  of  the  great  Paduca  nation  is  borne  out 
by  Latham  (Elem.  Comp.  Philol.,  1862,  p  444),  who  uses  the  expression 
"  more  Paduca  than  aught  else." 

Turner  is  said  to  have  first  formally  separated  the  Kiowan  f.-imily  from  .nil 
others.  "Turner,  upon  the  strength  of  a  vocabulary  furnished  by  Lieut. 
Whipple,  dissents  from  the  opinion  expressed  by  Pike  and  others  to  the  effect 
that  the  language  Is  of  the  same  stock  as  the  Comanche,  and  while  admitting 


'  .     «, 


CASTAHANA,  CATAKA,  AND  DOTAMI  INDIANS. 


59 


gether,  and  amounting  to  200  men  ;  the  Castahana,'"  of  3CX3 
men  ;  to  which  are  to  be  added  the  Cataka,"  of  75  men,  and 
the  Dotami."    These  wandering  tribes  are  conjectured  to  be 

that  its  relationship  to  Comanche  is  greater  than  to  any  other  family,  thinks  that 
the  likeness  is  merely  the  result  of  long  intercommunication.  His  opinion  that 
it  is  entirely  distinct  from  any  other  language  has  been  endorsed  by  liuschmann 
and  other  authorities '■  (Rep-  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Ethnol.  for  1885-86,  pub.  1891, 
p.  84).  Gallatin  mentions  the  tribe  with  the  remark  that  "  both  the  Kiowasand 
Kaskaias  languages  were  harsh,  guttural,  and  extremely  difficult." 

A  difficulty  of  disengaging  the  Kiowas  from  their  neighbors  has  been  that 
close  association  with  the  Comanches  (of  a  different  stock,  the  Shoshonean) 
which  has  tended  to  obscure  the  actually  existing  distinctions.  Sirr.ilarly,  it  is 
difficult  to  determine  their  original  site.  Lewis'  Statistical  \'iew  (1806)  locates 
the  Kiowas  on  the  Paduca  fork  of  the  Platte,  and  adds  that  they  were  frequently 
with  the  Wetepaliatoes,  with  whom,  indeed,  he  enumerates  them  in  his  census, 
giving  for  both  a  total  of  700,  warriors  200,  lodges  70.  By  the  Medicine  Creek 
treaty  of  1S67.  the  Kiowas  and  Comanches  relinquished  .ill  their  rights  to  other 
territory  when  they  were  removed  to  their  present  location  in  Indian  Territory. 
Powell  adds :  "  The  terms  of  the  cession  might  be  taken  to  indicate  a  joint- 
ownership  of  territoiy,  but  it  is  more  likely  that  the  Kiowan  territory  adjoined 
theComanc'.ie  territory  on  the  northwest.  In  fact,  Pope  (Pacific  R.  R.  Rep.  II. 
pt.  iii.  1855,  p.  16)  definitely  locates  the  Kiowa  in  the  valley  of  the  upper 
Arkansas  and  of  its  tributary,  the  Purgatory  (Las  Aminas)  river.  This  is  in 
substantial  accord  with  the  statements  of  other  writers  of  about  the  same  period. 
Schermerhorn  (i3i2)  places  the  Kiowa  on  the  heads  of  the  Ark.msas  and 
Platte.  Earlier  still  they  appear  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Platte."  This  is 
the  position  assigned  them  on  the  map  accompanying  Powell's  Report,  1891. 
Lewis  states  in  his  Statistical  View  of  1806  that  neither  the  Kiowas,  Wetepa- 
hatoes,  nor  Cheyennes  "  have  any  idea  of  exclusive  right  to  the  soil." 

According  to  the  U.  S.  Census  Report  for  1890,  there  were  1,140  Kiowas  on 
the  Kiowa,  Comanche,  and  Wichita  Reservation  in  Indian  Territory. 

'*  The  Castahana  are  enumerated  in  the  .Statistical  View,  1806,  at  5,000  popu- 
lation, with  1,300  warriors,  and  500  lodges  ;  they  are  located  between  the 
sources  of  the  Paduca  (North)  fork  of  the  Platte  and  the  Yellowstone.  Lewis 
states  that  what  he  says  of  the  Dotami  is  equally  applicable  to  the  Castahana, 
"  except  that  they  trade  principally  with  tlic  Crow  Indians,  and  that  they  would 
most  probably  prefer  visiting  an  establishment  on  the  Yellow  Stone  river,  or  at  its 
mouth  on  the  Missouri  "  (London  ed.  1S07.  p,  24).  These  are  the  Comanche 
Indians  (of  the  Shoshonean  or  Snake  family),  and  are  otherwise  called  Alliatan, 
Aiatan,  Ilietan,  letan,  Jetan,  etc. 

'^  The  Cataka,  accented  Cat  -a-ka,  are  represented  in  the  St.itistical  View  as  of 
25  lodges,  75  warriors,  and  total  300.  They  are  located  between  the  north  and 
south  forks  of  the  Cheyenne.  Lewis'  general  remarks  are  to  the  same  effect  as 
those  he  makes  on  the  Kiowas.  This  tribe  is  probably  that  otherwise  known 
as  Kwada.  a  band  of  the  Comanches. 

'*  The  Dotami,  as  here,  or  Dotame,  m.irked  Do-ta  -me,  in  the  Statistical  View, 


iil 


.'ii 


6o 


PADOUCA    INDIANS. 


'i 


^1 


lU 


the  remnants  of  the  great  Padouca  nation,  who  occupied 
the  country  between  the  upper  parts  of  the  Platte  and  tlie 
Kansas.  They  were  visited  by  Bourgemont  in  1724,  and 
then  lived  on  the  Kansas  river.  The  seats  [sites]  which  he 
describes  as  their  residence  are  now  occupied  by  the  Kan- 
sas nation  ;  and  of  the  Padoucas  there  does  not  now  exist 
even  the  name." 

/u/j>  zjt/i.  Having  completed  the  object  of  our  stay,  we 
set  sail  [at  noon],  with  a  pleasant  breeze  from  the  N.  VV, 
The  two  horses  swam  over  to  the  southern  shore,  along 
which  we  went,  passing  by  an  island,  at  3^4  miles,  formed 
by  a  pond  fed  by  springs.  Three  miles  further  is  a  large 
(/>.  75)  sand-island,  in  the  middle  of  the  river;  the  land  on 
the  south  being  high,  and  covered  with  timber;  that  on 

are  located  on  the  heads  of  the  Cheyenne  river,  with  a  total  of  only  120 persons, 
including  30  warriors  and  10  lodges.  Lewis  here  remarks  :  "  The  information 
I  possess,  with  respect  to  this  nation,  is  derived  from  Indian  information  :  they 
are  said  to  be  a  wandering  nation,  inhabiting  an  open  country,  and  who  raise 
a  great  nimber  of  horses  and  mules.  They  are  a  friendly,  well  disposed 
people,  anil  might,  from  the  position  of  their  country,  be  easily  induced  to  visit 
an  establishment  on  the  Missouri,  about  the  mouth  of  Chyenne  river.  They 
have  not,  as  yet,  visited  the  Missouri."  They  are  supposed  to  be  a  band  of  the 
Comanche  tribe,  like  all  the  other  Indians  here  noted,  excepting  the  Kiowas 
themselves,  who  are  now  regarded  as  forming  a  distinct  linguistic  stock  or 
family.     See  note  above. 

"  Meaning,  of  course,  that  the  Padoucas  exist  only  in  name.  The  name  cer- 
tainly  exists,  for  there  it  is  on  the  page.  It  is  now,  also,  the  name  of  a  town  in 
Kentucky.  The  orthography  varies  as  much  as  is  usual  with  Indian  names.  In 
his  Statistical  View,  Lewis  spells  it  Padacus  (in  the  plural)  and  gives  Paddo  .is 
a  French  form.  "This  once  powerful  nation  has,  apparently,"  he  says,  "  en- 
lirely  disappeared  ;  every  inquiry  I  have  m.ide  after  them  has  proved  ineffectual. 
In  the  ye.ir  1724  they  resided  in  sever-il  villages  on  the  heads  of  the  Kansas 
river,  and  could,  at  that  time,  bring  upwards  of  2,000  men  into  the  field  (see 
Du  Pratz,  Hist.  Louisiana,  p.  71,  and  map).  The  inform.ition  that  I  have  re- 
ceived is,  that  being  oppressed  by  the  nations  residing  on  the  Missouri,  they 
removed  to  the  upper  part  of  the  river  Platte,  where  they  afterwards  had  but 
little  intercourse  with  tlie  whites.  They  seem  to  have  given  n.inie  to  the 
northern  branch  of  that  river,  which  is  still  called  the  Paducas  fork.  The  most 
probable  conjecture  is,  that  being  still  further  reduced,  they  have  divided  into 
small  wandering  bands,  which  assumed  the  names  of  the  subdivisions  of  the 
Paduca  nation,  and  are  known  to  us  at  present  under  the  appellation  of  Wete- 
pahatoes,  Kiawas,  Kanenavish,  Katteka,  Dotame,  &c.  who  still  inhabit  the 
country  to  which  the  Pad'.icas  are  said  to  have  removed.     The  majority  of  mv 


A 


OLD    INDIAN   SITES— INDIAN   KNOI',   CREEK. 


6l 


cer- 

n  in 

In 

o  as 
en- 

tual. 
sas 
see 
re- 

they 
but 
the 

nost 


the  north,  a  high  prairie.  At  \o}i  miles  from  our  camp, 
we  saw  and  examined  a  curious  collection  of  graves  or 
mounds,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  Not  far  from  a 
low  piece  of  land  and  a  pond,  is  a  tract  of  about  200  acres 
in  circumference,  which  is  covered  with  mounds  of  different 
heights,  shapes,  and  sizes;  some  of  sand,  and  some  of  both 
earth  and  sand  ;  the  largest  being  nearest  the  river.  These 
mounds  indicate  the  position  of  the  ancient  village  of  the 
Ottoes,  before  they  retired  to  the  protection  of  the  Paw- 
nees. After  making  15  miles,  we  camped  on  the  south," 
on  the  bank  of  a  high  handsome  prairie,  with  lofty  cotton- 
wood  in  groves  near  the  river. 

////)'  2S//1.  At  one  mile  this  morning  we  reached  a  bluff  " 
on  the  north,  being  the  first  highlands  which  approach  the 
river  on  that  side  since  we  left  the  Nadawa  [river].  Above 
this  is  an  island,  and  a  creek  about  15  yards  wide,  which, 
as  it  lias  no  name,  we  called  Indian  Knob""  [Round  Knob, 
Gass]  creek,  from  a  number  of  round  knobs  bare  of  timber, 
on  the  highlands  to  the  north.  A  little  below  the  bluff,  on 
the  north,  is  the  spot  where  the  Ayauway  Indians  formerly 
lived.  They  were  a  branch  of  the  Ottoes,  and  emigrated 
from  this  place  to  the  river  Des  Moines.  At  10^  miles, 
we  camped  on  the  north  [i.  c,  east],  opposite  an  island  in 
the  middle  of  tiie  river.  The  land  generally,  on  the  north, 
consists  of  high  prairie  and  hills,  with  timber;  on  the 
south,  it  is  low  and  covered  with  cottonwood.     Our  hunter 

information  led  me  to  believe  that  those  people  spoke  different  languages,  but 
other  and  subsequent  inform.ition  has  induced  me  to  doubt  the  fact."  (London 
ed.  1807,  p.  3g.)     For  the  case  of  the  Kiowas  see  above  note. 

'*  See  July  22d,  note  there.  To-day's  camp  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  in 
Douglas  Co.,  Neb. ;  and  if  15  miles  were  made,  as  said,  the  Expedition  is  already 
past  the  present  sites  of  Omaha,  Neb.,  and  Council  Bluffs,  la. — a  point  to  be 
remembered  in  locating  the  "  Council-blufI  "  of  our  text, 

"  At  or  near  which  w-is  later  built  a  trading-post,  called  Fort  Croghan — a 
name  to  be  found  on  Nicollet's  map. 

"  .\  much-named  stream  ;  Gopher  creek  of  Nicollet's  and  of  Owen's  map  ;  liig 
Pigeon  river  of  W.-irren's.  and  of  the  G.  L.  O.  (1876)  map  ;  later  Indian  creek  ; 
arising  in  Shelby  Co. ,  running  through  Harrison  Co.  into  Pottawattamie  Co.,  and 
emptying  into  the  Missouri  near  Crescent  City,  la.,  a  little  above  the  fiSoth  mile 
point.    To-day's  camp  is  but  little  above  this  stream,  and  on  the  lowan  (east)  side. 


■v\ 


k 


6i 


A    MISSOURI   INDIAN— BOYERS    RIVER. 


t   •, 
I    1. 


brought  to  us  in  the  evening  a  Missouri  Indian  whom  he 
had  found,  with  two  others,  dressing  an  cTk  ;  they  wore 
perfectly  friendly,  gave  him  some  of  the  meat,  and  one  of 
them  agreed  to  accompany  him  to  the  boat.  He  is  one  of 
the  few  remaining  Missouris,  who  live  with  the  Ottoes ;  he 
belongs  to  a  small  party,  whose  camp  is  four  miles  from  the 
river ;  and  he  says  that  the  body  of  the  nation  is  now  hunt- 
ing buffalo  in  the  plains.  He  appeared  quite  sprightly, and 
his  language  resembled  that  (^p- j6)  of  the  Osages,  particu- 
larly in  his  calling  a  chief  "inca."  We  sent  him  back  with 
one  of  our  own  party  next  morning, 

July  29///,  with  an  invitation  to  the  Indians  to  meet  us 
above  on  the  river,  and  then  proceeded.  We  soon  came  to 
a  northern  bend  in  the  river,  which  runs  within  20  yards  of 
Indian  Knob  creek,  the  water  of  which  is  five  feet  higher 
than  that  of  the  Missouri.  In  less  than  two  miles,  we 
passed  Boyer's  "  [or  Bowyer's]  creek  on  the  north,  of  25 
yards'  width.  We  stopped  to  dine  under  a  shade,  near  the 
high  land  on  the  south,  and  caught  several  large  catfish, 
one  of  them  nearly  white  and  all  very  fat.  Above  this  high 
land  we  observed  the  traces  of  a  great  hurricane,  which 
passed  the  river  obliquely  from  N.W.  to  S.E.  and  tore  up 
large  trees,  some  of  which,  perfectly  sound  and  four  feet  in 
diameter,  were  snapped  off  near  the  ground.  We  made 
ten  miles  to  a  wood  on  the  north,  where  we  camped. 
The  Missouri  is  much  more  crooked  since  we  passed  the 

"  Present  name  ;  so  also  Clark's  MS.,  but  Bowyer's  on  both  Lewis'  and 
Clark's  maps;  misprinted  Bayer's  and  Kowyer's  on  some  maps.  It  is  the 
Riviere  i  Boyer  of  Perrin  du  Lac.  It  traverses  several  counties  of  western 
Iowa  ;  at  its  main  forks  is  Cedar  Rapids,  Crawford  Co.,  la.  It  was  explored 
by  Thomas  Say,  in  1820,  during  Major  Long's  Expedition.  Three  miles  above 
its  mouth,  across  the  Missouri,  in  what  is  now  Washington  Co.,  Neb.,  Major 
Long  established  himself,  Sept.  17th,  1819,  and  named  the  place  Engineer  Can. 
tonment,  the  latitude  of  which  he  determined  to  be  41"  25' 03.9".  This  spot 
was  half  a  mile  below  a  trading-post  called  Fort  Lisa  (which  had  been  located  by 
the  noted  Manuel  Lisa  of  the  Missouri  Fur  Company,  with  whom  Clark  was  at 
one  time  in  partnership),  and  five  miles  below  the  Council-blufl  of  Lewis  and 
Clark.  This  is  also  the  original  locality  of  several  of  Mr.  Say's  new  species  of 
mamm.i1s  and  birds.  When  Brackenridge  passed  here.  May  13th,  181 1,  he  saw 
the  houses  of  the  trader  McClelland,  who  had  wintered  at  this  place. 


I 


I 


>       I 


AWAITING  THE   INDIANS. 


63 


I'lattc,  though  generally  speaking  not  so  rapid  ;  there  is 
more  of  prairie,  with  less  timber,  and  cottonwood  in  the 
low  grounds,  with  oak,  black  walnut,  hickory,  and  elm. 

/ii//  30///.  We  went  early  in  the  morning  3)^  miles,  and 
camped  on  the  south,"  in  order  to  wait  for  ti»c  Ottoes.  The 
land  hero  consists  of  a  plain  above  the  high-water  level,  the 
soil  of  which  is  fertile,  and  covered  with  a  grass  from  five 
to  eight  feet  high,  interspersed  with  copses  ot  large  plums, 
and  a  currant,  like  those  of  the  United  States.  It  also  fuN 
nishes  two  species  of  honeysuckle  ;  one  growing  to  a  kind 
of  shrub,  common  about  Harrodsburgh  (Kentucky),  the 
other  is  not  so  high ;  the  flowers  grow  in  clusters,  are  short, 
and  of  a  light  pink  color;  the  leaves  too,  are  distinct  [not 
perfoliate],  and  do  not  surround  the  stalk,  as  do  those  of 
the  common  honeysuckle  of  the  United  States.  Back  of 
this  plain  is  a  woody  ridge  about  70  feet  above  it,  at  the 
end  of  which  we  formed  our  camp.  This  ridge  separates 
the  lower  from  a  higher  prairie,  of  a  good  quality,  with 
grass  of  ten  or  twelve  inches  in  height,  and  extending  back 
about  a  mile,  to  another  elevation  of  {/>.  J/)  80  or  90  feet, 
beyond  which  is  one  continued  plain.  Near  our  camp,  we 
enjoy  from  the  bluffs  a  most  beautiful  view  of  the  river 
and  the  adjoining  country.  At  a  distance,  varying  from 
four  to  ten  miles,  and  of  a  height  between  70  and  3(X)  feet, 
two  parallel  ranges  of  high  land  afford  a  passage  to  the 
Missouri,  which  enriches  the  low  grounds  between  them. 
In  its  winding  course  it  nourishes  the  willow-islands,  the  scat- 
tered cottonwood,  elm,  sycamore,  lynn  [linden,  Tilia  pubcS' 
cens\y  and  ash  ;  and  the  groves  are  interspersed  with  hickory, 
walnut,  coffee-nut  {Gymnocladus  canadensis],  and  oak. 

July  l\st.  The  meridian  altitude  of  this  day  made  the 
latitude  of  our  camp  41'  18'  ijV-  The  hunters  supplied 
us  with  deer,  turkeys,  geese,  and  beaver  ;  one  of  the  last 
was  caught  alive,  and  in  a  very  short  time  was  perfectly 

'"  That  is,  on  the  west  (Nebraskan)  side  of  the  river,  nearly  or  exactly  at  the 
690th  mile  point  of  the  present  course  of  the  Missouri.  On  this  matter  see 
further  note  of  August  3d. 


■1 

I 


*  It 
i  ■ 


64 


ARRIVAL  OF  THE    INDIANS. 


tamed.  Catfisli  arc  very  abundant  in  the  river,  and  we 
have  also  seen  a  bufTalo-fish.  One  of  our  men  brought  in 
yesterday  an  animal  called  by  the  Pawnees  chocartoosh, 
and  by  the  French  blaireau,"  or  badger  [Taxiiiia  atucri- 
caua].  The  evening  is  cool,  yet  the  mosquitoes  are  still 
very  troublesome." 

Aiij;ust  1st  and  2d.  We  waited  with  much  anxiety  the  re- 
turn of  our  messenger  to  the  Ottoes.  The  men  whom  we 
dispatched  to  our  last  camp  returned  without  having  seen 
any  appearance  of  its  having  been  visited.  Our  horses  too 
had  strayed;  but  we  were  so  fortunate  as  to  recover  them 
at  the  distance  of  twelve  miles.  Our  apprehensions  were 
at  length  relieved  by  the  arrival  of  a  party  of  about  14 
Ottoe  and  Missouri  Indians,  who  came  at  sunset,  on  the  2d 
of  August,  accompanied  by  a  Frenchman  "  who  resided 
among  them  and  interpreted  for  us.  Captains  Lewis  and 
Clark  went  out  to  meet  them,  and  told  them  that  we  would 
hold  a  council  in  the  morning.  In  the  mean  time  we  sent 
them  some  roasted  meat,  pork,  flour,  and  meal ;  in  return  for 
which  they  made  us  a  present  of  watermelons.  We  learned 
that  our  man  Liberie  had  set  out  from  their  camp  a  day 
before  them.  We  were  in  hopes  that  he  had  fatigued  his 
horse,  or  lost  himself  in  the  woods,  and  would  soon  return  ; 
but  we  never  saw  him  again. 

(/•  J^)  August  id.  This  morning  the  Indians,  with  their 
six  chiefs,  were  all  assembled  under  an  awning  formed  with 

'"  This  word  happens  to  be  here  spelled  correctly  ;  nearly  always,  in  this 
work,  it  is  corrupted  to  braro,  or  brairo,  or  brarow,  once  braroca,  once  praro, 
and  in  Gass  prarow.  These  forms  indicate  the  Caniidian  voyageurs'  pronuncia- 
tion, caught  by  ear  by  our  travelers.     Pike  has  brelau  and  brelaw. 

■"  "  Tiifsdayiist.  One  of  our  men  went  to  visit  some  traps  he  had  set,  and  in 
one  found  a  young  beaver,  but  little  hurt,  and  brought  it  in  alive.  In  a  short 
time  he  went  out  again  and  killed  a  large  buck.  Two  other  hunters  came  in 
about  twelve,  who  had  killed  two  deer  ;  but  lost  the  horses.  One  of  them  with 
two  other  persons  were  sent  to  hunt,  who  returned  at  dark  without  finding  them  ; 
and  supposed  they  had  been  stolen  by  the  Indians,"  Gass,  p.  2f).  The  lost 
horses  were  not  recovered  till  Aug.  2d  ;  and  a  lost  man  (Liberte)  was  never 
found.     Whether  this  was  death  or  desertion,  or  both,  was  never  known. 

"  Named  as  "  Mr.  Fairfong  "  in  Clark's  .^IS. 


COUNCIL   WITH    THE   INDIANS. 


65 


the  mainsail,  in  presence  of  all  our  part)-,  paraded  for  the 
occasion.  A  speech  was  then  made  announcing  to  them 
the  change  in  the  government,  our  promise  of  protection, 
and  advice  as  to  their  future  conduct.  All  the  six  chiefs 
replied  to  our  speech,  each  in  his  turn,  according  to  rank. 
They  expressed  their  joy  at  the  change  in  the  government ; 
their  hopes  that  we  would  recommend  them  to  their  Great 
Father  (the  President),  that  they  might  obtain  trade  and 
necessaries  ;  they  wanted  arms  as  well  for  hunting  as  for 
di-'fense,  and  asked  our  mediation  between  them  and  the 
Mahas,  with  whom  tiiey  are  now  at  war.  We  promised  to 
do  so,  and  wished  some  of  them  to  accompany  us  to  that 
nation,  which  t^hey  declined,  for  '"ir  of  being  killed  by 
them.  We  then  proceeded  to  distribute  our  presents. 
The  grand  chief  of  the  nation  not  being  of  the  party,  we 
sent  him  a  flag,  a  medal,  and  some  ornaments  for  clothing. 
To  the  six  chiefs  who  were  present,  we  gave  a  medal  of  the 
second  grade  to  one  Ottoe  chief,  and  one  Missouri  chief ;  a 
medal  of  the  third  grade  to  two  inferior  chiefs  of  each  na- 
tion— the  customary  mode  of  recognizing  a  chief  being  to 
place  a  medal  round  his  neck,  which  is  considered  among 
his  tribe  as  a  proof  of  his  consideration  abroad.  Each  of 
these  medals  was  accompanied  by  a  present  of  paint,  gar- 
ters, and  cloth  ornaments  of  dress ;  and  to  this  we  added  a 
cannister  of  powder,  a  bottle  of  whisky,  and  a  few  presents  to 
the  whole,  which  appeared  to  make  them  perfectly  satisfied. 
The  air-gun  too  was  fired,  and  astonished  them  greatly. 
The  absent  grand  chief  was  an  Ottoe  named  Weahrushhah, 
which  in  English  degenerates  into  Little  Thief.  The  two 
principal  chieftains  present  were  Shongotongo  or  Hig  Horse  ; 
and  Wethea  or  Hospitality;  also  Shosguscan  01  White 
Horse,  an  Ottoe  ;  the  first  an  Ottoe.  the  second  a  Missouri." 
The  incident  just  related  induced  us  to  give  to  this  place 


"  In  Clark's  MS.  these  names  stand  as  follows  :  Wearrugenor,  Little  Thief  ; 
Shongotongo,  Big  Horse ;  Wethea,  Hospatality  (j/c)  ;  Shonguscan,  White 
Horse;  with  four  others  not  in  the  text,  Waupeuh,  Ahhoningga,  Uaz.icouja, 
and  Ahhonega,  all  Ottoes. 


66 


THE  COUNCIL-BLUFF. 


w 


I 


,  ' 


the  name  of  the  Council-bluff;"  the  situation  of  it  {J>.J9)  is 
excecdintjiy  favorable  for  a  fort  and  trading-factory,  as  the 
soil  is  well  calculated  for  bricks,  there  is  an  abundance  of 
wood  in  the  neighborhood,  and  the  air  is  pure  and  healthy. 
It  is  also  central  to  the  chief  resorts  of  the  Indians  ;  one 
day's  journey  to  the  Ottoes  ;  i  >^  to  the  great  Pawnees ;  two 
days'  from  the  Mahas  ;  2^4.  from  the  Pawnees  Loups  village; 
convenient  to  the  hunting-grounds  of  the  Sioux ;  and  25 
days'  journey  to  Santa  Fee  [Fe]. 

The  ceremonies  of  the  council  being  concluded,  we  set 
sail  in  the  afternoon,  and  camped  at  the  distance  of  five 
miles,  on  the  south  [Nebraskan]  side,  where  we  found  the 
mosquitoes  very  troublesome. 

August  \th.  A  violent  wind,  accompanied  by  rain,  puri- 
fied and  cooled  the  atmosphere  last  night.     We  proceeded 

"  That  is,  Council  niiiffs,  the  name  of  the  now  flourishing  city  in  IV'-wat- 
tamie  Co.,  la  ,  opposite  the  still  greater  city  o{  Omaha,  Douglas  Co.,  Neb. 
Here  is  the  origin  of  the  name,  though  the  city  is  much  below  the  exact  spot 
where  these  historical  incidents  took  place,  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  river. 
In  the  te.tt,  as  above,  the  name  usually  stands  Council-blufT,  in  one  hyphen- 
ated word.  The  spot  is  not  marked  on  Lewis'  map  of  1806  ;  on  Clark's  of 
1814  the  words  "Council  HlufI  "  are  lettered,  but  on  the  lowan  side  of  the 
river,  with  no  mark  on  the  Nebraskan  side  to  indicate  the  exact  spot.  Hence 
some  confusion  arose,  and  another  element  of  vagueness  was  introduced  by  the 
f.act  that  some  maps  extended  the  name  "  Council  HlufTs"  to  the  whole  range  of 
hills  alon^  the  river  on  either  side.  The  spot  is  marked  on  Nicollet's  map,  as 
determined  by  him  in  l83().  It  was  Liter  the  site  of  Kort  Calhoun,  in  the  pres- 
ent \Vashin;;lon  Co.,  Neb.  We  must  also  remember,  in  attempting  to  fix  this 
spot,  how  much  the  Missouri  has  altered  its  course  since  1804.  This  shiftiness 
of  the  Missouri  is  remarked  upon  by  Nicollet  (Report,  1843,  p.  33),  in  leaving 
Council  HlufTs  :  "  Thus  we  C(  uld  not  recognize  many  of  the  bends  described 
by  Lewis  and  Clark  ;  and,  most  probably,  those  determined  by  us  in  1839,  and 
laid  down  upon  my  map,  will  ere  long  have  disappeareil  ;  such  is  the  unsettled 
course  of  the  river.  .Mready  have  I  been  informed,  in  fact,  that  the  great  bend 
opposite  Council  Hluffs  has  disappeared  since  our  visit  ;  ;ind  that  the  Missouri, 
which  then  flowed  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff,  is  now  further  removed,  by  several 
miles,  to  the  east  of  it.  It  is.  in  this  respect,  curious  to  compare  our  journal  of 
travelling  distances  with  that  of  Lewis  and  Clark.  They  are  fmmd  always  to 
differ,  and  sometimes  considerably.  Yet,  on  arriving  at  any  prominent  station, 
as  the  confluence  of  a  large  river,  the  amount  of  the  parti.")!  distances  computed 
agree  as  nearly  as  could  be  expected,  from  the  methods  employed  to  estimate 
them.'' 


>,..» 


TRAniNG-lIOUSE   AND  CREEKS   PASSED. 


67 


early,  and  readied  a  very  narrow  part  of  the  river,  where 
the  channel  is  confined  u  itliin  a  space  of  200  yards  by  a 
sand-point  on  tiie  north  and  a  bend  on  the  south  ;  the  banks 
in  the  neigliboriiood  are  washing  away,  tlie  trees  falling  in, 
and  the  ciianncl  is  filled  with  buried  logs.  Above  th's  is  a 
trading-house  on  the  soutli,  where  one  of  our  party  [Cru- 
zatte]  passed  two  years,  trading  with  the  Mahas.  At  nearly 
four  miles  is  a  creek  on  the  south,  emptying  opposite  a  large 
island  of  sand  ;  between  this  creek  and  our  last  night's  camp 
the  river  has  changed  its  bed  and  encroached  on  the 
southern  shore.  About  two  miles  further  is  another  creek 
on  the  south,  wliicli.  like  the  former,  is  the  outlet  of  three 
ponds,  communicating  with  each  other  and  forming  a  small 
lake,  which  is  feil  by  streams  from  the  high  lands."  At  15 
miles  we  camped  on  the  south.  The  hills  on  both  sides  of 
the  river  are  nearly  12  or  15  miles  from  each  other;  those 
of  the  north  containing  some  timber,  while  the  hills  of  the 
south  are  without  any  covering,  e.vcept  some  scattering 
wood  in  the  ravines  and  near  where  the  creeks  pass  into 
the  hills;  rich  ])l.iins  and  prairies  occui)y  the  interme- 
diate space  and  are  partially  covered,  ne.ir  the  water, 
cottoi 


w 


(A-/' 


a  great  deal 


of  pumice-stone  on  the  shore  to-day 

August  i)th.     We  set  out  early,  and  by  means  of  our  oars 
made  2oj4  miles,  though  the  river 
bars.     On  both  sides  the   prairies 
the  banks  being  otwered  with  great  quantities  of  grapes,  of 

hich  three  different   species  arc  now  ripe,  one   larg?  and 


was  crowded  with  sand- 
extend  along  the  river  • 


■ 


resembling  the  purple  grape.     We  had  some  rain  this  morii- 


"  Neither  of  the  creeks  mentioned  is  now  idcntifialile  with  cert.iinty.  To 
.inswer  to  one  or  the  other  we  find  .1  Iteaver  crtek  of  N'icollct  and  of  Owen  ;  a. 
No  Ile.nrt  creek  of  the  ('..  I,.  O.  m.ip  cf  iSyO  (emptying;  on  the  boundary 
between  Washington  .ind  Hurt  Co.,  Neb),  and  a  I'ish  creek  on  the  Mo  K. 
Comm.  m.ip  To-day's  camp  is  in  Nebraska,  near  the  700th  mile  iioiiit  of  the 
ni.ip  last  named. 

"  Gass  notes  under  this  date  the  desertion  of  one  of  the  men  (n.it  the  I'Vench- 
man  I.ibertc).  l)eyon(!  mentioned  under  dale  of  Auj;.  7th.  His  name  docs  not 
appear  in  the  text,  but  was  M.  H.  Heed. 


■  :>  'fc  I  rw^^i^y^ 


68 


SHIFTING  OF  THE   MISSOURI— SOLDIER  S  RIVER. 


m  I 


i\i\' 


iiig,  attended  by  high  wind  ;  but,  generally  speaking,  have 
remarked  that  thunder-storms  are  less  frequent  than  in  the 
Atlantic  States,  at  this  season.  Snakes  too  are  less  fre- 
quent, though  we  killed  one  to-day  of  the  shape  and  size  of 
the  rattlesnake,  but  of  a  lighter  color.  We  fixed  our  camp 
on  the  north  side  [Harrison  Co.,  la.]. 

In  the  evening  Captain  Clark,  in  pursuing  some  game  in  an 
eastern  direction,  found  himself  at  the  distance  of  370  yards 
from  the  camp,  at  a  point  of  the  river  whence  we  had  come 
twelve  miles.  When  the  water  is  high,  this  peninsula  is 
overflowed  ;  and,  judging  from  the  customary  and  notorious 
changes  in  the  river,  a  few  years  will  be  sufficient  to  force 
the  main  current  of  the  river  across  and  leave  the  great 
bend  dry.  The  whole  lowland  between  the  parallel  ranges 
of  hills  seems  formed  of  mud  or  ooze  of  the  river,  at  some 
former  period  mixed  with  sand  and  clay.  The  sand  of  the 
neighboring  banks  accumulates  with  the  aid  of  that  brought 
down  the  stream,  and  forms  sand-bars  projecting  into  the 
river ;  these  drive  the  channel  to  the  opposite  bank,  the 
loose  texture  of  which  it  undermines,  and  at  length  deserts 
its  ancient  bed  for  a  new  and  shorter  passage.  It  is  thus 
that  the  banks  of  the  Missouri  are  constantly  falling,  and 
the  river  is  changing  its  bed. 

August  6f/i.  In  the  morning,  after  a  violent  storm  of 
wind  and  rain  from  the  N.W.,  we  passed  a  large  island  to 
the  north.  In  the  channel  separating  it  from  the  shore,  a 
creek  called  Soldier's^"  river  enters;  the  island  kept  it 
from  our  view,  but  one  of  our  men  who  had  seen  it, 
represents  it  as  about  (/».  ^i)  40  yards  wide  at  its 
mouth.  At  five  miles,  we  came  to  a  bend  of  the  river 
toward  the  north.  A  sand-bar,  running  in  from  the  south, 
had  turned  its  course  so  as  to  leave  the  old  channel  quite 
dry.  We  again  saw  the  same  appearance  at  our  camp, 
20^^  miles  distant,  on  the  north  side.  Here  the  channel 
of  the  river  had  encroached    south,  and    the  old  bed   was 

"  Also  variously  Soldier,  Soldiers,  and  Soldiers'  ;  R.  des  Soldats  of  Perrin  du 
Lac  ;  ntnning  in  Ida,  Crawford,  Monona,  and  Harrison  Cos.,  la. 


4 


DETACHMENT   ISLANDS— A  DESERTION. 


69 


without  water,   except  a  few  ponds.     The   sand-bars   are 
still  very  numerous. 

August  jth.  We  had  another  storm  from  the  N.W.  in 
the  course  of  the  last  evening.  In  the  morning  we  pro- 
ceeded, having  the  wind  from  the  north,  and  camped  on 
the  northern  shore,  having  rowed  17  miles.  The  river  is 
here  encumbered  with  sand-bars,  but  there  are  no  island^ 
except  two  small  ones,  called  Detachment  islands,  formed 
Oil  the  south  side  by  a  small  stream. 

We  dispatched  four  men  back  to  the  Ottoe  village  in 
quest  of  our  man  Libert^,  and  to  apprehend  one  of  the 
soldiers,  who  left  us  on  the  4th  under  pretense  of  recover- 
ing  a  knife  which  he  had  dropped  a  short  distance  behind, 
and  who  we  fear  has  deserted."  We  also  sent  small  pres- 
ents to  the  Ottoes  and  Missouris,  and  requested  that  they 
would  join  us  at  the  Maha  village,  where  a  peace  might  be 
concluded  between  them. 

August  SM.  At  two  miles'  distance,  this  morning,  we 
came  to  a  part  of  the  river  where  there  was  concealed 
timber  difficult  to  pass.  The  wind  was  from  the  N.W,, 
and  we  proceeded  in  safety.  At  six  miles,  a  river  empties 
on  the  north  side,  called  by  the  Sioux  Indians  Eaneah- 
wadepon,'"   or    Stone    river;    and    by    the  French,  Petite 

"  "Four  of  our  people  were  dispatched  to  the  Oto  nation  of  Indians  after 
the  man  [M.  B.  Reed]  who  had  not  returned  on  the  4th,  with  orders  to  take 
him  dead  or  alive,  if  they  could  see  him,"  Gass,  p.  27.  "At  i  o'clock  dis- 
patched George  Drewyer,  R,  Fields,  \Vm.  Bratton  &  \Vm.  Labieche  back 
after  the  Deserter  reed,  with  order  if  he  did  not  give  up  peaceably  to  put  him  to 
Death,"  Clark,  MS. 

'"  Dakotan  Indian  name,  from  inyan,  "stone,"  and  ira-tpa,  "river,"  /.  e.. 
Stone  river,  as  in  the  text.  This  is  the  largest  of  zz.^xaX  streams  draining 
western  parts  of  Iowa  into  the  Missouri,  arising  near  the  sources  of  the  Des 
Moines  in  S.W.  Minnesota,  in  a  system  of  prairie  lakes,  the  largest  of  which, 
close  by  the  Des  Moines  river,  is  about  7  miles  long  and  bro.id,  and  commonly 
known  as  Spirit  lake,  from  the  Siou.x  name  Mini-wakon,  "  spirit  "  or  "  medicine  " 
water.  One  of  its  largest  tributaries  had  the  Indian  name  Otdicyedan,  derived 
from  a  hill  where  the  Indians  went  to  mourn  their  de.-»d  relatives,  the  word 
meaning  "crying-place."  This  is  marked  Ocheyedan  hillock  or  .Mourning 
ground  on  Nicollet's  map.  Clark's  map  (1814)  draws  a  straight  line,  in  part 
along  the  Little  Siou.x  river,  from  the  Missouri  to  the  Des  Moines,  calling  it  the 


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70 


EANEAHWADEPON   OR   LITTLE   SIOUX    RIVER. 


Rivifere  des  Sioux,  or  Little  Sioux  river.  At  its  confluence 
it  is  80  yards  wide.  Our  interpreter,  Mr.  Durion,  who  has 
been  to  the  sources  of  it  and  knows  the  adjoining  country, 
says  that  it  rises  within  about  nine  miles  of  the  river  Des 
Moines;  that  within  15  leagues  of  that  river  it  passes 
through  a  large  lake  nearly  60  miles  in  circumference, 
divided  into  two  parts  by  rocks  which  approach  each  other 
very  {p.  ^)  closely ;  its  width  is  various;  it  contains  many 
islands,  and  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  Lac  d'Esprit ;  it 
is  near  the  Dog  plains  [Prairie  du  Chien],  and  within  four 
days'  march  of  the  Mahas.  The  country  watered  by  it  is 
open  and  undulating,  and  may  be  visited  in  boats  up  the 
river  for  some  distance.  The  Des  Moines,  he  adds,  is  about 
80  yards  wide  where  the  Little  Sioux  river  approaches  it ; 
it  is  shoaly,  and  one  of  its  principal  branches  is  called  Cat 
river.  Two  miles  beyond  this  [Little  Sioux]  river  is  a  long 
island  which  we  called  Pelican  island,"  from  the  numbers  of 
that  bird  which  were  feeding  on  it ;  one  of  these  being 
killed,  we  poured  into  his  bag  five  gallons  of  water.  An 
elk  was  shot,  and  we  had  again  to  remark  that  snakes  are 
rare  in  this  part  of  the  Missouri.  A  meridian  altitude 
near  the  Little  Sioux  river  made  the  latitude  41°  42'  34". 
We  camped  on  the  north  [in  Monona  Co.,  la.],  having  come 
16  miles. 

August  gth.     A  thick  fog  detained   us  until  past  seven 
o'clock,  after    which  we  proceeded    with  a  gentle   breeze 

Old  Route  ;  and  indicates  two  portages  from  as  many  lakes  over  to  the  Des 
Moines.  'The  Little  Sioux  flows  in  a  gener.il  S.W.  and  S.  course,  and  empties 
into  the  Missouri  in  Harrison  Co.,  la.  It  is  the  Inyan  Vankey  of  Nicollet's 
map.  Clark's  MS.  has  Eaneahwaudepon  and  Petite  river  de  Cuoiiex,  and  again 
Little  Cuouex.  said  to  pass  through  a  lake  called  Despree,  i.e.,  d'Esprits.  Clark 
never  settled  on  any  spelling  of  the  word  Sioux,  and  his  MS.  shows  great  origi- 
nality and  fertility  of  resource  in  arranging  the  letters.  I  find,  for  instance, 
besides  Cuouex,  Scouex,  Suouex,  Souex,  Souix,  Soux,  Soues,  Sieouex,  Sceouex, 
Sicouex,  Seaux.  Seauex.  Sues,  etc.,  with  some  remarkable  endings  for  imaginary 
plurals  in  -xs  and  -xes.  Some  of  these  permutations  persist  in  his  MS.  of  later 
years.     The  uniformity  of  Sioux  in  the  text  is  due  to  Biddle. 

"'  Such  an  island  appears  on  the  Mo.  R.  Comm.  map,  its  head  at  the  730th 
mile  point 


COUPLE  A  JACQUES. 


ft 


from  the  southeast.  After  passing  two  sand-bars  we 
reached,  at  7^  miles,  a  point  of  high  land  on  the  left,  near 
which  the  river  has  forced  itself  a  channel  across  a  penin- 
sula,  leaving  on  the  right  a  circuit  of  12  or  18  miles,  which 
is  now  recognized  by  the  ponds  and  islands  it  contains.  At 
17}4  miles,  we  reached  a  point  on  the  north,  where  we 
camped.  The  hills  are  at  a  great  distance  from  the  river 
for  the  last  several  days;  the  land  on  both  sides  is  low,  and 
covered  with  Cottonwood  and  abundance  of  grape-vines. 
An  elk  was  seen  to-day,  a  turkey  was  shot,  and  near  our 
camp  is  a  beaver-den  ;  the  mosquitoes  have  been  more 
troublesome  than  ever  for  the  two  last  days. 

Au£-ust  loth.  At  21^  miles,  we  came  to  a  place  called 
Couple  k  Jacques,  where  the  river  has  found  a  new  bed 
and  abridged  a  circuit  of  several  miles;  at  12^  miles,  to  a 
cliff  of  yellow  stone  on  the  left.  This  is  the  first  high  land 
near  the  river  above  the  Council-bluff.  After  passing  a 
number  of  sand-bars  we  reached  a  willow-island  at  the  dis- 
tance of  22>^  miles,  which  we  (/.  ^j)  were  enabled  to  do 
with  our  oars  and  a  wind  from  the  S.VV.,  and  camped  on 
the  north  side." 

August  nth.  After  a  violent  wind  from  the  N.W.  at- 
tended  with  rain,  we  sailed  along  the  right  of  the  island. 
At  nearly  five  miles,  we  halted  on  the  south  side  for  the 
purpose  of  examining  a  spot  where  one  of  the  great  chiefs 
of  the  Mahas  [Omalias],  named  Blackbird,  who  died  about 

■'"  Neither  the  courses  nor  distances  of  Aug.  9th  and  loth  can  now  be  recog- 
nized with  any  certainty,  as  the  bed  of  the  river  has  changed  greatlv,  with  cor- 
responding alteration  of  the  boundary  line  between  what  are  now  Iowa  and 
Nebraska.  Several  maps  consulted  show  different  courses,  cut-offs,  and  lakes, 
variously  named  and  hardly  identifiable.  How  these  may  be  formed  is  indi- 
cated in  the  following  :  "  Passed  /a  coupe  ,\  /.'Oisdle.  This  name  originated  in 
the  circumstance  of  a  trader  having  made  a  narrow  escape,  being  in  the  river  at 
the  very  moment  that  this  cut-off  was  forming.  It  was  a  bend  of  fifteen  miles 
round,  and  perhaps  not  more  than  a  few  hundred  yards  across,  the  neck,  which 
was  suddenly  cut  through  by  the  river  and  became  the  main  channel."  Prack- 
enridge,  Journal,  1814,  p.  229.  On  the  whole  the  river  seems  to  have  straight- 
ened, as  the  distances  now  computed  are  decidedly  less  than  those  estimated  by 
Lewis  and  Clark.     Camp  of  Aug.  loth  is  in  Monona  Co.,  la. 


'*t    1 


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7Z 


BLACKBIRD,  AN  OMAHA  CHIEF, 


four  [in  1800]  years  ago  of  the  smallpox,  was  buried.  A 
hill  of  yellow  soft  sandstone  rises  from  the  river  in  bluffs 
of  various  heights,  till  it  ends  in  a  knoll  about  300  feet 
above  the  water ;  on  the  top  of  this  a  mound,  of  twelve 
feet  diameter  at  the  base  and  six  feet  high,  is  raised  over 
the  body  of  the  deceased  king;  a  pole  of  about  eight  feet 
high  is  fixed  in  the  center,  on  which  we  placed  a  white 
flag,  bordered  with  red,  blue,  and  white.  Blackbird  seems 
to  have  been  a  personage  of  great  consideration  ;  for  ever 
since  his  death  he  has  been  supplied  with  provisions,  from 
time  to  time,  by  the  superstitious  regard  of  the  Mahas." 
We  descended  to  the  river  and  passed  a  small  creek  on  the 
south,  called  by  the  Mahas  Waucandipeeche  "  (Great  Spirit 

"The  following  notice  of  Blackbird,  who  seems  to  have  been  a  pretty  black 
sheep  of  the  Omaha  flock,  is  taken  from  Brackenridge's  Journal  (orig.  ed., 
Pittsburgh,  1814),  p.  229: 

"  SatiirJay  lilh.  A  fine  breeze  S.W.  At  seven  arrived  at  the  Black-bird 
hill.  .  .  It  takes  its  name  from  a  celebrated  chief  of  the  Mahas,  who  caused  him- 
self to  be  interred  on  the  top  ;  a  mound  has  been  erected  on  the  pinnacle,  with 
a  branch  stuck  in  it ;  a  tlag  was  formerly  attached  to  it.  He  was  buried  sitting 
erect  on  horseback  ;  the  reason  why  he  chose  this  spot  was  to  enable  him 
to  see  the  traders  as  they  ascended.  This  chief  was  as  famous  in  his  life- 
time amongst  all  the  nations  in  this  part  of  the  world,  as  Tamerlane  or  Bajazet 
were  in  the  plains  of  Asia  ;  a  superstitious  awe  is  still  paid  to  his  grave.  Vet 
the  secret  of  his  greatness  was  nothing  more  than  a  quantity  of  arsenic  which  he 
procured  from  some  trader.  He  denounced  death  against  anyone  who  dis- 
pleased him  or  opposed  his  wishes  ;  it  is,  therefore,  not  surprising  that  he,  who 
held  at  his  disposal  the  lives  of  others,  should  possess  unlimited  power  and 
excite  universal  terror.  The  proud  savage,  whenever  this  terrible  being  ap- 
peared, rendered  the  homage  of  a  slave."  This  immense  brute's  Indian  name 
was  Wash-ing-guh-sah-ba  ;  he  was  a  great  scoundrel  and  a  great  soldier.  His 
own  ba:id  was  called  Monekagoha,  or  the  Earth-makers,  from  their  habit  of  rub- 
bing the  body  with  clay  when  mourning.  During  his  youth  the  Omahas  were 
above  the  mouth  of  Floyd's  river.  He  sought  to  poison  Little  Bow,  an  inferior 
chief  who  opposed  him  ;  but  he  failed,  and  Little  Bow  maintained  a  separate 
village  on  the  Missouri  till  Blackbird's  death.  The  successor  of  Blackbird  was 
Mushinga  or  the  Big  Rabbit,  who  wa-i  shortly  succeeded  by  T.isone,  the  White 
Cow,  and  he  by  Ongpatonga,  the  Big  Elk.  (See  Long's  Exp.  R.  Mts.  I..  Eng. 
ed.,  pp.  204-207).  Tradition  has  magnified  Blackbird's  exploits,  and  the  hill 
where  he  was  buried  still  bears  his  name.  His  best  biography  is  Irving's 
(Astoria,  ed.  l36l,  pp.  161-166). 

"  Elsewhere  called  "  Warcarde  or  Bad  Spirit"  creek.     Tho  name  is  spelled 


-mrn^S'^ 


WAUCANDIPEECHE   CREEK. 


T3 


is  bad).  Near  this  creek  and  the  adjoining  hills  the  Mahas 
had  a  village,  and  lost  400  of  their  nation  by  the  dreadful 
malady  wiiich  destroyed  Blackbird.  The  meridian  altitude 
made  the  latitude  42""  1'  3^"  north.  We  camped  at  17 
miles'  distance,  on  the  north  side,  in  a  bend  of  the  river." 
During  our  day's  course  it  has  been  crooked  ;  we  observed 
a  number  of  places  in  it  where  the  old  channel  is  filled  up, 
or  gradually  becoming  covered  with  willow  and  cotton, 
wood.  Great  numbers  of  herrons  [herons,  Herodias  egr€tta\ 
are  observed  today,  and  mosquitoes  annoy  us  very  much. 

Atigiist  \2tl1.  A  gentle  breeze  from  the  south  carried  us 
along  about  ten  miles,  when  we  stopped  to  take  a  meridian 
altitude,  and  sent  a  man  across  to  our  place  of  observation 
yesterday.  He  stepped  974  yards,  and  the  distance  we  had 
come  round  was  i8j^  miles.  The  river  is  wider  and  shal- 
lower than  usual.  Four  miles  beyond  this  bend  a  bluff 
begins,  and  (/>.  ./^)  continues  several  miles;  on  the  south  it 
rises  from  the  water  at  different  heights,  from  20  to  150 
feet,  and  higher  as  it  recedes  on  the  river  ;  it  consists  of 
yellow  and  brown  clay,  with  soft  sandstone  imbedded  in  it, 
and  is  covered  with  timber,  among  which  may  be  observed 
some  red  cedar  ;  the  lands  on  the  opposite  side  are  low  and 
subject  to  inundation,  but  contain  willows,  cottonwoods, 
and  many  grapes.  A  prairie-wolf  \Canis  latrans\  came  near 
the  bank  and  barked  at  us;  we  attempted  unsuccessfully 
to  take  him.  This  part  of  the  river  abounds  in  beaver. 
We  camped  on  a  sand-island  in  a  bend  to  the  north," 
having  made  20^  miles. 

August  \7,t/i.     Set  out  at  daylight  with  a  breeze  from  the 

W.-iwandysenche  on  Clark's  map,  1S14.  and  Long's,  1823.  The  first  element  in 
this  name  is  Wakon.Dakotan  for  "  Spirit."  "  Medicine,"or  something  not  under- 
stood. This  stream  is  in  Thurston  Co..  Neb.,  where  is  now  the  Om.aha  Indian 
Reservation. 

"  Near  the  present  Badger  Lake,  Monona  Co.,  la.  Of  the  "  herrons  "  pres- 
ently noticed,  Lewis'  MS.  of  Aug.  2d  gives  a  long  and  good  description. 

•«  Apparently  just  over  the  border  of  Woodbury  Co.,  Li.,  .and  near  a  lake 
marked  on  some  maps  Crooked  lake.  But  there  is  now  no  such  bend  in  the 
river  as  the  text  describes,  and  the  point  cannot  be  located  exactly.  It  should 
be  about  the  775th  mile  point  of  present  charts. 


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FORT  CHARLES— OMAHA  VILLAGE. 


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southeast,  and  passed  several  sand-bars.  Between  lo  and 
1 1  miles,  we  came  to  a  spot  on  the  south  where  a  Mr. 
Mackay"  had  a  trading-establishment  in  the  years  1795 
and  1796,  which  he  called  Fort  Charles.  At  14  miles  we 
reached  a  creek  on  the  south,  on  which  the  Mahas"  reside, 
and  at  17 j4  ro'l^s,  formed  a  camp  on  a  sand-bar,  to  the 
south  side  of  the  river,  opposite  the  lower  point  of  a  large 
island.  From  this  place  Sergeant  Ordway  and  four  men 
were  detached  to  the  Maha  village  with  a  flag  and  a  pres- 

•'  Lewis'  map  of  1806  traces  "  Mr.  J.  Mackay's  Route  "  from  this  point  along^ 
the  Loup  fork  of  the  Platte,  and  back  by  way  of  the  Niobrara  to  the  Missouri. 
This  detail  is  omitted  on  Clark's  map  of  1814,  where  the  Maha  village  is 
marked  very  plainly  on  a  forked  creek.  This  creek  had  the  same  name,  but  its 
position  with  respect  to  the  Missouri  changed  much  in  the  course  of  years.  This 
day's  camp  is  made  very  nearly  opposite  the  present  site  of  Omadi,  in  Dakota 
Co.,  Neb.,  and  not  far  from  a  creek  of  the  same  name. 

"  These  Indians  are  so  called  throughout,  except  once  or  twice  when  the 
name  is  printed  Mahar.  In  the  Statistical  View  Lewis  gives  Maha  and 
O'ma-ha.  The  French  nickname  he  prints  "  La  Mar."  The  name  was  often 
written  Omaw'haw  (so  Long,  1823,  chaps,  x.  et  seq.,  where  Say  gives  their 
history).  The  proper  phonetic  rendering  is  U-man'-ha",  with  scarcely 
nasalized  it's,  and  the  accent  on  the  second  syllable — not  on  the  first,  as  we 
now  always  place  it  in  speaking  the  name  of  the  great  city  opposite  Council 
Bluffs.  The  locality  is  in  Dakota  Co.,  Neb.,  a  little  south  of  Dakota  City,  north 
of  the  present  Omaha  Indian  Reservation. 

The  Omahas  are  a  tribe  of  the  great  Siouan  family.  They  are  now  at  the 
Omaha  and  Winnebago  Agency  in  Nebraska,  to  the  reported  number  of  1,158  ; 
to  which  are  to  be  added  19  at  school  in  Carlisle,  Pa.,  10  at  the  Hampton  school 
in  Virginia,  and  10  at  the  Lawrence  school  in  Kansas  ;  total  1,197. 

In  1805,  when  Lewis'  Statistical  View  was  prepared  (pub.  1806  and  again  1807), 
the  census  was  600,  including  150  warriors  and  60  lodges.  The  indication  of 
their  family  affinities  is  given  by  Lewis,  who  says  that  they  speak  "Osage, 
with  different  accent  ;  some  words  peculiar  to  themselves."  He  adds:  "About 
ten  years  since,  they  boasted  700  warriors.  They  have  lived  in  a  village  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Missouri,  236  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  river  Platte,  where 
they  cultivated  corn,  beans,  and  melons;  they  were  warlike,  and  the  terror  of  their 
neighbours.  In  the  summer  and  autumn  of  1802,  they  were  visited  by  the  small- 
pox, which  reduced  their  numbers  to  something  less  than  300  ;  they  burnt  their 
village,  and  have  become  a  wandering  nation,  deserted  by  the  traders,  and  the 
consequent  deficiency  of  arms  and  ammunition  has  invited  frequent  aggressions 
from  their  neigbours  [sic],  which  have  tended  to  reduce  them  still  further.  They 
rove  principally  on  the  waters  of  the  river  Quicurre  [Qui  court,  the  Niobrara],  or 
Rapid  River.  .  .  The  Tctons  Bois  brfile  [sic]  killed  and  took  about  60  of  them 
last  summer  [1S04]."    (London  ed.  1807,  p.  16.) 


OMAHA    INDIANS. 


n 


ent,  in  order  to  induce  the  Mahas  to  come  and  hold  a 
council  with  us.  They  returned  at  twelve  o'clock  the  next 
day,  August  14//1.  After  crossing  a  prairie  covered  with 
high  grass  they  reached  the  Maha  creek,  along  which  they 
proceeded  to  its  three  forks,  which  join  near  the  village  ; 
they  crossed  the  north  branch  and  went  along  the  south ; 
the  walk  was  very  fatiguing,  as  they  were  forced  to  break 
their  way  through  grass,  sunflowers,  and  thistles,  all  above 
ten  feet  high  and  interspersed  with  wild  pea.  Five  miles 
from  our  camp  they  reached  the  position  of  the  ancient 
Maha  village ;  it  had  once  consisted  of  300  cabins,  but  was 
burnt  about  four  years  ago,  soon  after  the  smallpox  had 
destroyed  400  men  and  a  proportion  of  women  and  children. 
On  a  hill,  in  the  rear  of  the  village  are  the  graves  (p.  ^5)  of 
the  nation,  to  the  south  of  which  runs  the  fork  of  the 
Maha  creek;  this  they  crossed  where  it  was  about  ten 
yards  wide,  and  lollowed  its  course  to  the  Missouri,  passing 
along  a  ridge  of  hill  for  i}4  miles,  and  a  long  pond  between 
that  and  the  Missouri ;  they  then  recrossed  the  Maha  creek, 
and  arrived  at  the  camp,  having  seen  no  tracks  of  Indians 
nor  any  sign  of  recent  cultivation. 

August  \t)th.  In  the  morning  some  men  were  sent  to 
examine  the  cause  of  a  large  smoke  from  the  northeast, 
which  seemed  to  indicate  that  some  Indians  were  near;  but 
they  found  that  a  small  party,  who  had  lately  passed  that 
way,  had  left  some  trees  burning,  and  that  the  wind  from 
that  quarter  blew  the  smoke  directly  toward  us.  Our  camp 
lies  about  three  miles  northeast  from  the  old  Maha  villase, 
and  is  in  latitude  42°  13'  41".  The  accounts  we  have  had 
of  the  effects  of  the  smallpox  on  that  nation  are  most  dis- 
tressing; it  is  not  known  in  what  way  it  was  first  communi- 
cated to  them,  though  probably  by  some  war-party.  They 
had  been  a  military  and  powerful  people;  but  when  these 
warriors  saw  their  strength  wasting  before  a  malady 
which  they  could  not  resist,  their  frenzy  was  extreme ; 
they  burnt  their  village,  and  many  of  them  put  to  death 
their   wives   and    children,  to  save  them  from  so  cruel  an 


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76 


AWAITING  THE  INDIANS. 


affliction,  and  that  all  might  go  together  to  some  better 
country. 

August  i6th.  We  still  waited  for  the  Indians.  A  party 
had  gone  out  yesterday  to  the  Maha  creek,  which  was 
dammed  "  up  by  the  beaver  between  the  camp  and  the  vil- 
lage. A  second  went  to-day.  They  made  a  kind  of  drag 
with  small  willows  and  bark,  and  swept  the  creek.  The 
first  company  brought  318  fish,  the  second  upward  of  800,'" 
consisting  of  pike,  bass,  fish  resembling  salmon-trout,  red- 
horse,  buffalo-fish,  rock-fish,  one  flat-back,  perch,  catfish,  a 
small  species  of  perch  called  on  the  Ohio  silver-fish,  a 
shrimp"  of  the  same  size,  shape,  and  flavor  of  those  about 
New  Orleans  and  the  lower  part  of  the  Mississippi.  We 
also  found  very  fat  mussels;*^  and  in  the  river  as  well  as 
(/.  ^6)  the  creek,  are  different  kinds  of  ducks  and  plovers. 
The  wind,  which  in  the  morning  had  been  from  the  north- 
west, shifted  round  in  the  evening  to  the  southeast,  and  as 
usual  we  had  a  breeze  which  cooled  the  air  and  relieved  us 
from  the  mosquitoes,  which  generally  give  us  great  trouble. 

August  x'jth.  The  wind  continued  from  the  southeast, 
and  the  morning  was  fair.  We  observe  about  us  a  grass 
resembling  wheat,  e.xcept  that  the  grain  is  like  rye;  also, 
some  similar  to  both  rye  and  barley,  and  a  kind  of  timothy, 
the  seed  of  which  branches  from  the  main  stock,  and  is 
more  like  a  flaxseed  than  a  timothy.     In  the  evening  one 

^'  As  to  the  operations  of  the  bciver,  Clark  wrote  that  the  crij'.k  was  darned 
by  them,  and  the  liiddle  text  makes  it  damned  by  them  ;  I  alter  as  above. 

'"  It  appears  by  comparing  (iass  at  Aug.  15th  that  the  veracity  of  our  authors 
almost  extends  to  reporting  (ish  caught.  We  here  have  318 -f- 800  =r  l.iiS  ; 
Gass  says  387  +  709  =  1,096.  Clark's  MS.  names  the  camp  of  Aug.  I3th-I9th 
Fishing  Camp.  I  desired  to  identify  to-day's  catch,  as  doubtless  among  these 
fishes  v.-ere  species  which  were  then  new  to  science.  lUit  after  dragging  the 
codices  patiently  I  got  only  a  water-haul,  and  any  identifications  I  could  make 
on  the  strength  of  the  bare  names  would  be  e.\ post  facto,  so  to  speak,  or  merely 
based  on  our  present  knowledge  of  Missouri  ichthyology. 

*'  Not  shrimp  properly  so-called,  which  are  marine  crustaceans,  but  a  kind  of 
crawfish  common  in  the  Missouri,  of  the  genus  Co.mbartis. 

■"  Some  species  of  fresh-water  bivalve  mollusks  of  the  family  UfiioniJa.  Clark 
wrote  mustles  ;  liiddle  printed  muscles,  and  I  alter  as  above. 


^w 


DESERTLk   AI'I'REHENDED— ARRIVAL  OF   INDIANS,      yy 

of  the  party  sent  to  tlie  Ottoes  returned  with  the  informa- 
tion that  the  rest  were  coming  on  with  the  deserter;  they 
had  also  caught  Libert<:',  but  by  a  trick  he  had  made  his 
escape;  they  were  bringing  tluee  of  the  chiefs  in  order  to 
engage  our  assistance  in  making  peace  with  the  Mahas. 
Tliis  nation  having  left  their  village,  that  desirable  purpose 
cannot  be  effected;  but  in  order  to  bring  in  any  neigh- 
boring tribes,  we  set  the  surrounding  prairies  on  fire.  This 
is  the  customary  signal  made  by  traders  to  apprise  the 
Indians  of  their  arrival ;  it  is  also  used  between  different 
nations  as  an  indication  of  any  event  which  they  have  pre- 
viously agreed  to  announce  in  that  way,  and  as  soon  as  it  is 
seen  collects  the  neighboring  tribes,  unless  they  apprehend 
that  it  is  made  by  their  enemies. 

August  i%th.  In  the  afternoon  the  party  arrived  with  the 
Indians,  consisting  of  Little  Thief  and  Big  Horse,  whom 
we  had  seen  on  the  3d,  together  with  six  other  chiefs  and  a 
French  interpreter.*'  We  met  them  under  a  shade,  and 
after  they  had  finished  a  repast  with  which  we  supplied 
them,  we  inquired  into  the  origin  of  the  war  between  them 
and  the  Mahas,  which  they  related  with  great  frankness. 
It  seems  that  two  of  the  Missouris  went  to  the  Mahas  to 
steal  horses,  but  were  detected  and  killed;  the  Ottoes  and 
Missouris  thought  themselves  bound  to  avenge  their  com- 
panions, and  the  whole  nations  were  at  last  obli- (/.  ./7)  gcd 
to  share  in  the  dispute.  They  are  also  in  fear  of  a  war 
from  the  Pawnees,  whose  village  they  entered  this  summer, 
while  the  inhabitants  were  hunting,  and  stole  their  corn. 

"  Under  this  date  Gass  prints,  p.  29  ;  "The  party  who  had  been  sent  in  pur- 
suit of  the  man  who  h.-id  been  absent  since  the  4lh,  returned  with  him  and  eight 
Indi.ins  and  a  Frenchman,  but  left  our  Frenchman  fl.iberti)  behind,  who  li.id 
Rone  to  iiunt  the  horses."  Clark's  journal  of  the  aSth  finishes  the  story  of  the 
deserter:  "  Proceeded  to  the  trial  of  Reed,  he  confessed  that  he  '  Deserted  & 
Stold  a  public  Ritle  shot-pouch  Powder  &  I?all  '  and  requested  we  wduld  be  as 
favourable  with  him  as  we  could  consistantly  with  our  Oathes— which  we  were 
and  only  sentenced  him  to  run  the  gantlet  four  times  through  the  Party  \:  that 
each  man  with  9  switchies  should  punish  hira  and  for  him  not  to  be  considered 
in  future  as  one  of  the  Party — " 


i 


11 


ill 


ilN 


J 


r 


79 


COUNCIL   WITH   INDIANS. 


''I 


!| 


?        I 


This  ingenuous  confession  did  not  make  us  the  less  desirous 
of  negotiating  a  peace  for  them;  but  no  Indians  liave  as 
yet  been  attracted  by  our  fire.  The  evening  was  closed  by 
a  dance  ;  and  the  next  day, 

August  igt/i,  the  chiefs  and  warriors  being  assembled  at 
ten  o'clock,  we  explained  the  speech  we  had  already  sent 
from  the  Cuuncil-blufTs,  and  renewed  our  advice.  They  all 
replied  in  turn,  and  the  presents  were  then  distributed  ;  we 
exchanged  the  small  medal  we  had  formerly  given  tu  Hig 
Horse  for  one  of  the  sanie  size  with  that  of  Little  Thief ; 
we  also  gave  a  small  medal  to  a  third  chief,  and  a  kind  of 
certificate  or  letter  of  acknowledgment  to  five  of  the  war- 
riors, expressive  of  our  favor  and  their  good  intentions. 
One  of  them,  dissatisfied,  returned  us  the  certificate;  but 
the  chief,  fearful  of  our  being  offended,  begged  that  it  might 
be  restored  to  him  ;  this  we  declined,  and  rebuked  them 
severely  for  having  in  view  mere  traffic  instead  of  peace 
with  their  neighbors.  This  displeased  them  at  first  ;  but 
they  at  length  all  petitioned  that  it  should  be  given  to  the 
warrior,  who  then  came  forward  and  made  an  apology  to 
us;  we  then  delivered  it  to  the  chief  to  be  given  to  the 
most  worthy,  and  he  bestowed  it  on  the  same  warrior, 
whose  name  was  Great  Blue  Eyes.  After  a  more  substan- 
tial present  of  small  articles  and  tobacco,  the  council  was 
ended  with  a  dram  to  the  Indians.  In  the  evening  we 
exhibited  different  objects  of  curiosity,  and  particularly 
the  air-gun,  which  gave  them  great  surprise.  These  people 
are  almost  naked,  having  no  covering  except  a  sort  of 
breech-cloth  round  the  middle,  with  a  loose  blanket  or 
buffalo  robe  painted,  thrown  over  them.  The  names  of 
these  warriors,  besides  those  already  mentioned,  were 
Karkapaha  or  Crow's  Head,  and  Nenasawa  or  Black  Cat, 
Missouris  ;  Sananona  or  Iron  Eyes,  Neswaunja  or  Big  Ox, 
Stageaunja  or  Big  Blue  Eyes,  and  Wa-  {/>.  4.S)  sashaco 
or  Brave  Man,  all  Ottoes.  These  two  tribes  speak  very 
nearly  the  same  language ;  they  all  begged  us  to  give 
them  whisky. 


SliUUEANT   FLOYD'S    DEATH— FLOYO's    F<IVK1<. 


79 


August  20///.  Tlie  Indiiius  mounted  their  horses  and  left 
us,  having  received  a  canister  of  whisky  at  parting.  We 
then  set  sail,  and  after  passing  two  islands  on  the  north, 
came-to  on  that  side  under  some  bluffs,  the  first  near  the 
river  since  we  left  the  Ayauwa  village. 

Here  we  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  one  of  our  sergeants, 
Charles  Floyd.  He  was  yesterday  seized  with  a  bilious 
colic,  and  all  our  care  and  attention  were  ineffectual  to 
relieve  him.  A  little  before  his  death  he  said  to  Captain 
Clark,  "  I  am  going  to  leave  you  ;  "  his  strength  failed 
him  as  he  added,  "  I  want  you  to  write  mo  a  letter."  He 
died  with  a  composure  which  justified  the  high  opinion  we 
had  formed  of  liis  firmness  and  good  conduct.  He  was 
buried  on  the  top  of  the  bluff  with  the  honors  due  to  a 
brave  soldier;  the  place  of  his  interment  was  marked  by  a 
cedar  post,  on  which  his  name  and  the  day  of  his  death 
were  inscribed.  About  a  mile  beyond  this  place,  to  which 
we  gave  his  name,  is  a  small  river  about  30  yards  wide, 
on   the   north,  which  we   called  Floyd's"  river,  where  we 


11  I 


**  It  may  be  interesting  to  reproduce  the  above  paragraph  from  the  original 
manuscript  of  Claili's  journal,  at  dates  of  Aug.  tgth  and  20th.  It  is  precisely 
as  follows  :  "  Serjeant  Floyd  is  taken  verry  bad  all  at  once  with  a  liiliose  Chor- 
liclc  we  attempt  to  reliev  him  without  success  as  yet,  he  gets  worse  and  we  are 
much  allarmcd  at  his  situation,  all  attention  to  him  .  .  .  Sergeant  Floyd  much 
weaker  .ind  no  better  ...  as  bad  as  he  can  be  no  pulse  and  nothing  will  stay 
a  moment  on  his  stomach  or  bowels.  .  .  Died  with  a  great  deel  of  composure, 
before  his  death  he  said  to  me  '  I  am  going  away  I   want  you  to  write  me  a 

letter  ' We  buried  him  on  the  top  of  the  bluff  ^  mile  below  a  small  river  to 

which  we  gave  his  name,  he  was  buried  with  the  Honors  of  War  much  lamented, 
a  seeder  post  with  the  Name   Sergt.  C.  t'loyd  died  here  20th  of  August  1804 

was  fixed  at  the  head  of  his  grave This  man  at  all  times  gave  us  proofs  of  his 

firmness  and  Determined  resolution  to  doe  service  to  his  countrey  and  honor  to 
himself  aftes  paying  all  the  honor  to  our  Decesed  brother  we  camped  in  the 
mouth  o\  Jioyds  river  about  30  yards  wide,  a  butifull  evening." 

Floyd's  river,  first  so  charted  on  Lewis'  map  of  1806,  still  bears  his  name  ;  the 
bluff  is  still  F'loyd's,  and  his  grave  is  marked  on  Clark's  map  of  1814.  Like 
Blackbird's,  it  was  for  many  years  a  landmark.  It  shows  plainly  on  Nicollet's 
map  of  1843,  and  this  author,  writing  of  1839,  says  :  "  We  stopped  before  night 
at  the  foot  of  the  bluff  on  which  is  Floyd's  grave  ;  my  men  replaced  the  signal, 
blown  down  by  the  winds,  which  marks  the  spot  and  hallows  the  memory  of  the 


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80 


THE  GREAT  SIOUX   RIVER. 


camped.  We  had  a  breeze  from  the  southeast,  and  made 
13  miles. 

August  2ist.  Tlie  same  breeze  from  the  southeast  car- 
ried us  by  a  small  willow  creek  "  on  the  north,  about  l^ 
miles  above  Floyd's  river.  Here  began  a  range  of  bluffs 
which  continued  till  near  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Sioux 
river,  three  miles  beyond  Floyd's.  This  river  comes  in  from 
the  north,  and  is  about  lio  yards  wide.  Mr.  Durion,  our 
Sioux  interpreter,  who  is  well  acquainted  with  it,  says  that 
it  is  navigable  upward  of  200  miles  to  the  falls,  and  even 
beyond  them ;  that  its  sources  are  near  those  of  the  St. 
Peter's  [Minnesota  river].  He  also  says  that  below  the  falls 
a  creek  falls  in  from  the  eastward,  after  passing  through 
cliffs  of  red  rock;  of  this  the  Indians  make  their  pipes,  and 
the  necessity  of  procuring  that  article  has  intro-  [p.  ^p) 
duced  a  sort  of  law  of  nations,  by  which  the  banks  of  the 
creek  are  sacred  ;  even  tribes  at  war  meet  without  hostility 
at  these  quarries,  which  possess  a  right  of  asylum.  Thus 
we  find  even  among  savages  certain  principles  deemed 
sacred,  by  which  the  rigors  of  their  merciless  system  of 
warfare  are  mitigated.  A  sense  of  common  danger,  where 
stronger  ties  are  wanting,  gives  all  the  binding  force  of 
more  solemn  obligations.  The  importance  of  preserving 
the  known  and  settled  rules  of  warfare  among  civilized  na- 
tions, in  all  their  integrity,  becomes  strikingly  evident ;  since 
even  savages,  with  their  few  precarious  wants,  cannot  exist 
in  a  state  of  peace  or  war  where  this  faith  is  once  violated." 

brave  sergeant  who  died  here  during  Lewis  and  Clark's  expedition"  (Report, 
p.  34).  Another  point  ol  the  same  bluff,  a  little  lower  down,  is  now  called 
Sergeant's  bluff.  The  river  with  its  tributaries  drains  several  northwestern 
counties  of  Iowa,  and  falls  into  the  Missouri  a  little  below  Sioux  City,  lat. 
approximately  42''  30'  N.,  and  a  little  above  the  Sooth  mile  point.  On  the 
much  reduced  map  of  the  M'Vickar  edition  (1842),  the  name  is  printed 
"Castus  " — a  word  I  have  not  found  elsewhere. 

■"  Now  Perry  creek.  The  range  of  bluffs  .ibout  to  be  mentioned  is  now  called 
Prospect  hill.     Here  is  the  site  of  Sioux  City,  la. 

'"  The  I!ig  Sioux  river  is  to-day  not  less  geographically  notable  than  was  it 
formerly  of  ethnographic  consequence.  At  its  mouth  is  the  southeast  corner 
of  South  Dakota,  meeting  here  both  Nebraska  and  Iowa.     Here  the  Missouri 


flTSrr.- 


MINERAL  BLUFFS— ROLOGE  CREEK. 


8l 


The  wind  became  southerly,  and  blew  with  such  violence 
that  we  took  a  reef  in  our  sail ;  it  also  blew  the  sand  from 
the   bars   in   such  quantities  that  we  could  not    see   the 
channel  at  any  distance  ahead.     At  414:  miles  we  came  to 
two  willow-islands,  beyond   which   are   several   sand-bars  • 
and  at  twelve  miles,  to  a  spot  where  the  Mahas  once  had  a 
village,  no  longer  existing.     We  again  passed  a  number  of 
sand-bars  and  camped  on  the  south,  having  come  24^  miles 
The  country  through  wliich  we  passed  has  the  same  uniform 
appearance  ever  since  we  left  the  Platte-rich,  low  grounus 
near  the  river,  succeeded   by  undulating  prairies,  with  tim- 
ber near  the  waters.     Some  wolves  were  seen  to-day  on  the 
sand-beaches  to  the  south  ;  we  also  procured  an  excellent 
fruit,  resembling  a  red  currant,  growing  on  a  shrub  like  the 
privy  [privet],  and  about  the  height  of  a  wild  plum. 

August  22d.  About  three  miles'  distance,  we  joined  the 
men  who  had  been  sent  from  the  Maha  village  with  our 
horses,  and  who  brought  us  two  deer.  The  bluffs  [else 
where  called  Mineral  bluffs -]  or  hills  which  reach  the  river 
at  this  place,  on  the  south,  contain  alum,  copperas,  cobalt 
which  had  the  appearance  of  soft  isinglass,  pyrites  and 
sandstone,  the  two  first  very  pure.  Above  this  bluff  comes  in 
a  small  creek  on  the  south,  which  we  call  Rologe  \sic  "]  creek, 

ceases  to  separate  Nebraska  from  Iowa,  and  begins  to  separate  Nebraska  from 
South  Dakota.  The  S.oux  river  itself  forms  the  whole  of  the  boundary 
between  Iowa  and  South  D.kota.  from  lat.  42'  30  to  43»  3o'.  It  was  also 
called  Tchankasndata  nver  (so  on  Nicollet's  map.  1843)  :  the  name  is  said  to 
mean  that  the  nver  is  continuously  wooded.  The  upper  part  was  also  distin- 
gu.shed  as  the  Watpa-.pak-shan  or  crooked  river,  and  by  the  French  as  la 
nvi^re  Croche.  or,  as  we  should  say.  Crotchet  river.     Some  sources  of  the  Sioux 

'T^  V  °^  ""'  ^°"'"  ^''  P'^'"'"'  ^^«  "°'  '""^^  'han  a  mile  from  those 

of  the  Mmnesota  or  St.  Peter's  river. 

''  Tl'«  b'^ff"  along  the  river  here  and  higher  up,  called  Mineral  bluffs  by  Lewis 
and  Clark,  are  named  by  Nicollet  Dixon's  bluffs,  after  William  Dixon,  a  tr.-,der 
The  rocks  composing  this  series  of  bluffs  are  geologically  considered  by  Nicollet 
under  the  name  of  Dixon's  group,  in  which  he  establishes  three  divisions  in 
ascendmg  order;  A,  argillaceous  limestone  ;  B.  calcareous  marl ;  C,  a  slightly 
Mi'ss^ri  ••'  "  '^'"'  ^'"""^  '"  '*"  ''*"'  °^  '^'  cretaceous  formations  of  the 

*'  No  clew  to  this  name.     Clark's  MS.  has  :  "  This  creek  I  call  Roloje  [very 


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•!ii! 


82 


SICKNESS   IN   THE   PARTY. 


Seven  miles  above  is  another  cliff,  on  the  {p.  50)  same  side, 
of  alum  rock  of  a  dark  brown  color,  containing  in  its  crev- 
ices great  quantities  of  cobalt,  cemented  shells,  and  red 
earth."  From  this  the  river  bends  eastward,  and  ap- 
proaches the  [Great]  Sioux  river  within  three  or  four  miles. 
We  sailed  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  and  made  19  miles 
to  our  camp  on  the  north  side  [near  Elk  Point,  Union 
Co.,  S.  D.]. 

The  sand-bars  are  as  usual  numerous  ;  there  are  also  con- 
siderable traces  of  elk,  but  none  are  yet  seen.  Captain 
Lewis,  in  proving  the  quality  of  some  of  the  substances  in 
the  first  cliff,  was  considerably  injured  by  the  fumes  and 
taste  of  the  cobalt,  and  took  some  strong  medicine  to  relieve 
him  from  its  effects.  The  appearance  of  these  mineral  sub- 
stances enabled  us  to  account  for  disorders  of  the  stomach 
with  which  the  party  had  been  affected  since  they  left  the 
river  Sioux.  We  had  been  in  the  habit  of  dipping  up  the 
water  of  the  river  inadvertently  and  making  use  of  it  till, 
on  examination,  the  sickness  was  thought  to  proceed  from 
a  scum  covering  the  surface  of  the  water  along  the  southern 
shore,  but  which,  as  we  now  discovered,  proceeded  from  these 

plainly  written]  a  name  I  learned  last  night  is  " — then  the  copy  is  blind,  with 
something  like  an  m,  a  blank  space,  and  then  a  plain  s.  There  was  a  person  of 
the  American  Fur  Company  named  Rolette  (so  Lone),  or  Rollet  (so  Pike). 
This  stream  is  Ayoway  creek  of  Nicollet's  map,  and  now  Iowa  creek  (misprinted 
Norway  creek  on  the  G.  L.  O.  map,  1876),  in  Dixon  Co.,  Neb.,  just  above  the 
830th  mile  point  of  the  Missouri. 

■"  The  appearances  indicate  the  very  great  and  remarkable  change  in  the  geo- 
logical formation  of  the  country  upon  which  the  expedition  has  now  entered. 
Hitherto  it  has  been  palaeozoic,  and  for  the  most  part  Silurian  and  permocar- 
boniferous,  especially  the  latter,  which  occupies  northern  and  western  Missouri, 
southern  Iowa,  eastern  Kansas,  and  a  small  southeastern  corner  of  Nebraska 
above  and  below  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  river.  Where  the  permo-carbonifer- 
ous  ends  on  the  Missouri,  above  Council  Bluffs,  Iowa  is  quaternary  to  the  river, 
and  Nebraska  is  cretaceous.  At  the  mouth  of  Great  Sioux  river,  at  the  extreme 
southeast  corner  of  South  Dakota,  the  Expedition  has  entered  upon  that  vast 
extent  of  the  cretaceous  formation  which  the  Missouri  traverses  in  South  and 
North  Dakota  and  Montana,  without  a  break  to  the  head  of  navigation  of 
the  river,  .\linost  all  of  both  Dakotas,  and  the  greater  part  of  Montana,  are 
in  fact  cretaceous. 


SERGEANT  GASS— BUFFALO   PRAIRIE. 


83 


fast 


bluffs.  The  men  had  been  ordered,  before  we  reached  the 
bluffs,  to  agitate  the  water,  so  as  to  disperse  the  scum,  and 
take  the  water,  not  at  the  surface,  but  at  some  depth.  The 
consequence  was,  that  these  disorders  ceased  ;  the  boils  too 
which  had  afflicted  the  men  were  not  observed  beyond  the 
Sioux  river. 

In  order  to  supply  the  place  of  Sergeant  Floyd,  we  per- 
mitted the  men  to  name  three  persons  [Gass,  Bratton,  and 
Gibson]  ;  and  Patrick  Gass,  having  the  greatest  number  of 
votes,  was  made  a  sergeant." 

August  27,d.  We  set  out  early, and  at  four  miles  came  to 
a  small  run  between  cliffs  of  yellow  and  blue  earth.  The 
wind,  however,  soon  changed  and  blew  so  hard  from  the 
west  that  we  proceeded  very  slowly ;  the  fine  sand  from 
the  bar  being  driven  in  such  clouds  that  we  could  scarcely 
see.  At  35^  miles  beyond  this  run  we  came  to  a  villow- 
island  and  a  sand-island  opposite,  and  camped  on  the  south 
side,  at  10}^  miles.  On  the  north  side  is  an  extensive  and 
delightful  prairie,  which  we  called  Buffalo  {p.  ji)  prairie, 
from  our  having  here  killed  the  first  buffalo."  Two  elk 
swam  the  river  to-day  and  were  fired  at,  but  escaped  ;  a  deer 
was  killed  from  the  boat ;  one  beaver  was  killed,  and  several 
prairie-wolves  were  seen. 

August  2^th.  It  began  to  rain  last  night  and  continued 
this  morning;  we  proceeded,  however,  2^  miles,  to  the 
commencement  of  a  bluff  of  blue  clay,  about  180  or  190 
feet,  on  the  south  side  :  it  seems  to  have  been  lately  on 
fire,  and  even  now  the  ground  is  so  warm  that  we  cannot 
keep  our  hands  in  it  at  any  depth ;  there  are  strong  appear- 
ances  of  coal,  and    also    great    quantities  of   cobalt,  or  a 

'"  His  promotion  is  not  mentioned  in  the  journal  of  the  modest  Irishman. 
Clark  wrote  ;  ' '  Ordered  a  vote  for  a  Serjeant  to  chuse  one  of  three  .  .  . 
P.  Gass  had  19  votes." 

"  Killed  by  Captain  Clark  and  one  of  the  men  ;  two  barrels  of  the  meat  salted, 
Gass,  p.  30.  But  Clark  himself  credits  the  first  buffalo  to  Joseph  Fields  alone. 
The  extensive  prairies  above  noted  are  the  Hutan  Kutey  prairies  of  Nicollet. 
They  recall  the  famous  "American  bottom"  along  the  Mississippi  below  St. 
Louis.     To-day's  car.ip  is  in  Di.\on  Co.,  Neb. 


1! 

f 


fr 


1       I 


i^i  I 


84 


WHITESTONE   OR  VERMILION   RIVER. 


crystallized  substance  resembling  it."  There  is  a  fruit  now 
ripe  which  looks  like  a  red  currant,  except  that  it  is  double 
the  size,  and  grows  on  a  bush  about  ten  feet  high,  like  a 
privy  [privet,"  Ligiistriim  vulgare\,  the  size  of  a  damson 
and  of  a  delicious  flavor ;  its  Indian  name  means  rabbit- 
berries.  We  then  passed,  at  the  distance  of  about  seven 
miles,  the  mouth  of  a  creek  on  the  north  side,  called  by  an 
Indian  name  meaning  Whitestone  river."*  The  beautiful 
prairie  of  yes*.;.  Jay  has  changed  into  one  of  greater 
height,  very  smooth  and  extensive.  We  camped  on  the 
south  side  [in  Dixon  Co.,  Neb.],  at  lo^  miles,  and  found 
ourselves  much  annoyed  by  the  mosquitoes.  (/».  52) 

"  This  locality  is  called  in  the  Summary  Statement  Hot  or  Burning  Bluffs. 
The  formation  of  these  bluffs,  and  the  attendant  phenomena  su);gestive  of 
volcanic  action,  were  very  early  the  subjects  of  observation  and  speculation. 
They  may  be  compared  with  similar  places  in  various  parts  of  the  world  known 
by  the  French  as  terrains  ardens.  Those  on  the  Missouri  were  called  by  the 
voyageurs  cotes  brulees  and  collines  brulees — burnt  bluffs, burnt  hills.  They  were 
formally  styled  pseudo-volcanoes  by  Nicollet  in  1843,  who  also  called  attention 
in  this  connection  to  the  peculiar  light,  spongy  stone  which  Lewis  and  Clark 
repeatedly  speak  of  as  pumice,  but  which  h<>  i.ames  pumiciform  stone,  as  not 
being  true  pumice,  but  resembling  it.  '*.e  found  no  hills  smokinr  when  he 
ascended  in  1 831),  nor  did  Lewis  and  Clark  ;  but  w.is  credibly  informe.l  that  such 
an  occurrence  had  been  witnessed  in  the  interim.     See  his  Report,  p.  39  et  seq. 

"  The  privet  is  European,  nowhere  native  in  North  America.  The  plant 
meant  is  the  buffalo-berry,  or  beefsuet-tree  (F.  graisse  de  boeuf),  Shepherdia 
oTi^ientta,  an  elsagnaceous  shrub  abounding  in  and  highly  characteristic  of  the 
region  the  Expedition  now  enters. 

"  This  Indian  name  is  Wassisha,  Wassesha,  Wassecha,  etc.,  to  be  found  on 
various  old  maps.  The  usual  translation.  While-earth,  or  White-stone,  would 
be  better  Smoky-earth.  The  French  name  of  Perrin  du  Lac  is  riviere  A  Loutre 
(Otter  river).  The  river  is  laid  down,  but  unlettered,  on  Lewis'  map  of  1806, 
where  it  may  be  identified  by  the  mound  inscribed  Hill  of  Little  Devils  (see 
next  chapter).  It  is  lettered  White  Stone  R.  on  Clark's  map,  1814.  This  is 
now  called  Vermilion  or  Vermillion  river.  It  reaches  the  Missouri  through 
Clay  Co.,  S.  D.,  and  the  county  town  of  Vermilion  is  at  its  mouth.  It  is  a 
short  river,  some  60  miles  long,  issuing  from  some  prairie  lakes  which  used  to 
be  called  by  the  French  les  lacs  au  Bois  leger,  or  Lightwood  lakes.  The 
Buffalo  prairie  of  Lewis  and  Clark  ends  at  this  river. 


CHAPTER  III. 
THE  „,SSOUK,   FROM   VEKMruON  TO  TETO.  R.VER. 

Spirit    mound,    and    ImHIt.     . 

mmmmM 

creek-Ponc.1  nv<:r-P„„ca  village-iVairie  TJ  m  ^  "ver-Pa„nec  island-Goat 
Cc  ar  i.,a„d-Retun,  of  ,;eor«e  Shan, L H,"  t^r:"'''""'"""  ''°""-«-'  '^'-^1 
ml  rp""'  '■■^•^"'-"^'Sg^'ge  ^hif.eJ-Oak  L  1  ""  ''"""'  °'  ""J-'-"- White 
ma  s     P        e,,  ,,,„j^,,,,^.  ,,^^^^  Sioux  rivers     K^l"  -"-Antelope  and  other  ani! 

H.       t„.ee._Cood.h._di.a„d-Th:l^^-^--.-"«  -- 

^^'^^''^^^seJ^:::::,/::^^'^   -'  ^'-^.  W.H  ten 

to  the  mouth  of  Whitestone  rk^'  k  ^  '^''^PP*^'^  ^«^" 
-Here  they  left  the  boat  "  d  TZ^r  ''  ""'''  '''''' 
ascended  a  risine  -ro„nH   /  .      distance  of  200  yards 

^-  as  the  eye"fo:rdt  r  I  t'^' ^  t'"  ^"^"^^^  ^ 

theycrossed  the  creek  tre^iU-s  ";'"•?  '*^"''  '"''^«' 

an  extensive  valley      THp  I,.  .      "^  ^  '"'"^^  ^"^  ^^ters 

were  obhged  to  send  bid  T  7^'  '"^  ^PPressive  that  we 
""able  t,;bear  the  fat':  e  ^nd  -f  '°  ''"  "^^'''  '^^  ^^  -- 
liours'  march  that  we  rl'lrh;  ,  h        u"""'  "°'  ''"  after  four 

;vas  a  large  mound  •;:'';'.•  ^^^^.f'  f  ^"^  ^"^'^-  ^'"'^ 
W.  from  the  mouth  of  WhT/    .  P'""'  "^°"*  N.  20° 

"■•ne  miles  distant!  The^  ^07^'  '"'"  ^^^"'^'^  '^  '^ 
P--a"elogram.  the  longest  side  b"'  "'T"'  ''  '  ^^^"'''''■ 
ti.e  shorter  60  or  70  •    from  thl   ,  "^    '^""'   300  yards. 

«teep  ascent  from  the  no  ,  ^  "^'•''  '"^'  ''  "'''  ^'t'^  a 
o.-  ;o  feet,  leaving  '^  ^^'iTt  T!'  ?  '"  ^"'^^''^  ^^  ^^ 
breadth  and  90  in  leneth      TI  f  P'""  °^  ^^  ^^^^ '" 

ties  are  conne^e    H  f     "        .^l"?''  '"^"^  ^""^'^  ^^tremi- 
ecter,  ..,  two  oval  borders  which  serve  as  new 


i,!^ 


n 


86 


SPIRIT  MOUND,  AND   INDIAN   SUPERSTITIONS. 


( 


bases,  and  divide  the  whole  side  into  three  steep  but 
regular  gradations  from  the  plain.  The  only  thing  char- 
acteristic in  this  hill  is  its  extreme  symmetry,  and  this, 
together  with  its  being  totally  detached  from  (/.  jj)  the 
other  hills  which  are  at  the  distance  of  eight  or  nine  miles, 
would  induce  a  belief  that  it  was  artificial ;  but  as  the  earth 
and  the  loose  pebbles  which  compose  it  are  arranged  ex- 
actly like  the  steep  grounds  on  the  borders  of  the  creek,  we 
concluded  from  this  similarity  of  texture  that  it  might  be 
natural.  The  Indians  have  made  it  a  great  article  of  their 
superstition  ;  it  is  called  the  mountain  of  Little  People,  or 
Little  Spirits,"  and  they  believe  that  it  is  the  abode  of 
little  devils  in  the  human  form,  about  l8  inches  high  and 
with  remarkably  large  heads,  armed  with  sharp  arrows, 
with  which  they  are  very  skillful,  and  always  on  the  watch 
to  kill  those  who  should  have  the  hardihood  to  approach 
their  residence.  The  tradition  is  that  many  have  suffered 
from  these  little  evil  spirits;  among  others,  three  Maha 
Indians  fell  a  sacrifice  to  them  a  few  years  since.  This 
has  inspired  all  the  neighboring  nations,  Sioux,  Mahas,  and 
Ottoes,  with  such  terror  that  no  consideration  could  tempt 
them  to  visit  the  hill.  We  saw  none  of  these  wicked  little 
spirits ;  nor  any  place  for  them,  except  some  small  holes 
scattered  over  the  top;  we  were  happy  enough  to  escape 
their  vengeance,  though  we  remained  some  time  on  the 

'  Marked  on  Lewis'  map  of  1806  as  the  Hill  of  Little  Devils  ;  on  Clark's 
map  of  1814  charted,  but  unnamed.  The  tradition  has  outlived  the  superstition 
to  which  it  owes  its  origin,  and  survives  in  the  name  Spirit  mound,  still 
applied  by  settlers,  and  appearing  on  modern  maps.  This  elevation  is  situated 
in  Clay  Co.,  S.  D.,  in  section  14,  town  93,  range  52  ;  it  extends  nearly  north 
and  south,  being  about  1000  feet  long,  350  feet  wide  at  the  base,  and  95  to  115 
feet  high,  though  of  anything  but  symmetrical  figure.  The  highest  point 
is  marked  by  an  iron  tube,  indicating  a  slat  inn  of  the  Missouri  River  Survey. 
The  body  of  the  hill  is  ch.ilkslone  of  the  cretaceous  group,  to  within  30  feet  or 
less  of  the  top,  covered  with  yellow  clay,  and  this  with  gravelly  loam.  A  .'.nv 
miles  to  the  N.W.  is  a  bluff,  some  30  to  50  feet  higher  than  this  hillock,  prob- 
ably at  one  time  continuous  with  the  latter,  the  intervening  space  being  due  to 
erosion.  (T.  H.  Lewis'  paper  on  pseudo-antiquities  of  the  Missouri,  in  the 
Amer.  Antiq.  and  Orient.  Journ.,  xiii.  No.  5,  Sept.  1891,  p.  289.) 


^mmsirm-. 


still 
ktcl 
jrth 

115 

oint 

vey. 
■t  or 
f.w 
rol)- 
e  to 
the 


BUFFALOES,   BIRDS,  AND  PLANTS. 


8; 


mound  to  enjoy  the  delightful  prospect  of  the  plain,  which 
spreads  itself  out  till  the  eye  rests  upon  the  N.VV.  hills  at 
a  great  distance,  and  those  of  the  N.E.  still  farther  off, 
enlivened  by  large  herds  of  buffalo  feeding  at  a  distance. 

The  soil  of  these  plains  is  exceedingly  fine  ;  there  is, 
however,  no  timber  except  on  the  Missouri,  all  the  wood 
of  the  Whitestone  river  not  being  sufficient  to  cover 
thickly  100  acres.  The  plain  country  which  surrounds 
this  mound  has  contributed  not  a  little  to  its  bad  repu- 
tation ;  the  wind  driving  from  every  direction  over  the 
level  ground  obliges  the  insects  to  seek  shelter  on  its  lee- 
ward side,  or  to  be  driven  against  us  by  the  wind.  The 
small  birds,  whose  food  they  are,  resort  of  course  in  great 
numbers  in  quest  of  subsistence ;  and  the  Indians  always 
seem  to  discover  an  unusual  assemblage  of  birds  as  pro- 
duced by  some  supernatural  (/.  5^)  cause.  Among  them 
we  observed  the  brown  martin  employed  in  looking  for 
insects,  and  so  gentle  that  they  did  not  fly  until  we  got 
within  a  few  feet  of  them.  We  have  also  distinguished, 
among  the  numerous  birds  of  the  plain,  the  blackbird, 
the  wren  or  prairie-bird,  and  a  species  of  lark  about  the 
size  of  a  partridge,  with  a  short  tail."  The  excessive  heat 
and  thirst  forced  us  from  the  hill  about  one  o'clock,  to 
the  nearest  water,  which  we  found  in  the  creek  at  three 
miles'  distance,  and  remained  an  hour  and  a  half.  We  then 
went  down  the  creek,  through  a  lowland  about  one  mile  in 
width,  and  crossed  it  three  times,  to  the  spot  where  we 
first  reached  it  in  the  morning.  Here  we  gathered  some 
delicious  plums,  grapes,  and  blue  currants,  and  afterward 
arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  about  sunset.  To  this 
place  the  course  from  the  mound  is  S.  20  miles,  E.  9 
miles ;  we  there  resumed  our  periogue,  and  on  reaching 
our  camp  of  last  night  set  the  prairies  on  fire,  to  warn 
the  Sioux  of  our  approach.  In  the  mean  time,  the  boat 
under   Sergeant    Pryor   had    proceeded    in    the    afternoon 

'  None  of  these  birds  is  certainly  identifiable  (though  all  are  of  course  now  well- 
known),  except  the  lark,  which  is  the  Western  field-lark,  Stiiriieila  tiegkcta. 


% 


i 


w 


'I 


88 


PETIT  ARC   OR   LITTLE   BOW   CREEK. 


'I   I 


li 


Mfi 


one  mile,  to  a  bluff  of  blue  clay  on  the  south,  and  after 
passing  a  sand-bar  and  two  sand-islands  [his  menj  fixed 
their  camp  at  the  distance  of  six  miles  on  the  south.  In 
the  evening  some  rain  fell.  We  had  killed  a  duck  and  sev- 
eral birds  ;  in  the  boat  they  had  caught  some  large  catfish.' 
August  26th.  We  rejoined  the  boat  at  nine  o'clock  before 
she  set  out ;  and,  then  passing  by  an  island  and  under  a  cliff 
on  the  south,  nearly  two  miles  in  extent  and  composed  of 
white  and  blue  earth,  camped  at  nine  miles'  distance,  on  a 
sand-bar  toward  the  north.  Opposite  to  this,  on  the  south, 
is  a  small  creek  called  Petit  Arc*  or  Little  Bow  ;  and  a  short 
distance  above  it,  an  old  village  of  the  same  name.  This  vil- 
lage, of  which  nothing  remains  but  the  mound  of  earth  about 
four  feet  high  surrounding  it,  was  built  by  a  Maha  chief 
named  Little  Bow,  who  being  displeased  with  Blackbird, 
the  late  king,  seceded  with  200  followers  and  settled  at  this 
spot;  it  is  now  abandoned,  as  the  two  (/>.  jj)  villages  have 
reunited  since  the  death  of  Blackbird.  We  have  great  quan- 
tities of  grapes,  and  plums  of  three  kinds  ;  two  of  a  yellow 
color,  distinguished  by  one  of  the  species  being  longer  than 

'  Gass  says  "  nine  tliat  would  together  weigh  300  pounds."  The  species  is 
doubtless  Amiurus  pondcro$us. 

■■Gass  makes  it  Pettit  Ark.  It  has  also  been  known  by  its  Indian  name, 
Hopa-wazhupi.  This  is  the  present  Bow  creek,  Cedar  Co.,  Neb.  See  beyond, 
under  date  of  Sept.  2d,  what  is  said  of  some  supposed  fortifications  or  other 
artificial  works,  stated  to  have  been  seen  on  the  upper  side  of  Petit  Arc  creek, 
not  far  from  its  mouth.  Mr.  T.  H.  Lewis,  in  his  paper  on  the  pseudo-antiqui- 
ties of  the  Missouri  already  cited  says  (p.  290)  of  the  Little  Bow  Enclosure, 
that  there  are  "  no  traces  of  any  village  or  artificial  works  of  any  description  to 
be  found  in  this  neighborhood  above  the  mouth  of  the  Bow,  the  land  being  low 
and  subject  to  overflow.  There  are,  however,  several  natural  ridges,  similar  to 
those  on  Bonhomme  Point,  which  run  parallel  to  the  current,  when  the  water 
is  high  and  covers  the  bottom."  In  a  note  Mr.  Lewis  adds  :  "  On  adjacent 
hills  and  plateaus  there  are  isolated  ruins  of  old  dirt  lodges  similar  to  those 
constructed  by  the  Mandans.  There  is  also  an  ancient  fort  on  the  East  or 
lower  side  of  Bow  creek,  about  two  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  another  still  fur- 
ther south,  near  llartington,  but  these  two  forts  were  unknown  to  the  Lewis 
and  Clark  expedition."  liut  it  does  not  seem  impossible  that  the  explorers  may 
have  actually  had  these  works  in  view,  though  by  some  slip  they  did  not  indi- 
cate the  location  correctly. 


1 


JACQUES,   JAMES,    OR  YANKTON   RIVER. 


89 


the  other,  and  a  third  round  and  red ;  all  have  an  excellent 
flavor,  particularly  those  of  the  yellow  kind. 

August  27th.  The  morning  star  appeared  much  larger 
than  usual.  A  gentle  breeze  from  the  southeast  carried  us 
by  some  large  sand-bars,  on  both  sides  and  in  the  middle 
of  the  river,  to  a  bluff  on  the  south  side  7^  miles  distant. 
This  bluff  is  of  white  clay  or  chalk,  under  which  is  much 
stone,  like  lime,  incrusted  with  a  clear  substance,  supposed 
to  be  cobalt,  and  some  dark  ore.  Above  this  bluff  we  set 
the  prairie  on  fire  to  invite  the  Sioux,  After  12^  miles  we 
had  passed  several  other  sand-bars,  and  reached  the  mouth 
of  a  river  called  by  the  French  Jacques  (James;,  or  Yankton, 
from  the  tribe  which  inhabits  its  banks  [and  now  also 
Dakota  river].  It  is  about  90  yards  wide  at  the  confluence ; 
the  country  which  it  waters  is  rich  prairie,  with  little 
timber;  it  becomes  deeper  and  wider  above  its  mouth,  and 
may  be  navigated  a  great  distance,  as  its  sources  rise  near 
those  of  St.  Peter's  [the  Minnesota,  a  branch]  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  [those  of]  the  Red  river  of  lake  Winnipeg." 

'  The  arrangement  of  the  watersheds  in  Minnesota  and  eastern  North 
Dakota  is  peculiar.  The  Red  river  of  the  North  separates  these  States,  flowing 
due  north  ;  while  on  either  hand,  at  a  little  distance  from  this  river,  the  water- 
shed is  south — on  the  Minnesota  side,  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi;  on 
the  Dakota  side,  some  tributaries  of  the  Missouri,  James  river  is  the  first  of 
any  size  after  the  Big  Sioux,  It  rises  in  a  prairie  just  south  of  Devil's  l.Tke, 
in  Wells  and  Foster  Cos.,  N.  D. ,  and  runs  with  a  general  south  course  into 
the  Missouri,  The  lay  of  the  land  just  south  of  Devil's  lake  is  specially 
remarkable,  since  with  the  sources  of  James  river  are  also  the  heads  of  the 
principal  western  tributary  of  the  Red  river.  Some  judicious  remarks  on  the 
Coteau  des  Prairies  (also  called  Coteau  de  Missouri)  will  be  found  in  Long's 
Expedition  to  the  St.  Peter's,  Keating's  ed.,  London,  1825,  I.  pp.  376,  377,  and 
p.  380,  where  the  deflection  of  the  Missouri  from  this  ridge  is  noticed.  The 
western  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  are  so  little  separated  by  any  watershed 
from  those  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  that  it  has  been  found  actually  possi- 
ble  to  go  in  a  boat  from  the  lake  .it  the  head  of  the  St.  Peter's  or  Minnesota  to 
that  at  the  head  of  the  Red  river  ;  but  a  prairie  coteau  distinctly  separatts  the 
sources  of  James  river  from  any  waters  of  the  Red  river,  and  a  still  stronger 
coteau  separates  the  Missouri  from  any  affluent  of  the  Mouse  river,  a  tributary 
of  the  Assiniboin.  Says  the  work  just  cited  (p.  380) :  "  It  is  within  the  recol- 
lection  of  some  persons,  now  [1823]  in  the  country,  that  a  boat  once  floated 
from  Lake  Travers  into  the  St.  Peter,     Thus,  therefore,  this  spot  offers  us  one 


!  *'l 


i| 


I 


Hj 


I  ui 


90 


YANKTON  INDIANS— CALUMET  BLUFF. 


f      ! 


As  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  an  Indian  swam  to 
the  boat ;  on  our  landing  we  were  met  by  two  others,  who 
informed  us  that  a  large  body  of  Sioux  [Yanktonsj  were 
camped  near  us.  They  accompanied  three  of  our  men, 
with  an  invitation  to  meet  us  at  a  spot  above  the  river. 
The  third  Indian  remained  with  us ;  he  is  a  Maha  boy,  and 
says  that  his  nation  have  gone  to  the  Pawnees  to  make 
peace  with  them.  At  14  miles  we  camped  on  a  sand-bar  to 
the  north  [near  Yankton,  S.  D.].  The  air  was  cool,  the 
evening  pleasant,  the  wind  from  the  southeast  and  light. 
The  river  has  fallen  gradually  and  is  now  low. 

August  28///.  We  passed,  with  a  stiff  breeze  from  the 
south,  several  sand-bars.  On  the  south  is  a  prairie  which 
rises  gradually  from  the  water  to  the  height  of  a  bluff,  which 
is  at  four  miles'  distance,  of  a  whitish  color,  and  (/.  ^6) 
about  70  or  80  feet  high.  Further  on  is  another  bluff,  of  a 
brownish  color,  on  the  north  side;  and  at  the  distance  of 
8>2  miles  is  the  beginning  of  Calumet  bluff  on  the  south, 
under  which  we  formed  our  camp'  in  a  beautiful  plain,  to 
await  the  arrival  of  the  Sioux.  At  the  first  bluff  the  young 
Indian  left  us  and  joined  their  camp.  Before  reaching 
Calumet  bluff  one  of  the  periogues  ran  upon  a  log  in  the 
river  and  was  rendered  unfit  for  service,  so  that  all  our 
loading  was  put  into  the  second  periogue.  On  both  sides 
of  the  river  are  fine  prairies,  with  cottonwood;  near  the 
bluff  there  is  more  timber  in  the  points  and  valleys  than 
we  have  been  accustomed  to  see. 

of  those  interesting  phenomena,  which  we  have  already  alluded  to,  but  which 
are  nowhere  perhaps  so  apparent  as  they  are  in  this  place.  Here  we  behold  the 
waters  of  two  mighty  streams,  one  of  which  empties  itself  into  Hudson's  Bay  at 
the  57th  parallel  of  north  latitude,  and  the  other  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  in 
latitude  29",  rising  in  the  same  valley  within  three  miles  of  each  other,  and  even 
ia  some  cases  affording  a  direct  natural  navigation  from  one  into  the  other." 

*  In  Knox  Co. ,  Neb. ,  about  the  900th  river-mile  point,  and  opposite  the  lower 
one  of  two  islands  to  be  found  on  later  maps  by  the  name  of  Buffalo.  By  the 
bluff  on  the  south,  first  above  named,  flows  Beaver  creek,  not  noted  in  the  text. 
The  Calumet  bluff  of  the  text  begins  at  a  point  where  a  range  of  hills 
approaches  the  river  closely  ;  but  various  authors  extend  the  name  to  this  range 
for  several  miles  up  river. 


WORD   FROM   THE  YANKTON   SIOUX. 


91 


August  29///.  We  had  a  violent  storm  of  wind  and  rain 
last  evening,  and  were  engaged  during  the  day  in  repairing 
the  periogue  and  other  necessary  occupations.  At  four 
o'clocix  in  the  afternoon  Sergeant  Pryor  and  his  party 
arrived  on  the  opposite  side,  attended  by  five  chiefs  and 
about  70  men  and  boys.  We  sent  a  boat  for  them  and 
they  joined  us,  as  did  also  Mr.  [Pierre]  Durion,  son  of  our 
interpreter,  who  happened  to  be  trading  with  the  Sioux  at 
this  time.  He  returned  with  Sergeant  Pryor  to  the  Indians, 
with  a  present  of  tobacco,  corn,  and  a  few  kettles  ;  and  told 
them  that  we  would  speak  to  their  chiefs  in  the  morning. 
Sergeant  Pryor  reported  that  on  reaching  their  village, 
which  is  twelve  miles  distant  from  our  camp,  he  was  met  by 
a  party  with  a  buffalo-robe,  on  which  they  desired  to  carry 
their  visitors — an  honor  which  they  declined,  informing  the 
Indians  that  they  were  not  the  commanders  of  the  boats. 
As  a  great  mark  of  respect,  they  were  then  presented  with 
a  fat  dog,  already  cooked,  of  which  they  partook  heartily 
and  found  it  well  flavored.  The  camps  [lodges]  of  the 
Sioux  are  of  a  conical  form,  covered  with  buffalo-robes 
painted  with  various  figures  and  colors,  with  an  aperture  in 
the  top  for  the  smoke  to  pass  through.  The  lodges  con- 
tain from  10  to  15  persons;  the  interior  arrangement  is 
compact  and  handsome,  each  lodge  having  a  place  for 
cooking  detached  from  it.' 

(/.  57)  August  loth.  The  fog  was  so  thick  that  we  could 
not  see  the  Indian  camp  on  the  opposite  side,  but  it 
cleared  off  about  eight  o'clock.  We  prepared  a  speech  and 
some  presents,  and  then  sent  for  the  chiefs  and  warriors, 
whom  we  received,  at  twelve  o'clock,  under  a  large  oak  tree, 
near  which  the  flag  of  the  United  States  was  flying.     Cap- 

^  These  tents  or  lodges  are  more  frequently  called  by  their  Indian  name, 
tepee.  "  The  sergeant  who  had  gone  to  their  camp  informed  me  that  their 
lodges,  forty  in  number,  are  about  nine  miles  from  the  Missouri,  on  the 
Sacque  [Jacques]  river.  They  are  made  of  dressed  buffalo  and  elk  skins  painted 
red  and  white,  and  are  very  handsome.  He  said  the  women  are  homely  and 
mostly  old,  but  the  young  men  likely  and  active.  They  killed  a  dog  as  a  token 
of  friendship,"  Gass,  p.  32. 


^i 


,1. 


V'. 

Hi 


i 


92 


COUNCIL  HEl.lt   WITH   THE   YANKTONS. 


'  '.' 


tain  Lewis  delivered  a  speech,  with  the  usual  advice  and 
counsel  for  their  future  condi  VVc  acknowledged  their 

chiefs,  by  giving  to  the  granu  .1  a  flag,  a  medal,  a  ccr- 
tificatc.  and  a  string  of  wampum  ;  to  which  we  added  a 
chief's  coat — that  is,  a  richly  laced  uniform  of  the  United 
States  artillery  corps,  with  a  cocked  hat  and  red  feather. 
One  second  chief  and  three  inferior  ones  were  made  or 
recognized  by  medals,  a  suitable  present  of  tobacco,  and 
articles  of  clothing.  We  smoked  the  pipe  of  peace,  and 
the  chiefs  retired  to  a  bower  formed  of  bushes  by  their 
young  men,  where  they  divided  among  one  another  the 
presents,  smoked,  cat,  and  held  a  council  on  the  answer 
which  they  were  to  make  us  to-morrow.  The  young  people 
exercised  their  bows  and  arrows  in  shooting  at  marks  for 
beads,  which  we  distributed  to  the  best  marksmen.  In  the 
evening  the  .vhole  party  dance  until  a  late  hour,  and  in 
the  course  of  their  amusemen  '^hrew  among  them  some 

knives,  tobacco,  bells,  tape,  a.  nding,  with  which  they 

were  much  pleased.  Their  musical  instruments  were  the 
drum,  and  a  sort  of  little  bag  made  of  buffalo-hide  dressed 
white,  with  small  shot  or  pebbles  in  it  and  a  bunch  of  hair 
tied  to  it.  This  produces  a  sort  of  rattling  music,  with 
which  the  party  was  annoyed  by  four  musicians  during  the 
council  this  morning. 

August  i\st.  In  the  morning,  after  breakfast,  the  chiefs 
met  and  sat  down  in  a  row,  with  pipes  of  peace  highly  orna- 
mented ;  all  pointed  toward  the  seats  intended  for  Captains 
Lewis  and  Clark.  When  they  arrived  and  were  seated,  the 
grand  chief,  whose  Indian  name  Weucha  is  in  English 
Shake  Hand,  and  in  French  is  called  Le  Li-(/.  ji*)  bera- 
teur(the  Deliverer),  rose  and  spoke  at  some  length,  approv- 
ing what  wc  had  said,  and  promising  to  follow  our  advice. 

"I  see  before  me,"  said  he,  "my  Great  Father's  two  sons. 
You  see  me  and  the  rest  of  our  chiefs  and  warriors.  We 
are  very  poor ;  we  have  neither  powder,  nor  ball,  nor 
knives  ;  and  our  women  and  children  at  the  village  have  no 
clothes.     I  wish  that  as  my  brothers  have  given  me  a  flag 


YANKTON   ELOCUTION. 


93 


and  a  medal,  they  would  give  something  to  those  poor 
people,  or  let  them  stop  and  trade  with  the  first  boat  which 
comes  up  the  river.  I  will  bring  chiefs  of  the  Pawnees  and 
Mahas  together,  and  make  peace  between  them  ;  but  it  is 
better  that  I  should  do  it  than  my  Great  Father's  sons,  for 
they  will  listen  to  me  more  readily.  I  will  also  take  some 
chiefs  to  your  country  in  the  spring  ;  but  before  that  time 
I  cannot  leave  home.  I  went  formerly  to  the  English,  and 
they  gave  me  a  medal  and  some  clothes ;  when  I  went  to 
the  Spanish  they  gave  me  a  medal,  but  nothing  to  keep  it 
from  my  skin  ;  but  now  you  give  me  a  medal  and  clothes. 
But  still  we  are  poor  ;  and  I  wish,  brothers,  you  would  give 
us  something  for  our  squaws." 

When  he  sat  down,  Mahtoree  or  White  Crane  arose. 

"  I  have  listened,"  said  he,  "  to  what  our  father's  words 
were  yesterday  ;  and  I  am  to-day  glad  to  see  how  you  have 
dressed  our  old  chief.  I  am  a  young  man,  and  do  not  wish 
to  take  much;  my  fathers  have  made  me  a  chief;  I  had 
much  sense  before,  but  now  I  think  I  have  more  than  ever. 
What  the  old  chief  has  declared  I  will  confirm,  and  do 
whatever  he  and  you  please ;  but  I  wish  you  would  take 
pity  on  us,  for  we  are  very  poor." 

Another  chief,  called  Pawnawneahpahbe,  then  said  : 

"  I  am  a  young  man,  and  know  but  little  ;  I  cannot  speak 
well ;  but  I  have  listened  to  what  you  have  told  the  old 
chief,  and  will  do  whatever  you  agree." 

The  same  sentiments  were  repeated  by  Aweawechache. 

We  were  surprised  at  finding  that  the  first  of  these  titles 
means  "  Struck  by  the  Pawnee,"  and  was  occasioned  by 
some  {p.  jp)  blow  which  the  chief  had  received  in  battle 
from  one  of  the  Pawnee  tribe.  The  second  is  in  English 
Half  Man,  which  seemed  a  singular  name  for  a  warrior,  till 
it  was  explained  to  have  its  origin,  probably,  in  the  mod- 
esty of  the  chief ;  who,  on  being  told  of  his  exploits,  would 
say,  "  I  am  no  warrior ;  I  am  only  half  a  man." 

The  other  chiefs  spoke  very  little  ;  but  after  they  had 
finished,  one  of  the  warriors  delivered  a  speech  in  which  he 


'VI 


.1' 


Mi 


,.t 


t  ,1 


■«  irr-».  . 


I  ill 


i 

i  !■' 


94 


THE  COUNCIL  CONCLUDED. 


declared  he  would  support  them.  They  promised  to  make 
peace  with  the  Ottoes  and  Missouris,  the  only  nations  with 
whom  they  were  at  war.  All  these  harangues  concluded 
by  describing  the  distress  of  the  nation  ;  they  begged  us  to 
have  pity  on  them  ;  to  send  them  traders ;  they  wanted 
powder  and  ball,  and  seemed  anxious  that  we  should  sup- 
ply them  with  some  of  their  Great  Father's  milk,  the  name 
by  which  they  distinguish  ardent  spirits.  We  gave  some 
tobacco  to  each  of  the  chiefs,  and  a  certificate  to  two  of  the 
warriors  who  attended  the  chief.  We  prevailed  on  Mr. 
Durion  to  remain  here,  and  accompany  as  many  of  the 
Sioux  chiefs  as  he  could  collect,  down  to  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment. We  also  gave  his  son  a  flag,  some  clothes  and  pro- 
visions, with  directions  to  bring  about  a  peace  between  the 
surrounding  tribes,  and  to  convey  some  of  their  chiefs  to 
see  the  President.  In  the  evening  they  left  us  and  camped 
on  the  opposite  bank,  accompanied  by  the  two  Durions. 
During  the  evening  and  night  we  had  much  rain,  and 
observed  that  the  river  rises  a  little. 

The  Indians  who  have  just  left  us  are  the  Yanktons,  a 
tribe  of  the  great  nation  of  Sioux."     These  Yanktons  are 

"  For  the  position  of  the  Yanktons  and  Yanktonnais  as  members  of  the  great 
Siouan  linguistic  stock,  and  as  tribes  of  the  Sioux  proper  or  Dakota  Indians,  see 
the  classification  on  p.  loo,  and  note  there. 

I.  These  Yanktons,  with  whom  the  travelers  are  holding  a  council,  are 
enumerated  on  p.  97  as  the  First  tribe.  In  Lewis'  Statistical  View  they  are  those 
there  called  Yank'-ton-ah-nah'  ;  they  are  credited  with  80  lodges,  200  warriors, 
and  700  total  population,  and  located  on  the  Jacques  or  James  river,  the  Big 
and  Little  Sioux  rivers,  Floyd's  river,  and  the  Des  Moines.  "  These,"  says 
Lewis,  "  are  the  best  disposed  Sioux  who  rove  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  and 
these  even  will  not  suffer  any  trader  to  ascend  the  river,  if  they  can  possibly 
avoid  it ;  they  have  heretofore,  invariably,  arrested  the  progress  of  all  those  thev 
have  met  with,  and  generally  compelled  them  to  trade  at  the  prices,  nearly, 
which  they  themselves  think  proper  to  fix  on  their  merchandise.  They  seldom 
commit  any  further  acts  of  violence  on  the  whites.  They  sometimes  visit  the 
river  Demoin  [Des  Moines],  where  a  partial  trade  has  been  carried  on  with  them, 
for  a  few  years  past,  by  a  Mr.  Crawford.  Their  trade,  if  well  regulated,  might 
be  rendered  e»lremely  valuable.  Their  country  is  a  very  fertile  one  ;  it  consists 
of  a  mixture  of  woodlands  and  prairies.  The  land  bordering  on  the  Missouri  is 
principally  plains  with  but  little  timber."    (London  ed.,  1807,  p.  18.) 


4 


MANNERS  AND  DRESS  OF  THE  YANKTONS. 


95 


about  200  men  in  number,  and  inhabit  the  Jacques,  Des 
Moines,  and  Sioux  rivers.  In  person  they  are  stout,  well- 
proportioned,  and  have  a  certain  air  of  dignity  and  bold- 
ness. In  their  dress  they  differ  nothing  from  the  other 
bands  of  the  nation  whom  we  saw  and  will  describe  after- 
ward ;  they  are  fond  of  decorations,  and  use  paint,  porcu- 
pine quills,  and  feathers.  Some  of  them  wore  a  kind  of 
necklace  of  white  bear's  claws  three  inches  long,  closely 
strung  (/.  <5o)  together  round  their  necks.  They  have  only 
a  few  fowling-pieces,  being  generally  armed  with  bows  and 
arrows,  in  [using]  which,  however,  they  do  not  appear  as 
expert  as  the  more  northern  Indians.  What  struck  us 
most  was  an  institution  peculiar  to  them,  and  to  the  Kite 


"Yankton  "  is  a  word  which  settled  in  this  orthography,  though  it  formerly 
fluctuated  to  the  usual  extent.  The  full  phonetic  rendering  is  I-hank'-to"-wa". 
These  Indians  now  number  nearly  3,000,  of  which  the  majority  (1,725)  are 
or  were  recently  on  the  Yankton  Reservation,  S.  D.,  and  1,121  at  the  Fort 
Peck  Reservation  in  Montana  ;  a  few  (123)  at  Devil's  Lake  Agency,  N.  D., 
and  a  very  few  more  on  the  Crow  Creek  and  Lower  IJrule  Reservations,  S.  D. 

2.  The  Yanktonnais  or  Yanktoannans  (I-hank'-to''-wa"-na)  were  and  still  remain 
more  numerous  than  the  Yanktons  proper.  Lewis  called  them  in  his  Statistical 
View  the  Yanktons  of  the  North  or  Plains,  crediting  them  with  1,600  popula- 
tio.n,  500  warriors,  and  200  lodges,  and  locating  them  from  the  St.  Peter's 
and  Red  rivers  to  the  Great  Bend  of  the  Missouri.  "  This  band,"  he  says, 
"although  they  purchase  a  much  smaller  quantity  of  merchandise  than  the 
Sissatones,  still  appropriate  a  considerable  proportion  of  what  they  do  obtain  in 
a  similar  manner  with  tliat  mentioned  of  the  Sissatones.  This  trade,  as  small 
as  it  may  appear,  has  been  sufficient  to  render  the  Tetons  independent  of  the 
trade  of  the  Missouri,  in  a  great  measure,  and  has  furnished  them  with  the 
means  not  only  of  distressing  and  plundering  the  traders  of  the  Missouri,  but 
also  of  plundering  and  rnassacreing  [sh]  the  defenceless  savages  of  the  Missouri, 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river  Platte  to  the  Minetares,  and  west  to  ihe  Rocky 
mountains.  The  country  these  people  inhabit  is  almost  one  entire  ])lain,  uncovered 
with  timber  ;  it  is  extremely  level  ;  the  soil  fertile,  and  generally  well  watered." 

The  Yanktonnais  are  now  classified  and  divided  as  follows :  (i()  Upper 
Yanktonnais,  of  whom  most  are  on  Standing  Rock  Reservation,  N.  D, , 
though  a  few  (of  the  Cuthead  band  or  Pabaksa  subtribe)  are  on  Devil's  Lake 
Reservation.  (/')  Lower  Yanktonn.iis,  most  of  whom  are  on  Crow  Creek 
Reservation,  S.  D.,  others  at  Standing  Rock,  and  others  at  Fort  Peck,  Mont. 
Latest  re'urns  give  Upper  Yanktonnais  on  Standing  Rock  Reservation, 
1,786;  Lower  Y.-ynktonnais,  Crow  Creek  Reservation,  1,058;  at  Standing 
Rock  Agency,  1,739  •  'o''>'  °^  both,  4,583. 


^T" 


^ 

n 


96 


THE    "NANPASHENE       SOCIETY. 


[Staitan  :  see  p.  58]  Indians  further  to  the  westward,  from 
whom  it  is  said  to  have  been  copied.  It  is  an  association 
of  the  most  active  and  brave  young  men,  who  are  bound  to 
each  other  by  attachment,  secured  by  a  vow,  never  to  re- 
treat before  any  danger,  or  give  way  to  their  enemies.  In 
war  they  go  forward  without  sheltering  themselves  behind 
trees,  or  aiding  their  natural  valor  by  any  artifice.  Their 
punctilious  determination  not  to  be  turned  from  their 
course,  became  heroic,  or  ridiculous,  a  short  time  since, 
when  the  Yanktons  were  crossing  the  Missouri  on  the  ice. 
A  hole  lay  immediately  in  their  course,  which  might  easily 
have  been  avoided  by  going  around.  This  the  foremost  of 
the  band  disdained  to  do,  but  went  straight  forward  and 
was  lost.  The  others  would  have  followed  his  example,  but 
were  forcibly  prevented  by  the  rest  of  the  tribe.  These 
young  men  sit,  camp,  and  dance  together,  distinct  from  the 
rest  of  the  nation  ;  they  are  generally  about  30  or  35  years 
old,  and  such  is  the  deference  paid  to  courage  that  their 
seats  in  council  are  superior  to  those  of  the  chiefs  and 
their  persons  more  respected.  But,  as  may  be  supposed, 
such  indiscreet  bravery  will  soon  diminish  the  numbers 
of  those  who  practice  it  ;  so  that  the  band  is  now  re- 
duced to  four  warriors,  who  w.re  among  our  visitors. 
These  were  the  remains  of  22  who  composed  the  society 
not  long  ago ;  but,  in  a  battle  with  the  Kite  [Crow] 
Indians  of  the  Black  Mountains,  18  of  them  were  killed, 
and  these  four  were  dragged  from  the  field  by  their  com- 
panions.    [Cf.  Long's  Exp.  St.  Peter's,  I.  1825,  pp.  436-439.] 

Whilst  these  Indians  remained  with  us  we  made  very 
minute  inquiries  relative  to  their  situation,  numbers,  trade, 
and  manners.  This  we  did  very  satisfactorily,  by  means  of 
two  different  interpreters  ;  and  from  their  accounts,  joined 
to  our  interviews  with  other  bands  of  the  same  nation,  and 
much  intelligence  acquired  since,  we  were  enabled  to  under- 
stand with  some  accuracy  the  condition  of  the  Sioux, 
liitherto  so  little  known. 

The     Sioux    or    Dacorta     [Dakota]    Indians,    originally 


TRIBES  OF  THE   SIOUX. 


97 


settled  on  the  Mississippi,  and  called  by  Carver  Madowe- 
sians,  are  now  subdivided  into  tribes,  as  follows:" 

First,   Yanktons.     This   tribe   inhabits  the   Sioux,  Des 
Moines,  and  Jacques  rivers,  and  numbers  about  200  warriors. 


>d 


I 


*  I  will  give  a  general  account  of  this  great  family  of  Indians,  who  are  among 
the  most  important,  both  ethnically  and  politically,  of  any  with  whom  the 
United  States  has  had  to  reckon.  Perhaps  we  are  not  quite  yet  done  with 
them.  My  remarks  on  this  difiicult  subject  are  mainly  a  summary  of  Major 
Powell's,  in  his  article  on  Indian  linguistic  families,  pp.  111-118  of  the  Report 
of  the  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Ethnology  for  1885-86,  pub.  1891. 

The  name  Sioux  is  not  proper  to  these  Indians.  It  is  a  corruption  of  the 
Algonkin  word  NaJowC'Ssi-zuag,  meaning  the  snake-like  ones,  hence  the 
enemies,  being  thus  a  term  of  reproach  (so  Trumbull).  But  it  has  been  adopted 
for  the  Siouan  family,  after  Gallatin  (Trans,  and  Coil.  Amer.  Antiq.  Soc,  II. 
1835,  pp.  121,  306),  back  of  whom  Powell  does  not  go  for  names  of  any  of  his 
53  main  linguistic  stocks  or  families.  Gallatin  is  followed  by  Pritchard  (Phys. 
Hist.  Mankind,  V.  1S47,  p.  408),  and  retains  the  sense  he  originally  attached 
to  the  name  in  later  works  (Trans.  Amer.  Ethn.  Soc,  1848,  and  Schoolcraft's 
Indian  Tribes,  III.  1853,  p.  402).  Sioux  is  in  form  a  French  plural,  but  serves  in 
English  both  as  singular  and  plural ;  for  the  singular,  it  is  pronounced  "  Soo"  ; 
for  the  plural,  "  Sooz";  for  the  latter,  "  Siouxs"  or  "  Siouxes  "  is  sometimes  very 
badly  written.  The  singular  is  occasionally  written  "Sue"  or '' Soo,"  with  a 
plural  "  Sues"  or  "  Soos."  Clark's  MS.  alone  furnishes  more  than  a  dozen 
different  spellings,  for  examples  of  which  see  note  '",  p.  70.  The  adjective  is  now 
regularly  Siouan. 

Gallatin  divides  his  Sioux  into  four  principal  groups.  I.  Winnebegoes.  2. 
Sioux  proper  and  Assiniboins.  3.  The  Minnetare  group.  4.  The  Osages  and 
kindred  southern  tribes.  He  improperly  included  his  Shyennes  among  ihe 
Siou.\. 

"  Owing  to  the  fact  that  '  Sioux  '  is  a  word  of  reproach  and  means  '  snake  ' 
or  '  enemy '  the  term  has  been  discarded  by  many  later  writers  as  a  family 
designation,  and  '  Dakota,"  which  signifies  '  friend  'or  'ally,'  has  been  employed  in 
its  stead.  The  two  words  are,  however,  by  no  means  properly  synonymous.  The 
term  '  Sioux  '  was  used  by  Gallatin  in  a  comprehensive  or  family  sense,  and  was 
applied  to  all  the  tribes  collectively  known  to  him  to  speak  kindred  dialects  of  a 
widespread  language.  It  is  in  this  sense  only,  as  applied  to  the  linguistic  family, 
that  the  term  is  here  employed.  The  term  '  Dahcota '  was  correctly  applied  by 
Gallatin  to  the  Dakota  tribes  proper  as  distinguished  from  the  other  members  of 
the  linguistic  family  who  are  not  Dakotas  in  a  tribal  sense.  The  use  of  the 
term  with  this  signification  should  be  perpetuated."     (Powell,  /.  c.) 

We  should  observe  that  Lewis  and  Clark's  use  of  the  term  "  Sioux  "  is  in  its 
strict  tribal  sense,  not  in  the  above  broad  linguistic  sense.  All  the  tribes  they 
call  Sioux  are  Sioux  proper  or  Dakotas,  of  which  they  proceed  to  distinguish 
ten   tribes.     They   spell   Dakota  variously  in  different  places,  as  "  Darcota," 


m 


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tir  ' 


98 


TRIBES  OF  THE   SIOUX. 


Second,  Tetons  of  the  Burnt  Woods  [Bois  Bruits]. 
This  tribe  numbers  about  300  men,  who  rove  on  both  sides 
of  the  Missouri,  White,  and  Teton  rivers. 

"  Darcotar,"  "  Dacorta,"  "  Dacotah,"  etc.,  which  forms  I  leave  as  I  find  them. 
Observe  th..:  the  name  "  Madowesian,"  misprinted  from  Carver  in  the  text, 
is  the  Algonkin  Nadowessi wag,  above  explained.  Carver  (ed.  1796  consulted) 
prints  N.iudowessies,  pi.;  other  forms  are  Naudouessies,  Nadowasis,  etc.,  earlier 
in  Hennepin  (1683)  Nadiousioux  (whence  Carver's  corruption),  the  ending  of 
which  form  is  exactly  our  Sioux,  and  first  Naduesiu,  from  Nicolet,  1634-35. 

The  pristine  territory  of  the  Sioux,  in  the  broad  linguistic  sense  of  the  name, 
was  mainly  in  one  body,  the  only  exceptions  being  the  isolated  habitats  of  the 
fiiloxi,  Tutelo,  Catawba,  and  Woccon.  The  general  trend  of  Siouan  migration 
has  been  westward.  Probably  most  Siouans  were  east  of  the  Mississippi  in 
comparatively  late  prehistoric  times.  The  main  Siouan  territory  extended  from 
about  53"  N.,  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  country  'o  about  33°  N.,  including 
a  considerable  part  of  the  Missouri  watershed  and  that  of  the  upper  Mississippi. 
It  was  bounded  on  the  N.W.,  N.,  N.E.,  and  some  distance  E.,  by  Algon- 
quian  territory.  South  of  45'  N.  the  line  ran  eastward  to  Lake  Michigan.  It 
extended  westward  from  Lake  Michigan  through  Illinois,  crossing  the  Missis- 
sippi at  Prairie  du  Chien,  where  began  Algonquian  country.  The  Siouan 
tribes  claimed  all  the  present  States  of  Iowa  and  Missouri, excepting  parts  occu- 
pied by  Algonkins.  The  Mississippi  divided  these  two  families  for  a  short 
distance  below  St.  Louis.  The  line  then  ran  west  of  Dunklin,  New  Madrid, 
and  Pemiscot  counties.  Mo.,  and  Mississippi  Co.,  and  those  parts  of  Craig- 
head and  Poinsett  Cos.,  Ark.,  which  lie  east  of  the  St.  Francis  river.  Once 
more  the  Mississippi  became  the  eastern  boundary,  but  in  this  case  separating 
the  Siouan  from  the  Muskhogean  family.  The  Quapaw  or  Akansa  were 
the  most  southerly  tribe  in  the  main  Siouan  territory.  Southwest  of  the 
Siouan  family  was  the  Southern  Caddoan  group,  the  boundary  extending  from 
the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi  tiver  in  Louisiana,  nearly  opposite  Vicksburg, 
and  running  northwestwardly  to  the  bend  of  the  Red  river  between  Arkansas  and 
Louisiana  ;  thence  northwest  along  the  divide  between  the  Arkansas  and  Red 
rivers.  In  the  northwest  corner  of  Indian  Territory  the  Osages  (Siouan)  came 
in  contact  with  the  Comanche  (Shoshonean  family),  and  near  the  western 
boundary  of  Kansas  the  Kiowa,  Cheyenne,  and  .\rapaho  barred  the  westward 
march  of  the  K.insa  or  Kaw  (Siouan).  The  Pawnees  (Caddoan  stock)  in 
western  Nebraska  and  northwestern  Kansas  separated  the  Ponka  and  Dakota 
on  the  north  from  the  Kansa  on  the  south,  and  the  Omaha  and  other  Siouan 
tribes  on  the  east  from  the  Kiowa  and  other  tribes  on  the  west.  The  Omaha 
and  cognate  peoples  occupied  in  Nebr.iska  the  lower  part  of  the  Platte  river, 
most  of  the  Elk-horn  valley,  and  the  Ponka  claimed  the  region  watered  by  the 
Niobrara  in  northern  Nebrask.i.  There  seems  reason  for  assigning  to  the 
Crows  the  N.W.  corner  of  Nebraska  and  the  S.W.  part  of  S.  Dakota,  as  well 
as  the  northern  p.irt  of  Wyoming  and  the  southern  part  of  Montana. 

The  above  is  the  solid  body  of  Siouan  territory.     The  outlying  habitats 


J 


/ 


TRIBES  OF  THE   SIOUX. 


99 


Third,  Tetons  Okandandas  [Ogallalas],  a  tribe  consisting 
of  about  150  men,  vvlio  inhabit  both  sides  of  the  Missouri 
below  the  Cheyenne  river. 

were  in  Mississippi,  for  the  Biloxi ;  in  Virginia  and  subsequently  in  Pennsyl- 
vania, for  the  Tutelo  ;  South  Carolina,  for  the  Catawba  ;  North  Carolina,  for 
the  Woccon. 

The  whole  Siouan  stock  is  divided  into  i8  principal  branches,  i.  Dakota  or 
Sioux  proper  (see  above).  2.  Assinaboin.  3.  Omaha.  4.  Ponca.  5.  Kaw 
or  Kansa.  6.  Osages.  7.  Quapaw.  8.  Iowa.  9.  Oto.  10.  Missouri,  11. 
Winnebago.  12.  Mandan.  13.  Gros  Ventre  or  Minnetaree  or  Hidatsa.  14. 
Crow.  15.  Tutelo.  16.  Biloxi.  17.  Catawba.  18.  Woccon.  The  census 
of  the  whole  is  now  about  43. 000,  of  whom  only  2,000  are  in  British  America, 
as  against  41,000  in  the  United  States. 

We  turn  now  to  the  first  of  these  18  branches,  the  Sioux  proper  or  Dakotas, 
of  whom  Lewis  and  Clark  give  10  tribes  in  the  above  text,  which  may  be  com- 
pared with  the  following  tribes  and  subtribes  in  Powell's  classification  : 
DAKOTA  or  SIOUX  PROPER. 

A.  Santee.  These  include  the  Eighth  "  Mindawarcarton"  (Mde'wa-kan- 
too-wa"),  and  the  Ninth  "  Wahpatoota"  (VVa-qpe'-ku  te)  tribes  of  Lewis  and 
Clark.  According  to  U.  S.  Commissioner's  Report  for  1889,  and  the  U.  S. 
Census  Bulletin  for  1890,  there  were  869  of  them  together  on  the  Santee 
Reservation  in  Nebraska  ;  292  at  Flandreau,  Dakota,  and  54  at  Devil's  Lake 
Agency.  Lewis'  Statistical  View  gave  for  the  Eighth  of  these  120  lodges, 
300  warriors,  and  1,200  total  population  ;  for  the  Ninth,  60  lodges,  150 
warriors,  400  in  all.  Of  the  Eighth  the  View  remarks:  " 'Tis  the  only 
band  of  Sioux  that  cultivates  corn,  beans,  &c.,  and  even  these  cannot 
properly  be  termed  a  stationary  people.  They  live  ii  tents  of  dressed 
leather,  which  they  transport  by  means  of  horses  and  dogs,  and  ramble 
from  place  to  place  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  They  are  friendly 
to  their  own  traders  ;  but  the  inveterate  enemies  of  such  as  supply  their 
enemies,  the  Cheppeways,  with  merchandise.  They  also  claim  the  country 
in  which  they  hunt,  commencing  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  St.  Peters,  and 
extending  upwards,  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi,  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Crow-wing  r'vcr."  Of  the  Ninth  tribe  the  View  remarks:  "They  rove  in 
the  country  south  and  west  of  the  river  St.  Peters,  from  a  place  called  Uie 
Hardwood  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow  Medicine  river  ;  never  stationary  but 
when  their  traders  aie  with  them,  and  that  does  not  happen  at  any  regular 
or  fixed  point.  At  present  they  treat  their  traders  tolerably  well.  Their 
trade  cannot  be  expected  to  increase  much.  A  great  proportion  of  their 
country  is  open  plains,  lies  level,  and  is  tolerably  fertile.  They  maintain  a 
partial  traffic  with  the  Yanktons  and  Tetons  to  the  west  of  them  ;  to  these 
they  barter  the  articles  which  they  obtain  from  the  traders  on  the  river  -St. 
Peters,  and  receive  in  return  horses,  some  robes  and  leather  lodges." 

B.  SissETON.  These  are  the  Tenth  tribe  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  enumeration 
above,  there  misprinted  "  Sistasoone,"  elsewhere  variously  spelled  "  Sissa- 


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I  . 


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lOO 


TRIBES   OF  THE   SIOUX. 


Fourth,  Tetons  Minnakenozzo  [Minneconjou],  a  nation 
inhabiting  both  sides  of  the  Missouri  above  the  Ciieyenne 
river,  and  containing  about  250  men. 

ton,"  "Sisaton,"  "Sisiton,"  "  Sisitoan,"  "Cissiton,"  etc.;  in  the  Statistical 
View,  "  Sissatone."  The  full  phonetic  form  of  the  word  is  Si-si -to"-wan. 
What  is  left  of  them  now  is  divided  between  the  Sisseton  Reservation  in  S. 
Dakota,  where  with  the  Wahpeton  they  number  together  1,522,  and  Devil's 
Lake  Reservation  in  N.  Dakota,  where  the  Sissetons,  V/ahpetons,  and  Yank- 
tonnais  together  number  857.  The  Statistical  View  of  1806  says  :  "  They 
claim  the  country  in  which  they  rove,  embracing  the  upper  portion  of  the 
Red  river,  of  Lake  Winnipie,  and  St.  Peters  ;  it  is  a  level  country,  inter- 
sected with  many  small  lakes  ;  the  land  is  fertile  and  free  of  stone  ;  the 
majority  of  it  open  plains.  This  country  abounds  more  in  the  valuable 
fur  animals,  the  beaver,  otter  and  martin,  than  any  portion  of  Louisiana 
yet  known.  This  circumstance  furnishes  the  Sissatones  with  the  means  of 
purchasing  more  merchandise,  in  proportion  to  their  number,  than  any 
nation  in  this  quarter.  A  great  proportion  of  this  merchandise  is  reserved 
by  them  for  their  trade  with  the  Tetons,  whom  they  annually  meet  at 
some  point  previously  agreed  on,  upon  the  waters  of  the  James  river,  in 
the  month  of  May.  This  Indian  fair  is  frequently  attended  by  the  Yank- 
tons  of  the  North,  and  Ahnahs."  The  View  gives  the  Sissetons  80  lodges, 
200  warriors,  and  800  total  population.     (London  ed.  1807,  p.  17.) 

C.  Wahpeton.  These  are  Lewis  and  Clark's  Seventh  tribe,  above  spelled 
'■  Wahpatone."  The  full  phonetic  rendering  is  Wa-qpe'-to"-wa"  or  W'a- 
hpe-ton-wah.  They  are  now  with  the  Sissetons  at  the  two  Agencies  above 
noted.  In  1806  Lewis  gives  them  80  lodges,  200  warriors,  and  total  700 
population.  The  Statistical  View  says  of  them:  "Claim  the  country  in 
which  they  rove  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  river  St.  Peters,  from  their 
village  to  the  mouth  of  the  Chippeway  river,  and  thence  northeastwardly 
towards  the  head  of  the  Mississippi,  including  the  Crow-wing  river.  Their 
lands  are  fertile,  and  generally  well  timbered.  They  are  only  stationary 
while  the  traders  are  with  them,  which  is  from  the  beginning  of  October  to 
the  last  of  March.  Their  trade  is  supposed  to  be  [now.  1805]  at  its 
greatest  extent.  They  treat  their  traders  with  respect  and  seldom  attempt 
to  rob  them.  This,  as  well  as  the  other  Sioux  bands,  act,  in  all  respects, 
as  independently  of  each  other  as  if  they  were  a  distinct  nation." 

D.  Y'.\NKroN.  These,  the  First  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  ten  tribes,  have  been 
noticed  in  full  in  the  note  on  p.  94. 

E.  Yanktonnai.  These,  the  Sixth  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  ten  tribes,  are 
noticed  with  the  Yanktons,  p.  95,  note. 

F.  Teto.n.  These  include  the  Second,  Third,  Fourth,  and  Fifth  of  Lewis 
and  Clark's  ten  tribes  ;  but  there  are  also  others  which  our  authors  do 
not  discriminate.  The  accepted  classification  of  Tetons  at  present  is ;  (a) 
Bruli/s :   Lewis  and  Clark's  Second  tribe,     (b)    Sans  Arcs:    Lewis   and 


i 


'iii 


TRIBES  OF  THE  SIOUX, 


lOI 


Fifth,  Tetons  Saone.'"  These  inhabit  both  sides  of  the 
Missouri  below  the  Warreconne  river,  and  consist  of  about 
300  men. 

Sixth,  Yanktons  of  the  [North  or]  Plains,  or  Big  Devils, 
who  rove  on  the  heads  of  the  Sioux,  Jacques,  and  Red 

Clark's  Fifth  tribe  (?)    (c)  Blackfetl.     (d)  Minntconjous  :  Lewis  and  Clark's 

Fourth  tribe,     (e)   Two  Kettles,     (f)   Ogallalas,  with  several  subdivisions. 

(g)  Uncpnpas.     These  will  be  more  fully  treated  beyond,  where  the  Tetons 

come  up  for  special  mention  by  the  authors. 
10 1'l^g  .'  Tetons  Saone,"  or  Lewis  and  Clark's  Fifth  tribe,  have  given  rise  to 
much  conjecture  and  discussion.  From  information  privately  furnished  from 
the  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Ethnology,  based  on  J.  Owen  Dorsey,  I  note  the  following  : 
A.  L.  Riggs  says  "  Sanoni  wicasa  is  applied  by  other  Dakota  tribes  as  a  .<iort 
of  nickname."  T.  L,  Riggs  (in  the  Word  Carrier,  June,  July,  1889,  p.  14) 
says  :  ' '  The  Sicangu,  Ogallala  and  Brule  Sioux  formerly  spoke  of  the  Itazipco, 
Minikanojou  and  Hunkpapa  divisions  as  Sanoni  wicasa.  This  is  also  some- 
times done  at  present.  I  do  not  find  any  evidence  to  show  that  either  of  those 
divisions  ever  have  designated  themselves  or  each  other  by  that  name.  But 
among  the  Yanktonnai  Dakota  part  of  the  Hunkpatina  are  called  San-o-na, 
'  shot  at  a  white  object."  Maga  Bomdu  (the  Drifting  Goose)  in  1880  gave  Mr. 
Dorsey  Lewis  and  Clark's  Saone  as  the  third  gens  of  the  Yanktonnai  under 
Omahankte  ;  but  in  the  same  year  Nasuna  Tanka  (Big  Head)  and  Mato 
Nonpa  (Two  Grizzly  Bears)  gave  this  as  the  fourth  gens  of  the  Hunkpatina  or 
Lower  Yanktonnai,  under  Wa-un-zo-qi  (or  Yellow  Rump  of  an  Elk)."  J.  P. 
Williamson  (in  the  Word  Carrier,  June,  July,  1889,  p.  14)  says  that  Sanona  is  a 
division  of  the  Ilunkpati,  a  small  band  under  Omahakte.  The  balance  of 
evidence  is  therefore  in  favor  of  our  referring  L.  and  C.'s  Tetons  Saone  to 
the  Yanktonnai,  whatever  the  actual  scope  of  our  authors'  intent  may  have 
been.  In  the  London  edition  of  the  Statistical  View,  1807,  the  name  is  printed 
"Tetons  Sahone"  on  p.  18;  on  the  folding  leaf  facing  p.  24  it  stands  as 
"  Teton, -sah-o-ne."  No  ethnographer  who  wishes  to  get  at  the  real  facts  of 
L.  and  C.'s  Indian  names  should  fail  to  examine  the  original  manuscripts  in  the 
possession  of  the  American  Philosophical  Society,  and  at  present  in  my  hands. 
The  variance  from  the  Biddle  text  a.s  printed  is  very  great,  and  nowhere  greater 
than  in  ethnological  points.  For  example  :  That  portion  of  Clark's  MS.  which 
I  have  arranged  as  Codex  B,  gives  at  pp.  56.  57  :  "  The  Names  of  the  Defferent 
Tribes  or  bands  of  the  Sceoux  or  Darcotar  Nation — 1st.  Checker  Ree,  Yankton  (or 
bois  Ruley);  2nd.  Hoindebi'rloiVoXes);  3d.  il/c'Wdfawyy  (make  fence  on  the  river); 
4th.  Souon- Teton  (Vco^Xe  of  the  Prarie);  5th.  IVatipacootar  (Leaf  Beds);  6th. 
Tetarton  (or  village  of  Prarie);  7th.  Newastavton  (big  water  Town);  8th.  IVau- 
pataiie  {Leai  Nation);  9th.  Cis  Car6,i  {White  Man);  loth.  Micactiofsiba  {Cxxt 
bank);  nth.  Souon  (  —  );  I2th.  Sousilaons  (  —  ).  The  names  of  the  other 
bands  neither  of  the  Souex's  interpters  could  inform  me."  Here  are  twelve 
bands  instead  of  ten,  and  not  one  of  their  names  is  spelled  as  in  the  printed  text. 


I 


:mm- 


1 


I02       TRIBES   OF  THE   SIOUX— WHITE  BEAR  CLIFFS. 

rivers ;  the  most  numerous  of  all  the  tribes,  numbering 
about  500  men. 

Seventh,  VVahpatone  [Waqpetonwan  or  Wahkpatoan], 
a  nation  residing  on  the  St.  Peter's,  just  above  the  mouth 
of  that  river,  numbering  200  men. 

Eighth,  Mindawarcarton  [Mdewakantonwan],  proper 
Dacorta  [Dakota]  or  Sioux  Indians  [Gens  du  Lac  of  the 
French].  These  possess  the  original  seat  of  the  Sioux,  and 
are  properly  so  denominated.  They  rove  on  both  sides  of 
the  Mississippi  about  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  consist 
of  300  men. 

Ninth,  The  VVahpatoota  [Waqpekute  or  Wahkpakotoan], 
or  Leaf  Beds  [Leaf  Shooters].  This  nation  inhabits  both 
sides  of  the  river  St.  Peter's,  below  Yellow-  (/.  62)  wood 
river,  amounting  to  about  150  men. 

Tenth,  Sistasoone  [Sisseton].  This  nation  numbers  200 
men,  who  reside  at  the  head  of  the  St.  Peter's.  Of  these 
several  tribes  more  particular  notice  will  be  taken  here- 
after. 

Saturday,  September  ist,  1804.  We  proceeded  this  morn- 
ing under  a  light  southern  breeze,  and  passed  Calumet  bluffs. 
These  are  composed  of  a  yellowish-red  and  brownish  clay 
as  hard  as  chalk,  which  it  much  resembles,  and  are  170  or 
180  feet  high.  At  this  place  the  hills  on  each  side  come  to 
the  verge  of  the  river,  those  on  the  south  being  higher  than 
[those]  on  the  north.  Opposite  the  bluffs  is  a  large  island 
covered  with  timber,  above  which  the  highlands  form  a  cliff 
over  the  river  on  the  north  side,  called  White  Bear  cliff,  an 
animal  of  that  kind  having  been  killed  in  one  of  the  holes 
in  it,  which  are  numerous  and  apparently  deep.  At  six 
miles  we  came  to  a  large  sand-island  covered  with  cotton- 
wood  ;  the  wind  was  high,  the  weather  rainy  and  cloudy 
during  the  day.  We  made  15  miles  to  a  place  on  the  north 
side,  at  the  lower  point  of  a  large  island  called  Bon  Homme 
or  Good  Man  island."     The  country  on  both  sides  has  the 

"  Between  Bon  Homme  Co.,  S.  D.,  and  Knox  Co.,  Neb.,  beginning  about 
the  915th  river-mile.     The  island  retains  its  French  name,  which  is  also  that  of 


i 


BON   HOMME   ISLAND, 


103 


same  character  of  prairies  with  no  timber,  but  with  occa- 
sional low  lands  covered  with  cottonwood,  elm,  and  oak. 
Our  hunters  had  killed  an  elk  and  a  beaver;  catfish  are  in 
great  abundance. 

September  2d.  It  rained  last  night,  and  this  morning  we 
had  a  high  wind  from  the  N.W.  We  went  three  miles  to 
the  lower  part  of  an  ancient  fortification  on  the  south  side, 
and  passed  the  head  of  Bon  Homme  island,  which  is  large 
and  well  timbered.  After  this  the  wind  became  so  violent, 
attended  by  a  cold  rain,  that  we  were  compelled  to  land  at 
four  miles  on  the  north  side,  under  a  high  bluff  of  yellow  clay, 
about  no  feet  in  height.  Our  hunters  supplied  us  with 
four  elk  ;  we  had  grapes  and  plums  on  the  banks  ;  we  also 
saw  the  bear-grass  [rush, ///«<:;«  angustifolia\  and  rue  \Tlia- 
lictrum  sp.  ?]  on  the  side  of  the  bluf?s.  At  this  place  there 
are  high  lands  on  both  sides  (/.  6j)  of  the  river,  which 
become  more  levti  at  some  distance  back,  and  contain  but 
few  streams  of  water.  On  the  southern  bank,  during  this 
day,  the  grounds  have  not  been  so  elevated.  Captain  Clark 
crossed  the  river  to  examine  the  remains  of  the  fortification 
we  had  just  passed. 

This  interesting  object"  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  Mis- 

the  county  town.  The  other  island  mentioned  marks  the  910th  mile  point. 
Both  bluffs  named  are  in  continuation  of  those  already  noticed. 

"  See  plate.  The  original  sketch  occupies  pp.  81,  82  of  Clark,  Codex  N;  only 
half  of  it  was  engraved  for  the  Biddle  ed.,  as  now  reproduced.  The  original 
descriptions  are  in  Clark,  Codex  B  64,  65,  and  N  83-85.  But  this"antient 
fortification  "  is  simply  a  natural  formation — driftings  of  sand.  This  was  long 
agodetermined,  as  by  Warren  and  Haydenin  1855.  I  examined  the  place  in  1873, 
and  found  nothing  to  support  a  contrary  opinion.  It  w.is  visited  by  Mr,  T,  H. 
Lewis,  of  St.  Paul,  in  1890,  and  m.ide  the  subject  of  an  interesting  paperenlitled 
"  Lewis  and  Clark  and  the  Antiquities  of  the  Upper  Missouri  River"  (Amer. 
Antiq.  and  Orient,  Jour.,  Sept.,  1891,  pp.  288-293).     I  cite  from  pp.  291,  292  : 

"  The  earlh-works  so  glowingly  described  by  Captain  Clark  as  existing  011 
this  point  are  only  sand  ridges  formed  by  the  river,  the  land  being  low  and 
subject  to  overflow.  Above  the  point  the  river  deflects  from  the  Nebraska  shore 
and  the  strong  current  strikes  the  high  bank  on  the  Dakota  side,  and  is  gradually 
cutting  it  aw.iy,  while  at  the  same  time  the  point  is  being  extended  to  the  north 
by  the  accretions  from  the  river.  In  this  way  the  point  has  been  gradually  built, 
and  each  successive  flood  also  adds  to  its  general  elevation.     The  sand  ridges — 


% 


II 


\ 


104 


SUPPOSED   ANCIENT  FORTIFICATION. 


'Vi  I 


souri,  opposite  the  upper  extremity  of  Bon  Homme  island, 
in  a  low  level  plain,  the  hills  being  three  miles  from  the 
river.  It  begins  by  a  wall  composed  of  earth,  rising  imme- 
diately from  the  bank  of  the  river  and  running  in  a  direct 
course  S.  76°  W.  96  yards  ;  the  base  of  this  wall  or  mound 
is  75  feet,  its  height  about  8.  It  then  diverges  in  a 
course  S.  84°  W.  and  continues  at  the  same  height  and 
depth  to  the  distance  of  53  yards,  the  angle  being  formed 
by  a  sloping  descent ;  at  the  junction  of  these  two  is  an 
appearance  of  a  hornwork  of  the  same  height  with  the 
first  angle ;  the  same  wall  then  pursues  a  course  N.  69°  W. 
for  300  yards  ;  near  its  western  extremity  is  an  opening  or 
gateway  at  right  angles  to  the  wall  and  projecting  inward  ; 
this  gateway  is  defended  by  two  nearly  semicircular  walls 
placed  before  it,  lower  than  the  large  walls;  from  the  gate- 
way there  seems  to  have  been  a  covered  way  communicat- 
ing with  the  interval  between  these  two  walls ;  westward  of 

of  which  there  are  a  number  extending  across  the  point — mostly  conform  to  the 
general  direction  of  the  current  when  the  river  is  at  a  high  stage,  for  at  such 
times  it  does  not  follow  the  main  river  bed  or  channel,  but  takes  a  straighter 
course  down  the  valley  between  the  high  banks  and  bluffs. 

"  Bonhomme  Island  is  east  of  and  just  below  the  point,  but  is  now  connected 
with  it  by  a  bed  of  sand,  the  old  channel  having  been  filled  up  within  recent 
years.  The  general  formation  and  character  of  the  island  are  similar  to  that 
of  the  point. 

"  The  circular  redoubt  represented  on  Lewis  and  Clark's  maps  as  located  on 
the  west  side  of  the  island  is  one  of  thoje  curious  natural  sand  formations  which 
are  occasionally  met  with  along  the  Missouri  Valley.  The  bank  or  wall  is  some- 
what irregular  in  outline  and  lacks  considerable  of  being  a  circle.  Some  enter- 
prising settler  has  utilized  one  side  of  it  by  building  a  claim  shanty  upon  it. 

"  This  island  is  covered  with  sand-blows,  dunes  and  ridges,  and  it  is  rather 
strange  that  the  elaborate  description  of  the  point  was  not  extended  so  as  to 
include  all  of  the  island;  but  perhaps  the  greater  portion  of  ihem  have  been 
formed  since  the  time  of  the  expedition,  or  that  the  island — then  as  now — was 
covered  with  heavy  timber  and  a  dense  undergrowth,  which  hid  them  from  view. 

"  It  may  be  added  that  along  the  Missouri,  from  the  mouth  of  Knife  river 
to  Sioux  City,  there  were  many  low  points  an!  bottoms  and  some  islands, 
on  which  there  are  similar  ridges  and  dunes.  Probably  the  most  elaborate  of 
these  '  earth-works' are  located  on  the  west  side,  opposite  Springfield,  Soutli 
Dakota,  and  on  the  west  side,  opposite  to  and  above  Washburn,  North 
Dakota." 


:is»- 


JiWiii  '  iii'TiriiiimnimffTr " 


SUri'OSED  ANCIENT   FORTIFICATION. 


105 


the  gate,  the  wall  becomes  much  larger,  being  about  105 
feet  at  its  base,  and  12  feet  high;  at  the  end  of  this  high 
ground  the  wall  extends  for  56  yards  on  a  course  N.  32°  VV.; 
it  then  turns  N.  23°  W.,  for  73  yards ;  these  two  walls  seem 
to  have  had  a  double  or  covered  way;  they  are  from  10  to 
15  feet  8  inches  in  height,  and  from  75  to  105  feet  in  width 
at  the  base;  the  descent  inward  being  steep,  whilst  out- 
ward it  forms  a  sort  of  glacis.  At  the  distance  of  73  yards 
the  wall  ends  abruptly  at  a  large  hollow  place  much  lower 
than  the  general  level  of  the  plain,  and  from  which  is  some 
indication  of  a  covered  way  to  the  water.  The  space  (/.  6^ 
between  them  is  occupied  by  several  mounds  scattered  pro- 
miscuously  through  the  gorge,  in  the  center  of  which  is  a 
deep  round  hole.  From  the  extremity  of  the  last  wall,  in  a 
course  N.  32°  VV.,  is  a  distance  of  96  yards  over  the  low 
ground,  where  the  wall  recommences  and  crosses  the  plain 
in  a  course  N.  81°  W.  for  1,830  yards  to  the  bank  of  the  Mis- 
souri. In  this  course  its  height  is  about  8  feet,  till  it  enters, 
at  the  distance  of  533  yards,  a  deep  circular  pond  of  73 
yards  diameter ;  after  which  it  is  gradually  lower,  toward 
the  river ;  it  touches  the  river  at  a  muddy  bar  which  bears 
every  mark  of  being  an  encroachment  of  the  water  for  a 
considerable  distance;  a  little  above  the  junction  is  a  small 
circular  redoubt.  Along  the  bank  of  the  river,  at  1,100 
yards'  distance  in  a  straight  line  from  this  wai'  is  a  second, 
about  6  feet  high  and  of  considerable  width ;  it  rises 
abruptly  from  the  bank  the  Missouri  at  a  point  where  the 
river  bends,  and  goes  straight  forward,  forming  an  acute 
angle  with  the  last  wall,  till  it  enters  the  river  again,  not 
far  from  the  mounds  just  described,  toward  which  it  is  ob- 
viously tending.  At  the  bend  the  Missouri  is  500  yards 
wide  ;  the  ground  on  the  opposite  side  is  highlands,  or  low 
hills  on  the  bank;  where  the  river  passes  between  this  fort 
and  Bon  Homme  island,  all  the  distance  from  the  bend,  it  is 
constantly  washing  the  banks  into  the  stream,  a  large  sand- 
bank being  already  taken  from  the  shore  near  the  wall. 
During  the  whole  course  of  this  wall,  or  glacis,  it  is  covered 


I;  \ 


\A\\ 


% 


«^ 


•    I 


106 


PSEUDO-ANTIQUITIES. 


with  trees,  among  which  are  many  large  cottonwoods,  two 
or  three  feet  in  diameter.  Immediately  opposite  the  cita> 
del,  or  the  part  most  strongly  fortified,  on  Bon  Homme 
island,  is  a  small  work  in  a  circular  form,  wit!  a  wall  sur- 
rounding it  about  six  feet  in  height.  The  young  willows 
along  the  water,  joined  to  the  general  appearance  of  the 
two  shores,  induce  a  belief  that  the  bank  of  the  island  is 
encroaching,  and  [that]  the  Missouri  indemnifies  itself  by 
washing  away  the  base  of  the  fortification.  The  (/.  6s) 
citadel  contains  about  20  acres,  but  the  parts  between  the 
long  walls  must  embrace  nearly  500  acres. 

These  are  the  first  remains  of  the  kind  which  we  have 
had  an  opportunity  of  examining  ;  but  our  French  interpre- 
ters "  assure  us  that  there  are  great  numbers  of  them  on  the 
Platte,  the  Kansas,  the  Jacques,  etc.;  some  of  our  party 
say  that  they  observed  two  of  those  fortresses  on  the 
upper  side  of  Petit  Arc  creek,  not  far  from  its  mouth,  and 
that  the  wall  was  about  six  feet  high  and  the  sides  of  the 
angles  100  yards  in  length. 

September  ^d.  The  morning  was  cold,  and  the  wind  from 
the  northwest.  We  passed  at  sunrise  three  large  sand-bars, 
and  at  the  distance  of  ten  miles  reached  a  small  creek  about 
twelve  yards   wide,  coming   in   from  the   north,  above   a 

''  See  note*,  Aug.  26th.  Old  Durion  and  his  hopeful  Pierre  were  not  the  best 
ethnological  experts  in  the  world,  but  perhaps  the  highest  authorities  that  the 
Expedition  had  on  hand.  I  suspect  much  of  the  French  nomenclature  was 
simply  Durion's  ;  some  of  it  certainly  was.  Clark's  Codex  B  69  (I  have  now 
arranged  all  the  MSS.  in  codices,  and  pntrinated  ''  ni  for  reference)  has  these 
words:   "  Two  of  our  party  saw  tv  ■.. 

Arc  Creek  on  the  upper  ^        nc 
yards  and  about  S  f' 

"  There  are  no  traces  >iii.i,.  ificia 

found  in  this  neighboi  above  1 1-         luth  (, 

and  subject  to  overflow.  I  here  an'  ,iowever,  several  natural  ridges,  similar  to 
those  on  IJonhomme  Point.  On  ;.  lacent  hills  and  plateaus  there  are  isolated 
ruins  of  old  dirt  lodges  similar  to  t  se  constructed  by  the  Mandans.  There  is 
also  an  ancient  fort  on  the  east  or  lower  side  of  Bow  Creek  '>out  two  miles 
from  its  mouth,  and  another  still  further  south,  near  Hartingt  but  these  two 
forts  were  unknown  to  the  Lewis  and  Clark  ^.xpedition," 


■  it   fortresses  on  the  Pettiet 

1   angle  of  which  were  lOO 

paper  already  cited  says  ; 

rks  of  any  description  to  be 

the  Bow,  the  land  being  low 


ii 


THE  NIOIIKAKA   RIVER. 


107 


white  bluff.  This  creek  has  obtained  the  name  of  Plum" 
creek,  from  the  number  of  that  fruit  which  are  in  the 
neighborhood  and  of  a  delightful  quality.  Five  miles 
further  we  camped  on  the  south  near  the  edge  of  a  plain. 
The  river  is  wide  and  covered  with  sand-bars  to-day;  the 
banks  are  high  and  of  a  whitish  color  ;  the  timber  is  scarce, 
but  there  is  an  abundance  of  grapes.  Beaver-houses  have 
been  observed  in  great  numbers  on  the  river,  but  none  of 
the  animals  themselves. 

September  ^tli.  We  set  out  early,  with  a  very  cold  wind 
from  the  S.S.E.,  and  at  i^  miles  reached  a  small  creek, 
called  White-lime  creek,  on  the  south  side.  Just  above 
this  is  a  cliff  covered  with  cedar  trees,  and  at  three  miles" 
a  creek  called  White-paint  creek,  about  30  yards  wide ; 
on  the  same  side,  and  at  4«4  miles'  distance  from  White- 
paint  creek,  is  the  [Niobrara,  or]  Rapid  river,  or,  as  it  is 
called  by  the  French,  la  Rivere  qui  Court.'"  This  river 
empties  into  the  Missouri  in  a  course  S.W.  by  W.  and  is 
152  yards  wide  and  four  feet  deep  at  the  confluence.  It 
rises  in  the  Black  mountains  "  and  passes  through  a  hilly 

'^In  Bon  Homme  Co.,  S.  D.;  Wananri  river  of  Nicollet's  and  Warren's 
maps  ;  Emanuel  creek  of  G.  L.  O.  map,  1879.  It  empties  at  the  030th  mile 
point.  Clark's  B  70  has  Plumb  creek  .  .  .  "abounds  with  blumbs  of  a 
Delicious  flavour."     The  fruit  is  that  of  Pruttus  umericana. 

"Text  is  ambiguous  here.  For  "  three  miles  "  read  "  three  miles /ww  rrtw/." 
Clark's  B  72  has  :  "A  small  creek  in  a  bend  to  the  L.  S.  [larboard  side]  called 
White  lime,  at  xYt  miles  higher  up  passed  a  large  Creek  on  the  L.  S.  called 
White  paint."  His  exact  courses  and  distances  are  :  "  S.  5°  W.  i>^  mis.  to  the 
mo:  of  a  creek  on  the  L.  S.  below  a  Ceeder  Clift.  S.  35"  W.  i>4  mis.  to  the 
mo:  of  White  I'aint  River  on  the  L.  S."  Here  i^  -(-  '^  =3  'niles  from  camp. 
It  is  not  easy  to  turn  tabular  data  like  these  into  reading-matter  without  risk  of 
error  or  ambiguity.  Both  creeks  named  are  in  Knox  Co. ,  Neb.  White-paint 
is  I'Eau  qui  Monte  of  P.  du  Lac  ;  Wasiska  of  Nicollet  ;  now  called  by  a  name 
variously  spelled  Bazille,  Bazile,  Bozzie,  etc. 

'"  Sic — read  la  Riviere  qui  Court,  or  better  L'Eau  qui  Court,  as  P.  du  Lac, 
usually  contracted  and  corrupted  into  Quicourre,  Quicurre,  Quicure,  Quecure, 
sometimes  "  Quicum"  by  misprint.  The  L.  and  C.  codices  have  many  forms ; 
Clark  once  Ka-cure.  The  river  has  also  been  called  Spreading-water  and  Run- 
ning-water. 

"  Il.trdly  as  far  as  the  Black  hills.     The   Niobrara  is  almost   entirely  a 


if 


jl; 


t 


w 


I 


*! 


I08      PAWNEE   ISLAND— GOAT  CREEK — PONCA   RIVER. 

country,  with  a  poor  soil.  Captain  Clark  ascended  three 
miles  to  a  beautiful  plain  on  the  upper  side,  where  the 
Pawnees  once  (j>.  66)  had  a  village ;  he  found  the  river 
widened  above  its  mouth  and  much  divided  by  sands  and 
islands,  which,  joined  to  great  rapidity  of  the  current, 
makes  navigation  very  difificult,  even  for  small  boats. 
Like  the  Platte  its  waters  are  of  a  light  color ;  like  that 
river  too  it  throws  out  into  the  Missouri  great  quantities  of 
sand,  coarser  even  than  that  of  the  Platte,  which  forms 
sand-bars  and  shoals  near  its  mouth. 

We  camped  just  above  it,  on  the  south,'"  having  made 
only  eight  miles,  as  tlie  wind  shifted  to  the  south  and 
blew  so  hard  that  in  the  course  of  the  day  we  broke  our 
mast.  We  saw  some  deer,  a  number  of  geese,  and  shot  a 
turkey  and  a  duck.  The  place  in  which  we  halted  is  a  fine 
low  ground,  with  much  timber,  such  as  red  cedar  [/««?- 
perns  7'irg-tiiiaitus],  honey-locust,  oak,  arrow-wood,  elm,  and 
coffee-nut  [Gj'mfioc/adns  ca)iadcnsis']. 

September  t^th.  The  wind  was  again  high  from  the  south. 
At  five  miles  we  came  to  a  large  island  called  Pawnee 
island,  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  and  stopped  to  breakfast 
at  a  small  creek  on  the  north,  which  has  the  name  of  Goat '" 
[/.  e.,  Antelope]  creek,  at  8'-^  miles.  Near  the  mouth  of  this 
creek  tlic  beaver  had  made  a  dam  across  ?o  as  to  form  a 
large  pond,  in  which  they  built  their  houses.  Above  this 
island  the  Poncara""  river  falls  into  the  Missouri  from  the 

prairie  river,  rising  wirh  heads  of  White  river  between  the  South  Fork  of  the 
Cheyenne  and  tiie  North  Platte,  in  Laramie  Co.,  Wyo.  The  I!lacl<  hills 
proper  are  further  north,  in  Crr  ,k  Co.,  and  all  the  heads  of  the  South  Fork 
of  the  Cheyenne  intervene. 

'"  In  South  Dakot.r  ,    a  Reservation*;  for  at  the  mouth  of  the  Niobrara  the 

Missouri  ceases  to  separate  Nebraska  from  South  Dakota,  and  lies  entirely 
within  the  latter.  The  boundary  is  thence  alonj;  the  Niobrara  as  far  as  the 
mouth  of  the  Keya-paha  river,  the  first  large  branch  of  the  Niobrara  from  the 
north,  and  thence  along  that  branch  to  the  parallel  of  43°  N. 

''■  Now  Choteau  or  Chouteau  creek,  bounding  Bon  Homme  Co.,  S.  D.,  Cii  the 
west,  and  emptying  about  the  950th  mile  point.  The  Nawizi  river  of  Nicollet's 
map. 

'"'Elsewhere  Poncar,  Poncha,  Ponca  or  Ponk.i,  Punka.  Puncah,  Puncaw,  etc.; 


Ij 


PONCA   INDIANS. 


109 


south,  and  is  30  yards  wide  at  the  entrance.  Two  men 
whom  we  dispatched  to  the  village  of  the  same  name 
returned  with  information  that  they  had  found  it  on  the 
lower  side  of  the  creek;  but  as  this  is  the  hunting-season, 
the  town  was  sc  completely  deserted  that  they  had  killed 
a  buffalo  in  the  village  itself.  This  tribe  of  Poncaras 
[Poncas],  who  are  said  to  have  once  numbered  400  men, 
are  now  reduced  to  about  50,  and  have  associated  for 
mutual  protection  with  the  Mahas,  wlio  are  about  200  in 
number.  These  two  nations  are  allied  by  a  similarity  of 
misfortune;  they  were  once  both  numerous;  both  resided 
in  villages  and  cultivated  Indian  corn;  their  common 
enemies,  Sioux  and  smallpox,  drove  them  from  tlieir  (/>.  dy) 
towns,  which  they  visit  only  occasionally  for  the  purposes 
of  trade  ;  and  they  now  wander  over  the  plains  on  'he 
sources  of  the  Wolf  and  Quicurre  [.wj  rivers.  Between 
Pawnee  island  and  Goat  creek  on  the  north  is  a  cliff  of 
blue  earth,  under  which  are  several  mineral  springs,  im- 
pregnated with  salts;  near  this  we  observed  a  number  of 
goats,"'   from   which  the  creek  derives  its  name.     At  y/z 


,|' 


Ponca  is  the  usual  spelling.  It  is  a  prairie  stream  of  no  great  size,  north  of  and 
parallel  with  the  Niobrara.  The  word  as  the  name  of  the  Indian  tribe  about  to 
be  mentioned  is  of  equally  fluctuating  or'hography .  Lewis'  Statistical  View  gives 
a  French  nickname  'Les  Pongs."  They  are  there  credited  with  20  lodges, 
50  warriors,  and  a  total  of  2co  population,  residing  with  the  Omah.-is.  "The 
remnant  of  a  nation  once  respectable  in  point  of  numbers.  They  formerly 
[before  1805]  resided  on  a  branch  of  the  Red  River  of  Lake  Winnipie  ;  being 
oppressed  hy  the  Siou.\,  they  removed  to  the  west  side  of  the  Missouri,  on 
Poncar  river,  where  they  built  and  fortified  a  village  and  remained  some 
years.  Put  being  pursued  by  their  ancient  enemies  the  Sioux,  and  reduced  by 
continual  wars,  they  have  joined  and  now  reside  with  the  Mahas,  whose  lan- 
guage they  speak"  (English  ed.  1807,  p.  17). 

The  Poncas  are  a  tribe  of  the  great  .Siouan  family,  but  not  of  the  Sioux 
proper  or  Dakotas.  According  to  latest  returns  they  now  number  847,  of 
whom  605  are  in  Indian  Territory  under  the  Ponca  Agent,  217  are  in  \ebra<;ka 
under  the  Santee  Agent,  24  are  at  school  in  Lawrence,  Kas.,  and  one  is  at  the 
Carlisle  school  in  Pennsylvania. 

"These  "  goats  "  were  of  course  antelopes  (.■liili!oni/<rn  nntcricniin).  This 
animal  was  new  to  science  when  discovered  by  Lewis  and  Clark  in  1804,  and 
w.is  not  technically  named  till  181?.     See  note  '".  p.  121. 


;   (1 


it 


I 


no 


PONCA   ULUFFS — THE   DOME. 


miles  from  the  creek  we  came  to  a  large  island '"  on  the 
south,  along  which  we  passed  to  the  head  of  it,  and  camped 
about  four  o'clock.  Here  we  replaced  the  mast  we  had  lost 
with  a  new  one  of  cedar.  Some  bucks  [Cariaads  virginia?ius] 
and  an  elk  were  procured  to-day,  and  a  black-tailed  deer 
[^Cariacus  macrotis]  was  seen  near  the  Poncaras'  village. 

September  6t/i.  There  was  a  storm  this  morning  from 
the  N.W.,  and  though  it  moderated  the  wind  was  still 
high  and  the  weather  very  cold  ;  the  number  of  sand-bars, 
too,  added  to  the  rapidity  of  the  current,  obliged  us  to 
have  recourse  to  the  tow-line.  With  all  our  exertions  we 
did  not  make  over  8>2  miles,  and  camped  on  the  north, 
after  passing  high  cliffs  [Ponca  bluffs]  of  soft  blue  and  red 
colored  stone  on  the  southern  shore.  We  saw  some  goats 
and  great  numbers  of  buffalo,  in  addition  to  which  the 
hunters  furnished  us  with  elk,  deer,  turkeys,  geese,  and  one 
beaver;  a  large  catfish  was  caught  in  the  evening.  The 
ground  near  the  camp  was  a  low  prairie  without  timber, 
though  just  below  is  a  grove  of  cottonwood. 

September  ytk.  The  morning  was  very  cold  and  the 
wind  southeast.  At  5>i  miles  we  reached  and  camped  at 
the  foot  of  a  round  mountain  on  the  south,  having  passed 
two  small  islands.  This  mountain,"  which  is  about  300 
feet  at  the  base,  forms  a  cone  at  the  top,  resembling  a  dome 
at  a  distance,  and  70  feet  or  more  above  the  surrounding 
highlands. 

As  we  descended  from  this  dome  we  arrived  at  a  spot,  on 
the  gradual  descent  of  tl;e  hill,  nearly  four  acres  in  extent 
and  covered  with  small  holes.     These  are  the  residence  of 


"  Riddle  misses  a  name  liere.  Clark  B  77  says  ;  "  We  came  too  [read  came- 
to.  ».  t'.,  stopped  the  boats]  on  the  upper  point  of  a  larjje  Island  (which  I  call 
1^0  Preserves  Island).  "  The  cliffs  above  said  are  now  called  Choteau  or  Cliou- 
teau  bluffs.     Some  cliffs  opposite,  on  the  south,  are  the  Beauchamp  bluffs. 

'^"Resembling  a  cupola,"  Clark  15  79.  and  elsewhere  called  the  Dome;  a 
conspicuous  landmark,  the  Paha  Owassoke  of  Nicollet,  also  of  C.itlin,  now 
known  as  the  Tower,  near  the  q70th  mile  point.  As  to  the  islands  passed,  late 
maps  show  a  large  one,  perhaps  the  J.  des  Basques  of  P.  du  Lac,  who  marks 
on  the  north  hank  "  Second  Poste  de  la  Compagnie." 


! 


PRAIRIE-DOGS. 


Ill 


le  :  a 

I  now 

late 

harks 


a  little  animal,  called  by  the  (/.  68)  French  petit  chien 
(little  dog),  which  sit  erect  near  the  mouth  and  make  a 
whistling  noise,  but  when  alarmed  take  refuge  in  their 
holes.  In  order  to  bring  them  out  we  poured  into  one  of 
the  holes  five  barrels  of  water  without  filling  it,  but  we  dis- 
lodged and  caught  the  owner.  After  digging  down  another 
of  the  holes  for  six  feet,  we  found,  on  running  a  pole  into 
it,  that  we  had  not  yet  dug  halfway  to  the  bottom.  We 
discovered,  however,  two  frogs  in  the  hole,  and  near  it  we 
killed  a  dark  rattlesnake,  which  had  swallowed  a  small 
prairie-dog ;  we  were  also  informed,  though  we  never  wit- 
nessed the  fact,  that  a  sort  of  lizard  and  a  snake  live  habit- 
ually with  these  animals.  The  petits  chiens  are  justly 
named,  as  they  resemble  a  small  dog  in  some  particulars, 
though  they  have  also  some  points  of  similarity  to  the 
squirrel.  The  head  resembles  the  squirrel  in  every  respect, 
except  that  the  ear  is  shorter;  the  tail  is  like  that  of  the 
ground-squirrel ;  the  toe-nails  are  long,  the  fur  is  fine,  and 
the  long  hair  is  gray." 

'*  This  is  an  early  description  of  the  prairie-dog,  Cynoniys  luJovicianus ,  then 
unknown  to  science,  and  not  technically  named  till  1815,  when  it  was  called 
Arctomys  iudoviciana  by  George  Ord,  in  Guthrie's  Geogr.,  2d  Am.  ed., 
vol.  II.,  pp.  292  and  302.  Lewis  and  Clark's  description  of  1804  is  unmistak- 
able, and  it  would  have  prevented  some  fables  which  later  arose,  if  their  state- 
ment of  finding  a  young  prairie-dog  in  the  stomach  of  a  rattlesnake  they  killed 
had  not  been  overlooked.  The  snake  was  probably  Crotalus  conflttentus.  a 
species  common  in  Dakota.  Our  authors  do  not  appear  to  have  observed  the 
burrowing-owl  at  this  stage  of  their  journey.  The  prairie-dog  is  called 
"barking-squirrel"  a  few  paragraphs  further  on.  At  this  date  Gass  says 
"prairie-dog,"  and  gives  the  same  story  of  trying  to  drown  them  out;  his 
published  d.ite  being  1S07.  The  earliest  notice  I  have  seen  of  the  prairie-dog 
occurs  in  a  letter  from  Captain  Clark  to  Governor  Harrison,  dated  Fort  Mandan, 
.\pril  2d,  1S05,  and,  I  think,  published  in  1806 — if  so,  before  the  appearance  of 
Lieut.  Z.  M.  Pike's  Travels,  1810.  Clark  mentions  several  animals,  among 
them  "  the  ground  prairie  dog  (who  burrows  in  the  ground)."  Pike  is  usually 
cited  in  this  connection  before  Lewis  and  Clark  ;  but  he  must  yield  to  Clark  and 
to  Gass  in  priority.  His  notice  appears  at  p.  156,  at  date  of  Aug.  24th,  1806  (of 
his  MSS.).  It  begins  :  "  The  Wishtonwish  of  the  Indians,  prairie-dogs  of  some 
travelers,  or  squirrels  as  I  should  be  inclined  to  denominate  them,"  etc.  Here 
is  the  original  application  to  these  rodents  of  the  Indian  name  which  J.  Fenimore 
Cooper  applies  to  the  whip-poor-will  in  his  novels.     Pike's  passage  (a  footnote 


lit 

:il 


Wfmm^-- 


f'l  '^ 


■iti 
I 


I. 


i» 


PAWNEE   HOUSE — BOAT   ISLAND. 


September  %th.  The  wind  still  continued  from  the  south- 
east,  but  moderately.  At  seven  miles  we  reached  a  house 
on  the  north  side,  called  the  Pawnee  house,  where  a  trader 
named  Trudeau  "  wintered  in  the  years  1796-97  ;  behind  this, 
hills  much  larger  than  usual  appear  on  the  north,  about 
eight  miles  off.  Before  reaching  this  house,  we  came  by 
three  small  islands  "  on  the  north  side,  and  a  small  creek  on 
the  south;"  after  leaving  it,  we  reached  another  island 
at  the  end  of  17  miles,  on  which  we  camped,  and  called  it 
Boat  island."  We  here  saw  herds  of  buffalo,  and  some 
elk,  deer,  turkeys,  beaver,  a  squirreP"  and  a  prairie-dog. 
The  party  on  the  north  represent  the  country  through 
which  they  passed  as  poor,  rugged,  and  hilly,  with  the 
appearance  of  having  been  lately  burnt  by  the  Indians  ;  the 
broken  hills,  indeed,  approach  the  river  on  both  sides, 
though  each  is  bordered  by  a  strip  of  woodland  near 
the    water. 

(/.  6g)  September  gth.  We  coasted  along  the  island  on 
which  we  had  camped,  and  then  passed  three  sand-  and 
willo'.v-islands  and  a  number  of  smaller  sand-bars.  The 
river  is  shallow,  joined  by  two  small  creeks  from  the  north 
and  one '"  from  the  south.     In  the  plains  to  the  south  are 

nearly  a  page  long)  is  the  fountain-head  of  the  standard  fables  regarding  con- 
sociation of  prairie-dogs,  owls,  and  snakes  ;  but  that  is  not  his  fault,  for  all  that 
he  actually  says  is  true  enough. 

"  "  The  house  of  Mr.  Troodo,"  Clark  B  82. 

"'  The  Three  Sister  islands  of  Nicollet.  Warren,  etc.  But  now  there  is  one 
large  island  a  little  above  Fort  Randall,  at  the  gSoth  mile  point. 

'■■  The  present  site  of  Fort  Randall,  where  I  wintered  in  1872-73.  On  the 
north  side,  in  Mix  Co.  ,is  the  Yankton  Reservation  ;  but  the  military  reservation 
includes  a  section  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  Across  the  river  from  Fort  Randall 
is  a  ]ilace  called  Swan,  consisting  in  those  years  chiefly  of  a  stage  station.  A 
creek  or  coulee  leads  thence  to  a  lake  at  a  little  distance,  in  Mix  Co.,  which  I 
find  named  Lake  Andes  on  some  maps.  It  is  a  sort  of  a  slough,  and  used  to 
be  our  resort  for  duck-shooting.  About  1859  Fort  Randall  was  the  extreme 
point  on  the  Missouri  where  troops  were  permanently  established. 

'"  Now  called  Chi:ot  island  ;  perhaps  the  J.  de  Cedre  of  Perrin  du  Lac. 

'"  The  western  fox-squirrel,  Sciurtis  ludoviciauus,  common  at  Fort  Randall. 

■"' Wicha-paha  creek  of  Nicollet  ;  now  Scalp  creek,  with  a  large  islf»nd  at  its 
mouth,  about  the  990th  mile  point. 


■t 


m^ 


CEDAR   AND   MUD   ISLANDS. 


113 


great  numbers  of  buffalo,  in  herds  of  nearly  500;  all  the 
copses  of  timber  appear  to  contain  elk  or  deer.  We  camped 
on  a  sand-bar  on  the  southern  shore,  at  the  distance  of  14^ 
miles. 

Septeviber  loth.  This  day  we  made  20  miles.  The  morn- 
ing was  cloudy  and  dark,  but  a  light  breeze  from  the  south- 
east carried  us  past  two  small  islands  on  the  south  and  one 
on  the  north;  till,  at  the  distance  of  ioj4  miles,  we  reached 
an  island  extending  for  two  miles  in  the  middle  of  the 
river,  covered  with  red  cedar,  from  which  it  derives  its 
name  of  Cedar"'  island.  Just  below  this  island,  on  a  hill 
to  the  south,  is  the  backbone  of  a  fish"  45  feet  long,  taper- 
ing toward  the  tail  and  in  a  perfect  state  of  petrifaction, 
fragments  of  which  were  collected  and  sent  to  Washington. 
On  both  sides  of  the  river  are  high  dark-colored  bluffs. 
About  \]/2  miles  from  the  island,  on  the  southern  shore,  the 
party  on  that  side  discovered  a  large  and  very  strongly 
impregnated  spring  of  water;  and  another,  not  so  strongly 
impregnated,  half  a  mile  up  the  hill.  Three  miles  beyond 
Cedar  island  are  a  large  island  to  the  north  and  a  number 
of  sand-bars.  After  which  is  another,  about  a  mile  in 
length,  lying  in  the  middle  of  the  river  and  separated  by  a 
small  channel,  at  its  extremity,  from  another  above  it,  on 
which  we  camped.      These   two  islands   are    called  Mud 


1    V 


W 


Its 


"  Refore  this  island  was  reached,  the  Expedition  missed  a  creek  on  the  south, 
Miyokendi,  or  Whet  Stone  river,  of  Nicollet,  now  Whetstone  creek.  At  its 
mouth  is  an  island,  the  J.  4  Pierre  (or  Rock  island)  of  P.  du  Lac,  and  here  is 
the  1,000th  mile  point  of  the  Missouri.  "  Cedar  "  is  the  name  which  has  been 
applied  by  various  authors  to  several  different  islands,  many  miles  apart,  in  this 
portion  of  the  river.  That  of  the  text  seems  to  be  Rantesha-wita  of  Nicollet, 
First  Cedar  island  of  Warren,  now  Little  Cedar  island  ;  on  the  north  comes  in 
here  Cedar,  or  Bad  creek,  in  Charles  Cci.  Next,  on  the  north,  in  the  same 
county,  is  Fish  creek,  of  Nicollet's  or  of  Warren's  map,  and  one  of  these  two 
is  marked  on  some  maps  as  Platte  creek.  One  of  L.  and  C.'s  two  Mud  islands 
is  now  called  Snag  island.  What  with  the  shiftiness  of  the  islands,  and  the 
insignificance  of  the  creeks,  e.\act  identifications  are  difficult  between  Fort  Ran- 
dall and  White  river.  To-day's  camp  is  nearly  up  to  the  l,o2oth  mile  point, 
and  about  on  the  boundary  between  Gregory  and  Todd  Cos.  (on  the  south  side). 

^'  Certainly  no  "  fish,"  but  one  of  the  huge  reptiles  of  the  cretaceous  period. 


tr 


i 


I. 


114 


RECOVERY  OF  GEORGE   SHANNON. 


islands.  The  river  is  shallow  during  this  day's  course,  and 
is  falling  a  little.  The  elk  and  buffalo  are  in  great  abund- 
ance, but  the  deer  have  become  scarce. 

September  nth.  At  6%  miles  we  passed  the  upper 
extremity  of  an  island  on  the  south  ;  four  miles  beyond 
which  is  another  on  the  same  side  of  the  river;  and  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant  we  visited  a  {p.  70)  large  village 
of  the  barking-squirrel."  It  was  situated  on  a  gentle  de- 
clivity, and  covered  a  space  of  970  yards  long,  and  800  yards 
wide  ;  we  killed  four  of  them.  We  resumed  our  course, 
during  5>^  miles  passed  two  islands  on  the  north,  and  then 
camped  ^' at  the  distance  of  16  miles  on  the  south  side  of 
the  river,  just  above  a  small  run.  The  morning  had  been 
clouded,  but  in  the  afternoon  it  began  raining,  with  a  high 
northwest  wind,  which  continued  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  night.  The  country  seen  to-day  consists  of  narrow 
strips  of  lowland,  rising  into  uneven  grounds,  which  are 
succeeded,  at  the  distance  of  three  miles,  by  rich  level  plains, 
without  any  timber.  The  river  itself  is  wide,  and  crowded 
with  sand-bars.  Elk,  deer,  squirrels,  a  pelican,  and  a  very 
large  porcupine,  were  our  game  this  day ;  some  foxes  were 
seen,  but  not  caught." 

In  the  morning  we  observed  a  man  riding  on  horseback 
down  toward  the  boat,  and  we  were  much  pleased  to  find 
that  it  was  George  Shannon,  one  of  our  party,  for  whose 
safety  we  had  been  very  uneasy.  Our  two  horses  having 
strayed  from  us  on  the  28th  of  August,  he  was  sent  to 
search  for  them.  After  he  had  found  them  he  attempted 
to  rejoin  us ;  but  seeing  some  other  tracks,  which  must 
have  been  those  of  Indians,  and  which  he  mistook  for  our 
own,  he  concluded  that  we  were  ahead,  and  had  been  for 
16  days  following  the  bank  of  the  river  above  us.  During 
the  first  four  days  he  exhausted  his  bullets,  and  was  then 

"The  prairie-dog,  Cynomys  ludovkianus.     See  note '■".  p.  iii. 
"In  Gregory  Co.,  just  above  the  1,030th  mile  point. 

''This  porcupine  is  the  yellow-haired  species,  Ercthizon  epixanihus.  The 
"  foxes  "  were  probably  coyotes. 


DIFFICULT   NAVIGATION. 


"5 


k 
id 


St 

ur 
or 

len 


rhe 


nearly  starved,  being  obliged  to  subsist  for  twelve  days  on 
a  ''ew  grapes,  and  a  rabbit,  which  he  killed  by  making  use  of 
a  hard  piece  of  stick  for  a  ball.  One  of  his  horses  gave  out 
and  was  left  behind ;  the  other  he  kept  as  a  last  resource 
for  food.  Despairing  of  overtaking  us,  he  was  returning 
down  the  river,  in  hopes  of  meeting  some  other  boat  ;  and 
was  on  the  point  of  killing  his  horse,  when  he  was  so  fortu- 
nate as  to  join  us. 

(/>.  7/)  September  \2th.  The  day  was  dark  and  cloudy  ; 
the  wind  from  the  northwest.  At  a  short  distance  we 
reached  an  island  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  which  is  cov- 
ered with  timber,  a  rare  object  now.  We  with  great  diffi- 
culty were  enabled  to  struggle  through  the  sand-bars,  the 
water  being  very  rapid  and  shallow,  so  that  we  were  several 
hours  in  making  a  mile.  Several  times  the  boat  wheeled 
on  a  bar,  when  the  men  were  obliged  to  jump  out  and  pre- 
vent her  from  upsetting  :  at  others,  after  making  a  way  up 
one  channel,  the  shoalness  of  the  water  forced  us  back  to 
seek  the  deep  channel.  \Vc  advanced  only  four  miles  in 
the  whole  day  and  camped  on  the  south."  Along  both  sides 
of  the  river  are  high  grounds  ;  on  the  southern  side  par- 
ticularly they  form  dark  bluffs,  in  which  may  be  observed 
slate  and  coal  intermixed.  We  saw  also  several  villages 
of  barking-squirrels,  great  numbers  of  growse,"  and  three 
foxes. 

Siptcinber  \ith.  We  made  twelve  miles  to-day  through 
a  number  of  sand-bars,  which  make  it  difficult  to  find  the 
proper  channel.     The  hills  ^''  on  each  side  are  high  and  sepa- 

''  The  difficulty  of  navigating  is  perh-ips  the  reason  why  the  explorers  do  not 
name  a  creek  from  the  south  to-day.  It  is  enough  of  a  stream  to  be  laid  down 
on  Clark's  map  of  18 14,  where  it  is  lettered  Shannon's  Cr.,  though  I  cannot  fmd 
this  name  in  Clark  B.  It  is  also  Shannon  or  Dry  R.  ot  Maximilian,  1833. 
This  looks  as  if  it  were  named  for  C.eorge  Shannon  (see  Sept.  nth) ;  and  per- 
haps it  was.  by  an  after-thought  of  Clark's.  But  another  name  of  this  creek  is 
Washinanpi  (so  Warren),  and  the  two  words  are  suspiciously  similar.  Here  is 
now  a  pl.ice  called  Rosebud  Landing,  in  Gregory  Co. 

•"  The  sharp-tailed  grouse,  Pedinrttes  phasiniiellus  columbiantis. 

•"  The  most  conspicuous  of  these,  on  the  north,  in  lirulc  Co.,  are  called  Bijou 
or  Bijou's  hills,  after  a  trader  of  that  name  who  had  a  post  here,  and  was  killed 


.i 


ti; 


!  1)1 


II     , 


'I     I 


-l! 


:|1^ 


y 


!  Ml 


ii6 


NO   VOLCANOES  TO   BE   FOUND. 


?f 


'  .'i 


' 


HI 


i: 


rated  from  the  river  by  a  narrow  plain  on  its  borders.  On 
the  north  these  lowlands  are  covered  in  part  with  timber, 
and  great  quantities  of  grapes,  which  are  now  ripe  ;  on  the 
south  we  found  plenty  of  plums,  but  they  are  not  yet  ripe  ; 
and  near  the  dark  bluffs,  a  run  tainted  with  alum  and  cop- 
peras, the  southern  side  being  more  strongly  impregnated 
with  minerals  than  the  northern.  Last  night  four  beavers 
were  caught  in  the  traps  ;  a  porcupine  was  shot  as  it  was 
upon  a  Cottonwood,  feeding  on  its  leaves  and  branches. 
We  camped  on  the  north  side,  opposite  a  small  willow- 
island.  At  night  the  mosquitoes  were  very  troublesome, 
though  the  weather  was  cold  and  rainy,  and  the  wind  from 
the  northwest. 

September  \/^th.  At  two  miles  we  reached  a  round  island  ''* 
on  the  northern  side  ;  at  about  five,  a  run  on  the  south  ; 
2^  miles  further,  a  small  creek  ;'"  and  at  nine  miles  camped 
near  the  n  outh  of  a  creek  on  the  same  {p.  72)  side.  The 
sand-bars  are  very  numerous,  and  render  the  river  wide  and 
shallow  ;  this  obliged  the  crew  to  get  into  the  water  and 
drag  the  boat  over  the  bars  several  times.  During  the 
whole  day  we  searched  along  the  southern  shore,  and  at 
some  distance  into  the  interior,  to  find  an  ancient  vol- 
cano which  we  heard  at  St.  Charles  was  somewhere  in 
this  neighborhood  ;  but  we  could  not  discern  the  slightest 
appearance  of  anything  volcanic."  In  the  course  of  their 
search  the  party  shot  a  buck-goat "  and  a  hare. 

The  hills,  particularly  on  the  south,  continue  high,  but 

the  timber  is  confined  to  the  islands  and  banks  of  the  river. 

by  the  Sioux.  So  Citlin,  1832,  and  others.  The  hills  are  marked  on  most 
large  maps,  as  Nicollet's,  Warren's,  etc. 

"  Sailor  island  of  Nicollet  and  of  Warren. 

■"'  Ball  Cr.  of  some  maps,  Water-hole  Cr.of  others,  in  Lyman  Co.,  a  little  above 
the  present  site  of  Brule  City,  which  is  on  the  north,  in  county  of  same  name. 

■"  There  is  no  trace  of  anything  volcanic  in  the  course  of  the  Missouri  till 
past  Milk  river,  where,  in  the  country  on  the  north,  between  Maria's  and  Milk 
rivers,  the  evidence  of  volcanic  action  first  appears. 

*'  That  is,  a  male  antelope,  Antilocapra  amcricana.  The  hare  is  the  northern 
jackass-rabbit,  Lepiis  campestris,  of  which  Clark  15  98  gives  a  good  description  ; 
and  Lewis  Q  37-40  gives  over  three  pages  of  another  account. 


I 


WHITli   RIVER. 


117 


but 
iver. 

most 


above 
ime. 
uri  till 
Milk 

jrthern 
ption ; 


We  had  occasion  here  to  observe  the  rapid  undermining  of 
these  hills  by  the  Missouri.  The  first  attacl<s  seem  to  be 
on  the  hills  which  overhang  the  river ;  as  soon  as  the  vio- 
lence of  the  current  destroys  the  grass  at  the  foot  of  them, 
the  whole  texture  appears  loosened,  and  the  ground  dis- 
solves and  mixes  with  the  water;  the  muddy  mixture  is 
then  forced  over  the  low  grounds,  which  it  covers  some- 
times to  the  depth  of  three  inches,  and  gradually  destroys 
the  herbage ;  after  which  it  can  offer  no  resistance  to  the 
water,  and  becomes  at  last  covered  with  sand. 

September  \^tli.  We  passed,  at  an  early  hour,  the  creek 
near  last  night's  camp  ;  and  at  two  miles'  distance  reached 
the  mouth  of  White  "  river,  coming  in  from  the  south.  We 
ascended  a  short  distance,  and  stnt  a  sergeant  [Gass]  and 
another  man  to  examine  it  higher  up.  This  river  has  a 
bed  of  about  300  yards,  though  tlie  water  is  confined  to 
150;  in  the  mouth  are  a  sand-island  and  several  sand-bars. 
The  current  is  regular  and  swift,  with  sand-bars  projecting 
from  the  points.  It  differs  very  much  from  the  Platte  and 
Quicurre  {sic\  in  throwing  out  comparatively  little  sand, 
but  its  general  character  is  like  that  of  the  Missouri.  This 
resemblance  was  confirmed  by  the  sergeant,  who  ascended 
about  twelve  miles  ;  at  which  distance  it  was  about  the 
same  width  as  near  the  mouth,  and  the  course,  which 
was  generally  west,  had  been  (/».  jj)  interrupted  by  islands 
and  sand-bars.  The  timber  consisted  chiefly  of  elms  ;  he 
saw  pine-burrs  {sic — pine-cones],  and  sticks  of  birch  were 
seen  floating  down  the  river ;  he  also  met  with  goats, 
such  as  we  have  heretofore  seen,  great  quantities  of 
buffalo,  near  which  were  wolves,  some  deer,  and  villages 
of  barking-squirrels. 

At  the  confluence  of  White  river  with  the  Missouri  is  an 

*'  Or  White-earth  river  (to  be  distinguished  from  one  of  that  name  much  lower 
down  the  Missouri) ;  riviere  Blanche  of  the  French  ;  otherwise  Mankizitah  river, 
as  Nicollet,  etc.  White  river  arises  in  the  N.W.  corner  of  Nebraska,  south  of 
the  Ulack  hills,  and  of  some  headwaters  of  the  South  Fork  of  Cheyenne  river, 
soon  enters  South  Dakota,  and  courses  easterly  to  the  Missouri,  falling  into  this 
river  in  Lyman  Co.,  opposite  Brule  Co. 


•  ^ 


!    'J 


% 


\  » I 


\i 


Ii8 


CORVUS  OR  CROW   CREEK. 


■'» ' 


i.! 


'il 


excellent  position  for  a  town,  tlie  land  rising  by  three  grad- 
ual ascents,  and  the  neighborhood  furnishing  more  timber 
than  is  usual  in  this  country." 

After  passing  high  dark  bluffs  on  both  sides,  we  reached 
the  lower  point  of  an  island  toward  the  south,  at  the  dis- 
tance  of  six  miles.  This  island  bears  an  abundance  of 
grapes,  and  is  covered  with  red  cedar ;  it  also  contains  a 
number  of  rabbits  [Lf/>HS  aricmisia].  At  the  end  of  this 
island,  which  is  small,  a  narrow  channel  separates  it  from  a 
large  sand-island,  which  we  passed,  and  camped,  eight  miles 
on  the  north,  under  a  high  point  of  land  opposite  a  large 
creek  to  the  south,"  on  which  we  observed  an  unusual  quan- 
tity of  timber.  The  wind  was  from  the  northwest  this 
afternoon,  and  high;  the  weather  was  cold,  and  its  dreari- 
ness  increased  by  the  howlings  of  a  number  of  wolves*' 
around  us. 

Septcviber  \tth.  Early  this  morning,  having  reached  a 
convenient  spot  on  the  south  side  at  i^  miles'  distance,  we 
camped  just  above  a  small  creek,  which  we  called  Corvus, 
having  killed  an  animal  [a  magpie*']  of  that  genus  near  it. 
Finding  that  we  could  not  proceed  over  the  sand-bars  as 
fast  as  we  desired,  while  the  boat  was  so  heavily  loaded, 
we  concluded  not  to  send  back,  as  we  originally  intended, 

*•  Brule  City  is  .i  little  lower  down  and  across  the  Missouri. 

■"  This  blind  sentence  me.ins.  as  I  learn  from  Clark  B  lOO,  that  having  made 
eight  miles  in  all  to-d.-»y,  they  camped  on  the  right  hand  side  (going  up  river), 
opposite  a  creek  which  fell  in  on  the  other  side.  This  stream  is  about  to  be 
named  Corvus  creek,  which  the  G.  L.  O.  map  (1879)  charts  on  the  wrong  side, 
in  Brule  Co.,  and  by  name  of  American  creek. 

*''  The  common  gray  wolf  of  the  West,  Canis  lupus  occidentalis,  which  always 
hung  about  the  herds  of  buffalo.  This  is  quite  different  from  the  small  barking- 
wolf  or  coyote,  C.  latrans. 

•"  "  Killed  a  bird  of  the  Con<us  genus  and  order  of  the/»V(7,  about  the  size  of  a 
jack-daw  with  a  remarkable  long  tale,"  Lewis  Q  40-44,  where  are  over  4  pp.  of 
a  "  tale  "  about  it  ;  a  page  is  also  in  Clark  B  lof .  This  is  the  solitary  instance 
of  our  authors  venturing  a  technical  Latin  name  in  zoology.  The  American 
magpie  is  now  called  Pica  pica  hudsonica.  Corvus  creek  naturally  became  Crow 
creek  of  later  maps  ;  someone  also  named  it  American  river,  whence  a  combina- 
tion of  the  two  names,  as  American  Crow  creek  (so  Warren's  map).  The 
sometime  important  Crow  Creek  Indian  Agency  has  made  the  name  familiar. 


CROW   CREEK  CAMP. 


119 


:d, 


be 
side, 

vays 

:ing- 

of  a 
of 
ance 
•lean 
Zrow 
Dina- 
The 


our  third  periogue,  but  to  detain  the  soldiers  until  spring, 
and  in  the  mean  time  to  lighten  the  boat  by  loading  the 
periogue;  this  operation,  added  to  that  of  drying  all  our 
wet  articles,  detained  us  during  the  day.  Our  camp  is  in 
a  beautiful  plain,  with  timber  thinly  scattered  for  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile,  and  consisting  chiefly  (/i  elm,  cotton- 
wood,  some  ash  of  indifferent  quality,  and  a  considerable 
quantity  of  a  small  species  of  white  oak  {Qiurcus  uiuhdatavs.r. 
tcrig/iti.]  This  tree  seldom  rises  higher  (/.  y^)  than  30  feet, 
and  branches  very  much ;  the  bark  is  rough,  thick,  and  of  a 
light  color ;  the  leaves  are  small,  deeply  indented,  and  of  a 
pale  green  ;  the  cup  which  contains  the  acorn  is  fringed  on 
the  edges,  and  embraces  it  abcut  one-half ;  the  acorn  itself, 
which  grows  in  great  profusion,  is  of  an  excellent  flavor,  and 
has  none  of  the  roughness  which  most  other  acorns  possess. 
These  acorns  are  now  falling,  and  have  probably  attracted 
the  number  of  deer  which  we  saw  on  this  place,  as  all 
the  animals  we  have  seen  are  fond  of  that  food.  The 
ground,  having  been  recently  burnt  by  the  Indians,  is  cov- 
ered with  young  green  grass;  in  the  neighborhood  are 
great  quantities  of  fine  plums.  We  killed  a  few  deer  for 
the  sake  of  their  skins,  which  we  wanted  to  cover  the  peri- 
ogues,  the  meat  being  too  poor  for  food.  The  cold  season 
coming  on,  a  flannel  shirt  was  given  to  each  man,  and  fresh 
powder  to  those  who  had  exhausted  their  supply.*" 

September  ijt/i.  Whilst  some  of  the  party  were  engaged 
in  the  same  way  as  yesterday,  others  were  employed  in 
examining  the  surrounding  country.  About  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  behind  camp,  at  an  elevation  of  20  feet  above  it,  a  plain 
extends  nearly  three  miles  parallel  to  the  river  and  about  a 

**  Gass  has  a  separate  entry  for  Sept.  i6th,  when  he  was  with  one  man  explor- 
ing White  river.  "  We  set  out  for  the  boat  across  the  hills,  on  the  tops  of  which 
are  level  plains  with  a  great  number  of  goats  and  buffaloe  on  them.  Came  to 
the  head-w.-iters  of  a  creek  and  kept  down  it  a  S.E.  course,  and  on  our  way 
killed  three  deer.  We  proceeded  on  to  its  mouth,  which  I  computed  to  be  14 
miles  from  that  of  the  White  river.  Having  found  the  boat  had  passed,  we  pro- 
ceeded up  the  river  [Missouri],  and  came  to  a  handsome  bottom,  where  our 
people  had  encamped  to  dry  the  provisions  and  stores." 


I 


130 


THE  COUNTRY  ABOUT  CROW  CREEK. 


mile  back  to  the  hills,  toward  which  it  gradually  ascends. 
Here  we  saw  a  grove  of  plum  trees  loaded  with  fruit,  now 
ripe,  and  differing  in  nothing  from  those  of  the  Atlantic 
States,  except  that  the  tree  is  smaller  and  more  thickly  set. 
The  ground  of  the  plain  is  occupied  by  the  burrows  of  mul- 
titudes of  barking-squirrels,  who  entice  hither  the  wolves 
of  a  small  kind  [Cants  latrans],  hawks,  and  polecats,"  all  of 
which  animals  we  saw,  and  presumed  that  they  fed  on  the 
squirrels.  This  plain  is  intersected  nearly  in  its  whole 
extent  by  deep  ravines  and  steep  irregular  grounds  rising 
from  i(X>  to  200  feet.  On  ascending  the  range  of  hills 
which  border  the  plain,  we  saw  a  second  high  level  plain 
stretching  to  the  south  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  To 
the  westward,  a  high  range  of  hills  about  20  miles  distant 
runs  nearly  north  and  south,  but  not  to  any  great  ex-(/.  75) 
tent,  as  their  rise  and  termination  is  embraced  by  one  view, 
and  they  seemed  covered  with  a  verdure  similar  to  that  of 
plains.  The  same  view  extended  over  the  irregular  hills 
which  border  the  northern  side  of  the  Missouri.  All  around 
the  country  had  been  recently  burnt,  and  a  young  green 
grass  about  four  inches  high  covered  the  ground,  which  was 
enlivened  by  herds  of  antel  jpe  and  buffalo  ;  the  last  of 
which  were  in  such  multitudes  that  we  cannot  exaggerate 
in  saying  that  at  a  single  glance  we  saw  3,000  of  them 
before  us. 

Of  all  the  animals  we  had  seen  the  antelope  seems  to 
possess  the  most  wonderful  fleetness ;  shy  and  timorous, 
they  generally  repose  only  on  the  ridges  which  command  a 
view  of  all  the  approaches  of  an  enemy  ;  the  acuteness  of 
tiieir  sight  distinguishes  the  most  distant  danger,  the  deli- 
cate sensibility  of  their  smell  defeats  the  precautions  of 
concealment,  and  when  alarmed  their  rapid  career  seems 
more  like  the  flight  of  birds  than  the  movement  of  an 
earthly  being.  After  many  unsuccessful  attempts,  Captain 
Lewis  at  last,  by  winding  around  the  ridges,  approached  a 
party  of  seven   which  were  on  an  eminence  toward  which 

*'  ' '  Polecat  "  is  here  meant  for  skunk,  Mephitis  mtphitica. 


^ss^ 


AN   ANTELOPE   HUNT. 


121 


the  wind  was  unfortunately  blowing.  The  only  male  of 
the  party  frequently  encircled  the  summit  of  the  hill,  as  if 
to  announce  any  danger  to  the  females,  which  formed  a 
group  at  the  top.  Although  they  did  not  see  Captain 
Lewis,  the  smell  alarmed  them,  and  they  fled  when  he  was 
at  the  distance  of  200  yards  ;  he  immediately  ran  to  the 
spot  where  they  had  been  ;  a  ravine  concealed  them  from 
him,  but  the  next  moment  they  appeared  on  a  second 
ridge  at  the  distance  of  three  miles.  He  doubted  wlictl'.rr 
it  could  be  the  same  band,  but  their  number  and  the 
extreme  rapidity  with  which  they  continued  their  couise 
convinced  him  that  they  must  have  gone  with  a  speed 
equal  to  that  of  the  most  distinguished  race-horse." 

Among  our  acquisitions  to-day  were  a  mule-deer,'''  a 
magpie,  the  common  deer  [Cariacus  virginiamis  macrunis], 
and  buffalo.  Captain  Lewis  also  saw  a  hare,  and  killed  a 
rattlesnake  near  the  burrows  of  the  barking-squirrels. 

(/.  76)  September  iSt/i.  Having  everything  in  readiness 
we  proceeded  with  the  boat  much  lightened,  but  the  wind 
being  from  the  N.VV.  we  made  but  little  way.  At  one  mile 
we  reached  an  island  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  nearly  a 
mile  in  length  and  covered  with  red  cedar ;  at  its  extremity 
a  small  creek  comes  in  from  the  north."     We  then  met 

'"  This  nccount  of  the  .intelope,  much  abbrevi.nted  by  Biddle,  forms  most  of 
Lewis  Ba,  Sept.  it 7th,  1804 — the  same  fragmentary  codex  including  also  Sept. 
i6th.  It  is  an  excellent  sketch,  which  should  have  been  printed  in  full,  as  at 
that  time  the  animal  was  unknown  to  science. 

Class  also  does  his  share  of  natural  history  to-day  :  "Captain  Lewis  and 
some  men  went  out  to  hunt,  and  killed  thirteen  common  and  two  black-tailed 
deer,  three  buffalo  and  a  goat.  The  wild  goat  in  this  country  differ  from  the 
common  tame  goat,  and  is  supposed  to  be  the  real  antelope.  The  black- 
tailed,  or  mul,'  deer  have  much  larger  ears  than  the  common  deer  and  tails 
almost  without  hair,  e.xcept  at  the  end,  where  there  is  a  bunch  of  black  hair 
[Cari'ictis  i)iacrolis\.  There  is  another  species  of  deer  in  this  country,  with 
smal'  horns  and  long  fails.  The  tail  of  one  which  wc  killed  was  eighteen 
mches  '.ng  [Cariacus  viri;iniatius  niacruriis].  One  of  our  men  caught  a  beaver, 
and  '<illed  a  prarie-wolf  [Cams  /n/raus].  These  are  a  small  species  of  wolves, 
someth.ng  larger  than  a  fo.x,  with  long  tails  and  short  ears." 

"  Canacus  inacrotis,  so  called  from  its  large  ears  and  slim  tail. 

'•  Much  early  history  attaches  to  this  vicinity,  a  little  short  of  the  i.cyoth 


;ltl 


I 
if! 

k 


ii 


II  i 


122      PROSPECT   ISLAND— THE   THREE   SIOUX    RIVERS. 

some  small  sand-barr,  and  the  wind  being  very  high  and 
ahead,  we  camped  on  the  south,  having  made  only  seven 
miles.  In  addition  to  the  common  deer,  which  were  in 
great  abundance,  we  saw  goats,  elk,  buffalo,  and  black-tailed 
deer;"  the  large  wolves  too  are  very  numerous;  they  have 
long  hair  with  coarse  fur,  and  are  of  a  light  color.  A  small 
species  of  wolf,"  about  the  size  of  a  gray  fox,  was  also 
killed,  and  proved  to  be  the  animal  which  we  had  hitherto 
mistaken  for  a  fox.  There  are  also  many  porcupines, 
rabbits,  and  barking-squirrels  in  the  neighborhood. 

September  igt/i.  We  this  day  enjoyed  a  cool  clear  mo'n- 
ing  and  a  wind  from  the  southeast.  We  reached  at  three 
miles  a  bluff  on  the  south,  and  four  miles  further  the  lower 
point  of  Prospect"  island,  about  2'^  miles  in  length;  oppo- 
site this  are  high  bluffs,  about  80  feet  abo\e  the  M'ater, 
beyond  which  are  beautiful  plains  gradually  rising  r.s  they 
recede  from  the  river.  These  are  watered  by  three  streams, 
which  empty  near  each  other.  The  first  is  about  35  yards 
wide,  ihe  ground  on  its  sides  high  and  rich,  with  some 
timber ;  the  second,  about  twelve  yards  wide,  but  with  less 
timber  ;  the  third  is  nearly  of  the  same  size  and  contains 
more  water,  but-  it  scatters  its  waters  over  the  large  tim- 
bered plain  and  empties  itself  into  the  river  at  three  places. 
These  rivers  arc  called  by  the  French  Les  Trois  Rivieres  des 
Sioux,  the  Three  Sioux  rivers  ;  and  as  the  Sioux  generally 

mile  point,  and  well  within  Sioux  country.  The  island  noticed  but  not 
named  in  the  text  is  one  of  several  now  called  Cedar  (Second  Ced.ir  island  of 
Nicollet's  and  Warren's  maps)  ;  the  creek  from  the  "  north  "  (rather  east)  is 
Nicollet's  Rautesha  river  and  Warren's  Cedar  Island  river.  On  the  island  was 
the  old  site  of  Fort  Recovery  ;  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river  was  situated  Fort 
Cedar,  or  aux  Ccdre.?,  a  post  of  the  Missouri  Fur  Company 

'■'  Caiiaciis  macrotis,  also  called  mule-deer.  The  tail  is  mostly  white,  but 
tipped  with  black.  This  species  is  to  be  distinguished  from  one  west  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  C.  columbiaiius,  which  our  authors  hereafter  also  call  black- 
tailed. 

^*  The  coyote,  C<i>ii:,  Litrans. 

"  Present,  "r  a  recent  name  ;  also  called  Laurel  island,  from  the  French  Isle 
des  Lauriers.  A  little  below,  on  the  west  bank,  about  the  1, 080th  mile  point, 
was  built  Fort  Lookout. 


THE   GREAT   BEND   OF   THE   MISSOURI. 


123 


cross  the  Missouri  at  this  place,  it  is  called  the  Sioux  Pass 
of  the  Three  Rivers."'  These  streams  have  the  same  right 
of  asylum  as  the  Pipestone  creek  already  mentioned,  though 
in  a  less  degree. 

(/•  n)  Two  miles  from  the  island  we  pass  a  creek  15 
yards  wide  ;  eight  miles  further,  another  20  yards  wide  ; 
three  miles  beyond  which  is  a  third,  of  18  yards'  width  ;  all 
on  the  south  side.  The  second,  which  passes  through  a 
high  plain,  we  called  Elm  creek;  to  the  third  we  gave  the 
name  of  Night  creek,  having  reached  it  late  at  night." 
About  a  mile  beyond  this  is  a  small  island  on  the  north 
side  of  the  river,  called  Lower  island,  as  it  is  situated  at  the 
commencement  of  what  is  known  by  the  name  of  Grand 
Detour,"'  or  Great  Bend,  of  the  Missouri.  Opposite  is  a 
crook  on  the  south  about  ten  yards  wide,  which  waters  a 
plain  where  there  are  great  numbers  of  the  prickly  pear," 

'"'  Making;  into  the  Missouri  from  the  east,  in  Buffalo  Co.,  north  of  Brule  Co.; 
opposite  is  J.yman  Co.,  .icross  the  river,  extending  into  the  bight  of  the  Big 
Bend  of  the  Missouri.  \'arious  maps  consulted  chart  from  two  to  five  rivers, 
whose  nomenclature  is  much  mixed.  It  may  be  well  to  cite  Clark  Bin, 
here:  "  N.  50°  W.  3  miles  [from  last  camp]  to  a  pt.  of  wood  on  the  S.  S. 
[starboard  side]  opposit  is  a  bluff  on  L.  S.  [larboard  side].  North  4  miles  to  the 
Lower  pt.  of  Prospect  Island  opsd.  [opposite]  the  3  rivers  on  the  S.  S.  N. 
30'"  W.  2'/2  miles  to  the  upper  pt.  of  the  Island  psd.  [passed]  the  3  rivers,"  So 
the  three  rivers  emptied  within  the  length  of  Prospect  island.  I  am  informed  by 
Mr.  Henry  Gannett,  of  the  U.  S.  Geological  Survey,  that  present  namea  are,  in 
ascending  order  :  I,  Crow  creek;  2.  Wolf  creek  ;  3.  Campbell  creek.  Nicollet's 
map  charts  live  rivers  ;  i,  2,  3,  nameless  ;  4.  Pokende  ;  5.  Chanpepenan.  War- 
ren's has  three  ;  I.  Crow  ;  2.  Shompapi  ;  3.  Campbell's.  Most  maps  chart  sev- 
eral rivers,  but  name  only  the  first  and  largest,  as  Crow  creek — to  be  carefully 
distingui'^hed  from  Corvus  or  Crow  creek,  lower  down  and  on  the  other  side  of 
Uie  rivei.  The  present  Crow  creek  gives  name  to  the  Indian  Agency  here, 
nhere  is  also  the  site  of  Fort  Thompson. 

•"'''  Of  these  three  creeks  I  tiiid  the  first  on  some  maps  by  the  name  of  Laurel 
creek;  the  second.  Elm,  1  am  informed  is  now  called  Came!  creek  (Campbell? 
Perhaps  some  confusion  here  :  see  last  not^) ;  the  third,  Night,  is  now  a  certain 
Fish  creek.      \\a-ren'smap  names 'lie  l.rgest  branch  of  Crow  creek.  Elm  creek. 

'*  Sic — better  Detour.  Clark  II  115  has  "  Grand  de  Tortii,"  interlined  Detour 
This  remarkable  loop  of  the  river  takes  various  Enq;lish  adjectives,  as  Grand, 
Long,  (ireat.  Big,  etc.     An  Indian  epithet  is  Karmichigah. 

"  The  common  species  of  Opuntia,  of  the  Missouri  region. 


■'I 

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124 


THE   CIRCUIT   OF   THE   GREAT   BEND. 


which  name  we  gave  to  the  creek.'"  We  camped  on  the 
south,  opposite  the  upper  extremity  of  the  island,  having 
made  an  excellent  day's  sail  of  26}(  miles.  Our  game  this 
day  consisted  chiefly  of  deer,  of  which  four  were  black-tails, 
one  a  buck  with  two  main  prongs  of  the  horns  on  each  side 
and  forked  equally.  Large  herds  of  buffalo,  elk,  and  goats 
were  also  seen. 

September  zotli.  Finding  we  had  reached  the  Big  Bend, 
we  di.^patched  two  men  with  our  only  horse  across  the  neck, 
to  hunt  there  and  await  our  arrival  at  the  first  creek  beyond 
it.  We  then  set  out  with  fair  weather  and  the  wind  from 
the  S.E.,  to  make  the  circuit  of  the  bend.  Near  the  lower 
island  the  sand-bars  are  numerous,  and  the  river  is  shallow. 
At  19)^  miles  is  a  sand-island,  on  the  southern  side.  About 
ten  miles  beyond  it  is  a  small  island  on  the  south,  opposite 
a  small  creek  [Wassag]  on  the  north.  This  island,  wliich  is 
near  the  N.W.  cxtrei.iity  of  the  bend,  is  called  Solitary 
[now  Cul-de-sac]  island.  At  about  11  miles  further,  we 
camped  on  a  sand-bar,  having  made  27^2  miles.  Captain 
Clark,  who  early  this  morning  had  crossed  the  neck  of  the 
bend,  joined  us  in  the  evening.  At  the  narrowest  part  the 
gorge  is  composed  of  high  and  irregular  hills  of  about  180 
or  (/>.  jS')  190  feet  in  elevation  ;  from  this  descends  an  un- 
broken plain  over  the  whole  of  the  bend,  and  the  country  is 
separated  from  it  by  this  ridge.  Great  numbers  of  buffalo, 
elk,  and  goats  are  wandering  over  these  plains,  accompanied 
by  [sharp-tailed]  grouse  and  larks.  Captain  Clark  saw  a 
hare  [Lepus  eaiiipestris']  also,  on  the  Great  Bend.  Of  the 
goats  killed  to-day,  one  is  a  female  differing  from  the  male 
in  being  smaller  in  size;  its  horns  too  arc  smaller  and 
straightcr,  having  one  sharp  prong,  and  there  is  no  black 
about  the  neck.  None  of  these  goats  have  any  beard,  but 
are  delicately  formed  and  very  beautiful. 

September  2\sf.  Between  one  and  two  o'clock  the  sergeant 
on  guard  alarmed  us.  by  crying  that  the  sand-bar  on  whicli 

'"(iass  (Ides  not  notice  this,  .ind  gives  a  creek  wliicli  nur  authors  do  not  name, 
between  Elm  .iiid  Nijjht  creeKs.     He  calls  it  Wash  creek. 


/ 

ri 


i 


J 


A   NIGHT  ALARM— TYLER'S   RIVER. 


125 


we  lay  was  sinking.  \Vc  jumped  up,  and  found  that  both 
above  and  below  our  camp  the  sand  was  undermined  and 
falling  in  very  fast.  We  had  scarcely  got  into  the  boats 
and  pushed  off,  when  the  bank  under  which  they  had  been 
lying  fell  in,  and  would  certainly  have  sunk  the  two  peri- 
ogues  if  they  had  remained  there.  By  the  time  we  reached 
the  opposite  shore  the  ground  of  our  camp  sunk  also.  We 
formed  a  second  camp  for  the  rest  of  the  night,  and  at  day- 
light proceeded  on  to  the  gorge  or  throat  of  the  Great 
Bend,  where  we  breakfasted.  A  man,  whom  we  had  dis- 
patched to  step  oi?  the  distance  across  the  bend,  made  it 
2000  yards;  the  ciixuit  is30miles.  During  the  whole  course 
the  land  of  the  bend  is  low,  with  occasional  bluffs:  that  on 
the  opposite  side,  high  prairie  ground  and  long  ridges  of 
dark  bluffs.  After  breakfast,  we  passed  through  a  high 
prairie  on  the  north  side,  and  a  rich  cedar  lowland  and 
cedar  bluff  on  the  south,  till  we  reached  a  willow-island 
below  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek.  This  creek,  called 
Tyler's  [or  Tylor's"]  river,  is  about  35  yards  wide,  comes  in 
on  the  south,  and  is  at  the  distance  of  six  miles  from  the 
neck  of  the  Great  Bend. 

Here  we  found  a  deer  and  the  skin  of  a  white  [gray] 
wolf,  left  us  by  our  hunters  ahead.  Large  quantities  of 
different  kinds  of  plover  pna  brant  are  in  this,  neighbor- 
hood, collecting  and  moving  toward  (/.  /p)  the  south.  The 
catfish  are  small,  and  not  in  such  plenty  as  we  had  found 
them  below  this  place.  We  passed  several  sand-bars,  which 
make  the  river  very  shallow  and  about  a  mile  in  width,  and 
camped  on  the  south,  at  the  distance  of  1 1  '-^  miles.  On  each 
side  the  shore  is  lined  with  hard,  rough  gully-stones,  rolkd 
from  the  hills  and  small  brooks.  The  most  common  timber 
is  cedar,  though,  on  the  prairies,  there  are  great  quantities 
of  prickly  pear.     From  this  place  we  passed  several  sand- 

"  Running  chiefly  in  Presho  Co.,  but  emptying  about  the  boundary  between 
that  and  Lyman  Co.  Now  Medicine,  or  Medicine  Hill  river,  Indian  I'ahah- 
vvakan,  from  a  hillock  which  forms  a  conspicuous  landmark  near  the  river,  at 
some  little  distance  from  the  Missouri. 


1 


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M 


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120 


THK  THREE  SISTERS— LOISEl/s   PORT. 


bars,  whicli  make  the  river  shallow  and  about  a  mile  in 
width.  At  the  distance  of  11^  miles,  we  camped  on  the 
north  at  the  lower  point  of  an  ancient  island,  which  has 
since  been  connected  with  the  mainland  by  the  filling  up 
of  the  northern  channel,  and  is  now  covered  with  cotton- 
wood.  We  here  saw  some  tracks  of  Indians,  but  they 
appeared  three  or  four  weeks  old.     This  day  was  warm. 

September  22d.  A  thick  fog  detained  us  until  seven 
o'clock;  our  course  was  through  inclined  prairies  on  each 
side  of  the  river,  crowded  with  buffalo.  We  halted  at  a 
point  on  the  north  side,  near  a  high  bluff  on  the  south,  and 
took  a  meridian  altitude,  which  gave  us  the  latitude  of 
44°  11'  33t%' .  On  renewing  our  course,  we  reached  first  a 
small  island  on  the  south,  at  the  distance  of  4}3  miles, 
immediately  above  which  is  another  island,  opposite  a 
creek  15  yards  wide."'  This  creek,  and  the  two  islands,  one 
of  which  is  half  a  mile  long  and  the  second  three  miles,  are 
called  the  Three  Sisters  •.  a  beautiful  plain  extends  on  both 
sides  of  the  river.  This  is  followed  by  an  island  on  the 
north,  called  Cedar  island,  about  i^^  miles  in  length  and 
the  same  distance  in  breadth,  deriving  its  name  from  the 
quality  of  the  timber. 

On  the  south  side  of  this  island  is  a  fort  and  large  trad- 
ing-house, built  by  a  Mr.  Loisel '"  who  wintered  here  during 
the  last  year  in  order  to  trade  with  the  Sioux,  the  remains  of 

*"  Sentence  equivocal,  as  to  which  side  the  creeli  comes  in  on.  Claris  li  125 
I'as  :  '  Passed  a  small  island  on  the  L.  S.  imediately  above  passed  a  Island 
situated  nearest  the  L.  S.  abt.  [about]  3  miles  long,  behind  this  Isd.  on  the 
L.  S.  a  Creek  Comes  in  about  15  yards  wide,  this  Creek  and  Islands  are 
('ailed  the  3  sisters."  So  the  creek  is  on  the  larboard  side  or  left  hand 
going  up  river,  in  Presho  Co.  It  is  much  named  :  Three  Sisters  creek,  as 
\str  te.\t  ;  Third  Cedar  Island  river,  Nicollet,  1843;  Cedar  creek,  Reynolds,  1867; 
Cedar  creek,  G.  L.  O.  map,  1879  ;  now  Reynolds'  creirk,  after  Capt.  W.  V. 
Reynolds,  U.  S.  T.  E. 

'■■'  Name  correct.  A  codex  h.is  first  a  blind  word  of  which  Diddle  once  made 
Duquett.  Next  he  wrote  to  Clark  (July  7th,  1810,  letterbefore  me):  "  What  is 
the  name  of  the  trader  who  built  a  factory  on  Cedar  island,  a  Mr.  Lucette  we 
have  him  now?"  Clark  B  126  has  Louiselle,  very  plainly  ;  Code.K  P  133  is 
clearly  Louascll.     Elsewhere  we  find  I.oiseli  and  Loisellc.     ( Jass  prints  Lucelle  ; 


i 


ELK   ISLAND— SMOKE   AND   REUHEN'S  CREEKS. 


127 


f 

i 


whose  camps  are  in  great  numbers  about  this  place.  The 
establishment  is  60  or  70  feet  square,  built  with  red  cedar  and 
pic-  {p.  i'o)  keted  in  with  the  same  materials.  The  hunters 
who  had  been  sent  ahead  joined  us  here.  They  mention 
that  the  hills  are  washed  in  gullies,  in  passing  over  wluch 
some  mineral  substances  iiad  rotted  and  destroyed  their 
moccasins  ;  they  had  killed  two  deer  and  a  beaver.  At  16 
miles'  distance  we  came-to  on  the  north  side,  at  the  mouth 
of  a  small  creek."'  The  large  stones  which  we  saw  yester- 
day on  the  shores  are  now  some  distance  in  the  river,  and 
render  navigation  dangerous.  The  mosquitoes  are  still 
numerous  in  the  low  grounds. 

Septanber  z^d.  We  passed,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the 
southeast,  a  small  island  on  the  north  called  Goat  island  ; 
above  which  is  a  small  creek  called  by  the  party  Smoke" 
creek,  as  we  observed  a  great  smoke  to  the  southwest  on 
approaching  it.  At  ten  miles  we  came  to  the  lower  point 
of  a  large  island,  having  passed  two  small  willow-islands 
with  sand-bars  projecting  from  them.  This  island,  which 
•ve  called  Elk  island,  is  about  2)^  miles  long,  and  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  situated  near  the  south,  and  covered 
with  Cottonwood,  red  cui  -  ...,  and  grapes.  The  river  is  here 
almost  straight  for  a  considerable  distance,  wide  and  shallow, 
with  many  sand-bars.  A  small  creek  on  the  north,  about  16 
yards  wide,  we  called  Reuben's  °"  creek,  <.j  lieuben  Fields, 
one  of  our  men,  was  the  first  of  the  party  who  reached  it. 

Brackenridge,  L'Oiselle  (see  note  '•',  p.  71).  One  Registre  Loisel,  b.  Lower 
Canada,  came  to  St.  Louis  in  1793,  and  married  May  7th,  1800.  (liillon's 
Annals  St.  L.,  1886,  p.  465,)  Gass  describes  llie  post  more  particularly  :  "  The 
pl.'ice  picketed  in  is  about  65  or  70  feet  square,  with  centry-boxes  in  two  of  the 
angles.  The  pickets  are  13^  feet  above  ground.  In  this  square  he  built  a 
house  45  %  by  32  '/2  feet,  and  divided  it  into  four  equal  parts,  on-'  for  goods,  one 
to  trade  in,  one  to  be  usetl  .as  a  common  hall,  and  the  other  for  a  family  house." 

**  A  creek  marked    liaie  de  Naples  on  Nicollet's  map  answers  exactly  to  this. 

*' Owawichah  creek  of  Nicollet's  map;  ruid  the  island  here  called  Goat  is 
there  shown.     Neither  this  nor  the  Last  creek  is  charted  on  ordinary  maps. 

"  Wiyo-pahawakau  river  of  Nicollet,  Warren,  and  Reynolds,  translated  East 
Medicine  Knoll  river,  and  charted  under  this  name  on  ordinary  maps,  in  Hughes 
Co.     Across  the  Missouri  here,  in  I'resho  Co.,  was  the  site  of  old  I'ort  George. 


(   ■ 


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nil 


1: 


128 


TETON   SIOUX. 


At  a  short  distance  above  this  we  camped  for  the  night, 
having  made  20  miles. 

Tiie  country  generally  consists  of  low,  rich,  timbered 
ground  on  the  north,  and  higli  barren  lands  on  tlie  south  ; 
on  bcth  sides  great  numbers  of  bufTalo  are  feeding. 

In  the   evening  three  boys  of  the  Sioux"  nation  swam 

"  These  were  Tetons  :  "  The  Band  of  Seauex  called  the  Tetongues,"  Clark 
1?  130,  where  13iddle  respells. 

Kcferring  to  pp.  99-101  and  notes  there  for  an  outline  of  the  Tetons,  the 
picture  of  these  famous  miscreants  may  be  here  tilled  in.  I  first  give  the  sub- 
stance of  what  is  in  Lewis'  Statistical  View  of  1806,  and  then  add  the  modern 
statistics. 

Lewis  makes  four  tribes  or  bands  of  Tetons.  whom  he  calls  (I)  Tetons  I)Ois 
Brule  ;  (2)  Tetons  Okandandas;  (3)  Tetons  Minnakineazzo  ;  (4)  Tetons 
.Sahone.  (l)  120  lodges,  30f  warriors,  oot  total  population  ;  east  side  of 
the  .Missouri,  from  mouth  ol  the  White  to  the  Teton  river.  (2)  50  lodges, 
120  warriors.  360  total  ;  each  side  of  the  .Missouri  from  Teton  to  Cheyenne 
river.  (31  too  lodges,  250  warriors,  total  750  ,  both  sides  of  the  Missouri 
from  the  Cheyenne  river  up  to  the  Kicaras.  (4)  120  lodges,  300  warriors, 
total  900,  on  each  side  ot  the  Missouri  from  the  Kicaras  to  Warreconne 
river.  Then  in  his  Remarks  (item  "S"  of  his  schedule)  he  lumps  the  four, 
and  proceeds  to  characterize  them  thus  (p.  18  of  the  London  ed.)  : 

"  These  are  the  vilest  miscreants  of  the  savage  race,  and  must  ever  remain  the 
pirates  of  the  Missouri,  until  such  measures  .ire  pursued  by  our  government,  as 
will  make  them  feel  a  dependence  on  its  will  for  their  supply  of  merchandise. 
Unless  these  people  are  reduced  to  order,  by  coercive  measures,  I  am  ready  to 
pronounce  that  the  citizens  of  the  United  States  can  never^  enjoy  but  partially 
the  advantages  which  the  .Missoi.  .  presents.  Relying  on  a  regular  supply  of 
merchandise  through  the  channel  of  the  river  St.  Peters,  they  view  with  con- 
tempt the  merchants  of  the  Missouri,  whom  they  never  fail  to  plunder,  when  in 
their  power.  Persuasion,  or  advice,  with  them,  is  viewed  as  supplication,  and 
only  tends  to  inspire  them  with  contempt  for  those  who  offer  either.  The 
tameness  with  which  the  merchants  of  the  .Missouri  have  hitherto  submitted  to 
their  rap.icity,  has  tended  not  a  little  to  inspire  them  with  contempt  for  the  white 
persons  who  visit  them,  through  that  channel.  A  prevalent  idea  among  them, 
and  one  that  they  make  the  rule  of  their  conduct,  is,  that  the  more  illy  they 
treat  the  traders  the  greater  quantity  of  merchandise  they  will  bring  them,  and 
that  they  will  thus  obtain  the  articles  they  wish  on  bettor  terms  ;  they  have 
endeavored  to  inspire  the  Ricaras  with  similar  sentiments,  hut  happily  without 
any  considerable  effect.  The  country  in  which  these  four  bands  rove  is  one 
continued  plain,  with  scarcely  a  tree  to  be  seen  except  on  the  w.-i^cr  courses,  or 
the  stt-ep  declivities  of  hills,  which  last  are  but  rare  ;  the  land  is  fprtile,  and  lies 
extremely  well  for  cultivation  ;  many  parts  of  it  are  but  badly  watered.  It  is 
from  this  country  that  the  Missouri  derives  most  of  its  colouring  matter;  the 


ifj 


The 


vhite 


I 


TETON   SIOUX. 


139 


It    IS 

the 


across  the  river  and  informed  us  that  two  parties  of  Sioux 
were  camped  on  the  next  river,  one  consisting  of  80  and 
the  second  of  60  lodges,  at  some  distance  above.  After 
treating  'lem  kindly  we  sent  them  back  with  a  present  of 
two  carrots  of  tobacco  to  their  chiefs,  whom  we  invited  to 
a  conference  in  the  morning. 

{/>.  Si)  September  2\th.  The  wind  was  from  the  east, 
and  the  day  fair.  We  soon  passed  a  handsome  prairie  on 
the  north  side,  covered  with  ripe  plums,  and  the   mouth  of 

earth  is  strongly  impregnated  with  glauber  salts,  alum,  copperas,  and  sulphur, 
and  when  saturated  with  water,  immense  bodies  of  the  hills  precipitate  them- 
selves into  the  Missouri,  and  mingle  with  its  waters.  I'he  waters  of  this  river 
have  a  purgative  effect  on  those  unaccustomed  to  use  it.  I  doubt  whether  these 
people  can  ever  be  induced  to  become  stationary  ;  their  trade  might  be  made 
valuable  if  they  were  reduced  to  order.  They  claim  jointly  with  the  other  bands  of 
the  Sioux,  all  the  country  lying  within  the  following  limits,  viz.  beginning  at  the 
conlluence  of  the  river  Demoin  [Des  Moines]  and  Mississippi,  thence  up  the 
west  side  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peters  river,  thence  on  both 
sides  ot  the  Mississippi  to  the  mouth  of  Crow-wing  river,  and  upwards  with  that 
stream,  including  the  waters  of  the  upper  part  of  the  same  ;  thence  to  include 
the  waters  of  the  upper  portion  of  Red  river,  of  Lake  VVinnipie  [Winnipeg — Red 
River  of  the  North],  and  down  the  same  nearly  to  Pembenar  [Pembina]  river, 
thence  in  a  southerly  ourse  to  intersect  the  Missouri  at  or  near  the  Mandans, 
and  with  that  stream  [the  Missouri]  downwards  to  the  entrance  of  the 
Warrecunne  creek,  thence  passing  [beyond]  the  Missouri  it  [the  boundary] 
goes  to  include  the  lower  portion  of  the  river  Chyenne  [Cheyenne],  all  the 
waters  of  White  river  and  river  Teton,  includes  the  lower  portion  of  the  river 
Quicurre  |(^»ui  court — Niobrara]  and  returns  to  the  Missouri,  and  with  that 
•tream  (goes)  downwanis  to  the  mouth  of  Waddipon  river  and  thence  east- 
wardly  to  intersect  the  Mi:,sissippi  at  the  beginning  [of  the  boundary  thus 
traced]." 

This  picture  was  not  overdrawn,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  trouble  we  have 
always  had  with  these  ^khi.x.  But  "  point  of  view"  must  be  regarded  in  judg- 
ing Siou.x  and  other  things.  The  late  General  G.  K.  Warren,  who  as  Lieutenant 
Warren  knew  Sioux  thoroughly  well,  has  recorded  a  decision  which  deserves  t  J 
be  worked  in  ^,  ild  thread  on  the  colors  of  Custer's  regiment  :  "  I  have  always 
found  the  Ilakotasexceedingly  reasonable  beings,  with  a  very  proper  appreciation 
of  their  own  riglits.  What  they  yield  to  the  whites  they  expect  to  be  p.iid  for, 
and  I  have  never  heard  a  prominent  man  of  their  nation  express  an  opinion  in 
regard  to  what  was  due  them  in  which  I  do  not  concur.  Many  of  them  view 
the  extinction  of  their  race  as  the  inevitable  result  of  the  operation  of  present 
[1S55]  causes,  and  do  so  with  all  the  feelings  of  despair  with  which  we  should 
contemplate  the  extinction  of  our  nationality."     <Kep.  Lxpls.  Neb.  and  Dak., 


i'' 


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130 


niGHWATER   CREEK. 


-J. 


a  creek  on  the  south,  called  Highwater"  creek,  a  little  above 
our  camp.  At  about  five  miles  we  reached  an  island  2)^ 
miles  in  length,  and  situated  near  the  south.  Here  we  were 
joined  by  one  of  our  hunters  [ColterJ,  who  procured  four  elk, 
but  whilst  he  was  in  pursuit  of  the  game  the  Indians  had 
stolen  his  horse.  We  left  the  island,  and  soon  overtook  five 
Indians  on  the  shore;  we  anchored,  and  told  them  from 
the  boat  we  were  friends  and  wished  to  continue  so,  but 
were  not  afraid  of  any  Indians  ;  that  some  of  their  young 
men  had  stolen  the  horse  which  their  great  father  had  sent 
for  their  great  chief,  and  that  we  could  not  treat  with  them 
until  he  was  restored.  They  said  that  they  knew  nothing 
of  the  horse,  but  if  he  had  been  taken  he  should  be  given 
up.     We    went    on,    and  at   \l]^   miles,  passed  an  island 

reprint  of  1875,  p.  54.)  Lewis'  View  of  1806  may  be  contrasted  with  the 
following  statistics  and  present  classification  of  the  Tetons— of  whom,  it  must 
be  premised,  there  .ire  several  other  bands  than  those  four  which  Lewis  and 
Clark  met  on  ascending  the  Missouri  in  1804.  The  Teton  (Ti-ton-wa")  Indians 
are  now  classed  as  : 

1.  Burnt  Woods  or  Bois  BrttUs,  subdivided  into  (a)  Upper  Bruies  or  High- 
hind  Sit-ca°-xu,  and  (b)  Lower  Hrules  or  Lowland  Sit-ca"-xu.  Nearly  all  the 
former,  to  the  number  of  3,245,  are  on  the  Rosebud  Reservation,  S.  D. ;  the 
latter  number  1,026  at  the  Crow  Creek  and  Lower  Brule  Agency. 

2.  Sans  Arcs  (Without  Bows,  I-ta-zip-tco) ;  mostly  on  the  Cheyenne  Reserva- 
tion, S.  D.;  some  at  Standing  Rock,  N.  D. 

3.  Blackfeet  (Si-ha'-sa'-pa)  ;  as  (2)  ;  those  at  Standing  Rock  are  545  in 
number. 

4.  Minnecoitjous(yi\-m-\i6 -o'yi) ;  mostly  on  the  Cheyenne  Reservation  :  with 
some  of  the  Two  Kettles  band,  they  number  2,823  ;  others  are  at  Rosebud,  and 
some  at  Standing  Rock. 

5.  Two  Kettles  (0-o'-he-no"-pa,  Two  Boilings) ;  some  with  (4),  on  the 
Cheyenne  Reservation  ;  315  on  the  Rosebud. 

6.  Ogallalas  or  Ot;lalas  (the  Okandandas  of  Lewis  and  Clark) ;  mostly  on 
I'ine  Ridge  Reservation,  S.  I).,  to  the  number  of  4,452;  some  on  Standing 
Rock.  Subdivision  of  the  Ogallala  tribe  gives  :  (a)  Wazaza,  Wajaja,  or 
Waihazha,  on  the  Rosebud,  1,825  I  <ind  (b)  Wagluxe,  Inbreeders  or  Loafers, 
on  the  Rosebud,  1,353. 

7.  Uncpapas  or  Uncapapas  (Huiik'-papa);  on  Standing  Rock  Reservation, 
now  numbering  only  571. 

•'''  Katota  Tok.ih  or  Cabri  river,  Nicollet ;  Cabri  creek,  Reynolds  ;  Antelope 
or  Cabri  river,  Warren  ;  Antelope  creek  or  river  of  present  maps,  in  Presho 
Co.,  S.  D.     Nearly  opposite  this,  on  the  north,  in   Hughes  Co.,  is  the  mouth 


CdOn-llUMORED   ISLAND— TETON   RIVER. 


131 


the 

on 
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or 
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Ion, 


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on  the  north,  which  we  called  Good-humored '"  island ; 
it  is  about  i^-s  miles  long  and  abounds  in  elk.  At 
1$}^  miles,  we  anchored  lOO  yards  off  the  mouth  of 
a  river  on  the  south  side,  where  we  were  joined  by 
both  the  periogues,  and  camped  ;  two-thirds  of  the 
party  remained  on  board,  and  the  rest  went  as  a  guard 
on  shore  with  the  cooks  and  one  periogue.  We  have 
seen  along  the  sides  of  the  hills  on  the  north  a  great 
deal  of  stone  ;  besides  the  elk,  we  also  observed  a  hare. 
The  five  Indians  whom  we  had  seen  followed  us,  and  slept 
with  the  guard  on  shore.  Finding  one  of  them  was  a 
chief,  we  smoked  with  him  and  made  him  a  present  of 
tobacco.  This  river  is  about  70  yards  wide,  and  has  a 
considerable  current.  As  the  tribe  of  the  Sioux  which 
inhabit  it  are  called  Tetons,  wc  gave  it  the  name  of 
Teton  '"  river.  (/.  Sj) 

of  a  considerable  stream  which  the  explorers  were  perhaps  too  much  troubled 
by  the  Indians  to  notice.  This  is  the  "  I'adani  Tiyohe  or  Pawnis  Deserted  K.' 
of  Nicollet  ;  Pawnees  Deserted,  of  Warren  ;  charted,  but  nameless,  on  Reynolds' 
map.  It  is  notable,  because  here,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Missouri,  was 
the  site  of  c/i/  Fort  Sully,  for  some  time  a  formidable  menace  to  the  turbulent 
Tetons.    .\nother  Fort  Sully  was  later  built,  above  Teton  river  :  see  note  beyond. 

'■'■'  Two  islands,  some  distance  apart,  are  charted  by  Nicollet,  Warren,  and 
Reynolds  ;  one,  just  above  Antelope  creek,  Warren  letters  Farm  island.  This 
is  the  one  noted,  but  not  named,  "  at  about  five  miles,"  in  the  te.xt.  The  other. 
Good-humored  island,  is  just  below  Teton  river  ;  and  I  am  informed  by  Mr. 
Henry  Gannett  that  it  is  now  called  Framboise  (Raspberry)  island. 

'"  The  .'^ioux  name — Chicha  or  Schicha  or  Shisha,  with  Watpa  or  Wakpa 
(river)  prefixed — means  Had  river.  The  Teton  or  Bad  river  is  only  a  prairie 
stream,  between  and  parallel  with  the  White  below  and  the  Cheyenne  above. 
It  heads  from  the  direction  of  the  Plack  hills,  but  is  cut  off  from  these  by 
the  South  Pork  of  the  Cheyenne  ;  courses  eastward  and  falls  into  the  Mis- 
souri between  Stanley  and  Pratt  Cos.,  opposite  Hughes  Co.  Three  miles 
above  its  mouth,  on  the  right  (west)  bank  of  the  Missouri,  was  t'le  site  of 
old  Fort  Pierre.  The  full  name  of  this  establishment  was  Fort  Pierre  Chou- 
teau, after  P.  Chouteau,  jr.  (b.  Jan.  g,  1789,  d.  Oct.  6,  1865),  second  son  of 
(John)  Pierre  C  houteau,  sr.,  and  a  membe  of  the  family  so  long  famous  in  the 
annals  of  St.  Louis.  The  fort  was  originally  a  trading-post  of  the  American 
Fur  Co.,  at  one  time  in  business  under  the  style  of  P.  Chouteau  &  Co.  The 
full  name  appears  on  niapsof  less  than  fifty  years  ago;  the  surname  was  graduallv 
dropped,  but  the  Christian  n.nme  survives  as  that  of  Pierre,  now  the  capital  of 
South  Dakota,  ;it  the  mouth  i>{  the  river. 


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CHAPTER  IV. 

THE   MISSOURI    FROM   TETON   KIVER   TO   THE   MAXDANS. 

Cotincil  willi  the  'V  -ns — Trouble  with  tlicse  Indians — BiiiUhurnorcii  isl.irul  — The  Council 
renewed— Cliaracteristics  of  the  Indi.mi — Smoking,  feasting,  ;ind  d.incinij — Indian  pris- 
oners—Appearaticc  and  dre.^-»  of  the  Indian  men  and  women— Their  lodges— Their  police 
system — Their  attempt  to  detain  the  party— No-timher  creek— Followed  hy  tfie  Tetons — 
The  Cheyenne  river— Sentinel  and  Lookout  creek-.  — Mr.  Valle  — Lookout  Lend— Caution 
islanii  — Many  Indians  about — Good  Hope  island— Old  Kicara  village— \\*hite  Br.int  creek — 
Other  Kicara  villages — "  Cork  "  (Owl)  river— (Irouse  island— Wetarhoo  river — Mr. Grave- 
lines— Visit  of  the  Kicaras— Councils  with  these  Indian-. —Their  three  vill.iges— Their 
char.iiteristics — Civility  of  their  women— Ricara  lodges,  agriculture,  and  trade— Stone-idol 
creek  — Ricara  legend — Hay  creek— Sentence  of  court  martial— More  Kicara  lodges— 
Cheyenne  creek — Hunting  antelope— Cannon-ball  river — Fi-.h  river— Old  Mandan  vil- 
lages—  Indian  superstition — Teton  war-party — Many  old  Indi.m  villages — Pacific  meeting 
of  Nfandan  and  Kicara  chiefsr-.More  Mandan  and  Kicara  villages — The  Expedition  has 
reached  and  will  winter  with  the  Mandans, 

^KEPTEMBER  25th.  The  morning  was  fine,  and  the 
'^  wind  continued  from  the  southeast.  We  raised  a  flag- 
staff and  an  awning,  under  which  \vc  assembled  at  twelve 
o'clock-,  with  all  the  party  parading  under  arms.  The  chiefs 
and  warriors  from  the  camp  two  miles  up  the  river  met 
us,  about  50  or  60  in  number,  and  after  smoking  we 
delivered  them  a  speech  ;  but  as  our  Sioux  interpreter, 
Mr.  Durion,  had  been  left  with  the  Yanktons,  we  were 
obliged  to  make  use  of  a  I'renchman  who  could  not  speak 
fluently,  and  therefore  we  curtailed  our  harangue.  After 
this  we  went  through  the  ceremony  of  acknowledging  the 
chiefs,  by  giving  to  the  grand  chief  a  medal,  a  flag  of  the 
United  States,  a  laced  uniform  coat,  a  cocked  hat  and 
feather ;  to  the  other  two  chiefs,  a  medal  and  some  small 
presents  ;  and  to  two  warriors  of  consideration,  certificates. 
The  name  of  the  great  chief  is  Untongasabaw  or  Black 
Buffalo;  the  second  Tortohonga  or  the  Partisan  ;  the  third 
Tartongawaka  or  Buffalo  Medicine  ;  the  name  of  one  of 
the  warriors  was  Wawzinggo  ;  that  of  the  second  Matoco- 
quepa  or  Second  Bear. 

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THK   FATli   <)!•    TUi:    KXPEIJITION 


133 


> 


We  invited  the  chiefs  on  board  and  showed  them  the 
boat,  the  air-gun,  and  such  curiosities  as  \vc  thought  might 
amuse  them.  In  this  we  succeeded  too  well;  for  after 
giving  tliem  a  quarter  of  a  glass  of  whisky,  which  they 
seemed  to  like  very  much,  and  sucked  the  bottle,  it  was 
with  much  difficulty  that  we  could  get  rid  of  them.  They 
at  last  accompanied  Captain  Clark  on  shore  in  a  periogue 
with  five  men  ;  but  it  seems  they  had  formed  a  design 
(/.  Sj)  to  stop  us ;  for  no  sooner  had  the  party  landed  than 
three  of  the  Indians  seized  the  cable  of  ihe  periogue,  and 
one  of  the  soldiers  of  the  chief  put  his  arms  round  the  mast. 
The  second  chief,  who  affected  intoxication,  then  said  that 
we  should  not  go  on,  that  they  had  not  received  presents 
enough  from  us.  Captain  Clark  told  them  that  we  would 
not  be  prevented  from  going  on  ;  that  we  were  not  squaws, 
but  warriors  ;  that  we  were  sent  by  our  great  father,  who 
could  in  a  moment  exterminate  them.  The  chief  replied 
that  he  too  had  warriors,  and  was  proceeding  to  offer  per- 
sonal violence  to  Captain  Clark,  who  immediately  drew  his 
sword,  and  made  a  signal  to  the  boat  to  prepare  for  action. 
Tiie  Indians  who  surrounded  him  drew  their  arrows  from 
their  quivers  and  were  bending  their  bows,  wlien  the  swivel 
in  the  boat  was  instantly  pointed  toward  them,  and  twelve 
of  our  most  determined  men  jumped  into  the  periogue  to 
join  Captain  Clark.  This  movement  made  an  impression 
on  them,  for  the  grand  chief  ordered  the  young  men  away 
from  the  periogue  ;  they  withdrew  and  held  a  short  council 
with  the  warriors.  Being  unwilling  to  irritate  them,  Cap- 
tain Clark  went  forward  and  offered  his  hand  to  the  first 
and  second  chiefs,  who  refused  to  take  it.  He  turned  from 
them  and  got  into  the  periogue,  but  had  not  gone  more 
than  ten  paces  when  both  the  chiefs  and  two  of  the  war- 
riors waded  in  after  him,  and  he  brought  them  on  board. 
We  then  proceeded  for  a  mile  and  anchored  off  a  willow- 
island,  which  from  the  circumstances  which  had  just 
occurred  we  called  Bad-humored  island.  ' 

'  Gass  relates  tlie  incident  thus  ;   "  Five  of  them  came  on  board  and  remained 


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134 


HANGS  IN   A  TREMBLING  BALANCE. 


September  26th.  Our  conduct  yesterday  seemed  to  have 
inspired  the  Indians  with  fear  of  us,  and  as  we  were  desirous 
of  cultivating  tlieir  acquaintance,  we  complied  with  their 
wish  that  we  should  give  them  an  opportunity  of  treating  us 
well,  and  also  suffer  their  squaws  and  children  to  see  us  and 
our  boat,  which  would  be  perfectly  new  to  them.  Accord- 
about  three  hours.  Captain  Clark  and  some  of  our  men  in  a  periogue  went  ashore 
with  them  ;  but  the  Indians  did  not  seem  disposed  to  permit  their  return.  They 
said  they  were  poor  and  wished  to  keep  the  periogue  with  them.  Captain  Clark 
insisted  on  coming  to  the  boat ;  but  they  refused  to  let  ^lim,  and  said  they  had 
soldiers  as  well  as  he  had.  He  told  them  his  soldiers  were  good,  and  that  he 
had  more  medicine  aboard  his  boat  than  would  kill  twenty  such  nations  in  one 
day.  After  this  they  did  not  threaten  any  more,  and  said  they  only  wanted  us 
to  stop  at  their  lodge,  that  the  women  and  children  might  see  the  boat.  Four 
of  them  came  aboard,  when  we  proceeded  on  a  mile,  and  cast  anchor  at  the 
point  of  an  island  in  the  middle  of  the  river  The  Indians  remained  with  us  all 
night "  (p.  44).  The  situation  was  critical  indeed — much  more  so  than  one 
unfamiliar  with  Sioux  might  gather  from  either  of  the  printed  texts.  Sioux 
string  bows  as  cowboys  draw  their  six-shooters — that  is,  for  instant  use.  Lewis 
was  mettlesome  ;  Clark  had  red  hair,  and  had  been  insulted  ;  both  officers  were 
dauntless,  and  their  men  were  well  disciplined.  Several  lives,  possibly  the 
further  progress  of  the  Expedition,  hung  as  it  were  upon  the  first  twang  of 
a  bowstring.  Clark  B  137-139  is  therefore  worth  publishing:  "  Envited  the 
Chiefs  on  hoard  to  show  them  our  boat  and  such  curiossities  as  was  strange  to 
to  them,  we  gave  them  V  *■  glass  of  whiskey  which  they  appeared  to  be  verry 
ioiid  of,  sucked  the  bottle  after  it  was  out  &  soon  began  to  be  troublesom,  one 
the  2d  chief  assumeing  Drunkness,  as  a  Cloaki  for  his  rascally  intentions.  I 
went  with  those  chiefs  (which  left  the  boat  with  great  reluctiance)  to  shore  with 
a  view  of  reconseleing  those  men  to  us.  as  soon  as  I  landed  the  Perogue  three 
of  their  young  men  seas(d  the  cable  of  the  Perogue,  the  chiefs  soldr.  Huged 
[chief's  soldier  hugged]  tne  mast,  and  the  3d  chief  was  verry  insolent  both  in 
words  &  justures  declareing  I  should  not  go  on,  stateing  he  had  not  received 
presents  sufficient  from  us,  his  justures  were  of  such  a  personal  nature  I  felt 
myself  Compeled  to  Draw  my  sword,  at  this  motion  Capt.  Lewis  ordered  all 
under  arms  in  the  boat,  those  with  me  also  showed  a  disposition  to  Defend 
themselves  and  me,  the  grand  chief  then  took  hold  of  the  roap  &  ordered  the 
young  warrers  away,  I  felt  myself  warn  [warm]  &  spoke  in  very  positive  terms. 
We  proceeded  about  I  mile  iV  anchored  out  off  a  willow  Island  placed  a  guard 
on  shore  to  protect  the  Cooks  &  a  guard  in  the  boat,  fastened  the  Tcrogues  to 
the  Boat,  I  call  this  I>i?and  Bad  humered  Island  as  we  were  in  a  bad  humer." 
Then  in  a  foot-note  :  "  Most  of  the  warrers  appeared  to  have  their  Bows  strung 
and  took  out  their  arrows  from  the  quiver,  as  I  was  not  permited  to  reti'rn,  I 
sent  all  the  men  except  2  Inft.  to  the  boat,  the  perogue  soon  returned  with 
about  12  of  our  determined  men,  ready  for  any  event." 


V 


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RECONCILIATION  OF  THE  OKANDANDAS. 


'35 


ingly,  after  passing  at  lyi  miles  a  small  willow-island  and 
several  sand-bars,  (^.  S4)  we  came-to  on  the  south  side, 
where  a  crowd  of  men,  women,  and  children  were  waiting 
to  receive  us.  Captain  Lewis  went  on  shore  and  remained 
several  hours;  and  observing  that  their  disposition  was 
friendly,  we  resolved  to  remain  during  the  night  for  a 
dance  which  they  were  preparing  for  us. 

Captains  Lewis  and  Clark,  who  went  on  shore  one  after 
the  other,  were  met  on  landing  by  ten  well-dressed  young 
men,  who  took  them  up  in  a  robe  highly  decorated  and 
carried  them  to  a  large  council-house,  where  they  were 
placed  on  a  dressed  buffalo-skin  by  the  side  of  the  grand 
chief.  The  hall  or  council-room  was  in  the  shape  of  three- 
quarters  of  a  circle,  covered  at  the  top  and  sides  with  skins 
v/ell  dressed  and  sewed  together.  Under  this  shelter  sat 
about  70  men,  forming  a  circle  round  the  chief,  before 
whom  were  placed  a  Spanish  flag  and  the  one  we  had  given 
them  yesterday.  This  left  a  vacant  circle  of  about  six  feet 
diam  .ei,  h*  '.vh:r*i  the  pipe  of  peace  was  raised  on  two 
forked  si!  '-  about  six  or  eight  inches  from  the  ground, 
and  under  it  the  down  of  the  swan  was  scattered.  A  large 
fire,  in  which  they  wt  re  cooking  provisions,  stood  near,  and 
in  the  center  about  400  pounds  of  buffalo  meat  as  a  present 
for  us.  As  soon  as  we  were  seated,  an  old  man  got  up,  and 
after  approving  what  we  had  done,  begged  us  take  pity  on 
their  unfortunate  situation.  To  this  we  replied  with  assur- 
ances of  protection.  After  he  had  ceased,  the  great  chief 
rose  and  delivered  a  harangue  to  the  same  effect ;  then  with 
great  solemnity  he  took  some  of  the  most  delicate  parts  of 
the  dog  which  was  cooked  for  the  festival,  and  held  it  to 
the  flag  by  way  of  sacrifice  ;  this  done,  he  held  up  the  pipe 
of  peace,  and  first  pointed  it  toward  the  heavens,  then  to 
the  four  quarters  of  the  globe,  then  to  the  earth,  made  a 
short  speech,  lighted  the  pipe,  and  presented  it  to  us.  We 
smoked,  and  he  again  harangued  his  people,  after  which  the 
repast  was  served  up  to  us.  It  consisted  of  the  dog  which 
the/  had  just  been  cooking,  this  being  a  great  dish  among  the 


li 


II 


f 


^ti 


\  \ 


136 


FEASTING,  SMOKING,  AND   DANCING. 


(/.  Sj)  Sioux,  used  on  all  festivals;  to  which  were  added 
pemitigon  [sic — read  pemtnican],  a  dish  made  of  buffalo- 
meat,  dried  or  jerked  and  then  pounded  and  mixed  raw  with 
grease ;  and  a  kind  of  ground  potato,  dressed  like  the  prep- 
aration of  Indian  corn  called  hominy,  to  which  it  is  little  in- 
ferior. Of  all  these  luxuries,  which  were  placed  before  us 
in  platters,  with  horn  spoons,  we  took  the  pemitigon  and 
the  potato,  which  we  found  good,  but  we  could  as  yet  par- 
take but  sparingly  of  the  dog.  We  eat  and  smoked  for  an 
hour,  when  it  became  dark.  Everything  was  then  cleared 
away  for  the  dance,  a  large  fire  being  made  in  the  center  of 
the  house,  giving  at  once  light  and  warmth  to  the  ballroom. 
The  orchestra  was  composed  of  about  ten  men,  who 
played  on  a  sort  of  tambourine  formed  of  skin  stretched 
across  a  hoop,  and  made  a  jingling  noise  with  a  long  stick 
to  which  the  hoofs  of  deer  and  goats  were  hung ;  the  third 
instrument  was  a  small  skin  bag  with  pebbles  in  it.  These, 
with  five  or  six  young  men  for  the  vocal  part,  made  up  the 
band.  The  women  then  came  forward  highly  decorated  ; 
some  with  poles  in  their  hands,  on  which  were  hung  the 
scalps  of  their  enemies ;  others  with  guns,  spears,  or  different 
trophies,  taken  in  war  by  their  husbands,  brothers,  or  con- 
nections.  Having  arranged  themselves  in  two  columns,  one 
on  each  side  of  the  fire,  as  soon  as  the  music  began  they 
danced  toward  each  other  till  they  met  in  the  center,  when 
the  rattles  were  shaken  and  they  all  shouted  and  returned 
back  to  their  places.  They  have  no  step,  but  shuffle  along 
the  ground ;  nor  does  the  music  appear  to  be  anything 
more  than  a  confusion  of  noises,  distinguished  only  by  hard 
or  gentle  blows  upon  the  buffalo-skin  ;  the  song  is  perfectly 
extemporaneous.  In  the  pauses  of  the  dance,  any  man  of 
the  company  comes  forward  and  recites,  in  a  sort  of  a  low 
guttural  tone,  some  little  story  or  incident,  which  is  either 
martial  or  ludicrous ;  or,  as  was  the  case  this  evening, 
voluptuous  and  indecent ;  this  is  taken  up  by  the  orchestra 
and  the  dancers,  who  repeat  it  in  a  higher  strain  and  dance 
to  it.     (/>.  86)     Sometimes  they  alternate  ;    the  orchestra 


.'1 


INHARMONIOUS   MUSICIANS— OMAHA  PRISONERS.      I37 


first  performing,  and  when  it  ceases,  the  women  raising 
their  voices  and  mai<ing  a  music  more  agreeable — that  is, 
less  intolerable  than  that  of  the  musicians.  The  dances 
of  the  men,  which  are  always  separate  from  those  of  the 
women,  are  conducted  very  nearly  in  the  same  way,  except 
tliat  the  men  jump  up  and  down  instead  of  shuffling  ;  and 
in  the  war-dances  the  recitations  are  all  of  a  military  cast. 
The  harmony  of  the  entertainment  had  nea»"'y  been  dis- 
turbed  by  one  of  the  musicians  who,  think;  ig  he  had  not 
received  a  due  share  of  the  tobacco  we  had  distributed  dur- 
ing the  evening,  put  himself  into  a  passion,  broke  one  of  the 
drums,  threw  two  of  them  into  the  fire,  and  left  the  band. 
They  were  taken  out  of  the  fire  ;  a  buffalo-robe  held  in  one 
hand  and  beaten  with  the  other,  by  several  of  the  company, 
supplied  the  place  of  the  lost  drum  or  tambourine,  and  no 
notice  was  taken  of  the  offensive  conduct  of  the  man.  We 
stayed  till  twelve  o'clock  at  night,  when  we  informed  the 
chiefs  that  they  must  be  fatigued  with  all  these  attempts 
to  amuse  us,  and  retired,  accompanied  by  four  chiefs,  two 
of  whom  spent  the  night  with  us  on  board. 

While  on  shore  we  saw  25  squaws  and  about  the  same 
nnmber  of  children,  who  had  been  taken  prisoners  two 
weeks  ago  in  a  battle  with  their  countrymen,  the  Mahas. 
In  this  enga;^ement  the  Sioux  destroyed  40  lodges,  killed  75 
men,  of  whom  we  saw  many  of  the  scalps,  and  took  these 
prisoners.  Their  appearance  is  wretched  and  dejected  ;  the 
women  too  seem  low  in  stature,  coarse,  and  ugly — though 
their  present  condition  may  diminish  their  beauty.  We 
gave  them  a  variety  of  small  articles,  such  as  awls  and 
needles,  and  interceded  for  them  with  the  chiefs,  to  whom 
we  recommended  to  follow  the  advice  of  their  great  father, 
to  restore  the  prisoners  and  live  in  peace  with  the  Mahas, 
which  they  promised  to  do. 

The  tribe  which  we  this  day  saw  are  a  part  of  the  great 
Sioux  nation,  and  are  known  by  the  name  of  the  Teton 
Okan-(/.  Sj)  dandas.  They  are  about  200  men  in  number, 
and  their  chief  residence  is  on  both  sides  of  the  Missouri 


i 


'!'    J* 


*) 


h  I 


I    I 


('! 


I 


138 


CHAKACl  ERISTICS  OF  THE  OKANDANDAS. 


between  the  Chayenne  and  Teton  rives.  In  their  per- 
sons they  are  rather  ugly  and  ill-made,  their  legs  and  arms 
being  too  small,  their  cheek-bones  high,  and  their  eyes 
projecting.  The  females,  with  the  same  character  of  form, 
are  more  handsome,  and  both  sexes  appear  cheerful  and 
sprightly  ;  but  in  our  intercourse  with  them  we  discovered 
that  they  were  cunning  and  vicious. 

The  men  shave  the  hair  oiT  their  heads,  except  a  small 
tuft  on  the  top,  which  they  suffer  to  grow  and  wear  in  plaits 
over  the  shoulders ;  to  this  they  seem  much  attached,  as 
the  loss  of  it  is  the  usual  sacrifice  at  the  death  of  near 
relations.  In  full  dress,  the  men  of  consideration  wear  a 
hawk's  feather  or  calumet '  feather,  worked  with  porcupine- 
quills,  and  fastened  to  the  top  of  the  head,  from  which  it 
falls  back.  The  face  and  body  are  generally  painted  with  a 
mixture  of  grease  and  coal.  Over  the  shoulders  is  a  loose 
robe  or  mantle  of  buiTalo-skin  dressed  white,  adorned  with 
porcupine-quills  loosely  fixed  so  as  to  make  a  jingling  noise 
when  in  motion,  and  pa  nted  with  various  uncouth  figures 
unintelligible  to  us,  but  to  them  emblematic  of  military 
exploits  or  some  other  incident.  The  hair  of  the  robe  is 
worn  next  the  skin  in  fair  weather,  but  when  it  rains  the 
hair  is  put  outside,  and  the  robe  is  either  thrown  over  the 
arm  or  wrapped  round  the  body,  all  of  which  it  may  cover. 
Under  this  in  the  winter  season  they  wear  a  kind  of  a  shirt 
resembling  ours,  made  either  of  skin  or  cloth,  and  covering 
the  arms  and  body.  Round  the  middle  is  fixed  a  girdle  of 
cloth  or  dressed  elk-skin,  about  an  inch  in  width,  closely 
tied  to  the  body ;  to  this  is  attached  a  piece  of  cloth  or 
blanket  or  skin,  about  a  foot  wide,  which  passes  between 
the  legs  and  is  tucked  under  the  girdle  both  before  and 
behind  ;  from  the  hip  to  the  ankle  he  is  covered  by  leggings 
of  dressed  antelope-skins,  with  seams  at  the  sides  two 
inches  in  width,  ornamented  by  little  tufts  of  hair,  the  prod- 
uce of  the  scalps  (/.  88)  taken  in  war,  whicli  are  scattered 

*  The  feathers  most  prized  as  calumets  are  the  tail-feathers  of  the  golden  eagle, 
At/iiila  chrysaetos,  which  are  about  a  foot  long  and  white,  tipped  with  black. 


'..! 


OKANDANDA   DRESS— KINIKINIK. 


«39 


down  the  leg.  The  winter  moccasins  are  of  dressed  buffalo- 
skin,  the  hair  being  worn  invvard,  and  soled  with  thick  elk- 
skin  parchment ;  those  for  summer  are  of  deer  or  elk-skin, 
dressed  without  the  hair,  and  with  soles  of  elk-skin.  On 
great  occasions,  or  whenever  they  are  in  full  dress,  the 
young  men  drag  after  them  the  entire  skin  of  a  polecat 
fixed  to  the  heel  of  the  moccasin.  Another  skin  of  the 
same  animal,  either  tucked  into  the  girdle  or  carried  in  the 
hand,  serves  as  a  pouch  for  their  tobacco,  or  what  the  French 
traders  call  bois  roule.'  This  is  the  inner  bark  of  a  species 
of  red  willow,  which,  being  dried  in  the  sun  or  over  the  fire, 
is  rubbed  between  the  hands  and  broken  into  small  pieces, 
and  used  alone  or  mixed  with  tobacco.  The  pipe  is  gen- 
erally of  red  earth,  the  stem  made  of  ash,  about  three  or 
four  feet  long,  and  highly  decorated  with  feathers,  hair, 
and  porcupine-quills. 

The  hair  of  the  women  is  suffered  to  grow  long  and  is 
parted  from  the  forehead  across  the  head,  at  the  back  of 
which  it  is  either  collected  into  a  kind  of  a  bag,  or  hangs 
down  over  the  shoulders.  Their  moccasins  are  like  those 
of  the  men,  as  are  also  the  leggings,  which  do  not,  however, 


•  Read  bois  roule,  rolled  wood  ;  "  bau  roly  "  of  Clark  B  141  ;  best  known  to  us 
by  the  name  of  kinikinik,  as  it  may  be  most  phonetically  spelled.  This  renders 
an  Algonquian  word  meaning  "a  mixture,"  or  "  that  which  is  mixed."  It 
varies  in  orthography  to  a  dozen  or  more  forms,  with  doubling  of  one  or  both 
»;'s,  substitution  of  single  or  double  /  for  each  «,  and  use  of  c  for  or  before  a  k, 
etc.  A  form  before  me  is  kinnecanick  ;  but  the  vowels  are  in  this  word  more 
stable  than  the  consonants,  contrary  to  the  rule.  Kinikinik  is  what  the 
Indians  smoke  as  we  do  tobacco,  whatever  that  may  be.  It  is  usually  poor 
tobacco  mixed  with  scrapings  or  shavings  of  various  other  plants.  These  are, 
somewhat  in  the  order  of  their  comparative  frequency  of  use  :  I.  The  smooth 
sumac,  Rhus ,t;l<tl>ra,  whose  crumbled  leaves  are  used.  a.  The  silky  cornel  or 
dogwood,  or  so-called  red-willow,  Conius  sericea,  and  related  species  of  Ccrnus, 
as  C.  stolonifera,  or  red-osier  dogwood,  of  which  the  scraped  inner  bark  is  used. 
3.  The  bear-berrj,  Arctostciphylos  uva-ursi,  a  trailing  ericaccous  shrub,  herein- 
after called  sacacommis ;  the  scraped  bark  used.  4.  Species  of  arrow-wood  or 
Viburnum.  The  various  ingredients,  properly  taken  from  the  respective  plants 
and  dried,  are  nibbed  up  in  the  hands  as  we  would  treat  natural  leaf  tobacco, 
and  then  put  in  the  pipw.  The  Omaha  name  of  the  mixture  is  ninnegabe, 
sometimes  found  as  an  English  word. 


1 


m 


1^1 


140 


OKANDANDA   LODGES,  ETC. 


reach  beyond  the  knee,  where  they  are  met  by  a  long  loose 
shift  of  skin  which  reaches  nearly  to  the  ankles ;  this  is 
fastened  over  the  shoulders  by  a  string  and  has  no  sleeves, 
but  a  few  pieces  of  the  skin  hang  a  short  distance  down 
the  arms.  Sometimes  a  girdle  fastens  this  skin  around 
the  waist,  and  over  all  is  thrown  a  robe  like  that  worn 
by  the  men.    They  seem  fond  of  dress. 

Thsir  lodges  are  very  neatly  constructed,  in  the  same 
form  as  those  of  the  Yankcons;  they  consist  of  about 
100  cabins,  made  of  white  buffalo-hide  dressed,  with  a 
larger  one  in  the  center  for  holding  councils  and  dances. 
They  are  built  round,  with  poles  about  15  or  20  feet  high, 
covered  with  white  skins.  These  lodges  may  be  taken  to 
pieces,  packed  up,  and  carried  with  the  nation  wherever 
they  go,  by  dogs,  which  bear  great  burdens.*  The  women 
are  chiefly  employed  in  dressing  buffalo-skins;  they  seem 
perfectly  well  disposed,  but  are  addicted  to  stealing  any- 
thing which  they  can  take  without  being  observed.  This 
nation,  although  it  makes  so  many  ravages  among  its  neiph- 
bors,  is  badly  supplied  with  guns.  The  water  which  they 
carry  with  them  is  contained  chiefly  in  the  paunches  of 
deer  and  other  animals,  and  they  make  use  of  wooden 
bowls.  Some  had  their  heads  shaved,  which  we  found  was 
a  species  of  mourning  for  relations.  Another  usage,  on 
these  occasions,  is  to  run  arrows  through  the  flesh  both 
above  and  below  the  elbow. 

While  on  shore  to-day  we  witnessed  a  quarrel  between 
two  squaws,  which  appeared  to  be  growing  every  moment 
more  boisterous,  when  a  man  came  forward,  at  whose 
approach  everyone  seemed  terrified  and  ran.  He  took  the 
squaws  and  without  any  ceremony  whipped  them  severely. 
On  inquiring  into  the  nature  of  such  summary  justice,  we 

*  Gass  adds,  under  date  of  Sept.  28th  :  "  While  I  was.it  the  Indian  camp  yes- 
terday they  yoked  a  dog  to  a  kind  of  car,  which  they  have  to  haul  their  bagjj.njje 
from  one  camp  to  another  ;  the  nation  having  no  settled  place  or  village,  but  .ire 
always  moving  about.  The  dogs  are  not  large,  much  resemble  a  wolf,  and  will 
haul  about  70  pounds  each." 


i 


OKANDANDA   POLICE  SYSTEM. 


141 


)ng  loose 
I ;  this  is 
3  sleeves, 
ice  down 
n  around 
liat  worn 

the  same 
of  about 
I,  with    a 
id  dances, 
feet  high, 
;  taken  to 
wherever 
he  women 
they  seem 
aling  any- 
red.     This 
;  its  neiph  • 
hich  they 
unches   of 
)f  wooden 
found  was 
usage,  on 
esh  both 

between 

•y  moment 

at   whose 

took  the 

severely. 

lustice,  we 


Han  camp  yes- 
their  bagR-nse 
ilLiRC,  but  .ire 
wolf,  and  will 


learned  that  this  man  was  an  officer  well  known  to  this  and 
many  other  tribes.  His  duty  is  to  keep  the  peace,  and  the 
whole  interior  police  of  the  village  is  confided  to  two  or 
three  of  these  officers,  who  are  named  by  the  chief  and 
remain  in  power  some  days,  at  least  till  the  chief  appoints 
a  successor.  They  seem  to  be  a  sort  of  constable  or  senti- 
nel,  since  they  are  always  on  the  watch  to  keep  tranquillity 
during  the  day  and  guard  the  camp  in  the  night.  The 
short  duration  of  the  office  is  compensated  by  its  authority. 
His  power  is  supreme,  and  in  the  suppression  of  any  riot  or 
disturbance  no  resistance  to  him  is  suffered  ;  his  person  is 
sacred,  and  if  in  the  execution  of  his  duty  he  strikes  even  a 
chief  of  the  second  class,  he  cannot  be  punished  for  this 
salutary  insolence.  In  general  he  accompanies  the  person 
of  the  chief,  and  when  ordered  to  any  duty,  however  dan- 
gerous, it  is  a  point  of  honor  rather  to  die  than  to  refuse 
obedience.  Thus,  when  they  attempted  to  stop  us  yes- 
terday, the  chief  ordered  one  of  these  men  to  take  pos- 
session of  the  boat ;  he  immediately  put  his  arms  around  the 
(a  P^)  "last,  and,  as  we  understood,  no  force  except  the 
command  of  the  chief  would  have  induced  him  to  release 
his  hold.  Like  the  other  men  his  body  is  blackened,  but  his 
distinguishing  mark  is  a  collection  of  two  or  three  raven- 
skins  fixed  to  the  girdle  behind  the  back  in  such  a  way  that 
the  tails  stick  out  horizontally  from  the  body.  On  his  head 
too  is  a  raven-skin  split  into  two  parts,  and  tied  so  as  to  let 
the  beak  project  from  the  forehead. 

September  ijth.  We  rose  early,  and  the  two  chiefs  took 
off,  as  a  matter  of  course  and  according  to  their  custom,  the 
blanket  on  which  they  had  slept.  To  this  we  added  a  peck 
of  corn  as  a  present  to  each.  Captain  Lewis  and  the  chiefs 
went  on  shore  to  see  a  part  of  the  nation  that  was  expected, 
but  did  not  come.  He  returned  at  two  o'clock,  with  four 
of  the  chiefs,  and  a  warrior  of  distinction  called  Wadrapa, 
or  On  His  Guard;  they  examined  the  boat  and  admired 
whatever  was  strange,  during  half  an  hour,  when  they  left 
it  with  great  reluctance.     Captain  Clark  accompanied  them 


H2 


ANOTHER  COLLISION  THREATENED. 


to  the  lodge  of  the  grand  chief,  who  invited  them  to  a  dance, 
where,  being  joined  by  Captain  Lewis,  they  remained  till  u 
late  hour.  The  dance  was  very  similar  to  that  of  yesterday. 
About  twelve  we  left  them,  taking  the  second  chief  and  one 
principal  warrior  on  board.  As  we  came  near  the  boat  the 
man  who  steered  the  periogue,  by  mistake,  brought  her 
broadside  against  the  boat's  cable  and  broke  it.  We  called 
up  all  hands  to  their  oars;  our  noise  alarmed  the  two 
Indians ;  they  called  out  to  their  companions,  and  imme- 
diately the  whole  camp  crowded  to  the  shore  ;  but  after  half 
an  hour  they  returned,  leaving  about  sixty  men  near  us. 
The  alarm  given  by  the  chiefs  was  said  to  be  that  the  Mahas 
had  attacked  us,  and  that  they  were  desirous  of  assisting 
us  to  repel  the  assault ;  but  we  suspected  that  they  were 
afraid  we  meant  to  set  sail  and  intended  to  prevent  us  from 
doing  so ;  for  in  the  night  the  Maha  prisoners  had  told  one 
of  our  men,  who  understood  their  language,  that  we  were 
to  be  stopped.  We  therefore,  (/.  p/)  without  giving  any 
indications  of  our  suspicion,  prepared  everything  for  an 
attack,  as  the  loss  of  our  anchor  obliged  us  to  come-to  near 
a  falling  bank,  very  unfavorable  for  defense.  We  were  not 
mistaken  in  these  opinions;  for  when  in  the  morning, 

Friday,  September  28///,  after  dragging  unsuccessfully  for 
the  anchor,  we  wished  to  set  sail,  it  was  with  great  difficulty 
that  we  could  make  the  chiefs  leave  the  boat.  At  length 
we  got  rid  of  all  except  the  great  chief ;  when,  just  as  we 
were  setting  out,  several  of  the  chief's  soldiers  sat  on  the 
rope  which  held  the  boat  to  the  shore.  Irritated  at  this, 
we  got  everything  ready  to  fire  on  them  if  they  persisted  ; 
but  the  great  chief  said  that  these  were  his  soldiers  and  only 
wanted  some  tobacco.  We  had  already  refused  a  flag  and 
some  tobacco  to  the  second  chief,  who  had  demanded  them 
with  great  importunity  ;  but,  willing  to  leave  them  without 
going  to  extremities, we  threw  him  a  carrot  of  tobacco,  saying 
to  him,  "You  told  us  that  you  are  a  great  man  and  have 
influence  ;  now  show  your  influence,  by  taking  the  rope  from 
those  men,  and  we  will  then  go  without  any  further  trou- 


k 


io 


AN   ULTIMATUM— NO-TIMBER  CRKEK. 


•43 


ble."  This  .ippcal  to  his  pride  had  the  desired  effect ;  he 
went  out  of  the  boat,  gave  his  soldiers  the  tobacco,  and 
pulling  the  rope  out  of  their  hands  delivered  it  on  board. 

We  then  set  sail  under  a  breeze  from  the  S.E.  After  sail- 
ing about  two  miles  wu  observed  the  third  chief  beckoning 
to  us;  we  took  him  on  board,  and  he  informed  us  tliat  the 
rope  had  been  held  by  the  order  of  the  second  chief,  who 
was  a  double-faced  man.  A  little  further  on  we  were  joined 
by  the  son  of  this  chief,  who  came  on  board  to  sec  his 
father.  On  his  return  we  sent  a  speech  to  the  nation, 
explaining  what  we  had  done  and  advising  them  to  peace  ; 
but  [assuring  them  thatj  if  they  persisted  in  their  attempts 
to  stop  us,  we  were  willing  and  able  to  defend  ourselves. 
After  making  six  miles,  during  which  we  passed  a  willow- 
island  on  the  south  and  one  sand-bar,  we  camped  on 
another  in  the  mid-  {p.  p3)  die  of  the  river.  The  country  on 
the  south  side  was  a  low  prairie,  that  on  the  north,  high  land. 

September  igth.  We  set  out  early,  but  were  again  im- 
peded by  sand-bars,  which  made  the  river  shallow ;  the 
weather  was, however,  fair;  the  land  on  the  north  side,  low, 
and  covered  with  timber,  contrasted  with  the  bluffs  to  the 
south.  At  nine  o'clock  we  saw  the  second  chief  and  two 
women  and  three  men  on  siiore,  who  wished  us  to  take  the 
two  women  offered  by  the  second  chief  to  make  friends, 
which  was  refused.  He  then  requested  us  to  take  them  to 
the  other  band  of  their  nation,  who  were  on  the  river  not 
far  from  us;  this  we  declined,  but  in  spite  of  our  wishes 
they  followed  us  along  the  shore.  The  chief  asked  us  to 
give  them  some  tobacco ;  this  we  did,  and  gave  more  as  a 
present  for  that  part  of  the  nation  which  we  did  not  see. 
At  7^  miles  we  came  to  a  small  creek  on  the  southern  side, 
where  we  saw  great  numbers  of  elk,  and  which  we  called 
No-timber  creek  [in  Stanley  Co.]  from  its  bare  appearance. 
Above  the  mouth  of  this  stream,  a  Ricara'  band  of  Pawnees 


i 

n 


'  "  .\ricaris,  commonly  called  Kickarees,  Rickrees,  or  Rees,"Gass,  p.  48  ;  the 
codices  variant,  as  usual.  The  accepted  spelling  is  now  Arikara.  "  No  timber" 
is  now  Chankie  or  Chanker  creek  ;  this  name  clipped  from  Sioux  Tschehkana- 


f^ 


li! 


'II  i 


144 


ARIKARA   INDIANS. 


had  a  village  five  years  ago ;  but  there  arr  no  remains  of 
it  except  the  mound  which  encircled  the  town.  Here 
the  second  chief  went  on  shore.  We  then  proceeded,  and 
at  the  distance  of  1 1  miles  camped  on  the  lower  part  of 
a  willow-island  [Okobojou],  in  the  middle  of  the  river, 
being  obliged  to  substitute  large  stones  in  the  place  of 
the  anchor  which  we  lost. 

September  loth.  The  wind  was  this  morning  very  high 
from  the  southeast,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to  proceed 
under  a  double-reefed  mainsail,  through  the  rain.  The 
country  presented  a  large  low  prairie  covered  with  timber 
on  the  north  side;  on  the  south, we  first  had  high  barren 

kaiahtapah  (so  Maximilian),  meaninff  breech-clout.  The  Arikarat  are  now  con- 
fined to  a  small  village  on  the  Fort  Uerthold  Keiervation,  N.  I).,  which  they 
share  with  the  Mandans  and  Hidatsans.  They  are  the  remnarti  of  ten  different 
tribes  of  Pawnees  (of  the  Northern  group  of  Caddoan  stock),  driven  by  the 
Sioux  from  their  country  lower  down  the  Missouri,  near  the  habitat  of  the 
I'onras,  in  what  is  now  northern  Nebraska.     They  numbered  448  in  1889. 

Lewis'  Statistical  View  of  1806  makes  the  name  Kicir&o,  giving  Stir-rlh-he 
as  a  primitive  form,  and  La  Kee  (Lea  Ree<>)  as  the  French  nickname.  He  sayi 
they  speak  I'ania  (Pawnee)  with  a  different  accent,  and  have  words  peculiar  to 
themselves.  They  had  in  1804  three  villages,  wiih  500  warriors  and  c  total 
population  of  2, 600,  on  the  S.W.  bank  of  the  Missouri.  1,440  miles  by  his 
estimate  from  its  mouth.  Lewis  remarks  (item  "S"  of  his  tabic-)  that  ihey 
"  are  the  remains  of  ten  large  tribes  of  Panias  who  have  been  reduced,  by  the 
small|x>x  and  the  Sioux,  to  their  present  number.  They  live  in  fortified  vil- 
lages, and  hunt  immediately  in  their  neighbourhood.  .  .  .  The  remains  of  the 
villages  of  these  people  are  to  be  seen  on  many  parts  of  the  Missouri  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Tetone  river  to  the  Mandans.  They  claim  no  land  except  that  on 
which  their  villages  stand,  and  the  fields  which  they  cultivate.  Though  they 
are  the  oldest  inhabitants,  they  may  properly  be  considered  the  farmers  or 
tenants  at  will  of  that  lawless,  savage  and  rapacious  race  the  Sioux  Teton, 
who  rob  them  of  their  horses,  plunder  their  gardens  and  fields  and  some- 
times murder  them,  without  opposition.  If  these  people  were  freed  from  the 
oppression  of  the  Tetons,  their  trade  would  increase  rapidly,  and  might  be 
extended  to  a  considers '^!e  amount.  They  maintain  a  partial  trade  with  their 
oppressors  the  Tetons,  to  whom  they  barter  horses,  mules,  corn,  beans  and 
a  species  of  tobacco  which  they  cultivate  ;  and  receive  in  return  guns,  am- 
munition, kettles,  axes,  and  other  articles  which  the  Tetons  obtain  from  the 
Yanktons  of  the  N.  and  Sissatones,  who  trade  with  Mr.  Cammeron,  on  the 
river  St  Peters.  These  horses  and  mules  the  Ricaras  obtain  from  their 
Western  neighbours,  who  visit  them  frequently  for  the  purpose  of  trafficking." 


APOLOGETIC   ANO  TERKIFIEU   TETONS. 


US 


hills,  but  tftcr  some  miles  it  [the  country]  became  of  the 
same  character  as  that  of  the  opposite  side.  We  had  not 
gone  far  when  an  Indian  ran  after  us  and  begged  to  be  car- 
ried on  board  as  far  as  the  Ricaras,  which  we  refused  ; 
soon  after,  we  discovered  on  the  hills  at  a  distance  a 
great  number  of  Indians,  who  came  toward  the  river  and 
camped  ahead  of  us.  We  stopped  (/.  pj)  at  a  sand-bar,  at 
about  1 1  miles,  and  after  breakfasting  proceeded  on  a  short 
distance  to  their  camp,  which  consisted  of  about  4(X>  souls. 

We  anchored  lOO  yards  from  the  shore  ;  and  discovering 
that  they  were  Tetons  belonging  t.  tiie  band  which  we 
had  just  left,  we  told  them  that  we  took  them  by  the  hand, 
and  would  make  each  chief  a  present  of  tobacco  ;  that  wc 
had  been  badly  treated  by  some  of  their  band,  and  that 
having  waited  for  two  days  below  we  could  not  stop  here, 
but  referred  them  to  Mr.  Durion  for  our  talk  and  an  expla- 
nation of  our  views.  They  then  apologized  for  what  had 
passed,  and  assured  us  that  they  were  friendly  and  very 
desirous  that  we  should  land  and  eat  with  them.  This  we 
refused,  but  sent  the  periogue  on  shore  with  the  tobacco, 
which  was  delivered  to  one  of  the  soldiers  of  the  chief 
whom  we  had  on  board.  Several  of  them  now  ran  along  the 
shore  after  us,  but  the  chief  threw  them  a  twist  of  tobacco, 
and  told  them  to  go  back  and  open  their  ears  to  our  coun- 
sels; on  which  they  immediately  returned  to  their  lodges. 

We  then  proceeded  past  a  continuation  of  the  low 
prairie  on  the  north,  where  we  had  large  quantities  of 
grapes,  and  on  the  south  [read  north]  saw  a  small  creek  and 
an  island.  Six  miles  above  this,  two  Indians  came  to  the 
bank,  looked  at  us  about  a  half  an  hour,  and  then  went, 
without  speciking,  over  the  hills  to  the  southwest.  After 
some  time,  the  wind  rose  still  higher,  and  the  boat  struck  a 
log,  turned,  and  was  very  near  taking  in  water.  The  chief 
became  ^o  much  terrified  at  the  danger  that  he  hid  himself 
in  the  boat,  and  as  soon  as  we  landed  got  his  gun  and  told 
ns  that  he  wanted  to  return  ;  that  we  would  now  see  no 
more  Tetons,  and  that  we  might  proceed  unmolested.     We 


i 


M 


Ji 


4 


. 


146 


lAMA  OR   CHEYENNE  ISLAND— CHEYENNE   KIVER. 


repeated  tlie  advice  we  had  alieady  given,  presented  him 
uitii  a  blanket,  a  knife,  and  some  tobacco,  and  after  smok- 
ing with  us  he  set  out.  We  then  continued  to  a  sand-bar 
on  tlie  nortli  side,  where  we  camped,  having  come  20j^ 
miles."  In  the  course  of  tlie  day  we  saw  a  number  of  sand- 
(/.  94)  bars  which  impeded  navigation.  The  only  animal 
we  observed  was  the  white  gull,  then  in  great  abundance. 

Moitddv,  October  \st,  1804.  The  weather  was  very  cold 
and  the  wind  high  from  the  southeast  during  the  night, 
continuing  so  this  morning.  At  three  miles'  distance  we 
liad  passed  a  large  island  '  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  oppo- 
site the  lower  end  of  which  the  Ricaras  once  had  a  village 
on  the  south  side  of  tlie  river  ;  there  are,  however,  no  rem- 
nants of  it  now  except  a  circular  wall,  three  or  four  feet  in 
height,  which  encompassed  the  town.  Two  miles  beyond 
this  island  is  a  river  coming  in  from  the  southwest,  about 
400  yards  wide  ;  the  current  is  gentle,  discharging  not  much 
welter  and  very  little  sand.  It  takes  its  rise  in  the  second 
range  of  the  Cote  [Cote]  Noire  or  Black  mountains,  and  its 
t^eneral  course  is  nearly  east.  This  river  has  beer,  occa- 
sionally called  Dog  river,  under  a  mistaken  opinion  that  i's 

•,\nd  havinjj  passed,  first.  Cow  creek  (Spring  creek  of  Heap's  map),  small, 
in  Sully  Co..  its  mouth  at  point  of  Hughes  Co. ;  next,  Okobojou  creek,  large, 
on  which  is  Clifton,  rounty  town  of  Sully  ;  thirdly,  the  "small  creek  and  an 
island.  "  This  creek,  on  the  >i:^hl,  in  Sully  Co.,  is  the  site  of  the  important  post 
Fort  Sully,  in  the  Military  Reservation — to  be  distinguished  from  old  Fort 
Sully,  below  the  Teton  river.  The  island  is  that  now  called  Stanley  island. 
Clark  V>  165-170,  Sejit.  30th,  has  no  mention  of  any  creek  in  connection  with 
this  island.  There  are  in  f.ict  several  creeks  from  tlie  "  south  "  (west),  but 
these  are  in  Stanley  Co.,  above  Stanley  island  and  Fort  Sully,  and  below  the 
Cheyenne.  The  largest  of  these  is  mai.sjd  on  the  (I.  I..  O.  map  Dry  creek, 
with  the  Cheyenne  Agency  at  its  mouth.     To-day's  camp  is  in  Lookout  Rend. 

'  Clark  I!  165,  last  course  and  dist.ince  of  Sept.  30th  :  "  N.  50"  W.  2%  mis. 
to  the  Lower  pt.  of  Pania  Island  situated  in  themidl.  of  the  river  ;"  and  171,  first 
course  an<l  dist.ince  of  Oct.  1st  :  "  N.  8n°  \V.  3  mis.  to  the  upper  pt.  of  a  large 
island  in  the  River."  So  this  is  "  rani,'\  "  island  of  the  codex,  which  makes  it 
three  miles  long.  It  shows  plainly  on  Lewis'  map,  1806,  and  Clark's,  1814,  where 
the  .Arik.ira  vill.age  is  marked;  Nicollet's  map  charts  it,  nameless  ;  \Varrcn's  map 
letters  Shyenne.  now  spelled  Cheyenne.  Ily  the  codex  its  upper  point  is  two  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  "  Chien  or  Dog  river,"  with  which  the  Biddle  text  agrees. 


I 


i 


^ 


CHEYENNE    INDIANS. 


>47 


French  name  was  Chien  ;  but  its  true  appellation  is  Chay. 
eniie,'  and  it  derives  this  title  from  tlie  Chayenne  Indians. 
Tlieir  history  is  the  short  and  melancholy  relation  of  the 
calamities  of  almost  all  the  Indians.  They  were  a  numer- 
ous people  and  lived  on  the  Chayenne,  a  branch  of  the 
Red  river  of  Lake  Winnipeg.  The  invasion  of  the  Sioux 
drove  them  westward  ;  in  their  progress  they  halted  on 
the  southern  side  of  the  Missouri  below  the  Warreconne, 
where  their  ancient  fortifications  still  exist ;  but  the  same 
impulse  again  drove  them  to  the  heads  of  the  Chayenne, 
where  they  now  rove  and  occasionally  visit  the  Ricaras. 
They  are  now  reduced,  but  still  number  300  men.' 


sni.ill, 

larfjc, 

and  an 

t  post 

Fort 

sland. 

with 

\).  but 

o\v  the 

creek, 

Ik-nd. 

yi  mis. 

I.  first 

l.irfje 

akes  it 

where 


i 


"  So  Biddle  text  tbrouj;hout  ;  in  Gass,  De  Chien  ;  in  Brackenridge.  Chienne. 
Clark  B  172  has  "the  Kiver  >'!'hien  (or  Dog  River)."  but  the  codices  yield  various 
forms  of  the  word  ;  Schain  is  one  old  form;  Chaguyenne  and  Chaguiene  are 
others.  Cheyenne  is  now  the  accepted  spelling.  The  Dakotan  Indian  name 
means  Good  river,  by  antithesis  with  the  Bad  (Teton)  river,  already  tre,ited  in 
this  work.  Lewis'  map.  1806.  k'lters  Sharha  or  Chyenne  ;  Clark's.  1814,  gives 
Chayenne  ;  on  neither  of  these  is  the  course  well  charted.  The  upper  reaches 
are  far  out  of  the  way  on  the  earlier  of  these  maps,  where  they  were  laid  down, 
of  course,  from  hearsay,  and  the  main  course  is  south  instead  of  north  of  east. 
Nicollet  has  Shnyen.  Wastegor  Good  river;  Warren  and  Reynolds  both  h.ive 
Big  Shyenne,  Wakpa  Washte  or  liood  river  (where  the  antithesis  of  I'.ig  is  the 
Little  Cheyenne,  for  which  see  beyond).  This  is  a  great  river,  whose  two  main 
and  about  equal  forks,  the  North  and  the  South,  embrace  the  Black  hills  proper, 
and  drain  these  outliers  of  the  Rockies  by  unnumbered  tributaries.  The  united 
waters  flow  about  E.N.K.  to  join  those  of  the  Missouri  in  Stanley  Co.,  where 
there  is  the  notable  tlcxure  of  the  latter  river,  known  as  the  Little  (or  Lookout) 
Bend,  whose  bight  faces  in  the  opposite  direction  from  that  of  the  Great  Bend. 

'The  Cheyennes  are  Indians  of  a  different  linguistic  stock  from  any  we 
have  thus  far  met  in  this  work,  excepting  only  the  Arapahoes.  These  two, 
Cheyennes  and  .\rapahoes.  are  of  the  Algonquian  stock.  They  became  sep- 
anted  from  their  kindred  by  forcing  their  way  through  hostile  tribes,  and 
formed  outliers  of  the  Algonquian  faniilv  across  the  Missouri  into  what  is 
now  the  Black  Hills  country  of  South  Dakota,  and  parts  of  Wyoming  and 
Colorado,  thus  interpolating  themselves  between  Siouan  tribes  behind  them  and 
Shoshonean  tribes  in  front,  and  having  on  the  one  hand  the  Kiowan  tribes,  and 
on  the  other  the  Middle  Caddo..ns  (I'awnees). 

In  this  place  may  be  offered  some  gcner.il  remarks,  b.ised  on  Powell  s 
monograjih,  concerning  the  Algonquian  family.  The  name  is  contracted  from 
Algonequin,  an  .\lgoiikin  wop^,  meaning  those  across  the  river — that  is,  tl  e  St. 
Lawrence.     The  prcs?nt  total  01   a.l  the  Algonquian  tribes  is  about  95,600,  of 


( 


1^' 


'i 


. 


14S 


CHEYENNE  RIVER  AND  INDIANS. 


Although  the  river  does  not  seem  to  throw  out  much 
sand,  yet  near  and  above  its  mouth  we  find  a  great  many 
sand-bars  difficult  to  pass.  On  both  sides  of  the  Missouri, 
near  the  Chayenne,  are  rich,  thinly-timbered  lowlands, 
behind  which  are  bare  hills.  As  we  proceeded,  we  found 
that  the  sand-bars  made  the  river  so  shallow,  and  the  wind 
was  so  high,  that  we  could  scarcely  find  the  channel ;  at  one 
place  were  forced  to  drag  the  boat  over  a  (/.  pj)  sand-bar, 
the  Missouri  being  very  wide  and  falling  a  little.  At  7^ 
miles  we  came-to  at  a  point  and  remained  three  hours,  dur- 
ing which  time  the  wind  abated ;  we  then  passed  within 

whom  60,000  are  in  Canada  and  the  rest  in  the  United  States.  The  tribes 
and  subtribes  are  extremely  numerous.  The  principal  of  these  are,  in  alpha- 
betical order:  Abnaki,  Algonkin  proper,  Arapahc,  Cheyenne,  Conoy,  Cree, 
Delaware,  Fox,  Illinois,  Kickapoo,  Mahican,  Massachuset,  Menominee, 
Miami,  Micmac,  Mohegan,  Montignais,  Montauk,  Munsee,  Nantikoke,  Narra- 
ganset,  Nauset,  Nipmuc,  Ojibwa,  Ottawa,  Pamlico,  Pennacook,  Pequot, 
Piankishaw,  Fottawottomi,  Powhatan,  Sac,  Shawnee,  Siksika,  Wampanoag, 
Wappinger.  Among  these  names  are  some  of  our  most  familiar  Indian  words, 
and  many  place-names  not  less  familiar  are  derived  from  the  same  linguistic 
stock.  The  area  occupied  by  the  Algonquian  family  was  more  extensive  than 
that  of  any  other  linguistic  stock  in  North  America,  extending  from  Labrador 
to  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  from  Churchill  river  of  Hudson's  bay  to  North 
Carolina.  In  the  eastern  part  of  this  vast  area  was  a  region  occupied  by 
Iroquoian  tribes,  almost  surrounded  by  their  Algonquian  neighbors.  On  the 
south  the  Algonquians  were  bounded  by  tribes  of  Iroquoian  stock,  and  one  of 
Siouan  stock  (Catawba) ;  on  the  southwest  and  west  by  Muskhogean  and 
Siouan  tribes  ;  northwest  by  the  Kitunahan  and  great  Athapascan  families  ; 
elsewhere  they  came  in  contact  with  the  Eskimo.  In  Newfoundland  the 
Algonquian  stock  met  the  single  tribe  of  Beothukan  stock.  A  portion  of 
the  Shawnees  had  early  separated  from  the  main  body  in  central  Tennessee, 
:;nd  pushed  on  down  the  Savannah  river  in  South  Carolina,  where  they 
became  known  as  Savannahs,  and  warred  with  surrounding  tribes  till  about 
1700,  when  they  were  driven  off  and  joined  the  Delaware  Indians.  The  rest  of 
the  Shawnee  tribe  was  expelled  by  the  Cherokee  and  Chickasaw  soon  afterward. 
Turning  now  to  Lewis'  Statistical  View,  we  find  he  gives  Chyennes,  with 
a  form  Shar'-ha  as  primitive,  and  the  French  nickname  "la  chien  "  (/.  f.,  le 
chien.  fern,  la  chienne,  pi.  les  chiensor  les  chiennes,  dogs,  bitches).  He  notes 
their  language  by  an  asterisk,  signifying  "primitive"  in  his  schedule.  He 
enumerates  no  lodges,  300  warriors,  total  1,200,  and  locates  the  tribe  about 
the  sources  of  the  Cheyenne,  now  in  the  Black  hills.  He  puts  them  at  peace 
with  all  their  neighbors  except  the  Sioux,  with  whom  they  were  waging 
defensive  warfare,  and  adds  :  "  They  are  the  remnant  of  a  nation  once  respect- 


u 


SENTINEL   AND   LOOK<     'T   CREEKS. 


149 


four  miles  two  creeks  on  the  south,  one  of  which  we 
called  Centinel '°  creek,  and  the  other  Lookout  "  creek. 
This  part  of  the  river  has  brt  little  timber ;  the  hills 
are  not  so  high  as  we  have  hitherto  seen,  and  the  num- 
ber of  sand-bars  extends  the  riv.ir  to  more  than  a  mile 
in  breadth.  We  continued  about  4}^  miles  further,  to  a 
sand-bar  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  where  we  spent  the 
night,  our  progress  being  16  miles.  On  the  opposite 
shore  we  saw  a  house  among  the  willows,  and  a  boy  whom 
we  called  and  brought  on  board.  He  proved  to  be  a 
young  Frenchman  in  the  employ  of  a  Mr.  Valle,"  a  trader 
who  is  now  here  pursuing  his  commerce  with  the  Sioux. 


V 


able  in  point  of  number  :  formerly  resided  on  a  branch  of  the  Red  River  of 
Lake  Winnipie,  which  still  bears  their  name.  Being  oppressed  by  the  Sioux, 
they  removed  to  the  west  side  of  the  Missouri,  about  15  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  Warricunne  creek,  where  they  built  and  fortified  a  village,  but  being 
pursued  by  their  ancient  enemies  the  Sioux,  they  fied  to  the  Black  hills  about 
the  head  of  the  Chyenne  river,  where  they  wander  in  quest  of  the  buffalo, 
having  no  fixed  residence.  They  do  not  cultivate.  They  are  well  disposed 
towards  the  whites,  and  might  easily  be  induced  to  settle  on  the  Missouri,  if  they 
could  be  assured  of  being  protected  from  the  Sioux.  Their  number  annually 
diminishes."     (London  ed.  1807,  p.  20.) 

.Vccording  to  the  latest  returns  the  Cheyennes  now  number  3,626.  Of 
Northern  Cheyennes  there  are  517  at  Pine  Ridge  Agency,  S.  D.,  and  865  at 
Tongue  River  Agency,  Mont.  There  are  2,091  Cheyennes  at  the  Cheyenne 
and  Arapaho  Agency  in  Ind.  Terr.,  and  153  are  at  school  at  Lawrence,  Kas., 
and  Carlisle,  Pa. 

'"  "  Passed  a  Creek  on  the  L.  S.  which  we  Call  the  Sentinal,"  Clark  B  173;  so 
also  Lewis'  map,  1806;  as  per  text  on  Clark's,  1814;  charted  but  unnamed 
by  Warren  and  by  Reynolds  ;  no  trace  on  G.  L.  O.  map,  1879  I  Pascal  creek 
<jf  .Stevens'  map  ;  and  now  Fox  creek.  The  Missouri  is  here  running  nearly 
from  east  to  west,  and  the  stream  comes  in  from  the  N.W.,  in  Stanley  Co. 

"  "  Passed  2  Creeks  on  the  L.  S.  the  upper  small,"  Cl.irk  B  171.  This 
upper  small  creek  is  Lookout  of  the  text  ;  shown  by  a  separate  scratch  on  Lewis' 
map,  but  apparently  charted  as  a  north  fork  of  Sentinel  creek  on  Clark's, 
though  Clark  B  174  says,  "  a  small  creek  above  the  latter  which  we  call  lookout 
C."  There  is  yet  another  small  creek,  just  beyond  Lookout.  I  am  not 
informed  of  a  modern  name  for  eithe    of  these  streams,  if  either  has  one. 

'*  "  A  boy  came  in  a  canoe  &  informed  that  2  french  men  were  at  the 
house  with  good  to  trade  with  the  Seauex  whom  he  expected  down  from  the 
Rickerees  [Arikaras]  iverry  day.  .  .  This  Mr.  Jon  I'allie  informs  us,"  etc., 
Clark  B  175. 


»    \\ 


I 


' ! 


ISO 


KEl'OKTS   FROM   THE   HLACK    IIII.LS. 


I  I 


'M 


October  2d.  There  had  been  a  violent  wind  from  the 
S.E.  during  the  night,  which  having  moderated  we  set  sail 
with  Mr.  Valle,  who  visited  us  this  morning  and  accom- 
panied us  for  two  miles.  He  is  one  of  the  three  French 
traders  who  have  halted  here,  expecting  the  Sioux  who  arc 
coming  down  from  the  Ricaras,  where  they  now  are,  for 
the  purposes  of  traffic.  Mr.  Valle  tells  us  that  he  has 
passed  the  last  winter  300  leagues  up  the  Chayenne  under 
the  Black  mountains.  That  river  he  represents  as  very 
rapid,  liable  to  sudden  swells,  the  bed  and  .shores  formed  of 
coarse  gravel,  and  difficult  of  ascent  even  for  canoes;  100 
leagues  from  its  mouth  it  divides  into  two  branches,  one 
coming  from  the  south  ;  the  other  at  40  leagues  from  the 
junction  enters  the  Black  mountains.  The  land  which  it 
waters,  from  the  Missouri  to  the  Black  mountains,  resem- 
bles the  country  on  the  Missouri,  except  that  the  former 
has  even  less  timber,  and  of  that  the  greater  proportion 
is  cedar.  The  Chayeniies  reside  chiefly  on  the  heads  of 
the  river,  and  steal  horses  from  the  Spanish  settlement,  a 
plundering  excursion  which  they  perform  in  a  month's 
(/.  g6\  time.  The  Black  mountains,  he  observes,  are  very 
high,  covered  with  great  quantities  of  pi:ic,  and  in  some 
parts  the  snow  remains  during  the  summer.  There  are 
also  great  quantities  of  goats,  white  bear,  prairie-cocks, 
and  a  species  of  animal  which,  from  his  description,  must 
resemble  a  small  elk  with  large  circular  horns." 

"Obviously  the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep  or  bighorn,  Oris  montana,  here  tirst 
alluded  to  by  our  authors.  "  Saw  a  spoon  made  of  a  horn  of  an  anemele  of  the 
sheep  kind,"  Clark  H  149,  Sept.  26th,  where  is  an  interlineation  "  mountain  mm 
or  argalia."  A  codex  describes  a  head  and  horns  which  weighed  27  lbs.  This 
woolless  sheep  exercised  the  party  a  good  deal,  especially  after  they  discovered 
the  woolly  goat,  Ilaf<locfru!  monlnnus.  The  codices  mostly  cal'  it  "  the  big- 
horned  animal "  ;  sometimes  by  its  Indian  name,  arsarta  or  ahsahta — a  word 
I  (lid  not  discover  in  English  print  till  too  late  to  put  it  in  the  Century 
Dictionary  ;  sometimes  argali  or  argalia,  and  again  ibex.  They  give  I'Oth  these 
last  names  to  certain  creeks  higher  up  the  Missouri.  Class  says,  "  Captain 
Clarke  calls  them  the  Ibex,"  p.  8f),  and  Ciass'  editor,  David  M'Keehan.  discusses 
this  identification  with  long  quotes  from  Goldsmith's  Animated  Nature.  The 
white  bear  above  mentioned  is  the  grizzly,  I'rsm  horriUlis.     The  prairie-cock 


LOOKOUT   RKND— CAUTION   ISLAND. 


>5I 


At  2^  miles  \vc  had  passed  a  willow-island  on  the  south  ; 
on  the  nortl;  side  of  the  river  were  dark  bluffs,  and  on  the 
south  low  rich  prairies.  We  took  a  meridian  altitude  on 
our  arrival  at  the  upper  end  of  the  isthmus  of  the  bend, 
which  wc  called  the  Lookout  Bend,  and  found  the  latitude 
to  be  44"  19'  36"."  This  bend  is  nearly  20  miles  around, 
and  not  more  than  two  miles  across. 

In  the  afternoon  we  heard  a  shot  fired,  and  not  long  after 
observed  some  Indians  on  a  hill.  One  of  them  came  to 
the  shore  and  wished  us  to  land,  as  there  were  20  lodges  of 
Yanktons  or  Boisbrule  [sic]  there."  We  declined  doing  so, 
telling  him  that  we  had  already  seen  his  chiefs,  and  that  they 
might  learn  from  Mr.  Durion  the  nature  of  the  talk  we  had 
delivered  to  them.  At  nine  miles  we  came  to  the  lower  point 
of  a  long  island  on  the  north,  the  banks  of  the  south  side 
of  the  river  being  high,  those  of  the  north  forming  a  low 
rich  prairie.  We  coasted  along  this  island,  which  we  called 
Cautiop"  island,  and  after  passing  a  small  creek  on  the 
south"  camped  on  a  sand-bar  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  hav- 
ing made  twelve  miles.  The  wind  changed  to  the  northwest 
and  became  very  high  and  cold.  The  current  of  the  river 
is  less  rapid,  and  the  water,  though  of  the  same  color,  con- 
tains less  sediment  than  below  the  Chayenne,  but  its  width 
continues  the  same.     We  were  not  able  to  hunt  to-day,  for 


is  the  sage-grouse,  Centrocercus  tirflphasianus,  .ind  the  basis  of  a  certain 
mythical  "  white  booted  turkey."  Clark  B  177  and  Lewis  Q  44,  stated  by  Mr. 
Valle  to  be  found  in  the  black  hills. 

'*  So  Clark  H  178,  but  too  far  south  ;  44'  49'  would  be  nearer  the  true  lati- 
tude of  this  point  on  Lookout  l?end,  which  is  that  already  noted,  p.  147,  as  the 
Little  Bend.     At  the  upper  end  of  the  hend  is  Devil's  island. 

"Class  has  "  the  Jonkta  or  Babarole  band,"  p.  49. 

'*This  is  Plum  island  of  Warren's  and  present  maps  ;  ch.irted,  nameless, 
fin  Reynolds'  ;  not  shown  on  Lewis'  or  on  Clark's  ;  wrongly  named  Pascal's 
island  by  Stevens.  "  Observe  great  caution  this  day,  expecting  the  Seaiix 
intentions  somewhat  hostile,"  Clark  C  2,  overlapping  Codex  B  in  date. 

"  Not  identified.  If  we  could  here  read  tiorth  for  "  south,"  we  might  sup- 
pose this  to  be  the  creek  marked  Inyan  Tonka  on  Heap's  map,  next  above 
Plum  island,  on  the  east  or  riglif-hand  side  going  up.  But  Clark  B  l8u  has 
plainly  "  L.  S.,"  larboard  or  left-hand  side,  with  which  the  text  agrees. 


! 


m 


A.: 


■  ir 


i 


152 


THE   MAIN  CHANNEL  HARD  TO  FIND. 


theri^  were  so  many  Indians  in  the  neighborhood  we  were 
in  constant  expectation  of  being  attacked,  and  were  there- 
fore forced  to  keep  the  party  together  and  be  on  our  guard. 

October  3^."  The  wind  continued  so  high  from  the  nort' 
west  that  we  could  not  set  out  till  after  seven.  We  then 
proceeded  till  twelve  o'clock,  and  landed  on  (/,  ^f)  a  bar 
toward  the  south,  where  we  examined  the  periogues  and 
the  forecastle  of  the  boat,  and  found  that  the  mice  had 
cut  several  bags  of  corn  and  spoiled  some  of  our  clothes. 
About  one  o'clock  an  Indian  came  running  to  the  shore 
with  a  turkey  on  his  back  ;  several  others  soon  joined  him, 
but  we  had  no  intercourse  with  them.  We  then  went  on 
for  three  miles,  but  the  ascent  soon  became  so  obstructed 
by  sand-bars  and  shoal  water  that,  after  attempting  in  vain 
several  channels,  we  determined  to  rest  for  the  night  under 
some  high  bluffs  on  the  south  [now  Artichoke  butte],  and 
send  out  to  examine  the  best  channel.  We  had  made  eight 
miles  along  high  bluffs  on  each  side."  The  birds  we  saw 
were  white  gulls  and  brant  {Berniclu  brenta],  which  were 
flying  to  the  southward  in  large  flocks. 

October  ^th.  On  examination  we  found  that  there  was 
no  outlet  practicable  for  us  in  this  channel,  and  that  we 
must  retrace  our  steps.  We  therefore  returned  three  miles 
and  attempted  another  channel,  in  which  we  were  more 
fortunate.  The  Indians  were  in  small  numbers  on  the 
shore,  and  seemed  willing,  had  they  been  more  numerous, 
to  molest  us.     They  called  to  desire  that  we  would  land, 

'"  Clark  B  ends  with  this  date  ;  it  begins  Aug.  15th,  to  which  date  Clark  A 
extends.  Up  to  this  point  in  the  History  of  the  Expedition,  the  Biddle  narrative 
is  b.nsed  almost  solely  on  these  two  codices — the  chief  exceptions  I  have  noticed 
being  the  account  of  the  antelope,  Sept.  I7fh,  which  is  from  the  fragmentary 
Lewis  Ba,  and  of  the  supposed  ancient  fortification,  the  sketch  and  main  descrip- 
tion of  which  are  in  Clark  N  81-85.  Biddle  now  passes  to  Codex  C,  which  is 
mainly  a  Clark,  but  with  some  entries  in  Lewis'  hand.  This  we  may  call  "  the 
Mandan  Codex,"  as  it  extends  to  April  7th,  1805,  and  is  chiefly  the  Lewis  and 
Clark  journal  of  their  wintering  at  Fort  Mandan,  though  it  includes  a  good  deal 
of  other  and  miscellaneous  matter.  In  this  re.spect,  as  in  style  of  binding  and 
some  other  particulars,  it  stands  quite  alone  in  the  series  of  codices. 

'"  And  had  overlooked  Inyan  Tonka  of  Warren,  on  the  right,  now  Artichoke 
creek. 


ISA 


GOOD  HOPE   ISLAND— LAHOOCAT  VILLAGE. 


»53 


le 

IS, 

id, 


crip- 
is 
the 
and 
deal 
and 

loke 


and  one  of  them  gave  three  yells  and  fired  a  ball  ahead  of 
the  boat ;  we,  however,  took  no  notice  of  it,  but  landed  on 
the  south  to  breakfast.  One  of  these  Indians  swam  across 
and  begged  for  some  powder ;  we  gave  him  a  piece  of  to- 
bacco  only.  At  8^2  miles  we  had  passed  an  island  in  the 
middle  of  the  river,  which  we  called  Goodhope"  island. 
At  lyi  miles  we  reached  a  creek  on  the  south  side  about 
twelve  yards  wide,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  of  Teal 
creek.  A  little  above  this  is  an  island  on  the  north  side 
of  the  current  [i.e.,  channel],  about  i}4  miles  in  length  and 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  In  the  center  of  this 
island  is  an  old  village  of  the  Ricaras,  called  Lahoocat ;  it 
was  surrounded  by  a  circular  wall,  containing  17  lodges. 
The  Ricaras  are  known  to  have  lived  there  in  1797,  and 
the  village  seems  to  have  been  deserted  about  five  years 
since ;  it  does  not  contain  much  timber.  We  camped  on 
a  sand-  (/.  pS)  bar  making  out  from  the  upper  end  of 
this  island,  our  journey  to-day  being  twelve  miles. 

October  5th.  The  weather  was  very  cold ;  yesterday 
evening  and  this  morning  there  was  a  white  frost.  We 
sailed  along  the  highlands  on  the  north  side,  passing  a 
small  creek  on  the  south,  between  three  and  four  miles. 
At  seven  o'clock  we  heard  some  yells  and  saw  three  Indians 
of  the  Teton  band,  who  asked  us  to  come  on  shore  and 
begged  for  some  tobacco;  to  all  which  we  gave  the  same 

'■"'  Pascal's  island  of  Warren's  but  not  of  ordinary  maps,  which  locate  Pascal's 
island  on  the  parallel  of  45°  N.  This  fixed  point  is  fortunate,  for  the  text  of 
Oct.  4th  and  5th  is  peculiarly  difficult  to  follow.  Clark  C  5  has  :  "  Passed  a 
Island  in  the  middle  of  the  river  about  3  miles  in  length,  we  call  Good-hope 
Island,  (2)  at  4  miles  [further]  passed  a  creek  [Teat]  on  the  L.  S.  about  12  yards 
wide  .  .  .  crossed  over  to  an  (3)  Island  [Lahoocat]  situated  on  the  S.  S.'' 
Thus  at  the  %]/i  miles  of  the  text  Good  Hope  (Pascal's  of  Warren)  had  been  left 
four  miles  below  Teal  creek,  instead  of  only  ij-^  miles,  as  the  text  reads,  and 
Teal  creek  is  close  to  the  island  of  Lahoocat.  This  fetches  out  exactly  for 
identification  of  Lahoocat  with  the  island  Warren  and  Heap  both  called  Bull- 
berry,  at  45",  between  Potter  and  Dewey  Cos.,  with  Teal  creek  running  in  the 
latter  county.  The  name  "  Teal  "  creek  is  not  to  be  found  in  the  Clark  codex  ; 
but  it  is  "  Teel  "  in  Gass,  p.  jo.Jwhence  I  imagine  Biddle  took  it :  he  also  had 
the  Gass  manuscript  in  his  hands  at  one  time,  besides  Gass'  printed  volume- 


\% 


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i^ 


't? 


154     LITTLE  CHEYENNE    RIVER— WHITE   BRANT  CREEK. 

answer  as  hitherto.  At  eight  miles  we  n.'ached  a  small" 
creek  on  the  north.  At  14  we  passed  an  island  on  the 
south,  covered  with  wild  rye  ;  at  the  head  of  it  a  large  creek 
comes  in  from  the  south,  which  we  named  Whitebrant 
creek,  from  seeing  several  white  brants  among  flocks  of 
dark-colored  ones."  At  the  distance  of  20  miles  we  came- 
to  on  a  sand-bar  toward  the  north  side  of  the  river,  with 
a  willow-island  opposite ;  the  hills,  or  bluffs,  come  to  the 
banks  of  the  river  on  both  sides,  but  are  not  so  high  as  they 
are  below ;  the  river  itself,  however,  continues  of  the  same 
width,  and  the  sand-bars  are  quite  as  numerous.  The  soil 
of  the  banks  is  dark-colored,  and  many  of  the  blufTs  have 
the  appearance  of  being  on  fire.  Our  game  this  day  was 
a  deer,  a  prairie-wolf,  and  some  goats  [antelope]  out  of  a 
flock  that  was  swimming  across  the  river. 

October  6th.  The  morning  was  still  cold,  the  wind  being 
from  the  north.  At  eight  miles  we  came  to  a  willow-island 
on  the  north,  opposite  a  point  of  timber,  where  there  are 
many  large  stones  near  the  middle  of  the  river,  which  seem 

"  The  word  "  small  "  does  not  occur  here  in  Clark  C  6-8,  Oct.  Sth,  and  the 
distance  from  the  island  of  Lahoocat  makes  this  creek,  nameless  both  in  the 
text  and  in  the  codex,  no  other  than  the  Little  Cheyenne  river,  a  considerable 
stream  from  the  "  north,"  «'.  e.,  east,  in  Potter  (formerly  Ashmore)  Co.  This 
is  Cut  Head  R.  of  Heap,  and  Hidden  creek  of  Gass,  p.  50,  who  says;  "We 
passed  a  creek  on  the  north  side,  called  Hidden  creek,  and  high  black  bluffs  on 
the  south  side."  The  Little  Cheyenne  is  well  "hidden"  in  the  text.  But  it  is 
conspicuously  traced  in  Clark's  map,  1814,  unlettertd  :  see  there  the  stream  on 
the  right,  next  above  the  parallel  of  45",  and  next  below  Otter  creek  on  the  same 
side.  There  is  now  a  place  called  Medicine  Rock  at  its  mouth.  White  Brant 
creek,  from  the  "  south,"  i.  e.,  west,  is  called  White  Goat  creek  in  Gass,  p.  50, 
by  a  slip  for  White  Goose.  It  is  one  of  two  or  more  streams  in  Dewey  Co. ,  south 
of  Moreau  or  Owl  river,  and  just  below  Patched  Skin  buttes.  For  future  identi- 
fications it  may  be  well  to  give  Clark's  courses  and  distances  for  the  5th,  avoiding 
the  peculiarities  of  his  phraseology  :  N.  63°  E.  lyi  ms.  under  high  land  S.  S. 
E.  3  ms.  passing  a  creek  L.  S.  N.  So'E.  i>^  ms.  in  a  bend  S.  S.  N.  30°  W. 
2  ms.  to  a  point  of  high  land  L.  Si., passitig  a  creek,  S.  S.  (Biddle's  "small  creek 
on  the  north  ").  N.  50"  W.  3  ms.  to  a  point  S.  S.  N.  17°  W.  3  ms.  to  a  tree 
on  the  S.  S.,  passing  a  small  island,  "  covered  with  wild  rye,"  above  which  a 
creek  (White  Brant)  comes  in  L.  S.     N.  16"  E.  6  ms.,  etc.  ;  total,  20  miles. 

"  The  white  brant,  here  first  mentioned,  is  the  snow-goos-,  C/ifii  hyperbo- 
reus.     The  dark-colored  brant  is  the  ordinary  species,  Benikla  brenta. 


•1 


OLD   AKIKAKA    VILLAGE— OTTER  CREEK. 


•55 


to  have  been  washed  from  tiic  hills  and  high  plains  on  both 
sides,  or  driven  from  a  distance  down  the  stream.  At  twelve 
miles  we  halted  for  dinner  at  a  village  which  we  suppose  to 
have  belonged  to  the  Ricaras.  It  is  situated  in  a  low  plain 
on  the  river,  and  consists  of  about  80  lodges  of  an  octagon 
form,  neatly  covered  with  earth,  placed  as  close  to  each 
other  as  possible,  and  picketed  around.  The  skin  canoes, 
mats,  buckets,  and  articles  of  furniture  found  in  the 
(/.  9^)  lodges,  induce  us  to  suppose  that  it  had  been  left 
in  the  spring.  We  found  three  different  sorts  of  squashes 
growing  in  the  village ;  we  also  killed  an  elk  near  it,  and 
saw  two  wolves.  On  leaving  the  village  the  river  became 
shallow,  and  after  searching  a  long  time  for  the  main  chan- 
nel, which  was  concealed  among  sand-bars,  we  at  last 
dragged  the  boat  over  one  of  them,  rather  than  go  back 
three  miles  for  the  deepest  channel.  At  14^  miles  we 
stopped  for  the  night  on  a  sand-bar,  opposite  a  creek  on 
the  north  [in  Walworth  Co.],  called  Otter"  creek,  22  yards 
in  width,  and  containing  more  water  than  is  common  for 
creeks  of  that  size.  The  sides  of  the  river  during  the  day 
were  variegated  with  high  blufTs  and  low  timbered  grounds 
on  the  banks ;  the  river  is  very  much  obstructed  by  sand- 
bars. We  saw  geese,  swan,"  brant,  and  ducks  of  different 
kinds  on  the  sand-bars,  and  on  the  shore  numbers  of  the 
prairie-hen ;  the  magpie,  too,  is  very  common,  but  the 
gulls  and  plover,  which  we  saw  in  such  numbers  below, 
are  how  quite  rare. 

October  "jth.     There   was   frost   again  last  evening,  and 


"  "  Beaver  or  Otter  creek,"  Clark  C  10,  where  Biddle  selects  the  latter  name  ; 
Swamp  creek  of  Stevens  ;  Swan  Lake  creek  of  Heap  ;  now  Swan  creek,  in  Wal- 
worth Co. ,  emptying  a  little  below  the  mouth  of  Owl  or  Moreau  river.  It  is 
plainly  charted  and  lettered  both  on  Lewis'  and  on  Clark's  m.ips,  but  there  is  no 
sign  of  any  such  river  on  either  Warren's  or  Reynolds';  it  is  charted,  but  unnamed, 
on  the  G.  L.  O.  map  of  1879,  and  on  the  latest  contour-map  of  the  Geological 
Survey.     Gass  misses  it,  unless  his  "  small  creek  on  the  south"  is  meant  for  it. 

"  Probably  the  common  whistling  .swan,  Cygnus  columbiantis ;  but  the  trump- 
eter, C.  buccinator,  is  also  found  in  the  Missouri  region.  The  prairie-hen  is  the 
sharp-tailed  grouse,  PcJitrcetcs  phasiantllus  columbiauus. 


H 


mi 


! 

1 


■^1 


?        I 


IS6 


MOREAU   OR  OWL  RIVER— GROUSE  ISLAND. 


this  morning  was  cloudy  and  attended  with  rain.  At  two 
miles  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  a  river,  called  by  the  Ricaras 
Sawawkawna,"  or  Pork  [sic]  river ;  the  party  who  examined 
it  for  about  three  miles  up,  say  that  its  current  is  gentle,  and 
that  it  does  not  seem  to  throw  out  much  sand.  Its  sources 
are  in  the  first  range  of  the  Black  mountains:  though  it 
has  now  only  water  of  20  yards'  width,  yet  when  full  it 
occupies  90.  Just  below  the  mouth  is  another  village  or 
wintering-camp  of  the  Ricaras,  composed  of  about  60 
lodges,  built  in  the  same  form  as  those  passed  yesterday, 
with  willow  and  straw  mats,  baskets,  and  buffalo-skin 
canoes  remaining  entire  in  the  camp.  We  proceeded  under 
a  gentle  breeze  from  the  southwest.  At  ten  o'clock  we 
saw  two  Indians  on  the  north  side,  who  told  us  they  were 
a  part  of  the  lodge  of  Tartongawaka,  or  Buffalo  Medicine, 
the  Teton  chief  whom  we  had  seen  on  [September]  the  25th  ; 
that  they  were  on  the  way  to  the  Ricaras,  and  begged  us 
for  some-  (/>.  100)  thing  to  eat,  which  of  course  we  gave  them. 
At  71^  miles  is  a  willow-island  on  the  north,  and  another 
on  the  same  side  five  miles  beyond  it,  in  the  middle  of  the 
river  between  highlands  on  both  sides.  At  i8j^  miles  is  an 
island  called  Grouse  island,"  on  which  are  the  walls  of  an 

"  Elsewhere  Sarwarkarna  and  Sarwarcarna  ;  in  Gass  Cer-wer-cer-na;  in  Brack- 
enridge,  1814,  Ser-war-cerna,  p.  244  and  p.  367;  on  Lewis' map  Sar-war-car-na-ho; 
"  the  Ricares  call  this  river  Sur-war-kar-na,  or  Park,"  Clark  C  11.  which  accounts 
for  the  "  Pork  "  in  the  text,  salted  since  1814.  The  codices  yield  some  other 
forms,  which  need  not  be  transcribed.  Warren  and  Reynolds  both  inscribe  on 
their  maps  Ilecha  or  Heecha  VVakpa,  besides  Moreau.  The  name  on  most  maps 
is  Owl  river  ;  on  the  G.  L.  O.  map,  1879.  and  U.  S.  Geol.  Surv.  contour-map, 
Moreau  or  Owl  river.  This  comes  from  the  3,000  103,500  foot  elevation  in 
Harding  and  Butte  counties,  courses  east  parallel  with  the  Cheyenne  below  and 
the  Grand  above,  through  Choteau,  Rinehart,  Schnasse,  and  Dewey  counties, 
falling  into  the  Missouri  in  the  latter  opposite  Walworth  Co.  It  drains  from 
outlying  spurs  or  buttes  of  the  Black  hills,  and  through  some  Bad  Lands.  It 
was  named  for  one  Moreau,  stabbed  by  a  Cheyenne  squaw. 

'•"  Shaved  island,"  Clark  C  12,  13,  twice,  erased  and  Grous  or  Grouse  sub- 
stituted. This  island  is  described  as  "  nearly  1%  ms.  squar,"  and  on  it  was 
killed  a  "  shee  Brarow,"  being  the  female  blaireau  of  the  text.  Late  maps 
show  two  large  islands  in  this  day's  voyage,  but  both  apparently  short  of  Grouse 
island,  and  seeming  to  correspond  to  the  other  two  jlands,  unnamed  in  the  text. 


i  A 


\  \ 


WETARHOO   OR    GRAND    RIVER. 


157 


old  village.  The  island  has  no  timber,  but  is  covered  with 
fjiass  and  wild  rye,  and  owes  its  name  to  the  number  of 
[sharp-tailed]  grouse  that  frequent  it.  We  then  went  on 
till  our  journey  for  the  day  was  22  miles.  The  country 
presentetl  the  same  appearance  as  usual.  In  the  low 
timbered  ground  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sawawkawna  we 
saw  the  tracks  of  large  white  [grizzly]  bear,  and  on  Grouse 
island  killed  a  female  blaireau  [badger],  and  a  deer  of  the 
black-tailed  species,  the  largest  [doe]  we  have  ever  seen. 

October  St/i.  Wc  proceeded  early  with  a  cool  northwest 
wind,  and  at  2>^  miles  above  Grouse  island  reached  the 
mouth  of  a  creek  on  the  south  ;  then  a  small  willow-island 
which  divides  the  current  equally;  and  at  4^-^  miles  came 
to  a  river  on  the  southern  side,  where  we  halted.  This 
river,  which  our  meridian  altitude  fixes  at  45°  39'  5"  north 
latitude,  is  called  by  the  RicarasWetawhoo"  [or  Wetarhoo] ; 
it  rises  in  the  Black  mountains,  and  its  bed,  which  flows 
at  the  mouth  over  a  low  soft  slate-stone,  is  120  yards  wide; 
but  the  water  is  now  confined  within  20  yards  and  is  not 
very  rapid,  discharging  mud  with  a  small  proportion  of 
sand.  Here,  as  in  every  bend  of  the  river,  we  again  ob- 
serve the  red  berries'"  resembling  currants,  which  we  men- 

On  Warren's  map  these  islands  are  marked  Fox  (lower)  and  Blue  Blanket  (upper). 
Hills  all  along  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri  are  there  inscribed  Hawthorne's 
bluffs.     Present  Bois  Cache  creek  comes  in  at  Fox  island  (Walworth  Co.). 

"  So  first,  Clark  C  14  ;  also  Weterhoo  and  other  forms  in  the  codices  ;  Water- 
ehoo,  Brackenridge,  p.  267  ;  We-ter-hoo,  on  Lewis'  map ;  Wetar-hoo,  on 
Clark's;  not  noted  in  Gass,  p.  51,  who  instead  gives  the  creek  from  the 
south  of  above  text  as  Slate  run,  and  then  proceeds  to  the  Maropa  river. 
The  Wetarhoo  is  the  Palanata  Wakpa  or  Ree  river  of  Warren  and  Reynolds  ;  it 
is  now  designated  Grand  river,  duplicating  the  name  of  another  river  so  called 
early  in  this  work  (note  ",  p.  24).  The  Grand  h.is  its  headwaters  in  Bowman, 
Ewing,  and  Harding  counties,  about  the  3,000  to  4,000  feet  elevation  contours, 
nc.ir  the  sources  of  the  Little  Missouri,  which  drains  north,  while  the  Grand 
watershed  is  east.  The  waters  run  parallel  with  those  of  the  Owl  below  and 
Cannon-ball  above,  through  Martin,  Wagner,  Schnasse,  and  Boreman  counties, 
falling  into  the  Missouri  in  the  latter  county  on  the  edge  of  Dewey  ;  across  the 
Missouri  is  the  line  between  Campbell  and  W.-xlworth  counties  ;  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Grand  is  the  Indian  Agency  of  the  same  name. 

"  Shefiherdia  argentea  :  see  note  ",  p.  84.     "  The  mandans  call  a  red  berry 


4 


I 


t  f  *; 


\l: 


tft 


MAROl'A   RIVKR,    OR  RAMPART  CKIiEK. 


tiuncd  before.  Two  miles  above  the  Wctawhou,  and  on 
the  same  side,  is  a  small  river  called  Maropa"  [or  Murapa 
or  MaripaJ  by  tlie  Indians ;  it  is  20  yards  in  width,  but  so 
dammed  up  by  mud  that  the  stream  creeps  through  a 
channel  of  not  more  than  an  inch  in  diameter  and  dis- 
ciiarges  no  sand.  One  mile  further  we  reached  an  island 
close  to  the  southern  shore,  from  which  it  is  separated  by 
a  deep  channel  of  60  yards.  About  halfway  a  number 
of  Ricara  Indians  came  out  to  see  us.  We  stopped  and 
took  a  Frenchman  on  board  (/.  10/),  who  accompanied  us 
past  the  island  to  our  camp  on  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
which  is  at  the  distance  of  twelve  miles  from  that  of 
yesterday. 

Captain  Lewis  then  returned  with  four  of  the  party  to 
see  the  village  ;  it  is  situated  in  the  center  of  the  island, 
near  the  southern  shore,  under  the  foot  of  some  high,  bald, 
uneven  hills,  and  contains  about  60  lodges.  The  island 
itself  is  three  miles  long,  and  covered  with  fields  in  which 
the  Indians  raise  corn,  beans,  and  potatoes.  Several 
Frenchmen  living  among  these  Indians  as  interpreters  or 
traders  came  back  with  Captain  Lewis,  particularly  a  Mr. 
Gravelines,  a  man  who  has  acquired  the  language.  On 
setting  out  we  had  a  low  prairie  covered  with  timber  on 
the  north,  and  on  the  south  highlands ;  but  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Wetawhoo  the  southern  country  changes,  and  a  low 
timbered  plain  extends  along  the  south,  while  the  north 
has  a  ridge  of  barren  hills  during  the  rest  of  the  day's 
course. 

October  gth.  The  wind  was  so  cold  and  high  last  night 
and  during  all  the  day  that  we  could  not  assemble  the 

common  to  the  upper  part  of  the  Missouri  Hst-dy.  The  engages  call  the  same 
berry  Grease  de  Buff  [graisse  de  boeuf],"  Clark  C  I.  "  The  red  berry  is  called 
by  the  Uees  Nar-nis,"  Clark  C,  inside  front  cover  of  the  book. 

•'  F'irst,  Clark  C  14,  Rearpar  or  Beaver  Dam  R.,  erased  and  Maropa  inter- 
lined ;  so  Lewis'  map  ;  Maripa,  Clark's  map  ;  Marapa  in  Gass,  p.  5 1  ;  now 
Rampart  creek,  as  Warren  and  others.  This  stream  is  perfectly  well  known, 
but  will  not  be  found  on  ordinary  maps  ;  there  is  no  trace  of  it  even  on  the 
G.  L.  O.  map  of  1879.     It  is  also  called  Oak  creek. 


ia 


VISIT   OK  ARIKARA  CHIEFS. 


159 


Indians  in  council ;  but  some  of  the  party  went  to  the 
village.  We  received  the  visits  of  the  three  principal 
chiefs  with  many  others,  to  whom  we  gave  some  tobacco, 
and  told  them  that  we  would  speak  to  them  to-morrow. 
The  names  '"  of  these  chiefs  were  :  first,  Kakawissassa  or 
Lighting  Crow  ;  second  chief,  Pocasse  or  Hay  ;  third  chief 
I'iaheto  or  Eagle's  Feather.  Notwithstanding  the  high 
waves,  two  or  three  squaws  rowed  to  us  in  little  canoes 
made  of  a  single  buffalo-skin,  stretched  over  a  frame  of 
boughs  interwoven  like  u  basket,  and  with  the  most  perfect 
composure.  The  object  which  appeared  to  astonish  the 
Indians  most  was  Captain  Clark's  servant  York,  a  remark- 
ably stout,  strong  negro.  They  had  never  seen  a  being  of 
that  color,  and  therefore  flocked  round  him  to  examine  tlie 
extraordinary  monster.  By  way  of  amusement  he  told 
them  that  he  had  once  been  a  wild  animal,  and  caught  and 
tamed  by  his  master  ;  and  to  convince  them  showed  them 
feats  of  strength  {p.  102)  which,  added  to  his  looks,  made 
him  more  terrible  than  we  wished  him  to  be."      Opposite 

•"  All  these  are  as  Clark  C  18.  The  Mr.  Gravelines  is  Gravellin  and  Gravolin, 
Clark  C  17,  18  ;  Greaveline,  Clark  C  39,  etc.  The  Mr.  Tabeau  below  n.imed 
is  here  Mr.  Tabo,  elsewhere  Taboe,  Tabat,  Tebaux,  etc.     See  note  •',  p.  a8. 

"  York  wai  evidently  a  wag.  When  he  had  returned  to  St.  Louis,  and  been 
ireed,  lie  used  to  get  drunk  and  tell  funny  stories,  quite  in  keeping  with  the 
above,  which  revived  and  rehabilitated  the  famous  old  hoax  of  a  nation  of 
bearded,  blue-eyed,  and  red-haired  Indians  on  the  Upper  Missouri.  Accounts 
of  such  "  White  "  or  "  Welsh  "  Indians,  as  they  were  called,  are  traceable  back 
at  least  to  1764,  when  a  French  trader  prepared  a  list  of  aborigines  in  which  figure 
certain  "  Blancs  Darbus.or  White  Indians  with  Heard,"  said  to  muster  1,500  war- 
riors. Whatever  the  origin  of  this  relation,  it  took  a  new  lease  of  life  from  the 
residence  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  party  at  the  Mandans,  in  1804-5,  lost  nothing  at 
York's  glib  tongue  afterward,  and  was  seriously  discussed  as  an  ethnological 
fact  by  various  eminent  authors.  Mr.  A.  J.  Hill  of  St.  Taul,  my  valued  corre- 
spondent in  Lewis  and  Clark  matters,  calls  niy  attention  to  an  article  in  the  New 
York  Medical  Repository,  III.  p.  113,  1806,  entitled  "  Hearded  and  fair  People 
inhabiting  the  Country  high  up  the  Missouri,"  as  an  example  of  the  rumors  then 
rife.  York's  stories  grew  up  with  every  glass  thiit  went  down,  till  Mr.  Biddle 
might  have  wondered  what  his  History  of  the  Expedition  h.-»d  to  do  with  th.it 
multitudinous  host  who  conquered  the  land,  under  the  leadership  of  a  black 
drum-major  about  ten  feet  tall. 


\ 


i 


■  ll"l 


1 


■  :    (  , 


I 


::!■■■ 


i6o 


ARIKARA    PROHIBITION   PARTY. 


our  camp  is  a  small  creek  on  the  south,  which  we  distin- 
guished by  the  name  of  the  chief  Kakavvissassa. 

October  lof/i."  The  weather  was  this  day  fine,  and  as  we 
were  desirous  of  assembling  the  whole  nation  at  once,  we 
dispatched  Mr.  Gravelines — who,  with  Mr.  Tabeau,  another 
French  trader,  had  breakfasted  with  us — to  invite  the 
cliiefs  of  the  two  upper  villages  to  a  conference.  They 
all  assembled  at  one  o'clock,  and  after  the  usual  ceremo- 
nies we  addressed  them  in  the  same  way  in  which  we  had 
already  spoken  to  the  Ottoes  and  Sioux.  We  then  made 
or  acknowledged  three  chiefs,  one  for  each  of  the  three 
villages  ;  giving  to  each  a  flag,  a  medal,  a  red  coat,  a  cocked 
hat  and  feather,  also  some  goods,  paint  and  tobacco,  which 
they  divided  among  themselves.  After  this  the  air-gun  was 
exhibited,  very  much  to  their  astonishment,  nor  were  they 
less  surprised  at  the  color  and  manner  of  York.  On  our 
side  we  were  equally  gratified  at  discovering  that  these 
Ricaras  made  use  of  no  spirituous  liquors  of  any  kind,  the 
example  of  the  traders  who  bring  it  to  them,  so  far  from 
tempting,  having  in  fact  disgusted  them.  Supposing  that  it 
was  as  agreeable  to  them  as  to  the  other  Indians,  we  had  at 
first  offered  tiiem  whisky  ;  but  they  refused  it  with  this 
sensible  remark,  that  they  were  surprised  that  their  father 
should  present  to  them  a  liquor  which  would  make  them 
fools.  On  another  occasion  they  observed  to  Mr.  Tabeau 
that  no  man  could  be  their  friend  who  tried  to  lead  them 
into  such  follies.  The  council  being  over  they  retired  to 
consult  on  their  answer,  and  the  next  morning, 

October  I  it/i.  at  eleven  o'clock,  we  again  met  in  council  at 
our  camp.  The  grand  chief  made  a  short  speech  of  thanks 
for  the  advice  we  had  given,  and  promised  to  follow  it;  add- 
ing that  the  door  was  now  open  and  no  one  dare  shut  it, 
and  that  we  migh'  depart  whenever  we  pleased — alluding 
to  the  treatment  we  had  received  from  the  Sioux.     They 

"  Gass  '-nys  he  went  this  day  to  the  lodges,  about  sixty  in  number,  which  he 
thus  describes,  p.  52  : 

"  It  a  circle  of  a  size  suited  to  the  dimensions  of  the  intended  lodge,  they  set 


] 


1 


1 


ii; 


ARIKARA  VILLAGES    VISITED. 


l6l 


also  (/.  loj)  brought  us  some  corn,  beans,  and  dried  squashes, 
and  in  return  we  gave  them  a  steel  mill,     rth  which  they 
were  much  pleased.     At  one  o'clock  we  leti  our  camp  with 
the  grand  chief  and  his  nephew  on  board,  and  at  about  two 
miles  anchored  below  a  creek  on  the  south,  separating  the 
second  and  third  village  of  the  Ricaras,  which  are  about 
half  a  mile  distant  from  each  other.     We  visited  both  the 
villages,  and  sat  conversing  with  the  chiefs  for  some  time 
during  which  they  presented  us  with  a  bread  made  of  corn 
and  beans,  also  corn  and  beans  boiled,  and  a  large  rich  bean 
which  they  take  from  the  mice  of  the  prairie,  which  discover 
and  collect  it.     These  two  villages  are  placed  near  each  other 
in  a  high,  smooth  prairie— a  fine  situation,  except  that  hav- 
ing no  wood  the  inhabitants  are  obliged  to  go  for  it  across 
the  river  to  a  timbered  lowland  opposite  them.     We  told 
them  that  we  would  speak  to  them  in  the  morning  at  their 
villages  separately. 

Oaodcr  12///.  Accordingly,  after  breakfast,  we  [Lewis, 
Clark,  and  Gass]  went  on  shore  to  the  house  of  the  chief 
of  the  second  village,  named  Lassel,  where  we  found  his 
chiefs  and  warriors.  They  made  us  a  present  of  about 
seven  bushels  of  corn,  a  pair  of  leggings,  a  twist  of  their 
tobacco,  and  seeds  of  two  different  species  of  tobacco 
The  chief  then  delivered  a  speech  expressive  of  his  grati- 
tude for  the  presents  and  good  counsels  which  we  had 
given  him  ;  his  intention  of  visiting  his  great  father,  but 

up  i6  forked  posts  five  or  six  feet  high,  and  lay  poles  from  one  fork  to  another 
Against  these  poles  they  lean  other  poles,  slanting  from  the  ground,  and  extendi 
ing  about  4  inches  above  the  cross  poles  ;  these  are  to  receive  the  ends  of  the 
upper  poles,  that  support  the  roof.  They  next  set  up  4  large  forks  15  feet 
htgh,  and  about  10  feet  apart,  in  the  middle  of  the  area  ;  and  poles  or  beams 
between  these.  The  roof  poles  are  then  laid  on  extending  from  the  lower 
poles  across  the  beams  which  rest  on  the  middle  forks,  of  such  a  length  as  to 
leave  a  hole  at  the  top  for  a  chimney.  The  whole  is  then  covered  with  willow 
branches,  except  the  chimney  and  a  hole  below  to  pass  through  On  the 
w.liow-branches  they  lay  grass  and  lastly  clay.  At  the  hole  below  they  build 
a  pen  about  4  feet  wide  and  projecting  10  feet  from  the  hut,  and  hang  a 
buffaloe  skin  at  the  entrance  of  the  hut  for  a  door.  This  hbor  like  every  other 
kmd  IS  chiefly  performed  by  the  squaws." 


i 


i|  ,1; 


n 


I 


■  i 


l62 


ARIKARA   HISTORY. 


for  fear  of  the  Sioux ;  and  requested  us  to  take  one  of  the 
Ricara  chiefs  up  to  the  Mandans  and  negotiate  a  peace 
between  the  two  nations.  To  this  we  replied  in  a  suitable 
way,  and  then  repaired  to  the  third  village.  Here  we  were 
addressed  by  the  chief  in  nearly  the  same  terms  as  before, 
and  entertained  with  a  present  of  ten  bushels  of  corn, 
some  beans,  dried  pumpkins,  and  squashes.  After  we  had 
answered  and  explained  the  magnitude  and  power  of  the 
United  States,  the  three  chiefs  came  with  us  to  the  boat. 
We  gave  them  some  sugar,  a  little  salt,  and  a  sun-glass. 
Two  of  them  then  left  us,  and  the  chief  of  the  third  [vil- 
age],  by  name  (/.  lo^)  Ahketahnasha  or  Chief  of  the 
Town,  accompanied  us  to  the  Mandans.  At  two  o'clock 
we  left  the  Indians,  who  crowded  to  the  shore  to  take 
leave  of  us,  and  after  making  7J4  miles  landed  on  the 
north  side,  and  had  a  clear,  cool,  pleasant  evening."* 

The  three  villages  which  we  have  just  left  are  the  resi- 
dence of  a  nation  called  the  Ricaras  [see  note  ',  p.  143]. 
They  were  originally  colonies  of  Pawnees,  who  estab- 
lished themselves  on  the  Missouri  below  the  Chayenne, 
where  the  traders  still  remember  that  twenty  years  ago 
they  occupied  a  number  of  villages.  From  that  situation 
a  part  of  the  Ricaras  emigrated  to  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Mandans,  with  whom  they  were  then  in  alliance.  The 
rest  of  the  nation  continued  near  the  Chayenne  till  the 
year  1797,  in  the  course  of  which,  distressed  by  their  wars 
with  the  Sioux,  they  joined  their  countrymen  near  the 
Mandans.  Soon  after,  a  new  war  arose  between  the 
Ricaras  and  the  Mandans,  in  consequence  of  which  the 
former  came  down  the  river  to  their  present  position.  In 
this  migration,  those  who  had  first  gone  to  the  Mandans 


""A  curious  curstom  with  the  Souex  as  well  as  the  Reckeres  is  to  give 
handsom  squars  to  those  whome  they  wish  to  show  some  acknowledgements 
to — The  Seauex  we  got  clear  of  without  taking  their  squars,  they  followed 
us  with  squars  two  days — The  Reckores  we  put  off  dureing  the  time  we  were 
at  the  Towns  but  2  handsom  young  squars  were  sent  by  a  man  to  follow  us, 
they  came  up  this  evening  and  pursecuted  in  their  civilities,"  Clark  C  27. 


^.'i    .^ 


ARIKARA   DRESS,   MANNERS,  AND   MORALS.  163 

kept  together,  and  now  live  in  the  two  lower  villages ;  they 
may  hence  be  considered  as  the  Ricaras  proper.  The  third 
village  was  composed  of  such  remnants  of  the  villages  as 
had  survived  the  wars;  and  as  these  were  nine  in  number,  a 
difference  of  pronunciation  and  some  difference  of  language 
may  be  observed  between  them  and  the  Ricaras  proper, 
who  do  not  understand  all  the  words  of  these  wanderers. 
The  villages  are  wjthin  the  distance  of  four  miles  of  each 
other,  the  two  lower  ones  consisting  of  between  150  and 
200  men  each,  the  third  of  300. 

The  Ricaras  are  tall  and  well  proportioned,  the  women 
handsome  and  lively,  and  as  among  other  savages  to  them 
falls  all  the  drudgery  of  the  field  and  the  labors  of  procur- 
ing  subsistence,  except  that  of  hunting.  Both  sexes  are 
poor,  but  kind  and  generous,  and  although  they  receive 
with  thankfulness  what  is  given  to  them,  do  not  beg  as  the 
Sioux  did  ;  though  this  praise  should  be  qualified  (/.  lo^) 
by  mentioning  that  an  ax  was  stolen  last  night  from  our 
cooks.  The  dress  of  the  men  is  a  simple  pair  of  moccasins, 
leggings,  and  a  cloth  round  the  middle,  over  which  a  buf- 
falo-robe is  occasionally  thrown  ;  their  hair,  arms,  and  ears 
are  decorated  with  different  ornaments.  The  women  wear 
moccasins,  leggings,  and  a  long  shirt  made  of  goat's  skins, 
generally  white  and  fringed,  which  is  tied  round  the  waist ; 
to  these  they  add,  like  the  men,  a  buffalo-robe  without  the 
hair,  in  summer. 

These  women  are  handsomer  than  the  Sioux ;  both  of 
them  are,  however,  disposed  to  be  amorous,  and  our  men 
found  no  diflficulty  in  procuring  companions  for  the  night 
by  means  of  the  interpreters.  These  interviews  were 
chiefly  clandestine,  and  were  of  course  to  be  kept  a  secret 
from  the  husband  or  relations.  The  point  of  honor  indeed 
is  completely  reversed  among  the  Ricaras ;  that  the  wife  oi 
the  sister  should  submit  to  a  stranger's  embraces  without 
the  consent  of  her  husband  or  brother  is  a  cause  of  great 
disgrace  and  offense,  especially  as  for  many  purposes  of 
civility  or  gratitude  the  husband  and   brother  will   thcm- 


I 


wn 


I 


A 


i   ! 


W^ 


.* 


164       ARIKARA    ETIQUETTE,   LODGES,    AND   PRODUCE. 

selves  present  to  a  stranger  these  females,  and  be  gratified 
by  attentions  to  them.  The  Sioux  had  offered  us  squaws, 
but  we  having  declined  while  we  remained  there,  they 
followed  us  with  offers  of  females  for  two  days.  The 
Ricaras  had  been  equally  accommodating ;  we  had  equally 
withstood  their  temptation  ;  but  such  was  their  desire  to 
oblige  us  that  two  very  handsome  young  squaws  were  sent 
on  board  this  evening,  and  persecuted  us  with  civilities. 
The  black  man  York  participated  largely  in  these  favors ; 
for,  instead  of  inspiring  any  prejudice,  his  color  seemed  to 
procure  him  additional  advantages  from  the  Indians,  who 
desired  to  preserve  among  them  some  memorial  of  this 
wonderful  stranger.  Among  other  instances  of  attention,  a 
Ricara  invited  him  into  his  house  and,  presenting  his  wife 
to  him,  retired  to  the  outside  of  the  door;  while  there  one 
of  York's  comrades  who  was  looking  for  him  came  to  the 
door,  but  the  gallant  hus-  (/>.  106)  band  would  permit  no 
interruption  until  a  reasonable  time  had  elapsed. 

The  Ricara  lodges  are  in  a  circular  or  octagonal  form, 
and  generally  about  30  or  40  feet  in  diameter.  They 
are  made  by  placing  forked  posts  about  six  feet  high  round 
the  circumference  of  the  circle ;  these  are  joined  by  poles 
from  one  fork  to  another,  which  are  supported  also  by 
other  forked  poles  slanting  from  the  ground  ;  in  the  center 
of  the  lodge  are  placed  four  higher  forks,  about  15  feet 
in  length,  connected  together  by  beams  ;  from  these  to  the 
lower  poles  the  rafters  of  the  roof  are  extended  so  as  to 
leave  a  vacancy  in  the  middle  for  the  smoke ;  the  frame  of 
the  buildinij  is  then  covered  with  willow  branches,  with 
which  is  interwoven  grass,  and  over  this  [is  placed]  mud  or 
clay;  the  aperture  for  the  door  is  about  four  feet  wide,  and 
before  it  is  a  sort  of  entry  about  ten  feet  from  the  lodge, 
Tiiey  are  very  warm  and  compact. 

They  cultivate  maize  or  Indian  corn,  beans,  pumpkins, 
watermelons,  squashes,  and  a  species  of  tobacco  peculiar  to 
themselves.  Their  commerce  is  chiefly  with  the  traders, 
who  supply  them  with  goods  in  return  for  peltries,  which 


u 


ARIKAKA   TRADE   AND   WAR— STONE   IDOL  CREEK.      165 

they  procure  not  only  by  their  own  hunting,  but  in  ex- 
change for  corn  from  their  less  civilized  neighbors.  The 
object  chiefly  in  demand  seemed  to  be  red  paint,  but  they 
would  give  anything  they  had  to  spare  for  the  most  trifling 
article.  One  of  the  men  to-day  gave  an  Indian  a  hook 
made  out  of  a  pin,  and  received  in  return  a  pair  of 
moccasins. 

They  express  a  disposition  to  keep  at  peace  with  all 
nations ;  but  they  are  well  armed  with  fusils,  and  being 
much  under  the  influence  of  the  Sioux,  who  exchange  the 
goods  which  they  get  from  the  British  for  Ricara  corn,  their 
minds  are  sometimes  poisoned  and  they  cannot  be  always 
depended  on.  At  the  present  moment  they  are  at  war  with 
the  Mandans. 

We  are  informed  by  Mr.  Gravelines,  who  had  passed 
through  that  country,  that  the  Yankton  or  Jacques  (/.  /07) 
river  rises  about  40  miles  to  the  east  or  northeast  of  this 
place,  the  Chayenne  branch  of  the  Red  river  about  20 
miles  further,  passing  the  Sioux  and  the  St.  Peter's 
about  80. 

October  i^t/i.  In  the  morning  our  visitors  left  us,  except 
the  brother  of  the  chief  who  accompanied  us,  and  one  of 
the  squaws.  We  passed  at  an  early  hour  a  camp  of  Sioux 
on  the  north  bank,  who  merely  looked  at  us  without  saying 
a  word,  and  from  the  character  of  the  tribe  we  did  not  so- 
licit a  conversation.  At  io>^  miles  we  reached  the  mouth 
of  a  creek  on  the  north,  which  takes  its  rise  from  some 
ponds  a  short  distance  to  the  northeast.  To  this  stream 
we  gave  the  name  of  Stoneidol  creek  ;"  for,  after  passing  a 
willow,  and  sand-island  just  above  its  mouth,  we  discovered 
that  a  few  miles  back  from  the  Missouri  there  are  two 
stones  resembling  human  figures,  and  a  third  like  a  dog,  all 
which  are  objects  of  great  veneration  among  the  Ricaras. 

'■•  Better  Stone  Idol  Creek,  as  Clark  C  29.  where  it  is  said  to  be  13  yards 
wide  :  see  his  map  ;  it  is  Stone  creek  of  Lewis'  map.  Gass.  p.  54,  calls  it 
Pond  river.  50  yards  wide.  It  is  called  Bourbeuse  river  on  Warren's  map  ; 
Bordache  creek,  of  Heap  ;  now  Spring  river,  in  Campbell  Co. 


( 


l66 


ARIKARA  TRADliION— HAV  CREEK. 


i.i! 


i. 


If!^ 


i     i' 


Their  history  would  adorn  the  Metamorphoses  of  Ovid. 
A  young  man  was  deeply  enamored  with  a  girl  whose 
parents  refused  their  consent  to  the  marriage.  Tiie  youth 
went  out  into  the  fields  to  mourn  his  misfortunes ;  a  sym- 
pathy of  feeling  led  the  lady  to  the  same  spot,  and  the 
faithful  dog  would  not  cease  to  follow  his  master.  After 
wandering  together  and  having  nothing  but  grapes  to  sub- 
sist on,  they  were  at  last  converted  into  stone,  which,  begin- 
ning at  the  feet,  gradually  invaded  the  nobler  parts,  leaving 
nothing  unchanged  but  a  bunch  of  grapes  which  the  female 
holds  in  her  hand  to  this  day.  Whenever  the  Ricaras 
pass  these  sacred  stones,  they  stop  to  make  some  offering 
of  dress  to  propitiate  these  deities.  Such  is  the  account 
given  by  the  Ricara  chief,  which  we  had  no  mode  of  exam- 
ining, except  that  we  found  one  part  of  the  story  very 
agreeably  confirmed  ;  for  on  the  river  near  where  the  event 
is  said  to  have  occurred  we  found  a  greater  abundance  of 
fine  grapes  than  we  had  yet  seen. 

Above  this  is  a  small  creek,  4}^  miles  from  Stoneidol 
creek,  which  is  15  yards  wide,  comes  in  from  the  south,  and 
(/.  loS)  received  from  us  the  name  of  Pocasse  or  Hay 
[now  Hunkpapa]  creek,  in  honor  of  the  chief  of  the  second 
village.  Above  the  Ricara  island  the  Missouri  becomes 
narrow  and  deeper,  the  sand-bars  being  generally  confined 
to  the  points;  the  current,  too,  is  much  more  gentle;  the 
timber  on  the  low  lands  is  also  in  much  greater  quantities, 
though  the  high  grounds  are  still  naked.  We  proceeded 
on  under  a  fine  breeze  from  the  southeast,  and  after  making 
18  miles  camped  "  on  the  north  near  a  timbered  low  plain, 
after  which  we  had  some  rain,  and  the  evening  was  cold. 
The  hunters  killed  one  deer  only. 

October  i^th.  We  set  out  in  the  rain,  which  continued 
during  the  day.  At  five  miles  we  came  to  a  creek  on  the 
south,  about  15  yards  wide,  and  named  by  us  Piaheto  or 
Eagle's  Feather,  in  honor  of  the  third  chief  of  the  Ricaras. 

"  Last  camp  in  South  Dakota.     To-morrow,  before  crossing  the  parallel"  of 
46°  N.  lat,,  the  Expedition  will  have  passed  from  South  into  North  Dakota. 


1>\ 


THE   CASE  OF  JOHN  NEWMAN. 


i6y 


After  dinner  we  stopped  on  a  sand-bar,  and  executed  the 
sentence  of  a  court  martial,  which  inflicted  corporeal  punish- 
ment on  one  of  the  soldiers."  This  operation  affected  the 
Indian  chief  very  sensibly,  for  he  cried  aloud  during  the 
punishment.     We  explained  the  offense  and  the  reasons  of 

••  Private  John  Newman,  U.  S.  Infantry.     Newman  was  a  good  man,  and  his 
case  a  hard  one.     Clark  C   28-31,  Oct.  13th,  14th,  has  ;  "One  man  J.  New- 
mon  confined  for  mutinous  expressions.  .  .  We  Tried  the  Prisoner  Newmon 
last  night  by  9  of  his  Peers  they  did  'centence  him  75  Lashes  &  [be]  Disbanded 
the  party.'  .  .  halted  on  a  Sand  bar  &  after  Dinner  executed  the  Sentence  of 
the  Court  Martial  so  far  a  [as]  giving  the  Corporal  punishment,  and  proceeded 
on  a  few  miles."    Lewis'  autograph  muster-roll,  now  in  the  War  Department 
archives,  is  accompanied  by  a  letter  in  his  hand,  making  certain  commentaries  on 
the  roll  (on  which,  of  course,  Newman's  name  does  not  appear,  as  he  had  been  dis- 
banded from  the  party);  and  I  find  the  following  magnanimous  statement :  "John 
Newman  was  a  private  in  the  Infantry  of  the  U'  States  army  who  joined  me  as 
a  volunteer  and  entered  into  an  inlistment  in  common  with  others  by  which  he 
was  held  and  Mustered  as  one  of  the  permanent  party,     in  the  course  of  the 
expedition,  or  shortly  before  we  arrived  at  the  Mandan  Villages  he  committed 
himself  by  using  certain  mutinous  expressions  which  caused  me  to  arrest  him 
and  to  have  him  tryed  by  a  Court  Martial  formed  of  his  peers  ;  they  finding  him 
guilty  sentenced  him  to  receive  seventy  five  lashes  and  to  be  discharged  from 
the  permanent  party,     this  sentence  was  enforced  by  me,  and  the  punishment 
took  place,     the  conduct  of  this  man  previous  to  this  period  had  been  generally 
correct,  and  the  zeal  he  afterwards  displayed  for  the  benefit  of  the  service  was 
highly  meritorious,     in  the  course  of  the  winter  while  at  Fort  Mandan,  from  an 
ardent  wish  to  attone  for  the  crime  which  he  had  committed  at  an  unguarded 
moment,  he  exerted  himself  on  every  occasion  to  become  usefull.     This  disposi- 
tion induced  him  to  expose  himself  too  much  to  the  intense  cold  of  that  clim.ite, 
and  on  a  hunting  excurtion  he   had  his  hands  and  feet  severely  frozen  with 
which  he  suffered  extreme  pain  for  some  weeks — having  recovered  from  this 
accident  by  the  ist.  of  April  1805.      he  asked  forgivness  for  what  had  passed, 
and  beged  that  I  would  permit  him  to  continue  with  me  through  the  voyage, 
but  deeming  it  impolitic  to  relax  from  the  sentence,  altho'  he  stood  acquitted 
in  my  mind,  T  determined  to  send   him   back,  which   was  accordingly  done, 
since  my  return  I  have  been  informed  that  he  was  extremely  serviceable  as  a 
hunter  on  the  voyage  to  St.  Louis  and  that  the  boat  on  several  occasions  owed 
her  safety  in  a  great  measure  to  his  personal  exertions,  being  a  man  of  uncom- 
mon activity  and  bodily  strength,     if  under  these  circumstances  it  should  be 
thought  proper  to  give  Newman  the  remaining  third   which  will  be  deducted 
from  the  gratuity  awarded  Paptiest  [sic]  La  Page  who  occupyed  his  station  in 
the  after  part  of  the  voyage  I  should  feel  myself  much  gratifyed."     This  letter 
is  dated  City  of  Washington,  January  15th,  1807,  and  addressed  to  General 
Henry  Dearborn,  Secretary  at  War. 


!68 


ARIKARA  CAMPS— OLD  CHEYENNE   VILLAGE. 


H 


/  !■ 


1 

I 


!.: 


it.  He  acknowledged  that  examples  were  necessary,  and 
that  he  himself  had  given  them  by  punishing  with  death  ; 
but  his  nation  never  whipped  even  children  from  their  birth. 
After  this  we  continued  with  the  wind  from  the  northeast, 
and  at  the  distance  of  twelve  miles  we  camped  "  in  a  cove 
of  the  southern  bank.  Immediately  opposite  our  camp,  on 
the  north  side,  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  fortification,  the 
greater  part  of  which  is  washed  into  the  river  ;  nor  could 
we  distinguish  more  than  that  the  walls  were  eight  or  ten 
feet  high.  The  evening  is  wet  and  disagreeable,  and  the 
river,  which  is  somewhat  wider  than  yesterday,  continues 
to  have  an  unusual  quantity  of  timber.  The  country  was 
level  on  both  sides  in  the  morning,  but  afterward  we  passed 
some  black  bluffs  on  the  south. 

October  lifth.  We  stopped  at  three  miles  on  the  north  ; 
a  little  above  a  camp  of  Ricaras  who  are  hunting,  where 
{p.  log)  we  were  visited  by  about  30  Indians.  They  came 
over  in  their  skin  canoes,  bringing  us  meat,  for  which  we 
returned  them  beads  and  fishhooks.  About  a  mile  higher 
we  found  another  camp  of  Ricaras  on  the  south,  consisting 
of  eight  lodges ;  here  we  again  ate  and  exchanged  a  few 
presents.  As  we  went  we  discerned  numbers  of  other 
Indians  on  both  .sides  of  the  river.  At  about  nine  miles 
we  came  to  a  creek  on  the  south,  where  we  saw  many  high 
hills  resembling  a  house  with  a  slanting  roof;  and  a  little 
below  the  creek,  an  old  village  of  the  Sharha  or  Chayenne 
Indians.  The  morning  had  been  cloudy,  but  the  evening 
became  pleasant,  the  wind  from  the  northeast.  At  sunset 
we  halted,  after  coming  ten  miles  over  several  sand-bars 
and  points,  above  a  camp  of  ten  Ricara  lodges,  on  the 
north  side.  We  visited  their  camp,  and  smoked  and  ate 
with  several  of  them  ;  they  all  appeared  kind  and  pleased 
with  our  attentions,  and  the  fair  sex  received  our  men  with 
more  than  hospitality.     York  was  here  again  an  object  of 

^  North  Dakota,  close  to  46',  at  a  creek  now  called  Thunder-hawk.  Piaheto 
(now  Ulackfoot)  creek  meanders  the  boundary  of  South  Dakota,  but  empties 
in  North  Dakota. 


.^y\ 


CHEYENNE,   SOHAWCH,   AND  CHAPAWT  CREEKS.        169 

astonishment;  the  children  would  follow  him  constantly, 
and  if  he  chanced  to  turn  toward  them,  run  with  great  ter- 
ror.  The  country  of  to-day  is  generally  low  and  covered 
with  timber  on  both  sides,  though  in  the  morning  we 
passed  some  barren  hills  on  the  south. 

October  \6th:'     At  this  camp  the  squaw  who  accompanied 
the  chief  left  us  ;  two  others  were  very  anxious  to  go  on 
with  us.     Just  above  our  camp  we  passed  a  circular  work 
or  fort  where  the  Sharha  or  Chayennes  formerly  lived  ;  and 
a  short  distance  beyond,  a  creek  "  which  we  called  Chay- 
enne  creek.     At  two  miles  is  a  willow-island  with  a  large 
sand-bar  on  both  sides  above  it,  and  a  creek,  both  on  the 
south,  which  we  called  Sohawch,  the  Ricara  name  for  girl  ; 
and  two  miles  above  is  a  second  creek,  to  which  we  gave 
the  name  of  Chapawt,  which  means  woman  in  the  same 
language.     Three  miles  further  is  an  island  situated  in  a 
bend  to  the  north,  about  i]4  miles  long,  and  covered  with 
Cottonwood.     At   the   lower  end   of  this   island  {p.   no) 
comes   in  a  small  creek  from  the  north,  called  Keetoosh- 

^  The  Indian  names  in  this  paragraph  are  nearly  all  at  variance  with  Clark  C 
36,  37,  this  date.  The  name  of  the  chief  who  was  aboard  the  boat  is  here 
given  as  Arketarnashar.  The  use  of  "  Sharha  c  Chayennes."  one  singular  and 
the  other  plural,  is  from  the  expression  "  Sliarh  i  or  Chien  or  Dog  Indians  " 
of  the  codex.  The  first  creek  is  "  Chien,"  interlined  Chayenne  or  Sharha. 
The  second  creek  is  "Soharch."  The  third  is  "Charpart."  The  fourth  is 
"  Keetooch  S.irkarn.ir. "  The  fifth  is  as  printed.  The  island  is  said  to  be 
named  Carp  "  by  Ivens,"  elsewhere  called  "  Evins,"  and  discredited. 

"9  Dissociate  this  in  mind  from  any  other  stream  called  Cheyenne.  Chayenne, 
or  Chyenne.  It  is  one  of  the  very  few  located  for  right  or  left  hand  neither  in 
the  codex  nor  in  the  printed  text.  Lewis'  map  shows  three  unlettered  traces, 
from  the  west.  Clark's  has  nothing  whatever  on  this  side,  from  his  Maripa 
(Rampart)  to  the  Cannon-ball.  Warren  names  two  creeks  on  the  left,  the  lower 
Kichisapi  W[akpa].  or  Battle  creek,  the  upper  Pointer  creek.  The  facts  are. 
with  modern  names:  Oct.  JSlh,  Expedition  passed,  i,  Thunder-hawk  creek' 
2,  Battle  creek  ;  3,  Fort  Yates  ;  4.  Standing  Rock  Agency— all  these  left  ;  5.' 
Cat-tail  creek  (Sar'jaone  of  Stevens),  right  ;  6,  Porcupine  or  Pointer  creek 
(Kichisapi  or  Battle  creek  of  Warren);  and  camped  by  an  old  Cheyenne  fort,  on 
the  right  hand.  Now,  Oct.  i6th,  come  i,  Cheyenne  creek,  right?  2,  .Sohawch, 
left ;  3,  Chapawt,  left— one  of  these  being  Pointer  of  Warren,  but  not  other' 
wise  identified.     For  the  rest  of  Oct.  i6th,  see  next  two  notes. 


)   \ 


n 
(1 


t 


^f 


IV 


•H.l 


1? 


170     KEETOOSHSAHAWNA  AND   WARRECONNE  CREEKS. 

sahawiia "  or  Place  of  Beaver.  At  the  upper  extremity 
of  the  island  a  river  empties  from  the  north ;  it  is  called 
Warreconne,"  or  Elk  Shed  their  Horns,  and  is  about  35 
yards  wide.  The  island  itself  was  named  Carp  island 
by  Evans,  a  former  traveler. 

As  we  proceeded  there  were  great  numbers  of  goats 
[antelopes]  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  we  soon  after  saw 
large  flocks  of  them  in  the  water.  They  had  been  gradually 
driven  into  the  river  by  the  Indians,  who  now  lined  the 
shore  so  as  to  prevent  their  escape,  and  were  firing  on  them, 
while  sometimes  boys  went  into  the  river  and  killed  them 
with  sticks ;  they  seemed  to  be  very  successful,  for  we 
counted  58  which  they  had  killed.  We  ourselves  killed 
some,  and  then  passing  the  lodges  to  which  these  Indians 
belonged,  camped  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  on  the 
south,  having  made  14^  miles.  We  were  soon  visited  by 
numbers  of  these  Ricaras,  who  crossed  the  river  hallooing 
and  singing.  Two  of  them  then  returned  for  some  goat's 
flesh  and  bufTalo  meat,  dried  and  fresh,  with  which  they 
m.ide  a  feast  that  lasted  till  late  at  night,  and  caused  much 
music  and  merriment. 

October  \jt/i.  The  weather  was  pleasant.  We  passed  a 
low  ground  covered  with  small  timber  on  the  south,  and 
barren  hills  on  the  north  which  came  close  to  the  river;  the 
wind  from  the  northwest  then  became  so  strong  that  we 
could  not  move  after  ten  o'clock  until  late  in  the  afternoon, 
when  we  were  forced  to  use  the  towline  ;  we  therefore  made 

*"  Sar-har-nar,  Lewis'  map  ;  Sar-har-ne,  Clark's,  on  the  right  hand,  next  below 
the  Warreconne  ;  not  to  be  discovered  on  ordinary  maps;  Little  Beaver  creek  of 
some.  The  word  is  Dakotan,  and  here  Lewis  and  Clark  locate  their  questiona- 
ble "  Teton Saone"  Indians,  of  "  300 men" and"  i,5oosouls"(seenote"',  p.  loi). 

*'  So  Clark  C  37,  and  map,  plainly  ;  Warreconhe  of  Lewis'  map  ;  elsewhere 
Warrecunne  and  Warrecanne  ;  in  Le  Raye.  Warriuna  ;  in  Maximilian,  Waran- 
nano ;  in  Brackenridge,  Warecore,  p.  268.  This  is  the  Beaver  river  of 
Warren's  map,  and  Beaver  creek  of  Reynolds'  and  the  G.  L.  O.  map ;  now 
Big  Beaver  or  Sand  creek.  It  is  the  largest  stream  in  Emmons  Co.  It  rises  by 
two  main  afHuents  in  Logan  and  Mcintosh  counties  respectively,  heading  in 
some  little  lakes,  and  traverses  Emmons  Co.  westerly  to  its  confluence  with  the 
Missouri.     The  town  of  Emmonsburg  is  at  its  mouth. 


CANNON-HALL   klVER. 


171 


only  six  miles.  We  all  went  out  hunting  and  examining 
the  country.  The  goats,  of  which  we  see  large  flocks  com- 
ing to  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  spend  the  summer,  says 
Mr.  Gravelines,  in  the  plains  east  of  the  Missouri,  and  at  the 
present  season  are  returning  to  the  Black  mountains,  where 
they  subsist  on  leaves  and  shrubbery  during  the  winter,  and 
resume  their  migrations  in  the  spring."  We  also  saw 
buffalo,  elk,  and  deer,  and  a  number  of  snakes ;  a  beaver- 
house  too  was  seen,  and  we  caught  a  whippoorwill  of  a  small 
and  uncommon  (/.  ///)  kind."  The  leaves  are  fast  falling; 
the  river  is  wider  than  usual  and  full  of  sand-bars ;  on  the 
sides  of  the  hills  are  large  stones,  and  some  rock  of  a  brown- 
ish color  is  in  the  southern  bend  below  us.  Our  latitude 
by  observation  is  46°  23'  57". 

October  \Zth,  After  three  miles  we  reached  the  mouth 
of  Le  Boulet  or  Cannonball  river.  This  stream  rises  in 
the  Black  mountains"  and  falls  into  the  Missouri  on  the 
south  [from  the  west] ;  its  channel  is  about  140  yards  wide, 
though  the  water  is  now  confined  within  40;  its  name  is 
derived  from  the  numbers  of  perfectly  round  large  stones 
on  the  shore  and  in  the  bluffs  just  above.     We  here  met 

"  "  This  chief,"  who  was  aboard,  "tells  me  of  a  number  of  their  tredetions 
about  Turtles,  Snakes,  &c.,  and  the  power  of  a  perticuler  rock  or  cove  on  the 
next  river  which  informs  of  everything  none  of  those  I  think  worth  while  men- 
tioning," Clark  C  40.  The  hunting  party  to-day  killed  six  deer,  which  were 
"  scaffeled  up,"  /.  e.,  scaffolded,  out  of  reach  of  the  wolves. 

*»  This  is  the  bird  long  afterward  first  described  and  named  by  Audubon  (Orn. 
Diog.,  V,  1839,  p.  335)  as  Caprimulgiis  nuttalli  or  Nuttall's  whippoorwill,  now 
known  to  science  as  Phatitnoptilus  nuttalli. 

^  Our  authors  use  the  term  "  Black  mountains  "  in  a  looser  sense  than  we  now 
say  "  Black  hills,"  for  any  of  the  elevated  country  to  the  west  of  the  Missouri  in 
Northern  Nebraska  and  both  Dakotas.  The  codices  commonly  name  them  as 
the  Cout  or  Court  noi  or  nue  or  nou,  i.  e..  Cote  Noir.  The  Cannon-ball  rises  by 
two  main  branches,  north  and  south,  and  many  tributary  streams,  somewhat 
north  of  the  Black  hills  proper,  and  east  of  the  Little  Missouri  river  ;  flows 
in  a  general  east  course,  traversing  Hettinger  and  Morton  counties,  and  falls 
into  the  Missouri  in  Morton  Co.,  on  the  boundary  of  lioreman,  and  opposite 
Emmons,  eight  miles  below  the  site  of  Fort  Rice.  Its  Dakotan  name  was 
Inyan  Wakarap  (so  Warren)  or  Wakahap  (so  Reynolds).  It  is  also  called 
simply  Ball  river. 


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172 


CHEWAH   OR  FISH    RIVER. 


with  two  Frenchmen  in  the  employ  of  Mr.  Gravclines,  who 
hud  been  robbed  by  the  Mandans  of  their  traps,  furs,  and 
otlier  articles,  and  were  descending  the  river  in  a  pcriogue  ; 
but  they  turned  back  with  us  in  expectation  of  obtaining 
redress  through  our  means.  At  eight  miles  is  a  creek  on 
the  north  [in  Emmons  Co.],  about  28  yards  wide,  rising  in 
the  northeast,  and  called  Chewah"  or  Fish  river;  one  mile 
above  this  is  another  creek  on  the  south  [near  Fort  Rice  ], 
We  camped  on  a  sand-bar  to  the  south,  at  the  distance  of 
13  miles,  all  of  which  we  have  made  with  oars  and  poles. 
Great  numbers  of  goats  are  crossing  the  river  and  directing 
their  course  to  the  westward  ;  wc  also  saw  a  herd  of  buffalo 
and  of  elk  ;  a  pelican  too  was  killed,  and  six  fallow-deer,  we 
having  found,  as  the  Ricaras  informed  us,  that  there  are 
none  of  the  black-tailed  species  as  high  up  as  this  place.** 
The  country  is  in  general  level  and  fine,  with  broken  short 
high  grounds,  low  timbered  mounds  on  the  river,  and  a 
rugged  range  of  hills  at  a  distance. 

October  igf/i.  We  set  sail  with  a  fine  morning  and  a 
southeast  wind,  and  at  2^  miles  passed  a  creek  on  the 
north  side;  at  ll^  miles  we  came  to  a  lake  or  large 
pond  on  the  same  side,  in  which  were  some  swans.  On 
both  banks  of  the  Missouri  are  low  grounds  which  have 
much  more  timber  than  lower  down  the  river.  The  hills 
are  at  one  or  two  miles'  distance  from  the  banks,  the  streams 
which  rise  in  them  are  brackish,  and  the  mineral  salts  appear 
on  (/.  T12)  the  sides  of  the  hills  and  edges  of  the  runs.  In 
walking  along  the  shore  we  counted  52  herds  of  buffalo, 
and  three  of  elk,  at  a  single  view.     Besides  these,  we  also 

*'  So  Clark  C  43  ;  "  She-wish  or  Fish  Cr.,"  Clark  C  250  ;  Shewash  of  Maxi- 
milian ;  Fish  creek  on  both  Lewis'  and  Clark's  maps  ;  Apple  creek  of  Stevens  ; 
Long  Lake  creek  of  later  and  of  present  maps,  emptying  from  the  east  five 
miles  below  Fort  Rice.  A  little  north  of  the  Chewah  was  an  old  trading-house, 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Missouri. 

*•  The  fallow-deer  (Damn  plufyceros)  is  a  European  species,  not  found  in 
North  America,  the  animal  meant  being  the  Western  variety  of  the  Virginia 
deer.  The  black-tailed  deer  has  no  such  restricted  range  as  the  paragraph 
implies,  but  very  likely  had  been  killed  off  in  this  particular  locality. 


OI,n   MANPAN   VII.IAGE— VARIOUS  CREEKS. 


'73 


observed  elk,  deer,  pelicans,  and  wolves.  After  lyyi  miles 
wc  camped  on  the  north,  opposite  the  uppermost  of  a 
number  of  round  hills,  forming  a  cone  at  the  top,  one  Li'lng 
about  90,  another  60  feet  in  height,  and  some  of  less 
elevation.  Our  chief  tells  us  that  the  calumet-bird"  lives 
in  the  holes  formed  by  the  filtration  of  the  water  from  the 
top  of  these  hills  through  the  sides.  Near  one  of  these 
moles,  on  a  point  of  a  hill  90  feet  above  the  plain,  are  the 
remains  of  an  old  village  which  is  high,  strong,  and  has 
been  fortified  ;  this  our  chief  tells  us  is  the  remains  of  one 
of  the  Mandan  villages,  and  these  are  the  first  ruins  which 
we  have  seen  of  that  nation  in  ascending  the  Missouri, 
Opposite  our  camp  is  a  deep  bend  to  the  south,  at  the 
extremity  of  which  is  a  pond.  [Camp  is  in  Bismarck  Co.] 
October  20th.  VVc  [)roceeded  early  with  a  southeast  wind 
which  continued  high  all  day,  and  came  to  a  creek*"  on  the 
north  [in  Bismarck  Co.]  at  two  miles'  distance,  20  yards  wide. 
At  eight  miles  we  reached  the  lower  point  of  an  island*"  in 
the  middle  of  the  river,  though  there  is  no  current  on  the 
south.  This  island  is  covered  with  willows  and  extends 
about  two  miles,  a  small  creek'"  coming  in  from  the  south  at 
its  lower  extremity.  After  making  twelve  miles  we  camped 
on  the  south,  at  the  upper  part  of  ablufi  containing  stone- 

■"  The  crev.isses  and  ledges  of  w.iter-worn  or  weather-beaten  bhiffsare  f.ivorite 
nesting-pl.ices  for  e.igles  and  other  large  birds  of  prey  in  the  upper  Missouri 
country.  I  h.-»ve  there  examined  some  nests  of  enormous  size,  resorted  to  year 
.ifter  year,  probably  by  the  same  pairs  of  birds.  They  are  often  inaccessible, 
or  only  to  be  reached  by  means  of  a  rope,  with  much  difficulty  and  danger  ;  li\;t 
sometimes  they  are  built  simply  on  the  edge  of  a  bluff,  to  which  one  may  walk 
on  smooth  gioun.l.  The  "  callemet  bird,"  Clark  C  45,  has  already  been  men- 
tioned as  the  golden  eagle,  AqtiHa  chrysaetos. 

■"•  Nameless  in  the  codices,  and  so  in  the  text,  but  plainly  "  Shepherds  Cr. "  of 
Lewis'  map,  and  "  Shepherd  U."  of  Clark's,  with  the  first  (old)  Mandan  villaj,'e 
marked  at  its  mouth.  Apple  creek  or  Burleigh  creek  of  various  late  mnps, 
from  the  east,  in  Bismarck  Co. 

■"  Nameless  in  the  codices,  and  shown  on  neither  map  ;  Burnt  BoJit  island  of 
Warren's  ;  Sibley's  island  of  the  G.  L.  O.  map,  1879  i  very  large,  in  the  river 
between  Bismarck  and  Morton  Cos. 

"  Nameless,  and  uncharted.  Little  Heart  or  Sturgis  river  of  various  maps, 
in  Morton  Co.     Little  Heart  and  Sugar-loaf  buttes  just  south  of  it. 


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'74 


OLD    MANDAN    VILLAGE — HKAUT    RIVER. 


coal  of  an  interior  quality  ;  immediately  below  this  bluff  and 
on  the  declivity  of  a  hill  are  the  remains  of  a  village  cov- 
ering six  or  eight  acres,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Mandans, 
who,  says  our  Ricara  chief,  once  lived  in  a  number  of 
villages  on  each  side  of  the  river,  till  the  Sioux  forced  them 
40  miles  higher ;  whence,  after  a  few  years'  residence,  they 
moved  to  their  present  position.  The  country  through 
which  we  passed  has  wider  bottoms  and  more  timber  than 
those  we  have  been  accustomed  to  sec,  the  hills  rising  at 
a  distance  and  by  gradual  ascents.  We  have  seen  great 
numbers  of  elk,  deer  (/.  iij),  goats,  and  buffalo,  and  the 
usual  attendants  of  these  last,  the  wolves,  which  follow  their 
movements  and  feed  upon  those  which  die  by  accident  or 
which  are  too  poor  to  keep  pace  with  the  herd.  We  also 
wounded  a  white  bear,  and  saw  some  fresh  tracks  of  those 
animals,  which  are  twice  as  large  as  the  track  of  a  man. 

October  21st.  Last  night  the  weather  was  cold,  the  wind 
high  from  the  northeast,  and  the  rain  which  fell  froze  on 
the  ground.  At  daylight  it  began  to  snow  and  continued 
till  the  afternoon,  when  it  remained  cloudy  and  the  ground 
was  covered  with  snow.  However,  we  set  out  early,  and 
just  above  our  camp  came  to  a  creek  on  the  south,  called 
Chisshetaw,"  about  30  yards  wide  and  with  a  considerable 
quantity  of  water. 

Our  Ricara  chief  tells  us  that  at  some  distance  up  this 
river  is  situated  a  large  rock,  which  is  held  in  great  vciiCra- 

^'  Elsewhere  printed  Chesshetah  .ind  Chesschetar  ;  in  Gass  Cliisclieet  ;  in 
Le  R.-iye  Chuss-chu  ;  in  tlie  codices  variant  ;  "  Clies-che-tar  or  Heart  R."  of 
botli  maps  ;  Ta  Clianta  Wakpa  of  Warren's  and  of  Reynolds'  ;  Kig  Heart  river 
of  maps  which  call  Sturgis  river  Little  Heart  (see  note  ^",  above).  Lewis  and 
Clark's  name  is  uneasy,  and  lapsed  ;  but  it  might  have  survived  in  the  English 
form  of  "Chester."  This  is  Heart  river,  heading  mainly  in  .Stark  Co.,  and 
coursing  with  a  considerable  southward  loop  through  Morton  Co.,  to  fall  into 
the  Missouri  opposite  liismarck,  now  the  capital  of  North  Dakot.i 

At  this  date  the  Expedition  comes  past  the  point  where  the  N'orthern  Pacific 
R.R.  crosses  the  Missouri,  with  Bismarck  on  the  left  bank  (right  as  you 
ascend)  and  F"ort  Abr.aham  Lincoln  on  the  right.  Here  began  the  series  of 
Mandan  villages  which  extendeil  many  miles  up  river,  and  here  is  the  pres'.-nt 
Mandan,  county  town  of    Morton,  on  Ikart  river,  ne.ir  il^  inoutli. 


I 


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HOLY   ROCKS   AND   TREES— MANDAN   VILLAGES.       1 75 

tion,  and  visited  by  parties  who  go  to  consult  it  as  to  their 
own  or  their  nation's  destinies,  all  of  which  they  discern 
in  some  sort  of  figures  or  paintings  with  which  it  is  cov- 
ered. About  two  miles  off  from  the  mouth  of  the  river 
the  party  on  shore  saw  another  of  the  objects  of  Ricara 
superstition  ;  it  is  a  large  oak  tree,  standing  alone  in  the 
open  prairie,  and  as  it  alone  has  withstood  the  fire  which 
has  consumed  everything  around,  the  Indians  naturally 
ascribe  to  it  extraordinary  powers.  One  of  their  cere- 
monies is  to  make  a  hole  in  the  skin  of  their  necks,  through 
which  a  string  is  passed  and  the  other  end  tied  to  the  body 
of  the  tree  ;  after  remaining  in  this  way  for  some  time  they 
think  they  become  braver. 

At  two  miles  from  our  camp  we  came  to  the  ruins  of  a 
second  Mandan  village,  which  was  in  existence  at  the  same 
time  with  that  just  mentioned.  It  is  situated  on  the  north 
at  the  foot  of  a  hill  in  a  beautiful  and  extensive  plain' 
which  IS  now  covered  with  herds  of  buffalo  ;  nearly  oppo- 
site are  remains  of  a  third  village,  on  the  south  of  the 
Missouri ;  and  there  is  another  also  about  two  miles  further 
on  the  north,  a  little  off  the  river.  At  the  distance  of 
ven  miles  we  camped  on  the  south,"  and  spent  (/.  //^)  a 
cjld  night.  We  procured  to-day  a  buffalo  and  an  otter 
ILutra  canc^dt•nsis^,  only.  The  river  is  wide,  the  sand-bars 
are  numerous,  and  a  low  island  is  near  our  camp. 

October  22d.  In  the  morning  we  passed  an  old  Mandan 
village  on  the  south,  near  our  camp  ;  at  four  miles  another 
on  the  same  side.  About  seven  o'clock  we  came-to  at  a  camp 
of  II  h.oux  of  the  Teton  tribe,  w'.o  are  almost  perfectly 
naked,  having  only  a  piece  of  skin  or  cloth  round  the 
middle,  though  we  are  suffering  from  the  cold.  From  their 
appearance,  which  is  warlike,  and  from  their  giving  two 
different  accounts  of  themselves,  wc  believe  that  they  are 
either  going  to  or  returning  from  the  Mandans.  to  which 
nation    the    Sioux    frequently    make    excursions    to    steal 

"That  is,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri,  still  in  Morton  Co.,  but  approach- 
ing Oliver  C,..,  having  passed  Burnt  Boat  or  Burnt  creek,  in  Bismarck  Co. 


i  fij 


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176 


MANDAN  AND   AHNAHAWAY   VILLAGES. 


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horses.  As  their  conduct  displeased  us,  we  gave  them 
nothing.  At  six  o'clock  we  reached  an  island  about  one 
mile  in  length,  at  the  head  of  which  is  a  Mandan  village  on 
the  north  in  ruins ;  and  two  miles  beyond  is  a  bad  sand- 
bar. At  eight  miles  are  remains  of  another  Mandan  village 
on  the  south ;  at  twelve  miles  we  camped  on  the  south." 
The  hunters  brought  in  a  buffalo  bull,  and  mentioned 
that  of  about  300  which  they  had  seen  there  was  not  a 
single  female.  The  beaver  is  here  in  plenty,  and  the 
two  Frenchmen  who  are  returning  with  us  catch  several 
every  night. 

These  villages,  which  are  nine  in  number,  are  scattered 
along  each  side  of  the  river  within  a  space  of  20  miles ; 
almost  all  that  remains  of  them  is  the  wall  which  sur- 
rounded  them,  the  fallen  heaps  of  earth  which  covered 
the  houses,  and  occasionally  human  skulls  and  the  teeth 
and  bones  of  men  and  different  animals,  which  are  scat- 
tered on  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

October  23^.  The  weather  was  cloudy  and  we  had  some 
snow.  We  soon  arrived  at  the  five  lodges  where  the  two 
Frenchmen  had  been  robbed,  but  the  Indians  had  left 
them  lately,  as  we  found  the  fires  still  burning.  The 
country  consists  as  usual  of  timbered  low  grounds,  with 
grapes,  rushes,  and  great  quantities  of  a  small  red  acid 
fruit  \Slicpherdia  argcntea\  known  among  the  {p.  11^) 
Indians  by  a  name  signifying  rabbit-berries,  and  called  by 
the  French  graisse  de  buffle  or  buffalo-fat.  The  river  is 
obstructed  by  many  sand-bars.  At  twelve  miles  we  passed 
an  old  village  on  the  north,  which  was  the  former  residence 
of  the  Ahwahaways"  who  now  live  between  the  Mandans 
and  the  Minnetarees.  After  making  13  miles  [without 
noticing  various  creeks]  we  camped  on  the  south." 

''  In  Oliver  Co.    Square  Butte  creek  passed  early  this  morning. 

"  Sic — and  in  the  Statistical  View  spelled  Ahwahhaway.  Clark  C  54  has 
Ahnahaw.is,  otherwise  called  there  Maharha  Indians,  as  a  band  of  Minnetarrees. 
See  note  beyond. 

"  Vicinity  of  Sanger,  Oliver  Co.,  a  little  south  of  Deer  creek. 


MANDAN  AND  ARIKARA  VILLAGES. 


177 


October  2\th.  The  day  was  again  dark,  and  it  snowed  a 
little  in  the  morning.  At  three  miles  we  came  to  a  point 
on  the  south  where  the  river,  by  forcing  a  channel  across  a 
former  bend,  has  formed  a  large  island  "  on  the  north.  On 
this  island  we  found  one  of  the  grand  chiefs  of  the  Man- 
dans,  who,  with  five  lodges,  was  on  a  hunting  excursion. 
He  met  his  enemy  the  Ricara  chief  with  great  ceremony 
and  apparent  cordiality,  and  smoked  with  him.  After 
visiting  his  lodges,  the  grand  chief  and  his  brother  came  on 
board  our  boat  for  a  short  time.  We  then  proceeded  and 
camped  on  the  north,  at  seven  miles  from  our  last  night's 
station,  and  below  the  old  village  of  the  Mandans  and 
Ricaras.  Here  four  Mandans  came  down  from  a  camp 
above,  and  our  Ricara  chief  returned  with  them  to  their 
camp,  from  which  we  augur  favorably  of  their  pacific 
views  toward  each  other.  The  land  is  low  and  beautiful, 
and  covered  with  oak  and  Cottonwood,  but  has  been  too 
recently  hunted  to  afford  much  game. 

October  2^th.  The  morning  was  cold,  and  the  wind  gentle 
from  the  southeast.  At  three  miles  we  passed  a  handsome 
high  prairie  on  the  south  ;  and  on  an  eminence,  about  40 
feet  above  the  water  and  extending  back  for  several  miles 
in  a  beautiful  plain,  was  situated  an  old  village  of  the 
Mandan  nation,  which  has  been  deserted  for  many  years. 
A  short  distance  above  it,  on  the  continuation  of  the  same 
rising  ground,  are  two  old  villages  of  Ricaras,  one  on  the  top 
of  the  hill,  the  other  in  the  level  plain,  which  were  deserted 
only  five  years  ago.  Above  these  villages  is  an  extensive 
low  ground  for  several  miles,  in  which  are  situated,  at  three 
or  four  miles  from  the  Ricara  villages,  three  old  vil-  {p.  116) 
lages  of  Mr.ndans  near  together.  Here  the  Mandans  lived 
when  the  Ricaras  came  to  them  for  protection,  and  from 

"  Very  plain  on  Clark's  map,  1814,  immediately  underneath  the  word  "  and  " 
of  the  sentence  there  inscribed.  There  is  now  nothing  of  the  sort  ;  instead  of 
which  is  a  considerable  lake,  indicating  the  change  in  the  course  of  the  Missouri. 
This  is  in  McLean  Co.,  above  Sanger  (Oliver  Co.),  and  below  Washburn  (McLean 
Co.),  in  the  vicinity  of  which  latter  town  to-day's  camp  is  pitched,  after  passing 
Deer  creek,  left,  and  Painted  Wood  and  Turtle  creeks,  right. 


( 


Pt'^ 

'  ■ 
II' 

1 


f         ! 


I 


^., 


I'l 


;'i 


i;8 


VISITS   EXCHANGED  WITH   MANDANS. 


this  they  moved  to  their  present  situation  above.  In  the 
low  ground  the  squaws  raised  their  corn,  and  the  timber, 
of  which  there  was  little  near  the  villages,  was  supplied 
from  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  where  it  was  and  still 
is  abundant. 

As  we  proceeded  several  parties  of  Mandans,  both  on 
foot  and  horseback,  came  along  the  river  to  view  us,  and 
were  very  desirous  that  we  should  land  and  talk  to  them. 
This  we  could  not  do  on  account  of  the  sand-breaks  on  the 
shore,  but  we  sent  our  Ricara  .'lei  to  them  in  a  periogue. 
The  wind  having  shifted  to  the  southwest  and  being  very 
high,  it  required  all  our  precautions  on  board,  for  the  river 
was  full  of  sand-bars,  which  made  it  very  difficult  to  find 
the  channel.  We  got  aground  several  times,  and  passed  a 
very  bad  point  of  rocks,  after  which  we  camped  on  a  sand- 
point  to  the  north,"  above  a  handsome  plain  covered 
with  timber,  opposite  a  high  hill  on  the  south  side,  at 
the  distance  of  ii  miles.  Here  we  were  joined  by  our 
Ricara  chief,  who  brought  an  Indian  to  the  camp,  where  he 
remained  all  night." 

October  26th.  We  set  out  early  with  a  southwest  wind, 
and  after  putting  the  Ricara  chief  on  shore  to  join  the 
Mandans,  who  were  in  great  numbers  along  it,  we  proceeded 
to  the  camp  of  the  grand  chiefs,  four  miles  distant..  Here 
we  met  a  Mr.  M'Cracken,  one  of  the  Northwest  or  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  who  arrived  with  another  person  about 
nine  days  ago  to  trade  for  horses  and  buffalo-robes.  Two 
of  the  chiefs  came  on  board  with  some  of  their  house- 
hold furniture,  such  as  earthen  pots,  and  a  little  corn,  and 
went  on  with  us,  the  rest  of  the  Indians  following  on  shore. 
At  one  mile  beyond  the  camp  we  passed  a  small  creek,  and 

"In  McLean  Co.;  approaching  Stanton  (on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  in 
Mercer  Co.). 

"  Clark  C  59,  this  date,  has  a  relation  not  in  the  text.  "  We  are  told  that  the 
Seaux  has  latterly  fallen  in  with  &  stole  the  horses  of  the  Big  bellies  [Gros- 
ventres],  on  their  way  home  they  fell  in  with  the  Ossiniboine  who  killed  them 
and  took  their  horses — a  french  man  has  latterly  been  killed  by  the  Indians  oa 
the  Track  to  the  tradeing  establishment  on  the  Ossinebine  R." 


V 

7 

: 


m^ 


Ill 


ARRIVAL   AT   WINTER   QUARTERS. 


m 


at  three"  more  a  bluff  of  coal  of  an  inferior  quality,  on  the 
south.  After  making  ii  miles  we  reached  an  old  field 
where  the  Mandans  had  cultivated  grain  last  summer,  and 
camped  for  the  night  on  the  {p.  nj)  south  side,  about  half 
a  mile  below  the  first  village  of  the  Mandans."  In  the 
morning  we  had  a  low  willow  ground  on  the  south  and 
high  land  on  the  north,  which  occasionally  varied  in  the 
course  of  the  day.  There  is  but  little  wood  on  this  part 
of  the  river,  which  is  here  subdivided  into  many  channels 
and  obstructed  by  sand-bars. 

As  soon  as  we  arrived  a  crowd  of  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren came  down  to  see  us.  Captain  Lewis  returned  with 
the  principal  chiefs  to  the  village,  while  the  others  remained 
with  us  during  the  evening.  The  object  which  seemed  to 
surprise  them  most  was  a  corn-mill  fixed  to  the  boat,  which 
we  had  occasion  to  use,  and  delighted  them  by  the  ease 
with  which  it  reduced  the  grain  to  powder.  Among  others 
who  visited  us  was  the  son  of  the  grand  chief  of  the  Man- 
dans,  who  had  his  two  little  fingers  cut  off  at  the  second 
joints.  On  inquiring  into  this  accident,  we  found  that  it 
was  customary  to  express  grief  for  the  death  of  relations 
by  some  corporeal  suffering,  and  that  the  usual  mode 
was  to  lose  two  joints  of  the  little  fingers,  or  sometimes  of 
the  other  fingers.  The  wind  blew  very  cold  in  the  even- 
ing from  the  southwest.  Two  of  the  party  are  affected 
with  rheumatic  complaints. 

■•'At  this,  the  eighth  mile  made  to-day,  Clarlt  C  63  inserts:  "Fort  Man- 
dan  stard.'Mn  a  bold  hand,  over  an  erasure  made  for  this  later  entry—/,  t., 
noting  the  exact  spot  where  the  Fort  was  presently  built,  just  above  the 
bluff  of  coal. 

"'  The  party  are  to  winter  in  this  vicinity,  with  the  Mandans,  at  a  point  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  river,  three  miles  below  here,  and  seven  or  eight  below 
the  mouth  of  Knife  river.  They  will  call  their  winter  quarters  Fort  Mandan. 
The  locality  became  better  known  as  Fort  Clark,  from  a  trading-post  after- 
ward established  on  the  south  bank,  and  therefore  in  what  is  now  Mercer  Co. 
The  spot  is  marked  on  some  maps  of  lo  day  by  this  name.  The  Missouri  along 
here  separates  McLean  from  Mercer  Co.  Fort  Mandan,  being  on  the  north 
bank,  was  in  what  is  now  McLean  Co.  The  latitude,  by  observation  probably 
not  exact,  was  47°  21'  47"  ;  estimated  distance  up  the  Missouri,  1,600  miles. 


CHAPTER  V. 

WINTERING  WITH  THE  MANDANS. 

Meeting  with  Minnetarees  and  Ahnahaways— M.  Jesseaume — Search  fof  a  site — Council  with 
the  Indians— Treaty  between  Mandans  and  Kicaras— Chiefs  o(  the  five  villages — Prairie 
lire,  and  a  narrow  escape— Renewed  search  for  a  site— Invitation  from  the  grand  chief  of 
the  Mandans — Diplomatic  Correspondence — Building  of  Fort  Mandan  begun — Engage- 
ment of  Lepage,  a  Canadian  Frenchman — Hunting  party  sent  out  —Indian  method  of  catch- 
ing antelopes — Northern  Lights — Floating  ice — Assiniboins  and  Knisteneaux  with  the 
Mandans— Very  cold  weather— Black  Cat's  visit— Result  of  Indian  deliberations— Occupa- 
tion of  Fort  Mandan — Five  villages  of  Indian  nations  in  the  vicinity — History  of  these 
Indians — Intended  atrocity  prevented — Visits  of  Mlnnetaree  and  Ahnahaway  chiefs — 
Horned  Weasel  declines  overtures— Snow— Injunction  of  Mr.  Laroche,  a  British  trader- 
Collision  of  Mandans  and  Sioux— Intervention  of  Captain  Clark— Indian  gratitude— Mr. 
Henderson,  a  trader — Peace  to  be  kept  between  the  Indians — The  Mandan  religion — 
Tradition  of  their  origin— Indian  buffalo-hunt — Thermometer  below  zero— Frost-bites — 
Arrival  of  Mr.  Haney — International  courtesies— Indian  game — Rocky  Mountain  sheep- 
Christmas  festivities — Particular  account  of  the  Sioux,  etc. 

SATURDAY,  October  27th,  1804.  At  an  early  hour  we 
proce.'tjed  and  anchored  off  the  village.  Captain  Clark 
went  on  shore,  and  after  smoking  a  pipe  with  the  chiefs,  was 
desired  to  remain  and  eat  with  them.  He  declined  on  ac- 
count of  being  unwell ;  but  his  refusal  gave  great  offense 
to  the  Indians,  who  considered  it  disrespectful  not  to  eat 
when  invited,  till  the  cause  was  explained  to  their  satisfac- 
tion. We  sent  them  some  tobacco,  and  then  proceeded  to 
the  second  village  on  the  north,  passing  by  a  bank  contain- 
ing coal,  and  the  second  village,'  and  camped  at  four  miles 
on  the  north,  opposite  a  village  of  Ahnahaways.  We  here 
met  with  a  Frenchman  named  Jesseaume,  who  lives  among 
the  Indians  with  his  wife  and  children,  and  whom  we  take 
as  an  interpreter.  The  Indians  had  flocked  to  the  bank  to 
see  us  as  we  passed,  and  they  visited  in  great  numbers  the 
camp,  where  some  of  them  remained  all  night.  We  sent  in 
the  evening  three  young  Indians  with  a  present  of  tobacco 

'  "  Passed  the  2d  Village  and  camped  opsd.  the  Village  of  the  Wetersoon  or 
Ahwahharways,"  Clark  C  65.  The  Frenchman's  name  is  variable  in  the  codices. 
Here  it  is  spelled  Jessamme  or  Jessomme.    His  Christian  name  was  Rene. 

180 


. 


'. -« 


pn  or 
pices. 


K 


3 


PRELIMINARY  AMENITIES. 


I8l 


for  the  chiefs  of  the  three  upper  villages,  inviting  them  to 
come  down  in  the  morning  to  a  council  with  us.  Accord- 
ingly the  next  day, 

Sunday,  October  2StA,  we  were  joined  by  many  of  the 
Minnetarees  and  Ahnahaways  from  above ;  but  the  wind 
was  so  violent  from  the  southwest  that  the  chiefs  of  the 
lower  {p.  up)  villages  could  not  come  up,  and  the  council 
was  deferred  till  to-morrow.  Meanwhile,  we  entertained 
our  visitors  by  showing  them  what  was  new  to  them  in  the 
boat ;  all  which,  as  well  as  our  black  servant,  they  called 
"great  medicine,"  the  meaning  of  which  we  afterward 
learned.  We  also  consulted  the  grand  chief  of  the  Man- 
dans,  Black  Cat,  and  Mr.  Jesseaume,  as  to  the  names, 
characters,  etc.,  of  the  chiefs  with  whom  we  are  to  hold  the 
council.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  received  several 
presents  from  the  women,  consisting  of  corn,  boiled  hominy, 
and  garden  stuffs  ;  in  our  turn  we  gratified  the  wife  of  the 
great  chief  with  a  gift  of  a  glazed  earthen  jar.'  Our  hunter 
[Drewyer]  brought  us  two  beaver.  In  the  afternoon  we 
sent  the  Minnetaree  chiefs  to  smoke  for  us  with  the  great 
chief  of  the  Mandans,  and  told  them  we  would  speak  in 
the  morning. 

Finding  that  we  shall  be  obliged  to  pass  the  winter  at 
this  place,  we  went  up  the  river  about  i}4  miles  to-day, 
with  the  view  of  finding  a  convenient  spot  for  a  fort ;  but 
the  timber  was  too  scarce  and  small  for  our  purposes. 

October  2gt/i.  The  morning  was  fine,  and  we  prepared 
our  presents  and  speech  for  the  council.  After  breakfast 
we  were  visited  by  an  old  chief  of  the  Ahnahaways,  who, 
finding  himself  growing  old  and  weak,  had  transferred  his 
power  to  his  son,'  who  is  now  at  war  against  the  Shosho- 
nees.     At  ten  o'clock  the  chiefs  were  all  assembled  under 

'  "  I  present  a  jah  to  the  chiefs  wife  who  vewed  it  with  much  pleasure,"  Clark 
C  63,  with  "  earthern  jar  glazed  "  interlined  in  red  inlv. 

'  "After  Brackfust  we  were  visited  by  the  old  Cheaf  of  the  Big  btllies  .  .  . 
this  man  was  old  and  had  transRred  his  power  to  his  Sun,"  Clark  C  69 — which 
is  the  most  credible  solar  myth  ever  penned  by  mortal  hand. 


iS 


182 


OFFICIAL  RECOGNITION  OF  CHIEFS. 


■:    '      V: 


h     1 


!  i 


an  awning  of  our  sails,  stretched  so  as  to  exclude  the 
wind,  which  had  become  high.  That  the  impression  might 
be  the  more  forcible,  the  men  were  all  paraded,  and  the 
council  was  opened  by  a  discharge  from  the  swivel  of  the 
boat.  We  then  delivered  a  speech  which,  like  those  we 
had  already  made,  intermingled  advice  with  assurances  of 
friendship  and  trade.  While  we  were  speaking  the  old 
Ahnahaway  chief  grew  very  restless,  and  observed  that  he 
could  not  wait  long,  as  his  camp  was  exposed  to  the  hostil- 
ities of  the  Shoshonees.  He  was  instantly  rebuked  with 
great  dignity  by  one  of  the  chiefs  for  this  violation  of  deco- 
rum at  such  a  moment,  and  remain-  (/.  120)  ed  quiet  during 
the  rest  of  the  council.  Toward  the  end  of  our  speech  we 
introduced  the  subject  of  our  Ricara  chief,  with  whom  we 
recommended  a  firm  peace.  To  this  they  seemed  well  dis- 
posed, and  all  smoked  with  him  very  amicably.  We  all 
mentioned  the  goods  which  had  been  taken  from  the 
Frenchmen,  and  expressed  a  wish  that  they  should  be  re- 
stored. This  being  over,  we  proceeded  to  distribute  the 
presents  with  great  ceremony.  One  chief  of  each  town  was 
acknowledged  by  a  gift  of  a  flag,  a  medal  with  the  likeness 
of  the  President  of  the  United  States,  a  uniform  coat,  hat 
and  feather.  To  the  second  chiefs  we  gave  a  medal  repre- 
senting some  domestic  animals  and  a  loom  for  weaving ; 
to  the  third  chiefs,  medals  with,  the  impressions  of  a  farmer 
sowing  grain.  A  variety  of  other  presents  were  distrib- 
uted, but  none  seemed  to  give  them  more  satisfaction 
than  an  iron  corn-mill  which  we  gave  to  the  Mandans. 

The  chiefs  who  were  made  to-day  are  :  Shahaka  *  or  Big 
White,  a  first  chief ;  and  Kagohami  or  Little  Raven,  a  sec- 
ond chief,  of  the  lower  village  of  the  Mandans  called  Ma- 
tootonha.'  The  other  chiefs,  of  an  inferior  quality,  who  were 
recommended  were  :  i.  Ohheenaw  or  Big  Man,  a  Chayenne 
taken  prisoner  by  the  Mandans,  who  adopted  him ;  he  now 

*"She-he-ke   is  a   fat   man,    not   much   distinguished   as    a    warrior,  and 
extremely  talkative,"  Brackenridge's  Journal,  1814,  p.  261. 
•  Ma-too-ton'-ka  in  the  Statistical  View,  1807. 


ROSTER  OF  CHIEFS   RECOGNIZED. 


183 


enjoys  great  consideration  among  the  tribe.  2.  Shotahavv- 
rora  or  Coal,  of  the  second  Mandan  village,  which  is  called 
Rooptahee."  We  made  Poscopsahe  or  Black  Cat,  the  first 
chief  of  the  village  and  the  grand  chief  of  the  whole  Man- 
dan  nation.  His  second  chief  is  Kagonomokshe  or  Raven- 
Man  Chief ;  inferior  chiefs  of  this  village  are  Tawnuheo 
and  Bellahsara,  of  which  names  we  did  not  learn  the  trans- 
lation. 

In  the  third  village,  which  is  called  Mahawha  [or  Ma- 
haha  or  Maharhar],  and  where  the  Arwacahwas  '  reside,  we 
made  one  first  chief,  Tetuckopinreha  or  White  Buffalo- 
Pobe  Unfolded,  and  recognized  two  of  an  inferior  order  : 
Minnissurraree  or  Neighing  Horse,  and  Locongotiha  or 
Old  Woman  at  a  Distance. 

{p.  121)  Of  the  fourth  village,  where  the  Minnetarees' 


•  Roop-tar'-har  in  the  Statistical  View,  1807. 

'  Sic — misprint  for  Ahnahaways  or  Ahwahhaways,  as  before.  These  are  the 
Indians  known  to  the  French  as  Gens  des  Souliers  ;  they  are  of  Siouan  stock, 
closely  related  to  the  Hidatsas,  Minnetarees  or  Grosventres,  and  are  offshoots 
of  the  Crows.  The  Statistical  View  gives  them  a  population  of  200,  with  so 
warriors,  and  notes  their  defensive  warfare  with  the  Sioux  and  offensive  wars  with 
the  Snakes  and  the  Flatheads.  "  They  differ  but  very  little,  in  any  particular, 
from  the  Mandans,  their  neighbours,  except  in  the  unjust  war  which  they,  as 
well  as  the  Minetares,  prosecute  against  the  defenceless  Snake  [Shoshonean] 
Indians,  from  which,  I  believe,  it  will  be  difficult  to  induce  them  to  desist.  They 
claim  to  have  once  been  a  part  of  the  Crow  Indians,  whom  they  still  acknowl- 
edge as  relations.  They  have  resided  on  the  Missouri  as  long  as  their  traditions 
will  enable  them  to  inform."  (London  ed.  Statistical  View,  1807,  p.  20.) 
They  kept  up  a  separate  tribal  organization  for  about  thirty  years  after  Lewis 
and  Clark  found  them,  and  then  merged  into  the  Hidatsas.  Their  proper  name 
is  Amahami. 

"  The  name  fluctuates  in  spelling,  much  as  usual,  with  one  n  or  two,  and 
variable  vowels.  The  above  is  good  form,  and  is  current :  compare  Minne- 
haha, Minne-apolis,  etc.  It  is  the  Mandan  name  of  these  Indians,  not  their 
own,  and  means  to  cross  water.  The  best  form  is  Minilari,  or  Midi-tadi 
(water  to  cross  ;  consonants  d,  it,  I,  r  interchangeable).  Other  forms  are 
Minatari,  Manitari,  Minetare,  etc.  There  is  less  trouble  with  the  word  than 
with  the  applications  of  the  name  in  a  narrower  or  broader  sense.  It  is 
co-extensive  with  F.  Grosventres,  itself  equally  misleading.  The  proper  name 
of  the  Minnetarees  or  Grosventres  here  in  mention  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  is 
Hidatsa,  given  as  E-hat'-sar  by  Lewis  in  the  Statistical  View,  1807.     The  village. 


ti..m  «>,iuwwi 


w 


184 


ROSTER  OF  THE  CHIEFS:  CONTINUED. 


11:   ^^ 


:  ;lil 


' !  i  U 


live,  and  which  is  called  Metaharta,  we  made  a  first  chief, 
Oinpsehara  or  Black  Moccasin  ;  a  second  chief,  Ohhaw  or 
Little  Fox.  Other  distinguished  chiefs  of  this  village 
were  Mahnotah  or  Big  Thief,  a  man  whom  we  did  not  see, 
as  he  was  out  fighting  and  was  killed  soon  after;  and 
Mahserassa  or  Tail  of  the  Calumet-Bird.  In  the  fifth  vil- 
lage we  made  a  first  chief,  Eapanopa  or  Red  Shield ;  a 
second  chief,  Wankerassa  or  Two-Tailed  Calumet-Bird — 
both  young  chiefs.  Other  persons  of  distinction  are : 
Shahakohopinnee  or  Little  Wolf's  Medicine;  Ahrattana- 
mockshe  or  Wolf  Man  Chief,  who  is  now  at  war,  and  is  the 
son  of  the  old  chief  we  have  mentioned,  whose  name  is 
Caltahcota  or  Cherry  on  a  Bush. 

The  presents  intended  for  the  grand  chief  of  the  Minne- 
tarees,  who  was  not  at  the  council,  were  sent  to  him  by  the 

Metaharta  is  there  rendered  Me-te-har-tar.  Those  who  wish  to  learn  Hidatsan 
should  consult  the  valuable  vocabulary  of  Dr.  Washington  Matthews,  U.  S.  A. 
I  had  the  manuscript  of  my  esteemed  friend  officially  in  hand  for  some  time 
before  I  could  bring  it  out,  as  the  Government  Printing  Office  had  no  sorts  for 
the  many  orthoepic  marks  which  the  ingenious  author  used.  I  caused  a  special 
font  of  type  to  be  cast,  and  undertook  to  read  the  proofs.  I  have  understood 
that  the  result  was  satisfactory.  Besides  being  a  dictionary  and  grammar,  this 
book  is  replete  with  ethnographic  matter  of  entire  reliability,  which  furnishes 
the  key  to  all  that  Lewis  and  Clark  tell  us  of  the  tribes  so  long  and  so  singu- 
larly consociated  in  these  villages.  (U.  S.  Geol.  and  Geogr.  Surv.,  Misc.  Pub. 
No.  7,  Washington,  Government  Printing  Office,  1877.     8vo,  pp.  vi,  239.) 

The  census  in  the  View  is  2,500,  with  600  warriors.  "  They  claim  no  particu- 
lar country,  nor  do  they  assign  themselves  any  limits:  their  tradition  relates 
that  they  have  always  resided  at  their  present  villages.  In  their  customs, 
manners,  and  dispositions,  they  are  similar  to  the  Mandans  and  Ahwahhaways. 
The  scarcity  of  fuel  induces  them  to  reside,  during  the  cold  season,  in  large 
bands,  in  camps,  on  different  parts  of  the  Missouri,  as  high  up  that  river  as 
the  mouth  of  the  river  Yellow  Stone,  and  west  of  their  villages,  about  the 
Turtle  mountain.  .  .  These  people  have  also  suffered  considerably  by  the  small- 
pox ;  but  have  successfully  resisted  the  attacks  of  the  Sioux.  The  N.W. 
company  intend  to  form  an  establishment  in  the  course  of  next  sumn;er.  and 
autumn,  on  the  Missouri,  near  these  people,  which,  if  effected,  will  most  prob- 
ably prevent  their  removal  to  any  point  which  our  government  may  hereafter 
wish  them  to  reside  at."    (London  ed.  1807,  p.  21.) 

According  to  latest  returns,  there  are  522  Hidatsa  Indians  on  the  Fort 
Berthold  Reservation,  N.  D.,  where  Dr.  Matthews  studied  them  in  1S71-72, 
and  I  visited  them  in  1874.     The  Mandans  number  only  251, 


>     <l 


PRAIRIE   FIRE,  AND  A  TOUCHING  RELATION. 


185 


old  chief  Caltahcota ;  and  we  delivered  to  a  young  chief 
those  intended  for  the  chief  of  the  lower  village.  The 
council  was  concluded  by  a  shot  from  our  swivel ;  and  after 
our  firing  the  air-gun  for  their  amusement,  they  retired  to 
deliberate  on  the  answer  which  they  are  to  give  to-morrow. 

In  the  evening  the  prairie  took  fire,  either  by  accident 
or  design,  and  burned  with  great  fury,  the  whole  plain 
being  enveloped  in  flames.  So  rapid  was  its  progress  that 
a  man  and  a  woman  were  burnt  to  death  before  they  could 
reach  a  place  of  safety  ;  another  man  with  his  wife  and 
child  were  much  burnt,  and  several  other  persons  narrowly 
escaped  destruction.  Among  the  rest  a  boy  of  the  half- 
white  breed  escaped  unhurt  in  the  midst  of  the  flames ; 
his  safety  was  ascribed  to  the  great  medicine  spirit,  who 
had  preserved  him  on  account  of  his  being  white.  But  a 
much  more  natural  cause  was  the  presence  of  mind  of  his 
mother,  who,"  seeing  no  hopes  of  carrying  off  her  son,  threw 
him  on  the  ground  and,  covering  him  with  the  fresh  hide 
of  a  buiTalo,  escaped  herself  from  the  flames.  As  soon  as 
the  fire  had  passed,  she  returned  and  found  him  untouched, 
the  skin  having  prevented  the  flame  from  reaching  the 
grass  on  which  he  lay. 

{p.  122)  October  lotk.  We  were  this  morning  visited  by 
two  persons  from  the  lower  village,  one  Big  White,  the 
chief  of  the  village,  the  other  the  Chayenne  called  Big 
Man ;  they  had  been  hunting,  and  did  not  return  yesterday 
early  enough  to  attend  the  council.  At  their  request,  we 
repeated  part  of  our  speech  of  yesterday,  and  put  a  medal 
around  the  neck  of  the  chief.  Captain  Clark'"  took  a  peri- 
ogue  and  went  up  the  river  in  search  of  a  good  wintering 

'  "  Who  perhaps  had  more  fore  Sight  for  the  pertection  of  her  Son  and  iss 
[less]  for  herself  than  those  who  escaped  the  flame,"  Clark  C  72,  This  rela- 
tion has  been  prolific  of  Western  legends  of  the  Leather-stocking  type.  In  one 
version  it  is  an  old  trapper  who  emerges  from  under  the  green  hide,  and 
answers  a  remark  to  the  effect  that  he  must  have  perished  in  the  flames,  with 
"  Not  by  a  durned  sight  !  " 

"Gass,  p.  60,  wrongly  says  Lewis.  "  I  took  8  men  in  a  small  perogue  and 
went  up  the  river  as  fur  as  the  ist.  Island  about  7  miles,"  Clark  C  76. 


% 


m  ^1 


*>      \ 


!       '.I 


\       Mi 


186 


DISCOUUSE  OF  THE   MANDAN  CHIEF. 


place  ;  he  returned  after  going  seven  miles  to  the  lower 
point  of  an  island  on  the  north  side,  about  one  mile  in 
length  ;  he  found  the  banks  on  the  north  side-  high,  with 
coal  occasionally,  and  the  country  fine  on  all  sides-  Hut  the 
want  of  wood  and  the  scarcity  of  game  up  the  rivi  jced 

us  to  decide  on  fixing  ourselves  lower  down  di  .ig  the 
winter.  In  the  evening  our  men  danced  among  them- 
selves, to  the  great  amusement  of  the  Indians. 

October  list.  A  second  chief  arrived  this  morning  with 
an  invitation  from  the  grand  chief  of  the  Mandans  to  come 
to  his  village,  where  he  wished  to  present  some  corn  to  us 
and  to  speak  with  us.  Captain  Clark  walked  down  to  his 
village  ;  he  was  first  seated  with  great  ceremony  on  a  robe 
by  the  side  of  the  other  chief,  who  then  threw  over  his 
shoulders  another  robe  handsomely  ornamented.  The  pipe 
was  then  smoked  with  several  of  the  old  men  who  were 
seated  around  the  chief.  After  some  time  he  began  his 
discourse  by  observing  that  he  Relieved  what  we  had  told 
him,  and  that  they  should  soon  enjoy  peace,  wh'  would 
gratify  him  as  well  as  his  people,  because  they  then 

hunt  without  fear  of  being  attacked,  the  womc.  might 
work  in  the  fields  without  looking  every  moment  for  the 
enemy,  and  at  night  put  ofT  their  moccasins — a  phrase  by 
which  is  conveyed  the  idea  of  security,  when  the  women 
could  undress  at  night  without  fear  of  attack.  As  to  the 
Ricaias  (he  continued),  in  order  to  show  you  that  we  wish 
peace  with  all  men,  that  chief  (pointing  to  his  second  chief) 
will  go  with  some  warriors  back  to  the  Ricaras  with  their 
chief  now  here,  and  smoke  with  that  {p.  I2j{)  nation.  When 
we  heard  of  your  coming,  all  nations  around  returned  from 
their  hunting  to  see  you,  in  hopes  of  receiving  large  pres- 
ents ;  all  are  disappointed  and  some  discontented;  for 
his  part  he  was  not  much  so,  though  his  village  was.  He 
added  that  he  would  go  and  see  his  great  father  the  Presi- 
dent. Two  of  the  steel  traps  stolen  from  the  Frenchmen 
were  then  laid  before  Captain  Clark,  and  the  women 
brought  about  twelve  bushels  of  corn.     After   the  chief 


DIPLOMATIC   CORRESPONDENCE. 


187 


had  finished,  Captain  Clark  made  an  answer  to  the  speech, 
and  then  returned  to  the  boat,  where  lie  found  the  chief 
of  the  third  village  and  Kagohami  (Little  Raven),  who 
smoked  and  talked  about  an  hour.  After  they  left  the 
boat,  the  grand  chief  of  the  Mandans  came,  dressed  in 
the  clothes  we  had  given  him,  with  his  two  children, 
and  begged  to  see  the  men  dance,  in  which  they  willingly 
gratified  him. 

Thursday,  November  \st.  Mr.  [Hugh]  M'Cracken,  the 
trader  whom  we  found  here,  set  out  to-day  on  his  return 
to  the  British  fort  and  factory  on  the  Assiniboin  river, 
about  150  Hiiles  from  this  place.     He  took  a  letter"  from 

"  Here  is  this  letter,  which  I  happened  to  find  in  searching  old  magazines  and 
newspaper  iiles  for  the  purpose.  The  original  passed  into  tiie  possession  of 
Roderic  McKenzie  of  Assiniboin,  who  furnished  a  copy  to  Jason  Chamberlain, 
of  the  University  of  Vermont,  Burlington,  who  wrote,  Feb.  ijth,  1813,  a  letter 
to  the  editor  of  the  "  Portfolio,"  a  magazine  published  in  Philadelphia  in  those 
years,  inclosing  it  for  publication.  It  is  printed  on  pp.  448,  449  of  Vol.  VII., 
No,  5,  of  this  periodical,  May,  1813 — certainly  not  in  the  exact  words  of  the 
original,  but  no  doubt  with  substantial  accuracy.  It  is  very  interesting,  as 
being  signed  by  both  the  great  captains,  and  as  a  specimen  of  what  iliey  could 
do  as  diplomats : 

Upper  Mandane  Village,  Oct.  31,  1804. 
To  Charles  Chabi.    i.er,  Esq.  o   the  N.  W.  Co. 

Siu,  On  our  arrival  at  this  Mandane  Village,  the  36th  instant,  we  met  with 
Mr.  Hugh  M'Crachen,  who  informed  us  that  he  was  in  some  measure  employed 
by  you  in  behalf  of  the  North  West  Company,  to  traffic  with  the  natives  of  this 
quarter  ;  the  return  of  the  man  to  your  paits  affords  us  the  means  of  making, 
thus  early,  the  present  communication  ;  the  contents  of  which  we  would  thank 
you  to  make  known,  as  early  as  possible,  to  those  engaged,  and  traders  imme- 
diately under  your  direction,  as  also,  if  convenient,  to  the  principal  representa- 
tives of  any  other  company  of  his  Britannic  Majesty's  subjects,  who  may  reside 
or  trade  in  this  quarter. 

We  have  been  commissioned  and  sent  by  the  government  of  the  United  States 
for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the  river  Missouri,  and  the  western  parts  of  the 
continent  of  North  America,  with  .1  view  to  the  promotion  of  general  science. 
Your  government  have  been  advised  of  the  voyage  and  its  objects,  as  the 
enclosed  copy  of  a  passport,  granted  by  Mr.  Edward  Thornton,  his  Britannic 
Majesty's  charge  d'affaires  to  the  United  States,  will  evidence. 

The  cold  season  having  now  nearly  arrived,  we  have  determined  to  fortify 
ourselves,  and  remain  the  ensuing  winter,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  this  place. 
During  our  residence  here,  or  future  progress  on  our  voyage,  we  calculate  that 


i 


■'  (( 


'if 


III 


i88 


PROSPECT  OF  PEACE  WITH    THE   ARIKARAS. 


Captain[s]  Lewis  [and  Clark]  to  [Charles  Chaboillez  of] 
the  Northwest  Company,  inclosing  a  copy  of  the  passport 
granted  by  [Edward  Thornton]  the  British  minister  in  the 
United  States. 

At  ten  o'clock  the  chiefs  of  the  lower  village  arrived ; 
they  requested  that  we  would  call  at  their  village  for 
some  corn  ;  [they  said]  that  they  were  willing  to  make 
peace  with  the  Picaras;  that  they  had  never  provoked  the 
war  between  them,  but  as  the  Ricaras  had  killed  some  of 
their  chiefs  they  had  retaliated  on  them  ;  that  they  had 
killed  them  I'ke  birds,  till  they  were  tired  of  killing  them  ; 
so  that  they  would  send  a  chief  and  some  warriors  to  smoke 
with  them.  In  the  evening  we  dropped  down  to  the  lower 
village,  where  Captain  Lewis  went  on  shore,  and  Captain 
Clark  proceeded  to  a  point  of  wood  on  the  north  side. 

Noveuibcr  2d.  He  [Captain  Lewis  with  Sergeant  Gass 
and  some  of  the  men]  therefore  went  up  to  the  village, 
where  1 1  bushels  of  corn  were  presented  to  him.     In  the 

the  injunctions  contained  in  the  p.-tssport  before  mentioned  will,  with  respect  to 
ourselves,  govern  the  conduct  of  such  of  his  Brit.innic  M.ijesty's  subjects  .is  iiiay 
be  within  communicative  reach  of  us.  As  individuals,  we  feel  every  disposition 
to  cultivate  the  friendship  of  all  well  disposed  persons ;  and  all  that  we  have  at 
this  moment  to  ask  of  them,  is  a  mutual  exchange  of  good  offices.  We  shall,  at 
all  times,  extend  our  protection  as  well  to  Hritish  subjects  as  American  citizens, 
who  may  visit  the  Indians  of  our  neighbourhood,  provided  they  are  well-dis- 
posed ;  this  we  are  disposed  to  do,  as  well  from  the  pleasure  we  feel  in  becom- 
ing serviceable  to  good  men,  .is  from  a  conviction  that  it  is  consonant  with  the 
liberal  policy  of  our  government,  not  only  lo  admit  within  her  territory  the  free 
egress  and  regress  of  all  citizens  and  subjects  of  foreign  powers  with  which  she 
is  in  amity,  but  also  to  extend  to  them  her  protection,  while  within  the  limits  of 
her  jirisdiction. 

If,  sir,  in  the  course  of  the  winter,  you  have  it  in  your  power  to  furnish  us 
with  any  hints  in  rel.-jtion  to  the  geography  of  the  country,  its  productions, 
cither  mineral,  animal,  or  vegetable,  or  any  other  information  which  you  might 
conceive  of  utility  to  mankind,  or  which  might  be  serviceable  to  us  in  the  pros- 
ecution of  our  voy.age,  we  should  feel  ourselves  extremely  obliged  by  your  fur- 
nishing us  with  it. 

We  are,  with  much  respect. 

Your  ob't.  scrv'ts. 

Mi-.KlWKTiiER  I.F.wis,  Capt.  1st  U.  S.  K[egt.].  Inf. 

Wii.i.iAM  Clark,  Capt.  \ii\.  It.  U.  S.  Artillerists.] 


[Signed] 


i    i 


.^;^ 


■>»HH»'*- 


n 


RUII.DINC.   OF   FORT   MANDAN   nEOUN. 


189 


meantime  Captain  Clark  went  down  with  the  boats  three 
miles,  and  having  found  a  good  position  where  there 
(j>.  12^)  was  plenty  of  timber,  camped  and  began  to  fell 
trees  to  build  our  huts.  Our  Ricara  chief  set  out  with  one 
Mandan  chief  and  several  Minnetaree  and  Mandan  war- 
riors. The  wind  was  from  the  southeast,  and  the  weather 
being  fine  a  crowd  of  Indians  came  down  to  visit  us, 

November  id.  We  now  began  the  building  of  our  cabins," 
and  the  Frenchmen  who  are  to  return  to  St.  Louis  are 
building  a  periogue  for  the  purpose.  We  sent  six  men  in  a 
periogue  to  hunt  [30  or  40  miles]  down  the  river.  We  were 
also  fortunate  enough  to  engage  in  our  service  a  Cana- 
dian Frenchman  [Lepage],  who  had  been  with  the  Chayenne 
Indians  on  the  Black  mountains,  and  last  summer  descended 
thence  by  the  Little  Missouri.  Mr.  Jessaumc,  our  inter- 
preter, also  came  down  with  his  squaw  and  children  to  live 
at  our  camp.  In  the  evening  we  received  a  visit  from 
Kagohami  or  Little  Raven,  whose  wife  accompanied  him, 
bringing  about  60  [pounds']  weight  of  dried  meat,  a  robe, 
and  a  pot  of  meal.  We  gave  him  in  return  a  piece  of 
tobacco,  to  his  wife  an  ax  and  a  few  small  articles,  and 
both  of  them  spent  the  night  at  our  camp.  Two  beavers 
were  caught  in  traps  this  morning. 

November  ^th."     Wc  continued  our  labors.     The  timber 


li 


I    ' 


''One  of  Gass'  comical  pictures  shows  this,  .ind  he  describes  the  structure 
as  follows  :  "  The  huts  were  in  two  rows,  containing  four  rooms  each,  and  joined 
atone  end  forming  an  angle.  When  raised  about  7  feet  high  a  floor  of  puncheons 
or  split  plank  were  [sic]  laid,  and  covered  with  gr.-iss  and  clay ;  which  made  a 
warm  loft.  The  upper  part  projected  a  foot  over  and  the  roofs  were  made 
shcd-f.ishion,  rising  from  the  inner  side,  and  making  the  outer  wall  about  l8 
feet  high.  The  part  not  enclosed  by  the  huts  we  intend  to  picket.  In  the 
angle  formed  by  the  two  rows  of  huts  we  built  two  rooms,  for  holding  our  pro- 
visions and  stores."  (Carey's  Phila.  ed.  1811,  p.  6i>— there  are  no  illustrations 
in  the  orig.  cd.  I'ittsburg,  1807.) 

'■'  Clark  C  86,  this  date,  has  the  first  mention  I  have  found  of  the  individual 
who  will  figure  to  the  end  of  the  narrative  as  Chaboneau.  "  A  Mr.  Chaubonic, 
interpreter  for  the  dross  Ventre,"  interlined  "Chaboneau  "  in  red  ink.  In  the 
codices  he  has  .is  many  .-ilLises  as  perhaps  any  other  person,  place,  or  tribe  in  the 
whole  history.     He  is  usually  Cliabono  or  Shabono.     Lewis'  autograph  muster- 


i 


/  il 


(r   Ji 


190 


ANTELOPE  HUNT — AURORA  BOREALIS. 


which  we  employ  is  large  and  heavy,  and  chiefly  consists 
of  Cottonwood  and  elm,  with  some  ash  of  an  inferior  size. 
Great  numbers  of  the  Indians  passed  our  camp  on  their 
hunting  excursions.  The  day  was  clear  and  pleasant,  but 
last  night  was  very  cold,  and  there  was  a  white  frost. 

November  ^th.  The  Indians  are  all  out  on  their  hunting 
parties.  A  camp  of  Mandans  caught  within  two  days  100 
goats  a  short  distance  below  us.  Their  mode  of  hunting 
them  is  to  form  a  large  strong  pen  or  fold,  from  which  a 
fence  made  of  bushes  gradually  widens  on  each  side.  The 
animals  are  surrounded  by  the  hunters  and  gently  driven 
toward  this  pen,  in  which  they  imperceptibly  find  them- 
selves inclosed,  and  are  then  at  the  mercy  of  the  hunters. 
The  weather  is  cloudy  and  the  wind  moderate  from  the 
northwest.  Late  at  night  we  were  awaked  by  the  sergeant 
on  {p.  I2j)  guard  to  see  the  beautiful  phenomenon  called 
the  Northern  Light.  Along  the  northern  sky  was  a  large 
space  occupied  by  a  light  of  a  pale  but  brilliant  white 
color  which,  rising  from  the  horizon,  extended  itself  to 
nearly  20°  above  it.  After  glittering  for  some  time 
its   colors   would   be   overcast   and  almost   obscured,  but 

roll,  Washington,  Jan.  15th,  1807,  returns  him  officially  as  Touisant  [Toussaint] 
Charbono,  with  the  remark  :  "A  man  of  no  peculiar  merit,  was  usefull  as  an 
interpreter  only,  in  which  capacity  he  discharged  his  duties  with  good  faith 
from  the  moment  of  our  departure  from  the  mandans  on  the  7th  <  '  April  1805 
until  cur  return  to  that  place  in  August  last  and  received  as  a  compensation 
25  dollars  pr.  month  while  in  service."  He  seems  to  have  been  good-natured, 
and  meant  well,  no  doubt  ;  but  in  the  light  of  the  narrative  he  appears  to  have 
been  a  poor  specimen,  consisting,  chiefly,  of  a  tongue  to  wag  in  a  mouth  to 
(ill  ;  and  had  he  possessed  the  comprehensive  saintliness  of  his  baptismal 
name,  he  would  have  been  a  minus  function  still  in  cornparison  witli  his  wife 
Sacajawea,  the  wonderful  "  Llird-woman,"  who  contributed  a  full  man's  share  to 
the  success  of  the  Expedition,  besides  taking  care  of  her  baby. 

"  We  had  on  board  [1811]  a  Frenchman  named  Charbonet,  with  his  wife,  an 
Indian  woman  of  the  Snake  nation,  both  of  whom  had  accompanied  Lewis  and 
Clark  to  the  Pacific,  and  were  of  great  service.  The  woman,  a  good  creature, 
of  a  mild  and  gentle  disposition,  greatly  attached  to  the  whites,  whose  manners 
and  dress  she  tries  to  imitate  ;  but  she  had  become  sickly,  and  longed  to  revisit 
her  native  country  ;  her  husband  also,  who  had  spent  many  years  amongst  the 
Indians,  was  become  weary  of  a  civilized  life."  Brackenridge's  Journal,  1814, 
p.  202. 


i;'\ 


m 


MR.   GRAVELINES— DAKOTAN   ERMINE. 


191 


I   I 


again  it  would  burst  out  with  renewed  beauty ;  the  uni- 
form color  was  pale  light,  but  its  shapes  were  various  and 
fantastic.  At  times  the  sky  was  lined  with  light-colored 
streaks  rising  perpendicularly  from  the  horizon  and  gradu- 
ally expanding;  into  a  body  of  light  in  which  we  could  trace 
the  floating  columns  sometimes  advancing,  sometimes 
retreating,  and  shaping  into  infinite  forms  the  space  in 
which  they  moved.  It  all  faded  away  before  the  morning. 
At  daylight, 

November  6th,  the  clouds  to  the  north  were  darkening  ; 
the  wind  rose  high  from  the  northwest  at  eight  o'clock, 
and  continued  cold  during  the  day.  Mr.  [Joseph]  Grave- 
lines,  and  four  others  [Paul  Prcmor?  one  Laguness?  and 
two  French  youths]  who  came  with  us,  returned  to  the 
Ricaras  in  a  small  periogue.  We  gave  him  directions  to 
accompany  some  of  the  Ricara  chiefs  to  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment in  the  spring. 

November  "jth.  The  day  was  temperate,  but  cloudy  and 
foggy,  and  we  were  enabled  to  go  on  with  our  work  with 
much  expedition. 

November  ^th.  The  morning  again  cloudy.  Our  huts 
advance  very  well,  and  we  are  visited  by  numbers  of  Indians 
who  come  to  let  their  horses  graze  near  us.  In  the  day  the 
horses  are  let  loose  in  quest  of  grass  ;  in  the  night  they  are 
collected  and  receive  an  armful  of  small  boughs  of  the 
Cottonwood,  which,  being  very  juicy,  soft,  and  brittle,  form 
nutritious  and  agreeable  food.  The  frost  this  morning 
was  very  severe,  the  weather  during  the  day  cloudy,  and 
the  wind  from  the  northwest.  We  procured  from  an 
Indian  a  weasel,'*  perfectly  white  except  tlie  extremity  of 
the   tail,  which  was  black.     Great  numbers  of  wild  geese 

'*  This  is  the  Putorius  longicauda,  a  species  of  stoat  or  ermine,  common  in 
the  Missouri  region,  in  winter  of  the  color  said,  in  summer  brown  and  yellow- 
ish. I  have  seen  specimens  taken  near  this  very  locality,  and  have  collected 
others  in  North  Dakota  and  Montana.  It  was  new  to  science  in  1804.  and 
probably  not  noticed  again  till  1820,  as  by  Sir  John  Richardson,  whose  remark 
in  Fn.  B.-Am.,  I.  p.  47,  caused  Prince  C.  L.  Bonaparte  to  name  a  Mustela 
longicauda.     The  late  Prof.  S.  F.  Baird  was  the  first  to  certainly  recognize  the 


192 


BIG  WHITE,  AND   BLACK  CAT. 


i 


I    y- 


[Ber»tc/a  canadensis]  are  passing  to  the  south,  but  their 
flight  is  too  high  for  us  to  procure  any  of  them." 

(/.  126)  November  lot/i.  We  had  again  a  raw  day  with 
a  northwest  wind,  but  rose  early  in  hopes  of  finishing  our 
works  before  the  extreme  cold  begins.  A  chief  who  is  a 
half  Pawnee  came  to  us  and  brought  a  present  of  half 
a  buffalo,  in  return  for  which  we  gave  him  some  small 
presents  and  a  few  articles  for  his  wife  and  son.  He  then 
crossed  the  river  in  a  buffalo-skin  canoe  ;  his  wife  took  the 
boat  on  her  back  and  carried  it  to  the  village,  three  miles 
off.  Large  flocks  of  geese  and  brant,  and  also  a  few  ducks, 
are  passing  toward  the  south. 

November  wth.  The  weather  is  cold.  We  received  the 
visit  of  two  squaws  [Sacajawea  and  another],  prisoners  from 
the  Rock  [Rocky]  mountains,  purchased  by  Chaboneau. 
The  Mandans  at  this  time  are  out  hunting  the  buffalo. 

November  12th.  The  last  night  has  been  cold,  and  this 
morning  we  had  a  very  hard  frost ;  the  wind  is  changeable 
during  the  day,  and  some  ice  appears  on  the  edges  of  the 
rivers ;  swans  are  passing  to  the  south.  Big  White  came 
down  to  us,  having  packed  on  the  back  of  his  squaw  about 
100  pounds  of  very  fine  meat,  for  which  we  gave  him  as 
well  as  the  squaw  some  presents,  particularly  an  ax  to  the 
woman,  with  which  she  was  very  much  pleased. 

November  i^t/i.  We  this  morning  unloaded  the  boat, 
and  stowed  away  the  contents  in  a  storehouse  which  we 
have  built.  At  half  past  ten  ice  began  to  float  down  the 
river  for  the  first  time.  In  the  course  of  the  morning  we 
were  visited  by  Black  Cat,  Poscapsahe,  who  brought  an 
Assiniboin  chief  and  seven  warriors  to  see  us.  This  man, 
whose  name  is  Chechawk,"  is  a  chief  of  one  of  three  bands 

species.  See  his  Mamm.  N.  A.,  1857,  p.  169,  and  my  Fur-Bearing  Animals, 
1877,  pp.  137-142. 

"  Clark  C  90  is  a  page  for  Nov.  9th — needless  to  cite,  however,  as  Biddle  has 
worked  the  substance  of  it  into  his  text  of  other  dates. 

'•"Che  Chank,"  plainly,  Clark  C  95,  with  Lagree(Legree)  noted  as  a  French 
name  of  him.  He 'urns  up  later  as  Shishankor  Shishonk.  Clark  tagged  him 
neatly  by  givinj;  him  "  a  gold  cord,  with  a  view  to  know  him  again,"  ifiiJ. 


I 


ASSINIBOINS  AND   KNISTENEAUX. 


193 


of  Assiniboins  who  wander  over  the  plains  between  the 
Missouri  and  Assiniboin  [river]  during  the  summer,  in  the 
winter  carry  the  spoils  of  their  hunting  to  the  traders  on 
the  Assiniboin  river,  and  occasionally  come  to  this  place. 
The  whole  three  bands  consist  of  about  800  men.  We 
gave  him  a  twist  of  tobacco  to  smoke  with  his  people,  and 
a  gold  cord  for  himself.  The  Sioux  also  asked  for  whisky, 
which  we  refused  to  give  them.  It  snowed  all  day  and  the 
air  was  very  cold. 

(A  I2y)  November  i^th.  The  river  rose  last  night  half 
an  inch,  and  is  now  filled  with  floating  ice.  This  morning 
was  cloudy  with  some  snow.  About  70  lodges  of  Assini- 
boins "  and  some  Knistenaux  [orCrees]  are  at  the  Mandan 
village;  and  this  being  the  day  of  adoption,  and  exchange 
of  property  between  them  all,  it  is  accompanied  by  a  dance, 
which  prevents  our  seeing  more  than  two  Indians  to-day' 
These  Knistenaux -are  a  band  of  Chippeways,  whose  lan- 

"  The  Assiniboins  are  a  number  of  tribes  of  Indians  of  Siouan  stock,  to  be 
care  uliy  distinguished  from  the  Crees  or  other  members  of  the  Aigonquian 
family  with  which  they  were  associated.     They  have  sometimes  been  called 
btone  Sioux,  as   a   translation   of  the  Chippeway  name  Assinniboan.      The 
Dakotan  name  is  Hohe.     The  band  spoken  of  in  the  text  were  probably  of  the 
tribe  on  the  Mouse  or  Souris  river,  the  main  southern  branch  of  the  Assiniboin 
since  they  came  with  the  Knisteneaux.     The  three  bands  or  tribes  of  Assini- 
boins  mentioned    in    the    preceding   paragraph    are  noted  by   Lewis  in  the 
Statistical  View  as  :    i.  Ma-ne-to'-pa,   or   Gens  de    Canoe,  with  100  lodge 
200  warriors,  and  lotal  of  750  people,  living  on  the  Mouse  river.     (These  give 
name  to  the  province  of    Manitoba.)     2.  O-see'-gah  or   Gens  de  Tee  (mis- 
print  for  Feuilles.     See  text,  p.  217,  near  end  of  this  chapter),  100  lodges   250 
warriors,  850  total,  from  about  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Missouri  over  to  the 
Assiniboin.     3.   Mah-to,.pa.nd.to  or  Gens  du  Grand   Diable,  200  lodges  450 
warriors,  1,600  total,  on  the  Missouri  about  White-earth  river  and  over  to  the 
Assiniboin.      Nacota   is  given    .s  an  alternative  name  with  Assiniboin  •  the 
three  bands  are  said  to  speak  the  Sioux  language,  with  some   few  peculiar 
words,  and  to  act  entirely  independently  of  one  another,  though  they  recognize 
their  national  affinity  and  never  war  with  one  another. 

The  greater  number  of  Assiniboins  are  now  in  British  America.  Those 
officially  rated  as  such  in  the  United  States  are.  accordincj  to  the  latest  returns 
Q52at  Port  Belknap  Reservation,  Mont.,  719  at  Fort  Peck  Reservation,  Mont  ' 
and  2  at  Devil's  Lake  Agency,  N,  D. 

'"  Few  names  of  Indians  have  been  used  with  more  latitude  or  lack  of  precision 


•13 


f 

1 

i 

1 

1 

il'' 

'h\ 

, 

I  ' 


[. 


i:l 


■i 


,i 


I  I   ^ 


194 


WINTER  AT  HAND— THE  MEN  HOUSED. 


guage  they  speak ;  they  live  on  the  Assiniboin  and  Sas- 
kashawan  '"  rivers,  and  are  about  240  men.  We  sent  a  man 
[Drewyer]  down  on  horseback  to  see  what  had  become 
of  our  hunters,  and  as  we  apprehend  a  failure  of  provisions 
wo  have  recourse  to  our  pork  this  evening.  Two  French- 
men who  had  been  below  returned  with  20  beaver  which 
they  had  caught  in  traps. 

November  i^th.  The  morning  again  cloudy,  and  the  ice 
running  thicker  than  yesterday;  the  wind  variable.  The 
man  came  back  with  the  information  that  our  hunters  wens 
about  30  miles  below,  and  we  immediately  sent  an  order  to 
them  to  make  their  way  through  the  floating  ice;  to  assist 
them  in  which  we  sent  some  tin  for  the  bow  of  the  peri- 
ogue,  and  a  tow-rope.  The  ceremony  of  yesterday  seemed 
to  continue  still,  for  we  were  not  visited  by  a  single  Indian. 
The  swan  are  still  passing  to  the  south. 

November  i6tk.  We  had  a  very  hard  white  frost  this 
morning;  the  trees  are  all  covered  with  ice;  the  weather  is 
cloudy.  The  men  this  day  moved  into  the  huts,  although 
they  are  not  finished.  In  the  evening  some  horses  were 
sent  down  to  the  woods  near  us,  in  order  to  prevent  their 
being  stolen  by  the  Assiniboins,  with  whom  some  diffi- 
culty is  now  apprehended.  An  Indian  came  down  with 
four  buffalo-robes  and  some  corn,  which  he  offered  for  a 
pistol,  but  was  refused. 

than  Knisteneaux  or  "Cree,"  and  "  Chippeway."  The  laUer  is  the  same  word 
as  Ojibwa,  and  is  spelled  in  many  other  ways.  The  Crees  proper  are  British 
American  Indians,  supposed  to  now  number  about  17,000.  It  is  impossible  to 
say  exactly  what  band  of  Indians  is  mentioned  in  the  text,  further  than  that 
they  were  "Crees."  But  they  were  probably  not  the  "  Chippeways "  or 
"  Ojibaw.iys"  of  Lewis'  Statistical  View,  London  ed.  1807,  p.  28,  nor  yet  the 
Algonquins  ("Chippeways  "),  ibid.  p.  31  ;  but  the  Indians  there  given,  p.  33, 
as  "  Chrislenoes  or  Knistenaus,"  with  "  Crees,"  as  the  French  nickname.  These 
are  said  there  to  speak  the  language  of  the  "  Chippeways,  with  a  different  accent, 
and  many  words  peculiar  to  themselves."  They  are  described  as  a  wandering 
nation,  though  locited  on  the  Assiniboin  and  thence  toward  the  Saskashawan, 
which  agrees  with  the  text  above.  They  are  credited  with  150  lodges,  300 
warriors,  and  a  total  population  of  1,000. 

"  Twenty  or  more  spellings  of  this  could  easily  be  adduced.  Clark  C  97  has 
Assaskasshawan.     One  of  our  commonest  renderings  is  Saskatchewan. 


ii^  Im 


m-i 


j« 


INTERTRIBAL  RELATIONS. 


»95 


November  \jth.  Last  night  was  very  cold,  and  the  ice  in 
the  river  to-day  is  thicker  than  hitherto.  We  are  totally 
occupied  with  our  huts,  but  received  visits  from  several 
Indians. 

(J>.  128)  November  18///.     To-day  we  had  a  cold,  windy 
morning.     Black  Cat  came  to  see  us,  and  occupied  us  for  a 
long  time  with  questions  on  the  usages  of  our  country. 
He  mentioned  that  a  council  had  been  held  yesterday  to 
deliberate  on  the  state  of  their  affairs.     It  seems  that  not 
long  ago  a  party  of  Sioux  fell  in  with  some  horses  belong- 
ing to  the  Minnetarees,  and  carried  them  off  ;  but  in  their 
flight  they  were  met  by  some  Assiniboins,  who  killed  the 
Sioux  and  kept  the  horses.     A  Frenchman  too,  who  had 
lived  many  years  among  the  Mandans,  was  lately  killed  on 
his  route  to  the  British   factory  on  the  Assiniboin.     Some 
smaller  dififerences  also  existed  between  the  two  nations  ; 
all  of  which  being  discussed,  the  council  decided  that  they 
would  not  resent  the  recent  insults  from  the  Assiniboins 
and  Knistenaux,  until  they  had  seen  whether  we  had  de- 
ceived them  or  not  in  our  promises  of  furnishing  them  with 
arms  and  ammunition.     They  had  been  disappointed  in 
their  hopes  of  receiving  them  from  Mr.  Evans,  and  were 
afraid  that  we  too,  like  him,  might  tell  them  what  was 
not  true.     We  advised  them  to  continue  at  peace ;  that 
supplies  of  every  kind  would  no  doubt  arrive  for  them,  but 
that  time  was  necessary  to  organize  the  trade.     The  fact  is 
that  the  Assiniboins  treat  the  Mandans  as  the  Sioux  do 
the  Ricaras ;  by  their  vicinity  to  the  British  they  get  all 
the  supplies,  which  they  withhold  or  give  at  pleasure  to 
the  remoter  Indians.     The  consequence  is  that,  however 
badly  treated,  the  Mandans  ar.d  Ricaras  are  very  slow  to 
retaliate,  lest  they  should  lose  their  trade  altogether. 

November  \gth.  The  ice  continues  to  float  in  the  river, 
the  wind  is  high  from  the  northwest,  and  the  weather  cold! 
Our  hunters  arrived  from  their  excursion  below,  bringing  a 
very  fine  supply  of  32  deer,  11  elk,  and  5  bufTalo,"  all"  of 
which  was  hung  in  a  smokehouse. 

'"  Mistake  :  "  32  Deer,  12  Elk  &  a  liuffalow,"  Clark  C  100. 


t 


1  ^ 


1  I  if 


l: 


f  ( 


196 


FORT   MANDAN  COMPLETED. 


November  20th.  We  this  day  moved  into  our  huts, 
which  are  now  completed.  This  place,  which  we  call  Fort 
Mandan,  is  situated  in  a  point  of  low  ground,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Missouri,  covered  with  tall  and  heavy  cotton- 
wood.  The  (/.  I2g)  works  consist  of  two  rows  of  huts  or 
sheds,  forming  an  angle  where  they  join  each  other  ;  each 
row  containing  four  rooms,  of  14  feet  square  and  7  feet 
high,  with  plank  ceiling,  and  the  roof  slanting  so  as  to 
form  a  loft  above  the  rooms,  the  highest  part  of  which  is 
18  feet  from  the  ground  ;  the  backs  of  the  huts  form  a 
wall  of  that  height,  and  opposite  the  angle  the  place  of  the 
wall  is  supplied  by  picketing ;  in  the  area  are  two  rooms 
for  stores  and  provisions.  The  latitude  by  observation 
is  47"  21'  47",  and  the  computed  distance  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri  is  1,600  miles. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  several  Indians  came  down  to 
partake  of  our  fresh  meat ;  among  the  rest,  three  chiefs  of 
the  second  Mandan  village.  They  inform  us  that  the 
Sioux  on  the  Missouri  above  the  Chayenne  river  threaten 
to  attack  them  this  winter ;  that  these  Sioux  are  much 
irritated  at  the  Ricaras  for  having  made  peace  through  our 
means  with  the  Mandans,  and  have  lately  ill-treated  three 
Ricaras  who  carried  the  pipe  of  peace  to  them,  by  beating 
them  and  taking  away  their  horses.  We  gave  them  assur- 
ances that  we  would  protect  them  from  all  their  enemies. 

November  21st.  The  weather  was  this  day  fine,  the  river 
clear  of  ice  and  rising  a  little.  We  are  now  settled  in  our 
new  winter  habitation,  and  shall  wait  with  much  anxiety 
the  first  return  of  spring,  to  continue  our  journey. 

The  villages  near  which  we  are  established  are  five  in 
number,  and  are  the  residence  of  three  distinct  nations: 
the  Mandans,  the  Ahnahaways  [see  note,  p.  183],  and  the 
Minnetarees  [see  note,  p.  183].  The  history  of  the  Man- 
dans,  as  we  received  it  from  our  interpreters  and  from  the 
chiefs  themselves,  and  as  it  is  attested  by  existing  monu- 
ments, illustrates  more  than  that  of  any  other  nation  the 
unsteady    movements   and  the   tottering  fortunes  of  the 


41 


n 


«t«ii»i 


1' 


HISTORY  OF  THE   MA'MDANS. 


197 


American  Indians.  Within  the  recollection  of  living  wit- 
nesses, the  Mandans  were  settled  40  years  ago  in  nine  vil- 
lages, the  ruins  of  which  we  passed  about  80  miles  (/>.  /jo) 
below,  seven  on  the  west  and  two  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Missouri,  These  two,  finding  themselves  wasting  away 
before  the  smallpox  and  the  Sioux,  united  into  one  village, 
and  moved  up  the  river  opposite  the  Ricaras.  The  same 
causes  reduced  the  remaining  seven  to  five  villages,  till  at 
length  they  emigrated  in  a  body  to  the  Ricara  nation, 
where  they  formed  themselves  into  two  villages,  and  joined 
those  of  their  countrymen  who  had  gone  before  them.  In 
their  new  residence  they  were  still  insecure,  and  at  length  the 
three  villages  ascended  the  Missouri  to  their  present  posi- 
tion. The  two  who  had  emigrated  together  settled  in  the 
two  villages  on  the  northwest  side  of  the  Missouri,  while 
the  single  village  took  a  position  on  the  southeast  side.  In 
this  situation  they  were  found  by  those  who  visited  them 
in  1796  [r^a^  David  Thompson,  Dec.  29th,  1797-Jan.  loth, 
1798]  ;  since  which  the  two  villages  have  united  into  one. 
They  are  now  two  villages,  one  on  the  southeast  of  the 
Missouri,  the  other  on  the  opposite  side,  at  the  distance  of 
three  miles  across.  The  first,  in  an  open  plain,  contains 
about  40  or  50  lodges,  built  in  the  same  way  as  tho^;-  of  the 
Ricaras  ;  the  second,  the  same  number ;  and  both  may 
raise  [/.  e.,  can  muster]  about  350  men. 

On  the  same  side  of  the  river,  and  at  a  distance  of  four 
miles  from  the  lower  Mandan  village,  is  another  called  Ma- 
haha  [see  note  on  p.  183].  It  is  situated  on  a  high  plain 
at  the  mouth  of  Knife  river,  and  is  the  residence  of  the 
Ahnahaways.  This  nation,  whose  name  indicates  that 
they  were  "  people  whose  village  is  on  a  hill,"  formerly 
resided  on  the  Missouri,  about  30  miles  below  where  they 
now  live.  The  Assiniboins  and  Sioux  forced  them  to  a 
spot  five  miles  higher,  where  the  greatest  part  of  them  were 
put  to  death,  and  the  rest  emigrated  to  their  present 
situation,  in  order  to  obtain  an  asylum  near  the  Minne- 
tarees.     They  are  called  by  the   French  Soulier   Noir  or 


ii  '5 

P' 

'  1 

1, 

i 

1,  . 

1 

1 

;  i;;. 


198 


MINNETAREE  AND  CROW   INDIANS. 


[Black]  Shoe  Indians;"  by  the  Mandans,  Wattasoons ;" 
and  their  whole  force  is  about  50  men. 

(/.  iji)  On  the  south  side  of  the  same  Knife  river,  half  a 
mile  above  the  Mahaha  [village]  and  in  the  same  open  plain 
with  it,  is  a  village  of  Minnetarees  surnamed  Metaharta, 
who  are  about  150  men  in  number.  On  the  opposite  side 
of  Knife  river,  and  one  and  a  half  miles  above  this  village, 
is  a  second  of  Minnetarees,  who  may  be  considered  as  the 
proper  Minnetaree  nation.  It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful 
low  plain,  and  contains  450  warriors. 

The  accounts  which  we  received  of  the  Minnetarees 
were  contradictory.  The  Mandans  say  that  this  people 
came  out  of  the  water  to  the  east  and  settled  near  them 
in  their  former  establishment  in  nine  villages;  that  they 
were  very  numerous,  and  fixed  themselves  in  one  village 
on  the  southern  side  of  the  Missouri.  A  quarrel  about  a 
buffalo  divided  the  nation,  of  which  two  bands  went  into 
the  plains  and  were  known  by  the  name  of  Crow"  and 

"  The  French  name  is  given  as  "  Gensde  Soulier"  in  the  Statistical  View. 
See  note  ',  p.  183. 

""In  the  Arickaree  language,  the  Hidatsa  are  called  Witctsaan,"  Mat- 
thews, p.  36.  In  the  Clark  Codex  this  word  wavers  in  spelling,  as  usual.  Its 
translation  is  disputed.  The  Crow  name  of  the  Hidatsa  is  Amasi,  which  means 
the  dirt  lodges  in  which  they  lived.  The  Sioux  name  for  them  is  Ilewaktokto, 
of  questionable  meaning. 

"'The  Crows  are  one  of  the  principal  tribes  of  the  Siouan  family,  related 
nearest  to  the  Minnetarees  or  Hidatsans  (Grosventres).  Their  English  name  is 
rendered  from  the  French  Gens  des  Corbeaux.  According  to  the  latest  returns 
there  were  2,287  of  them  on  the  Crow  Reservation  in  Northern  Montana. 

In  his  Statistical  View  Lewis  calls  the  Crows  Kee'-kat-sa.  Their  primitive 
name  is  now  variously  rendered  Absaroke,  Aubsaroke,  Absaruque,  etc.  Lewis 
made  their  total  3,500,  with  qoo  warriors  and  350  lodges,  and  located  them  on 
the  Yellowstone,  about  the  mouth  of  the  Bighorn.  He  makes  their  language 
Minnetaree.  "  These  people,"  he  continues,  "  are  divided  into  four  bands,  called 
by  themselves  Ahah  ar-ro'-pir-no-pah,  Noo -ta-,  Pa-rees-car,  and  E-hart'-sar. 
They  .innually  visit  the  Mandans,  Minnetarees,  and  Ahwahhaways,  to  whom 
they  barter  horses,  mules,  leather  lodges,  and  many  articles  of  Indian  apparel, 
for  which  they  receive  in  return  g^ns,  ammunition,  axes,  kettles,  awls,  and 
other  European  manufactures.  When  they  return  to  their  country  they  are  in 
turn  visited  by  the  Paunch  and  Snake  Indi.ms,  to  whom  they  barter  most  of 
the  articles  they  have  obtained  from  the  nations  on  the  Missouri,  for  horses 


j;v 


MINNETAREE  AND   FALL  INDIANS. 


199 


Paunch"  Indians,  and  the  rest  moved  to  their  present 
establishment.  The  Minnetarees  proper  assert,  on  the  con- 
trary, that  they  grew  where  they  now  live  and  will  never 
emigrate  from  the  spot,  the  Great  Spirit  having  declared 
that  if  they  moved  they  would  all  die.  They  also  say  that 
the  Minnetarees  Mctaharta — that  is,  Minnetarees  of  the 
Willows,  whose  language  with  very  little  variation  is  their 
own,  came  many  years  ago  from  the  plains  and  settled 
near  them.  Perhaps  the  two  traditions  may  be  reconciled 
by  the  natural  presumption  that  these  Minnetarees  were 
the  tribes  known  to  the  Mandans  below,  and  that  they 
ascended  the  river  for  the  purpose  of  rejoining  the  Minne- 
tarees proper.  These  Minnetarees  are  part  of  the  great 
nation  called  Fall"  Indians, who  occupy  the  intermediate 

and  mules,  of  which  those  nations  [t.  e.,  Paunch  and  Snake]  h.ive  a  greater 
abundance  than  themselves.  They  also  obtain  of  the  Snake  Indians,  bridle- 
bits  and  blankets,  and  some  other  articles  which  those  Indians  purchase  from 
the  Spaniards.  The  bridle-bits  and  blankets  I  have  seen  in  the  possession  of 
the  Mandans  and  Minnetarees."    (London  ed.  1807,  p.  25.) 

"Lewis  in  his  Statistical  View  treats  these  "Paunch"  Indians  entirely 
apart  from  the  Grosventres.  He  gives  their  native  name  as  Al-la-k.i'-we-ah, 
with  French  nickname  "Gens  de  Panse,"  and  locates  them  along  the  Yellow- 
stone on  both  sides,  near  the  Rocky  mountains  and  heads  of  the  Bighorn  river, 
with  a  population  of  2,300,  including  800  warriors  and  300  lodges.  He  s-iys  they 
act  on  the  defensive  against  the  Sioux  and  Ricaras,  and  have  the  same  alliances 
as  the  Wetepahatoes,  excepting  their  wars  with  the  Ricara:.  "  They  are  said 
to  be  a  peaceable,  well  disposed  nation.  Their  country  is  a  variegated  one, 
consisting  of  mountains,  valleys,  plains,  and  wood-lands,  irregularly  interspersed. 
They  might  be  induced  to  visit  the  Missouri,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow  Stone 
river  ;  and  from  the  gr.at  abundance  of  valuable  furred  animals  which  their 
country,  as  well  as  that  of  the  Crow  Indians  produces,  their  trade  must  become 
extremely  valuable.  They  are  a  roving  people,  and  have  no  idea  of  exclusive 
right  to  the  soil."    (London  ed.  1807,  p.  :5.) 

"  This  is  a  vague  term,  due  or  at  least  traceable  to  the  trader  Edward  Umfre- 
ville,  who  was  on  the  Saskatchewan  in  1784-  87,  and  who  mentions  these 
Indians  as  living  about  the  falls  of  the  south  branch  of  that  river.  He  says 
(p.  197)  that  the  French  "  call  them  Grosventres  or  Hig-Bellies  ;  and  without  any 
reason,  as  they  are  as  comely  and  as  well  made  as  any  tribe  whatever,  and  are 
very  far  from  being  remarkable  for  their  corpulency."  On  which  Matthews, 
from  whom  I  borrow  this  quote,  remarks  (p.  33):  "  The  tribe  to  which  he 
refers  is  doubtless  that  which  is  now  known  as  the  Atsinas  or  Grosventres  of 
the  Prairie.     The  similarity  of  the  Canadian  misnomers  led  Captain  Lewis  in 


I 


.   i 


i 

I   P 

1 

1' 

1 

1 

;i 


II 


m 


y 


i '.  ^ 


jf 


i:f 


200        MINNETAREKS,  AUNAHAWAYS,  AND   MANDANS. 

country  between  the  Missouri  and  tlie  Saskaskawan,  and 
who  are  known  by  the  name  of  Minnetarccs  of  the  Mis- 
souri, and  Minnctarees  of  Fort  de  Prairie — that  is,  residing 
near  or  rather  frequenting  the  establishment  in  tiic  prairie 
on  tile  Saskaskawan  [Saskatchewan].  These  Minnetarees 
indeed  told  us  that  they  had  relations  on  the  Saskaskawan, 
whom  they  liad  never  known  till  they  met  them  in  war, 
(/>.  ijj)  and  having  engaged  in  the  night  were  astonished 
at  discovering  that  they  were  fighting  with  men  who  spoke 
their  own  language.  The  French  name  of  Grosventres,  or 
Bigbellies,  is  given  to  these  Minnetarees,  as  welt  as  to  all 
the  Fall  Indians. 

The  inhabitants  of  these  five  villages,  all  of  which  arc 
within  the  distance  of  six  miles,  live  in  harmony  with  one 
another.  The  Ahnahaways  understand  in  part  the  lan- 
guage of  the  Minnetarees.  The  dialect  of  the  Mandans  dif- 
fers  widely  from  both  ;  but  their  long  residence  together 
has  insensibly  blended  their  manners,  and  occasioned  some 
approximation  in  language,  particularly  as  to  objects  of 
daily  occurrence  and  obvious  to  the  senses. 

November  22d,  The  morning  was  fine,  and  the  day 
warm.     We  purchased  from  the  Mandans"  a  quantity  of 

1804,  to  speak  of  the  Minnet.irees  on  the  Missouri  '  as  part  of  the  great  nation 
called  Fall  Indians.'  Comparing  our  Hidatsa  words  with  their  synonymes  in 
Umfreville's  Fall  Vocabulary,  or  Dr.  Maydcn's  later  Atsin.i  Vocabulary,  we  can 
discover  no  affinity  between  the  Fall  and  Hidatsa  tongues."  It  is  necessary  for 
the  reader  to  bear  always  in  mind,  that  when  L  and  C.  speak  of  Minnetarees 
"  of  the  Prairie"  and  "of  the  Missouri,"  they  actually  designate  two  entirely 
different  tribes  of  Indians,  the  former  being  Atsinas  or  the  "Fall"  Indians, 
and  the  latter  being  the  Ilidatsas,  with  whom  they  are  now  wintering.  Their 
loose  use  of  "  (jros ventres "  is  exactly  parallel.  For  e^  "■  '  '  '  nd, 
Jan.  1st,  1805,  and  note  there. 

These  "Fall"  Indians   are  separately  treated   l>v 
View.     He  adopts  this  name  there,  and  ^  .le  A 

synonymous.     He  estimates  their  total  nun.  -.S'lo,  60  w 

260  lodges,  and  locates  them  "  on  the  head  o 
\sic\  river,  and  some  streams  supposed  to  be  bi . 
of  Milk  river  :  see  what  is  said  of  the  Minnet.irees,  note      p    183). 

"'  "  Dispatched  a  perogue  and  5  men  under  the  Deretlion  of  Sergeant  Pryor 


istkal 
>ar  as 

•r^  and 

south  fo-      .1  the  Sa^kshawan 

UK  hes  of  *   ,■  .Missouri  "  (perhaps 


'I      \  \ 


\v' 


A    DOMKSriC   DIIKICULTV. 


301 


corn  of  a  mixed  color,  which  they  dug  up  in  ears  from 
holes  made  near  the  front  of  their  lodges,  in  which  it  is 
buried  during  the  winter. 

This  morning  the  sentinel  informed  us  that  an  Indian 
was  about  to  kill  his  wife  near  the  fort.  VVc  went  down  to 
the  house  of  our  interpreter,  where  we  found  the  parties, 
and  after  forbidding  any  violence,  inquired  into  the  cause 
of  his  intending  to  commit  such  an  atrocity.  It  appeared 
that  some  days  ago  a  quarrel  had  taken  place  between  him 
and  his  wife,  in  consequence  of  which  she  had  taken  refuge 
in  the  house  where  the  two  squaws  of  our  interpreter  lived. 
Hy  running  away  she  forfeited  her  life,  which  might  have 
been  lawfully  taken  by  the  husband.  About  two  days  ago 
she  had  returned  to  the  village,  but  the  same  evening  came 
back  to  the  fort  much  beaten,  and  stabbed  in  three  places, 
and  the  husband  now  came  for  the  purpose  of  completing 
his  revenge."  He  observed  that  he  had  lent  her  to  one  of 
our  sergeants  for  a  night,  and  that  if  he  wanted  her  he 
would  give  her  to  him  altogether.  We  gave  him  a  few 
presents  and  tried  to  persuade  him  to  take  his  wife  home; 
the  grand  chief  too  happened  to  arrive  at  the  same 
moment,  and  reproached  him  with  his  violence  ;  till  at 
length  they  went  off  together,  but  by  no  means  in  a  state 
of  much  apparent  love. 

(A  UJ)  Novanber  z^d.  Again  we  had  a  fair  and  warm 
day,  with  the  wind  from  the  southeast.  The  river  is  now 
at  a  stand,  having  risen  four  inches  in  the  whole. 

November   24///.     The   wind   continued   from   the   same 

to  the  2cl  Village  for  100  bushels  of  Corn  in  ears  which  Mr.  Jessomme  let  us 
have — did  not  get  more  than  go  busliels,"  Clark  C  loa. 

"  On  his  wife,  not  on  Sergeant  Ordway.  "  We  derected  that  no  man  of  this 
party  have  any  intercourse  with  this  woman  under  the  penelty  of  punishment — 
he  the  Husband  observed  that  one  of  our  Serjeants  slept  with  his  wife  I'v:  if  he 
wanted  her  he  would  give  her  to  him,  I  derected  the  Sergeant  Odway  to  give 
the  man  some  articles,  at  which  time  I  told  the  Indian  I  believed  not  one  man 
of  the  party  had  touched  his  wife  except  the  one  he  had  given  the  use  of  her  for 
a  nite,  in  his  own  bed,  *  *  ♦  at  this  time  the  grand  chief  of  the  nation 
arrived  &  lecturd  him  and  they  both  went  off  dis[satisfied],"  Clark  C  103. 


"     »^    V 


202    VISITS  EXCHANGED— INCIVILITY  OF  HORNED  WEASEL. 


ill 


'  C 


4 


ill, 


t 


quarter,  and  the  weather  was  warm.  We  were  occupied  in 
finishing  our  huts  and  making  a  large  rope  of  elk-skin  to 
draw  our  boat  on  the  bank. 

Sunday,  November  zt^th.  The  weather  is  still  fine,  warm, 
and  pleasant,  and  the  river  falls  one  inch  and  a  half.  Cap- 
tain Lewis  went  on  an  excursion  to  the  village,  accom- 
panied by  eight  men.  A  Minnetaree  chief,  the  first  who 
has  visited  us,  came  down  to  the  fort.  His  name  was 
VVaukerassa,  but  as  both  the  interpreters  had  gone  with 
Captain  Lewis  we  were  obliged  to  confine  our  civilities  to 
some  presents,  with  which  he  was  much  pleased.  We  now 
completed  our  huts,  and  fortunately  too  ;  for  the  next  day, 

November  26th,  before  daylight  the  wind  shifted  to  the 
northwest  and  blew  very  hard,  with  cloudy  weather  and  a 
keen,  cold  air,  which  confined  us  much  and  prevented  us 
from  working.     The  night  continued  very  cold. 

November  27///.  The  weather  Wis  cloudy,  the  wind  con- 
tinued from  the  northwest,  and  the  river  was  crowded  with 
floating  ice.  Captain  Lewis  returned  with  two  chiefs : 
Mahnotah,  an  Ahnahaway,  and  Minnessurraree,  a  Minne- 
taree ;  and  a  third  warrior.  They  explained  to  us  that  the 
reason  of  their  not  having  come  to  see  us  was  that  the 
Mandans  had  told  them  that  we  meant  to  combine  with 
the  Sioux  and  cut  them  off  in  the  course  of  the  winter — a 
suspicion  increased  by  the  strength  of  the  fort  and  the  cir- 
cumstance of  our  interpreters  having  both  removed  there 
with  their  families.  These  reports  we  did  not  fail  to  dis- 
prove to  their  entire  satisfaction,  and  we  amused  them  by 
every  attention,  particularly  by  the  dancing  of  the  men, 
which  diverted  them  highly.  All  the  Indians  whom  Cap- 
tain Lewis  had  visited  were  very  well  disposed  and  received 
him  with  great  kindness,  except  a  r/incipal  chief  of  one  of 
the  upper  villages,  named  Maiiuuupaparapa=satoo  or  {p.ij^) 
Horned  Weasel,  who"'  made  use  of  the  civilized  indecorum 
of  refusing  to  be  seen,  as  when  Captain  Lewis  called  he  was 

"  ' '  Who  did  not  chuse  to  be  seen  by  the  Capt.  and  left  word  that  he  was  not 
at  home  «S:c."  Clark  C  107. 


'    wr' 


A   WARNING  AND   AN   INJUNCTION. 


203 


told  the  chief  was  no^  at  home.  In  the  course  of  the  day 
seven  of  the  Northwest  Company's  traders  arrived  from 
the  Assiniboin  river;  and  one  of  their  interpreters  having 
undertaken  to  circulate  among  the  Indians  unfavorable 
reports,  it  became  necessary  to  warn  them  of  the  conse- 
quences if  they  did  not  desist  from  such  proceedings." 
The  river  fell  two  inches  to-day,  and  the  weather  became 
very  cold. 

November  28///.  About  eight  o'clock  last  evening  it 
began  to  snow  and  continued  till  daybreak,  after  which  it 
ceased  till  seven  o'clock,  but  then  resumed  and  continued 
during  the  day,  the  weather  being  cold  and  the  river  full  of 
floating  ice.  About  eight  o'clock  Poscopsahe'"  came  down 
to  visit  us,  with  some  warriors ;  we  gave  them  presents  and 
entertained  them  with  all  that  might  amuse  their  curiosity, 
and  at  parting  we  told  them  that  we  had  heard  of  the  Brit- 
ish trader,  Mr.  Laroche,  having  attempted  to  distribute 
medals  and  flags  among  them  ;  but  that  those  emblems 
could  not  be  received  from  any  other  than  the  American 
nation  without  incurring  the  displeasure  of  their  great 
father,  the  President.  Tliey  left  us  much  pleased  with 
their  treatment.     The  river  fell  one  inch  to-day. 

November  2gth.  The  wind  is  again  from  the  northwest, 
the  weather  cold,  and  the  snow  which  fell  yesterday  and 
last  night  is  13  inches  in  depth.  The  river  closed  during 
the  night  at  the  village  above,  and  fell  two  feet ;  but  this 
afternoon  it  began  to  rise  a  little.  Mr.  Laroche,  the  prin 
cipal  of  the  seven  traders,  came  with  one  of  his  men  to  see 
us  ;  we  told  him  that  we  should  not  permit  him  to  give 
medals  and  flags  to  the  Indians  ;  he  declared  that  he  had 
no  such  intention,  and  we  then  suffered  him  to  make  use  of 
one  of  our  interpreters,  on  his  stipulating  not  to  touch  upon 

'■"Clark  C  108  names  this  interpreter  Lafrance  ;  and  "  the  principal  Mr. 
Le  Rock,  &  Mr.  Mc.Kinsey  [Laroche  and  M'Kenzie  of  the  following  text]  was 
informed  of  the  Conduct  of  their  interpeter  and  the  Consiquincies  if  they  did 
not  put  a  Stop  to  unf.ivourable  and  ill  founded  assursions." 

^  Variant  in  text  and  codices.  Clark  C  109  has  Poss-cop-so-he,  as  the  name 
of  the  Mandan  Black  Cat. 


:  y 


1 


!^i^! 


II 


204 


STIRRING  NEWS— A  COUNCIL  OF  WAR. 


'' 


any  subject  but  that  of  his  traffic  witli  them.  An  unfortu- 
nate accident  occurred  to  Sergeant  Pryor,  who  in  taking 
down  the  boat's  (/.  /j^)  mast  dislocated  his  shoulder,  nor 
was  it  till  after  four  trials  that  we  replaced  it. 

November  loth.  About  eight  o'clock  an  Indian  came  to 
the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  calling  out  that  he  had 
something  important  to  communicate.  On  sending  for 
him,  he  told  us  that  five  Mandans  had  been  met  about 
eight  leagues  to  the  southwest  by  a  party  of  Sioux,  who 
had  killed  one  of  them,  wounded  two,  and  taken  nine 
horses ;  that  four  of  the  Wattasoons  ^'  were  missing,  and 
that  the  Mandans  expected  an  attack.  We  thought  this 
an  excellent  opportunity  to  discountenance  the  injurious 
reports  against  us,  and  to  fix  the  wavering  confidence  of 
the  nation." 

Captain  Clark  therefore  instantly  crossed  the  river  with 
23  men  strongly  armed,  and  circling  the  town  approached 
it  from  behind.  His  unexpected  appearance  surprised  and 
alarmed  the  chiefs,  who  came  out  to  meet  him  and  con- 
ducted him  to  the  village.  He  then  told  them  that  having 
heard  of  the  outrage  just  committed,  he  had  come  to  assist 
his  dutiful  children  ;  that  if  they  would  assemble  <-heir 
warriors  and  those  of  the  nation,  he  would  lead  them  against 
the  Sioux  and  avenge  the  blood  of  their  countrymen. 
After  some  minutes'  conversation,  Oheenaw  the  Chayenne 
arose:  "We  now  see,"  said  he,  "that  what  you  have  told 
us  is  true,  since  as  soon  as  our  enemies  threaten  to  attack 
us  you  come  to  protect  us  and  are  ready  to  chastise  those 
who  have  spilt  our  blood.  We  did  indeed  listen  to  your 
good  talk,  for  when  you  told  us  that  the  other  nations  were 
inclined  to  peace  with  us,  we  went  out  carelessly  in  small 

"  "4  of  the  Wetersoon  nation  was  missing,"  etc.,  Clark  C  iii. 

"  "We  thought  it  well  to  shew  a  a  Desposition  to  ade  and  assist  them  against 
their  enimies,  perticul.irly  those  who  came  in  oppersition  to  our  Councils  ;  and  I 
deturmined  to  go  to  the  town  with  Some  men,  and  if  the  Suoux  were  comeing 
to  attack  the  nation  to  collect  the  worriers  from  each  village  and  meet  them, 
those  Ide.is  were  also  those  of  Capt.  Lewis,"  Clark  C  112.  And  those  war- 
riors would  have  been  "  worriers,"  with  a  William  Clark  to  lead  them. 


•1>; 


n 


u 


OHEENAW'S  VIEW  OF  THE  SITUATION.  205 

parties,  and  some  have  been  killed  by  the  Sioux  and 
Ricaras.  But  I  knew  that  the  Ricaras  were  liars,  and  I 
told  the  chief  who  accompanied  you  that  his  whole  nation 
were  liars  and  bad  men  ;  that  we  had  several  times  made  a 
peace  with  them  which  they  were  the  first  to  break ;  that 
whenever  we  pleased  we  might  shoot  them  like  buffalo,  but 
that  we  had  no  wish  to  kill  them  ;  that  we  would  not  suffer 
them  to  kill  us,  nor  steal  our  horses ;  and  that  although  we 
agreed  to  make  peace  with  them,  because  our  two  fathers 
[Lewis  and  Clark]  (/.  ij6)  desired  it,  yet  we  did  not  be- 
lieve that  they  would  be  faithful  long.  Such,  father,  was 
my  language  to  them  in  your  presence,  and  \-ou  see  that 
instead  of  listening  to  your  good  counsels  they  have  spilt 
our  blood.  A  few  days  ago  two  Ricaras  came  here  and 
told  us  that  two  of  their  villages  were  making  moccasins, 
that  the  Sioux  were  stirring  them  up  against  us,  and  that 
we  ought  to  take  care  of  our  horses;  yet  these  very  Ricaras 
we  sent  home  as  soon  as  the  news  reached  us  to-day,  lest 
our  people  should  kill  them  in  the  first  moment  of  grief  for 
their  murdered  relatives.  Four  of  the  Wattasoons  whom 
we  expected  back  in  16  days  have  been  absent  24,  and  we 
fear  have  fallen.  But,  father,  the  snow  is  now  deep,  the 
weather  cold,  and  our  horses  cannot  travel  through  the 
plains;  the  murderers  have  gone  off.  If  you  will  conduct 
us  in  the  spring,  when  the  snow  has  disappeared,  we  will 
assemble  all  the  surrounding  warriors  and  follow  you." 

Captain  Clark  replied  that  we  were  always  willing  and 
able  to  defend  them  ;  that  he  was  sorry  that  the  snow  pre- 
vented their  marching  to  meet  the  Sioux,  since  he  wished 
to  show  them  that  the  warriors  of  their  great  father  would 
chastise  the  enemies  of  his  obedient  children  who  opened 
their  ears  to  his  advice;  that  if  some  Ricaras  had  joined 
the  Sioux,  they  should  remember  that  there  were  bad  men 
in  every  nation,  and  that  they  should  not  be  offended  at 
the  Ricaras  till  they  saw  whether  these  ill-disposed  men 
were  countenanced  by  the  whole  tribe;  that  the  Sioux 
possessed  great  influence  over  the  Ricaras,  whom  they  sup- 


i  \. 


<i 


J 


206      CAPTAIN  CLARK'S  COUNSEL — THE  PIPE  OF  PEACE. 


plied  with  military  stores  and  sometimes  led  astray,  because 
they  were  afraid  to  oppose  them ;  but  that  this  should  be 
the  less  offensive  since  the  Mandans  themselves  were  under 
the  same  apprehensions  from  the  Assiniboins  and  Kniste- 
naux,  and  that  while  they  were  thus  dependent,  both  the 
Ricaras  and  Mandans  ought  to  keep  on  terms  with  their 
powerful  neighbors,  whom  they  may  afterward  set  at 
defiance,  when  we  shall  supply  them  with  arms  and  take 
them  under  our  protection. 

(/».  /J7)  After  two  hours'  conversation  Captain  Clark  left 
the  village.  The  chief  repeatedly  thanked  him  for  the 
fatherly  protection  he  had  given  them,  observing  that  the 
whole  village  had  been  weeping  all  night  and  day  for  the 
brave  young  man  who  had  been  slain,  but  now  they  would 
wipe  their  eyes  and  weep  no  more,  as  they  saw  that  their 
father  would  protect  them.  He  then  crossed  the  river  on 
the  ice  and  returned  on  the  north  side  to  the  fort.  The 
day  as  well  as  the  evening  was  cold,  and  the  river  rose  to 
its  former  height. 

Saturday,  December  ist,  1804.  The  wind  was  from  the 
northwest,  and  the  whole  party  engaged  in  picketing  the 
fort.  About  ten  o'clock  the  half-brother  of  the  man  who 
had  been  killed  came  to  inform  us  that  six  Sharha  or  Chay- 
enne  Indians  had  arrived,  bringing  a  pipe  of  peace,  and  that 
their  nation  was  three  days'  aiarch  behind  them.  Three 
Pawnees  had  accompanied  the  Sharhas,  and  the  Mandans 
being  afraid  of  the  Sharhas  on  account  of  their  being  at 
peace  with  the  Sioux,  wished  to  put  both  them  and  the 
three  PawiiCes  to  death ;  but  the  chiefs  had  forbidden  it,  as 
it  would  be  contrary  to  our  wishes.  We  gave  him  a  present 
of  tobacco,  and  although  from  his  connection  with  the  suf- 
ferer he  was  more  embittered  against  the  Pawnees  than  any 
other  Mandan,  yet  he  seemed  perfectly  satisfied  with  our 
pacific  cour  "Is  and  advice.  The  Mandans,  we  observe, 
call  all  the  Kicaras  by  the  name  of  Pawnees ;  the  name  of 
Ricaras  being  that  by  which  the  nation  distinguishes  itself. 

In  the  evening  we  were  visited  by  a  Mr.  [G.J  Henderson, 


I  ! 


..»; 


T 


**.        \ 


1  ■ 


ARIKARAS  AND  SIOUX   MUST  KEEP  THE  PEACE.      20/ 

who  came  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  trade  with 
the  Minnetarees.  He  had  been  about  eight  days  on  his 
route  in  a  direction  nearly  south,  and  brought  with  him 
tobacco,  beads,  and  other  merchandise  to  trade  for  furs, 
and  a  few  guns  which  are  to  be  exchanged  for  horses. 

December  2d.  The  latter  part  of  the  evening  was  warm 
and  a  thaw  continued  till  the  morning,  when  the  wind 
shifted  to  the  north.  At  eleven  o'clock  the  chiefs  of  {p.  ij8) 
the  lower  village  brought  down  four  of  the  Sharhas.  We 
explained  to  them  our  intentions  and  advised  them  to 
remain  at  peace  with  each  other  ;  we  also  gave  them  a  flag, 
some  tobacco,  and  a  speech  for  their  nation.  These  were 
accompanied  by  a  letter  to  Messrs.  Tabeau  and  Gravelines  " 
at  the  Ricara  village,  requesting  them  to  preserve  peace  if 
possible,  and  to  declare  the  part  which  we  should  be  forced 
to  take  if  the  Ricaras  and  Sioux  made  war  on  those  whom 
we  had  adopted.  After  distributing  a  few  presents  to  the 
Sharhas  and  Mandans,  and  showing  them  our  curiosities,  we 
dismissed  them,  apparently  well  pleased  at  their  reception. 

December  id.  The  morning  was  fine,  but  in  the  afternoon 
the  weather  became  cold,  with  the  wind  from  the  northwest. 
The  father  of  the  Mandan  who  was  killed  brought  us  a 
present  of  dried  pumpkins  and  some  pemitigon  [pemmican], 
for  which  we  gave  him  some  small  articles.  Our  offer  of 
assistance  to  avenge  the  death  of  his  son  seemed  to  have 
produced  a  grateful  respect  from  him,  as  well  as  from  the 
brother  of  the  deceased,  which  pleased  us  much. 

December  ^th.  The  wind  continued  from  the  northwest, 
the  weather  cloudy  and  raw,  and  the  river  rose  one  inch. 
Oscapsahe"  and  two  young  chiefs  passed  the  day  with  us. 

The  whole  religion  of  the  Mandans  consists  in  the  belief 
of  one  Great  Spirit  presiding  over  their  destinies.  This 
Being  must  be  in  the  nature  of  a  good  genius,  since  it  is 

""A  letter  to  Messrs.  Tabbo  &  Gravoline,  at  the  Ricares  Village,  to  inter- 
seed  in  proventinjr  Hostilities,"  Clark  C  121. 

'*  5iV— usually  Poscopsahe  in  text  ;  codex  here  has  only  "Black  Cat "  ;  see 
note  *',  Nov.  28th,  p.  203. 


li 


208 


MANDAN  RELIGION  AND  TRADITION. 


associated  with  the  healing  art,  and  "  great  spirit "  is  synony- 
mous with  "  great  medicine,"  a  name  applied  to  every- 
thing which  they  do  not  comprehend.  Each  individual 
selects  for  himself  the  particular  object  of  his  devotion, 
wiiich  is  termed  his  medicine,  and  is  either  some  invisible 
being  or  more  commonly  some  animal,  which  thencefor- 
ward becomes  his  protector  or  his  intercessor  with  the  Great 
Spirit,  to  propitiate  whom  every  attention  is  lavished  and 
every  personal  consideration  is  sacrificed.  "  I  was  lately 
owner  of  17  horses,"  said  a  Mandan  to  us  one  day,  *'  but  I 
(A  ^39)  have  offered  them  all  up  to  my  medicine  and  am 
now  poor."  He  had  in  reality  taken  all  his  wealth,  his 
horses,  into  the  plain,  and,  turning  them  loose,  committed 
them  to  the  care  of  his  medicine  and  abandoned  them  for- 
ever. The  horses,  less  religious,  took  care  of  themselves, 
and  the  pious  votary  traveled  home  on  foot. 

Their  belief  in  a  future  state  is  connected  with  this  tra- 
dition of  their  origin:  The  whole  nation  resided  in  one 
large  village  underground  near  a  subterraneous  lake ;  a 
grape-vine  extended  its  roots  down  to  their  habitation  and 
gave  them  a  view  of  the  light ;  some  of  the  most  adventu- 
rous climbed  up  the  vine  and  were  delighted  with  the  sight 
of  the  earth,  which  they  found  covered  with  buffalo  and  rich 
with  every  kind  of  fruits  ;  returning  with  the  grapes  they 
had  gathered,  their  countrymen  were  so  pleased  with  the 
taste  of  them  that  the  whole  nation  resolved  to  leave  their 
dull  residence  for  the  charms  of  the  upper  region  ;  men 
women,  and  children  ascended  by  means  of  the  vine;  but 
when  about  half  the  nation  had  reached  the  surface  of  the 
earth,  a  corpulent  woman  who  was  clambering  up  the  vine 
broke  it  with  her  weight,  and  closed  upon  herself  and  the 
rest  of  the  nation  the  light  of  the  sun.  Those  who  were  left 
on  earth  made  a  village  below,  where  we  saw  the  nine  vil- 
lages ;  and  when  the  Mandans  die  they  expect  to  return  to 
the  original  seats  of  their  forefathers,  the  good  reaching  the 
ancient  village  by  means  of  the  lake,  which  the  burden  of 
the  sins  of  the  wicked  will  not  enable  them  to  cross. 


J:^ 


ns' 


V 


A  BUFFALO   HUNT, 


209 


December  $(/t.  The  morning  was  cold  and  disagreeable, 
the  wind  from  the  southeast,  accompanied  by  snow;  in  the 
evening  there  was  snow  again,  and  the  wind  shifted  to  the 
northeast.  We  were  visited  by  several  Indians,  with  a 
present  of  pumpkins,  and  by  two  of  the  traders  of  the 
Northwest  Company. 

December  6th.  The  wind  was  violent  from  the  north- 
northwest,  with  some  snow,  the  air  keen  and  cold.  At 
8  a.  m.  the  themometer  stood  at  lo**  above  (/.  140)  zero, 
and  the  river  rose  an  inch  and  a  half  in  the  course  of 
the  day. 

December  yth.  The  wind  still  continued  from  the  north- 
west and  the  day  was  very  cold.  Shahaka  [Big  White], 
the  chief  of  the  lower  village,  came  to  apprise  us  that  the 
buffalo  were  near,  and  that  his  people  were  waiting  for  us 
to  join  them  in  the  chase.  Captain  Clark  with  15  men  went 
out  and  found  the  Indians  engaged  in  killing  buffalo.  The 
hunters,  mounted  on  horseback  and  armed  with  bows  and 
arrows,  encircle  the  herd  and  gradually  drive  them  into  a 
plain  or  an  open  place  fit  for  the  movements  of  horse;  they 
then  ride  in  among  them,  and  singling  out  a  buffalo,  a 
female  being  preferred,  go  as  close  as  possible  and  wound 
her  with  arrows  till  they  think  they  have  given  the  mortal 
stroke;  when  they  pursue  another,  till  the  quiver  is  ex- 
hausted. If,  which  rarely  happens,  the  wounded  buffalo 
attacks  the  hunter,  he  evades  his  blow  by  the  agility  of  his 
horse,  which  is  trained  for  the  combat  with  great  dexterity. 
When  they  have  killed  the  requisite  number  they  collect 
their  game,  and  the  squaws  and  attendants  come  up  from 
the  rear  and  skin  and  dress  the  animals.  Captain  Clark 
killed  ten  buffalo,  of  which  five  only  were  brought  to  the 
fort ;  the  rest,  which  could  not  be  conveyed  home,  being 
seized  by  the  Indians,  among  whom  the  custom  is  tha_ 
whenever  a  buffalo  is  found  dead  without  an  arrow  or  any 
particular  mark,  he  is  the  property  of  the  finder;  so  that 
often  a  hunter  secures  scarcely  any  of  the  game  he  kills,  if 
the  arrow  happens  to  fall  off.     Whatever  is  left  out  at  night 


M 


« 

■1 

■v* 

) 

'1ill. 

1 


!  I 


1 

!•• 

1 
1 

n  : 

IF 

<l 


I 


210 


THE  HUNT  CONTINUED. 


falls  to  the  share  of  the  wolves,  who  are  the  constant  and 
numerous  attendants  of  the  buffalo.  The  river  closed 
opposite  the  fort  last  night,  [with  ice]  an  inch  and  a  half  in 
thickness.  In  the  morning  the  thermometer  stood  at  i* 
below  zero.  Three  men  were  badly  frost-bitten  in  conse- 
quence of  their  exposure. 

December  8f/t.  The  thermometer  stood  at  12°  below  zero 
— that  is,  at  42°  below  the  freezing-  {p.  141)  point ;  the  wind 
was  from  the  northwest.  Captain  Lewis,  with  15  men, 
went  out  to  hunt  buffalo,  great  numbers  of  which  darkened 
the  prairies  for  a  considerable  distance  ;  they  did  not  return 
till  after  dark,  having  killed  eight  buffalo  and  one  deer. 
The  hunt  was,  however,  very  fatiguing,  as  they  were  obliged 
to  make  a  circuit  at  the  distance  of  more  than  seven  miles; 
the  cold,  too,  was  so  excessive  that  the  air  was  filled  with 
icy  particles  resembling  a  fog;  the  snow  was  generally  6 
or  8  inches  deep  and  sometimes  18,  in  consequence  of 
which  two  of  the  party  were  hurt  by  falls,  and  several  had 
their  feet  frost-bitten. 

December  gth.  The  wind  was  this  day  from  the  east,  the 
thermometer  at  7°  above  zero,  and  the  sun  shone  clear. 
Two  chiefs  visited  us,  one  in  a  sleigh  drawn  by  a  dog  and 
loaded  with  meat. 

December  lof/i.  Captain  Clark,  who  had  gone  out  yes- 
terday with  18  men,  to  bring  in  the  meat  we  had  killed  the 
day  before,  and  to  continue  the  hunt,  came  in  at  twelve 
o'clock.  After  killing  nine  buffalo  and  preparing  those 
already  dead,  he  had  spent  a  cold,  disagreeable  night  on  the 
snow,  with  no  covering  but  a  small  blanket,  sheltered  by 
the  hides  of  the  buffalo  they  had  killed.  We  observe  large 
herds  of  buffalo  crossing  the  river  on  the  ice.  The  men 
who  were  frost-bitten  are  recovering,  but  the  weather  is 
still  exceedingly  cold,  the  wind  being  from  the  north  and 
the  thermometer  at  10"  and  11°  below  zero ;  the  rise  of  the 
river  is  one  inch  and  a  half. 

December  i  Uh.  The  weather  is  so  intensely  cold  that  we 
sent  for  ail  the  hunters  who  had  remained  out  with  Captain 


jt:  .1 


•Ki^ 


> 


INTENSELY  COLD  WEATHER— FROST-BITES. 


211 


Clark's  party,  and  they  returned  in  the  evening,  several  of 
them  frost-bitten.  The  wiiul  was  from  the  north  and  the 
thermometer  at  sunrise  stood  at  21°  below  zero,  the  ice  in 
the  atmosphere  being  so  thick  as  to  render  the  weather 
hazy  and  give  the  appearance  of  two  suns  reflecting  each 
other.  The  river  continues  at  a  stand.  Pocapsahe  [sic] 
made  us  a  visit  to-day. 

(/>.  142)  December  12///."  The  wind  is  still  from  the  north, 
the  thermometer  being  at  sunrise  38°  below  zero.  One  of 
the  Ahnahaways  brought  us  down  the  half  of  an  antelope 
killed  near  the  fort.  We  had  been  informed  that  all  these 
animals  return  to  the  Black  mountains,  but  there  are  great 
numbers  of  them  about  us  at  this  season  which  we  might 
easily  kill,  were  we  not  unwilling  to  venture  out  before  our 
constitutions  are  hardened  gradually  to  the  climate.  We 
measured  the  river  on  the  ice,  and  find  it  500  yards  wide 
immediately  opposite  the  fort. 

December  iith.  Last  night  was  clear,  and  a  very  heavy 
frost  covered  the  old  snow;  the  thermometer  at  sunrise 
being  20*'  below  zero,  and  followed  by  a  fine  day.  The 
river  falls. 

December  14///.  The  morning  was  fine,  and  the  weather 
having  moderated  so  far  that  the  mercury  stood  at  zero, 
Captain  Lewis  went  down  with  a  party  to  hunt.  They 
proceeded  about  18  miles;  but  the  buffalo  having  left 
the  banks  of  the  river  they  saw  only  two,  which  were  so 
poor  as  not  to  be  worth  killing,  and  shot  two  deer.  Not- 
withstanding the  snow,  we  were  visited  by  a  large  number 
of  Mandans. 

December  15///.  Captain  Lewis  finding  no  game  returned 
to  the  fort,  hunting  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  but  with 

'*  "  I  line  my  Gloves  and  have  a  Cap  made  of  the  Skin  of  the  Louservia  (Lynx) 
(or  Wild  Cat  of  the  North)  the  fur  near  3  inches  long,"  Clark  C  129.  An 
interesting  passage,  one  of  the  earliest  in  which  loup-cervier  was  ever  written  in 
such  a  form,  and  also  showing  that  Clark  knew  the  Canada  lynx.  Lynx  (anadeti. 
sis,  generically  and  specifically.  The  Statistical  View,  1807,  once  prints  "  lynx 
or  louverin."  The  entry  for  this  date  also  calls  the  antelope  Cabra  or  Koka, 
and  names  as  Mocassin  Indians  those  heretofore  called  Maharhas  or  Shoes. 


/  i 


^^ 


>  , 

1:1 

^ 


i 


1^ 


2i: 


INTERNATIONAL  COURTESIES. 


no  success.  The  wind  was  from  the  north,  the  mercury 
at  sunrise  8°  degrees  below  zero,  and  the  snow  of  last  night 
an  inch  and  a  half  in  depth.  The  Indian  chiefs  continue 
to  visit  us  to-day  with  presents  of  meat. 

DiCimbcr  \6th.  The  morning  is  clear  and  cold,  the  mer- 
cury at  sunrise  22"  below  zero.  A  Mr.  Haney,"'  with  two 
other  persons  from  the  British  establishment  on  the  Assin- 
iboin,  arrived  in  six  days  with  a  letter  from  Mr.  Charles 
Chabouilles,  one  of  the  Company,  who  with  much  polite- 
ness offered  to  render  us  any  service  in  his  power." 

December  yjth.  The  weather  to-day  was  colder  than  any 
we  had  yet  experienced,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being 
45*  below  zero,  and  about  eight  o'clock  it  fell  to  74°  below 

'''  Name  in  question.  It  is  certainly  not  Haney  in  Clark  C  133,  where  it  is 
twice  written  Henny  or  Henry.  The  other  gentleman  named  in  the  above  para- 
graph is  on  the  same  page  Chaboillez,  in  a  very  hrm,  heavy  hand,  which  Clark 
often  used  when  he  wished  to  emphasise  a  name.  The  letter  referred  to  was  no 
doubt  in  answer  to  the  one  already  quoted,  p.  187  ;  but  I  have  never  seen  it. 

■"  "  The  object  of  the  visits  we  received  from  the  N.W.  Company  was  to  ascer- 
tain our  motives  for  visiting  that  country,  and  to  gain  information  with  respect  to 
the  change  of  Government  [cession  of  Louisiana  to  the  United  States  by  the 
French],"  is  the  shrewd  rera-irk  of  Gass,  p.  65,  this  date. 

The  Hudson's  Day  Company  was  originally  chartered  by  Charles  II.  in  1670. 
In  the  winter  of  1783-84,  merchants  of  Montreal  entered  in  partnership,  and 
amalgamated  a  rival  company  in  1787.  This  was  the  birth  of  the  famous  Ndrth- 
west  Company,  consisting  of  over  20  shareholders  and  employing  2,000  persons, 
controlling  the  fur  trade  from  Montreal  through  all  the  regions  of  the  Great  Lakes, 
and  thence  to  Athapasca  and  Great  Slave,  and  avcn  to  the  Pacific  in  British 
America.  The  great  annual  rendezvous  of  this  system  was  at  Fort  William,  near 
the  Grand  Portage  of  Lake  Superior,  where  the  commercial  potentates  of  civiliza- 
tion met  their  factors,  and  where  swarmed  the  mongrel  legion  of  their  dependants 
and  retainers.  Another  British  association  was  formed  soon  after,  the  Mackinaw, 
to  work  the  country  further  south,  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi.  To 
counteract  this,  the  U.  S.  government,  as  early  as  1796,  sent  rival  Indian 
traders;  who,  however,  were  no  match  for  their  competitors.  About  1794, 
treaty  with  Great  Britain  had  opened  direct  commerce  between  Canada  and  the 
United  States.  In  1807  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor  embarked  in  the  fur  trade  on  his 
own  account.  But  the  Michilimackinac  or  Mackinaw  corporation  was  too  strong 
for  him.  The  American  Fur  Company  was  incorporated  by  the  State  of  New 
Vork  in  1808  or  1809 — this  concern  being  practically  Mr.  Astor  himse'f,  who 
furnisheda  million  of  capital.  In  1811,  an  arrangement  was  made  by  which  Mr. 
Astor  and  certain  parties  of  the  Northwest  Company  bought  out  the  Mackinaw, 


N 


AN   INDIAN  GAME. 


!I3 


(A  ^4j)  t'^c  freezing-point.  From  Mr.  Haney,  who  is  a  very 
sensible,  intelligent  man,  we  obtained  much  geographical 
information  with  regard  to  the  country  between  the  Mis- 
souri  and  Mississippi,  and  the  various  tribes  of  Sioux  who 
inhabit  it. 

December  iSt/i.  The  thermometer  at  sunrise  was  32*^ 
below  zero.  The  Indians  had  invited  us  yesterday  to  join 
their  chase  to-day,  but  the  seven  men  whom  we  sent 
returned  in  consequence  of  the  cold,  which  was  so  severe 
last  night  that  we  were  obliged  to  have  the  sentinel  relieved 
every  half  hour.  The  Northwest  traders,'"  however,  left  us 
on  their  return  home. 

December  igi/t.  The  weather  moderated  and  the  river 
rose  a  little,  so  that  we  were  enabled  to  continue  the 
picketing  of  the  fort.  Notwithstanding  the  extreme  cold, 
we  observed  the  Indians  at  the  village  engaged  in  the  open 
air  at  a  game  which  resembled  billiards  more  than  any- 
thing we  had  seen,  and  which  we  inclined  to  suspect  may 
have  been  acquired  by  ancient  intercourse  with  the  French 
of  Canada.  From  the  first  to  the  second  chief's  lodge,  a 
distance  of  about  fifty  yards,  was  covered  with  timber 
smoothed  and  joined  so  as  to  be  as  level  as  the  floor  of  one 
of  our  houses,  with  a  battery  at  the  end  to  stop  the  rings. 
These  rings  were  of  clay-stone  and  flat  like  the  checkers 
for  draughts,  and  the  sticks  were  about  four  feet  long,  with 
two  short  pieces  at  one  end  in  the  form  of  a  mace,  so  fixed 
that  the  whole  will  slide  along  the  board.  Two  men  fix 
themselves  at  one  end,  each  provided  with  a  stick,  and  one 


4: 


and  merged  that  and  the  American  into  one  called  the  Southwest  Company  ; 
by  which  means  Mr.  Aster  acquired  one-half  of  the  property  and  interests  which 
the  Mackinaw  held  in  the  Indian  country  of  the  United  States.  The  status 
quo  was  suspended  by  the  war  of  1812,  and  after  the  war  the  association  was 
dissolved.     (Irving's  AsXorxdi,  passim.) 

'8 ' 'Messrs.  Haney  and  La  Roche,"  Clark  C  1 33,  which  continues  at  this  date  : 
"  Sent  Jessomme  to  the  Main  Chief  of  the  Mandans  to  know  the  cause  of  his 
detaining  or  takeing  a  horse  of  Chabonoe  our  big  belly  interpeter,  which  we 
found  was  thro'  the  rascality  of  one  Lafrance  a  trader  trom  the  N.  W.  company 
who  told  this  Chief  that  Chabonat  owd.  him  a  horse." 


I ' 


I  I 


214 


THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAIN   SHIiEP. 


of  them  with  a  ring;  they  then  run  along  the  board,  and 
about  halfway  slide  the  sticks  after  the  ring. 

December  20th.  The  wind  was  from  the  N.W.,  the 
weather  moderate,  the  thermometer  24**  above  zero  at  sun- 
rise. We  availed  ourselves  of  this  change  to  picket  the 
fort  near  the  river. 

December  2\st.  The  day  was  ':ne  and  warm,  the  wind 
N.W.  by  W.  The  Indian  who  had  been  prevented  a  few 
days  ago  from  killing  his  wife  came  with  both  his  wives  to 
the  fort,  and  was  very  desirous  of  reconciling  our  interpreter, 
a  jeal-  (/.  /^y)  ousy  against  whom,  on  account  of  his  wife's 
taking  refuge  in  his  house,  had  been  the  cause  of  his  ani- 
mosity. A  woman  brought  her  child  with  an  abscess  in 
the  lower  part  of  the  back,  and  offered  as  much  corn  as 
she  could  carry  for  some  medicine;  we  administered  it  of 
course  very  cheerfully. 

December  22d.  A  number  of  squaws  and  men  dressed 
like  squaws  brought  corn  to  trade  for  small  articles  with 
the  men.  Among  other  things  we  procured  two  horns  of 
the  animal  called  by  the  French  [b^lier  des  Montagnes 
Rocheuses,  or]  the  Rock  [y]  mountain  sheep  [Ovis  montaita], 
and  known  to  the  Mandans  by  the  name  of  ahsahta."  The 
animal  itself  is  about  the  size  of  a  small  elk  or  large  deer; 
the  horns  winding  like  those  of  a  ram,  which  they  resemble 
also  in  texture,  though  larger  and  thicker. 

December  2}(/.  The  weather  was  fine  and  warm  like  that 
of  yesterday.  We  were  again  visited  by  crowds  of  Indians 
of  all  descriptions,  who  came  either  to  trade  or  from  mere 
curiosity.  Among  the  rest  Kagohami  or  Little  Raven, 
brought  his  wife  and  son  loaded  with  corn,  and  she  then 
entertained  us  with  a  favorite  Mandan  dish,  a  mixture  of 
pumpkins,'"  beans,  corn,  and  choke-cherries  with  the  stones. 


"  "  Ar-sar-ta,"  Clark  C  135  ;  elsewhere  as  in  the  text.     See  note  ",  p.  150. 

*""  A  kittle  of  boiled  Simnins,  beens,"etc.,  Clark  C  136,  using  the  name 
common  in  the  Southern  States  for  summer  squashes,  and  so  working  a  Cin 
with  the  5  that  it  is  impossible  to  say  which  initial  letter  was  meant  to  stand. 
This  is  a  word  the  proper  spelling  of  which  lexicographers  dispute  almost  as 


i^ 


-™, 


ll 


CHRISTMAS   FESTIVITIES. 


215 


all  boiled  together  in  a  kettle,  and  forming  a  composition 
by  no  means  unpalatable. 

December  24///.  The  day  continued  warm  and  pleasant, 
and  the  number  of  visitors  became  troublesome.  As  a 
present  to  three  of  the  chiefs,  we  divided  a  fillet  of  sheep- 
skin, which  we  brought  for  sponging,  into  three  pieces,  each 
of  two  inches  in  width ;  they  were  delighted  at  the  gift, 
which  they  deemed  of  equal  value  with  a  fine  horse.  We 
this  day  completed  our  fort,  and  the  next  morning  being 
Christmas, 

Tuesday,  December  zt^th,  we  were  awaked  before  day  by 
a  discharge  of  three  platoons  from  the  party.  We  had 
told  the  Indians  not  to  visit  us,  as  it  was  one  of  our  great 
medicine  days ;  so  that  the  men  remained  at  home  and 
amused  themselves  in  various  ways,  particularly  with  danc- 
ing, in  which  they  take  great  pleasure.  The  American  flag 
was  hoisted  (/.  14.5)  for  the  first  time  in  the  fort ;  the  best 
provisions  we  had  were  brought  out,  and  this,  with  a  little 
brandy,  enabled  them  to  pass  the  day  in  great  festivity." 

December  26th.  The  weather  is  again  temperate,  but 
no  Indians  have  come  to  see  us.  One  of  the  Northwest 
traders,  who  came  down  to  request  the  aid  of  our  Minne- 
taree  interpreters,  informed  us  that  a  party  of  Minnetarees 
who  had  gone  in  pursuit  of  the  Assiniboins  who  lately  stole 
their  horses  had  just  returned.  As  is  their  custom,  they 
came  back  in  small  detachments,  the  last  of  which  brought 
home  eight  horses  which  they  had  captured  or  stolen  from 
an  Assiniboin  camp  on  Mouse  river. 

December  2'jth.  A  little  fine  snow  fell  this  morning,  and 
the  air  was  colder  than  yesterday,  with  a  high  northwest 

much  as  they  ilo  simitar.  Clark's  genius  led  him  to  choose  a  form  quite  near 
simnel,  which  is  probably  the  best,  and  certainly  better  than  the  usual  dialectic 
variants,  cymlin  and  cymhlin. 

*'  "  I  give  them  all  a  little  Taffia,"  Clark  C  137,  meaning  a  ration  of  rum. 
It  is  interesting  to  find  written  in  1804,  on  the  Upper  Missouri,  a  Malay  word 
which  we  get  from  the  French  by  way  of  the  West  Indies,  We  call  this  liquor 
Jamaica.  Taffia  or  tafia,  spirit  distilled  from  sugar  or  molasses,  seems  to  be  the 
origin  of  the  familiar  name  for  molasses  candy,  tnffy.     Compare  ratofia. 


8  ! 


I 


w 


[^ 


2l6 


THE   SIOUX   TRIBES   KDVJEWED. 


¥ 


It 


wind.  We  were  fortunate  enough  to  have  among  our  men 
a  good  blacksmith,  whom  we  set  to  work  to  make  a  variety 
of  articles.  His  operations  seemed  to  surprise  the  Indians 
who  came  to  see  us,  but  nothing  could  equal  their  astonish- 
ment at  the  bellows,  which  they  considered  as  very  great 
medicine. 

Having  heretofore  promised  a  more  particular  account 
of  the  Sioux,  the  following  "  may  serve  as  a  general  outline 
of  their  history : 

Almost  the  whole  of  that  vast  tract  of  country  comprised 
between  the  Mississippi,  the  Red  river  of  Lake  Winiiepcg, 
the  Saskaskawan,  and  the  Missouri,  is  loosely  occupied 
by  a  great  nation,  whose  primitive  name  is  Darcota, 
but  who  are  called  Sioux  by  the  French.  Sues  by  the 
E.  ^lish.  Their  original  seats  were  on  the  Mississippi,  but 
they  have  gradually  spread  themselves  abroad  and  become 
subdivided  into  numerous  tribes.  Of  these,  what  may 
be  considered  as  the  Darcotas  are  the  Mindawarcarton 
or  Minowakanton,  known  to  the  P'rench  by  the  name  of 
the  Gens  du  Lac,  or  People  of  the  Lake.  Their  residence 
is  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi  near  the  falls  of  St. 
Anthony,  ?nd  the  probable  number  of  their  warriors  about 
300.  Above  them,  on  the  S^.  Peter's  river,  (/>.  146)  is  the 
Wahpatone,  a  smaller  band  of  nearly  200  men  ;  and  still 
further  up  the  same  river,  below  Yellow-wood  river,  are  the 
Wuhpatootas  or  Gens  de  Feuilles,  an  inferior  band  of  not 
more  than  100  men  ;  while  the  sources  of  the  St.  Peter's 
arc  occupied  by  the  Sisatoones,  a  band  consisting  of  about 
200  warriors 

These  bands  rarely,  If  ever,  approach  the  Missouri,  which 
is  occupied  by  their  kinsmen,  the  Yanktons  and  the  Tetons. 

*'  What  follows  is  but  a  slight  sketch,  which  maybe  passed  without  comment, 
and  might  have  been  omitted  without  loss,  ai  it  adds  scarcely  anything  to  what 
has  been  already  said  :  3ce  p.  qg  sf(/.,  p.  123  sfi/.,  and  .iotes  there.  The  frag- 
ment indicates,  perhaps,  a  more  extended  notice  which  the  explorers  had 
intended  to  give,  before  they  discovereu  that  they  had  already  exhausted  their 
information,     liut  we  have  a  few  additional  words  concerning  the  Assiniboins. 


«*^*W»3JV.<J 


w 


SIOUX   AND   ASSINIBOINS. 


fii 


217 


The  Yanktons  are  of  two  tribes,  those  of  the  Plains,  or 
rather  of  the  North,  a  wandering  race  of  about  500  nnen, 
who  roam  over  the  plains  at  the  heads  of  the  Jacques,  the 
Sioux,  and  the  Red  river ;  and  those  of  the  South,  who 
possess  the  country  between  the  Jacques  and  Sioux  rivers 
and  the  Desmoine.  But  the  bands  of  Sioux  most  known 
on  the  Missouri  are  the  Tetons.  The  first  who  are  met  on 
ascending  tlie  Missouri  is  the  tribe  called  by  the  French  the 
Tetons  of  the  Boise  Brule  or  Burntwood,  who  reside  on 
both  sides  of  the  Missouri,  about  White  and  Teton  rivers, 
and  number  200  warriors.  Above  them  on  the  Missouri 
are  the  Teton  Okandandas,  a  band  of  150  men  living  below 
the  Chayenne  river,  between  which  and  the  Wetarhoo  river 
is  a  third  band,  called  Teton  Minnakenozzo,  of  nearly  250 
men  ;  below  the  Warreconne  is  the  fourth  and  last  tribe 
of  Tritons,  of  about  300  men,  called  Teton  Saone.  North- 
ward  of  these,  between  the  Assiniboin  and  the  Missouri, 
are  two  bands  of  Assiniboins,  one  on  Mouse  river,  of  about 
200  men,  called  Assiniboin  Menatopa,  tlie  other,  residing  on 
both  sides  of  White  river,  called  by  the  French  Gens  des 
Feuilles,  amounting  to  250  men.  Beyond  these,  a  band  of 
Assiniboins,  of  450  men,  called  [by  the  French  Gens  des 
Grands  Diables,  or]  the  Big  Devils,  wander  on  the  heads 
of  Milk,  Porcupine,  and  Martha's  rivers ,  while  still  further 
to  the  north  are  seen  two  bands  of  the  same  nation,  one 
of  500  and  the  other  of  200,  roving  on  the  Saskaskawan. 
Those  (/>.  /^y)  Assiniboins  are  recognized,  by  a  similarity 
of  language  and  by  tradition,  as  descendants  or  seceders 
from  the  Sioux  ;  though  often  at  war  they  are  still  acknowl- 
edged as  relations.  The  Sioux  themselves,  though  scat- 
tered, meet  annually  on  the  Jacques  those  of  the  Missouri 
trading  with  those  of  the  Mississippi. 


I    :| 


^     H 


1 


k  >■> 


^,1 


V 


m 


h 


CHAPTER  VI. 

WITH   THE   MANDANS:   CONTINUED. 

Intense  cold — New  Year's  Day  celebrated— Abduction  and  recovery  o(  an  Indian  girl— Indian 
BufTalo-dance — Itslcwd  features  described  in  Latin— Indian  medicine  dance — Mercury  40^ 
below  zero — Indian  endurance  of  cold— Hunting  parties  out — Return  of  Chaboneau  frost- 
bitten— Unfriendly  attitude  t-f  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  ai;i;nt — Visits  of  Minnetaree  and 
Mandan  chiefs— Advised  to  keep  tlie  peace— Visit  of  Laroche  and  McKcnzie— Weather 
records  and  various  occupations— The  Mandans  short  of  provisions— Curious  obstetrics — 
Return  of  horses  loaded  with  meat — lu'.'ian  treatmentofhorso.^— Account  of  Captain  Clark's 
ht.nting-trip — Hostile  treatment  of  a  hunting-party  by  supposed  Sioux— Captain  Lewis  sets 
out  to  punish  them— Death  of  an  aged  Mandan — Consultation  of  the  famous  Medicine-stone 
—  Return  uf  Captain  Lewis  unsuccessful  from  pursuit  r.i  the  Indians— Getting  the  boats 
out  of  the  ice — New  boats  to  be  built— Root  for  cure  of  bites  of  mad  dogs  and  rattlesnakes 
— Arrival  of  Mr.  Gravelines  and  others  with  letters,  and  various  information  about  the 
Indians—Prairies  burned  by  Minnetarees,  a:.  J  why — Visit  of  Le  Rorgne,  grand  chief  of  the 
Minnetarees — Summary  Indian  j -.stice^Caprice  of  Indians  in  murdering  or  sparing 
unfaithful  wives— Secret  process  oL  manu..:cturing  Mandan  beads— Chaboneau's  case — 
Completion  of  the  boats. 

T^ECEMBER  28th.  The  wind  continued  high  last  night, 
^^  the  frost  severe,  and  the  snow  drifting  in  great  quan- 
tities through  the  plains. 

December  2gth.  There  was  3  frost  last  night  nearly  one- 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  depth,  which  continued  to  fall  till  the 
sun  had  gained  some  height;  the  mercury  at  sunrise  stood 
at  9°  below  zero  ;  there  were  a  number  of  Indians  at  the 
fort  in  the  course  of  the  day. 

December  loth.  The  we.ither  was  cold,  and  the  ther- 
mometer 20°  below  zero.  We  killed  one  deer, and  yesterday 
one  of  the  men  shot  a  wolf.  The  Indians  brought  corn, 
beans,  and  squashes,  which  they  readily  gave  for  getting 
their  axes  and  kettles  mended.  In  their  general  conduct 
during  these  visits  they  are  honest,  but  will  occasionally 
pilfer  some  small  article. 

December  ^ist.  During  the  night  there  was  a  high  wind 
which  covered  the  ice  witii  hillocks  of  mixed  sand  and 
snow.     The  day  was  however  fine,  and  the  Indians  came  in 

3l3 


NEW   YEARS   DAY   CELEBRATED. 


2(9 


great   numbers   for   the  purpose  of  having  their  utensils 
repaired. 

Tuesday,  January  \st,  1805.  The  new  year  was  welcomed 
by  two  shots  from  the  swivel  a, id  a  round  of  small-arms. 
The  weather  was  cloudy  but  moderate  ;  the  mercury,  which 
at  sunrise  was  at  18*,  in  the  course  of  the  day  rose  to  34° 
above  zero  ;  toward  evening  it  began  to  rain,  and  at  night  we 
(/.  i^g)  had  snow,  the  temperature  for  which  is  about  zero. 
In  the  morning  we  permitted  16  men  with  their  music  to  go 
up  to  the  first  village,  where  they  delighted  the  whole  tribe 
with  tiieir  dances,  particularly  with  the  movements  of  one 
of  the  Frenchmen,  who  danced  on  his  head.'  In  return  they 
presented  the  dancers  with  several  buffalo-robes  and  quan- 
ties  of  corn.  We  were  desirous  of  showing  this  attention 
to  the  village,  because  they  had  received  an  impression 
that  we  had  been  wanting  in  regard  for  them,  and  because 
they  had  in  consequence  circulated  inviduous  comparisons 
between  us  and  the  northern  traders.  All  these,  however, 
they  declared  to  Captain  Clark,  who  visited  them  in  tlie 
course  of  the  morning,  were  made  in  jest.  As  Captain 
Clark  was  about  leaving  the  village,  two  of  their  chiefs 
returned  from  a  mission  to  the  Grosveiitrcs  or  wandering' 

'  This  statement  startled  Mr.  Biddle,  who  catechized  Captain  Claric  about  it. 
He  was  doubtless  so  much  relieved  to  find  that  the  Frenchr  ■  i  -lanced  on  his 
hands,  head  downward,  that  he  let  it  go  into  type. 

'  A  distinction  is  here  drawn  between  these  "  wandering  "  Minnetarees  and 
those  whom  L.  and  C.  for  some  reason  regarded  as  Minnetarees  proper. 
Clark  C  142  has  :  "  .\  large  parly  of  Gross  Vintm  who  were  on  their  way  down 
from  their  camps  10  miles  above  to  revenge  on  the  Shoe  tribe  an  injury,"  etc. 
Here  it  is  also  well  to  remark  that  we  must  always  bear  in  mind  the  very  broad 
line  to  be  drawn  between  any  of  the  "Minnetarees"  or  "  Urosventres  "  who 
were  sedentary  on  the  Missouri,  and  those  entirely  different  Indians  whom 
L.  and  C.  will  later  repeatedly  term  "  Minnetarees  of  fort  de  prairie,"  or  call 
by  some  equivalent  expression.  The  case  will  come  up  ag.ain  for  treatment  ; 
but  here  I  may  cite  Matthews,  p.  33  ;  ' '  The  name  [Grosvcntres]  was  also 
applied  to  a  tribe,  totally  distimt  from  these  [Ilidatsans]  in  laneuage  and  origin, 
which  lives  some  hundreds  of  miles  west  of  Fort  Herthold  ;  and  the  two  nations 
are  now  distinguished  from  one  ano'her  as  (jrosventres  of  the  Missouri  and 
Grosventres  of  the  Prairie,  names  which  would  lead  strangers  to  suppose  that 
they  were  merely  separate  divisions  of  one  tribe." 


1 1 

^1 


!       h 


I 


220 


ABDUCTION   AND   RECOVERY   OF   A   GIRL. 


li 


I.      \ 


Minnetarees.  These  people  were  camped  about  ten  miles 
above,  and  while  there  one  of  the  Ahnahaways  had  stolen 
a  Miiinetaree  girl.  The  whole  nation  immediately  espoused 
the  quarrel,  and  150  of  their  warriors  were  marching  down 
to  revenge  the  insult  on  the  Ahnahaways.  The  chief  of 
that  nation  took  the  girl  from  the  ravisher,  and  giving 
her  to  the  Mandans  requested  their  intercession.  The 
messengers  went  out  to  meet  the  warriors,  delivered  the 
young  damsel  into  the  hands  of  her  countrymen,  smoked 
the  pipe  of  pence  with  them,  and  were  fortunate  enough  to 
avert  their  indignation  and  induce  them  to  return.  In  the 
evening  some  of  the  men  came  to  the  fort  and  the  rest 
slept  in  the  village.  Pocapsahe  also  visited  us  and  brought 
some  meat  on  his  wife's  back. 

January  2d.  It  snowed  last  night.  During  this  day  the 
same  scene  of  gayety  was  renewed  at  the  second  village, 
and  all  the  men  returned  in  the  evening.' 

January  id.  Last  night  it  becanie  very  cold,  and  this 
morning  we  had  some  snow.  Our  hunters  vvere  sent  out  for 
buffalo,  but  the  game  had  been  frightened  from  the  river  by 
the  Indians,  so  that  they  obtained  only  one.  They  how- 
ever {p.  i£o)  killed  a  hare  and  a  wolf.  Among  the  Indians 
who  visited  us  was  a  Minnetaree  who  came  to  seek  his  wife. 
She  had  been  much  abused  and  came  here  for  protection, 
but  returned  with  him,  as  we  had  no  authority  to  separate 
those  whom  even  the  Mandan  rites  had  united. 

January  ^th.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  warm,  the 
mercury  being  23°  above  zero  ;  but  toward  evening  the 
wind  changed  to  northwest,  and  the  weather  became  cold. 
VVc  sent  some  hunters  down  the  river,  but  they  killed  only 
one  buffalo  and  a  wolf.  We  received  the  visit  of  Kago- 
hami,  who  is  very  friendly,  and  to  whom  we  gave  a  handker- 
chief and  two  files. 

'  "  This  day  I  discovered  how  the  Indians  keep  their  horses  during  the  winter. 
In  the  day  time  they  are  permitted  to  run  out  and  gather  what  they  can  ;  and  .it 
niglit  are  brought  into  the  lodges,  with  the  natives  themselves,  and  fed  on  tot- 
ton  wood  branches  :  and  in  this  way  are  kept  in  tolerable  case,"  Gass,  p.  68. 


i 


,1'^ 


I 


HMtliMOiicja'^ 


SATURNALIA   RISONTINA. 


221 


January  ^th*  We  had  high  and  boisterous  winds  last 
night  and  this  morning.  The  Indians  continue  to  purchase 
repairs  with  grain  of  different  kinds.  In  the  first  village 
there  ha^  been  a  buffalo-dance  for  the  last  three  nights, 
which  has  put  them  all  into  commotion,  and  the  description 
Wi.icli  we  received  from  those  of  the  party  who  visited  the 
village,  3!.J  from  other  sources,  is  not  a  little  ludicrous. 

The  buffalo-dance  is  an  institution  originally  intended  for 
the  benefit  of  the  old  men,  and  practiced  at  their  suggestion. 
When  buffalo  become  sca»"ce  they  send  a  man  to  harangue 
the  village,  declaring  that  the  game  is  far  off  and  that  a 
:east  is  necessary  to  bring  it  back;  if  the  village  be  disposed 
a  day  and  place  is  named  for  the  celebration.  At  the 
appointed  hour  the  old  men  arri'-e  and  seat  themselves 
cross-legged  on  skins,  round  a  fire  in  the  middle  of  the 
lodge,  with  a  sort  of  doll  or  small  image,  dressed  like  a 
female,  placed  betore  them.  The  young  men  bring  with 
them  a  platter  of  provisions,  a  pipe  of  tobacco,  and  their 
wives,  whose  dress  on  this  occasion  is  only  a  robe  or  mantle 
loosely  thrown  round  the  body.  On  their  arrival  each 
youth  selects  the  old  man  whom  he  means  to  distinguish 
by  his  favor,  and  spreads  before  him  the  provisions,  after 
which  he  presents  the  pipe  and  smokes  wi.^'i 

Mox  senex  vir  simi'lacrum  parvae  puellae  ostensit.  Tunc 
egrediens  coetu,  jecit  {p.  /ji)  effigium  solo  et  superincum- 
bens,  senili  ardore  veneris  complexit.  Hoc  est  signum. 
Denique  uxor  e  turba  recessit,  et  jactu  corporis,  fovet  am- 
plexus  viri  solo  recubante.     Maritus  appropinquans  senex 


■*  "  I  employ  myself  Drawing  a  Connection  of  the  Contrey  from  what  infor- 
mation I  have  received,  "  /.  e.,  making  a  map  on  which  should  be  represented, 
from  Indian  and  other  information,  parts  not  charted  from  his  own  observations, 
in  ascending  the  Missouri  thus  far.  This  is  the  very  map  which  was  sent  to 
the  President,  Apr.  7th,  1805,  was  transmitted  by  Jefferson  to  Congress  in  his 
message  of  Feb.  19th,  iSofi,  and  was  preserved  in  the  archives  of  the  War  Depart- 
ment, but  never  published  till  Nov.  4th,  1887,  when  a  much  reduced  copy  appeared 
in  Sdence.  As  draughted  by  Nicho'as  King,  1806,  this  is  the  map  which  is  re 
peatedly  cited  in  the  present  edition  as  Lewis'  mapof  1806,  it  being  so  legended, 
as  will  be  seen  from  tht  full-sized  photographic  facsimile,  now  first  published. 


i! 


i 


i? 


322 


MANDAN   MEDICINE-DANCE. 


vir  dejecto  vultu,  et  honorem  et  dignitatem  ejus  conservare 
amplexu  uxoris  ilium  oravit.  Forsitan  imprimis  ille  refellit ; 
dehinc,  maritus  multis  precibus,  multis  lacrymis,  et  multis 
donis  vehementer  intercessit.  Tunc  senex  amator  perculsus 
misericordia,  tot  precibus,  tot  lacrymis,  et  tot  donis,  conju- 
gali  amplexu  submisit.  MuUum  ille  jactatus  est,  sed  debilis 
et  effoetus  senectute,  frustra  jactatus  est.  Maritus  interdum, 
stans  juxta,  gaudet  multum  honore,  et  ejus  dignitate  sic 
conservata.  Unus  nostrum  sodalium,  multum  al.icrior  et 
potentior  juventute,  hac  nocte  honorem  quatuor  maritoruna 
custodivit.     [Anglicfe,  Clericus  C  144,  145.] 

January  6th.  A  clear,  cold  morning  with  high  wind. 
We  caught  in  a  trap  a  large  gray  wolf,  and  last  night 
obtained  in  the  same  way  a  fox  which  had  for  s^me  time 
infested  the  neighborhood  of  the  fort.  Only  a  few  Indians 
visited  us  to-day. 

January  ytk.  The  weather  was  again  clear  and  cold,  with 
a  high  northwest  wind,  and  the  thermometer  at  sunrise 
22°  below  zero ;  the  river  fell  an  inch.  Shahaka,  the  Big 
White  chief,  dined  with  us,  and  gave  a  connected  sketch  of 
the  country  as  far  as  the  mountains.' 

January  S(/i.  The  wind  was  still  from  the  northwest,  the 
day  cold,  and  we  received  few  Indians  at  the  fort.  Besides 
the  buffalo-dance  we  have  just  described  there  is  another 
called  the  medicine-dance,  an  entertain:  .^nt  given  by  any 
person  desirous  of  doing  honor  to  his  medicine  or  genius. 
He  announces  that  on  such  a  day  he  will  sacrifice  his 
horses  or  other  property,  and  invites  the  young  females  of 
the  village  to  assist  in  rendering  homage  to  his  medicine  ; 
all  the  inhabitants  may  join  in  the  solemnity,  which  is  per- 
formed in  the  open  plain  and  by  daylight,  but  the  dance 
is  reserved  for  the  virgins,  or  at  least  the  unmarried  females, 
who  disdain   the   incumbrance  or  the  ornament  of  dress. 


°  "  As  far  as  the  high  [Rocky]  mountains  on  the  south  side  of  the  River 
Rejone  [Roche-jaune,  Yellowstone]  ...  I  continue  to  Draw  a  connected  plott 
from  the  information  of  Traders,  Indians  &  my  own  observations  and  ideas," 
Clark  C  146. 


:  -f'-*CiBfc-»^  ^ 


INDIAN   ENDURANCE  OF  COLD. 


223 


The  feast  (/>.  132)  is  opened  by  devoting  the  goods  of  the 
master  of  the  feast  to  his  medicine,  which  is  represented  by 
a  head  of  the  animal  itself,  or  by  a  medicine-bag  if  the 
deity  be  an  invisible  being.  The  young  women  then  begin 
the  dance,  in  the  intervals  of  which  each  will  prostrate  her- 
self before  the  assembly  o  challenge  or  reward  the  boldness 
of  the  youth,  who  are  often  tempted  by  feeling,  or  the  hope 
of  distinction,  to  achieve  the  adventure. 

January  gth.  The  weather  is  cold,  the  thermometer  at 
suniise  21  below  zero.  Kagohami  breakfasted  with  us, 
and  Captain  Clark  with  three  or  four  men  accompanied  him 
and  a  part)  of  Indians  to  hunt,  in  which  they  were  so  for- 
tanate  as  to  kill  a  number  of  buffalo.  But  they  were  incom- 
maxled  by  snow,  by  high  and  squally  winds,  and  by  extreme 
cold.  Several  of  the  Indians  came  to  the  fort  nearly 
frozen ;  others  are  missing,  and  we  are  uneasy  for  one  of 
our  men,  who  was  separated  from  the  rest  during  the  chase, 
and  has  not  returned. 

January  loth.  This  morning,  however,  he  came  back,  just 
as  we  were  sending  out  five  men  in  search  of  him.  The 
night  had  been  excessively  cold  ;  this  morning  at  sunrise  the 
mercury  stood  at  40^  below  zero,  or  72°  below  the  freezing- 
point.  He  had,  however,  made  a  fire  and  kept  himself 
tolerably  warm.  A  young  Indian,  about  13  years  of  age, 
also  came  in  soon  after.  His  father,  who  came  last  night 
to  inquire  after  him  very  anxiously,  had  sent  him  in  the 
afternoon  to  the  fort ;  he  was  overtaken  by  the  night,  and 
was  obliged  to  sleep  on  the  snow  with  no  covering  except 
a  pair  of  antelope-skin  moccasins  and  leggings,  and  a  bufYalo- 
robe.  His  feet  being  frozen,  we  put  them  into  cold  water, 
and  gave  him  every  attention  in  our  power.  About  the 
same  time  an  Indian  who  had  also  been  missing  returned  to 
the  fort.  Although  his  dress  was  very  thin,  and  he  had  slept 
on  the  snow  without  a  tire,  he  had  not  suffered  the  slightest 
inconvenience.  We  have  indeed  observed  that  tliese 
Indians  support  the  rigors  of  the  season  in  a  way  which  we 
had  hitherto  thought  (/>.  /jj)  impossible.     A  more  pleasing 


I 


' 


224 


MANDAN   HUNTING   CUSTOMS. 


,       t 


reflection  occurred  at  seeing  the  warm  interest  which  the 
situation  of  tliese  two  persons  had  excited  in  the  village. 
The  boy  had  been  a  prisoner  and  adopted  from  charity, 
yet  the  distress  of  the  father  proved  that  he  felt  for  him  the 
tcnderest  affection.  The  man  was  a  person  of  no  distinc- 
tion, yet  the  whole  village  was  full  of  anxiety  for  his  safety, 
and  when  they  came  to  us,  borrowed  a  sleigh  to  bring  them 
home  with  ease,  if  they  survived,  or  to  carry  their  bodies,  if 
they  had  perished. 

January  wth.  We  dispatched  three  hunters  to  join  the 
same  number  whom  we  had  sent  below  about  seven  miles  to 
hunt  elk.  Like  that  of  yesterday,  the  weather  to-day  was 
cold  and  clear,  the  thermometer  standing  at  38"  below 
zero.  Poscopsahe  and  Shotahawrora  visited  us,  and  passed 
the  night  at  the  fort. 

January  \2th.  The  weather  continues  very  cold,  the 
mercury  at  sunrise  being  20°  below  zero.  Three  of  the 
hunters  returned,  having  killed  three  elk. 

January  xyh.  We  have  a  continuation  of  clear  weather 
and  the  cold  has  increased,  the  mercury  having  sunk  to  34° 
below  zero.  Nearly  one-half  of  the  Mandan  nation  passed 
down  the  river  to  hunt  for  several  days.  In  these  excursions, 
men,  women,  and  children,  with  their  dogs,  all  leave  the 
village  together,  and  after  discovering  a  spot  convenient  for 
the  game,  fi.x  their  tents  ;  all  the  family  bear  their  part  in  the 
labor,  and  the  game  is  equally  divided  among  the  families  of 
the  tribe.  When  a  single  hunter  returns  from  the  chase  with 
more  than  is  necessary  for  his  own  immediate  consumption, 
the  neighbors  are  entitled  by  custom  to  a  share  of  it  ;  the  y  do 
not,  however,  ask  for  it,  but  send  a  squaw,  who,  without  ~y. 
ing  anything,  sits  down  by  the  door  of  the  lodge  till  the  master 
understands  the  hint  and  gives  her  gratuitously  a  part  for  her 
family.  Chaboneau,  who  with  one  man  had  gone  to  some 
lodges  of  IVIinnetarces  near  Turtle  mountain  [on  the  Little 
Mo.  R.],  returned  with  their  faces  much  frost-bitten.  They 
had  (/>.  15^)  been  about  90  miles  distant,  and  procured  from 
the  inhabitants  some  meat  and  grease,  with  which  they  loaded 


4j. 


i 


1 
i 


UNFRIENDLY   REPORTS,  AND   THEIR   REFUTATION.      225 

the  horses.  He  informs  us  that  the  agents  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  at  that  place  had  been  endeavoring  to  make 
unfavorable  impressions  witli  regard  to  us  on  the  mind  of 
the  great  chief,  and  that  the  Northwest  Company  intended 
building  a  fort  there.  The  great  chief  had  in  consequence 
spoken  slightingly  of  the  Americans,  but  said  that  if  we 
would  give  him  our  great  flag  he  would  come  and  see  us. 

January  \^th.  The  Mandans  continued  to  pass  down  the 
river  on  their  hunting-party,  and  were  joined  by  six  of  our 
men  [Sergeant  Pryor  and  five  privates].  One  of  those 
sent  on  Thursday  returned  with  information  that  one  of  his 
companions  [VVhitehouse]  had  his  feet  so  badly  frost-bitten 
that  he  could  not  walk  home.  In  their  excursion  they  had 
killed  a  buffalo,  a  wolf,  two  porcupines,  and  a  white  hare." 
The  \veather  was  more  moderate  to-day,  the  mercury  being 
at  16°  below  zero,  and  the  wind  from  the  S.E.  We  had, 
however,  some  snow,  after  which  it  remained  cloudy. 

January  i^th.  The  morning  is  much  warmer  than  ycstcr- 
day,  and  the  snow  oegins  to  melt,  though  the  wind,  after 
bemg  for  some  time  from  the  S.E.,  suddenly  shifted  to  the 
N.W.  Between  12  and  3  o'clock  a.  m.  there  was  a  total 
eclipse  of  the  moon,  from  which  we  obtained  a  part  of  the 
observation '  necessary  for  ascertaining  the  longitude. 

We  were  visited  by  four  of  the  most  distinguished  men  of 
the  Minnetarees,  to  whom  we  showed  marked  attentions  as 
we  knew  that  they  had  been  taught  to  entertain  strong  preju- 
dices against  us ;  these  we  succedeed  so  well  in  removing, 
that  when  in  the  morning, 

January  i6t/i,  about  30  Mandans,  among  whom  six  were 
chiefs,  came  to  see  us.  the  Minnetarees  reproached  them 
with  their  falsehoods,  declaring  that  they  were  bad  men  and 
ought  to  hide  themselves.  They  had  told  the  Minnetarees 
that  we  would  kill  them  if  they  came  to  the  fort  ;  yet  on 

'Lepuscampeslris.  which  in  this  latitude  turns  white  in  winter,  like  Z  am.ri- 
canns,  the  American  varying  hare. 


1^ 


M6 


A  GENEROUS  AND   SENSIULE  YOUNG  CHIEF. 


the  contrary  they  had  spent  a  ni{jht  there  and  been  (/.  755) 
treated  with  kindness  by  the  whites,  who  had  smoked  with 
them  and  danced  for  their  amusement.  Kagohami  vis- 
ited us  and  brouglit  us  a  httle  corn,  and  soon  afterward 
one  of  the  first  war-chiefs  of  the  Minnctarees  came,  accom- 
panied by  liis  squaw,  a  handsome  woman,  whom  he  was 
desirous  we  should  use  during  the  night.  He  favored  us 
with  a  more  acceptable  present,  a  draft  of  the  Missouri  in 
his  manner,  and  informed  us  of  his  intention  to  go  to  war  in 
the  spring  against  the  Snake  Indians.  We  advised  him  to 
reflect  seriously  before  he  committed  ..le  peace  of  his  nation 
to  the  hazard  of  war ;  to  look  back  on  the  numerous  nations 
whom  war  had  destroyed  ;  that  if  he  wished  his  nation  to  be 
happy,  he  should  cultivate  peace  and  intercourse  with  all  his 
neighbors,  by  which  means  they  would  procure  more  horses 
and  increase  in  numbers ;  and  that  if  he  went  to  war  he 
would  displease  his  great  father,  the  President,  and  forfeit 
his  protection.  We  added  that  we  had  spoken  thus  to  all 
the  tribes  whom  we  had  met ;  that  they  had  all  opened  their 
ears,  and  that  the  President  would  compel  those  who  did  not 
voluntarily  listen  to  his  advice.  Although  a  young  man  of 
only  26  years  of  age,  this  discourse  seemed  to  strike  him. 
He  observed  that  if  it  would  be  displeasing  to  us  he  would 
not  go  to  war,  since  he  had  horses  enough,  and  that  he  would 
advise  all  the  nation  to  remain  at  home  until  we  had  seen 
the  Snake  Indians,  and  discovered  whether  their  intentions 
were  pacific.  The  party  who  went  down  with  the  horse  for 
the  man  who  was  frost-bitten  returned,  and  we  are  glad  to 
find  his  complaint  not  so  serious. 

January  ip/i.  The  day  was  very  windy  from  the  north  ; 
the  morning  clear  and  cold,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise 
being  at  zero.     Wc  had  several  Indians  with  us. 

January  \^tJi.  The  weather  is  fine  and  moderate.  Messrs. 
Laroche  and  M'Kenzie,  two  of  the  Northwest  Company's 
traders,  visited  us  with  some  of  the  Minnctarees.  In  the 
afternoon  two  of  our  hunters  returned,  having  killed  four 
[deer,  four]  wolves  and  a  blaireau  [badger]. 


l-^ 


MONOTONY   AT   MANDAN. 


227 


(/.  I j^  January  \c)th.  Another  cloudy  day.  The  two 
trailers  set  out  r)ii  their  return,  and  we  sent  two  men  with 
tlic  horses  30  miles  below  to  the  hunting-camp. 

January  20th.  The  day  fair  and  cold.  A  number  of 
Indians  visit  us  with  corn  to  exchange  for  articles  and  to 
jiay  for  repairs  to  their  household  utensils.' 

January  21  s(.  The  weather  was  fine  and  moderate.  The 
hunters  all  returned,  having  killed  during  their  absence  three 
elk,  four  deer,  two  porcupines,  a  fox,  and  a  hare. 

January  22(1.  The  cold  having  moderated  and  the  day 
being  pleasant,  we  attempted  to  cut  the  boats  out  of  the  ice; 
but  at  the  distance  of  eight  inches  came  to  water,  under 
which  the  ice  became  three  feet  thick,  so  that  we  were 
obliged  to  desist. 

January  23^/.  The  cold  weather  returned,  the  mercury 
having  sunk  2°  below  zero,  and  the  snow  fell  four  inches 
deep. 

January  24///.  The  day  was  colder  than  any  we  have 
had  lately,  the  thermometer  being  at  12°  below  zero.  The 
hunters  whom  we  sent  out  returned  unsuccessful,  and  the 
rest  were  occupied  in  cutting  wood  to  make  charcoal. 

January  25/'//.  The  thermometer  was  at  25°  below  zero, 
the  wind  from  the  N.W.  and  the  day  fair,  so  that  the  men 
were  employed  in  preparing  coal  and  cutting  the  boats  out 
of  the  ice.  A  band  of  Assiniboins  headed  by  their  chief, 
called  by  the  French  ["  Fils  de  Petit  Veau,"  Clark  C  156, 
or]  Son  of  the  Little  Calf,  have  arrived  at  the  villages. 

January  26th.     A  fine  warm  day.     A  number  of  Indians 


Tt 


ti« 


"  "  I  went  up  with  one  of  the  men  to  the  villages.  They  tre.ited  us  friendly 
and  gave  us  victuals.  After  we  were  done  eating  they  presented  a  bowlful  to 
a  buffaloe  head,  saying  'eat  th.at.'  Their  superstitious  credulity  is  so  great  that 
they  believe  by  using  the  head  well  the  living  buffaloe  will  come  and  that  they 
will  get  a  supply  of  meat,"  Gass,  p.  70. 

There  was  trouble  in  the  little  garrison  to-day.  On  the  19th  "Jussome's 
squar  "  left  him,  and  on  the  20th  Clark  C  155  explains  :  "  A  misunderstanding 
took  place  between  the  two  inturpeters  on  account  of  their  squars,  one  of  the 
squars  of  .Shabowner  being  sick,  I  ordered  my  servent  to  give  her  some  froot 
stewed  and  tee  at  dift.  times  which  was  the  cause  of  the  misundrst'd." 


■s>. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


d^. 


V 


^ii. 


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I.I 


us 


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25 

""IS 
2.0 


1.25 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  87a-4S03 


J 


i/. 


228      ATTEMPTS  TO   FREE  THE   BOATS  FROM   THE  ICE. 


^',1 


dine  with  us,  and  one  of  our  men  is  attacked  with  a  violent 
pleurisy. 

January  27th.  Another  warm  and  pleasant  day.  We 
again  attempted  to  get  the  boat  out  of  the  ice.  The  man 
who  has  the  pleurisy  was  blooded  and  sweated,  and  we  were 
forced  to  take  off  the  toes  of  the  young  Indian  who  was 
frost-bitten  some  time  since.  Our  interpreter  ["  Shabonoe  "  | 
returned  from  the  villages,  bringing  with  him  three  of  Mr. 
Larochc's  horses,  which  he  had  sent  in  order  to  keep  them 
out  of  the  way  of  the  Assiniboins,  who  are  very  much  dis- 
posed to  steal,  and  who  have  just  returned  to  their  camp. 

(a  157)  January  2%th.  The  weather  to-day  is  clear  .ind 
cold.  We  were  obliged  to  abandon  the  plan  of  cutting  the 
boat  through  the  ice,  and  therefore  made  another  attempt 
the  next  day, 

January  igth,  by  heating  a  quantity  of  stones  so  as  to 
warm  the  water  in  the  boat  and  thaw  the  surrounding  ice. 
But  in  this  too  we  were  disappointed,  as  all  the  stones,  on 
being  put  into  the  fire,  cracked  into  pieces.  The  weather 
is  warm  and  pleasant ;  the  man  with  the  pleurisy  is  recov- 
ering. 

January  yith.  The  morning  was  fair,  but  afterward 
became  cloudy.  Mr.  Laroche,  the  trader  from  the  North- 
west Company,  paid  us  a  visit,  in  hopes  of  being  able  to 
accompany  us  on  our  journey  westward  ;  but  this  proposal 
we  thought  it  best  to  decline. 

January  list.  It  snowed  last  night  and  the  morning  is 
cold  and  disagreeable,  with  a  high  wind  from  the  north- 
west. We  sent  five  hunters  dow  1  the  river.  Another  man 
[Drewyer]  is  taken  with  the  pleurisy. 

Friday,  February  ist.  A  cold,  windy  day.  Our  hunters 
returned,  having  killed  only  one  deer.  One  of  the  Min- 
netaree  war-chiefs,  a  young  man  named  Maubuksheaho- 
keah  or  Seeing  Snake,  came  to  see  us  and  procure  a  war- 
hatchct.  He  also  requested  that  we  would  suffer  him  to 
go  to  war  against  the  Sioux  and  Ricaras,  who  had  killed  a 
Mandan  some  time  ago;  this  we  refused,  for  reasons  which 


CAPTAIN  CLARK  GOES  ON   A   HUNT. 


229 


we  explained  to  him.  He  acknowledged  that  we  were 
I'ight,  and  promised  to  open  his  ears  to  our  counsels. 

February  2d.  The  day  is  fine.  Another  deer  was  killed. 
Mr.  Laroche,  who  has  been  very  anxious  to  go  with  us, 
left  the  fort  to-day,  and  one  of  the  squaws  of  the  Minne- 
taree  interpreter  is  taken  ill. 

February  ^d*  The  weather  is  again  pleasant.  Disap- 
pointed in  all  our  efforts  to  get  the  boats  free,  we  occupied 
ourselves  in  making  iron  spikes  so  as  to  prize  them  up  by 
means  of  long  poles. 

February  4///.  The  morning  fair  and  cold,  the  mercury 
at  sunrise  being  18°  below  zero,  and  the  wind  from  the  north- 
west, {p.  ij8)  The  stock  of  meat  which  we  Iiad  procured 
in  November  and  December  being  now  nearly  exhausted, 
it  became  necessary  to  renew  our  supply.  Captain  Clark 
therefore  took  18  men,'"  and  with  two  sleighs  and  three 
horses  descended  the  river  for  the  purpose  of  hunting, 
as  the  buffalo  have  disappeared  from  our  neighborhood, 
and  the  Indians  themselves  are  suffering  for  want  of 
meat.  Two  dec  vere  killed  [by  Shields]  to-day,  but  they 
were  very  lean. 

February  t^th.  A  p.  ..  :nt,  5'air  morning,  with  the  wind 
from  northwest.  A  number  of  the  Indians  come  with  corn 
for  the  blacksmith,  who  being  noiv  provided  with  coal  has 

'  At  this  date  in  the  Mandan  Codex  the  hand  chan);es.  Captain  Clark  is 
going  away  to  hunt,  and  Captain  Lewis  writes  the  journal  to  Feb.  1 3th  inclu- 
sive.    Feb.  3d  has  a  long  account  of  the  attempts  to  get  the  boats  out  of  the  ice. 

'"Sixteen  of  the  soldiers,  and  two  Frenchmen,  Lewis  C  i6a. 

Gass  was  on  this  trip,  which  he  thus  summarizes,  p.  71  :  "  4th.  A  tine  day. 
Captain  Clark  and  18  men  went  down  the  river  to  hunt.  We  proceeded  on  20 
miles  and  could  see  no  game.  Jth.  We  proceeded  on  to  some  Indian  camps 
and  there  we  killed  three  deer.  The  next  day  we  went  on  to  more  Indian 
camps  and  killed  some  deer.  On  the  7th.  we  camped  in  a  bottom  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Missouri  and  next  day  turned  out  tohunt.  We  killed  10  elk  and  18 
deer  and  remained  there  all  night.  On  the  gth.  we  built  a  p>en  to  secure  our 
game  from  the  wolves,  which  are  very  numerous  here  ,  and  in  the  evening  went 
further  down  and  encamped.  The  next  morning  we  set  out  on  our  return 
towards  the  fort ;  and  killed  some  elk  and  deer  on  our  way.  On  the  12th.  we 
arrived  at  the  fort ;  and  found  that  one  of  our  interpreter's  wives  [Sacajawea] 
had  in  our  absence  made  an  addition  to  our  number." 


T^^^ff  ™-iv^i^flff^Wfl((H^^ 


^ 


' 


230 


PECULIAR  MANDAN  BATTLE-AXES. 


H;if  ..;i 


[1:1: 


become  one  of  our  greatest  resources  for  procuring  grain. 
They  seem  particularly  attached  to  a  battle-ax,  of  a  very 
inconvenient  figure.  It  is  made  wholly  of  iron,  the  blade 
extremely  thin  and  from  seven  to  nine  inches  long ;  it  is 
sharp  at  tlie  point  and  five  or  six  inches  on  each  side, 
whence  the  edges  converge  toward  the  eye,  which  is 
circular  and  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  the  blade  itself 
being  not  more  than  an  inch  wide  ;  the  handle  is  straight, 
and  12  or  15  inches  long;  the  whole  weighs  about  a 
pound.  By  way  of  ornament,  the  blade  is  perforated  with 
several  circular  holes.  The  length  of  the  blade,  compared 
with  the  shortness  of  the  handle,  renders  it  a  weapon  of 
very  little  strength,  particularly  as  it  is  always  used  on 
horseback.  There  is  still,  however,  another  form  which  is 
even  worse,  tht  same  sort  of  handle  being  fixed  to  a  blade 
resembling  an  espontoon." 

February  6th.  The  morning  was  fair  and  pleasant,  the 
wind  N.W.  A  number  of  Indian  chiefs  visited  us,  but 
withdrew  after  we  had  smoked  with  them,  contrary  to  their 
custom ;  for,  after  being  once  introduced  into  our  apart- 
ment, they  are  fond  of  lounging  about  during  the  remainder 
of  the  day.  One  of  the  men  killed  three  antelopes.  Our 
blacksmith  has  his  time  completely  occupied,  so  great  is 
the  demand  for  utensils  of  different  kinds.  The  Indians 
are  particularly  fond  of  sheet-iron,  out  of  which  they  form 
points  for  arrows  and  instruments  for  scraping  hides  ;  and 
when  (/.  /5p)  the  blacksmith  cut  up  an  old  cambouse  "  of 

"  EspoHtooH  or  espoHton  is  a  rare  and  practically  obsolete  form  of  sponloon, 
a  word  itself  now  little  used.  The  implement  meant  is  the  half-pike,  a  sort  of 
halberd  formerly  used  by  certain  officers  of  the  Pritish  army.  Lewis  C  165 
gives  a  neat  figure  of  the  Mandan  implement,  which  is  fortunate,  as  the  text  is 
not  clear.  The  blade  is  I3  or  IJ  inches  long,  set  at  right  angles  in  a  handle 
of  the  same  length  ;  the  shape  of  the  blade,  viewed  flat,  is  a  narrow  lozenge 
(like  the  diamond  at  cards),  sharp  at  the  point,  the  other  end  eyed  to  receive 
the  handle ;  it  is  pierced  with  four  holes  set  in  the  same  diamond  figure,  and 
the  slant  of  the  two  sides  of  the  diamond  next  to  the  eyed  end  results  in  part  from 
nicking  off  from  each  edge  a  strip  of  the  metal  and  curlincr  this  strip  backward. 

'•  "  Sheet  iron  callaboos,"  interlined  "  camboosc,  s:ove,"  Lewis  C  i66.  Cam- 
boost  and  cambouse  are  rare  forms  of  caboose,  and  {his  from  the  Dutch  name  of 


' 


m^J' 


THE   BLACK  CAT'S  GOOD  CHARACTER. 


231 


metal,  we  obtained,  for  every  piece  of  four  inches  square, 
seven  or  eight  gallons  of  corn  from  the  Indians,  who  were 
delighted  at  the  exchange. 

February  jth.  The  morning  was  fair  and  much  warmer 
than  for  some  days,  the  thermometer  being  at  18"  above 
zero,  and  the  wind  from  the  S.E.  A  number  of  Indians 
continue  to  visit  us;  but  learning  that  the  interpreter's 
squaws  had  been  accustomed  to  unbar  the  gate  during  the 
night,  we  ordered  a  lock  put  on  it,  and  that  no  Indian 
should  remain  in  the  fort  all  night,  nor  any  persor  V- 
admitted  during  the  hours  when  the  gate  is  closed — \.i\dX 
is,  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  ^ 

February  St/i.  A  fair,  pleasant  morning,  with  S.E.  winds. 
Pocopsahe  came  down  to  the  fort  with  a  bow,  and  apolo- 
gized for  not  having  finished  a  shield  which  he  had  promised 
Captain  Lewis,  and  which  the  weather  had  prevented  him 
from  completing."  This  chief  possesses  more  firmness,  intel- 
ligence, and  integrity  than  any  Indian  of  this  country,  and 
he  might  be  rendered  highly  serviceable  in  our  attempts  to 
civilize  the  nation.  He  mentioned  that  the  Mandans  are 
very  much  in  want  of  meat,  and  that  he  himself  had  not 
tasted  any  for  several  days.  To  this  distress  they  are  often 
reduced  by  their  own  improvidence,  or  by  their  unhappy 
situation.  Their  principal  article  of  food  is  bufTalo-meat, 
their  corn,  beans,  and  other  grain  being  reserved  for  summer, 
or  as  a  last  resource  against  what  they  constantly  dread,  an 
attack  from  the  Sioux,  who  drive  off  the  game  and  confine 
them  to  their  villages.  The  same  fear  also  prevents  their 
going  out  to  hunt  in  small  parties  to  relieve  their  occasional 
wants,  so  that  the  buffalo  is  generally  obtained  in  large  quan- 
tises and  wasted  by  carelessness. 

a  ship's  galley,  or  cook's  room  aboard  a  vessel ;  but  it  is  not  related  to  ea/a- 
boose,  which  latter  word  is  supposed  to  be  of  Arabic  derivation,  and  means  a 
slave-pen.  The  article  which  proved  so  valuable  a  resource  was  simply  an  old 
sheet  iron  cooking-stove,  which  had  been  burnt  out  in  ascending  the  Missouri. 
»  "  I  gave  him  som  small  shot  6  fishing-hooks  and  2  yards  of  ribbon  his 
squaw  also  presented  me  with  3  pair  of  mockersons  for  which  in  return  I  gave  a 
small  lookingglass  and  a  couple  of  nedles,"  Lewis  C  167. 


r 


r.i! 


332 


BIRTH   OF  SACAJAWEA'S   INFANT. 


I    '\: 


February  <)th.^*  The  morning  was  fair  and  pleasant,  the 
wind  from  the  S.E.  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  from  the  Northwest 
Company's  establishment,  visited  us. 

Sunday,  February  lot/t.  A  slight  snow  fell  in  the  course 
of  the  night,  the  morning  was  cloudy,  and  the  northwest 
wind  blew  so  {/>.  160)  high  that  although  the  thermometer 
was  18"  above  zero,  the  day  was  cooler  than  yesterday,  when 
it  was  only  10*  above  the  same  point.  Mr.  M'Kenzie  left 
us,  and  Chaboneau  returned  with  the  information  that  our 
horses  loaded  with  meat  were  below,  but  could  not  cross  the 
ice,  not  being  shod. 

February  wth.  We  sent  down  a  party  with  sleds,  to 
relieve  the  horses  from  their  loads ;  the  weather  fair  and  cold, 
with  a  N.W.  wind.  About  five  o'clock  one  of  the  wives  of 
Chaboneau  was  delivered  of  a  boy  ;  '*  this  being  her  first  child 
slie  was  suffering  considerably,  when  Mr.  Jessaume  told 
Captain  Lewis  that  he  had  frequently  administered  to  persons 
in  her  situation  a  small  dose  of  the  rattle  of  the  rattlesnake, 
which  had  never  failed  to  hasten  the  delivery.  Having  some 
of  the  rattle,  Captain  Lewis  gave  it  to  Mr.  Jessaume,  who 
crumbled  two  of  the  rings  of  it  between  his  fingers,  and  mix- 
ing it  with  a  small  quantity  of  water  gave  it  to  her.  What 
effect  it  may  really  have  had  it  might  be  difficult  to  deter- 
mine, but  Captain  Lewis  was  informed  that  she  had  not  taken 
it  more  than  ten  minutes  before  the  delivery  took  place. 

February  \2th.  The  morning  is  fair  though  cold,  the 
mercury  being  14*  below  zero,  the  wind  from  the  S.E. 
About  four  o'clock  the  horses  were  brought  in  much  fatigued  ; 
on  giving  them  meal  bran  moistened  with  water  they  would 

'■•  "This  evening  a  man  by  the  name  of  [Thomas  P.  ]  Howard  whom  I  had  given 
permission  to  go  [to]  the  Mandane  village  returned  after  the  gate  was  shut  and 
reather  than  call  to  the  guard  to  h.ive  it  opened  scaled  the  works  .  .  .  Howard 
I  had  comitted  to  the  care  of  the  guard  with  a  determineation  to  have  him 
tryed  by  a  Courtmartial  for  this  offence.  This  man  is  an  old  soldier  which  still 
hightens  this  offince,"  Lewis  C  168. 

"  "  A  fine  boy,"  Lewis C  170  says  of  Sacajawea's  baby.  This  little  volunteer 
recruit  joined  the  Expedition,  and  was  brought  back  safe  from  the  Pacific  coast 
by  one  of  the  best  of  mothers. 


>    11 


MANDAN   PONIES— THE   HUNTERS   RETURN. 


233 


not  eat  it,  but  preferred  the  bark  of  the  Cottonwood,  which, 
as  already  observed,  forms  their  principal  food  during  the 
winter.  The  horses  of  the  Mandans  are  so  often  stolen  by 
the  Sioux,  Ricaras,  and  Assiniboins,  that  the  invariable  rule 
now  is  to  put  the  horses  every  night  in  the  same  lodge  with 
the  family.  In  the  summer  they  ramble  on  the  plains  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  camp  and  feed  on  the  grass,  but  during  cold 
weather  the  squaws  cut  down  the  Cottonwood  trees  as  they 
are  wanted,  and  the  horses  feed  on  the  boughs  and  bark  of 
the  tender  branches,  which  are  also  brought  into  the  lodges 
at  night  and  placed  near  ther.i.  These  animals  are  very 
severely  treated ;  for  whole  days  they  are  pursuing  the 
buffalo,  or  burdened  with  the  fruits  of  the  chase,  during 
which  (/.  161)  they  scarcely  ever  taste  food,  and  at  night 
return  to  a  scanty  allowance  of  wood ;  yet  the  spirit  of 
this  valuable  animal  sustains  him  through  all  these  diffi- 
culties,  and  he  is  rarely  deficient  either  in  flesh  or  vigor. 

February  l^tA.'*  The  morning  was  cloudy,  the  thermom- 
eter at  2°  below  zero,  the  wind  from  the  southeast.  Cap- 
tain Clark  returned  last  evening  with  all  his  hunting 
party.  During  their  excursion  they  had  killed  40  deer,  3 
buffalo,  and  16  elk ;  but  most  of  the  game  was  too  lean  for 
use,  and  the  wolves,  who  regard  whatever  lies  out  at  night 
as  their  own,  had  appropriated  a  large  part  of  it.  When 
he  left  the  fort  on  the  4///  instant,  he  descended  on  the  ice 
22  miles  to  New  Mandan  island,  near  some  of  the  old 
villages,  and  camped,  having  killed  nothing,  and  being 
therefore  without  food  for  the  night. 

Early  on  the  5///,  the  hunters  went  out  and  killed  two 
buffalo  and  a  deer,  but  the  last  only  could  be  used,  the 
others  being  too  lean.  After  breakfast  they  proceeded 
down  to  an  Indian  lodge,  and  hunted  during  the  day.  The 
next  morning,  the  6///,  they  camped  44  miles  from  the  fort 
on  a  sand-point  near  the  mouth  of  a  creek  on  the  south- 

"  Beginning  in  Lewis'  hand,  C  173,  but  continued  by  Clark,  who  enters  at 
this  date  the  following  account  of  his  hunting-trip,  C  174-77,  greatly  abridged 
in  the  text,  and  then  resumes  the  regular  order  of  the  codex. 


234        DIARY  OF  THE   HUNT— ATTACKED  BY  SIOUX. 

west  side,  which  they  call  Hunting  creek,  and  during  this 
and  the  following  day  hunted  through  all  the  adjoining 
plains  with  much  success,  having  killed  a  number  of  deer 
and  e'.k.  On  the  %th,  the  best  of  the  meat  was  sent  by  the 
horses  to  the  fort ;  such  parts  of  the  remainder  as  were  fit 
for  use  were  brouglit  to  a  point  of  the  river  three  miles 
below,  and  after  the  bones  were  taken  out,  were  secured  in 
pen?  built  of  logs,  so  as  to  keep  off  the  wolves,  ravens,  and 
magpies,  which  are  very  numerous,  and  constantly  disap* 
point  the  hunter  of  his  prey;  they  then  went  to  the  low 
grounds  near  the  Chisshetaw  [Heart]  river,  where  they 
camped,  but  saw  nothing  except  some  wolves  on  the  hills, 
and  a  number  of  buffalo  too  poor  to  be  worth  hunting.  The 
next  morning,  the  9///,  as  there  was  no  game  and  it  would 
have  been  inconvenient  to  send  back  60  miles  to  the  fort, 
they  returned  up  the  river ;  (/.  162)  for  three  days  they 
hunted  along  the  banks  and  plains,  and  reached  the  fort  in 
the  evening  of  the  12///,  much  fatigued,  having  walked  30 
miles  that  day  on  the  ice,  and  through  the  snow  in  many 
places  knee-deep,  their  moccasins  too  being  nearly  worn 
out.  The  only  game  which  they  saw,  besides  what  is 
mentioned,  was  some  grouse  on  the  sand-bars  in  the  river. 

February  14///.  Last  night  the  snow  fell  three  inches  deep; 
the  day  was,  however,  fine,  rour  men  were  dispatched 
with  sleds  and  three  horses  to  bring  up  the  meat  which  had 
been  collected  by  the  hunters.  They  returned,  however, 
with  the  intelligence  that  about  21  miles  below  the  fort  a 
party  of  upward  of  100  men,  whom  they  supposed  to  be 
Sioux,  ruslied  on  them,  cut  the  traces  of  the  sleds,  and 
carried  off  two  of  the  horses,  the  third  being  given  up  by 
intercession  of  an  Indian  "  who  seemed  to  possess  some 
authority  over  them ;  they  also  took  away  two  of  the  men's 


m 


it  li 


"  "  Probably  more  thro'  fear  of  himself  or  some  of  the  Indians  being  killed 
by  our  men  who  were  not  disposed  to  he  Robed  of  all  they  had  tamely,"  Clark 
C  178.  This  party  was  led  by  George  Drewyer,  the  best  hunter  and  shot  of  all 
the  men.  But  four  men  had  no  show  whatever  against  "  105  "  Indians,  and 
were  lucky  to  get  off  alive. 


>     ! 


CAl'TAIN  LEWIS  GOES   IN   PURSUIT  OF  THE  SIOUX.      235 

knives  and  a  tomahawk,  which  last,  however,  they  returned. 
We  sent  up  to  the  Mandans  to  inform  them  of  it,  and  to 
know  wliether  any  of  them  would  join  a  party  which 
intended  to  pursue  the  robbers  in  the  morning.  About 
twelve  o'clock  two  of  their  chiefs  came  down  and  said  that 
all  the  young  men  were  out  hunting,  and  that  there  were 
few  guns  in  the  village.  Several  Indians,  however,  armed, 
some  with  bows  and  arrows,  some  with  spears  and  battle- 
axes,  and  two  with  fusils,"  accompanied  Captain  Lewis, 
who  set  out, 

February  \%th,  at  sunrise,  with  24  men.  The  morning 
was  fine  and  cool,  the  thermometer  being  at  16°  below 
zero.  In  the  course  of  the  day  one  of  the  M*andan  chiefs 
returned  from  Captain  Lewis'  party,  his  eyesight  having 
become  so  bad  that  he  could  not  proceed.  At  this 
season  of  the  year  the  reflection  from  the  ice  and  snow 
is  so  intense  as  to  occasion  almost  total  blindness.  This 
complaint  is  very  common  ;  the  general  ren:edy  is  to  sweat 
the  part  affected  by  holding  the  face  over  a  hot  stone,  and 
receiving  the  fumes  from  snow  thrown  on  it.  A  large  red 
fox  [Vulpcs  tnacrurus]  was  killed  to-day. 

{p.  i6j)  February  16//1.  The  morning  was  warm,  the  mer- 
cury  at  ^2"  above  zero,  the  weather  cloudy.  Several  of  the 
Indians  who  went  with  Captain  Lewis  returned,  as  did  also 
one  of  our  men  [Howard],  whose  feet  had  been  frost-bitten. 

February  17///.  The  weather  continued  as  yesterday, 
though  in  the  afternoon  it  became  fair.  Shotawhorora  and 
his  son  came  to  see  us,  with  about  30  pounds  of  dried  buffalo 
meat  and  some  tallow. 

February  iSt/i.  The  morning  was  cloudy  with  some  snow, 
but  in  the  latter  part  of  the  day  it  cleared  up.  Mr.  M'Ken- 
zie,  who  had  spent  yesterday  at  the  fort,  now  left  us  Our 
stock  of  meat  is  exhausted,  so  that  we  must  confine  ourselves 
to  vegetable  diet,  at  least  till  the  return  of  the  party.  For 
this,  however,  we  are  at  no  loss,  since  both  on  this  and  the 
following  day, 

'""  Fuzees,"  Clark  C  179  ;  old-fashioned  flint-lock  muskets. 


1 


<i, 


236     DEATH  OF  AN  AGED  MANDAN— MEDICINE-STONES. 

February  \Cfth,  our  blacksmith  got  large  quantities  of 
corn  from  the  Indians,  who  came  in  great  numbers  to  see  us. 
The  weather  was  fair  and  warm,  the  wind  from  the  south. 

February  20///.  The  day  was  delightfully  fine ;  the  mer- 
cury being  at  sunrise  2°,  and  in  the  course  of  the  day  22°,  above 
zero,  the  wind  southerly.  Kagohami  came  down  to  see  us 
early.  His  village  is  afflicted  by  the  death  of  one  of  their 
eldest  men,  who  from  his  account  to  us  must  have  seen  120 
winters.  Just  as  he  was  dying,  he  requested  his  grandchil- 
dren to  dress  him  in  his  best  robe  when  he  was  dead,  and 
then  carry  him  on  a  hill  and  seat  him  on  a  stone,  with  his  face 
down  the  river  toward  their  old  villages,  that  he  might  go 
straight  to  his  brother,  who  had  passed  before  him  to  the 
ancient  village  underground.  We  have  seen  a  number  of 
Mandans  who  have  lived  to  a  great  age  ;  chiefly,  however,  the 
men,  whose  robust  exercises  fortify  the  body,  while  the  labori- 
ous occupations  of  the  women  shorten  their  existence. 

February  2\st.  We  had  a  continuation  of  the  same  pleas- 
ant weather.  Oheenaw  and  Shahaka  came  down  to  see  us, 
and  mentioned  that  several  of  their  countrymen  had  (/.  164) 
gone  to  consult  their  medicine-stone  as  to  the  prospects  for 
the  following  year.  This  medicine-stone  is  the  great  oracle 
of  the  Mandans,  and  whatever  it  announces  is  believed  with 
implicit  confidence.  Every  spring,  and  on  some  occasions 
during  the  summer,  a  deputation  visits  the  sacred  spot, 
where  there  is  a  thick  porous  stone  20  feet  in  circumference, 
with  a  smooth  surface.  Having  reached  the  place,  the  cere- 
mony of  smoking  to  it  is  performed  by  the  deputies,  who 
alternately  take  a  whiff  themselves  and  then  present  the  pipe 
to  the  stone ;  after  this  they  retire  to  an  adjoining  wood  for 
the  night,  during  which  it  may  be  safely  presumed  that  all 
the  embassy  do  not  sleep ;  and  in  the  morning  they  read 
the  destinies  of  the  nation  in  the  white  marks  on  the  stone, 
which  those  who  made  them  are  at  no  loss  to  decipher.  The 
Minnetarees  have  a  stone  of  a  similar  kind,  which  has  the 
same  influence  over  the  nation.'" 

'•On  the  subject  of  the  Memahopa,  or  Minnetaree  holy-stone,  see  Say  in 


w'liL'iWWBWM'U''""' 


T 


UNSUCCESSFUL   PURSUIT  OF  THE  SIOUX. 


237 


Captain  Lewis  returned  from  his  excursion  in  pursuit  of 
the  Indians.  On  reaching  the  place  where  the  Sioux  had 
stolen  our  horses,  they  found  only  one  sled,  and  several  pairs 
of  moccasins  which  were  recognized  to  be  those  of  the  Sioux. 
The  party  then  followed  the  Indian  tracks  till  they  reached 
two  old  lodges  where  they  slept,  and  the  next  morning  pur- 
sued the  course  of  the  river  till  they  reached  some  Indian 
camps,  where  Captain  Clark  passed  the  night  some  time  ago, 
and  which  the  Sioux  had  now  set  on  fire,  leaving  a  little  corn 
near  the  place  in  order  to  induce  a  belief  that  they  were 
Ricaras.  From  this  point  the  Sioux  tracks  left  the  river 
abruptly  and  crossed  into  the  plains ;  but  perceiving  that 
there  was  no  chance  of  overtaking  them.  Captain  Lewis  went 
down  to  the  pen  where  Captain  Clark  had  left  some  meat, 
which  he  found  untouched  by  the  Indians.  He  then  hunted 
in  the  low  grounds  on  the  river,  till  he  returned  with  about 
3,000  pounds  of  meat,  some  drawn  on  a  sled  by  15  of  the 
men,  and  the  rest  on  horseback ;  having  killed  36  deer,  14 
elk,  and  one  wolf. 

(p.  165)  February  22d.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  a 
little  snow  fell,  but  in  the  afternoon  the  weather  became 
fair.  We  were  visited  by  a  number  of  Indians,  among 
whom  was  Shotawhorora,  a  chief  of  much  consideration 
among  the  Mandans,  although  by  birth  a  Ricara. 

February  23</.  The  day  is  warm  and  pleasant.  Having 
worked  industriously  yesterday  and  all  this  morning,  we 
were  enabled  to  disengage  one  of  the  periogues  and  haul 
it  on  shore,  and  also  nearly  to  cut  out  the  second.  The 
father  of  the  boy  whose  foot  had  been  so  badly  frozen,  and 
whom  we  had  now  cured,  came  to-day  and  carried  him 
home  in  a  sleigh. 

February  24/A.  The  weather  is  again  fine.  We  suc- 
ceeded   in    loosening   the    second    periogue    and    barge,* 

Long's  Exp.,  T.  1833,  London  ed.,  pp.  252,  353,  where  L.  and  C.  are  cited. 
See  also  Matthews,  p.  50,  where  he  renders  Hidatsan  Mihopash,  and  Mandan 
Mihopinish. 

""  "  With  the  assistance  of  great  prises  we  lousened  her,  and  turned  the 
second  perogue  up  on  the  ice,  ready  to  draw  out,  on  lousening  the  boat  from 


I 


1 


I 


238     RELKASE  OK  THE   BOATS— KATTfESNAKK-ROOTS. 

tliough  wc  found  a  leak  in  the  latter.    The  whole  of  the 
next  day, 

February  25///,  we  were  occupied  in  drawing  up  the 
boat.«  on  the  bank.  The  smallest  one  we  carried  there 
with  no  difficulty,  but  the  barge  was  too  heavy  for  our  elk- 
skin  ropes,  which  constantly  broke.  We  were  visited  by 
Orupsehara  or  Black  Moccasin,  and  several  other  chiefs, 
who  brought  us  presents  of  meat  on  the  backs  of  their 
squ.^ws,  and  one  of  the  Minnetarees  requested  and  obtained 
perinission  for  himself  and  his  two  wives  to  remain  all  night 
in  the  fort.     The  day  was  exceedingly  pleasant. 

February  26///.  The  weatiier  is  again  fine.  By  great 
labor  during  the  day  we  got  all  the  boats  on  the  bank  by 
sunset — an  operation  which  attracted  a  great  number  of 
Indians  to  the  fort. 

February  27///.  The  weather  continues  fine.  All  of  us 
were  employed  in  preparing  tools  to  build  boats  for  our 
voyage,  as  we  find  that  small  periogues  will  be  much  more 
convenient  than  the  barge  in  ascending  the  Missouri. 

February  28///.  The  day  is  clear  and  pleasant.  Sixteen 
men  were  sent  out  to  examine  the  country  for  trees  suitable 
for  boats,  and  were  successful  in  finding  them.  Two  of  the 
Northwest  Company's  traders  arrived  with  letters.  They 
had  (/».  166)  likewise  a  root"  which  is  used  for  the  cure  of 
persons  bitten  by  mad  dogs,  snakes,  and  other  venomous 
animals.  It  is  found  on  high  grounds  and  the  sides  of  hills ; 
the  mode  of  using  it  is  to  scarify  the  wound  and  apply  to  it 
an  inch  or  more  of  the  chewed  or  pounded  root,  which  is  to 
be  renewed  twice  a  day ;  the  patient  must  not,  however, 
chew  or  swallow  any  of  the  root,  as  an  inward  application 
might  be  rather  injurious  than  beneficial. 

the  ice  some  of  the  corking  [calking]  drew  out  which  caused  her  to  Leake  for  a 
few  minits  untill  we  Oescovered  the  Leake  &  stoped  it,"  Clark  C  185. 

"  "  Root  and  top  of  a  plant,  presented  by  Mr.  Haney,  for  the  Cure  of  Mad 
Diigs,  Snakes  i&c,"  Clark  C  1S7.  But  what  was  the  specific  for  these  afflicted 
creatures?  The  relation  is  universal  tradition  in  the  west;  I  have  heard  it 
around  the  camp  fire  from  the  British  to  the  Mexican  boundary  ;  and  everybody 
knows  the  plant,  except  the  botanists.  On  primitive  I'aracelsian  principles,  it 
should  be  the  rattle-box,  or  rattle-wort,  a   species  of  Crjijhuia,  whose  ripe 


'r 


NEWS  TO   MANDAN   BY    MAIL. 


539 


Mr.  Gravelines,  with  two  Frenchmen  and  two  Ittdians, 
arrived  from  the  Ricara  nation,  with  letters  from  Mr. 
Anthony  Tabeau.  This  last  gentleman  informs  us  that  the 
Ricaras  express  their  determination  to  follow  our  advice  to 
remain  at  peace  with  the  Mandaiis  and  Minnetarecs,  whom 
they  are  desirous  of  visiting;  they  also  wish  to  know 
whether  these  nations  would  permit  the  Ricaras  to  settle 
near  them  and  form  a  league  against  their  common  ene- 
mies, the  Sioux.  On  mentioning  this  to  the  Mandans  they 
agreed  to  it,  observing  that  they  always  desired  to  cultivate 
friendship  with  the  Ricaras,  and  that  the  Ahnahaways  and 
Minnctarees  have  the  same  friendly  views. 

Mr.  Gravelines  state?  that  the  band  of  Tetons  whom  we 
had  seen  was  well-disposed  toward  us,  owing  to  the  influ- 
ence of  their  chief,  Black  Buffalo  ;  but  that  the  three  upper 
bands  of  Tetons,  with  the  Sisatoons  and  the  Yanktons  of 
the  North,  mean  soon  to  attack  the  Indians  in  this  quarter, 
with  a  resolution  to  put  to  death  every  white  man  they 
encounter.  Moreover,  that  Mr.  Cameron  of  St.  Peter's 
has  armed  the  Sioux  against  the  Chippeways,  who  have 
lately  put  to  death  three  of  his  men.  The  men  who  had 
stolen  our  horses  we  found  to  be  all  Sioux,  who  after  com- 


n 


it 

it 
ipe 


seeds  rattle  in  hollow  pods,  and  should  therefore  be  good  for  rattlesnake-bites ; 
or  one  of  the  grape-ferns,  tiolrychiiim  virginianum ,  whose  fruit  resembles 
somewhat  the  rattles  of  those  reptiles.  There  are  certain  orchids,  as  Goodyera 
repcns,  called  rattlesnake-plantain.  The  fleabane,  baneberry,  or  black  cohosh, 
Ciniici/iiK'c  racemosa,  is  a  rattlesnake-herb.  Some  rattlesnake-masters  are 
eupatoriaceous  composite  plants  of  the  genus  Liatris,  as  L.  scariosa,  L.  sq.iar- 
rosa,  and  others,  called  button-snakeroot.  Other  composites,  related  to 
chicory  and  lettuce,  are  rattlesnake-roots,  as  Prenanthts  serptntaria,  in  high 
popular  repute  for  snake-bites,  and  cancers  too.  Yet  another  rattlesnake-weed 
of  the  order  Composite  is  Hieracium  t'tnenostim,  of  reputed  medicinal  virtues. 
In  the  West,  however,  if  you  should  require  your  old  scout  or  trapper  to  pro- 
duce you  a  genuine  "rattlesnake-master,"  it  would  probably  prove  to  be  a 
legruminous  plant  of  the  genus  Astragalus,  or  a  related  genus,  and  he  would  be 
likely  to  call  it  by  the  Spanish  name  golondrina.  There  is  no  natural  reason 
why  the  vegetable  kingdom  should  not  afford  an  antidote  to  certain  animal 
poisons,  nor  any  reason  why  only  one  plant  should  possess  such  properties ;  and 
I  doubt  that  the  belief  woi'ld  have  become  so  universal  without  !:ome  basis  of 
fact. 


240 


BOAT-BUILrTNG  AND   OTHER  OCCUPATIONS. 


I  I 


u 


i    !        J 


li  > 


mitting  the  outrage  went  to  the  Ricara  village,  where  they 
said  that  they  had  hesitated  about  killing  our  men  who 
were  with  the  horses,  but  that  in  future  they  would  put  to 
death  any  of  us  they  could,  as  we  were  "bad  medicines" 
and  deserved  to  be  killed.  The  Ricaras  were  displeased 
at  their  conduct,  and  (/.  16^)  refused  to  give  them  any- 
thing  to  eat,  which  is  deemed  the  greatest  act  of  hostility, 
short  of  actual  violence. 

Friday,  March  ist,  1805.  The  day  is  fine  and  the  whole 
party  is  engaged,  some  in  making  ropes  and  periogues, 
others  in  burning  coal  and  making  battle-axes  to  sell  for 
corn." 

March  2d.  Mr.  Laroche,"  one  of  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany's traders,  has  just  arrived  with  merchandise  from  the 
British  establishments  on  the  Assiniboin.  The  day  is 
fine,  and  the  river  begins  to  break  up  in  some  places,  the 
mercury  being  between  28°  and  36°  above  zero,  and  the 
vind  from  the  N.E.     We  were  visited  by  several  Indians. 

March  id.  The  weather  pleasant,  the  wind  from  the  E., 
with  clouds  ;  in  the  afternoon  the  clouds  disappeared  and 
the  wind  came  from  the  N.W.  The  men  are  all  employed 
in  preparing  the  boats ;  we  are  visited  by  Poscapsahe  and 

**  The  main  occupation  of  the  month  of  March  seems  to  have  been  making 
canoes  to  resume  the  voyage.  Gass  says,  p.  73,  thpt  the  party  of  16  who  went 
on  Feb.  23th,  about  six  miles  up  the  river,  camped  out  there  till  six  canoes  were 
made.  "  On  the  20th.  and  21st.  we  carried  them  to  the  river  about  a  mile  a'.id  a 
half  distant  :  There  I  remained  with  two  men  to  finish  them,  and  to  tak'<;  care 
of  them,  until  the  26th,  when  some  men  came  up  from  the  fort,  and  \ve  put  the 
canoes  into  the  water.  As  the  river  had  risen  there  was  some  water  betv/een  the 
ice  and  the  shore.  We  got  three  of  them  safe  to  the  fort ;  but  the  ice  breaking 
before  the  other  three  got  down,  so  filled  the  channel,  that  we  were  obliged  to 
carry  them  the  rest  of  the  way  by  land.  On  the  27th  we  put  one  of  the  canoes 
into  the  water  to  ascertain  what  weight  they  would  carry.  We  found  they 
would  not  carry  as  much  as  was  expected,  and  Captain  Lewis  agreed  to  take 
a  lar^e  periogue  along.  The  remainder  of  the  month  we  were  employed 
in  preparing  our  craft  for  a  renewal  of  our  voyage." 

"  "  Mr.  La  Rocque,  a  Clerk  of  the  NW  Company,"  Clark  C  189,  who 
informed  them  that  the  Northwest  and  "  X.  Y."  companies  had  lately  joined, 
and  that  Mr.  M'Tavish,  of  Montreal,  the  head  of  the  former  company,  was 
dead.     "X    Y."  was  the  cipher  name  of  a  cert<tin  rival  company. 


I 


SPRING  STILL  LAPPED   IN   WINTER. 


241 


A  flock  of  ducks  passed 


several  other  Indians  with  corn, 
up  the  river  to-day. 

March  4th.  A  cloudy  morning  with  N.W.  wind,  the 
latter  part  of  the  day  clear.  We  had  again  some  Indian 
visitors  with  a  small  present  of  meat.  The  Assiniboins, 
who  a  few  days  since  visited  the  Mandans,  returned  and 
attempted  to  take  horses  from  the  Minnetarees,  who  fired 
on  them  ;  a  circumstance  which  may  occasion  some  dis- 
turbance between  the  two  nations. 

March  ^th.  About  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  there 
was  a  slight  fall  of  snow,  but  the  day  became  clear  and 
pleasant,  with  the  mercury  40°  above  zero.  We  sent  down 
an  Indian  and  a  Frenchman  to  the  Ricara  villages,  with  a 
letter  to  Mr.  Tabeau  [Tabbou,  Clark  C  190]. 

March  6th.  The  day  was  cloudy,  and  smoky  in  con- 
sequence of  the  burning  of  the  plains  by  the  Minnetarees; 
they  have  set  all  the  neighboring  country  on  fire  in  order 
to  obtain  an  early  crop  of  grass  which  may  answer  for  the 
consumption  of  their  horses,  and  also  as  an  inducement  for 
the  buffalo  and  other  game  to  visit  it.  The  horses  stolen 
two  days  ago  by  the  Assiniboins  have  been  returned  to  the 
(/.  168)  Minnetarees.  Ohhaw,"  second  chief  of  the  lower 
Minnetaree  village,  came  to  see  us.  The  river  rose  a 
little  and  overran  the  ice,  so  as  to  render  the  crossing 
diflficult. 

March  7th.  The  day  was  somewhat  cloudy  and  colder 
than  usual ;  the  wind  from  the  southeast.  Shotawhorora 
visited  us  with  a  sick  child,  to  whom"  some  medicine  was 

'••  "  Oh-harh  or  the  Little  fox,"  Clark  C  igr  ;  where  Clark  adds  that  George 
Shannon  cut  his  foot  "  with  the  ads." 

"  "  To  whome  I  gave  some  of  rushes  pills,"  Clark  C  191.  Dr.  Rush's  pills 
were  in  vogue  in  those  days  ;  they  were  a  favorite  remedy  with  Captain  Clark, 
who  usually  tried  them  first,  and  then,  if  the  result  was  not  satisfactory,  admin- 
istered Scott's  pills.  The  codex  of  this  date  uses  a  word  which  needs  explana- 
tion.  Among  presents  enumerated  .IS  received  by  "Shabounar"  (Chaboncau) 
from  Mr.  Chaboillez.  of  the  Northwest  Company,  are  ;  "  3  brace  of  Cloath, 
a  par  corduroy  overalls,  i  vests,  i  Brace  Blu  Cloth,  i  Brace  red  or  Scorlet  with 
3  bars,"  etc.    What  does  "  brace  "  mean  here  ?     It  is  apparently  not  "a  pair,"  as 


242 


HENRY  VIII.,   WITH   ONE   EYE. 


I  I 


I 


;:JI 


,1 . 


>    \ 


administered.  There  were  also  other  Indians  who  brought 
corn  and  dried  buffalo  meat,  in  exchange  for  blacksmith's 
work. 

March  9ith,  The  day  cold  and  fair,  with  a  high  easterly 
wind.  We  were  visited  by  two  Indians  who  gave  us  an 
account  of  the  country  and  people  near  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains"" where  they  had  been. 

March  ()th.  The  morning  cloudy  and  cool,  the  wind 
fron';'  the  north.  The  grand  chief  of  the  Minnetarees,  who 
is  called  by  the  French  Le  Borgne,"  from  his  having  but 

we  h.ive  "  a  par  of  overalls,"  and  the  sense  of  "pair"  does  not  suit  in  the 
cases  of  the  other  articles.  It  was  probably  a  trade-word,  of  whose  meaning, 
however,  I  am  ignorant. 

"  Here  first  so  called— before  "  Rock  mountain."  "Visited  by  the  Greesey- 
head  and  a  Ricara  today,  those  men  gave  some  account  of  the  Indians  near  the 
rockey  mountains,"  Clark  C  191. 

"  Bracktnridge's  Journal  is  cited  for  this  portrait  of  Le  Borgne;  "On 
the  fourth  of  July  we  had  something  like  a  celebration  of  this  glorious 
anniversary.  The  two  principal  chiefs  happened  to  be  with  us  :  the  One-ey'd 
and  the  Blackshoe.  The  former  is  a  giant  in  stature,  and  if  his  one  eye  had 
been  placed  in  the  middle  of  his  forehead,  he  might  have  passed  for  a  Cyclops. 
His  huge  limbs  and  gigantic  frame,  his  bushy  hair  shading  his  coarse  visage 
and  savage  features,  with  his  one  eye  flashing  fire,  constituted  him  a  fearful 
demon.  He  sways,  with  unlimited  control,  all  these  villages,  and  is  feared  by 
all  the  neighbouring  nations.  I  remarked  that  on  one  or  two  occasions  he 
treated  She-he-ke  [Big  White]  with  great  contempt.  Lisa  having  referred  to 
something  said  by  that  chief,  '  What,'  said  the  monster,  '  what  !  Does  that 
bag  of  lies  pretend  to  have  any  authority  here  ?  '  He  is  sometimes  a  cruel  and 
abominable  tyrant.  A  story  was  related  to  me  of  his  cruelty,  which  has  in  it 
something  of  a  more  refined  tragic  nature  than  we  usually  meet  with  amongst 
these  people.  Having  fallen  in  love  (for  even  Polyphemus  felt  the  influence  of 
the  god  who  spares  neither  giants  nor  common  men)  with  the  wife  of  a  young 
warrior,  he  went  to  his  lodge  during  his  absence,  and  carried  her  off  by 
force.  The  warrior  on  his  return  repaired  to  the  One-ey'd  demon  and  demanded 
his  wife  :  but  instead  of  receiving  redress,  was  put  '.o  death,  while  the  wretched 
object  of  the  dispute  was  retained  in  the  embraces  of  her  ravisher.  The 
mothi^r  of  the  young  warrior,  whose  only  child  he  was,  became  frantic,  lost  her 
senses  from  excess  of  grief,  and  now  does  nothing  but  go  about  reviling  him 
[Le  Borgne],  and  loading  him  with  her  curses  ;  yet  such  is  the  superstitious 
veneration  (by  the  by  it  deserves  a  better  name  on  this  occasion)  for  unhappy 
objects  of  this  kind  [insane  persons]  that  this  chief,  great  as  he  is,  dare  not  lay 
his  hand  on  her,  even  should  she  haunt  him  like  one  of  the  Eumenides."  That 
sounds  like  Brackenridge.     I  took  it  long  ago  from  the  Analectic  Magazine, 


:\ 


^t^mmm, 


RECEPTION  OF  THE   PURBLIND  POTENTATE.  243 

one  eye,  came  down  for  the  first  time  to  the  fort.     He  was 
received   with   much   attention,  two    guns  being  fired  in 
honor  of  his  arrival ;  the  curiosities  were  exhibited  to  him, 
and  as  he  said  that  he  had  not  received  the  j   -sents  which 
we  had  sent  to  him  on  his  arrival,  we  again  gave  him  a 
flag,  a  medal,  shirt,  arm-braces,  and  the  presents  usual  on 
such  occasions,  with  all  which  he  was  much  pleased.     In  the 
course  of  the  conversation,  the  chief  observed  that  some 
foolish  young  men  of  his  nation  had  told  him  there  was  a 
person  among  us  who  was  quite  black,  and  he  wished  to 
know  if  it  could  be  true.     We  assured  him  that  it  was  true, 
and  sent  for  York.     Le  Borgne  was  very  much  surprised  at 
his  appearance,  examined  him  closely,  and  spit  on  his  finger 
and  rubbed  the  skin  in  order  to  wash  ofT  the  paint ;  nor 
was  it  until  the  negro  uncovered  his  head  and  showed  his 
short  hair,  that  Le  Borgne  could  be  persuaded  that  he  was 
not  a  painted  white  man. 

March  \oth.     A  cold,  windy  day.     Tetuckopinreha,  chief 
of  the  Ahnahaways,  and  the  Minnetaree  chief  Ompschara 
passed  the  day  with  us,  the  former  remaining  during  the 
night.    We  had  occasion  to  see  an  instance  of  the  summary 
(A  i6g)  justice  of  the  Indians.     A  young  Minnetaree  had 
carried  off  the  daughter  of  Cogonomokshe  or  Raven  Man 
second   chief   of  the  upper  village  of  the  Mandans ;  the 
father  went  to  the  village  and  found  his  daughter,  whom 
he  brought  home,  and  took  with  him  a  horse  belonging  to 
the  offender.     This  reprisal  satisfied  the  vengeance  of  the 
father  and  of  the  nation,  as  the  young  man  would  not  dare 
to   reclaim   his  horse,  which  from  that  time  became  the 
property  of  the  injured  party. 

The  stealing  of  young  women  is  one  of  the  most  com- 
mon offenses  against    the   police  of  the   village,  and   the 

VII.,  Feb.,  1816,  p.  145.  On  turning  to  Brackenridge,  18x4,  I  find  on  p  261 
somethinfr  like  it.  But  unless  the  Analectic's  reviewer  embellished  the  pass- 
.ige,  which  he  places  in  quotation  marks,  he  took  it  from  p.  185  of  some  other 
edition  or  work  of  Brackenridge's,  which  I  have  not  seen.  However,  the  pass- 
age  is  too  good  to  cut,  and  I  leave  it  with  this  explanation. 


^ 


.u\ 


I 


344 


FREAKS  OF   THIS  ABOMINABLE  CYCLOPS. 


punishment  of  it  is  always  measured  by  the  power  or  the 
passions  of  the  kindred  of  the  female.  A  voluntary  elope- 
ment is  of  course  more  rigorously  chastised.  One  of  the 
wives  of  Le  Borgne  deserted  him  in  favor  of  a  man  who  had 
been  her  lover  before  the  marriage  and  who  after  some  time 
left  her,  and  she  was  obliged  to  return  to  her  father's  house. 
As  soon  as  he  heard  it  Le  Borgne  walked  there  and  found 
her  sitting  near  the  fire.  Without  noticing  his  wife,  he 
began  to  smoke  with  the  father ;  when  they  were  joined  by 
the  old  men  of  the  village,  who,  knowing  his  temper,  had 
followed  in  hopes  of  appeasing  him.  He  continued  to  smoke 
quietly  with  them  till,  rising  to  return,  he  took  his  wife  by 
the  hair,  led  her  as  far  as  the  door,  and  with  a  single  stroke 
of  his  tomahawk  put  her  to  death  before  her  father's  eyes. 
Then  turning  fiercely  upon  the  spectators,  he  said  that  if 
any  of  her  relations  wished  to  avenge  her,  they  could  always 
find  him  at  his  lodge ;  but  the  fate  of  the  woman  had  not 
sufficient  interest  to  e.\cite  the  vengeance  of  the  family. 
The  caprice  or  the  generosity  of  the  same  chief  gave  a  very 
different  result  to  a  similar  incident  which  occurred  some 
time  afterward.  Another  of  his  wives  eloped  with  a  young 
man,  who  not  being  able  to  support  her  as  she  wished,  they 
both  returned  to  the  village,  and  she  presented  herself  before 
the  husband,  supplicating  his  pardon  for  her  conduct.  Le 
Borgne  sent  for  the  lover.  At  the  mom  int  when  the  youth 
expected  that  he  would  be  put  to  death,  the  chief  {p.  :y6) 
mildly  asked  them  if  they  still  preserved  their  affection  for 
each  other ;  and  on  their  declaring  that  want,  and  not  a 
change  of  affection,  had  induced  them  to  return,  he  gave 
up  his  wife  to  her  lover,  with  the  liberal  present  of  three 
horses,  and  restored  them  both  to  his  favor. 

March  wtli.  The  weather  was  cloudy  in  the  morning, 
and  a  little  snow  fell ;  the  wind  then  shifted  from  southeast 
to  northwest,  and  the  day  became  fair.  It  snowed  again  in 
the  evening,  but  the  next  day, 

March  12///,"  was  fair,  with  the  wind  from  the  northwest. 

'"Clark   C  194,  this  date,  has:    "  Shabonat  deturmins  on  not   procee^Mng 


I    > 


!l,i 


MODE  OF  MAKING  MANDAN   BEADS. 


245 


?t 


March  13/A.  We  had  a  fine  day  and  a  southwest  wind. 
Mr.  M'Kenzie  came  to  see  us,  as  did  also  many  Indians, 
who  are  so  anxious  for  battle-axes  that  our  smiths  have  not 
a  moment's  leisu»-e,  and  procure  us  an  abundance  of  corn. 
The  river  rose  a  !.ttle  to-day,  and  so  continued. 

March  14///.  The  wind  being  from  the  west  and  the 
day  fine,  the  whole  party  were  employed  in  building  boats 
and  in  shelling  corn. 

March  i  $th.  The  day  is  clear,  pleasant,  and  warm.  We 
take  advantage  of  the  fine  weather  to  hang  all  our  Indian 
presents  and  other  articles  out  to  dry  before  our  departure. 

March  i6th.  The  weather  is  cloudy,  the  wind  from  the 
southeast.  A  Mr.  Garrow ,"  a  Frenchman  who  has  resided 
a  long  time  among  the  Ricaras  and  Mandans,  explained 
to  us  the  mode  in  which  they  make  their  large  beads,  an 
art  which  they  are  said  to  have  derived  from  some  prisoners 
of  the  Snake  Indian  nation,  and  the  knowledge  of  which  is 
a  secret  even  now  confined  to  a  few  among  the  Mandans 
and  Ricaras. 

The  process  is  as  follows ; "  glass  of  different  colors  is  first 
pounded  fine  and  washed,  till  each  kind,  which  is  kept 
separate,  ceases  to  stain  the  water  thrown  over  it.  Some 
well-seasoned  clay,  mixed  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sand 
to  prevent  its  becoming  very  hard  when  exposed  to  heat, 
and  reduced  by  water  to  the  consistency  of  dough,  is  then 
rolled  on  the  palm  of  the  hand,  till  it  becomes  of  the  thick- 
ness wanted  for  the  hole  in  the  bead.  These  sticks  of 
(/>.  171)  clay  are  placed  upright,  each  on  a  little  pedestal  or 

with  us  as  an  interpeter  under  the  terms  mentioned  yesterday  he  will  not  agree 
to  worlv  let  our  situation  be  what  it  may  nnr  stand  a  guard,  and  if  miffed  with 
any  man  he  wishes  to  return  when  lie  pleases,  also  have  the  disposeal  of  as 
much  provisions  as  he  chuses."  Chaboneau  was  cooler  than  the  weather  at 
Fort  Mandan,  and  it  is  a  wonder  he  was  not  frozen  out  of  the  garrison. 

"  I  suppose  this  to  be  one  Pierre  Gareau  or  Garreau,  a  noted  interpreter  whose 
name  appears  in  various  books.  His  Hidatsan  name  was  Mish,  or  Meesh  (also 
Ueesh),  from  their  word  for  rock,  translating  Pierre,  and  making  a  pun — like 
the  translators  of  Matt.  xvi.  i3,  to  whom  the  K.  C.  church  should  be  much  obliged. 

""  This  description  is  in  Clark  C  199-202,  but  in  Lewis'  hand,  of  this  date,  inter- 
polated between  March  21st  and  22d. 


iHMii 


' 


246 


A   DISAFFECTED   INTERPRETER. 


(■  'i; 


'1 


ball  of  the  same  material,  about  an  ounce  in  weight,  and 
distributed  over  a  small  earthen  platter,  which  is  laid  on  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes,  when  they  are  taken  off  to  cool. 
With  a  little  paddle  or  shovel,  three  or  four  inches  long  and 
sharpened  at  the  end  of  the  handle,  the  wet  pounded  glass 
is  placed  in  the  palm  of  the  hand.  The  beads  are  made  of 
an  oblong  form,  wrapped  in  a  cylindrical  form  around  the 
stick  of  clay,  which  is  laid  crosswise  over  it  and  gently  rolled 
backward  and  forward  till  it  becomes  perfectly  smooth.  If 
it  be  desired  to  introduce  any  other  color,  the  surface  of  the 
bead  is  perforated  with  the  pointed  end  of  the  paddle,  and 
the  cavity  filled  with  pounded  glass  of  that  color.  The  sticks 
with  the  strings  of  beads  are  then  replaced  on  their  pedestals, 
and  the  platter  deposited  on  burning  coals  or  hot  embers. 
Over  the  platter  an  earthen  pot  containing  about  three 
gallons,  with  a  mouth  large  enough  to  cover  the  platter,  is 
reversed,  being  completely  closed  except  a  small  aperture 
at  the  top,  through  which  are  watched  the  beads  A  quan- 
tity of  old  dried  wood,  formed  into  a  sort  of  dough  or  paste, 
is  placed  round  the  pot  so  as  to  almost  cover  it,  and  after- 
ward set  on  fire.  The  manufacturer  then  looks  through  the 
small  hole  in  the  pot,  till  he  sees  the  beads  assume  a  deep  red 
color,  to  which  succeeds  a  paler  or  whitish  red,  or  they  become 
pointed  at  the  upper  extremity  ;  on  which  the  fire  is  removed 
•And  the  pot  suffered  to  cool  gradually.  At  length  it  is 
removed,  the  beads  are  taken  out,  the  clay  in  the  hollow  of 
them  is  picked  out  with  an  awl  or  needle,  and  they  are  then 
fit  for  use.  The  beads  thus  formed  are  in  great  demand 
among  the  Indians,  being  used  as  pendants  to  their  ears 
and  hair,  and  sometimes  worn  round  the  neck. 

March  ijth.  A  windy  but  clear  and  pleasant  day,  the 
river  rising  a  little  and  open  in  several  places.  Our  Minne- 
taree  interpreter  Chaboneau,  whom  we  intended  taking  with 
us  to  the  Pacific,  had  some  days  ago  been  worked  (/.  IJ2) 
upon  by  the  British  traders,  and  appeared  unwilling  to  accom- 
pany us,  except  on  certain  terms — such  as  his  not  being 
subject  to  our  orders,  and  his  doing  duty  or  returning  when- 


(l|-  11 


CHAUONEAU    DISCII'LINEIJ— CANOES   COMPI.ETEI).        247 

ever  he  chose.  As  we  saw  clearly  the  source  of  his  hesitation, 
and  knew  that  it  was  intended  as  an  obstacle  to  our  views 
we  told  him  that  the  terms  were  inadmissible,  and  that  we 
could  dispense  with  his  services.  He  had  accordingly  left 
lis  with  some  displeasure.  Since  then  he  had  made  an 
ailvance  toward  joining  us,  which  w  s,  ,wed  no  anxiety  to 
meet ;  but  this  morning  he  sent  an  P,>o<ogy  for  his  improper 
conduct,  and  agreed  to  go  with  us  and  perform  the  same 
duties  as  the  rest  of  the  corps;  we  therefore  took  him  again 
into  our  service. 

March  xWi.  The  weather  was  cold  and  cloudy,  the  wind 
from  the  north.  We  were  engaged  in  packing  up  the  goods 
into  eight  divisions,  so  as  to  preserve  a  portion  of  each  in 
case  of  accident.  We  hear  that  the  Sioux  have  lately 
attacked  a  party  of  Assiniboins  and  Knistenaux,  near  the 
Assiniboin  river,  and  killed  Co  of  them. 

March  igth.  Some  snox"-  fell  last  night ;  this  morning 
was  cold,  windy,  and  cloudy.  Shahaka  and  Kagohami  came 
down  to  see  us,  as  did  another  Indian  with  a  sick  child  to 
whom  we  gave  some  medicine.  There  appears  to  be 'an 
approaching  war,  as  two  parties  have  already  gone  from 
the  Minnetarees,  and  a  third  is  preparing. 

March  20th.     The  morning  was  cold  and  cloudy,  the  wind 
high    from   the  north ;  the  afternoon    was    pleasant.     The 
canoes  being  finished,  four  of  them  were  carried  to  the  river 
at  a  distance  of  i -^  miles  from  where  they  were  constructed.' 
March  2\st.     The    remaining   periogues   were   hauled    to 
the  same  place,  and  all  the  men  except  three,  who  were  left 
to  watch   them,  returned  to  the  fort.     On  his  way  down 
which  was  abo-.t  six  miles.  Captain  Clark  passed  along  the 
points  of  thejiigh  hills,  where  he  saw  large  quantities  of 
(A  '73)  pumice-stone  on  the  foot,  sides,  and  tops  of  the  hills 
which  had  every  appearance  of  having  been  at  some  period 
on   fire.     He    collected  specimens  of    the  stone  itself    the 
pumice-stone,    and  the  hard  earth ;  on  being  put  int(i  the 
furnace  the  hard  earth  melted  and  glazed,  the  pumice-stone 
melted,  and  the  hard  stone  became  a  pumice-stone  glazed. 


f   .1 


CHAPTER  VII. 

THE  MISSOURI  FROM  FORT  MANDAN  TO  THE  YELLOWSTONE. 

First  rain  ;  river  rising  and  ice  running— The  boats  put  in  order — Indian  buflalo-huni  on  broken 
ice— Wildfowl  migrating— Thunder  and  hail->torm — Baggage  packed  and  specimens  of 
natural  history  to  be  sent  to  the  President- Indian  art— Arrival  uf  a  party  of  Kicaras  desir- 
ing to  visit  the  President— Departure  of  the  Expedition  from  Fort  Mandan,  Apiil  7th,  1805— 
Koster  of  the  party  at  this  date— Sacajawea  and  infant— A  Mandan  goes  too— Embarkation 
in  six  small  and  two  large  boats — The  barge  sent  down  river  with  presents  and  dispatches 
—  Knife  river  passed— Miry  creek— Minnetaiee  camps — Bluffs- Pocket-gophers  and  their 
food— French  trappers  overtaken— Little  Basin  bend  of  the  river — Alkali— The  i^ittle  Mis- 
souri—Description of  this  river— Onions  and  dwarf  cedar — Onion  creek — (loose  creek— Old 
camps  of  supposed  Assiniboins — Indian  liquor-trade— Chaboneau's  creek— Scarcity  of  game 
— (irouse— Goat-pen  creek— Minerals  and  petrifactions — Game— Traces  of  Assiniboins— 
Plants  and  animals— Indian  mode  of  disposing  of  the  dead— The  Whiteearth  river— Cut 
bluff— Inconvenience  01  the  sand— Detention  by  the  wind — Approaching  the  Yellowstone 
—Captain  Lewis  goes  ahead— The  Expedition  reaches  the  Yellowstone,  April  16th— Captain 
Lewis  returns  and  reports — Description  of  the  Vellowstone,  so  named  from  the  French 
Kochejaune— Eligible  site  for  a  fort. 

^nVARCH  22d.  This  was  a  clear,  pleasant  day,  with  the 
<1  nJ  wind  from  the  S.S.W.  We  were  visited  by  the  sec- 
ond chief  of  the  Minnetarees,  to  whom  we  gave  a  medal 
and  some  presents,  accompanied  by  a  speech.  Mr.  M'Ken- 
zie  and  Mr.  Laroche  also  came  to  see  us.  They  all  took 
their  leave  next  day. 

March  Z'^d.  Soon  after  their  departure,  a  brother  of  Le 
Borgne,  with  other  Indians,  came  to  the  fort.  The  weather 
was  fine,  but  in  the  evening  we  had  the  first  rain  that  has 
fallen  during  the  winter. 

March  24///.  The  morning  cloudy,  but  the  afternoon  fair, 
the  wind  from  the  N.E.  We  are  employed  in  preparing 
for  our  journey.  This  evening  swans  and  wild  geese  flew 
toward  the  N.E. 

March  2^th.  A  fine  day,  the  wind  S.W.  The  river  rose 
nine  inches,  and  the  ice  began  breaking  away  in  several 
places,  so  as  to  endanger  our  canoes,  which  we  are  hauling 
down  to  the  fort. 

M 


>    'I 


-?««.r?WW" 


_r 


HUNTING  BUFFALO  ON  THE  ICE.  249 

MnrcA  26M  The  river  rose  only  half  an  inch,  and  being 
choked  up  with  ,ce  near  the  fort,  did  not  begin  to  run  tiU 
toward  evening.     This  day  is  clear  and  pleasant 

March  27th,  The  wind  is  still  high  from  the  S.VV.  The 
ice,  which  ,s  occasionally  stopped  for  a  few  hours,  is  then 

w  '{-^V  IT"  ""^^  '''^"°''  sand-bars  when  the  river  runs 
We  had  a  our  canoes  brought  down,  and  were  obliged  to 
cauk  [calk  •]  and  pitch  very  attentively  the  cracks  so  common 
in  Cottonwood. 

March  2m  The  day  is  fair.  Some  obstacle  above  has 
prevented  the  .ce  from  running.  Our  canoes  are  now  neariy 
ready,  and  we  expect  to  set  out  as  soon  as  the  river  is  suffi- 
ciently clear  to  permit  us  to  pass 

N  W^'t^^'^K  '^^".  ^'''^''  '^'''  '-^"^  *he  wind  from  the 
N.VV.  The  obstructions  above  gave  way  this  morning,  and 
he  ,ce  came  down  m  great  quantities,  the  river  having  fallen 
.  inches  m  the  course  of  the  last  24  hours.  We  hL  had 
few  Indians  at  the  fort  for  the  last  three  or  four  days,  as  they 
are  now  busy  in  catching  the  floating  buffalo.     Every  spring 

fire  aVZ  '  K  ff  f '"^  "P'  '''^  -funding  plains  are  s'et  o^n 
firt  and  the  buffalo  are  tempted  to  cross  the  river  in  search 
of  the  fresh  grass  which  immediately  succeeds  the  burning 
On  their  way  they  are  often  insulated  on  a  large  cake  or  mass 
of  ice.  which  floats  down  the  river.     The  Indians  now  select 
the   most   favorable  point   for  attack,  and.  as   the  buffalo 
approaches,  dart  with  astonishing  agility  across  the  trembling 
•ce  sometimes  pressing  lightly  a  cake  of  not  more  than  two 
teet  square.     The  animal  is  of  course  unsteady,  and  his  fool- 
steps  are  insecure  on  this  new  element,  so  that  he  can  make 
but  little  resistance ;  and  the  hunter,  who  has  given  him  his 
death-wound.  paddles  his  icy  boat  to  the  shore  and  secures 
nis  prey. 

J^rch^Oth.     The  day  was  clear  and  pleasant,  the  wind 
IN .  W..  and  the  ice  running  in  great  quantities.     All  our  Indian 

S  "'.Ju'V''*'  '''r.°*'  """'^^^  P''"'"'''  *  '""^'^  f"""*'']  i"  ""d  °"   the  cracks 
and   wrndshakes    wh.ch  is  universially  in   the  cotton   wood."  Clark   C   204 
Cracked  eggshells,  for  a  voyage  of  more  than  a  thousand  miles  ! 


250      Sl'RINCi  OPENING— THK   VOYAGE  TO   BE   RESUMED. 


f^      ! 


presents  were  a^ain  exposed  to  the  air,  and  the  barge  made 
ready  to  descend  the  Missouri. 

March  ^is/.  Early  this  morning  it  rained,  and  the  weather 
continued  cloudy  during  the  day ;  the  river  rose  nine  inches; 
the  ice  is  not  running  so  much  as  yesterday.  Several  flocks 
of  geese  and  ducks  fly  up  the  river. 

Monday,  April  isf,  1805.  This  morning  there  was  a  thun- 
der-storm, accompanied  by  large  hail,  to  which  succeeded 
(/.  ij'6)  rain  for  about  half  an  hour.  We  availed  ourselves 
of  this  interval  to  get  all  the  boats  into  the  water.  At  4 
p.  m.  it  began  to  rain  a  second  time,  and  continued  till 
midnight.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  drops  at  two  or 
three  different  times,  this  is  the  first  rain  we  have  had  since 
the  15th  of  October  last. 

April  2d.  The  wind  was  high  last  night  and  this  morning 
from  the  N.W.;  the  weather  continued  cloudy.  The  Man- 
dans  killed  yesterday  21  elk,  about  15  miles  below,  but  they 
were  so  poor  as  to  be  scarcely  fit  for  use.' 

April  id.  The  weather  is  pleasant,  though  there  was  a 
white  frost  and  some  ice  on  the  edge  of  the  water.  We  were 
all  engaged  in  packing  up  our  baggage  and  merchandise. 

April  4///.  The  day  is  clear  and  pleasant,  though  the 
wind  is  high  from  the  N.W.  We  now  packed  up  in  different 
boxes  a  variety  of  articles  for  the  President,  which  we  shall 
send  in  the  barge.'  They  consisted  of  a  stuffed  male  and 
female  antelope  with  their  skeletons,  a  weasel,  three  squirrels 
from  the  Rocky  mountains,  the  skeleton  of  the  prairie-wolf, 
those  of  the  white  and  gray  hare,  a  male  and  female  blaireau 
or  burrowing-dog  of  the  prairie  [  Taxidca  amcricana\,  with  a 
skeleton  of  the  female,  two  burrowing-squirrels,  a  white 
weasel,  the  skin  of    the  louservia  {sic\,  the  horns  of   the 

-  "  The  2d.  Chief  of  the  2d.  Mandan  village  took  a  miff  at  our  not  attending 
to  him  perticularly  after  being  here  about  ten  days  and  moved  back  to  his 
village,"  Clark  C  206 — but  no  word  of  speeding  the  parting  guest  ! 

'Clarke  208-211  has  the  whole  invoice,  listed  by  boxes  and  parcels.  The 
articles  reached  Mr.  Jefferson,  and  some  of  them  were  long  on  view  at  Monti- 
cello.  Others  passed  to  Peale's  museum  in  Philadelphia.  I  have  reason  to 
believe  that  some  of  the  specimens  of  natural  history  arc  still  extant. 


r 

a 

tl 

h; 

ri\ 


>     1 


II 


\m 


h^ 


H\ .niwlMHi|i.|iii!llii|W' ■ 


ORIGIN   OF  THE  ART  OF   PAINTING. 


25 1 


mountain  ram  or  bighorn,  a  pair  of  largo  elk  horns,  the  horns 
and  tail  of  the  black-tailed  deer,  and  a  variety  of  skins,  such 
as  those  of  the  red  fox,  white  hare,  marten  [  Mustcla  ameri- 
cana\,  and  a  yellow  bear  obtained  from  the  Sioux ;  also,  a 
number  of  articles  of  Indian  dress,  among  which  was  a  buffalo- 
robe,  representing  a  battle  fought  about  eight  years  since 
between  the  Sioux  and  Ricaras  against  the  Mandans  and 
Minnetarees,  in  which  the  combatants  are  represented  on 
horseback. 

It  has  of  late  years  excited  much  discussion  to  ascertain 
the  period  when  the  art  of  painting  was  first  discovered. 
How  hopeless  all  researches  of  this  kind  are  is  evident  from 
the  foregoing  fact.  It  is  (/).  ijj)  indebted  for  its  origin  to 
one  of  the  strongest  passions  of  the  human  heart — a  wish  to 
preserve  the  features  of  a  departed  friend,  or  the  memory  of 
some  glorious  exploit.  This  inhabits  equally  the  bosoms  of 
all  men,  either  civilized  or  savage.  Such  sketches,  rude  and 
imperfect  as  they  are,  delineate  the  predominant  character 
of  the  savage  nations.  If  they  are  peaceable  and  inoffensive, 
the  drawings  usually  consist  of  local  scenery  and  their  favor- 
ite diversions.  If  the  band  are  rude  and  ferocious,  we 
observe  tomahawks,  scalping-knives,  bows,  arrows,  and  all 
the  engines  of  destruction. 

[Among  the  articles  sent  were  also]  a  Mandan  bow  and 
quiver  of  arrows  ;  also,  some  Ricara  tobacco-seed  and  an  ear 
of  Mandan  corn ;  to  which  were  added  a  box  of  plants, 
another  of  insects,  and  three  cases  containing  a  burrowing- 
squirrel,  a  prairie-hen,  and  four  magpies,  all  alive. 

April  t)th.  Fair  and  pleasant,  but  the  wind  is  high  from 
the  northwest.  We  were  visited  by  a  number  of  Mandans, 
and  are  occupied  in  loading  our  boats,  in  order  to  proceed 
on  our  journey.* 

*  At  this  date,  p.  74,  Gassdoes  a  remarkable  thing  for  him — he  indulges  certain 
reflections  :  "  If  this  brief  Journal,"  he  says.  "  should  happen  to  be  preserved, 
and  be  ever  thought  worthy  of  appearing  in  print ;  some  readers  will  expect 
that,  .ifter  ou  long  friendly  intercourse  with  these  Indians,  among  whom  we 
have  spent  the  winter  ;  our  acquaintance  with  those  nations  lower  down  the 
river  ;  and  the  information  we  received  relative  to  several  other  nations  :  we 


352 


AKIKARA   CHIEFS   TO   VISIT   WASHINGTON. 


April  6th.  Another  fine  day,  with  a  gentle  breeze  from 
the  south.  The  Mandans  continued  to  come  to  the  fort, 
and  in  the  course  of  the  day  informed  us  of  the  arrival  of  a 
party  of  Ricaras  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  We  sent 
our  interpreter  to  inquire  into  their  reason  for  coming ;  and 
in  the  morning, 

Sunday,  April  "jth,  he  returned,  with  a  Ricara  chief  and 
three  of  his  nation.  This  chief,  whose  name '  is  Kagohweto 
or  Brave  Raven,  brought  a  letter  from  Mr.  Tabeau,  men- 
tioning  the  wish  of  the  grand  chiefs  of  the  Ricaras  to  visit 
the  President,  and  requesting  permission  for  himself  and  four 
men  to  join  our  boat  when  it  descends ;  to  which  we  con- 
sented, as  it  will  then  be  manned  with  1 5  hands,  and  be  able 
to  defend  itself  against  the  Sioux.  After  presenting  the 
letter,  he  told  us  that  he  was  sent,  with  ten  warriors,  by  his 
nation,  to  arrange  their  settling  near  the  Mandans  and  Min- 
netarees,  whom  they  wished  to  join  ;  that  he  considered 
all  the  neighboring  nations  friendly  except  the  Sioux  (/».  178), 
whose  persecution  they  would  no  longer  withstand,  and 
whom  they  hoped  to  repel  by  uniting  with  the  tribes  in  this 
quarter.     He  added  that  the  Ricaras  intended  to  follow  our 


'    I. 


ought  to  be  prepared  now,  when  we  are  about  to  renew  our  voyage,  to  give  some 
account  of  the  fair  sex  of  the  Missouri,  and  entertain  them  with  narratives  of 
feats  of  love  as  well  as  of  arms.  Though  we  could  furnish  a  sufficient  number 
of  entertaining  stories  and  pleasant  anecdotes,  we  dn  not  think  it  prudent  to 
swell  our  Journal  with  them  ;  as  our  views  are  directed  to  more  useful  informa- 
tion. Besides,  as  we  are  yet  ignorant  of  the  dangers  which  may  await  us,  and 
the  difficulty  of  escape,  should  certain  probable  incidents  occur,  it  may  not  be 
inconsistent  with  good  policy  to  keep  the  Journal  of  as  small  and  portable  a  size 
as  circumstances  will  make  practicable.  It  may  be  observed  generally  that 
chastity  is  not  very  highly  esteemed  by  these  people,  and  that  the  severe  and 
loathsome  effects  of  certain  French  principles  are  not  uncommon  among  them. 
The  fac»  is,  that  the  women  are  generally  considered  an  article  of  traffic  and  indul- 
gences are  sold  at  a  very  moderate  price.  As  a  proof  of  this  I  will  just  mention 
that  for  an  old  tobacco-box,  one  of  our  men  was  granted  the  honor  of  passing  a 
night  with  the  daughter  of  the  head  chief  of  the  Mandan  nation.  An  old  bawd 
with  her  punks  may  also  be  found  in  some  of  the  villages  on  the  Missouri,  as 
well  as  in  the  large  cities  of  polished  nations." 

'  "  The  name  of  this  Chief  of  War  is  Kah-kah,  We-to— Raven  brave,"  Clark 
C  213. 


■  ut^ism^ 


FORT   MANDAN   EVACUATED. 


253 


advice  and  live  in  peace  with  all  nations,  and  requested  that 
we  would  speak  in  their  favor  to  the  Assiniboin  Indians. 
This  we  willingly  promised  to  do,  and  assured  them  that 
their  great  father  would  protect  them  and  no  longer  suffer 
the  Sioux  to  have  good  guns,  or  to  injure  his  dutiful  chil- 
dren. We  then  gave  him  a  small  medal,  a  certificate  of  his 
good  conduct,  a  carrot  of  tobacco,  and  some  wampum,  with 
which  he  departed  for  the  Mandan  village,  well  satisfied 
with  his  reception.* 

Having  made  all  our  arrangements,  we  left  the  fort  about 
five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.' 

The  party  now  consisted  of  32  persons.'  Besides  ourselves 
were  Sergeants  John  Ordway,  Nathaniel  Pryor,  and  Patrick 
Gass.    The  privates  were  William  Dratton,  John  Colter,  John 

'  The  Mandan  Codex  ends  here,  at  p.  314,  in  the  midst  of  the  Diddle  text  uf 
April  7th,  so  far  as  Clark's  journal  is  concerned.  The  rest  of  the  codex,  pp. 
315-274,  is  a  meteorological  register,  and  an  elaborate  invoice  of  the  stores  and 
presents  mentioned  in  the  beginning  of  Biddle's  History,  p.  3  of  this  edition. 

'  The  compositioi;  of  the  party  at  this  moment  of  its  division  into  two — one 
to  go  on,  the  other  to  go  back — is  precisely  ascertained.  Refer  now  to  note  ', 
p.  3.,  where  it  is  seen  that  45  persons  left  St.  Louis,  all  told — 39  of  the  permanent 
l)arty,  16  of  the  party  to  return  from  Mandan.  (Several  persons,  engaged  after 
.May  t4th,  1804,  and  discharged  before  April  7th,  1805,  do  not  affect  the  present 
count.)  Of  the  original  29,  Floyd  was  dead,  and  Libert^  lost,  leaving  37. 
To  these  27  were  added  3 — Lepage  (vice  Newman  disbanded),  Chaboneau, 
and  Sacajawea,  making  30  (without  affecting  the  16  of  the  return  party).  New- 
man and  Reed  were  transferred  to  the  return  party,  making  the  latter  18.  Two 
soldiers  of  the  return  party  were  transferred  to  the  permanent  party  (vice  Reed 
disbanded,  and  Libertd  lost),  leaving  the  return  party  16 — strength  the  same  as 
at  the  start,  but  composition  different — and  making  the  permanent  party  32  in 
number,  all  present  and  accounted  for  in  the  text  by  name.  Thus  it  is  seen 
that  of  the  aggregate  of  the  two  parties,  45,  2  had  been  lost,  leaving  43, 
and  3  had  been  gained,  making  46  to  be  accounted  for.  Of  these  46,  32  go 
up  river  to-day,  and  14  are  left.     For  these  14,  see  note  '. 

'  It  is  deemed  desirable,  for  historical  purposes,  to  give  here  a  more  formal 
roster  of  the  personnel  of  this  party  of  32,  with  such  biographical  data  as  I  have 
been  able  to  discover.  Excepting  Lewis,  Clark,  Gass,  and  Shannon,  we  know  next 
to  nothing  more  than  the  names  of  the  men  and  woman  who  accomplished  an 
immortal  purpose. 

COMMISSIONED  OFFICERS  (2). 

I.  Meriwether  Lewis,  Captain  ist.  Regt.  U.  S.  Infantry,  Com'd'g.    (See 
Memoirs,  antfci.) 


1 

1 '   i 

f 

|'',r 

ii 

r': 

254 


ROSTER  OF  THE  PERMANENT  PARTY. 


Collins,  Peter  Cruzatte,  Reuben  Fields,  Joseph  Fields,  Rob- 
ert FrazifT,  George  Gibson,  Silas  Goodrich,  Hugh  Hall, 
Thomas  P.  Howard,  Francis  Labiche,  Baptiste  Lapage,  Hugh 

2.  William   Clark,   Second  Lieutenant    U.   S.    Artillerists.     (Late    Captain 

Clarksville  Militia.     See  Memoir,  antei.) 

SERGEANTS  C4). 

3.  John  Ordway,  Odway.     No  more  known  of  him. 

4.  Nathamkl  Pryor,  Pryer,  Prior.     Afterward  Ensign,  U.  S.  A.  ? 

5.  fCiiARLKS  Floyd,     "deceased  the  20th.  of  August  1804 — a  young  man 

of  much  merit — his  father,  who  now  resides  in  Kentucky,  is  a  man 
much  rispected,  tho'  possessed  of  but  moderate  wealth,  as  the  son  lost 
his  life  while  in  this  service  I  considered  his  father  entitled  to  some  gra- 
tuity in  consideration  of  his  loss,  and  also,  that  the  deceased  being  noticed 
in  this  way  will  be  a  tribute  but  justly  due  his  merit,"  Lewis'  Roll, 
Jan.  15th,  1S07.     (See  p.  79,  and  note  there.) 

6.  Patrick  CIass.     "  Promoted  to  Sergeant  20th  of  August  1804,  in  the  place 

of  Charles  Floyd,  decea^d,  in  which  capacity  he  continued  until  dis- 
charged at  St.  Louis  Novr.  loth,  1806,"  Lewis'  Roll.  (See  Memoir, 
anlei.) 

PRIVATES  (23). 

7.  William  Bratton,  Bratten,  Brattin.     No  more  known  of  him. 

8.  John  Collins,  Collin,  Colins.     No  more  known  of  him. 

g.  John  Colter,  Coulter.  Discharged  at  his  own  request,  at  the  Mandans, 
Aug.  14th,  1806,  and  returned  to  the  life  of  a  trapper.  See  "  Colter's 
Route  in  1807,"  as  traced  on  Clark's  mapof  1814.  This  is  the  man  who 
had  the  horrible  experience  with  the  Indians  on  Missouri  waters,  when  his 
comrade  Potts  was  killed.  The  story  has  been  repeatedly  told  :  see  for 
example  Bradbury's  Travels,  p.  17,  and  Irving's  Astoria,  p.  146  of  the 
i86l  edition.  It  may  have  been  embellished  ;  but  Colter's  sufferings 
would  be  hard  to  exaggerate.  Colter  was  found  near  La  Charrette,  on 
the  Lower  Missouri,  by  the  overland  Astorian  party  under  Hunt,  Jan. 
l8th,  iSii  ;  there  he  had  come  from  the  Upper  Missouri  and  Yellowstone 
country  in  a  canoe,  and  brought  accounts  of  the  hatred  and  fury  excited 
among  the  Indians  by  Captain  Lewis'  unfortunate  affair  on  Maria's  river, 
July  27th,  1806,  when  Lewis  killed  one  Indian,  and  R.  Fields  another. 
Colter  would  have  joined  the  Astorians,  in  spite  of  his  dreadful  adven- 
ture ;  but  the  charms  of  a  new  young  wife  prevented.  No  more  known 
of  this  discoverer  of  sources  of  the  Yellowstone. 

lO.  Peter  Cruzatte  of  Biddle  ;  Pier  Cruzatte  of  Lewis'  Roll  ;  Crugatte  of 
print,  once  ;  Cruzat,  Crouzat,  Crusatte,  Crusatt,  Crusat,  Crousatte,  Cru- 
zate,  etc.,  of  the  codices  ;  real  name  probably  Pierre  Croisette  or  Croix- 
ette  ;  Canadian  French  ;  one  of  the  "  two  French  watermen  "  of  p.  2  ; 
chief  waterman  of  the  Expeditii  •'  ;  accidentally  shot  Captain  Lewis,  Aug, 
nth,  180O.     No  more  known  of  him. 


NCKboi 


ROSTER  OF  THE   PERMANENT  PARTY. 


255 


13 


U- 


15. 

16. 

17. 

18. 


20. 
21. 


22. 


M'Neal,  John  Potts,  John  Shields,  George  Shannon,  John 
B.  Thompson,  William  Werner,  Joseph  Whitehouse,  Alex- 
ander VViUard,  Richard  Windsor,  Peter  Wiser ;  and  Captain 

11.  Joseph  Fields,  and 

12.  Reubkn   Fields.     Brothers;  two  of  the   "nine  young  men   1    a  Ken- 

tucky."  "  Two  of  the  most  active  and  enterprising  young  men  who 
accompanied  us,  it  was  their  peculiar  fate  to  have  been  engaged  in  all  the 
most  dangerous  and  difficult  scenes  of  the  voyage  in  which  they  uni- 
formly  acquited  themselves  with  much  honor,"  Lewis'  Roll,  where  the 
names  stand  Field,  and  one  of  them  Reubin  Field. 
Robert   Frazier,    Fraizer,  Frazer,  Frasier,   Fraser,   Frasure.     No  more 

known  of  him. 
George  Gibson.     From  Mercer  Co.,  Pa.;  remained  in  St.  Louis  ;  married, 
and  died  there  1809  ;  his  industrious  widow  became  Mrs.  Cartmill,  Mrs. 
Dunleavy,  and  Mrs.  Hayden,  successively,  and  died  afterward. 
Silas  Goodrich,  often  in  the  codices  Guthrich.     No  more  known  of  him 
.   Hugh  Hall.     No  more  known  of  him. 
,  TH0.MAS  P.  Howard.      No  more  known  of  him. 
Francis  Labiche.  Labishe,  Lebiche,  Ladishe,  on  Lewis'  Roll  Labuiche, 
in  the  codices  usually  Labieshe,  which  latter  is  also  the  common  corrup- 
tion of  the  name  of   Lake  Labiche  ("  Elk  "  Lake,  about  the  sources  of 
the  Mississippi) ;  real  name  Fran9ois  Labiche  or  La   Biche ;  one  of  the 
"  two  French  watermen  "  of  p.   2.     '•  he  has  received  the  pay  only  of  a 
private,  tho'  besides  the  duties  performed  as  such,  he  has  rendere.i  me 
very  essential  services  as  a  French  and  English  interpreter,  and  sometimes 
also  as  an  Indian  interpreter  ;  therefore   I  should  think  it  only  just  that 
some  small  addition  to  his  pay  as  a  private  should  be  added,  tho'  no  such 
addition  has  at  any  time  been  promised  by  me,"  Lewis'  Roll. 
Baptiste  Lepage,  or  Le  Page  ;  in  Diddle  and  the  codices  usually  Lapage 
or  La  Page  ;  on  the  Roll  John  Bapteist  La  Page.     "  entitled  to  no  pecu- 
liar merit,     was  inlisted  at  Fort   Mandan  on  the  2nd  of   November  [In 
Biddle  Nov.  3d,  p.  189]  1S04.  in  order  to  supply  the  deficiency  in  my  per- 
manent  party   occasioned  by  the  discharge  of  John  Newman,     he  per- 
formed this  tour  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  returned  to  .St.  Louis,  where  he 
was  discharged  in  common  with  others  on   the  loth  of  November  last, 
as  he  did  not  perform  the  labours  incident  to  the  summer  of   1804,  it 
would  be  proper  to  give  him  the  grade  only  of  two-thirds  as  much  as'  i. 
given  to  others  of  his  rank,"  Lewis'  Roll. 
Hugh  McNeal,  .M'Neal.     No  more  known  of  him. 
John  Potts.     One    Potts  was  killed  when  Colter  was   captured   by   the 

Indians  ;  supposably  this  man  ;  no  further  evidence. 
George  Shannon.     Born  Pennsylvania  1787,  and  so  a  mere  lad  in  his  teens 
when  he  joined  the   Expedition.     It  is  said  in   Billon's  Annals  of  St. 
Louis,  1888,  p.  271,  that  Mr.  Shannon  "  received  a  wound  in  the  leg  from 
the  Indians,  and  on  his  return  had  his  leg  amputated  at  St.  Chanel's,  and 


19. 


p 


15 


356 


ROSTER  OF  THE  PERMANENT  PARTY. 


'I 


Clark's  black  servant  York.  The  two  interpreters  were 
George  Drewyer  and  Toussaint  Chaboneau.  The  wife 
[Sacajawea]  of  Chaboneau  also  accompanied  us  with  her 
young  child,  and  we  hope  may  be  useful  as  an  interpreter 
among  the   Snake   Indians.     She  was  herself  one  of  that 

a  wooden  one  substituted,  from  which  he  was  ever  afterward  called 
'  Peg-leg  Shannon.'  "  But  there  is  no  allusion  in  the  Biddle  History  to 
any  such  wound  or  operation.  No  man  was  ever  wounded  by  an  Indian 
on  the  Expedition.  Mr.  Shannon  suffered  the  loss  of  a  limb,  but  under 
circumstances  unknown  to  me.  He  was  sent  by  General  Clark  to  Phila- 
delphia (letter  before  me)  to  assist  Mr.  Biddle  in  preparing  the  History, 
and  rendered  the  author  important  service.  He  studied  law,  was  admitted 
to  the  bar,  and  began  practice  in  Lexington,  Ky.  He  was  a  Circuit 
Judge  for  some  years  ;  in  1828  he  located  at  Hannibal,  Mo.,  and  after- 
ward at  St.  Charles.  He  was  for  a  short  time  State  Senator,  and 
United  States  Attorney  for  Missouri.  He  died  suddenly,  in  court,  at 
Palmyra,  in  1836,  at  the  age  of  49  years.  He  was  a  relative  of  Governor 
Shannon  of  Kentucky,  and  perhaps  the  one  man  on  the  Expedition  whom 
either  of  the  captains  would  have  been  most  likely  to  meet  at  home  on 
terms  of  social  equality. 

23.  John  Shields.     "  he  has  received  the  pay  only  of  a  private,    nothing  was 

more  peculiarly  useful  to  us  in  various  situations  than  the  skill  and  inge- 
nuity of  this  man  as  an  artist  in  repairing  our  guns  and  accoutrements,  &c. 
and  should  it  be  thought  proper  to  allow  him  something  of  an  addition  to 
his  pay  he  has  deser\'ed  it,"  Lewis'  Roll.  I  think  this  was  the  handy 
and  industrious  Tubal  Cain  at  Fort  Mandan,  who  earned  so  much  corn 
and  meat  from  the  Indians  for  the  use  of  the  party  ;  and  I  fully  expected 
to  find  him  named  as  this  blacksmith  in  the  codices  ;  but  if  "  Shields  "  be 
anywhere  there,  in  this  connection,  it  has  escaped  careful  search  for  it. 
A  Clatsop  codex  praises  him  highly,  by  name. 

24.  John  B.  Thompson,  Thomson,  Tompson,  Tomson. 

25.  William  Werner,  Warner,  Wirner,  Wernor. 

26.  Joseph  Whiteiiouse,  once  White  House. 

27.  Alexander  Willard,  Wilard,  Willerd. 

28.  Richard  Windsor,  Windser,  Winsor,  Winser. 

29.  Peter  Wiser,  Wisor,  Wisert,  Wiset.     No  more  known  of  these  six, 

INTERPRETERS  (2). 

30.  Georoe  Drewyer  of  Biddle  and  the  codices,  rarely  in  the  latter  Drewer  ; 

Drulyard  of  Lewis'  Roll ;  proper  name  believed  to  be  Drouillard,  as 
appears  from  an  item  in  the  Missouri  Gazette  of  St.  Louis,  early  in  1807  : 
"  In  the  Spring  Manuel  Lisa,  a  trader,  and  George  Drouillard,  who  had 
crossed  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Pacific  with  Lewis  and  Clark, 
embarked  in  the  Upper  Missouri  fur  trade  with  the  Indians  with  an  out- 


ROSTER  OF  THE  PERMANENT  PARTY. 


257 


tribe,  but  having  been  taken  in  war  by  the  Minnetarees,  she 
was  sold  as  a  slave  to  Chaboneau,  who  brought  her  up  and 
afterward  married  her.  One  of  the  Mandans  likewise 
embarked  with  us,  in  order  to  go  to  the  Snake  Indians,  and 
obtain  a  peace  with  them  for  his  countrymen.     All  this  party 

fit  of  $16,000."  (See  Billon's  Annals,  i838,  p.  82.)  Drewyer  was  a  half- 
breed  ;  the  Indian  side  of  him  made  him  the  best  hunter  and  woodsman 
of  the  party  ;  he  was  a  crack  shot,  and  simply  invaluable.  Drewyer  and 
the  brothers  Fields  seem  to  have  been  on  the  whole  the  most  serviceable 
of  the  party,  exclusive  of  the  sergeants.  Lewis'  Roll  praises  Drewyer 
highly  :  "  A  man  of  much  merit  ;  he  has  been  peculiarly  useful  from  his 
knowledge  of  the  common  language  of  gesticulation,  and  his  uncommon 
skill  as  a  hunter  and  woodsman  :  those  several  duties  he  perfonned  in 
good  faith  and  with  an  ardor  which  deserves  the  highest  commendation, 
it  was  his  fortune  to  have  encountered  on  various  occasions  with  either 
Capt.  Clark  or  myself  all  the  most  dangerous  and  trying  scenes  of  the 
voyage  in  which  he  uniformily  acquitted  himself  with  honor,  he  has 
served  the  complete  term  of  the  whole  tour  and  received  only  25.  Dollars 
pr.  month  and  one  ration  pr.  day,  while  I  am  informed  that  it  is  not 
unusual  for  individuals  in  similar  employment  to  receive  30  dollars  pr. 
Month. — "     Drewyer  alone  is  the  "  interpreter  and  hunter"  of  p.  2. 

31.  ToussAiNT  Chauoneau  of  the  text,  Touisant  Charbono  of  Lewis'  Roll, 

with  twelve  or  more  names  in  the  codices.  For  this  individual,  greater 
in  names  than  in  any  fact,  see  note  ",  p.  189. 

WOMAN  (i). 

32.  S.\CAJAWEA,  otherwise  Bird-woman,  with  her  infant,  bom  Feb.  nth,  1805. 

See  note  ",  p.  1S9. 

SERVANT  (I). 

33.  York,  a  negro  slave,  belonging  to  Captain  Clark.     See  note  ",  p.  159. 

Deducting  from  this  list  of  33  persons  one.  Sergeant  Floyd,  who  was  of  the 
permanent  party  at  the  date  of  his  decease,  and  was  returned  by  Lewis  on  his 
Roll,  we  have  accurately  the  32  persons  (adults)  who  proceeded  from  Fort 
Mandan,  and  were  accompanied  for  a  short  distance  by  an  uncounted  Mandan 
Indian,  not  belonging  to  the  party. 

The  Muster-roll  in  the  archives  of  the  War  Department,  above  quoted,  has 
no  remarks  against  any  of  the  names,  except  those  which  I  have  transcribed  in 
full.  It  is  entitled  :  "A  Roll  of  the  men  who  accompanied  Captains  Lewis  & 
Clark  on  their  late  tour  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  through  the  interior  of  the  Con- 
tinent of  North  America,  showing  their  rank  with  some  remarks  on  their 
respective  merits  and  services. — "  It  is  one  large  double  sheet,  formed  of  two 
sheets  of  foolscap  pasted  top  to  bottom,  formally  ruled  off  for  the  numbered  list 


■ 


1  M 


m'^v 


;  i  1 1  ,  i 


258      STRENGTH   AND  COMPOSITION   OF  RETURN   PARTY. 

with  the  baggage  was  stowed  in  six  small  canoes  and  two 
large  periogues. 

We  left  the  fort  with  fair,  pleasant  weather,  though  the 
northwest  wind  was  high,  and  after  making  about  four  miles 
camped  on  the  north  side  of  the  Missouri,  nearly  (/.  779) 
opposite  the  first  Mandan  village. 

At  the  same  time  that  we  took  our  departure,  our  barge,* 

of  names,  rank,  remarks,  etc.  It  is  in  gocxl  preservation  and  perfectly  legible, 
excei)iing  a  few  words  along  the  crease  of  the  pasted  place.     It  ends  as  follows  : 

"  General  Kemarks. 
"  With  rispect  to  all  those  persons  whose  names  are  entered  on  this  roll,  I  feel 
a  peculiar  pleasure  in  declaring,  that  the  ample  support  which  they  gave  us 
under  every  difficulty,  the  manly  firmness  which  they  evinced  on  every  necessary 
occasion,  and  the  patience  and  fortitude,  with  which  they  submitted  to  and  bore 
the  fatigues  and  painful  sufferings  incident  to  my  late  tour  to  the  Pacific  Ocean 
entitles  them  to  my  warmest  approbation  and  thanks,  nor  will  I  suppress  the 
expression  of  a  hope  that  the  recollection  of  services  thus  faithfully  performed 
will  meet  a  just  reward  in  an  ample  remuneration  on  the  part  of  our  government. — 

[Signed]    "  Meriwether  Lewis  Capt. 
"  City  of  Washington  "  ist.  U'S.  Regt.  Infty. 

"January  15th,  1807." 

•  The  strength  and  for  the  most  part  the  composition  of  this  return  party  are 
certain.  The  text  here  indicates  ten  persons.  The  text  above  (p.  252)  indicates 
that  there  might  be  15  persons  (including  Mr.  Tabeau  and  his  four  men).  (lass 
s.iys,  p.  76,  this  date  :  "  Thirty-one  men  tind  a  woman  went  up  river  iind  thirteen 
returned  down  it  in  the  boat."  Lewis  D  3,  dated  Fort  Mandan,  April  7th,  1805, 
is  as  follows  ;  "  Having  on  this  day  at  4  p.  m.  completed  every  arrangement  neces- 
sary for  our  departure,  we  dismissed  the  barge  and  crew  with  orders  to  return 
without  delay  to  St.  Louis,  a  small  canoe  with  two  French  hunters  accom- 
panyed  the  barge  ;  these  men  had  ascended  the  missouri  with  us  last  year  as 
engages  [not  eni;ag^s  of  the  Expedition  ;  simply  those  two  who  were  picked  up 
at  Cannon-ball  river,  Oct.  l8th  :  see  p.  171].  The  barge  crew  consisted  of  six 
soldiers  [besides  Corporal  Richard  Warfington,  in  charge,  being  Privates  M.  I!. 
Reed  and  John  Newman,  disbanded,  see  note  *^  p.  77,  note  '*  ]).  167,  note  ^  p. 
253,  and  four  others],  and  two  Frenchmen  ;  two  Frenchmen  and  a  Ricara  Indian 
also  take  their  passiige  in  her  as  far  .is  the  Ricara  Vilages,  at  which  pLice  we 
expect  Mr.  Tiebeau  [Anthony  Tabeau]  to  embark  with  his  peltry  who  in  that 
case  will  make  an  addition  of  two,  perh.ips  .'our  men  to  the  crew  of  the  barge. 
We  gave  Richard  Warfington,  a  discharged  Cor|)l.  the  charge  of  the  Barge  and 
crew,  and  confided  to  his  care  likewise  our  dispatches  to  the  government,  letters 
to  our  private  friends,  and  a  number  of  articles  to  the  President  of  the  United 
States.  One  of  the  Frenchmen  by  the  Name  of  [Joseph,  red-inked  in  by  Clark] 
dravline  an  honest  discrete  man  and  an  excellent  boat-man  is  imployed  to  coii» 


CORPORAL   RICHARD   WARFINGTON  S   RECORD. 


259 


manned  with  seven  soldiers,  two  Frenchmen,  and  Mr. 
[Joseph]  Gravelines  as  pilot,  sailed  for  the  United  States, 
loaded  with  our  presents  and  dispatches. 

duct  the  barge  as  a  pilot ;  we  have  therefore  every  hope  that  the  barge  and  with 
her  our  dispatches  will  arrive  safe  at  St.  Louis.  Mr.  Gravlin  who  speaks  the 
Kicara  language  extreemly  well,  has  been  imployed  to  conduct  a  few  of  the 
Kecara  Chiefs  to  the  seat  of  government  who  have  promised  us  to  decend  in  the 
liarge  to  St.  Liwis  [sic]  with  that  view."  So  the  barge  contained  the  13  that 
(iass  counts:  Corporal  Warfington,  in  charge;  Mr.  Cravelines,  pilot;  six 
privates  (Uvo  of  whom  were  Reed  and  Newman) ;  two  Frenchmen — these  ten  to 
go  to  St.  Louis,  as  per  text ;  with  two  Frenchmen  and  an  Arikara,  to  go  a  short 
distance.  The  return  of  certain  members  of  this  party  to  St.  Louis  is  of  course  a 
matter  of  history,  into  which,  however,  a  mere  foot-note  like  this  can  hardly  go. 
Hut  I  will  give  the  record  of  Corporal  Warfington,  hitherto  unpublished.  It 
forms  part  of  the  same  autograph  letter  of  Lewis'  which  relates  to  Private  New- 
man (see  note  ^,  p.  167)  accompanying  Lewis'  official  .Muster-roll  of  Jan.  15th, 
1S07.  This  letter  is  in  good  preservation  ;  but  unluckily  some  water,  or  whisky 
perhaps,  got  spilled  on  it,  soaked  through  its  three  pages,  and  made  the  old  brown 
nut-gall  ink  run  in  an  irregularly  circular  space  of  about  two  inches,  so  that  just 
tlifcfe  some  words  are  not  fairly  legible.  Yet  these  can  be  restored  in  perfect 
sense  and  syntax,  by  obvious  conjecture  ;  and  several  experts  have  agreed  in  the 
following  rendering  : 

"  Richard  Warfington  was  a  Corporal  in  the  Infantry  of  the  U'  States  army, 
whom  I  had  occasion  to  take  with  me  on  my  voyage  as  far  as  the  Mandan 
nation,  his  term  of  service  expired  on  the  4th  of  August  [1804]  within  ?  nearly 
three  months  previous  to  my  arrival  at  that  place ?  nation?  and?  knowing  that 
it  would  become  necessary  for  me  to  send  back  my  boat  in  the  spring  1805  with 
a  party  of  soldiers  whose  terms  of  service  had  not  expired  ;  that  it  was  of  some 
importance  that  the  government  should  receive  in  safety  the  dispatches  which  I 
was  about  to  transmit  from  thence  ;  that  there  was  not  one  of  the  party  destined 
to  be  returned  from  thence  in  whom  I  could  place  the  least  confidence  except 
himself,  and  that  if  he  was  discharged  at  the  moment  of  the  expiration  of  his 
term  of  service  that  he  would  necessarily  loose  his  military  military  [it's — page 
turns]  standing,  and  thereby  lessen  the  efficiency  of  his  command  among  the 
soldiery  ;  I  was  induced  under  these  considerations  to  make  an  arrangement 
witli  him  by  which  it  was  agreed  between  us  that  he  should  not  receive  his  dis- 
charge from  the  military  service  untill  his  return  to  St.  Louis,  and  that  he  should 
in  the  interim  retain  his  rank  and  receive  only  for  his  services  the  accustomed 
compensation,  accordingly  he  remained  with  me  during  the  winter,  and  was 
the  next  spring  in  conformity  to  my  plan  jilaced  in  command  of  the  boat  and 
charged  with  my  disp.itches  to  the  government,  the  duties  assigned  him  on 
this  occasion  were  performed  with  a  punctuality  which  uniformly  ?  characterized  ? 
his  conduct  while  under  my  command.  Taking  into  view  tlie  cheerfulness  with 
which  he  continued  in  the  service  ?  after  every  obligation  had  ceased  to  exist, 
bore  ?  the  exposures  ?  tlic  fatigues,  labour  and  dangers  incident  to  that  service. 


4 


^    I 


l!ii 


I  I  M 


260       THE   EXPEDITION   MOBILIZES— KNIFE   RIVEK. 

Apn7  8///."*  The  day  was  clea  and  cool,  the  wind  from  the 
northwest,  so  that  we  traveled  slonly.  After  breakfasting 
at  the  second  Mandan  village,  we  passed  the  Mahaha  [vil- 
lage] at  the  mouth  of  Knife  "  river,  a  handsome  stream  about 
80  yards  wide.  Beyond  this  we  reached  the  island  which 
Captain  Clark  had  visited  on  the  30th  of  October.  This 
island  has  timber,  as  well  as  the  lowlands  on  the  north,  but 
its  [/.  ^-..the  timber's]  distance  from  the  water  had  prevented 

and  above  all  the  fidelity  with  which  he  discharged  this?  his?  duty,  it  would 
seem  that  when  rewards  are  about  to  be  ?  distributed  among  those  who  were 
engaged  in  the  enterprise  that  his  claim  to  something  more  than  his  pay  of  seven 
dollars  Pr.  month  as  corj'oral  cannot  be  considered  unreasonable." 

The  "distribution  of  rewards,"  in  which  Captain  Lewis  hopes  Corporal 
Warfington  will  not  be  forgotten,  though  he  was  not  one  of  the  permanent 
party  that  returned  from  the  Pacific  in  l3o6,  alludes  to  a  certain  Act  of  Con- 
gress making  grants  of  land,  etc.  The  dispatches  which  the  corporal  bore  were 
the  first  direct  official  word  from  the  Expedition  since  its  departure  from  .St. 
Louis;  and  the  last  that  was  heard  of  or  from  Lewis  and  Clark  until  their 
return  in  September,  iSo6. 

'"The  IJiddle  text,  having  finished  with  the  Mandan  Codex,  Clark  C,  is  already 
en  route  with  Co<lex  D,  which  runs  Apr. 7th. -May  23d,  1805.  This  is  a  Lewis,  and 
one  of  the  thirteen  "  red  books."  (.See  the  bibliographical  introduction,  anted.) 
The  attentive  reader  will  not  fail  to  discern  a  marked  change  in  the  tone  or  style 
of  the  narrative,  which  has  hitherto  followed  the  three  Clarks,  .\,  !J,  C.  It  ii 
all  Kiddie's  fabric,  of  course,  but  the  difference  in  the  raw  materials  out  of  which 
he  wove  his  tissue  colors  the  text  accordingly.  Where  Clark's  syntax  is  exiguous, 
Lewis'  is  redundant,  often  with  singularly  intricate  constructions,  and  full  stop-, 
far  apart — where  Clark  is  Doric,  Lewis  is  Corinthian.  For  an  example  at  the 
outset,  Lewis  D  5  :  "Our  vessels  consisted  of  six  small  canoes,  and  .wo  large 
perogues.  This  little  fleet  altho'  not  quite  so  rispectable  as  those  of  Columbu-, 
or  Capt.  Cook,  were  still  viewed  by  us  with  as  much  pleasure  as  those  deservedly 
famed  adventurers  ever  beheld  theirs  ;  and  I  dare  say  with  quite  as  much  anxiety 
for  their  safety  and  preservation,  we  were  now  about  to  penetrate  a  country  at 
least  2000  miles  in  width,  on  which  the  foot  of  civilized  man  had  never  trodden; 
the  good  or  evil  it  had  in  store  for  us  was  for  experiment  yet  to  determine,  and 
these  little  vessells  contained  every  article  by  which  we  were  to  expect  to  subsist 
or  defend  ourselves,  however  as  the  state  of  mind  in  which  we  are,  generally 
gives  the  colouring  to  events,  when  the  immagination  is  suffered  to  wander  into 
futurity,  the  picture  which  now  presented  itself  to  me  was  a  most  pleasing  one. 
entertaing  as  I  do  the  most  confident  hope  of  succeeding  [page  turns]  succeeding 
in  a  voyage  which  had  formed  a  darling  project  of  mine  for  the  last  ten  years,  I 
could  but  esteem  this  moment  of  our  departure  as  among  the  most  happy  of  my  life." 

"  Knife  river  (Couteau  of  the  French)  is  the  last  one  of  the  five  considerable 
streams  which  seek  the  Missouri  from  the  west  between  the  Cheyenne  below 


i^t; 


MIRY  CREEK— MOUSE  OR  SOURIS  RIVER. 


261 


our  camping  there  during  the  winter.  From  the  head  of 
this  island  we  made  3>^  miles  to  a  point  of  wood  on  the 
north,"  passing  a  high  bluff  on  the  south,  and  having  come 
about  14  miles  [without  noticing  Spring  creek].  In  the  course 
of  the  day  one  of  our  boats  filled  and  was  near  sinking ;  we 
however  saved  her  with  the  loss  of  a  little  biscuit  and  powder. 
April  ()th.  We  set  off  as  soon  as  it  was  light,  and  pro- 
cceded  five  miles  to  breakfast,  passing  a  low  ground  on  the 
south,  covered  with  groves  of  Cottonwood.  At  the  distance 
of  six  miles  we  reached  on  the  north  a  hunting-camp  of 
Minnetarees,  consisting  of  30  lodges,  built  in  the  usual  form 
of  earth  and  timber.  Two  miles  and  a  quarter  further  comes 
in  on  the  same  side  Miry  creek,"  a  small  stream  about  ten 
yards  wide,  which,  rising  in  some  lakes  near  the  Mouse  "  [or 

and  the  Little  Missouri  above,  namely  :  the  Owl,  Grand,  Cannon-ball,  Heart, 
and  Knife.  For  this  whole  distance— in  fact  from  the  James  river  itself— the 
Missouri  receives  from  the  east  no  affluent  of  any  size  comparable  to  one  of 
these.  The  five  rivers  named  successively  decrease  in  their  respective  totals  of 
length  from  the  Owl  to  the  Knife.  They  are  included  in  a  somewhat  triangular 
area  embraced  by  the  Cheyenne  on  the  south,  the  Little  Missouri  on  the  west, 
and  the  Missouri  on  the  east ;  the  points  of  this  triangle  being  the  mouth  of  the 
Little  Missouri  on  the  north,  the  mouth  of  the  Cheyenne  on  the  southeast,  and 
the  Black  hills  proper  on  the  southwest.  The  Knife  arises  in  open  broken 
country  near  the  Little  Missouri  and  the  heads  of  Heart  river,  in  Dunn,  Stark, 
and  Williams  Cos.,  and  courses  through  Mercer  Co.  in  a  general  easteriy  direc. 
tion  to  the  Missouri.  One  of  its  Indian  names  is  Minahor  Meenah  Wakpa, 
lettered  on  some  maps.  This  stream  is  distinctively  Big  Knife  river  (see  Little 
Knife,  beyond).     The  county  town  of  Stanton  is  at  its  mouth. 

'*Or  east  (left)  bank,  about  Hancock,  McLean  Co.  "  Capt.  Clark  myself  the 
two  Interi)retters  the  woman  and  child  sleep  in  a  tent  of  dressed  skins."  Lew  is  I)  6. 
"  Now  Snake  Creek,  quite  near  the  boundary  between  McLean  and  Stevens 
Cos.;  R.  Bourbeuse  (miry,  muddy,  like  Vaseuse)  of  some  French  maps.  This 
is  the  only  creek  from  the  north  or  east  which  the  te.xt  yields  anywhere  along 
here.  Clark's  map,  1814,  and  Lewis'  too,  1806,  have  /:/w,  the  upper  and  larger 
of  these  being  the  Miry  or  "  Mirey."  Lewis  D  12  has:  "  N.  20  W.  to  the 
mouth  of  Miry  creek  stard.  side,  passing  a  small  run  and  a  hill  called  Snake  den." 
Here  is  the  first  of  these  creeks  ;  also,  the  obvious  origin  of  the  modern  name 
Snake  for  the  second  of  them.  There  are  in  fact  four,  of  which  Snake  or  Miry 
is  the  second,  and  the  fourth  is  calleil  Douglass  ;  between  the  third  and  fourth 
is  Fort  Stevenson.     See  next  two  notes. 

'♦The    Mouse  or  Souris  river  is  the  largest  tributary   of  the    Red  river  of 
the    North  in   the    United   States,   joining  the   Assiniboin    in    Manitoba,    the 


ff^.. 


',.  ''"^^1  '*"  *    ' 


262        MINNETAREE  HUNTING-PARTY— HIGH  BLUFFS. 


-<   i\ 


Souris]  river,  passes  through  beautiful  level  fertile  plains 
without  timber,  in  a  direction  nearly  southwest,  the  banks 
near  its  entrance  being  steep  and  rugged  on  both  sides  of 
the  Missouri.  Three  miles  above  this  creek  we  came  to 
a  hunting-party  of  Minnetarees,  who  had  prepared  a  park 
or  inclosure,  and  were  waiting  the  return  of  the  antelope. 
These  animals,  which  in  the  autumn  retire  for  food  and 
shelter  to  the  Black  mountains  during  the  winter,  recross 
the  river  at  this  season  of  the  year,  and  spread  themselves 
through  the  plains  on  the  north  of  the  Missouri.  We  halted, 
(/>.  i8o)  smoked  a  short  time  with  the  Minnetarees,  and 
then  proceeded  on  through  handsome  plains  on  each  side  of 
the  river,  and  camped  at  the  distance  of  23^  miles  on  the 
north  side."  The  day  was  clear  and  pleasant,  the  wind  high 
from  the  south  ;  but  it  afterward  changed  to  a  western  steady 
breeze. 

The  bluffs  which  we  passed  to-day  are  upward  of  100  feet 
high,  composed  of  a  mixture  of  yellow  clay  and  sand,  with 
many  horizontal  strata  of  carbonated  wood  resembling  pit- 
coal,  from  one  to  five  feet  in  depth,  scattered  through  the 

single  river  thus  formed  emptying  into  the  Red  river  at  a  point  where  the 
latter  is  crossed  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  R.  R.  The  course  of  Mouse  river  is 
interesting.  It  heads  wholly  in  the  British  possessions  (north  of  49°  ),  west  of 
105"  \V.  long.,  runs  toward  the  49th  parallel  (northern  border  of  the  United 
States),  which  it  crosses  near  103'  30',  runs  in  the  United  States  nearly  to  103° 
long.,  recrosses  49°  lat.,  then  courses  north  of  and  nearly  parallel  with  49'  N. 
lat.  to  about  102°  W.  long.,  when  it  again  crosses  49'  lat.,  re-entering  the 
United  States,  strikes  south  and  seems  about  to  seek  the  Missouri.  It  is 
"bluffed  off "  however,  by  the  Coteau  du  Missouri,  representing  a  general 
elevation  of  2,000  feet,  and  separating  the  Missouri  watershed  from  that  of  the 
Red  river.  Thus  the  Mouse  river  makes  a  long  loop  into  North  Dakota,  and 
returns  upon  itself,  once  more  recrossing  the  parallel  of  49"  N.  lat.,  at  about 
loi"  W.  long.,  west  of  Turtle  mountain,  and  so  onto  its  junction  with  the 
Assiniboin,  at  a  town  called  Milford,  in  Manitoba.  The  southernmost  point 
in  the  bight  of  this  loop  is  in  McHenry  Co.,  about  N.E.  of  Fort  Stevenson 
on  the  Missouri,  the  future  site  of  which  the  Expedition  is  now  approaching. 

"  Here  the  Expedition  is  past  the  present  site  of  Fort  Stevenson,  on  the  north 
(left)  bank  of  the  Missouri,  in  Stevens  Co.  (See  last  two  notes.)  This  fort  was 
flourishing  in  1873,  in  the  autumn  of  which  year  I  came  down  from  the  49th 
parallel  along  Mouse  river,  by  an  easy  wagon  road  to  Stevenson,  and  thence 
along  the  north  side  of  the  Missouri  to  Bismarck. 


i 


SNOW-GEESE— POCKET-GOPHERS. 


263 


bluff  at  different  elevations,  some  as  high  as  80  feet  above 
the  water.  The  hills  along  the  river  are  broken,  and  present 
every  appearance  of  having  been  burned  at  some  former 
period  ;  great  quantities  of  pumice-stone  and  lava— or  rather 
earth,  which  seems  to  have  been  boiled  and  then  hardened 
by  exposure—being  seen  in  many  parts  of  these  hills,  where 
they  are  broken  and  washed  down-  into  gullies  by  the  rain 
and  melting  snow. 

A  great  number  of  brants  pass  up  the  river ;  some  of  them 
are  perfectly  white,"  except  the  large  feathers  of  the  first 
jomt  of  the  wing,  which  are  black,  though  in  every  other 
characteristic  they  resemble  common  gray  brant.     We  also 
saw  but  could  not  procure  an  animal  that  burrows  in  the 
ground,  and  is  similar  in  every  respect  to  the  burrowing- 
squirrcl,  except  that  it  is  only  one-third  of  its  size."     This 
may  be  [is]  the  animal  whose  works  we  have  often  seen  in 
the  plains  and  prairies  ;    they   resemble  the  labors  of  the 
salamander  [Geomj^s  tuza]  in  the  sand-hills  of  South  Carolina 
and  Georgia,  and  like  him  the  animals  rarely  come  above 
ground  ;    they  consist  of  a  little  hillock  of  ten  or  twelve 
pounds  of  loose  ground,  which  would   seem  to  have  been 
reversed  from  a  pot,  though   no  aperture  is  seen  through 
which  it  could  have  been  thrown.     On  removing  gently  the 
earth,  you  discover  that  the  soil  has  been  brolcen  in  a  circle 
of  about  an  inch  and  a  half  diameter,  where  the  ground  is 
looser,  though  still  no  opening  is  perceptible.     When  we 
stopped  for  dinner  the  squaw  went  out,  and  after  penetrating 
with  (/>.  181)  a  sharp  stick  the  holes  of  the  mice  [gophers] 
near  some   drift-wood,  brought  to   us  a   quantity  of  wild 

'*  These  are  the  snow-goose,  Chen  hyperboreus. 

"  The  animal  here  indicated  by  the  description  of  its  burrows  is  a  com- 
mon  spec.es  of  pouched  rat  or  pocket-gopher,  either  Geomys  bursarius ,  closely 
rebted  to  the  "salamander  ••  ((7.  /«.,)  mentioned  in  the  same  parag^ph.  or 
Thomo,nys  fa^M./.s,  a  species  of  the  next  nearest  genus  ;  both  are  commo^  i„ 
these  parts  and  the.r  habus  entirely  similar.  They  work  extensive  underground 
galleries  throw  up  loose  soil  in  heaps  at  intervals,  and  feed  mainly  on  bulbous 
roots^  See  Coues  and  Allen,  Monogr.  N.  A.  AW.ntia.  410,  Washington,  1S77. 
pp.  612-614,  623-625.  ''' 


33S?i. 


ii 


364        JERUSALEM   ARTICHOKES— BURNING   BLUFFS. 

artichokes,  which  the  mice  collect  and  hoard  in  large 
numbers.  The  root  is  white,  of  an  ovate  form,  from  one  to 
three  inches  long,  and  generally  of  the  size  of  a  man's  finger, 
and  two,  four,  and  sometimes  six  roots  are  attached  to  a 
single  stalk.  Its  flavor  as  well  as  the  stalk  which  issues 
from  it  resemble  those  of  the  Jerusalem  artichoke,'"  except 
that  the  latter  is  much  larger."  A  larger  beaver  was  caught 
in  a  trap  last  night,  and  the  mosquitoes  begin  to  trouble  us. 

April  \Qth.  We  again  set  off  early  with  clear,  pleasant 
weather,  and  halted  about  ten  o'clock  for  breakfast,  above  a 
sand-bank  which  was  falling  in,  and  near  a  small  willow-island. 
On  both  sides  of  the  Missouri,  after  ascending  the  hills  near 
the  watei,  one  fertile  unbroken  plain  extends  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  reach,  without  a  solitary  tree  or  shrub,  except  in 
moist  situations  or  in  the  steep  declivities  of  hills,  where 
they  are  sheltered  from  the  ravages  of  fire.  At  the  distance 
of  twelve  miles  we  reached  the  lower  point  of  a  bluff  on  the 
south,  which  is  in  some  parts  on  fire  and  throws  out  quan- 
tities of  smoke,  which  has  as  trong  sulphurous  smell,  the 
coal  and  other  appearances  in  the  bluffs  being  like  those 
described  yesterday. 

At  one  o'clock  we  overtook  three  Frenchman,  who  left  the 
fort  a  few  days  before  us,  in  order  to  make  the  first  attempt 
on  this  river  of  hunting  beaver,  which  they  do  by  means  of 
traps.  Their  efforts  promise  to  be  successful ;  for  they  have 
already  caught  twelve,  which  are  finer  than  any  we  have 
ever  seen.  They  mean  to  accompany  us  as  far  as  the 
Yellowstone  river,  in  order  to  obtain  our  protection  against 
the  Assiniboins,  who  might  attack  them. 

'"  Helianthus  tuberosus,  singularly  misnamed  "Jerusalem  artichoke,"  as  it  is 
not  botanically  related  to  the  artichoke,  and  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  city  of 
Zion.  The  plant  belongs  to  the  order  ComposiUt,  and  to  the  same  genus  as  the 
sunflower.  The  word  "  Jerusalem  "  is  here  a  corruption  of  the  Italian  girasole, 
of  which  the  French  tourne-sol  and  the  English  sunflower  (supposed  to  turn 
toward  the  sun)  are  equivalent  in  signification.  Compare  Greek  //A^orptin-of .  of 
same  sense,  but  a  different  word,  which  we  apply  to  a  different  flower  (heliotrope). 

'*  A  curiously  constructed  sentence.  It  means  that  the  plant  named  tastes  like 
the  Jerusalem  artichoke,  and  has  a  similar  but  smaller  stalk  and  root,  Lewis 
D  10. 


A; 


THE   LITTLE  BASIN— FORT  BERTHOLD. 


2G5 


In  the  evening  we  camped  on  a  willow-point  to  the  south,"" 
opposite  a  bluff,  above  which  a  small  creek  falls  in,  and  just 
above  a  remarkable  bend  in  the  river  to  the  southwest, 
which  we  called  the  Little  Basin.  The  low  grounds  which 
we  passed  to-day  possess  more  timber  than  is  usual,  and  are 
wider ;  the  current  is  mode-  (/.  182)  rate,  at  least  not  greater 
than  that  of  the  Ohio  in  high  tides ;  the  banks  fall  in  but 
little;  so  that  navigation,  comparatively  with  that  lower 
down  the  Missouri,  is  safe  and  easy.  We  were  enabled  to 
make  i8>4  miles.  We  saw  the  track  of  a  large  white  bear; 
there  were  also  a  herd  of  antelopes  in  the  plains  ;  the  geese 
and  swan  were  now  feeding  in  considerable  quantities  on 
the  young  grass  in  the  low  prairies ;  we  shot  a  prairie-hen 
and  a  bald  eagle  [Haliactus  laicoccphalus\  of  which  latter 
there  were  many  nests  in  the  tall  cottonwood  trees;  but 
could  procure  neither  of  two  elk  which  were  in  the  plain. 
Our  old  companions  the  mosquitoes  have  renewed  their 
visits,  and  give  us  much  uneasiness, 

April  wth.  We  set  out  at  daylight,  and  after  passing 
bare  and  barren  hills  on  the  south,  and  a  plain  covered  with 
timber  on  the  north,  breakfasted  at  five  miles'  distance. 
Here  we  were  regaled  with  a  deer  brought  in  by  the  hunters, 
which  was  very  acceptable,  as  we  had  been  for  several  days 

™  Mistake  of  the  text :  "  S.  52'  W.  to  a  point  on  the  Stard.  side,  opposite  a 
bluf,"  etc.,  Lewis  D  14,  and  so  on  the  right  hand,  left  bank  or  north  side  of 
the  river.  The  bluff  and  the  small  creek  are  both  on  the  south  side,  in  Mercer  Co. 
This  is  very  near  the  subsequent  site  of  Fort  Berthold,  which  is  in  lat.  47°  34', 
long.  loio  48',  nearly,  at  the  southeast  angle  of  the  Berthold  Indian  Reservation. 

The  three  Knife  River  villages  were  permanent  from  1796  at  least  till  after 
1837,  when  the  survivors  of  the  epidemic  constituted  one  village  on  Knife  river. 
The  Hidatsas  moved  up  river  in  1845  to  their  present  station,  about  60  miles  by 
river  and  30  by  land,  where  they  were  joined  by  the  Arikaras  in  1862.  This  is 
Fort  Berthold,  where  the  American  Fur  Co.  in  1845  built  a  stockade  named  for  a 
founder  of  this  company,  the  Tyrolese,  Bartholomew  Berthold  (b.  1780,  d.  Apr. 
20th,  1831),  of  St.  Louis.  An  opposition  trading-post  was  built  in  the  village  in 
1859,  named  Fort  Atkinson.  This  was  frozen  out  by  1862,  when  the  American 
Fur  Company  obtained  possession,  and  the  name  of  Berthold  was  transferred  to 
Atkinson.  The  older  stockade  was  burned  by  the  Sioux,  Dec.  24th,  1862,  and 
the  new  one  was  mostly  destroyed  by  fire,  Oct.  12th,  1874.  The  "  Little  Basin  " 
of  the  text  shows  011  any  good  map,  between  Garfield  and  Mercet  Cos. 


':;i»^»- 


il ' 


8S6 


THE  COUNTRY  ABOUT   BEUTHOLD— ALKALI. 


without  fresh  meat ;  the  country  between  this  and  Fort 
Mandan  being  so  frequently  disturbed  by  hunters  that  the 
game  has  become  scarce.  We  then  proceeded  with  a  gentle 
breeze  from  the  south,  which  carried  the  periogues  on  very 
well ;  the  day  was,  however,  so  warm  that  several  of  the  men 
worked  with  no  clothes  except  around  the  waist,  which  is 
the  less  inconvenient,  as  we  are  obliged  to  wade  in  some 
places,  owing  to  the  shallowness  of  the  river.  At  seven 
miles  we  reached  a  large  sand-bar  making  out  from  the 
north.  We  again  stopped  for  dinner,  after  which  we  went 
on  to  a  small  plain  on  the  north  |  in  Garfield  Co.J,  covered 
with  Cottonwood,  where  we  camped,  having  made  19  miles." 
The  country  around  is  much  the  same  as  that  we  passed 
yesterday  ;  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  even  on  the  banks 
of  the  rivers,  as  well  as  on  the  sand-bars,  is  a  white  substance, 
which  appears  in  considerable  quantities  on  the  surface  of 
the  earth,  and  tastes  like  a  mixture  of  common  salt  with 
Glauber's  salts.  Many  of  the  streams  which  come  from  the 
foot  of  the  hills  are  so  strongly  impregnated  with  this  sub- 
(/.  iSj)  stance  that  the  water  has  an  unpleasant  taste  and  a 
purgative  effect."     A  beaver  was  caught  last  night  by  one 


•'  And  haviiitj  passed  to-d.iy  a  stream  from  the  south,  in  Mercer  Co. ,  which 
has  liecn  called  Dancinj;  Hear  creek — a  name  which  some  maps  attach  to  that 
one  from  the  south  near  yesterday's  camp,  in  the  bight  of  the  Little  Uasin. 

Among  the  best  maps  to  go  by,  from  Herthold  and  Stevenson  to  the  Great  Falls, 
are  the  sectional  charts  of  the  Report  of  the  U.  S.  Northern  Boundary  Survey, 
4to,  Washington,  1878,  prepared  under  the  direction  of  the  late  Major  William 
J.  Twining,  Corps  of  Engineers,  U.  S.  A.,  and  Chief  Astronomer  of  the  Survey. 
The  topography  was  done  by  I^ieut.  Francis  V.  Cireene,  U.  S.  T.  E.  The  scale 
is  one  inch  to  eight  miles.  The  Missouri  w.is  charteil  for  these  maps  mainly 
from  observations  during  our  trip  in  Mackinac  boats  from  lienton  to  Bismarck, 
in  the  fall  of  1874.  We  came  over  1,100  traditional  Missouri  river-miles;  the 
actual  distance  was  805  miles.  Miles  made  for  the  carrying-trade  of  the  river 
are  naturally  stretched  to  the  utmost  ;  Lewis  and  Clark's  are  much  more  reliable. 
For  instance,  we  made  the  distance  from  Knife  river  to  .Stevenson  23 14  miles  ; 
thence  to  Berthold,  24 J4  I  thence  to  the  little  Missouri,  23  ;  total,  71  miles.  Lewis 
and  Clark's  estimates  are  wonderfully  close  to  this. 

"  This  is  the  famous  "  alkali "  of  many  parts  of  the  West,  often  rendering  the 
water  undrinkable,  and  whitening  great  areas  like  snow.  It  consists  largely  or 
mainly  of  the  salt  named  (sulpliate  of  soda). 


,_H.' 


WHOOI'INC;  CRANES— THE   LUTIJ'.   MlSSOUUr.       267 

of  the  I'Vcnchmcii ;  wc  killed  two  jjocso,  and  saw  some 
cranes,"  the  lar^jest  bird  of  that  kind  common  to  the  Mis- 
souri and  Mississippi,  perfectly  white  except  the  lari^e 
feathers  on  tiie  first  joint  of  tiie  winj^,  which  are  blaci';. 
Under  a  bluff  opposite  our  camp  we  discovered  some  Indians 
with  horses,  whom  we  supposed  were  Minnetarees,  but  the 
width  of  the  river  prevented  our  speaking  to  them. 

April  12///.  We  set  off  early  and  passed  a  high  range  of 
hills  on  the  south  side,  our  periogues  being  obliged  to  go 
over  to  the  south,  in  order  to  avoid  a  sand-bank  which  was 
rapidly  falling  in.  At  si.\  miles  we  came-to  at  the  lower  side 
of  the  entrance  of  the  Little  Missouri,  where  we  remaim-d 
during  the  day  for  the  purpose  of  making  celestial  obser- 
tions.     [Lewis  D  17  gives  these.] 

This  river  empties  on  the  south  side  of  the  Missouri,  1,693 
miles  from  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi.  It  rises  ti) 
the  west  of  the  Hlack  mountains,  across  the  northern  e.xtrem- 
ity  of  which  it  finds  a  narrow  rapid  passage  along  high  per- 
pendicular banks,  then  seeks  the  Missouri  in  a  northeastern 
direction,  through  a  broken  country  with  highlands  bare  of 
timber,  and  the  low  grounds  particularly  supplied  with  Cot- 
tonwood, elm,  small  ash,  box,  alder,"  and  an  undergrowth 
of  willow,  redwood  (sometimes  called  red  or  swamp  willow), 
red-berry,  and  choke-cherry.  In  its  course  it  passes  near 
the  northwest  side  of  Turtle  mountain,  which  is  said  to 
be  only  12  or  15  miles  from  its  mouth  in  a  straight  line  a 
little  to  the  south  of  west ;  .so  that  both  the  Little  Missouri 
and  Knife  river  have  been  laid  down  too  far  southwest."     It 


■1 


•''  The  great  white  or  whooping  crane,  Grus  americana, 

"  The  expression  "  box,  alder,"  does  not  mean  two  different  plants,  but  is  a 
mistake  for  boxekier,  the  common  name  of  the  ash  leaved  maple,  NegunJo 
accroides,  a  sapindaceous  tree  with  pinnate  leaves,  widely  distributed  and  very 
common  on  the  upper  Missouri.  The  "redwood  "  presently  named  is  probably 
Cotniis  stolon!  fera,  one  of  the  ingredients  of  kinikinik.     See  note',  p.  139. 

■"  The  source  of  the  Little  Missouri  is  stated  with  sufficient  accuracy,  but  its 
general  course  is  more  nearly  north  th.in  northeast,  to  near  the  Missouri,  when  it 
loops  about  east  to  the  l.itter  river.  Note  that  the  Turtle  mountain,  here 
said  to  be  la  or  rs  miles  from  its  mouth,  is  not  the  same  as,  but  ver)-  far  from, 


J 


268 


THE  LITTLE  MISSOURI— DWARF  CEDAR. 


enters  the  Missouri  with  a  bold  current,  and  is  134  yards 
wide,  but  its  greatest  depth  is  two  feet  and  a  half ;  which, 
joined  to  its  rapidity  and  its  sand-bars,  makes  the  navigation 
difficult  except  for  canoes,  which  may  ascend  it  for  a  consid- 
erable distance.  At  the  mouth,  and  as  far  as  we  could 
{p.  184)  discern  from  the  hills  between  the  two  rivers  about 
three  miles  from  their  junction,  the  country  is  much  broken, 
the  soil  consisting  of  a  deep  rich  dark-colored  loam,  inter- 
mixed with  a  small  portion  of  fine  sand,  and  covered  generally 
with  a  short  grass  resembling  blue-grass.  In  its  color,  the 
natur  of  its  bed,  and  its  general  appearance,  it  resembles  so 
much  the  Missouri  as  to  induce  a  belief  that  the  countries 
they  water  are  similar  in  point  of  soil.  From  the  Mandan 
villages  to  this  place  the  country  is  hilly  and  irregular,  with 
the  same  appearance  of  Glauber's  salts  and  carbonated  wood  ; 
the  low  grounds  are  smooth,  sandy,  and  partially  covered  with 
Cottonwood  and  small  ash ;  at  some  distance  back  there  are 
extensive  plains  of  a  good  soil,  but  without  timber  or  water. 

We  found  great  quantities  of  small  onions  [^Allium  sp.?] 
which  grow  single,  the  bulb  of  an  oval  form,  white,  about 
the  size  of  a  bullet,  with  a  leaf  resembling  that  of  the  shive 
[chive].  On  the  side  of  a  neighboring  hill  there  is  a  species 
of  dwarf  cedar  YJuniperus  sabina  var.  procumbens]  ;  it  spreads 
its  limbs  along  the  surface  of  the  earth,  which  it  almost  con- 
ceals by  its  closeness  and  thickness,  and  is  sometimes  covered 
by  it ;  having  always  a  number  of  roots  on  the  under  side, 
while  on  the  upper  are  a  quantity  of  shoots  which,  with  their 
leaves,  seldom  rise  higher  than  six  or  eight  inches ;  it  is  an 
evergreen,  and  its  leaf  is  more  delicate  than  that  of  the  com- 
mon cedar,  though  the  taste  and  smell  are  the  same. 

The  country  around  has  been  so  recently  hunted  that  the 

that  Turtle  mountain  which  bestrides  the  4gth  parallel  east  of  Mouse  river,  on 
the  northern  border  of  N.  Dakota.  The  general  course  of  the  Little  Missouri  is 
approximately  parallel  with  that  of  Powder  river,  a  branch  of  the  Yellowstone  ; 
and  if  it  went  due  north,  instead  of  bearing  eastward,  it  would  strike  about  the 
mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  ;  but  its  mouth  is  in  Williams  Co,  One  Indian  name 
of  it  is  Wakpa  Chan  Shoka,  meaning  heavily  wooded  river ;  another  is  given  as 
£-wdh-tark',  ah-zhah,  Clark  C  249. 


.v» 


ONION  AND   GOOSE  CREEKS. 

game  is  extremely  shy,  so  that  a  white  rabbit  ^Lepus  cam- 
pcstris],  two  beaver,  a  deer,  and  a  bald  eagle  [Haliaetus  leu- 
cocephalus\  were  all  that  we  could  procure.  The  weather 
had  been  clear,  warm,  and  pleasant  in  the  morning,  but 
about  three  we  had  a  squall  of  high  wind  and  rain,  with  some 
thunder,  which  lasted  till  after  sunset,  when  it  cleared  off. 

April  \ith.     We  set  out  at  sunrise,  and  at  nine  o'clock, 
having  the  wind  in  our  favor,  went  on  rapidly  past  a  timbered 
low  ground  on  the  south,  and  a  creek  on  the  north  at  the 
distance  of  nine  miles,  which  we  called  [Wild]  Onion"  creek, 
from   (/>.  185)  the  quantity  of  that  plant  which  grows  in 
the  plains  near  it.     This  creek  is  about  16  yards  wide  at  a 
mile  and  a  half  above  its  mouth  ;  it  discharges  more  water 
than  is  usual  for  creeks  of  that  size  in  this  country,  but  the 
whole  plain  which  it  waters  is  totally  destitute  of  timber. 
The  Missouri  itself  widens  very  remarkably  just  above  the 
junction   with   the  Little    Missouri.      Immediately  at   the 
entrance  of  the  latter  it  is  not  more  than  200  yards  wide, 
and  so  shallow  that  it  may  be  passed  in  canoes  with  setting- 
poles,  while  a  few   miles   above   it    is   upward  of  a    mile 
in  width.     Ten    miles  beyond   Onion   creek   we  came   to 
another,  discharging  itsdf  on  the  north  in  the  center  of  a 
deep  ben        On  ascending  it  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  we 
found  it  to  be  the  discharge  of  a  pond  or  small  lake,  which 
seemed  to  have  been  once  the  bed  of  the  Missouri.     Near 
this  lake  were  the  remains  of  43  temporary  lodges  which 
seemed  to   belong  to  the  Assiniboins,  who  are  now  on  the 
river  of  the  same  name. 

A  great  number  of  swan  and  geese  were  also  in  it ;  from 
this  circumstance  we  named    the   creek  Goose "  creek,  and 

"  So  Lewis  D  23.  and  Clark's  map,  1814  ;  Ognion  R.,  Lapie's  map,  1S21  ; 
L'eau  qui  .Monte,  Heap  ;  Rising  creek,  Stevens  ;  Tide  creek,  Warren  ;  I'ride 
creek,  (1.  L.  O.  map,  1879;  charted  on  Twining's  and  the  Milit.  map  of 
Dakota,  hut  nameless.     It  is  in  Garfield  (lately  a  part  of  Stevens)  Co. 

"  "  This  lake  and  it's  discharge  we  call  goos  Egg,"  Lewis  D  24  ;  Goose-egg 
lake  of  the  Summary  Statement  ;  charted  on  Clark's  map,  nameless  ;  Cold 
Spring  lake,  Reynolds  ;  Sparrow  creek,  Stevens  ;  now  Shell  creek,  in  Garfield  Co. 
There  have  been  great  vicissitudes  of  the  Missouri  about  its  mouth.     The  birds 


I 


.  »--*■•■ 


I 


370 


GOOSE  LAKE— GEESE  AND  OTHER  GAME. 


51 


the  lake  by  the  same  name.  These  geese  we  observe  do 
not  build  their  nests  on  the  ground  or  in  the  sand-bars,  but 
in  the  tops  of  the  lofty  Cottonwood  trees.  We  saw  some  elk 
and  buffalo  to-day,  but  at  too  great  a  distance  to  obtain  any 
of  them,  though  a  number  of  the  carcasses  of  the  latter 
animal  are  strewed  along  the  shore,  having  fallen  through  the 
ice  and  been  swept  along  when  the  river  broke  up.  More 
bald  eagles  are  seen  on  this  part  of  the  Missouri  than  we 
have  previously  met  with ;  the  small  sparrow-hawk  \_Falco 
s'>im'crius],  common  in  most  parts  of  the  United  States,  is 
a'so  found  here.  Great  quantities  of  geese  are  feeding  on 
the  prairies,  and  one  flock  of  white  brant,  or  geese  with 
black  [-tipped]  wings,  and  some  gray  brant  with  them,  pass 
up  the  river ;  from  their  flight  they  seem  to  proceed  much 
further  to  the  northwest.  We  killed  two  antelopes,  which 
were  very  lean,  and  caught  last  night  two  beavers.  The 
French  hunters,  who  had  procured  seven,  thinking  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Little  Missouri  a  {p.  186)  convenient  hunt- 
ing  ground  for  that  animal,  remained  behind  there.  In  the 
evening  we  camped  on  a  beautiful  plain  on  the  north,  30 
feet  above  the  river,  having  made  22^  miles." 

April  14/A.  We  set  off  early  with  pleasant  and  fair 
weather.  A  dog  joined  us,  which  we  supposed  had  strayed 
from  the  Assiniboin  camp  on  the  lake.  At  2%  miles  we 
passed  timbered  low  grounds  and  a  small  creek.     In  these  low 

were  the  common  wild  or  Canada  goose,  Bernicla  canadensis.  I  confirmed  the 
statement  of  their  breeding  in  trees  wlien  I  passed  this  point  on  the  river  in  1874. 
Geese  are  wise  birds,  which  know  enough  to  get  out  of  the  way  of  wolves, 
foxes,  and  badgers.  Lewis  and  Clark's  statement  of  their  arl)oreal  nidification 
used  to  be  much  criticised,  and  discredited.  See  my  Birds  N.W.,  1874,  P-  555- 
'*  Hut  not  without  imminent  danger.  "  .\  sudden  squall  of  wind  struck  us  and 
turned  the  perogue  so  much  on  the  side  as  to  allarm  Sharbono  who  was  steering 
at  the  time,  in  this  state  of  alarm  he  threw  the  perogue  with  her  side  to  the  wind, 
when  the  spritsail  giliing  was  as  near  overseting  the  perogue  as  it  was  possible  to 
have  missed.  .  .  I  ordered  Drewyer  to  the  helm,"  etc.,  Lewis  D  22.  This  boat 
had  on  board  the  papers,  instruments,  metlicines,  and  the  most  valuable  part  of 
the  merchandise  ;  to  say  nothing  of  both  the  captains,  three  men  who  could  not 
swim,  Sacajawea,  and  the  baby — the  helmsman  being  the  only  part  of  the  lad- 
ing that  might  have  been  lost  without  inconvenience. 


T1' 


i 


LOCAL  OPTION  AMONG  ASSINIHOINS, 


271 


grounds  are  several  uninhabited  lodges  built  with  the  boughs 
of  the  elm,  and  the  remains  of  two  recent  camps,  which, 
from  the  hoops  of  small  kegs  found  in  them,  we  judged 
could  belong  to  Assiniboins  only,  as  they  are  the  only  Mis- 
souri Indians  who  use  spirituous  liquors.  Of  these  they  are 
so  passionately  fond  that  it  forms  their  chief  inducement  to 
visit  the  British  on  the  Assiniboin,  to  whom  they  barter  for 
kegs  of  rum  their  dried  and  pounded  meat,  their  grease,  and 
the  skins  of  brge  and  small  wolves  and  small  foxes."  The 
dangerous  exchange  is  transported  to  their  camps  with  their 
friends  and  relations,  and  soon  exhausted  in  brutal  intoxica- 
tion.  So  far  from  considering  drunkenness  as  disgraceful, 
the  women  and  children  are  permitted  and  invited  to  share 
in  these  excesses  with  their  husbands  and  fathers,  who  boast 
how  often  their  skill  and  industry  as  hunters  have  supplied 
them  with  the  means  of  intoxication.  In  this,  as  in  their 
other  habits  and  customs,  they  resemble  the  Sioux,  from 
whom  they  are  descended.  The  trade  with  the  Assiniboins 
and  Knistenaux  is  encouraged  by  the  British,  because  it 
procures  provision  for  their  cngagh  on  their  return  from 
Rainy  lake  to  the  English  river  and  the  Athabasky  [Atha- 
basca or  Athapasca]  countr>',  where  they  winter,  these  men 
being  obliged  during  that  voyage  to  pass  rapidly  through 
a  country  scantily  supplied  with  game. 

We  halted  for  dinner  near  a  large  village  of  burrowing- 
squirrels,"  which  we  observed  generally  selected  a  south- 
easterly exposure,  though  they  are  sometimes  found  on  the 
plains.     At   10^  miles  we  came  to  the  lower  point  of  an 

"  The  great  gray  wolf,  Canis  lupus  occidentalis  ;  the  coyote  or  prairie-wolf, 
Caiiis  latrans;  and  the  kit  or  swift  fox,  Vulpes  velox. 

'"  This  name  is  applied  to  any  of  the  spermophiies  met  with  along  the  river 
(seldom,  however,  to  the  prairie-dog,  which  the  authors  call  "barking-squirrel  "). 
The  most  abundant  spermophiies  on  the  upper  Missouri,  and  thence  through 
the  Milk  river  region,  are  Spermophilus  richardsoni,  a  tawny,  whole-colored 
species  not  distantly  resembling  a  prairie-dog,  but  lighter  colored  and  smaller, 
with  a  very  short  tail ;  and  S.  tridtcemlineatus  pallidus,  a  pale  variety  of  the 
thirteen-lined,  leopard,  or  federation  spermophile.  (See  note  at  date  of  July  8th, 
boyond.)    All  such  animals  are  "gophers"  in  the  local  vernacular. 


i     , 


272 


SUNDAY    ISLAND— CHABONEAU'S   CREEK. 


;    ^ 


(/>.  187)  island,  which,  from  the  day  of  our  arrival  there,  we 
called  Sunday  island.  Here  the  river  washes  the  bases  of 
the  hills  on  both  sides  and  above  the  island,  which,  with  its 
sand-bar,  extends  i  ^^  miles.  Two  small  creeks  fall  in  from 
the  south  ;  the  uppermost  of  these,  which  is  the  largest,  we 
called  Chaboneau's  creek,"  after  our  interpreter,  who  once 
camped  on  it  several  weeks  with  a  party  of  Indians.  Beyond 
this  no  white  man  had  ever  been  e.xcept  two  Frenchmen,  one 
of  whom  (Lapage)  is  with  us,  and  who,  having  lost  their  way, 
straggled  a  few  miles  further,  though  to  what  point  we  could 
not  ascertain.  About  \yi  miles  ;j>;yond  this  island  we 
camped  on  a  point  of  woodland  on  the  north,  having  made 
in  all  14  miles. 

The  Assiniboins  have  so  recently  left  the  river  that  game 
is  scarce  and  shy.  One  of  the  hunters  shot  at  an  otter  last 
evening ;  a  buffalo  was  killed,  and  an  elk,  both  so  poor  as  to 
be  almost  unfit  for  use  ;  two  white  bears  were  also  seen,  and 
a  muskrat  [Fiier  zibctkicus]  swimming  across  the  river.  The 
river  continues  wide  and  of  about  the  same  rapidity  as  the 
ordinary  current  of  the  Ohio.  The  low  grounds  are  wide,  the 
moister  parts  containing  timber ;  the  upland  is  extremely 
broken,  without  wood,  and  in  some  places  seems  as  if  it  had 
slipped  down  in  masses  of  several  acres  in  surface.  The  min- 
eral appearance  of  salts,  coal,  and  sulphur,  with  the  burnt  hill 
and  pumice-stone,  continue,  and  a  bituminous  water  about 
the  color  of  strong  lye,  with  the  taste  of  Glauber's  salts  and 
a  slight  tincture  of  alum.  Many  geese  were  feeding  in  the 
prairies,  and  a  number  of  magpies,  which  build  their  nests 
much  like  those  of  the  blackbird,  in  trees,  and  composed  of 
small  sticks,  leaves,  and  grass,  open  at  the  top ;  the  egg  is  of 
a  bluish-brown  color,  freckled  with  reddish-brown  spots.  We 
also  killed  a  large  hooting-owl  resembling  that  of  the  United 
States  [Biido  virginianus^  except  that  it  was  more  booted 
and  clad  with  feathers.    On  the  hills  are  many  aromatic  herbs,^* 

"  Called  "  Sharbons"  creek,  in  Gass,  p.  78  ;  Sharbono's,  Lewis  D  31,  32,  Us. 
It  looks  like  a  large  river  on  Clark's  map  of  1S14,  but  I  can  find  nothiny;  on 
present  charts  with  wh'ch  to  identify  it. 

•'  Lewis  D  2g  has:  "resembling  in   taste,  smel   and  appearance,  the  sage, 


mffm 


SAGE-BRUSH— A   LARGE   ISLAND. 


273 


resembling  in  taste,  smell,  and  appearance  the  sage,  hyssop, 
wormwood,  southernwood,  juniper,  and  dwarf  cedar;  a  plant 
also  about  two  or  {p.  1S8)  three  feet  high,  similar  to  the  cam- 
phor in  smell  and  taste ;  and  another  plant  of  the  same  size, 
with  a  long,  narrow,  smooth,  soft  leaf,  of  an  agreeable  smell 
and  flavor,  which  is  a  favorite  food  of  the  antelope,  whose 
necks  are  often  perfumed  by  rubbing  against  it. 

April  it,th.  We  proceeded  under  a  fine  breeze  from  the 
south,  and  with  clear,  pleasant  weather.  At  seven  miles  we 
reached  the  lower  point  of  an  island,"  in  a  bend  to  the  south, 
which  is  two  miles  in  length.  Captain  Clark,  who  went  about 
nine  miles  northward  from  the  river,  reached  the  high  grounds, 
which,  like  those  we  have  seen,  are  level  plains  without  tim- 
ber. Here  he  observed  a  number  of  drains,  which,  descending 
from  the  hills,  pursue  a  northeast  course,  and  probably  empty 
into  Mouse  river,  a  branch  of  the  Assiniboin,  which  from 
Indian  accounts  approaches  very  near  to  the  Missouri  at  this 
place."  Like  all  the  rivulets  of  this  neighborhood  these 
drains  are  so  strongly  impregnated  with  mineral  salts  that 
they  are  not  fit  to  drink.  He  saw  also  the  remains  of  several 
camps  of  Assiniboins.  The  low  grounds  on  both  sides  of  the 
river  are  extensive,  rich,  and  level.     In  a  little  pond  on  the 


ii     ^ 


hysop,  wormwood,  southernwood,  and  two  other  herbs,"  where  the  punctuation 
of  the  codex,  as  of  the  text,  makes  ambiguity.  I  do  not  read  here  four  different 
plants,  but  one  plant  which  resembles  these.  The  commonest  sage-brush  in  the 
West  is  ArUmisia  tridentata,  which  we  may  suppose  here  meant.  A.  abrotanum 
is  a  S.  European  sage  or  wormwotxl,  often  cultivated  in  our  gardens  under  the 
name  of  southernwood.  The  juniper  is  perhaps  Juniperus  communis  ;  the 
dwarf  cedar  hj.  sabina  var.  procumbens,  above  described  and  determined  ;  the 
camphor-like  plant,  and  the  other  aromatic  one.  remain  to  be  identified. 

"  There  is  a  very  large  island — large  enough  to  be  indicated  on  the  U.  S.  Geol. 
Surv.  contour-map,  and  conspicuous  on  Twining's — six  or  eight  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Little  Knife  river,  and  thus  in  about  the  place  of  this  one. 

**  The  Mouse  river  does  in  fact  approach  the  Missouri,  where  it  first  strikes 
the  parallel  of  49°  N.  lat.,  though  the  approach  is  far  from  being  so  near  as  that 
which  the  loop  of  the  Mouse  river  makes  toward  the  Missouri  about  Fort  Steven- 
son. The  apprciimation  is  certainly  not  such  as  the  text  indicates,  and  noth- 
ing like  what  is  legended  on  Clark's  map  ("one  mile").  We  must  remember 
that  this  consummate  geographer  never  laid  eyes  on  Mouse  river,  and  could  only 
make  conjectures  as  to  its  true  course.     See  note  '^,  p.  261. 


274 


SHARP-TAILED  GROUSE— GOAT-PEN  CREEK. 


ii 


north  we  heard  for  the  first  time  this  season  the  croaking  of 
frogs,  which  exactly  resembles  that  of  the  small  frogs  in  the 
United  States.  There  are  also  in  these  plains  great  quanti- 
ties of  geese,  and  many  of  the  [sharp-tailed]  grouse,  or  prairie- 
hen,  as  they  are  called  by  the  Northwest  Company's  traders ; 
the  note  of  the  male,  as  far  as  words  can  represent  it,  is  cook, 
cook,  cook,  coo,  coo,  coo,  the  first  part  of  which  both  male 
and  female  use  when  flying ;  the  male  too  drums  with  his 
wings  when  he  flies  in  the  same  way,  though  not  so  loud,  as 
the  pheasant ;  "  they  appear  to  be  mating.  Some  deer,  elk, 
and  goats  were  in  the  low  grounds,  and  buffalo  on  the  sand- 
beaches,  but  they  were  uncommonly  shy;  we  also  saw  a  black 
bear  and  two  white  ones.  At  1 5  miles  we  passed  on  the 
north  side  a  small  creek  20  yards  wide,  which  we  called 
Goat-pen  creek,"  from  a  park  or  inclosure  for  the  purpose 
of  catching  that  animal  which  those  who  went  up  the  creek 
found  (/>.  /<Sp),  and  which  we  presume  to  have  been  left 
by  the  Assiniboins.  Its  water  is  impregnated  with  min- 
eral salts,  and  the  country  through  which  it  flows  consiscs 
of  wide  and  very  fertile  plains,  but  without  any  trees. 
We  camped  at  the  distance  of  23  miles,  on  a  sand-point  to 
the  south.  We  passed  in  the  evening  a  rock  in  the  middle 
of  the  river,  the  channel  of  which,  a  little  above  our  camp, 
is  confined  within  80  yards. 

A/>n7  i6t/t.  The  morning  was  clear,  the  wind  light  from 
the  S.E.  The  country  presents  the  same  appearance  of 
low  plains  and  meadows  on  the  river,  bounded  a  few  miles 
back  by  broken  hills,  which  end  in  high  level  fertile  lands ; 
the  quantity  of  timber  is  however  increasing.  The  appear- 
ances of  minerals  continue  as  usual,  and  to-day  we  found 
several  stones  which  seem  to  have  been  wood,  first  car- 
bonated, and  then  petrified  by  the  water  of  the  Missouri, 

•'  The  ruffed  grouse,  Bonasa  umbellus,  always  called  pheasant  in  Captain 
Lewis'  Virginian  home. 

'•  So  on  Clark's  map,  1814  ;  but  the  name  does  not  occur  in  Lewis  D  33-36  of 
thv-.  date.  The  Little  Knife  or  Upper  Knife  river  falls  into  the  Missouri  from  the 
north,  in  Mountraille  Co.,  55  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Missouri, 
and  thus  corresponds  to  Goat-pen  creek. 


A; 


HALL'S  STRAND  AND  OTHER  CREEKS.  275 

whfch  has  the  same  effect  on  many  vegetable  substances 
Tl>ere  .s  indeed  reason  to  beh'eve  that  the  strata  of  coalTn 
the  h.lls  cause  the  fire,  and  appearances  which  they  exh  b  " 

se  vt'Tn  thT;^'ff  "^'r'"  ''^'^  "^^^'^^  P--"^  thin  ! 
selves  m  the  bluffs  on  the  river,  the  coal  is  seldom  seen  • 

rtir  tt    r1  '"  ''k  "^l^'^b-hood  of  the  strata  of  b"   t' 
earth    the    coal,   w.th    the   sand   and   sulphurous  matter 
usually  accompanying  it.  is  precisely  at  the  same  height 
and  nearly  of  the  same  thickness  with  those  st^ta      We 
pa  sed  three  small  creeks  »  or  rather  runs,  which  rise  in  7hl 
h.lls  to  the  north.     Numbers  of  geese  ;nd  a  f ew  d  ct 
ch.efly  the   mallard    [Anas  boscas]   and   blue-winged  te.i 
[Q>.r,ueduia  discors],  many  buffalo,  elk.  and  deer  were  al" 
observed;  and  in  the  timbered  low  grounds  this  mornig 
we   were   surprised  to   observe   a   great   quantity   of  oil 
hornet  ts      We  camped  in  a  point  o'f  wood^s  [11 

Pomt.  of  Gass]  on  the  south,  having  come  .8  miles,  though 
the  c.rcu.ts  wh.ch  we  were  obliged  to  make  around  sand 
bars  very  much  increased  the  real  distance 

April  ,jth  We  set  off  early,  the  weather  being  fine 
and  the  w.nd  so  favorable  as  to  enable  us  to  sail  the  (  f  jno\ 
greater  part  of  the  course.  At  lo^  miles  we  pitd'  i 
creek  ten  yards  wide  on  the  south  ;  a1 18  miles  a  liul     ru' 

the  south.       We  had  traveled  26  miles  through  a  countrv 
s.m.lar  to  that  of  yesterday,  except  that  there  were  greae^ 

lava  and  pum.ce-stone.  of  the  last  of  which  we  observe 

S,l'!l"""T,''l'.'"  ""'   '""'  °^  '^''  '''"^-     One  of  them  is  called  "Hall 
k         '  Hairs    :      TTv^""'  r'°^^  ^°^'-P^"  "'=^'')-  -'^  «'-  -  Lapilt,  z 

r.h    "ve  ;     """  '':  .'^'"^"'"""-     O"^  °f  ">-«  ^'--^  i    the  Whi  " 

Knt     h  .1  """  ""''"■  '^^  """  ''y  '"''  '^"^'^  »he  mouth  of  the  Li,   e 
A,^»,t  ,      "  r'  :''  '''"■'^^"''^  "^^■-  "f  Lewis  and  Clark,  for  which  se 

In  Wallace  Co. ;  across  the  river  is  Flannery  Co.     No  names  in  Lewis  D  for 

^^  ea::;t'er°  f  "^'''  7'  'T  '''  "°^''''  ^^'--"  Hall's  strtn:  ^nd  th 
^^  hne-earth  nver  of  our  text  (now  Muddy  river) ;  only  a  trace,  unlettered    for  one 
creek  from  the  south.     (Examine  Dry  Fork  and  Reed  liotto.n  of  Steven's.) 


f 

f 

1 

/^ 

1 

i 

1    1 

1 

fi 


276     THE  MISSOURI   CROOKED— TEDIOUS  PROGRESS. 

some  pieces  floating  down  the  river,  as  we  had  previously 
done  as  low  as  the  Little  Missouri.  In  all  the  copses  of 
wood  are  remains  of  the  Assiniboin  camps;  around  us  are 
great  quantities  of  game,  such  as  herds  of  buffalo,  elk, 
antelopes,  some  deer  and  wolves,  and  the  tracks  of  bears  ; 
a  curlue  [curlew,  Ntimenius  longirostris]  was  also  seen,  and 
we  obtained  three  beavers,  the  flesh  of  which  is  more 
relished  by  the  men  than  any  other  food  which  we  have. 
Just  before  we  camped  we  saw  some  tracks  of  Indians,  who 
had  passed  24  hours  before  and  left  four  rafts,  and  whom 
we  supposed  to  be  a  band  of  Assiniboins  on  their  return 
from  war  against  the  Indians  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

April  i8t/i.  We  had  again  a  pleasant  day,  and  pro- 
ceeded with  a  westerly  wind,  which,  however,  changed  to 
the  N.W.  and  blew  so  hard  that  we  were  obliged  to  stop  at 
one  o'clock  and  remain  four  hours,  when  it  abated  and  we 
then  continued  our  course. 

We  camped  about  dark  on  a  woody  bank,  having  made 
13  miles."  The  country  presented  the  usual  variety  of 
highlands  interspersed  with  rich  plains.  In  one  of  these 
we  observed  a  species  of  pea  bearing  a  yellow  flower,  which 
is  now  in  blossom,  the  leaf  and  stalk  resembling  the  com- 
mon pea.  It  seldom  rises  higher  than  six  inches,  and  the 
root  is  perennial.  On  the  rose-bushes  we  also  saw  a  quantity 
of  the  hair  of  the  buffalo,  which  had  become  perfectly  white 
by  exposure  and  resembled  the  wool  of  the  sheep,  except 
that  it  was  much  finer  and  more  soft  and  silky.  A  buffalo 
which  we  killed  yesterday  had  shed  his  long  hair,  and  that 
which  remained  was  about  two  inches  long,  thick,  (/.  iqi) 
fine,  and  would  have  furnished  five  pounds  of  wool,  of 
which  we  have  no  doubt  an  excellent  cloth  may  be  made. 
Our  game  to-day  was  a  beaver,  a  deer,  an  elk,  and  some 
geese.  The  river  has  been  crooked  all  day  and  bearing 
toward  the  south. 


"  The  crookedness  of  the  Missouri  along  here  makes  many  miles  of  naviga- 
tion for  comparatively  little  advance.  The  Expedition  has  not  yet  reached  the 
mouth  of  Muddy  river  (Whiteearth  river  of  our  text). 


WIND-BOUND— LITTLE  ADVANCE   MADE.  277 

On  the  hills  we  observed  considerable  quantities  of  dwarf 
jumper,  which  seldom  grows  higher  than  three  feet.  Wc 
killed  m  the  course  of  the  day  an  elk,  three  geese,  and  a 
beaver.  The  beaver  on  this  part  of  the  Missouri  are  in 
greater  quantities,  larger  and  fatter,  and  their  fur  is  more 
abundant  and  of  a  darker  color,  than  any  we  have  hitherto 
seen.  Their  favorite  food  seems  to  be  the  bark  of  the 
Cottonwood  and  willow,  as  we  have  seen  no  other  species  of 
tree  that  has  been  touched  by  them,  and  these  they  gnaw  to 
the  ground  through  a  diameter  of  20  inches. 

The  next  day,  Friday,  April  igth,  the  wind  was  so  high 
from  the  northwest  that  we  could  not  proceed  ^  but  beine 
less  violent  on 

April  20th,  we  set  off  about  seven  o'clock,  and   nearly 
lost  one  of  the  canoes  as  we  left  the  shore,  by  the  falling  in 
of  a  large  part  of  the  bank.     The  wind  became  again  so 
strong  that  we  could  scarcely  make  one  mile  an  hour,  and 
the  sudden  squalls  so  dangerous  to  the  small  boats  that  wc 
stopped  for  the  night  among  some  willows  on  the  north  *' 
not  bemg  able  to  advance  more  than  Cyi  miles.     In  walking 
through  the  neighboring  plains  we  found  a  fine  fertile  soil 
covered   with  cottonwood,  some   box-elder,  ash  [Fraxinus 
vtrtdts  ?\   red   elm,  and   an   undergrowth  of  willow,  rose- 
bushes, honeysuckle,  red  willow  \_Corniis  stolonifcra],  goose- 
berry, currant,  and    service-berries  iAviclanchicr  alnifoliaA 
and   along  the  foot  of  the  hills  great  quantities  of  hyssop 
[Artemtsta  sp.].     Our  hunters  procured  elk  and  deer,  which 
are  now  lean,  and  six  beaver,  which  are  fatter  and  more 
palatable. 

Along  the  plain  there  were  also  some  Indian  camps  ;  near 
one  of  these  was  a  scaffold  about  seven  feet  high,  on  which 
were  two  sleds  with  their  harness,  and  under  it  the  body  of 
a  female,  carefully  wrapped  ii^   several  (/.  192)  dressed   buf- 

S/^'^^I^aT  ^u^  ^'"''  ^  '"'""'  °"'  '°  '••'  ^'"^-  ^hich  I   found  very  high, 
much  washed  by  the  ram,  and  without  grass.     I  saw  part  of  a  log  quite  petriffed 
and  of  wh.ch  good  whetstones  or  hones  could  be  made."  Gass.  p  79,  Apr     gth 
'At  th,s  point  the  Expedition  has  hardly  passed  Flannery  and  Wallace  Cos  ' 
but  next  camps  on  the  north  are  in  Buford  Co.,  with  Allred  Co.  across  the  river' 


f^moAdGB 


278      A   NAMELLSS  SCAFFOLD — WHITE-EARTiI    RIVER. 

falo-skins ;  near  it  lay  a  bag  made  of  buffalo-skin,  containing 
a  pair  of  moccasins,  some  red  and  blue  paint,  beavers'  nails, 
scrapers  for  dressing  hides,  some  dried  roots,  several  plaits 
of  sweet  grass,  and  a  small  quantity  of  Mandan  tobacco. 
These  things,  as  well  as  the  body  itself,  had  probably  fallen 
down  by  accident,  as  the  custom  is  to  place  them  on  the 
scaffold.  At  a  little  distance  was  the  body  of  a  dog  not  yet 
decayed,  who  had  met  this  reward  for  having  dragged  thus 
far  in  the  sled  the  corpse  of  his  mistress,  to  whom  according 
to  the  Indian  usage  he  had  been  sacrificed. 

April  2\st.  Last  night  there  was  a  hurd  white  frost,  and 
this  morning  the  weather  was  cold,  but  clear  and  pleasant ; 
in  the  course  of  the  day,  however,  it  became  cloudy  and  the 
wind  rose.  The  country  is  of  the  same  description  as  within 
the  few  last  days.  We  saw  immense  quantities  of  buffalo, 
elk,  deer,  antelopes,  geese,  and  some  swans  and  ducks,  out 
of  which  we  procured  three  deer  and  four  buffalo  calves, 
which  last  are  equal  in  flavor  to  the  most  delicious  veal ;  also 
two  beaver  and  an  otter.  We  passed  one  large  and  two 
small  creeks  on  the  south  side,  and  reached  at  l6  [^]  miles 
the  mouth  of  Whiteearth"  [White  Clay  in  Gass]  river,  coming 
in  from  the  north. 

This  river,  before  it  reaches  the  low  grounds  near  the 
Missouri,  is  a  fine  bold  stream,  60  yards  wide,  and  is  deep 
and  navigable  ;  but  it  is  so  much  choked  up  at  the  entrance 
by  the  mud  of  the  Missouri  that  its  mouth  is  not  more  than 
ten  yards  wide.  Its  course,  as  far  as  we  could  discern  from 
the  neighboring  hills,  is  nearly  due  north,"  passing  through 

^'  Not  that  so  called  on  present  maps,  but  the  river  now  named  Little 
Muddy,  or  simply  Muddy  ;  the  last  considerable  stream  before  the  Yellowstone 
is  reached,  in  Buford  Co. ;  Williston  at  its  mouth,  on  Gr.  Northern  Ry. 

"From  the  Missouri,  i.  f.,  flowing  due  south  to  the  Missouri.  (See  back 
Apr.  i6th,  17th.  i8th,  and  notes  there.)  White-earth  or  White  Earth  river 
is  a  prairie  stream,  heading  in  the  Coteau  du  Missouri  near  49°,  and  thus  near 
the  course  of  the  Mouse  river,  where  the  latter  crosses  this  parallel  of  latitude. 
It  is  the  most  considerable  stream  which  has  fallen  into  the  Missouri  from 
the  N.  or  E.  for  many  miles.  It  is  not  to  be  confounded  with  two  "  Muddy" 
rivers,  the  Little  and  Big,  which  fall  into  the  Missouri  on  the  same  side,  but 
both  in  Montana  (above  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone). 


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WHITE-EARTH    RIVER— CUT  BLUFF. 


979 


a  beautiful  and  fertile  valley,  thou^jh  without  a  tree  or  bush 
of  any  description.  Half  a  mile  [two  miles]  beyond  this  river 
we  camped  on  the  same'*  [opposite]  side  below  a  point  of 
highland,  which  from  its  appearance  we  called  Cut  bluff. 

A/>n7  22d.  The  day  clear  and  cold.  We  passed  a  high 
bluff  on  the  north,  and  plains  on  the  south,  in  which  were 
large  herds  of  buffalo,  till  breakfast,  when  the  wind  became 
so  strong  ahead  that  we  proceeded  with  difficulty  even  with 
(*•  193)  the  aid  of  the  towline.  Some  of  the  party  now 
walked  across  to  the  Whiteearth  river,  which  here,  at  the 
distance  of  four  miles  from  its  mouth,  approaches  very  near 
to  the  Missouri.  It  contains  more  water  than  is  usual  in 
streams  of  the  same  size  at  this  season,  with  steep  banks 
about  ten  or  twelve  feet  high;  the  water  is  much  cleat  er 
than  that  of  the  Missouri.  The  salts  which  have  been 
mentioned  as  common  on  the  Missouri  are  here  so  abundant 
that  in  many  places  the  ground  appears  perfectly  white,  and 
from  this  circumstance  the  river  may  have  derived  its  name. 
It  waters  an  open  country  and  is  navigable  almost  to  its 
source,  which  is  not  far  from  the  Saskaskawan ;"  judging 
from  its  size  and  course,  it  is  probable  that  it  extends  as  far 
north  as  the  fiftieth  [read  forty-ninth]  degree  of  latitude. 
After  much  delay  in  consequence  of  the  high  wind,  we  suc- 
ceeded in  making  1 1  miles,  and  camped  in  a  low  ground  on 
the  south,  covered  with  cottonwood  and  rabbit-berries. 

The  hills  of  the  Missouri  near  this  place  exhibit  large  irreg- 
ular broken  masses  of  rocks  and  stones,  some  of  which, 
although  200  feet  above  the  water,  seem  at  some  remote 
period  to  have  been  subject  to  its  influence,  being  apparently 

"  "  We  reached  the  place  of  incampment  after  dark,  which  was  on  the  Lard, 
side  a  little  above  lyhite  earth  river.  .  .  .S.  50°  W.  to  the  upper  point  of  the 
timbered  bottom  on  Lard,  side  below  a  high  blufT  point  which  we  called  Cut  bluff, 
—at  \i  mile  pass  White  Earth  river  on  Stard.,"  Lewis  D  46,  47.  This  last  course 
of  the  day,  S.  50"  W.,  was  2|^  miles  long  ;  as  White  Earth  river  was  passed  at 
the  first  %  mile  of  this  course,  Cut  bluff  is  a  point  on  the  south  side,  two  miles 
above  this  river,  in  Allred  Co.,  opposite  Buford  Co. 

"  Read  Mouse  river,  which  the  head  of  the  river  here  described  approaches. 
The  Saskatchewan  is  very  much  further  north  and  west. 


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worn  smooth  by  the  agitation  of  the  water.  These  rocks 
and  stones  consist  of  wiiite  and  {jray  granite,  a  brittle  black 
rock,  flint,  limestone,  freestone,  some  small  specimens  of  an 
excellent  pebble,  and  occasionally  broken  strata  of  a  black- 
colored  stone  like  petrified  wood,  which  makes  good  whe 
stones.  The  usual  appearances  of  coal,  or  carbonated  woot 
and  of  pumice-stone,  still  continue,  the  coal  being  of  a  better 
quality,  and  when  burnt  affording  a  hot  and  lasting  fire,  emit- 
ting very  little  smoke  or  flame.  There  are  large  herds  of 
deer,  elk,  buffalo,  and  antelopes  in  view  of  us  ;  the  buffalo 
are  not  so  shy  as  the  rest,  for  they  suffer  us  to  approach 
within  lOO  yards  before  they  run,  and  then  stop  and  resume 
their  pasture  at  a  very  short  distance.  The  wolves  to-day 
pursued  a  herd  of  them,  and  at  length  caught  a  calf  that 
was  unable  to  keep  up  with  the  rest ;  the  mothers  on  these 
(/>.  ig^)  occasions  defend  their  young  as  long  as  they 
can  retreat  as  fast  as  the  herd,  but  seldom  return  any  dis- 
tance to  seek  for  them. 

April  2id.  A  clear  and  pleasant  mo.  ning  ;  but  at  nine 
o'clock  the  wind  became  so  high  that  the  boats  were  in  da 
ger  of  upsetting.  We  therefore  were  forced  to  stop  at  a  pla^ 
of  safety  till  about  five  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  wind  being 
lower  we  proceeded,  and  camped  on  the  north  at  the  distance 
of  \y/2  miles  [thus  past  Painted  Wood  creek].  The  party 
on  shore  brought  us  a  buffalo  calf  and  three  black-tailed 
deer.  The  sand  on  the  river  has  the  same  appearances  as 
usual,  except  that  the  quantity  of  wood  increases. 

April  24///.  The  wind  blew  so  high  during  the  whole  day 
that  we  were  unable  to  move  ;  such  indeed  was  its  violence 
that,  though  we'  were  sheltered  by  high  timber,  the  waves 
wet  many  articles  in  the  boats.  The  hunters  went  out 
and  returned  with  four  deer,  two  elk,  and  some  young  wolves 
of  the  small  kind. 

The  party  are  very  much  afflicted  with  sore  eyes,  which  we 
presume  to  be  occasioned  by  the  vast  quantities  of  sand 
which  are  driven  from  the  sand-bars  in  such  clouds  as  often 
to  hide  from  us  the  view  of  the  opposite  bank.     The  particles 


*'W1' 


IT 
I 


DISCOVERY   OF  THK   YELLOWSTONE. 


281 


of  this  sand  are  so  fine  and  lif,'ht  that  it  floats  for  miles  in  the 
air,  like  a  column  of  thick  smoke  ;  it  is  so  penetratin^j  that 
nothing  can  be  kept  free  from  it,  and  we  are  compelled  to  eat, 
drink,  and  breathe  it  very  copiously.  To  the  same  cause  we 
attribute  the  disorder  of  one  of  our  watches,"  although  its 
cases  are  double  and  tight  ;  since,  without  any  defect  in  its 
works  that  we  can  discover,  it  will  not  run  for  more  than  a 
few  minutes  without  stopping. 

April  25///.  The  wind  moderated  this  morning,  but  was 
still  high  ;  we  therefore  set  out  early,  the  weather  being 
so  cold  that  the  water  froze  on  the  oars  as  we  rowed ;  but 
about  ten  o'clock  the  wind  increased  so  much  that  we  were 
obliged  to  stop.  This  detention  from  the  wind,  and  the 
reports  from  our  hunters  of  the  crookedness  of  the  river, 
in-  {p.  /pj)  duced  us  to  believe  that  we  were  at  no  great  dis- 
tance from  the  Yellowstone.  In  order, therefore,  to  prevent 
delay  as  much  as  possible,  Captain  Lewis  determined  to  go 
on  by  land  in  search  of  that  river,  and  make  the  necessary 
observations,  so  as  to  be  enabled  to  proceed  immediately 
after  the  boats  shou!  I  join  him.  He  therefore  landed  about 
eleven  o'clock  on  the  south  side,  accompanied  by  four  men  ; 
the  boats  were  prev  nted  from  going  until  five  in  the 
afternoon,  when  they  ,  ^nt  on  a  few  miles  further,  and  we 
camped  for  the  night  at  a  distance  of  14^  miles. 

April  26th.  We  continued  our  voyage  in  the  morning,  and 
by  twelve  o'clock  camped  at  eight  miles'  distance,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone  rivers,  where 
we  were  soon  joined  by  Captain  Lewis. 

On  leaving  us  yesterday  he  pursued  his  route  along  the 
foot  of  the  hills,  which  he  descended  to  the  distance  of  eight 
miles;  from  these  the  wide  plains  watered  by  the  Missouri 
and  the  Yellowstone  spread  themselves  before  the  eye,  occa- 
sionally varied  with  the  wood  of  the  banks,  enlivened  by  the 

*'•  "  Attribute  it  to  the  sand,  with  which  she  seems  perfectly  charged,  notwith- 
standing her  cases  are  double  and  tight,"  Lewis  D  52.  The  codices  generally 
make  their  watches,  chronometers,  sextants,  octants,  guns,  and  rifles,  of  the 
feminine  gender,  as  well  as  their  boats. 


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282 


CONFLUENCE  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE. 


irregular  windings  of  the  two  rivers,  and  animated  by  vast 
herds  of  buffalo,  deer,  elk,  and  antelope.  The  confluence  of 
the  two  rivers  was  concealed  by  the  wood,  but  the  Yellow- 
stone itself  was  only  two  miles  distant,  to  the  south.  He 
therefore  descended  the  hills  and  camped  on  the  bank  of 
the  river,  having  killed,  as  he  crossed  the  plain,  four  buff  does ; 
the  deer  alone  are  shy  and  retire  to  the  woods,  but  the  elk, 
antelope,  and  buffalo  suffered  him  to  approach  them  without 
alarm,  and  often  followed  him  quietly  for  some  distance. 

This  morning  he  sent  a  man  up  the  river  to  e.\amine  it, 
while  he  proceeded  down  to  the  junction.  The  ground  on 
the  lower  side  of  the  Yellowstone  near  its  mouth  is  flat,  and 
for  about  a  mile  seems  to  be  subject  to  inundation  ;  while 
that  at  the  point  of  junction,  as  well  as  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  Missouri,  is  at  the  usual  height  of  10  to  18  feet  above 
the  water,  and  therefore  not  overflowed.  There  is  more 
timber  in  the  neighborhood  of  this  [/>.  ig6)  place,  and  on  the 
Missouri  as  far  below  as  Whiteearth  [Little  Muddy]  river, 
than  on  any  other  part  of  the  Missouri  on  this  side  of  the 
Chayenne.  The  timber  consists  principally  of  cottonwood, 
with  some  small  elm,  ash,  and  box-alder  [box-elder,  Negundo 
accroidcs\  On  the  sand-bars  and  along  the  margin  of  the 
river  grows  the  small-leaved  willow  ( Salix  longifolia\ ;  in 
the  low  grounds  adjoining  are  scattered  rose-bushes,  three  or 
four  feet  high,  the  red-berry  \Shepherdia  argented\,  service- 
berry  \_Amelanchier  a/ni/o/ia],  and  redwood  [Cornus  stofoni 
/era].  The  higher  plains  are  either  immediately  on  the  river 
— in  which  c-ise  they  are  generally  timbered  and  have  an 
undergrowth  like  that  of  the  low  grounds,  with  the  addition 
of  the  broad-leaved  willow,  gooseberry,  choke-cherry  [Primus 
detnissa],  purple  currant  [Ribes  sp.],  and  honeysuckle  |  Loiii- 
cera  involi.crau] — or  they  are  between  the  low  grourds  and 
the  hills,  and  for  the  most  part  without  wood,  or  anything 
except  large  quantities  of  wild  hyssop  [sage-brush,  Artemisia 
sp.].  This  plant  rises  about  two  feet  high,  and,  like  the  willow 
of  the  sand-bars,  is  a  favorite  food  of  the  buffalo,  elk,  deer, 
grouse,  porcupine,  hare,  and  rabbit. 


THE  YELLOWSTONE. 


283 


This  river,  which  had  been  known  to  the  French  as  the 
Roche  jaune.  or  as  we  have  called  it  the  Yellowstone,^'  rises 
accordinjj  to  Indian  information  in  the  Rocky  mountains  ( in 
the  Yellowstone  National  Park] ;  its  sources  are  near  those 
of  the  Missouri  and  [not  so  near  those  of  J  the  Platte;  it  may 
be  navifjated  in  canoes  almost  to  its  head.     It  runs  first 
through  a  mountainous  country,  in  many  parts  fertile  and 
well-timbered  ;  it  then  waters  a  rich,  delijrhtful  land,  broken 
into  valleys  and  meadows,  and  well  supplied  with  wood  and 
water,  till  it  reaches  near  the  Missouri  open   meadows  and 
low  fjrounds,  sufficiently  timbered  on   its  borders.     In  the 
upper  country  its  course  is  represented  as  very  rapid  ;  but 
during  the  two  last  and  largest  portions,  its  current  is  much 
more  gentle  than  that  of  the  Missouri,  which   it  resembles 
also  in  being  turbid,  though  with  less  sediment. 

"  In  Ihc  codices  commonly  the  Yellow  Stone  river-perliaps  .1  reminiscence  of 
the  time  when  the  Missouri  was  la   UivicVe  Jaune  of  the  I'rench,  or  the  \-._ll„vv 
river;    in    (;ass,   "the  river  jaune  or  Yellow  Stone."      The  text  reii.ls   as    it 
the  translation  of  the  Krench  w.is  first  made  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  and  in  this 
l)ass.a-e.     They  are  doulnless  the  real  authors  of  the  now  famous  word  ;    l,ul  it 
certainly  <lid  not  lirst  appear  in  print  in  the  present  connection,  thoiij;h  it  may 
have  l.een  first  penned  in  a  Lewis orClark  MS.      I  have  before  me  an  extremely 
mtcrcstinn  letter,  which  in  my  arrangement  makes  part  of  Codex  S      This  is  no 
other  than  the  ^rst  roui^h  Jmft  of  Lewis'   letter  to  Jefferson,  penned  at  St 
Louis,  Sept.  23d,  i8<j(i-the  .lay  the  Expedition  returned-announcint;  the  happy 
arrival  of  the  party.     It  occupies  p,,.   i-,,  of  the  odex,  is  signed  by   Lewis 
with  hi.s  ofhcial  title,  an.l  .id.iressed  "  The  President  of  the  United  States  "     The 
■locument  is  full   of  interlineations  an.l  erasures,  showing  how   Lewis  studied 
an.lno.loubt  bit  his  pen  in   w.jr.ling  so  important  an  announcement,  a  clean 
copy  of  which  was  t..  go  to  the  fresi.lent.      This  letter  is  followed  by  an..ll.er 
now  fragmentary,   beginning  vtrso   of   the  sheet    on  which    the    former    letter 
ends,  breaking  .>ff  in  the  mi.lst  of   a   sentence,  and  thus  making  pp.    .2-10  nf 
Cxlex  S.     It  is  .lated  St.  Louis.  Stpt.  2lst,  by  a  slip  of  the  pen.  pn.bably  f.,r 
23.1  or  24th.  as  Lewis  was  not  there  till  about  n.wn  of  the  23d.     Here  we  read  ■ 
"at  the.listance  ,.f  18.S8  miles  we  reache.l  the  entrance  .,f  the  Yellow   K.,ck 
river  .m  the  27th  [slip  for  2r,th]  of  Apl.;  "  an.l  presently:   "we  examine.l  the 
c.mntry  minutely  in  the  vicinity  .,f  the  entrance  of  the   River  K.,ghejone  '•-the 
.If  overwritten  for  a  r.  but  its  tail  left  as  long  as  that  .,f  they.      In  the  c..,li.-..s 
passim,  the  wor.l  ranges  fr.m,  Kejoiie,  through  Kejhone.  Rochejone,  R..clieiolin' 
R.)ehejhone.  etc..  to  its  proper  f.)rin. 

At  this  point  the  Lxpe.liti.m  is  305  river-miles  above  Hism.irck,  an.l  5(X)bel,,w 
lienton  ;  lat.  48"  N..  nearly  ;  long.  104'  \V..  nearly  ;  altitu.le  about  2.„<jo  feet. 


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284       JOSEPH   FIELDS  ASCENDED  THE  YELLOWSTONE. 

The  man  '*  who  was  sent  up  the  river  reported  in  the  even- 
ing that  he  had  gone  about  eight  miles ;  that  during  that 
distance  the  river  winds  on  both  sides  of  a  plain  four  or  five 
miles  wide  ;  that  the  current  was  gentle  and  much  obstructed 
by  sand-bars ;  that  at  five  miles  he  had  met  with  a  large  tim- 
bered island,  three  miles  beyond  which  a  (/.  /p7)  creek  *'  falls 
in  on  the  S.E.,  above  a  high  bluff,  in  which  are  several  strata 
of  coal.  The  country,  as  far  as  he  could  discern,  resembled 
that  of  the  Missouri,  and  in  the  plain  he  met  several  of  the 
bighorn  animals  [Ovt's  montand],  but  they  were  too  shy  to 
be  obtained. 

The  bed  of  the  Yellowstone,  as  we  observed  it  near  the 
mouth,  is  composed  of  sand  and  mud,  without  a  stone  of 
any  kind.  Just  above  the  confluence  we  measured  the  two 
rivers,  and  found  the  bed  of  the  Missouri  520  yards  wide, 
the  water  occupying  only  330,  and  the  channel  deep ;  while 
the  Yellowstone,  including  its  sand-bar,  occupied  858  yards, 

They  are  very  nearly  in  the  center  of  a  30-mile  square,  which  extends  for  15 
miles  north  and  south,  and  the  same  east  and  west,  of  the  intersection  of  48°  N. 
with  104°  W.,  and  constitutes  the  Military  Reservation  of  Fort  Buford.  This 
became  a  large  and  important  post,  built  a  couple  of  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Missouri.  Buford  succeeded  to  the  honors 
of  a  historic  post.  Fort  Union,  long  since  disestablished.  Old  Fort  L-nion  was 
built  by  the  American  Fur  Company  in  1830,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Missouri, 
about  2  3j^  miles  (more  by  water)  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone.  It  was 
stockaded  with  hewn  timber  about  16  feet  high,  occupied  probably  250  feet 
square,  and  was  furnished  with  two  bastions.  This  fort  was  for  many  ye.ir -  '"\ 
charge  of  Mr.  Alexander  Culbertson,  who  also  exercised  supervision  over  i  orts 
I'ierre  and  Benion. 

Captain  Clark's  party,  of  the  present  Expedition,  first  explored  the  Yellow- 
stone, on  the  return  journey,  in  1806,  when  Captain  Lewis  and  his  men  were 
over  on  Maria's  river.  The  honor  of  discovering  the  (some)  sources  of  the 
Yellowstone  belongs,  I  think,  to  Private  John  Colter,  of  the  Lewis  a.id  Clark 
l)arty.     See  his  route  of  1807,  as  traced  on  Clark's  map. 

The  next  step  of  the  Expedition  will  take  the  party  beyond  104°  \V.  long.,  and 
so  from  North  Dakota  into  Montana. 

**  Private  Joseph  Fields — apparently  the  first  white  man  who  ever  ascended 
the  Yellowstone.     (Qu.:     Where  was  De  La  Yerendrj-e,  about  1744?) 

*•  Oak-tan-pas-er-ha  of  Lewis'  map,  1806,  later  and  better  named  Fields'  creek 
by  Clark  ;  still  later  and  much  worse,  Charbonneau's  creek,  I  know  not  by  what 
authority.     The  bluffs  which  Fields  discovered  are  now  called  Forsythe'^  luittes. 


|: 


THE   EXPEDITION   ENTERS   MONTANA. 


285 


: 


with  297  yards  of  water ;  the  deepest  part  of  the  channel  is 
twelve  feet ;  but  the  river  is  now  falling,  and  seems  to  be 
nearly  at  its  summer  height. 

April  27th.     We   left    the    mouth    of    the    Yellowstone. 
From   the  point   of  junction  a  wood   occupies   the   space 
between  the  two  rivers,  which   at  the  distance  of  a  mile 
come  within  250  yards  of  each  other.     There  a  beautiful 
low  plain  commences,  widening  as  the  rivers  recede,  and 
extends  along  each  of  them  for  several  miles,  rising  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  Missouri  into  a  plain  twelve  feet  higher 
than  itself.     The  low  plain  is  a  few  inches  above  high  water 
mark,  and  where  it  joins  the  higher  plain  there  is  a  channel 
of  60  or  70  yards  in  width,  through  which  a  part  of  the  Mis- 
ouri,  when  at  its  greatest  height,  passes  into  the  Yellowstone. 
At  2y2  miles  above  the  junction,  and  between  the  high  and 
low  plain,  is  a  small  lake,"  200  yards  wide,  extending  for  a  mile 
parallel  with  the  Missouri  along  the  edge  of  the  upper  plain. 
At  the  lower  extremity  of  this  lake,  about  400  yards  from 
the  Missouri,  and  twice  that  distance  from  the  Yellowstone, 
is  a  situation  highly  eligible   for  a  trading  establishment! 
This  is  in  the  high  plain  which  extends  back  three  miles  in 
width,  and  seven  or  eight  miles  in  length,  along  the  Yellow- 
stone, where  it  is  bordered  by  an  extensive  body  of  wood- 
land, and  {p.  1^8)  along  the  Missouri  with  less  breadth,  till 
three  miles  above  it  is  circumscribed  by  the  hills  within  a 
space  four  yards  in  width.     A  sufficient  quantity  of  lime- 
stone  for  building  may  easily  be  procured  near  the  junction 
of  the  rivers;    it  does  not   lie  in    regular  strata,  but  is   in 
large  irregular  masses,  of  a  light  color,  and  apparently  of  an 
excellent  quality.     Game  is  very  abundant,  and  as  yet  quite 
gentle ;  above  all,  its  elevation  recommends  it  as  preferable 
to  the  land  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers,  which  their  vari- 
able channels  may  render  very  insecure. 

^"  Charted  on  some  maps  as  Elk  lake,  in  connection  with  a  certain  Dog  creek. 
The  confluence  the  two  mighty  rivers  has  altered  much  in  detail  since  1S04— ver- 
ifying the  insecurity  of  the  lowland  at  the  point  of  meeting,  which  the  practiced 
eye  of  the  Expedition  noticed. 


I    ( 


^! 


286 


THE   SITE   OF  OLD  FORT  UNION. 


I      ;'.  ■ 


The  N.W.  wind  rose  so  high  at  eleven  o'clock  that  we 
were  obliged  to  stop  till  about  four  in  the  afternoon,  when 
we  proceeded  till  dusk.  On  the  south  a  beautiful  plain 
separates  the  two  rivers,  till  at  about  six  miles  there  is  a 
timbered  piece  of  low  ground,  and  a  little  above  it  are  bluffs, 
where  the  country  rises  gradually  from  the  river;  the  situ- 
ations on  the  north  are  more  high  and  open.  We  camped 
on  that  side,*'  the  wind,  the  iand  which  it  raised,  and  the 
rapidity  of  the  current  having  prevented  our  advancing  more 
than  eight  miles ;  during  the  latter  part  of  the  day  the 
river  becomes  wider  and  crowded  with  sand-bars.  Although 
the  game  is  in  such  plenty,  we  kill  only  what  is  necessary 
for  our  subsistence.  For  several  days  past  we  have  seen  great 
numbers  of  buffalo  lying  dead  along  the  shore,  some  of  them 
partly  devoured  by  the  wolves ;  they  have  either  sunk 
through  the  ice  during  the  winter,  or  been  drowned  in 
attempting  to  cross,  or  else,  after  crossing  to  some  high 
bluff,  found  themselves  too  much  exhausted  either  to  ascend 
or  swim  back  again,  cind  perished  for  want  of  food  ;  in  this 
situation  we  found  several  small  parties  of  them.  There  are 
geese  in  abundance,  and  more  bald  eagles  than  we  have 
hitherto  observed ;  the  nest  of  these  last  being  always 
accompanied  by  those  of  two  or  three  magpies,  which  are 
their  inseparable  attendants. 

"  Site  of  old  Fort  Union,  nearly  if  not  exactly  on  the  line  between  North 
Dakota  and  Montana  ;  if  in  the  latter  territory,  in  Dawson  Co.  Lewis  D  64 
gives  elaborate  courses  and  distances  for  Apr.  27th,  from  which  the  exact  spot 
might  be  determined. 


-•.■u,.!!  II  p  Kfci^'^i  r*-^- 


m 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

THE   MISSOURI  FROM  THE  YELLOWSTONE  TO  THE   MUSSEL- 
SHELL. 

Mineral  appearances— Formidable  bears— Death  and  description  of  a  grizjly- Martha's  river- 
Abundance  of  elk— Curiosity  of  the  antelope- Advance  of  vegetation— Beaver  as  fo.id— 
Indian  rites— Porcupine  river— Two-thousand-mile  creek— Much  game— Large  Indian 
lodges— Geese  of  several  species— Wolves  of  different  species— Measurements  of  the 
largest  bear  killed— Little  Dry  and  l!ig  Dry  creeks— Little  Dry  river— Bald  eagles- 
Milk  river  reached— Fresh  Indian  sign— Big  Dry  river— Anxiety  to  sight  the  Rocky 
mountains— Indian  dog  in  camp— The  men  suffer  from  boils— Minerals,  pines,  and  cedars— 
A  bear-hunt— Ferocity  and  tenacity  of  life  of  the  grizzlj — Pine  creek— Gibson's  creek  — 
Another  bear-hunt— Narrow  escape  of  one  of  the  boats— Cougar  wounded— Rattlesnake 
creek— Rattlesnakes— Indian  camp— Alarm  of  fire— Cordelling  up  river— Heavy  fog— 
Blowing-fly  creek— The  Musselshell  river  reached— Description  of  this  river  and  sur- 
rounding country— Sacajawca's  river,  a  branch  of  the  Musselshell— A  spring  of  pure 
water— Bend  of  the  Missouri  to  receive  the  Musselshell— The  Expedition  passes  Windy 
island  and  Grouse  creek,  and  camps  some  miles  above  the  Musselshell. 

^UNDAY,  April  28th,  1805.  The  day  was  clear  and 
*^  pleasant ;  the  wind  having  shifted  to  the  southeast  we 
could  employ  our  sails,  and  went  24  miles  to  a  low  ground 
on  the  north,  opposite  the  steep  bluffs.  The  country  on  both 
sides  is  much  broken,  the  hills  approaching  nearer  to  the 
river  and  forming  bluffs,  some  of  a  white  and  others  of  a 
red  color,  exhibiting  the  usual  appearances  of  minerals,  and 
some  bunt  hills,  though  without  any  pumice-stone;  the 
salts  are  i.i  greater  quantities  than  usual,  and  the  banks  and 
sand-bars  are  covered  with  a  white  incrustation  like  frost. 
The  low  grounds  are  level,  fertile,  and  partially  timbered, 
but  are  not  so  wide  as  for  a  few  days  past.  The  woods 
are  now  green,  but  the  plains  and  meadows  seem  to  have 
Ic^s  verdure  than  those  below.  The  only  streams  which 
we  met  to-day  are  two  small  runs  on  the  north,'  and  one  on 
the  south,  which  rise  in  the  neighboring  hills,  and  have  very 

'  The  second  and  lari^cr  of  these,  ten  or  twelve  miles  by  laml  from  Fort 
Iiuford,  is  now  called  Little  Muddy  river  ;  this  is  the  stream  marked  "  Ibex  Cr." 
on  Clark's  map  of  1S14  ;  at  its  mouth  is  town  of  Hilva,  Dawson  Co. 

»87 


i  i 


!■. 


.temta^'  .J  S 


388 


FORMIDABLE  GRIZZLY   BEARS. 


little  water.  At  the  distance  of  i8  miles  the  Missouri  makes 
a  considerable  bend  to  the  southeast.  Game  is  very  abun- 
dant— the  common,  and  the  mule  or  black-tailed  deer,  elk, 
buffalo,  antelope,  brown  bear,  beaver,  and  geese.  The 
beaver  have  committed  great  devastation  among  the  trees, 
one  of  which,  nearly  three  feet  in  diameter,  had  been  gnawed 
through  by  them. 

(/.  200)  April  2C)th.  We  proceeded  early,  with  a  moder- 
ate wind.  Captain  Lewis,  who  was  on  shore  with  one  hunter, 
met  about  eight  o'clock  two  white  bears.'  Of  the  strength 
and  ferocity  of  this  animal  the  Indians  had  given  us  dreadful 
accounts.  They  never  attack  him  but  in  parties  of  six  or 
eight  persons,  and  even  then  are  often  defeated  with  a  loss 
of  one  or  more  of  their  party.  Having  no  weapons  but 
bows  and  arrows,  and  the  bad  guns  with  which  the  traders 
supply  them,  they  are  obliged  to  approach  very  near  to  the 
bear ;  as  no  wound  except  through  the  head  or  heart  is 
mortal,  they  frequently  fall  a  sacrifice  if  they  miss  their  aim. 
He  rather  attacks  than  avoids  a  man,  and  such  is  the  terror 
which  he  has  inspired,  that  the  Indians  who  go  in  quest  of 
him  paint  themselves  and  perform  all  the  superstitious  rites 
customary  when  they  make  war  on  a  neighboring  nation. 
Hitherto  those  bears  we  had  seen  did  not  appear  desirous  of 
encountering  us ;  but  although  to  a  skillful  rifleman  the 
danger  is  very  much  diminished,  yet  the  white  bear  is  still  a 
terrible  animal.  On  approaching  these  two,  both  Captain 
Lewis  and  the  hunter  fired,  and  each  wounded  a  bear.  One 
of  them  made  his  escape  ;  the  other  turned  upon  Captain 


*  Lewis  and  Clark  will  have  it  that  these  bears  are  "  white  " — and  the  count- 
less repetitions  in  the  books,  of  adventures  with  these  ferocious  beasts,  insist  on 
this  color — much  as  if  they  were  speaking  of  the  polar  bear  { Thalassarctos 
maritimus).  But  by  "  white  "  we  must  understand  merely  some  light  color 
(in  comparison  with  the  common  black  bear), translating  an  Indian  name.  Thus 
Gass,  invariably  matter-of-fact,  remarks  :  "  The  natives  call  them  white,  but 
they  are  more  of  a  brown-gray;''  and  Lewis  D  66  itself  says  here,  "  two  brown 
or  white  bears. "  The  species  is  of  course  the  grizzly,  Ursus  horribilis,  new 
to  science  in  1S05,  first  described  sufficiently  in  these  codices,  and  not  techni- 
cally named  till  1815  (Ord,  Guthrie's  Geogr.,  2d  Am.  ed.,  II.,  pp.  291,  299). 


^:^ 


MISS   MARTHA 


"S  RIVER. 


289 


Lewis  and  pursued  him  70  or  80  yards,  but  being  badly 
wounded  the  bear  could  not  run  so  fast  as  to  prevent  him 
from  reloading  his  piece,  which  he  again  aimed  at  him,  and 
a  third  shot  from  the  hunter  brought  him  to  the  ground. 
He  was  a  male,  not  quite  full  grown,  and  weighed  about  300 
pounds.  The  legs  are  somewhat  longer  than  those  of  the 
black  bear,  and  the  talons  and  tusks  much  larger  and  longer. 
The  testicles  are  also  placed  much  further  forward  and 
suspended  in  separate  pouches  from  two  to  four  inches 
asunder,  while  those  of  the  black  bear  are  situated  back 
between  the  thighs  and  in  a  single  pouch  like  those  of  the 
dog.  Its  color  is  a  yellowish-brown  ;  the  eyes  are  small, 
black,  and  piercing  ;  the  front  of  the  fore  legs  near  the  feet 
is  usually  black,  and  the  fur  is  finer,  Lhickcr,  and  deeper 
than  that  of  the  black  bear.  Add  to  which,  it  is  a  more 
furious  animal,  and  very  remarkable  for  the  wounds  which  it 
will  bear  without  dying. 

(/.  201)  We  are  surrounded  with  deer,  elk,  buffalo,  ante- 
lopes, and  their  companions  the  wolves,  which  have  become 
more  numerous  and  make  great  ravages  among  them.  The 
hills  are  here  much  more  rough  and  high,  and  almost  over- 
hang  the  banks  of  the  river.  There  are  greater  appearances 
of  coal  than  we  have  hitherto  seen,  the  strata  being  in 
some  places  six  feet  thick  ;  and  there  are  strata  of  burnt 
earth,  which  are  always  on  the  same  level  with  those  of  coal. 

In  the  evening,  after  coming  25  miles,  we  camped  at  the 
entrance  of  a  river  which  empties  into  a  bend  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Missouri.  This  stream,  which  we  called 
Martha's  river,'  is  about   50  yards  wide,  with  water  for  1 5 

^  "  This  stream  my  friend  Capt.  C.  named  Martiia.s  river,"  Lewis  D  6g— the 
name  first  spelled  "  Marthy."  then  the  tail  of  the  j-  erased  with  a  icnife,  and  the 
letter  turned  into  an  a,  with  a  comma  instead  of  an  apostrophe  before  the  s  ; 
then  a  line  very  heavily  overwritten  with  bold  backhand  strokes.  It  reads  "  in 
honour  of  Miss  M."— followed  by  an  initial  of  her  surname,  which  I  cannot 
tlecipher,  but  which  was  probably  F  or  T.  It  is  too  bad,  and  we  will  settle 
this  score  with  the  gallant  young  captain  when  we  come  to  Maria's  river. 
Martha's  river  is  now  known  as  the  Big  Muddy  ;  it  is  the  first  considerable 
stream  from  the  north  falling  into  the  Missouri  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow- 
stone.    It  heads  by  several  affluents  north  of  49°,  forms  its  main  stream  along 


i       I 


'1    ^    -I 


\ 
i 


i  i 


\ri 


If  I*) 


290 


THE  COUNTRY  ABOUT  BIG   MUDDY   RIVKR. 


yards;  the  banks  are  of  earth,  and  steep,  though  not  high, 
and  the  bed  is  principally  of  mud.  Captain  Clark,  who 
ascended  it  for  three  miles,  found  that  it  continued  of  the 
same  width,  with  a  gentle  current,  pursuing  its  course  about 
N.  30"  \V.  through  an  extensive,  fertile,  and  beautiful  valley, 
but  without  a  single  tree.  The  water  is  clear,  and  has  a 
brownish  yellow  tint ;  at  this  place  the  highlands  [i'.£^.,  Stone 
Point  and  Hole-in-the-\Vall],  which  yesterday  and  to-day 
had  approached  so  near  the  river,  became  lower,  and,  reced- 
ing from  the  water,  left  a  valley  seven  or  eight  miles  wide. 

April  lotli.  The  wind  was  high  from  the  north  during 
last  evening,  and  continued  so  this  morning.  We  however 
proceeded,  and  found  the  river  more  winding  than  usual, 
with  a  number  of  sand-islands  and  bars,  on  one  of  which  last 
we  camped,  at  the  distance  of  24  miles.*  The  low  grounds 
are  fertile  and  extensive,  but  with  very  little  timber,  and 
that  Cottonwood,  very  bad  of  its  kind  ;  being  too  small  for 
planks,  broken  and  dead  at  the  top,  and  unsound  in  the 
center  of  the  trunk.  We  passed  some  ancient  lodges 
of  driftwood,  which  do  not  appear  to  have  been  lately 
inhabited. 

The  game  continues  abundant.  We  killed  the  largest 
male  elk  we  have  yet  seen  ;  on  placing  it  in  its  natural  erect 
position,  we  found  that  it  measured  5  feet  3  inches  from 

the  Wood  or  ^Voody  mountains  about  that  parallel  of  latitude,  runs  S.E.  and 
then  S.  into  the  Missouri,  30  miles  by  land  above  Fort  Buford.  The  course  is 
approximately  parallel  with  that  of  Porcupine  (Poplar)  river,  beyond.  As  to 
the  valley  mentioned  at  the  end  of  the  above  paragraph,  it  may  be  observed  that 
the  2,000-foot  contour-line  recedes  a  good  deal  up  Martha's  river.  This  leaves 
the  country  flat.  On  reaching  this  river  in  the  summer  of  1874,  we  found  it 
unfordable  for  our  wagon-train,  and  had  to  wait  two  days  to  build  a  bridge. 
The  officers  of  the  military  escort,  having  nothing  else  to  do,  instituted  the 
national  game,  which  was  kept  up  without  intermission  day  and  night,  by  suc- 
cessive relays  of  players  ;  whence  the  spot  became  known  as  Poker  Flats.  The  E. 
boundary  of  Fort  Peck  Indian  Res.  meanders  Muddy  river  ;  Blair  is  at  its  mouth, 
*  Thus  a  little  past  a  place  on  the  north  side  called  Frenchman's  Point,  about 
20  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Muddy  or  Martha's  river.  Here  the  bluffs 
come  close  to  the  Missouri,  and  the  trail  from  Fort  Buford  skirts  the  north  I'.ink 
of  the  river.  Camp  is  at  town  of  Brockton.  Hence  to  the  next  river — Poplar 
or  Porcupine — is  only  some  twelve  miles  by  land,  though  many  more  by  water. 


H. 


CURIOSITY   OF  THE  ANTELOPE. 


291 


the  point  of  the  hoof  to  the  top  (/.  202)  of  the  shoulder. 
The  antelopes  are  yet  lean,  and  the  females  are  with 
young.  This  fleet  and  quick-sighted  animal  is  generally 
the  victim  of  its  curiosity.  When  they  first  see  the  hunters 
they  run  with  great  velocity  ;  if  he  lies  down  on  the  ground 
and  lifts  up  his  arm,  his  hat,  or  his  foot,  the  antelope  returns 
on  a  light  trot  to  look  at  the  object,  and  sometimes  goes 
and  returns  two  or  three  times,  till  it  approaches  within 
reach  of  the  rifle.  So,  too,  they  sometimes  leave  their  flock 
to  go  and  look  at  the  wolves,  wliich  crouch  down,  and,  if 
the  antelope  be  frightened  at  first,  repeat  the  same  maneu- 
ver, and  sometimes  relieve  each  other,  till  they  decoy  it 
from  the  party,  when  they  seize  it.  But  generally  the 
wolves  take  them  as  they  are  crossing  the  rivers ;  for, 
although  swift  of  foot,  they  are  not  good  swimmers. 

Wednesday,  May  1st.  The  wind  was  in  our  favor,  and  we 
were  enabled  to  use  the  sails  till  twelve  o'clock,  when  the  wind 
became  so  high  and  squally  that  we  were  forced  to  come-to 
at  the  distance  of  ten  miles,  on  the  south,  in  a  low  ground 
stocked  with  Cottonwood,  and  remain  there  during  the  day  ; 
one  of  the  canoes  being  separated  from  us,  and  not  able  to 
cross  over,  in  consequence  of  the  high  wav  1.  The  country 
around  is  more  pleasant  than  that  through  which  we  have 
passed  for  several  days,  the  hills  being  lower  and  the  low 
grounds  wider  and  better  supplied  with  timber,  which  con- 
sists principally  of  Cottonwood.  The  undergrowth  is  willow 
on  the  banks  and  sand-bars,  rose-bushes,  red-willow,  and  the 
broad-leaved  willow  in  the  low  plains  ;  while  the  high  country 
on  both  sides  is  one  extensive  plain,  without  wood,  though 
the  soil  is  a  dark,  rich,  mellow  loam.  Our  hunters  killed  a 
buffalo,  an  elk,  a  goat,  two  beaver,  and  also  a  bird  of  the 
plover  kind.' 

'  Lewis  n  72,  73,  and  Q  49-51  ;  long  descriptions.  This  "plover"  is  the 
&\'ocet,  /^trtin't rostra  americana,  which  I  found  very  common  hereabouts,  and 
in  the  Milk  river  region.  Lewis'  specimen  was  killed  by  George  Shannon,  and 
the  peculiarity  of  the  slender  retrouss^  bill  struck  him  :  "precisely  resembles 
whalebone,"  he  says. 


Hl  **tthk..-        ■■■^^^■CJ. -.>..#♦    "' 


( 


292       SAPID  BEAVER-TAILS— ASSINIBOIN   THEOLOGY. 

May  2d.  The  wind  continued  high  during  the  night; 
at  daylight  it  began  to  snow,  and  did  not  stop  till  ten 
o'clock,  when  the  ground  was  covered  an  inch  deep, 
forming  a  striking  contrast  with  the  vegetation,  which  is 
now  considerably  advanced,  some  flowers  having  put  forth, 
(/.  20j)  and  the  Cottonwood  leaves  being  as  large  as  a 
dollar.  The  wind  lulled  about  five  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, and  we  then  proceeded,"  along  wide  fertile  low 
grounds  and  high  level  plains,  and  camped  at  the  distance 
of  four  miles.  Our  game  to-day  was  deer,  elk,  and  buffalo ; 
we  also  procured  three  beaver,  which  are  quite  gentle,  as 
they  have  not  been  hunted,  though  when  the  hunters  are  in 
pursuit  they  never  leave  their  huts  during  the  day.  This 
animal  we  esteem  a  great  delicacy,  particularly  the  tail, 
which  when  boiled  resembles  in  flavor  the  fleshy  tongues 
and  sounds  of  the  codfish,  and  is  generally  so  large  as  to 
afford  a  plentiful  meal  for  two  men.  One  of  the  hunters 
[J.  Fields],  in  passing  near  an  old  Indian  camp,  found  sev- 
eral yards  of  scarlet  cloth,  suspended  on  the  bough  of  a 
tree  as  a  sacrifice  to  the  deity  by  the  Assiniboins.  The 
custom  of  making  these  offerings  is  common  among  that 
people,  as  indeed  among  all  the  Indians  on  the  Missouri.' 
The  air  was  sharp  this  evening  ;  the  water  froze  on  the  oars 
as  we  rowed,  and  in  the  morning, 

May  3</,  the  weather  became  quite  cold  ;  the  ice  was  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick  in  the  kettle,  and  the  snow  still 
continued  on  the  hills,  though  it  had  melted  from  the 
plains.  The  wind  continued  high  from  the  west,  but  not 
so  violently  as  to  prevent  our  going  on.  At  two  miles 
from  our  camp  we  passed  a  curious  collection  of  bushes, 

'"  Capt.  Clark  pursued  his  walk,  while  I  continued  with  the  party,  it  being  a 
rule  which  we  had  established,  never  to  be  absent  at  the  same  time  from  the 
party,"  Lewis  D  76. 

'  "  To  oflfer  or  sacrefice  in  this  manner  to  the  deity  watever  they  may  be  pos- 
sessed of  which  they  think  most  acceptable  to  him,  and  very  honestly  mr.king 
their  own  feelings  the  test  of  those  of  the  deity  offer  him  the  article  which  they 
most  prize  themselves,"  etc.,  Lewis  D  75,  indicating  a  species  of  theology  not 
peculiar  to  the  Assiniboins. 


rr 


•^•y^ 


PORCUPINE  OR   POPLAR  RIVER. 


293 


:  pos- 

they 
not 


about  30  feet  high  and  10  or  12  in  diameter,  tied  in  the 
form  of  a  fascine  and  standing  on  end  in  the  middle  of 
the  low  ground.  This  we  supposed  to  have  been  left  by  the 
Indians  as  a  religious  sacrifice.  At  twelve  o'clock,  the 
usual  hour,  we  halted  for  dinner.  The  low  grounds  on  the 
river  are  much  wider  than  common,  sometimes  extending 
from  five  to  nine  miles  to  the  highlands,  which  arc  much 
lower  than  heretofore,  not  being  more  than  50  or  60  feet 
above  the  lower  plain.  Through  all  this  valley,  traces  of 
the  ancient  bed  of  the  river  are  everywhere  visible,  and 
since  the  hills  have  become  lower,  the  strata  of  coal,  burnt 
earth,  and  pumice-stone  have  in  a  great  measure  ceased ; 
{p.  204)  there  being  in  fact  none  to-day.  At  the  distance 
of  14  miles  we  reached  the  moiith  of  a  river  on  the  north, 
which,  from  the  unusual  number  of  porcupines  {^Rrrthizon 
tpixanthus\  near  it,  we  called  Porcupine  river." 

This  is  a  bold  and  beautiful  stream,  112  yards  wide, 
though  the  water  is  only  40  yards  at  its  entrance.  Captain 
Clark,  who  ascended  it  several  miles  and  passed  it  above 
where  it  enters  the  highlands,  found  it  continued  nearly 
of  the  same  width  and  about  knee-deep  ;  and  as  far  as  he 
could  distinguish,  for  20  miles  from  the  hills,  its  course  was 
from  a  little  to  the  east  of  north.  There  was  much  timber 
on  the  low  grounds ;  he  found  some  limestone  also  on  the 
surface  of  the  earth  in  the  course  of  his  walk,  and  saw  a 
range  of  low  mountains  at  a  distance  to  the  west  of  north, 
whose   direction   was   northwest ;    the    adjoining   country 

•  Now  Poplar  river,  with  the  flourishing  military  post  of  same  name  at  its 
mouth  ;  Quiicing  Ash  river  of  Heap,  "  Porcupine  "  being  now  the  first  branch 
of  Milk  river,  and  forming  the  western  boundary  of  Fort  Peck  Indian  Reser- 
vation. Porcupine  river  of  L.  and  C.  is  the  second  large  stream  emptying 
into  the  Missouri  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone.  It  heads  north  of 
49°  by  several  affluents  flowing  from  the  3,000-foot  contour-line  and  upward, 
and  courses  S.E.  or  E.  of  S.,  approximately  parallel  with  Martha's  river.  The 
statements  with  which  the  next  paragraph  concludes  are  a  good  deal  out.  It 
appears  in  various  places  that  our  authors  never  realized  the  great  distance  of 
the  nearest  Saskatchewan  waters,  between  which  and  themselves  intervened  the 
whole  Milk  river  watershed,  of  whose  extent  they  were  ignorant.  Milk  river 
was  unknown  till  discovered  by  them  at  its  mouth,  May  8th. 


«      . 


m 


"^' 


A 


^% 


-M 


5  ,  t. 


' 


294 


TWO-TIIOUSAND-MILli  CKliEK. 


being  everywhere  level,  fertile,  open,  and  exceedingly 
beautiful.  The  water  of  this  river  is  transparent,  and  is  the 
only  one  that  is  so  of  all  those  that  fall  into  the  Missouri. 
Before  entering  a  large  sandbar  through  which  it  discharges 
itself,  its  low  grounds  are  formed  of  a  stiff  blue  and  black 
clay,  and  its  banks,  which  are  from  eight  to  ten  feet  high 
and  seldom  if  ever  overflowed,  are  composed  of  the  same 
materials.  From  the  quantity  of  water  which  this  river 
contains,  its  direction,  and  the  nature  of  the  country 
through  which  it  passes,  it  is  not  improbable  that  its 
sources  may  be  near  the  main  body  of  the  Saskaskawan, 
and  as  in  high  water  it  can  be  no  doubt  navigated  to  a 
considerable  distance,  it  may  be  rendered  the  means  of 
intercourse  with  the  Athabasky  country,  from  which  the 
Northwest  Company  derive  so  many  of  their  valuable  furs. 

A  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  this  river  a  creek  falls  in  on 
the  south,  to  which,  on  account  of  its  distance  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Missouri,  we  gave  the  name  of  Two-thousand- 
mile  creek."  It  is  a  bold  stream  with  a  bed  30  yards  wide. 
At  3 '4  miles  above  Porcupine  river,  we  reached  some  high 
timber  on  the  north,  and  camped  just  above  an  (/>.  20j) 
old  channel  of  the  river,  which  is  now  dry.  We  saw  vast 
quantities  of  buffalo,  elk,  deer,  principally  of  the  long- 
tailed  kind  [Cariacns  virginianus  macrurus],  antelope, 
beaver,  geese,  ducks,  brant,  and  some  swan.  The  porcu- 
pines too  are  numerous,  and  so  careless  and  clumsy  that 
we  can  approach  very  near  without  disturbing  them,  as 
they  are  feeding  on  the  young  willows.  Toward  evening 
we  also  found  for  the  first  time  the  nest  of  a  goose  among 
some  driftwood,  all  that  we  had  hitherto  seen  being  on  the 
top  of  a  broken  tree  on  the  forks,  invariably  from  15  to  20 
or  more  feet  in  height. 

May  4th.     Wc  were  detained  till  nine  o'clurk  i  !• 

'  Now  Red-water  creek,  a  considerable  stream  from  ^iven 

on   some  modern   maps  as  passinj;  into  the   Missouri  ^t   disla         iehiv 

Poplar  river.  It  drains  from  an  elevation  of  about  3,(X)o  ■  I.  betweci,  ilie  Mis- 
souri and  the  Yellowstone.     Stevens  marks  it  Little  Dry  creek .  bad'v. 


^^ 


OLD   INDIAN   HUNTING-CAMPS. 


395 


repair  the  rudder  of  one  of  the  boats,  and  when  we  set  out 
the  wind  was  ahead ;  at  6^4  '"  miles  we  passed  a  small  creclc 
in  a  deep  benil  on  the  south,  with  a  sand-island  opposite  it  ; 
then,  passing  alonj,'  an  extensive  plain,  which  gradually  rises 
from  the  north  side  of  the  river,  we  camped  at  the  distance 
of  iS  miles,"  in  a  point  of  woodland  on  the  north.  The  river 
is  this  day  wider  than  usual  and  crowded  with  sand-bars  on 
all  sides;  the  country  is  level,  fertile,  and  beautiful ;  the  low 
grounds  are  extensive,  and  contain  a  much  greater  portion  of 
timber  than  is  common.  Indeed,  all  the  forepart  of  the  day 
the  river  was  bordered  with  timber  on  both  sides,  a  circum- 
stance very  rare  on  the  Missouri,  and  the  first  that  has 
occurred  since  we  left  the  Mandans.  There  are,  as  usual, 
vast  quantities  of  game,  extremely  gentle;  the  male  buf- 
falo particularly  will  scarcely  give  way  to  us,  and  as  we 
approach  will  merely  look  at  us  for  a  moment,  as  some- 
thing  new,  and  then  quietly  resume  their  feeding. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  we  passed  some  old  Indian 
hunting-camps,  one  of  which  consisted  of  two  large  lodges, 
fortified  with  a  circular  fence  20  or  30  feet  in  diameter,  made 
of  timber  laid  horizontally,  the  beams  overlying  each  other 
to  the  height  of  five  feet,  and  covered  with  the  trunks  and 
limbs  of  trees  that  have  drifted  down  the  river.  The  lodges 
themselves  are  formed  by  three  or  more  strong  sticks  about 
the  size  of  a  man's  leg  or  arm  and  twelve  feet  long,  (/.  206  ) 
which  are  attached  at  the  top  by  a  whith  [withe]  of  small 
willows,  and  spread  out  so  as  to  form  at  the  base  a  circle  of 
10  to  14  feet  in  diameter.  Against  these  are  placed  pieces 
of  driftwood  and  fallen  timber,  usually  in  three  ranges,  one 
on  the  other ;  the  interstices  are  covered  with  leaves,  bark, 

'"  .y/c— but  q}2  '>>•  the  codex  ;  three  eourses  to  this  creek,  of  3,  5,  and  I'.i  miles, 
respectively,  Lewis  I)  Si.  This  is  the  creek  charted  on  Clark's  maj),  next  above 
his  2,000-niile  creek,  with  the  Indian  Fort  marked  at  its  mouth.  Such  a  stream 
also  appears  on  Twining's  map,  with  a  large  island  at  its  niouth. 

"  This  Lakes  the  party  past  Tooly,  Tooley,  Tule,  or  Tulle,  also  Frog,  creek, 
on  the  north,  only  ten  miles  by  the  Huford  trail  from  the  Poplar  river  ;  but  noth- 
ing appears  in  text  or  code::  about  it.     Present  site  of  Chelsea,  on  G.  N.  Ry, 
also  passed. 


M 


(II I 


hi 


f     i  1 


I       i       h 


296 


SEVERAL  SPECIES  OF  GEESE  DESCRIBED. 


and  straw,  so  as  to  form  a  conical  figure  about  ten  feet  high, 
with  a  small  aperture  in  one  side  for  the  door.  It  is,  how- 
ever, at  best  a  very  imperfect  shelter  afi^ainst  the  inclemencies 
of  the  seasons. 

Aid}/  $(/i.  We  had  a  fine  morning,  and  the  wind  being 
from  the  east  we  used  our  sails.  At  the  distance  of  five  miles 
we  came  to  a  small  island,  and  twelve  miles  further  camped 
on  the  north,  at  the  distance  of  17  miles."  The  country, 
like  that  of  yesterday,  is  beautiful  in  the  extreme. 

Among  the  vast  quantities  of  game  around  us,  we  distin- 
guish a  small  species  of  goose  [Bernic/a  /lutc/iinsi]  differing 
considerably  from  the  common  Canadian  goose  [B.  cana- 
densts\ ;  its  neck,  head,  and  beak  being  much  thicker,  larger, 
and  shorter  in  proportion  to  its  size,  which  is  nearly  a  third 
smaller  ;  the  noise  too  resembling  more  that  of  the  brant  or 
of  a  young  goose  that  has  not  yet  fully  acquired  its  note  ;  in 
other  respects — in  color,  habits,  and  the  number  of  feathers 
in  the  tail— the  two  species  correspond  ;  this  species  also  asso- 
ciates in  flocks  with  the  large  geese,  but  we  have  not  seen  it 
pair  with  th(  in.  The  white  brant  [^Chen  hyperboreiis\  is  about 
the  size  of  the  common  brown  brant  \^Bernicla  brentaX  or 
two-thirds  of  the  common  goose,  than  which  it  is  also  six 
inches  shorter  from  the  extremity  of  the  wings,  though  the 
beak,  head,  and  neck  are  larger  and  stronger ;  the  body  and 
wings  are  of  a  beautiful  pure  white,  except  the  black  feathers 
of  the  first  joint  of  the  wings ;  the  beak  and  legs  are  of  a 
reddish  or  flesh-colored  white ;  the  eye  is  of  moderate  size ; 
the  pupil  is  of  a  deep  sea-green,  encircled  with  a  ring  of 
yellowish-brown  ;  the  tail  consists  of  16  feathers  equally  long ; 
the  flesh  is  dark  ;  and  [in  this  respect],  as  well  as  in  its  note, 
[this  brant]  differs  but  little  from  the  common  brant,  which 
in  form  and  habits  it  resembles,  and  vvi':h  which  it  (/.  20"]) 
sometimes  unites  in  a  common  flock.     The  white  brants  also 

"  "Soon  after  seting  out  the  rudder  irons  of  the  \s'  ''"  ••.lOgue  were  broken 
by  her  runing  fowl  on  a.  sawyer,  s'i>e  was  however  retitt  d  in  a  few  minutes  with 
some  tugs  of  raw  hide  and  nales,"  Lewis  I)  82.  Several  small  streams  or  runs 
are  passed  unnoticed  since  Tooley,  or  Frog  creek  ;  site  of  Macon  also  passed. 


■>-.« 


SMALL   AND   LARGE   WOLVES   DESCRIBED.  297 

associate  by  themselves  in  large  flocks;  but  as  they  do  not 
seem  to  be  mated  or  paired  off,  it  is  doubtful  whether  they 
reside  here  during  the  summer  for  the  purpose  of  rearing 
their  young.     [They  go  much  further  north  to  breed.] 

The  uolves  are  also  very  abundant,  and-are  of  two  spe- 
cies.    First,  the  small  wolf  or  burrowing-dog  of  the  nrai- 
nes  Lcoyote,  Cams  latrans],wh\ch  is  found  in  almost  alf  the 
open  plains.     It  is  of   an  intermediate  size  between  the 
iox  and  dog,  very  delicately  formed,  fleet  and  active.     The 
ears  are  large  erect,  and  pointed;  the  head  is  long  and 
pomted,  like  that  of  the  fox;  the  tail  long  and  bushy;  the 
Ua.r   and    fur  are  of  a  pale    reddish-brown  color,  though 
much  coarser  than  that  of  the  fox ;  the  eye  is  of  a  deep  sea- 
^een  color,  small  and  piercing  ;  the  talons  are  rather  longer 
t^ian  those  of  the  wolf  of  the  Atlantic  States,  which  ani- 
mal, as   far  as   we    can    perceive,    is  not  to  be    found  on 
this  side  of  the  Platte.''     These  wolves  usually  associate  in 
bands  of  ten  or  twelve,  and  are  rarely  if  ever  seen  alone, 
not  being  able  singly  to  attack  a  deer  or  antelope.     They 
live  and  rear  their  young  in  burrows,  which  they  fix  near 
some  pass  or  spot  much   frequented  by  game,  and  sally 
out  in  a  body  against  any  animal  which  they  think  they 
can  overpo^ver;  but  on  the  slightest  alarm  retreat  to  their 
burrows,  making  a  noise  exactly  like  that  of  a  small  dog 

Tlie  second  species  [Canis  lupus  occidentalisA  is  lower 
shorter  in  the  legs,  and  thicker  than  the  Atlantic  wolf-  the 
color,  which  is  not  affected  by  the  seasons,  is  of  every 
variety  of  shade,  from  a  gray  or  blackish-brown  to  a  cream- 
colored  white.  They  do  not  burrow,  nor  do  they  bark,  but 
howl ;  they  frequent  the  woods  and  plains,  and  skulk  along 
the  skirts  of  the  buffalo  herds,  in  order  to  attack  the  weary 
or  wounded.  ^ 

Captain  Clark  and  one  of  the  hunters  [Drcwyerl  met  this 
eveningthe  largest  brown  bear  [grizzly  bear,  Ursus  horribilis^, 

JK  mistake  The  common  wolf,  in  some  of  its  varieties,  was  found  in 
nv  ;  parts  of  North  America,  though  it  is  now  exterminated  from  set  1  S 
regions.     It  :.  this  wolf  which  is  described  in  the  next  paragraph 


■•H*^ 


-ijplBiJIKass 


i 

r 

T 

'•                 1 

1' 

VI 

1 

' 

1 

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\\>.     ( 


398 


URSUS   HORRIBILIS   CHARACTERIZED. 


we  have  seen.  As  they  fired  he  did  not  attempt  to  attack, 
but  fled  with  a  most  trenien-  {p.  208)  dous  roar  ;  and  such 
was  his  extraordinary  tenacity  of  life  that,  although  five 
balls  passed  through  his  lungs  and  he  had  five  other  wounds, 
he  swam  more  than  half  across  the  river  to  a  sand-bar,  and 
survived  20  minutes.  He  weighed  between  500  and  600 
pounds  at  least,  and  measured  8  feet  jyd  inches  from  the 
ncse  to  the  extremity  of  the  hind  feet,  5  feet  10^  inches 
round  the  breast,  3  feet  li  inches  round  the  neck,  I  foot 
II  inches  round  the  middle  of  the  foreleg,  and  his  talons, 
five  on  each  foot,  were  4^  inches  in  length.  This  differs 
from  the  common  black  bear  [^Ursus  amcricanus'\  in  having 
its  talons  much  longer  and  more  blunt ;  its  tail  shorter ; 
its  hair  of  a  reddish  or  bay  brown,  longer,  finer,  and  more 
abundant ;  his  liver,  lungs,  and  heart  much  larger,  even  in 
proportion  to  his  size,  the  heart  being  equal  to  that  of  a 
large  ox  ;  his  maw  ten  times  larger  ;  his  testicles  pendant 
from  the  belly  and  in  separate  pouches  four  inches  apart. 
Besides  fish  and  flesh,  he  feeds  on  roots  and  every  kind  of 
wild  fruit. 

The  antelope  are  now  lean  and  with  young,  so  that  they 
may  readily  be  caught  at  this  season,  as  they  cross  the 
river  from  S.W.  to  N.E. 

May  6th.  The  morning  being  fair  and  the  wind  favora- 
ble, we  set  sail  and  proceeded  on  very  well  the  greater  part 
of  the  day.  The  country  continues  level,  rich,  and  beauti- 
ful ;  the  low  grounds  are  wide  and,  comparatively  with 
the  other  parts  of  the  Missouri,  well  supplied  with  wood. 
The  appearances  of  coal,  pumice-stone,  and  burnt  earth 
have  ceased,  though  tlie  salts  of  tartar  or  vegetable  salts 
continue  on  the  banks  and  sand-bars,  and  sometimes  in  the 
little  ravines  at  the  base  of  the  low  hills.  We  passed  three 
streams  on  the  south  ;  the  first,  at  the  distance  of  1),^  miles 
from  our  camp,  was  about  25  yards  wide  ;  but  although  it 
contained  some  water  in  standing  pools,  it  discharged  none  ; 
this  we  called  Littledry  creek,  about  eis^lit  miles  beyond 
which  is  Bigdry  creek,  50  yards  wide,  without  any  water; 


I 


1 


LITTLE  AND   BIG  DRY   CREEKS   AND   RIVERS.         299 

the  (/.  2og)  third  is  six  miles  further,  and  has  the  bed  of  a 
large   river  2CX)  yards  wide,  yet  without  a  drop  of  water. 
Like  the  other  two,  this  stream,  which  we  called  Bigdry" 
river,  continues  its  width  undiminished  as  far  as  we  can  dis- 
cern.    The  banks  are  low ;  the  channel  is  formed  of  fine 
brown  sand,  intermixed  with  a  small  proportion  of  little 
pebbles  of  various  colors ;  the  country  around  is  fiat  and 
without  trees.     These  rivers  had  recently  discharged  their 
waters;    from    their    appearance    and    the    nature    of   the 
country  through  which  they  pass,  we  concluded  that  they 
rise   in   the  Black   mountains,  or  in  the  level  low  plains 
which  are  probably  between  this  place  and  the  mountains  ; 
that  the  country  being  nearly  of  the  same  kind  and  of  the 
same  latitude,  the  rains  of  spring,  melting  the  snows  about 
the  same  time,  conspire  to  throw  at  once  vast  quantities  of 
water  down  these  channels,  which  are  then  left  dry  during 
the  summer,  autumn,  and  winter,  when  there  is  very  little 
rain.    We  had  to-day  a  slight  sprinkling,  but  it  lasted  a  very 
short  time.     The  game  is  in  such  plenty  that  it  has  become 
a  mere  amusement  to  supply  the  party  with  provisions. 
"  "  Big  Dry  river  "  (printed  "  Bigdry  "  river)  is  a  mistake  for  Z,W,  Dry  river 
as  appears  from  orig.  ed.  p.  212,  from  the  Summary  Statement  at  the  end  of  the 
book,  and  from  the  codex  :  "  The  first  of  these  we  call   little  dry  creek 
the  2d.  50  yards  wide  .  .  .  we  called  it  Big  dry  Creek,  the  3d.  .  .  .  which  we 
called  litt'e  dry  river."  Lewis   D   87.     The  real   Big  Dry  river  is  beyond  the 
mouth  of  Milk  river.      The  sequence  of    these  "dry"   creeks  and   rivers    or 
coulees  IS  :   i,  Little  Dry  creek;  2.   Big  Dry  creek  ;  3,   Little  Dry  river;  and 
4  (beyond    Milk    river),  Big  Dry  river.     All  four  of  these  coulees  make  into 
the  Missouri  from  the  south.     The  statement  that  the  three  former  of  these 
"rise  m  the  Black  mountains,"  etc.,  is  very  far  out.     The  authors  seem  to 
have  been  misled  by  the  diameters   of  these  coulees,  and  to  have  forgotten 
for  the  moment  that  they  had  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone,  the  whole 
watershed  of  which  great  river  necessarily  lay  between  these  couUts  and  any 
part  of  the  Bl.ick  hills-or  else,  and  more  likely,  they  mean  by  "  Black  moun- 
tauis  "  anything  mountainous  east  of  the  Rockies.     Clark  charts  all  four  of  these 
coulees  :  No.  l,  nameless  (elsewhere  Lackwater  creek);  Xos.  2,  3,  4   by  names 
as  in  this  note.     Old  Fort  Charles  was  near  one  of  them,  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  Missouri.      Nn.  2  is  now  Elk  Prairie  creek.     Clark  also  charts,  from  the 
>wr//,,  a  stream  he  ells  "  .ArK'alia  "-a  name  not  in  Lewis  D,  nor  in  the  Sum- 
mary Statement.     This  is  Wolf  creek  of  Twining's  and   other  maps  ;    Wolf 
Point  (town)  here  now. 


I    1 


i 


300 


THE  GULF  IN   THE   ISLAND   BEND. 


We  made  25  miles  to  a  clump  of  trees  on  the  north,  where 
we  passed  the  iiiglit. 

May  jth.  The  morning  was  pleasant,  and  we  proceeded 
at  an  early  hour.  There  is  much  driftwood  floating  ;  and, 
what  is  contrary  to  our  expectation,  although  the  river  is 
rising  the  water  is  somewhat  clearer  than  usual.  At  eleven 
o'clock  the  wind  became  so  high  that  one  of  the  boats  was 
nearly  sunk,  and  we  were  obliged  to  stop  till  one  o'clock, 
when  we  proceeded,  and  camped  on  the  south,  above  a 
large  sand-bar  projecting  from  the  north,  having  made  15 
miles."  On  the  north  side  of  the  river  are  the  most  beauti- 
ful plains  we  have  yet  seen  ;  they  rise  gradually  from  the 
low  grounds  on  the  water  to  the  height  of  50  or  60  feet, 
and  then  extend  in  an  unbroken  level  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach.  The  hills  on  the  south  are  more  broken  and 
higher,  though  at  some  distance  back  the  country  becomes 
level  and  fertile,  {p.  210)  There  are  no  more  appearances 
of  burnt  earth,  coal,  or  pumice-stone,  though  that  of  salt 
still  continues,  and  the  vegetation  seems  to  have  advanced 
but  little  since  the  28th  of  last  month.  Game  is  as  abun- 
dant as  usual.  The  bald  eagles,  of  which  we  see  great 
numbers,  probably  feed  on  the  carcasses  of  dead  animals  ; 
for  on  the  whole  Missouri  we  have  seen  neither  the  blue- 
crested  fisher  [kinfjfisher,  Ccryle  alcyoti],  nor  the  fishing- 
hawk  [Patidion  Caroline  us  is],  to  suppl  ;•  them  with  their  fav- 
orite food;  and  the  water  of  the  river  is  so  turbid  that  no  bird 
which  feeds  exclusively  on  fish  can  procure  a  subsistence. 

May  Sf/e.  A  light  breeze  from  the  east  carried  us  16 
miles,  till  we  halted  for  dinner  at  the  entrance  of  a  river  on 
the  north.  Captain  Clark,  who  had  walked  on  the  south, 
on  ascending  a  high  point  opposite  its  entrance  discovered 


"  A  place  is  named  in  the  Summary  Statement,  "Gulf  in  the  Island  Bend," 
and  located  13  miles  below  Milk  river.  But  no  such  name  appears  in  the  text 
here  or  in  Lewis  D  of  this  •  ie.  This  is  between  Bark  creek  (south,  Indian 
fight  there,  1876)  and  a  certain  stream  or  coulee  from  the  north,  now  called 
Little  Porcupine  creek,  whose  mouth  our  survey  made  15  miles  below  Milk 
river  ;  town  of  Lenox  there  now. 


•s<      .. 


"  THE   RIVER  WHICH   SCOLDS  AT  ALL  OTHERS."     301 

a  level  and  beautiful  country  which  it  watered  ;  that  its 
course  for  12  or  15  miles  wasN.W.,  when  it  divided  into 
two  nearly  equal  branches,  one  pursuing  a  direction  nearly 
N.,  the  other  to  the  W.  of  N.W.     Its  width  at  the  entrance 
IS  1 50  yards  ;  on  going  three  miles  up,  Captain  Lewis  found 
It  to  be  of  the  same  breadth  and  sometimes  more ;  it  is 
deep,  gentle,  and  has  a  large  quantity  of  water ;  its  bed  is 
princ.pally  of  mud ;  the  banks  are  abrupt,  about  twelve  feet 
in  height,  and  formed  of  a  dark,  rich  loam  and  blue  clay  •  the 
low  grounds  near  it  are  wide  and  fertile,  and  possess  a  con- 
siderable proportion  of  Cottonwood  and  willow.     It  seems 
to  be  navigable  for  boats  and  canoes  ;  by  this  circumstance, 
joined  to  Its  course  and  quantity  of  water,  which  indicates 
that  It  passes  through  a  large  extent  of  country,  we  are  led 
to  presume  that  it  may  approach  the  Saskaskawan  and 
aHord  a  communication  with  that  river.     The  water  has  a 
peculiar  whiteness,  such  as  might  be  produced  by  a  table- 
spoonful  of  milk  in  a  dish  of  tea,  and   this  circumstance 
induced  us  to  call  it  Milk  river." 

"  ny  far  the  greatest  of  all  the  northern  tributaries  of  the  upper  Missouri. 
Thesurm.seof  us  approach  to  the  Saskatchewan  is  correct.     Some  southern 
sources  of  the  l.-itter  head  with  Milic  river  in  the  main  divide  of  the  Rocky 
mountains  a  httle  south  of  49',  or  the  northern  border  of  Montana.     Milk  river 
sk,rts  th.s  parallel  of  latitude,  a  little  north  of  it  for  some  distance,  crosses  the 
pan..lelabout  iio»3o'  W.  long.,   then  runs  in   Montana  approximately  east- 
ward, but  with  general  southerly  inclination,  to  the  Missouri  near  io6»  18  W 
ong.     Tn.ts  course  the  Milk  river  receives  many  tributaries,  from  both  sides' 
thus  dn-iining  the  whole  country  south  of  the  Saskatchewan  watershed.     These 
tributaries  have  mostly  a  general  north  and  south  course,  and  a  number  of  them 
cross  49     N    lat.    in  each  of  these  directions.     The  largest  flow  south  into 
M,  k  river  after  the  latter  has  entered  Montana,  as  Cottonwood,  Frenchman's, 
I.itt  e  Rocky  and  B,g  Porcupine  rivers.     The  latter  is  very  large-about  like 
roplar  and    Marthas  rivers-and  is  the  north  "  fork  ■' of   Milk  river  which 
Captain  Clark  discovered.    M  the  crossing  of  49=  was  a  station  called  Milk  River 
Post  ;  Fort  Assimboin  is  now  lower  down.     On  Frenchman's  river  is  (or  was  in 
1374.  when  I  was  there)  Fort  M.  J.  Turnay-a  very  disagreeable  place.     The 
Bears  law  mountains  and  the  Little  Rocky  mountains  separate  the  Milk  river 
watershed  from  that  of  the  Missouri.     At  the  mouth  of  .\Iiik  river  the  G  N   Rv 
leaves  the  Missouri,  along  the  north  bank  of  whicli  it  runs  up  to  here  from  the 
Muddy,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone,  and  ascends  Milk  river,  crossing 
at  Glasgow.     For  the  headline  of  this  page,  see  Lewis'  map,  1806 


ii*v 


'        -.!> 


302 


MILK   RIVER  PASSED — BIG  DRV  RIVER. 


M 


If      I 


In  the  evening  we  had  made  27  miles,  and  camped  on 
the  south  [six  miles  above  Milk  river,  Lewis  D  97].  The 
country  on  that  side  consists  in  general  of  high  bro-  (/.  2//) 
ken  hills,  with  much  gray,  black,  and  brown  granite  scat- 
tered over  the  surface  of  the  ground.  At  a  little  distance 
from  the  river  there  is  no  timber  on  either  side,  the  wood 
being  confined  to  the  margin  of  the  river;  so  that  unless 
the  contrary  is  particularly  mentioned,  it  is  always  to 
be  understood  that  the  upland  is  perfectly  naked,  and 
that  we  consider  the  low  grounds  well  timbered  if  even 
a  fifth  be  covered  with  wood.  The  wild  licorice  [G/jryr- 
rhiza  leptdota]  is  found  in  great  abundance  on  these  hills, 
as  is  also  the  white-apple  [pomme  blanche  of  the  French, 
Psoralen  csculenta].  As  usual,  we  are  surrounded  by  buffalo, 
elk,  common  and  black-tailed  deer,  beaver,  antelopes,  and 
wolves.  We  observed  a  place  where  an  Indian  had  recently 
taken  the  hair  off  an  antelope's  skin,  and  some  of  the  party 
thought  they  distinguished  imperfectly  some  smoke  and 
Indian  lodges,  up  Milk  river — marks  which  we  are  by  no 
means  desirous  of  realizing,  as  the  Indians  are  probably 
Assiniboins,  and  might  be  very  troublesome. 

May  gth.  We  again  had  a  favorable  wind,  and  sailed 
along  very  well.  Between  four  and  five  miles  we  passed  a 
large  island  in  a  deep  bend  to  the  north,  with  a  large  sand- 
bar at  the  upper  point.  At  15^^  miles  we  reached  the  bed 
of  a  most  extraordinary  [Rig  Dry]  river,  which  presents 
itself  on  the  south."  Though  as  wide  as  the  Missouri  itself, 
— that  is,  about  half  a  mile, — it  does  not  discharge  a  drop  of 
water,  and  contains  nothing  but  a  few  standing  pools.  On 
ascending  it  three  miles  we  found  an  eminence  from  which 
we  saw  the  direction  of  the  channel,  first  south  for  ten  or 

"  Had  our  travelers  been  as  familiar  with  the  Upper  Missouri  country  as  they 
were  with  the  great  river  itself,  they  would  have  thought  less  of  this  great  dry 
course.  Many  of  the  smaller  rivers  run  dry,  and  their  courses  are  often  road- 
beds for  long  distances.  This  Rig  Dry  river  retains  its  name.  (For  other  such 
coulees,  of  similar  names,  see  note  '*,  May  6th,  p.  2gg.)  It  is  in  the  bight  of  a 
small,  sharp  bend  of  the  Missouri,  on  rounding  which  the  Expedition  will  reach 
the  site  of  the  long  celebrated  Fort  Peck  Indian  Agency. 


BIG  DKV   RIVER-WI-KNKR'S  RUN  OR  CREEK.  303 

twelve  „,iles,  then  turning  to  the  E.S.E.  as  far  as  we  could 
see.  It  passes  through  a  wide  valley  without  timber  •  the 
surrounding   country  consists   of   waving  low   hiiri'nter 

abrupt    and  consist  of  a  black  or  yellow  clay,  or  of  a  rich 

e.ght  feet  above  the  bed.  they  exhibit  no  appearance  of 
bang  overflowed;  the  bed  is  entirely  composed  of  ligh 

Mivsour.  are  extremely  fine.     Like  the  dry  rivers  we  pas  ed 
before,  this  seemed  to  have  discharged  its  waters  re'enth 
bu     the  watermark  indicated  that  its  greatest  deptl    1    d 
ot  been  more  than  two  feet.     This  stream,  if  it  deserve 
the  name,  we  called  Bigdry  [Big  Dry]  river. 

About  a  mile  below  is  a  large  creek  on  the  same  side 

vh.ch  .3  also  perfectly  dry.     Mineral  salts  and  quartz  a  e  in 

^rge  quantmes  near  this  neighborhood.     Theland  of    he 

M.ssoun  from  .ts  mouth  to  this  place  has  been  mixed  w    h 

Ltalcj,  but  which  ,s  most  probably  this  quartz.     The  game  is 
now  m  great  quantities,  particularly  the  elk  and    buffalo 
vh.ch  last  ,s  so  gentle  that  the  men  are  obliged  to  drive 
t   em       ,  ,f  ,he  way  with  sticks  and  stones.     The  ravte 
of  the  beaver  are  very  apparent ;  in  one  place  the  timbe 
was  entirely  prostrated  for  a  space  of  three  acres  in  Ln 

though  the  trees  were  m  large  quantities,  and  some  of  them 
as  tue,  as  the  body  of  a  man.     At  the  distance  04 

oTsZuTi'  ''*"  K^''"^  '5K  miles,  at  the  entrance 
of  a  small  creek  m  a  bend  on  the  north,  to  which  we 
gave  the  name  of  Werner's  creek,  after  one  of  our  me,?' 

i"  text,  "  24  •■  a„,l  "  2.  ./  "me     I  ,  '  statements  of  distances 

date  Le«.s  1.)  iir  .,ve.  apa.eof  .lescription of  a  renvxrkable  "  plover," 


-..'    jsmm 


s 


Jl 


1 ' 

';§■,''( 

Iti 


1 1  "  !• 


304 


PifeCE  DE   RESISTANCE,  AU   NATUREL. 


For  several  days  past  the  river  has  been  as  wide  as  it 
generally  is  near  its  mouth  ;  but  as  it  is  much  shallower, 
crowded  with  sand-bars,  and  the  color  of  the  water  has 
become  much  clearer,  we  do  not  yet  despair  of  reaching  the 
Rock  [Rocky]  mountains,  for  which  we  are  very  anxious. 

Maj'  lot/t.  We  had  not  proceeded  more  than  4^  miles 
when  the  violence  of  the  wind  forced  us  to  halt  for  the  day, 
under  some  timber  in  a  bend  on  the  south  side.  The  wind 
continued  high,  the  clouds  thick  and  black,  and  we  had  a 

of  which  he  shot  four ;  the  same  is  in  Lewis  Q  52,  53.  This  bird  is  the  semi- 
imlmated  tattler  or  willet,  Sympkemia  semipalmala,  now  a  well-known  species. 
Also  at  this  date  Lewis  D  109  gives  an  amusing  relation,  which  I  cannot  for- 
bear to  quote,  of  Chaboneau's  cookery,  the  result  of  which  must  have  been  a 
nasty  mess,  suggesting  a  cross  between  a  sausage  and  a  suet-pudding.  Here  is 
the  recipe:  "  From  the  cow  I  killed  we  saved  the  necessary  materials  for  making 
what  our  wrighthand  cook  Charbono  calls  the  hotidin  blanc  [interlined  "  pou- 
dingue  "  by  Clark  in  red  ink]  .  .  .  About  6  feet  of  the  lower  extremity  of  the 
large  gut  of  the  Buffaloe  is  the  first  mosel  that  the  cook  makes  love  to  ;  this  he 
holds  fast  .It  one  end  with  the  right  hand,  while  with  the  forefinger  and  thumb 
f>f  the  left  he  gently  compresses  it,  and  discharges  what  he  says  is  not  good  to 
e.it,  but  of  which  in  the  squel  [sequel]  we  get  a  moderate  portion  ;  the  mustle 
lying  underneath  the  shoulder  blade  next  to  th  ;  back  and  fillets  are  next  saaght, 
these  are  needed  [kneaded]  up  very  fine  with  j.  good  portion  of  the  kidney  suit 
[suet]  ;  to  this  composition  is  then  added  a  just  proportion  of  pepper  and  salt  and 

a  small  quantity  of  flour  ;   thus  far  advanced  our  skillfull   opporater  C » 

seizes  his  recepticle  [/.  e.,  the  gut],  which  has  never  once  touched  the  water,  for 
tluit  would  intircly  distroy  the  regular  order  of  the  whole  procedure  ;  you  will  not 
forget  that  tlie  [out]  side  you  now  see  is  that  covered  with  a  good  coat  of  fat,  jiro- 
\i(led  the  anamal  be  in  good  order  ;  the  oper.itor  seizes  the  recepticle  I  s.iy,  and 
tying  it  fast  at  one  end  turns  it  inwardi  and  begins  now  with  repeated  evolutions 
of  the  hand  and  arm,  and  brisk  motions  of  the  finger  and  thumb  to  put  in  what 
he  says  is /<o;;/i>«r  Wf/w^'-i'ry  thus  by  stuffing  and  compressing  he  soon  distends 
the  recepticle  to  the  utmost  limniits  of  it's  power  of  expansion,  and  in  the  course 
of  it's  longitudinal  progress  it  drives  from  the  other  end  of  the  recepticle  a  much 

larger  portion  of  the than  w.as  previously  discharged  by  the  finger  and 

tluinib  in  a  former  part  of  the  operation  ;  thus  when  the  >idos  of  the  recepticle 
are  skilfully  exchanged  the  outer  for  the  inner  and  all  is  compleatly  filled  with 
something  good  to  eat  it  is  tyed  at  the  other  end,  but  not  any  cut  ofT,  for  that 
would  make  the  pattern  too  scant  ;  it  is  then  b.iptised  in  the  missouri  with  two 
dips  and  a  llirt,  and  bobbed  into  the  kettle  ;  from  whence,  after  it  be  well  boiled 
it  is  t.aken  and  fryed  with  bears  oil  until  it  becomes  brown,  when  it  is  ready  to  - 
esswage  the  pangs  of  a  keen  appetite  or  such  as  travelers  in  the  wilderness  are 
seldom  at  a  loss  for." 


'\^ 


^» 


CHARACTER  OF  THE   SOIL  AXD   MINERALS.  305 

slight  sprinkling  of  rain  several  times  in  the  course  of  the 
day.     Shortly  after  our  landing  a  dog  came  to  us,  and  as 
this  mduced  us  to  believe  that  we  are  near  the  hunting, 
grounds  of    the  Assiniboins,  who  are    a   vicious,   (/.  »/?) 
ill-d.sposed  people,  it  was  necessary  to  be  on   our  guard 
VVo  therefore  inspected  our  arms,  which  we  found  in  good 
order,  and  sent  several  hunters  to  scour  the  country ;  but 
they  returned  in  the  evening  having  seen  no  tents,  nor  any 
recent  tracks  of  Indians.     Boils'"  and  imposthumes  are  very 
common   among  the   party,  and   sore   eyes  continue  in  a 
greater  or  less  degree  with  all  of  us;  for  the  imposthumes 
we  use  emollient  poultices,  and  apply  to  the  eyes  a  solution 
of  two  grains  of  white  vitriol  [sulphate  of  zinc]  and  one  of 
su^ar-of-lcad,  with  one  ounce  of  water. 

Ma_y  lUh.     The  wind  blew  very  hard  in  the  night;  but 
having  abated  this  morning  we  went  on  very  well,  till  in 
the  afternoon  the  wind  arose  and  retarded  our  progress- 
the  current,  too,  was  strong,  the  river  very  crooked,  and 
he  banks,  as  us.-al,  constantly  precipitating  themselves  in 
large  masses  into  the  water.     The  highlands  are  broken 
and  approach   nearer  the  river  than  they  do  below     The 
so.  ,  however,  of  both  hills  and  low  grounds  appears  as 
fertile  as  that  further  down    the    river.     It  consists  of  a 
black-look.ng  loam  with  a  small  portion  of  sand,  which 
covers  the  hills  and  bluffs  to  the  depth  of  20  or  30  feet,  and 
when  thrown  in  the  water  dissolves  as  readily  as  loaf  sufjar 
and  effervesces  like  marie.-     There  are  also  great  appear- 
ances of  quartz  and  mineral  salts.     The  first  is  most  com- 
monly seen  in  the  faces  of  the  bluffs;  the  second  is  found 
on  the  hills  as  well  as  the  low  grounds,  and  in  the  gullies 
u'h.ch  come  down  from  the  hills;  it  lies  in  a  crust  of  two 

"  Text  ami  codex  have  "  biles."     Imposthumes  or  impostumes  are  abscesses 
here  called  by  a  name  now  obsolete.     Probably  the  matter  with  the  men "": 
-  un,  more  than  bad  boils  or  furuncles,  requiring  poultices  to  favor  suppura- 
tioii  and  discharge  of  the  core. 

"»  Old  form  of  the  M-onl  marl.     Marl  has  become  a  vague  term  ;    it  is  here 
disnitegrate  readily  m  water  or  on  exposure  to  the  air. 


3o6 


I'INKS   AM)    CKDAKS — I'.KATTON   AND    IIIK    DKAK. 


■' 


.1 


<  |i 


or  three  inches  in  depth,  and  may  be  swept  up  with  a 
feather  in  large  quantities.  There  is  no  longer  any  appear- 
ance of  coal,  burnt  earth,  or  pumice-stone. 

We  saw  and  visited  some  high  hills  on  the  north  side 
about  three  miles  from  the  river,  whose  tops  were  covered 
with  the  pitch-pine.  This  is  the  first  pine  we  have  seen  on 
the  Missouri ;  it  is  like  that  of  Virginia  [Pinus  rigida],  except 
that  the  leaves  are  somewhat  longer.  Among  this  pine  is 
also  a  dwarf  cedar,  something  between  three  or  four  feet  high, 
but  generally  spreading  itself  like  a  vine  along  the  surface 
(/.  21^)  of  the  earth,  which  it  covers  very  closely,  putting 
out  roots  from  the  under  side.  The  fruit  and  smell  resem- 
ble those  of  the  common  red  ccda.r  [Juttiperus  virginianus^, 
but  the  leaf  is  finer  and  more  delicate.  The  tops  of  the 
hills  where  these  plants  grow  have  a  soil  quite  different 
from  that  just  described ;  the  basis  of  it  is  usually  yellow 
or  white  clay,  and  the  general  appearance  light-colored, 
sandy,  and  barren,  some  scattering  tufts  of  sedge  being 
almost  its  only  herbage. 

About  five  in  the  afternoon  one  of  our  men  [Bratton], 
who  had  been  afflicted  with  boils  and  suffered  to  walk  on 
shore,  came  running  to  the  boats  with  loud  cries,  and  every 
symptom  of  terror  and  distress.  For  some  time  after  we 
had  taken  him  on  board  he  was  so  much  out  of  breath  as 
to  be  unable  to  describe  the  cause  of  his  anxiety;  but  he 
at  length  told  us  that  about  a  mile  and  a  half  below  he  had 
shot  a  brown  bear,  which  immediately  turned  and  was  in 
close  pursuit  of  him  ;  but  the  bear  being  badly  wounded 
could  not  overtake  him.  Captain  Lewis,  with  seven  men 
immediately  went  in  search  of  him;  having  found  his  track 
they  followed  him  by  the  blood  for  a  mile,  found  him  con- 
cealed in  some  thick  brushwood,  and  shot  him  with  two 
balls  through  the  skull.  Though  somewhat  smaller  than 
tliat  killed  a  few  days  ago,  he  was  a  monstrous  animal,  and 
a  most  terrible  enemy.  Our  man  had  shot  him  through 
the  center  of  the  lungs  ;  yet  he  had  pursued  him  furiously 
for  half  a  mile,  then  returned   more  than  twice  that  dis- 


THK  (iRIZZLYS  TENACITY   OF   LIFE — PINE  CREEK. 


307 


every 
er  we 

th  as 
ut  he 

had 
as  in 
ncled 

men 
track 

con- 
1  two 

than 
1,  and 
rough 
iously 
It   dis- 


tance, and  with  his  talons  prepared  himself  a  bed  in  the 
earth  two  feet  deep  and  five  feet  long  ;  he  was  perfectly  alive 
when  they  found  him,  which  was  at  least  two  hours  after  he 
had  received  the  wound.  The  wonderful  power  of  life  which 
these  animals  possess  renders  them  dreadful ;  their  very 
track  in  the  mud  or  sand,  which  we  have  sometimes  found 
1 1  inches  long  and  7^  wide,  exclusive  of  the  talons,  is  alarm- 
ing; and  we  had  rather  encounter  two  Indians  than  meet  a 
single  brown  bear.  There  is  no  chance  of  killing  them  by  a 
single  shot  unless  the  ball  goes  through  the  brain,  and  this  is 
very  difficult  (/>.  ^/j)  on  account  of  two  large  muscles  which 
cover  the  side  of  the  forehead  and  the  sharp  projection  of 
the  center  of  the  frontal  bone,  which  is  also  thick. 

Our  camp  was  on  the  south,  at  the  distance  of  16  miles 
from  that  of  last  night.  The  fleece  and  skin  of  the  bear'" 
were  a  heavy  burden  for  tvvo  men,  and  the  oil  amounted 
to  eight  gallons. 

May  \2th.  The  weather  being  clear  and  calm,  we  set  out 
early.  Within  a  mile  we  came  to  a  small  creek,"  about 
20  yards  wide,  emptying  on  the  south.  At  ii^  miles  we 
reached  a  point  of  woodland  on  the  south,  opposite  which 
is  a  creek  of  the  same  width  as  the  last,  but  with  little 
water,  which  we  called  Pine  creek."  At  i8f^  miles  we  came- 
to  on  the  south  opposite  the  lower  point  of  a  willow-island, 
situated  in  a  deep  bend  of  the  river  to  the  southeast. 
Here  we  remained  during  the  day,  the  wind  having  risen  at 
twelve  so  high  that  we  could  not  proceed  ;  it  continued  to 

"'  The  grizzly  bears  have  by  this  time  won  the  respect  of  the  party.  Cajitain 
Lewis  records  at  this  <late  a  very  prudent  and  reasonable  resolve  :  "  I  most 
generally  went  alone,  armed  with  my  rifle  and  esponloon  ;  thus  eijuiped  I  feel 
myself  more  than  a  match  for  a  brown  bear,  provided  I  get  him  in  open  woods  or 
ne.ir  the  water  ;  but  feel  myself  a  little  diffident  with  respect  to  an  attack  in  the 
open  plains.  I  have  therefore  come  to  a  resolution  to  act  on  the  defencive  only, 
should  I  meet  these  gentlemen   in  the  open  country."     (I)  121.) 

"'  Nameless  in  the  codex,  as  in  the  text  ;  charted,  unlettered,  on  Clark's  ma]), 
where  it  appears  as  the  first  creek  on  the  south  above  Hig  Dry  river.  Now 
called  Cr.ibb's,  Crab's  or  Crab  creek. 

"  So  Lewis  I)  123,  and  so  the  Summary  Statement  ;  also  charted  on  Clark's 
map  by  this  name,  on  the  north,  between  "  Warner's  Run  "  and  "  (iibson's  Cr." 


'-iaJia?-; 


I      I 


308 


VARIOUS   ri.ANTS  AND   CRKEKS. 


blow  violently  all  night,  with  occasional  sprinklings  of  rain 
from  sunset  till  midnight. 

On  both  sides  of  the  river  the  country  is  rough  and  bro- 
ken, the  low  grounds  becoming  narrower;  the  tops  of  the 
hills  on  the  north  exhibit  some  scattered  pine  and  cedar; 
on  the  south  the  pine  has  not  yet  commenced,  though  there 
is  some  ced.ir  on  the  sides  of  the  hills  and  in  the  little 
ravines.  The  choke-cherry,  the  wild  hyssop,  sage,  fleshy- 
leaved  thorn,  and  particularly  the  aromatic  herb  on  which 
the  antelope  and  hare  feed,  are  to  be  found  on  the  plains 
and  hills.  The  soil  of  the  hills  has  now  altered  its  texture 
considerably.  Their  bases,  like  that  of  the  river  plains,  is 
as  usual  a  rich,  black  loam,  while  from  the  middle  to  the 
summits  they  are  composed  of  a  light  brown  colored  earth, 
poor  and  sterile,  intermixed  with  a  coarse  white  sand. 

May  I'^th.  The  wind  was  so  high  that  we  could  not  pro- 
ceed till  about  one  o'clock,  when  we  had  to  encounter  a  cur- 
rent rather  stronger  than  usual.  In  the  course  of  ij^  miles 
wo  passed  two  small  creeks"  on  the  south,  (/>.  216)  one  of  18 
and  the  other  of  30  yards'  width,  neither  of  them  containing 
any  water,  and  camped  on  the  south  at  a  point  of  woodland, 
having  made  only  seven  miles.  The  country  is  much  the 
same  as  yesterday,  with  little  timber  in  the  low  grounds, 
and  a  small  quantity  of  pine  and  cedar  on  the  northern  hills. 
The  river,  however,  continues  to  grow  clearer,  and  this,  as 
well  as  the  increased  rapidity  [of  the  current],  induces  us  to 
hope  for  some  change  of  country.  The  game  is  as  usual 
so  abundant  that  we  can  get  without  difficulty  all  that  is 
necessary. 

May  14///.  There  was  some  fog  on  the  river  this  morn- 
ing, which  is  a  very  rare  occurrence.  At  the  distance  of 
\]'2  miles  we  reached  an  island  in  a  bend  on  the  north, 
which  continued  for  about  half  a  mile,  when  at  the  head  of 
it  a  large  creek  comes  in  on  the  north,  to  which  we  gave 

"  No  names  for  these  dr)'  runs  to  be  discovered.  One  of  them  seems  to  be 
indicated  on  Clark's  map  by  a  nameless  trace,  next  before  the  creek  there  lettered 
"Stick  lodge  Cr." 


^^r^ 


■>«.iiiii.,. 


GinSON  S,   STICK   LODGE,   AND   REAR  CREEKS. 


309 


the  name  of  Gibson's  "  creek.  At  7>^  miles  is  a  point  of 
roclvs  on  the  south,  above  a  creek  on  the  same  side,  whicli 
we  called  Sticklodge"  creek ;  five  miles  further  is  a  large 
creek"  on  the  south,  which,  like  the  two  others,  has  no  run- 
ning water;  and  at  l6>4  miles  is  a  timbered  point  on  the 
north,  where  we  camped  for  the  night.  The  country  is  like 
tiiat  of  yesterday,  except  that  the  low  grounds  are  wider; 
there  arc  also  many  high  black  bluffs  along  the  banks ;  the 
game  too  is  in  great  abundance. 

Toward  evening  the  men  in  the  hindmost  canoes  dis- 
covered a  large  brown  bear  lying  in  the  open  grounds,  about 
300  paces  from  the  river.  Six  of  them,  all  good  hunters, 
immediately  went  to  attack  him,  and  concealing  tliemselves 
by  a  small  eminence  came  unpcrceived  within  40  paces  of 
him.  Four  of  the  hunters  now  fired,  and  each  lodged  a  ball 
in  his  body,  two  of  them  directly  through  the  lungs.  The 
furious  animal  sprang  up  and  ran  open-mouthed  upon  them  ; 


IS 


I  be 
ereJ 


•'  "Gibson  had  wounded  a  very  large  brown  bear,  but  it  wtis  too  late  to  pur- 
sue  him,"  Lewis  I)  124,  May  13th,  whence  the  name  of  this  creek,  nu  (lout)t.  It 
appears  in  the  Summary  Statement  by  the  same  name,  and  is  so  charted  on 
Clark's  map. 

"  "A  creek  on  Lard,  called  Stick  Lodge  C,"  Lewis  D  128  ;  "Stick  lodge 
Cr,"  on  Clark's  map,  where,  however,  we  must  observe  that  it  is  not  brought 
into  the  Missouri  according  to  the  text,  nor  agreealjly  with  the  courses  and  dis- 
tances of  the  codex  of  May  14th,  for  its  mouth  is  charted  below  instead  of 
above  (iibsou's  creek  ;  and  another  little  creek,  nameless  on  the  map,  and  not 
noticed  in  the  text,  is  charted  in  about  the  place  assigned  to  Stick  Lodge  creek  in 
the  texl.  I  find  no  hint  in  the  codex  to  explain  the  curious  name  ;  May  14th 
is  full  of  the  bear-hunt  and  the  mishap  to  the  perogue.  But  it  refers  in  some 
way  to  the  leather  tent  or  loilge  of  the  explorers  (compare  Ilurnt  Lodge  creek 
of  M.iy  17th),  or  else  to  an  Indian  lodge  (wickiup)  of  brushwood. 

•'  This  creek  is  named  in  the  Summary  Statement  "  rJrown-bear-defeated 
creek,"  from  the  incident  about  to  be  narrated.  It  comes  in  the  Statement  between 
Gibson's  and  Hratton's  creeks,  and  n(j  Stick  Lodge  creek  is  there  given.  Lewis  1) 
I2f)  has  "  a  large  dry  creek  Lard,  the  IJrown  bear  I)efeat  " — which  is  as  duubtful 
in  statement  as  the  bear-hunt  itself  was  for  awhile,  before  the  hunters  finally 
defeated  the  animal  by  the  aid  of  a  re-enforcement  from  the  shore.  This  creek  is 
charted  on  Clark's  map  by  the  name  of  "  White  Heard  Cr."  This  is  certaiidy  the 
same  creek  ;  T  su])pose  "  Heard  "  is  here  a  slip  of  the  graver,  and  we  know  these 
bears  were  variously  called  "  white  "  or  "  brown."  Clark  runs  it  into  the  Missouri 
right  for  the  distances  given  above  Gibson's  .ind  helow  liratton's  creek. 


Ij 


.M'  ...■ 


i 


i 


!'■     I 


;      1 


f  n 


If 


310 


A    I!i:AR-UrNT— A    NARROW    ISlAl'i:. 


as  he  c.iine  near,  tlie  two  lumters  who  hau  rcscivcd  their 
fire  gave  liiin  two  wounds,  one  of  wliich.  breaking  his 
shoulilor,  retaiiletl  his  motion  for  a  nioni'.-iit ;  but  before  tliey 
could  rcloatl  lie  was  so  near  tliat  tlicy  v.cre  obliged  to  run 
to  the  (/>.  j/7)  river,  and  before  they  reached  it  lie  had 
almost  overtaken  tliem.  Two  jumped  into  the  canoe  ;  tlie 
other  four  separated,  and  concealing  themselves  in  the  wil- 
lows, fired  as  fast  as  each  could  reload.  They  struck  him 
several  times,  but  insteatl  of  weakening  the  monster,  each 
s'lot  seemed  only  to  direct  him  toward  the  hunter  ;  till  at  last 
he  pursued  two  of  them  so  closely  that  they  threw  aside 
their  guns  and  pouchrs,  and  jumped  down  a  perpendicular 
bank  of  20  feet  into  the  river.  The  bear  sprang  after  them 
ami  was  within  a  few  feet  c;f  the  hindmost,  wl-.eii  one  of  the 
hunters  on  shore  shot  him  in  the  head  and  finally  killed  him. 
Tluy  drargcd  him  to  the  shore,  and  found  that  eight  balls 
had  p.issed  through  him  in  different  directions.  The  bi,;r 
was  old  and  the  meat  toug!.,so  that  they  took  the  skin  onl}, 
and  rejoined  us  at  camp,  where  wc  had  been  as  much  terri- 
fied by  an  accident  of  a  different  kind."" 

This  was  the  narrow  escai)e  of  one  of  oui'  canoes,  con- 
taining all  our  papers,  instruments,  medicine,  and  almost 
every  article  indispens.ible  for  the  success  of  our  enterprise. 
The  canoe  being  under  sail,  a  sudden  squall  of  wind  struck 

'"  "  Whicli.  .  .  I  cannot  rci-oUcct  but  with  the  utniosl  IreiiiiUituin  and  hormr, 
...  it  liapponi'il  unfurtunatcly  for  us  this  I'vcninj^  that  Cliarbono  was  at  the 
hehvi  of  this  IVrojjue,  instead  of  Drewyer.  .  .  Charbono  cannot  swim  and  is  pir- 
ha])s  the  nmsi  'iniiil  waterman  in  the  worhl.  .  .  the  peroj;ue  tlien  wrij;hled  Imt 
ha<l  Tilled  within  an  inch  of  the  j^iuiwals  ;  C'liarbnno  still  cryinj;  to  !ii^  (;od  tor 
mercy,  h.id  not  yet  recollected  the  rudder,  nor  couKl  the  repeated  orders  of  the 
liowsnian,  (.'ruzat,  bring  him  to  Iiis  recollection  untill  he  threatened  to  shoot  him 
instantly  if  he  did  not  take  holi'  of  the  rudder  and  do  his  duty.  .  .  .  the  forti- 
tude, resohilion  and  j;ood  coiuhict  of  fru/at  saved  her,"  Lewis  I)  126,  127.  The 
CO  le\  continues  with  tlie  record  of  Lewis'  wild  impulse,  for  a  moment,  to  jump 
into  tlie  river  and  swim  for  the  boat,  300  yards  aw.iy  ;  but  ad<ls  that  h«  wo\dd 
have  paid  tlie  forfeit  of  his  lifo  for  this  n\a<lness,  whidi  is  (juite  true  When 
tiiinjjs  had  (p.iieted  down,  "  we  thouj;ht  >l  a  proper  occasion  to  console  our- 
selves and  cheer  the  sperits  of  our  men  and  nccordin^;ly  took  :•  drink."  We 
m.iy  hope,  for  the  creilit  of  .Sacajitwea's  feminine  instincts,  that  she  viewed  the 
survival  of  her  lord  and  legal  owner  with  emotions  not  unmixed. 


i.J^^ 


TIIK    III:K()    AM)    HKKOIXK    of   THK    OCCASION'.  311 

her  obliquely  and  turned  Iier  considerably.     Tlie  man  at  tiic 
helm,  who  was  unluckily  the  worst  steersman  of  tlic  party 

HC.me  alarmed,  and  instead  of  putting  her  before  the  wind 
lidfcd  I.er  np  into  it.     The  wind  was  so  hif,d,  that  it  forced 
the  l)race  of  the  s(p,are-sail  out  of  the  hand  of  the  man  who 
was  attending  to  it,  and  instantly  upset  the  canoe,  which 
would   have  been  turned   bottom  upward  but  for  the  resist- 
a.ice  made  by   the  awning.     Such    was    the   confusion  on 
board,  and  the  waves  ran  so  high,  that  it  was  half  a  minute 
before  she  righted,  and  then  was  nearly  full  of  water-  but 
by  bailing  out  she  was  kept  from  sinking  until  they  rowed 
|i.slu,rc.      Hes.des  the  loss  of  the  lives  of  three  men,  wJ,o  not 
being  able  to  swim  would  probably  have  perished,  we  should 
iKive  been  deprived  of  nearly  eveiything  necessary  for  our 
purposes,  at  a   distance  of  between  2,(XX)  and   3,000  miles 
from  any  place  where  we  could  supply  the  deficiency 

ip.2iS).Uayit,f/t.  A,s  soon  as  a  slight  shower  of  rain 
iia.l  passed,  we  spread  out  the  articles  to  dry  but  the 
weatherwas  so  damp  and  cloudy  that  they  derived  little 
benefit  from  exposure.  Our  hunters  procured  us  deer, 
buffaio,  and  beaver. 

May  16///.  The  morning  was  fair,  and  we  were  enablcil 
to  dry  and  repack  our  stores.  The  loss  we  sustained  is 
c  uefly  Ml  the  medicines,  many  articles  of  which  are  com- 
pletely spoiled,  and  others  considerably  injured."  At  four 
o  clock  we  embarked,  and  after  making  seven  miles  camped 
on  the  north  near  some  woods.  The  country  on  both  sides 
IS  broken  ;  the  low  grounds  are  narrower  and  with  less  tim- 
ber, though  there  are  some  scattered  pine  and  cedar  on  the 
steep  declivities  of  the  hills,  which  are  now  higher  than 
usual.  A  white  bear  tore  the  coat  of  [I.abiche]  one  of  the 
men,  which  had  been   left  on  shore;  and  two  of  the  party 

•»  Sacaiaw.a's  cnn.Uul  on  lh,r  ,„vasi,>„  is  |„  I,.,  a.lmircl  in  ilxlf    as  wdl  .s  l,v 
c-,r..s,  .vi.h  ,ha.„f  her  .raven    Kren-h  apo%.«y  f.,r  a  n.M..      •■The    In,l,a 
"■'"—.  '"  «l-;m  I  a.  ril,c  ..,,ual  f„r,i„„l..  an,!  r..s.,;„.i..n  wi...  a„v  ,,cTs„n  „n  hoard 
..I  n,..,Mn,.  o,  .1,,.  an„l..n.,  .a„,l„   ,n,l  prcscrvcl  ,„ost  of  the  lit;l,t  articles  which 
were  waslifil  overlmani,"  Lewis  I)  ,),). 


IV      :• 


312 


BRATTON  S  AND   RATTLESNAKE   CREEKS. 


i 


wounded  a  large  panther  [cougar,  Felts  co7icolor\  which  was 
feasting  on  a  deer.  We  caught  some  lean  antelopes  as 
they  were  swimming  the  river,  and  killed  two  buffaloes. 

May  lyth.  We  set  out  early  and  proceeded  on  very 
well ;  the  banks  being  firm  and  the  shore  bold,  we  were 
enabled  to  use  the  towline,  which,  whenever  the  banks  will 
permit  it,  is  the  safest  and  most  expeditious  mode  of  ascend- 
ing the  river,  except  under  sail  with  a  steady  breeze.  At 
the  distance  of  \oyi  miles  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  a 
small  creek  on  the  south,  below  which  the  hills  approach 
the  river,  and  continue  near  it  during  the  day.  Three  miles 
further  is  a  large  creek  [Bratton's'"]  on  the  north  ;  and  again, 
63/(  miles  beyond  this,  is  another  large  creek,"  to  the  south ; 
both  containing  a  small  quantity  of  running  water,  of  a 
brackish  taste.  Tl;e  last  we  called  Rattlesnake  [or  Burnt 
Lodge]  c  cek,  from  our  seeing  that  animal  \Crotahis  con- 
Jlnciitus]  near  it.  Although  no  timber  can  be  observed  on 
it  from  the  Missouri,  it  throws  out  large  quantities  of  drift- 
wood, among  which  were  some  pieces  of  coal  brought  down 

'"Xameil  for  William  lirattoii,  a.  private  of  the  party  ;  so  called  in  the  Sum- 
mar)'  Statement,  though  no  name  apjiears  in  Lewis  I),  this  date,  and  consequently 
HiiUUe  gives  none  ;  charted  by  Clark  under  this  name.  It  is  a  cimsiderable 
stream,  now  known  as  Timber  creek  of  Ileaji.  The  above  mentioned  "small 
creek  on  the  south,"  beforp  Bratton's  is  reached,  I  find  no  name  for  anywhere, 
and  cannot  identify  now.  There  is  a  nameless  creek  charted  by  Clark,  next 
before  Burnt  Lodge  creek,  but  it  does  not  come  into  the  Missouri  in  the  right 
place  to  answer  for  the  one  here  in  question,  as  it  is  up-river  from  Bratton's. 

"  Rattlesnake  creek  does  not  reappear  in  the  Summary  Statement.  There  we 
have,  instead,  three  creeks  between  Brown  Bear  Defeated  and  the  mouth  of  the 
Mu-iselshell,  namely  :  I,  Bratton's  creek,  N.;  2,  Burnt  Lodge  creek,  S. ;  3,  Wiser's 
creek,  N.  But  Rattlesnake  and  Burnt  Lodge  are  one  creek — the  former  is 
Lewis' name  of  it,  the  latter  is  Clark's.  "  Capt.  Clark  narrowly  escajieil  being 
bitten  by  a  rattlesnake  in  the  course  of  his  walk  ;  .  .  .  we  called  this  stream 
rattlesnake  creek,"  Lewis  D  102,  103.  Then  Clark  put  it  in  his  Summary 
Statement  as  Burntlodge  creek,  from  the  other  accident  which  happened  this 
day,  when  their  leather  tent  was  near  being  destroyed  by  fire  :  "  notwithstand- 
ing the  lodge  was  fifty  paces  distant  from  the  fire  it  sustained  considerable 
injury  from  the  burning  coals  which  were  tlirown  on  it  "  by  the  high  wind, 
Lewis  I)  103,  Clark's  map  charts,  "  Burnt  Lodge  Cr."  plainh — on  the  S.,  next 
to  Wiser's,  N.  This  stream  is  called  (Quarrel  creek  on  Heap's  map  (but  it  is 
not  Quarrel  R.  of  Stevens',  no>v  Killed  Wcuian's  creek,  on  the  north). 


H 


III       'iii|iiii>i„ 


CIIARACTFR  OF  THE  COUNTRY— ALARM   OF   FIRE.        313 

by  the  stream.     We  continued  for  1^4  miles,  and  camped 
on  the  south  after  making  (/.  2ip)  2o>^  miles. 

The  country  in   general   is  rugged  ;  the  hills  are   high, 
with  their  summits  and  sides   partially  covered  with  pine 
and   cedar,  and  their  bases  on  both  sides  washed  by  the 
river.     Like  those    already  mentioned,  the    lower   part  of 
these   hills    is   a  dark   rich    loam,  while  the  upper  region 
for    150    feet  consists  of  a   whitish-brown   sand,  so    hard 
in  many  places  as  to  resemble  stone,  though  in  fact  very 
httle  stone  or  rock  of  any  kind  is  to  be  seen  on  the  hills. 
The  bed  of  the  Missouri  is  much  narrower  than  usual,  being 
not  more  than  betsveen  2cx3  and  300  yards  in  width,  with  an 
uncommonly  large  proportion  of  gravel  ;  but  the  sand-bars, 
and   low  points  covered  with  willows,  have  almost  entirely 
disappeared.     The  timber  on  the  river  consists  of  scarcely 
anything  more  than  a  few  scattered  Cottonwood  trees.     The 
saline  incrustations,  along  the  banks  and  the  foot  of  the 
hills,  are  more  abundant  than  usual. 

The  game  is  in  great  quantities,  but  the  buffalo  are  not 
so  numerous  as  they  were  some  days  ago;  two  rattle- 
snakes [Crota/iis  confliicntus\  were  seen  to-day,  and  one  of 
them  was  killed.  It  resembles  those  of  the  middle  Atlantic 
States  \C.  horridus\  being  about  30  inches  long,  of  a  yel- 
lowish  brown  on  the  back  and  sides,  variegated  with  a  row  of 
oval  dark  brown  spots  lying  transversely  on  the  ba  1:  'rom 
tlie  neck  to  the  tail,  and  two  other  rows  of  circular  spots  of 
the  same  color  on  the  sides  along  the  edge  of  the  scuta ; 
there  are  176  scuta  on  the  belly,  and  17  on  the  tail. 

Captain  Clark  saw  in  his  excursions  a  fortified  Indian 
camp  which  appeared  to  have  been  recently  occupied,  and 
was,  we  presumed,  made  by  a  party  of  Minnetarecs  who 
went  to  war  last  March. 

Late^  at  night  wc  were  roused  by  the  sergeant  of  the 
guard,  in  consequence  of  a  fire  which  had  communicated  to 
a  tree  overhanging  our  camp.  The  wind  was  so  high  that 
we  had  not  removed  the  camp  more  tlian  a  few  minutes 
when  a  large  part  of  the  tree  fell  precisely  on  the  spot  we 


m 


\k 


■tsr- 


if 


k     :' 


II  # 


I 


1   ;*  ! 


i    1 

1  ?■  !■ 


3H 


wiser's  crekk— mountains  in  prospect. 


had  occupied,  and  would  have  crushed  us  if  we  had  not 
been  alarmed  in  time. 

{/>.JJ0)  May  \Zth.  The  wind  continued  high  from  the 
west,  but  by  means  of  the  towline"  we  were  able  to  make 

19  miles,  the  sand-bars  being  now  few  in  number,  the  river 
narrow,  and  the  current  gentle  ;  the  willow  has  in  a  great 
measure  disappeared,  and  even  the  Cottonwood,  almost  the 
only  timber  remaining,  is  growing  scarce.  At  123^  miles 
we  came  to  a  creek  (Wiser's"]  on  the  north,  which  was 
perfectly  dry.  VVe  camped  on  the  south,  opposite  the  lower 
point  of  an  island. 

May  \<^th.  Last  night  was  disagreeably  cold  ;  in  the 
morning  there  was  a  very  heavy  fog,  which  obscured  the 
river  so  much  as  to  prevent  our  seeing  the  way.  This  is 
the  first  fog  of  any  degree  of  thickness  which  we  have  expe- 
rienced. There  was  also  last  evening  a  fall  of  dew,  the 
second  which  we  have  seen  since  entering  this  extensive 
opf.n  country.  About  eight  o'clock  the  fog  dispersed,  and 
we  proceeded  with  the  aid  of  the  towline.  The  island  near 
which  we  camped  was  three-quarters  of  a  mil<*  in  length. 
Tile  country  resembles  that  of  yesterday,  high  hills  "  closely 

"Singular  to  say,  Lewis  and  Clark  never  speak  of  "  cordelling,"  which  is  the 
us.ual  expression  for  the  act  of  pulling  a  boat  up  stream  by  a  rope  from  the  shore. 

^  This  is  Wiser's  creek,  so  called  from  Peter  Wiser,  one  of  the  privates  of  the 
party.  It  is  nameless  in  the  text,  and  Lewis  D  105,  106,  this  date,  has  simply  a 
creek  "  Staril."  But  it  is  Wiser's  in  the  Summary  Statement,  and  charted  by 
this  name  plainly  on  Clark's  map,  where  it  appears  as  the  lust  creek  on  the  right 
ham!  or  starboard,  north  side,  before  coming  to  the  Musselshell  river.  This  is 
now  called  P'ourchette  creek— on  so.me  maps  I'ouchette,  Ponchatte  or  Ponchet,  bv 
mistake.  It  is  a  considerable  stream — when  it  is  full  ;  when  dry,  quite  a  marked 
coulee. 

'*  Lewis  D  107,  this  date,  notes  that  Capt.  Clark,  on  a.scending  a  height,  first 
siglited  the  Musselshell,  to  be  presently  reached.  lie  also  had  in  prospect  from  this 
oniinence  a  rdNi^i  0/ mounidiiis,  difitant  40  or  50  miles.  The.se  were  the  Little 
Rocky  mountains,  of  which  the  narrative  will  speak  in  due  course  by  the  name  of 
the  North  mountain.  Since  the  Expedition  passed  Fort  Peck,  I  have  each  day 
expected  to  find  in  the  codices  mention  of  some  other  prominent  landmarks  ; 
but  none  appear  to  have  been  recorded.     One  of  these  is  Tiger  or  Panthe?  butte, 

20  miles  N.N.W.  of  Fort  Peck.  A  second  is  Round  butte,  smith,  near  the  Mis- 
!,ouri,  about  halfway  between  Uig  Dry  river  and  the  Musselshell  ;    and  a  third. 


I    I 


1J» 


ift^fagfimiMi" 


Z3L 


/^*h-' 


not 


BLOWINU-ILV  CR1:EK-A   LAkGL    RIVER   REACHED.      315 

bordering  the  river.     In  the  afternoon  the  river  became 
crooked,  and  contained   more  sawyers  or  floating    timber 
tlian  we  have  seen  in  the  same  space  since  leaving  the  PJatte 
Our  game  consisted    of  deer,  beaver,  and    elk.     We  also 
killed  a  brown  bear,  which,  though  shot  through  the  heart, 
ran  at  h  s  usual  pace  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  before  he 
fell.     A.  21  miles  is  a  willow-island   half  a  mile  in  length 
on  the  north  side,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  which  is  a 
shoal  of   rapid  water  under  a  bluff;  the  water  continued 
very  strong  for  some  distance  beyond  it  ;  at  half  a  mile  we 
came  to  a  sand-bar  on  the  north,  from  which  to  our  camp 
was  another  half  mile,  making  in  all  22;^  miles.     The  saline 
substances  which  we  have  mentioned  continue  to  appear  • 
the  men  are  much  afflicted  with  sore  eyes  and  imposthumes' 
May  20th.     As    usual,  we  set  out  early,  and   the   banks 
being  convenient  for  that  purpose,  we   used  the  towline. 
(A  221)    The  river  is  narrow  and  crooked,  the  water  rapid 
and  the  country  much  like  that  of  yesterday.     At  the  dis' 
tance  of  2%  miles  we  passed  a  large  creek  [from  the  south], 
with  but  httle  water,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  of  Blowing. 
fly     creek,  from  the  quantity  cf  those  insects  »  found  in  its 
neighborhood.     They  are  extremely  troublesome,  infesting 
our  meat  while  we  are  cooking,  and  at  our  meal-      After 
making   seven    miles  we    reached    by   eleven    „  uock   the 
mouth  of  a  large  river  cw  the  south,  and  camped   for  the 
day  at  the  upper  point  of  its  junction  with  the  Missouri 

This  stream,  which  we  suppose  to  be  that  called  by  the 
M.nnetarees  [Mahtush-ahzhah  "1  the  Muscleshell  [Mussel- 

near  the  last,  is  Church  bu.te.     The  last  two  probably  were  not  seen  .simply 
because  the  party  were  immediately  under  the  high  bluffs  bordering  the  river 

Not  in  the  Summary  Staten.eut  ;  not  charted  on  Clark's  map  ;  the  last  creek 
from  the  south  .n  approaching  the  Musselshell.  Lewis  D  132  supplies  the 
required  data  not  in  the  text:  "large  creek  on  Eard.  25  yds.  will,  called 
blowing  My  Cr."     This  is  now  Squaw  creek. 

'«  Blowflies,  Musca  vomitoria  or  a  related  species. 

"  So  Clark  C^49.  in  a  list  of  Indian  names  ;  the  element  "  ahzhah  "  is  simply 
nver.  Lew.s  D  ,29,  this  date,  leaves  a  blank  space,  not  filled  in  with  any 
Indian  name  ;  hence  none  appears  in  the  te.xt.     For  the  English  name   the 


■w 


m 


V 


p^ 


-:!■ 


316 


THE   MUSSELSHELL   RIVER. 


shell]  river,  empties  into  the  Missouri  2,270  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  the  latter  river,  in  latitude  47°  o'  24j^"  north. 
It  is  1 10  yards  wide,  and  contains  more  water  than  streams 
of  that  size  usually  do  in  this  country  ;  its  current  is  by  no 
means  rapid,  and  there  is  every  appearance  of  its  being 
susceptible  of  navigation  by  canoes  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance. Its  bed  is  chiefly  formed  of  coarse  sand  and  gravel, 
with  an  occasional  mixture  of  black  mud ;  the  banks  are 
abrupt  and  nearly  twelve  feet  high,  so  that  they  are 
secure  from  being  overflowed;  the  water  is  of  a  greenish- 
yellow  cast,  and  much  more  transparent  than  that  of  the 
Missouri,  which  itself,  though  clearer  than  below,  still 
retains  its  whitish  hue  and  a  portion  of  its  sediment. 
Opposite  the  point  of  junction  the  current  of  the  Mis- 
souri is  gentle,  and  222  yards  in  width ;  the  bed  is  princi- 
pally of  mud,  the  little  sand  remaining  being  wholly  con- 
fined to  the  points,  and  [the  water  is]  still  too  deep  to 
use  the  setting-pole. 

If  this  be,  as  we  suppose,  the  Muscleshell,  our  Indian 
information  is  that  it  rises  in  the  first  chain  of  the  Rocky 
mountains  not  far  [see  note]  from  the  sources  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone, whence  in  its  course  to  this  place  it  waters  a 
high  broken  country,  well  timbered,  particularly  on  its 
borders,  and  interspersed  with  handsome  fertile  plains  and 

codices  usually  have  Muscleshell,  as  one  or  two  words  ;  sometimes  "  Mustle- 
shell  :  "  once  "  Cockkleshell  ;  "  occasionally  "  Shell"  river.  I  prefer  to  write 
Musselshell,  but  do  not  alter  the  text.  The  river  is  properly  identitied,  but  the 
latitude  assigned  (Lewis  D  132)  is  not  f.ir  enough  north,  as  the  JUth  of  the 
river  is  nearly  up  to  47°  30'.  It  heads  in  the  Little  Belt  mountains,  not  far 
from  a  place  called  White  Sulphur  Springs,  in  Meagher  Co.,  east  of  the  Big 
Belt  mountains,  runs  easterly  between  the  Big  Snowy  mountains  and  Bull  moun- 
tains, in  a  course  approximately  parallel  with  that  of  the  Yellowstone,  to  about 
107°  30'  W.  long.,  and  then  turns  northward  to  the  Missouri.  Its  sources  are 
thus  a  good  deal  north  of  those  of  the  Yellowstone,  though  approximately  on 
the  same  meridian.  The  Musselshell  is  geologically  interesting  as  indicat- 
ing the  first  changes  in  the  hitherto  unbroken  cretaceous  formation  which  the 
Missouri  has  so  long  traversed.  Just  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Musselshell 
begin  the  evidences  of  volcanic  action,  and  some  of  its  tributaries,  as  well  as 
the  river  itself,  arise  in  paleozoic  rncks  (permo-carboniferous).  The  course  of 
the  river  is,  however,  mainly  through  the  cretaceous. 


SACAJAWEA'S   BRAN'CH    of  the    MUSSELSHELL.       317 


a 

its 


on 

icat- 
the 

as 
;e  of 


meadows.  We  have  reason,  however,  to  believe,  from  their 
giving  a  similar  account  of  the  timber  (/.  222)  where  we 
now  are,  that  the  timber  of  which  they  speak  is  similar  to 
that  which  we  have  seen  for  a  few  d<iys  past,  which  consists 
of  nothing  more  than  a  few  straggling  small  pines  and  dwarf 
cedars  on  the  summits  of  the  hills,  nine-tenths  of  the  ground 
being  totally  destitute  of  wood,  and  covered  with  short 
grass,  aromatic  herbs,  and  an  immense  quantity  of  prickly- 
pear  {Opuntia  fragilis\ ;  though  the  party  who  explored  it  for 
eight  miles  represented  the  low  grounds  on  the  river  to  be 
well  supplied  with  cottonwood  of  a  tolerable  size,  and  of  an 
excellent  soil.  They  also  report  that  the  country  is  broken 
and  irregular,  like  that  near  our  camp;  and  that  about  five 
miles  up,  a  handsome  river,  about  fifty  yards  wide,  which 
we  named  after  Chaboneau's  wife,  Sahcajahwcah's,"*  or  the 
Bird  woman's  river,  discharges  into  the  Muscleshell  on  the 
north  or  upper  side. 

Another  party  [?.<'.,  John  Shields]  found  at  the  foot  of 
the  southern  hills,  about  four  miles  from  the  Missouri,  a 
fine  bold  spring,  which  in  this  country  is  so  rare  that  since 
we  left  the  Mandans  we  have  found  only  one  of  a  similar 
kind.  That  was  under  the  bluffs  en  the  south  side  of  the 
Missouri,  at  some  distance  from  it,  and  about  five  miles 
below  the  Yellowstone.  With  this  exception,  all  the  small 
fountains,  of  which  we  have  met  a  numbei,  are  impregnated 
witii  the  salts  which  are  so  abundant  here,  and  with  which 
the  Missouri  is  itself  most  probably  tainted,  though  to  us, 
who  have  been  so  much  accustomed  to  it,  the  taste  is  not 
perceptible. 

Among  the  game  to-day  we  observed  two  large  owls 
\Bubo  virginianus],  with  remarkably  long  feathers  resem- 

■'*  Her  name  is  usually  spelled  Sacaiawea.  "About  five  miles  abe  [above]  the 
mouth  of  [the  Mussel]  Shell  river  a  handsome  river  of  about  fifty  vards  in  width 
discharged  itself  into  the  Shell  river  on  the  Stard.  or  uppe*-  side  ;  this  stream 
we  called  Sah-c.i-jjee-me  ah  or  bird  woman  s  River,  after  our  interpreter  the  Snake 
woman,"  Lewis  D  131,  with  "  Sahcagahwea  "  interlined  in  red  ink  by  Clark  in- 
stead of  the  other  form  of  the  name,  which  ht  de'etes.  This  river  is  on  recent 
maps  as  Crooked  creek. 


!  il 


3i8 


MUSSEI.SIIEI-L   BEND  OF  THE   MISSOURI. 


bling  ears  on  the  sides  of  the  head,  which  we  presume  are 
the  hooting-owls,  though  they  are  larger  and  their  colors 
arc  brighter  than  those  common  in  the  United  States. 

May  2ist.  The  morning  being  very  fine,  we  were  able  to 
employ  the  rope,"  and  made  20  miles  to  our  camp  on  the 
north.  The  shores  of  the  river  are  abrupt,  bold,  and  com- 
posed of  a  black  and  yellow  clay,  the  bars  being  formed  of 
black  mud  and  a  small  proportion  of  fine  sand ;  the  current 
is  strong.  In  its  course  the  Missouri  makes  a  sudden 
{p.  22j)  and  extensive  bend  toward  the  south,  to  receive 
the  waters  of  the  Musclcshcll.  The  neck  of  land  thus 
formed,  though  itself  high,  is  lower  than  the  surrounding 
country,  and  makes  a  waving  valley,  extending  for  a  great 
distance  to  the  northward,  with  a  fertile  soil  which,  though 
without  wood,  produces  a  fine  turf  of  low  grass,  some 
herbs,  and  vast  quantities  of  prickly  pear.  The  country  on 
the  south  is  high,  broken,  and  crowned  with  some  pine  and 
dwarf  cedar  ;  the  leaf  of  this  pine  is  longer  than  that  of  the 
common  pitch  or  red  pine  of  Virginia  [J^t/tus  rigidd\ ;  the 
cone  is  longer  and  narrower,  the  imbrications  are  wider 
and  thicker,  and  the  whole  is  frequently  covered  with  rosin. 
During  the  whole  day  the  bends  of  the  river  are  short  and 
sudden  ;  the  points  are  covered  with  some  cottonwood, 
large  or  broad-leaved  willow,  and  a  small  quantity  of  red- 
wood ;  the  undergrowth  consisting  of  wild  roses  and  the 
bushes  of  the  small  honeysuckle. 

The  mineral  appearances  on  the  river  are  as  usual.  We 
do  not  find  the  grouse  or  prairie-hen  so  abundant  as  below, 
?.nd  think  it  probable  that  tiiey  retire  from  the  river  to  the 
plains  during  this  season. 

The  wind  had  been  moderate  during  the  forepart  of  the 
day,  but  continued  to  rise  toward  evening  ;  about  dark  it 
veered  to  the  northwest,  and  blew  a  storm  all  night.  We 
had  camped  on  a  bar  on  the  north,  opposite  the  lower  point 
of    an    island,    which    from    this   circumstance    we   called 

"  "  Imploycd  tlie  chord  principally,"  Lewis  D  133  :  but  this  useful  article  of 
boat-gear  is  mostly  known  to  the  codices  as  the  "  toe  line." 


«k»^ 


WIMjV  isi.and- 


-OROUSE   OK   HKAUCHAMI-'S   CkKEK. 


319 


Wmdy  island  ->  but  we  were  so  annoyed  by  clouds  of  du  -t 
and  sand  that  we  could   neither  eat  nor  sleep   and   u 
creed  to  ren,ove  our  ca.p  at  eight  o'clock  to  'thoot 7; 
a     adjo.„.„     H.„,  ,,,.„,  shielded  us  in  son,e  degrcW  on 
the  w.nd.     VVe  procured  elk.  deer,  and  buffalo.     ^ 

(A  ^^^r)  three  mile,  beyond  ,hi,  we  came  ,o  .l,e  en  ra  ,ce 

{.rouse,  f.djacUes  columb,amis\  the  first  we  have  seen  i„ 
s..ch    numbers   for  several   days.     The    low   ground        ' 
somewhat  wider  than  usual,  and  apparently  Tef.   e     h„u  Jl 

much'"  ■  irss'-rror^Vhe"  '"= """ "'-  -'  '■•■'^'-' 

broken    as    that   of'^ester  lay^bu"  Ts  ",°m"'   ''^  "°'   =° 

so«he™  i,i,,s  p„ssess^,;r:f  pinr.h  n":  ara™':„':: 
T;':?„a7sa't';:;"''"",*''"^'  "■'■'^'- »-  --^p-'^' 

">  riie  usual  salt  and  mineral  appearances. 

selshell.  ^  ^^"^  '"'^'^^  "  f^"'"  tl.e  mouth  of  tl>c  Mus- 

of  the  Mutselshe  .  T  1  ::  ■,  ;:  ;  ^^  "^  '^^  ^°  .""'^  "P"--  from  the  mouth 
■.oat-voyage  fro„.  Henton  to  l"s in  k  w7  ""  7"  ''"''•  ""  ''"^^'  ""  "- 
actor  i„  those  part.s-a  ,o,k1  ai,     "  ""•,  "     ""^  ■^""  '"'  =^  "'^'^■"  ^■•>- 

Mith  the  county  ami  the  I  ulu  ,  f  "'""■  "'"""«'''>"  "'"•''-•">'-' 
l-eing  web-finjred  in  „t     t,  ^^   .        -'.'"-"-ual  personal  peculiarities  of 

was  very  quick  on  the  tr  1     it    .1   '""'^"""^  ''''  -^'>'  '^l"'''--!  ;  but  he 

a  deep  bend  to  the  Star.!.,"  l' „  is  I  ,  I  thi'.  •  '  °"  "  'f '^'  ^'''^■-  '" 
champ's  creel:,  as  it  is  now  calle.l,  from  he  north  ^t  i  7T^  "' "  '"  '"="- 
-p.     The  Expedition  approaches  the  sit:  J  tt  H    W        ''C m"  "'"''^ 


Wl 


390 


riSII,    DEER,    y\ND   REAR. 


1|:    S 


■  I 


The  river  continues  about  250  yards  wide,  with  fewer 
sand-bars,  and  the  current  more  gentle  and  regular.  Game 
is  no  longer  in  such  abundance  since  leaving  the  Muscle- 
shell.  We  have  caught  very  few  fish  on  this  side  of  the 
Mandans,  and  these  were  the  white  catfish  [/cta/urus 
pmictatHs],  of  two  to  five  pounds.  We  killed  a  deer  and  a 
bear.  We  have  not  seen  in  this  quarter  the  black  bear 
[Ursus  amcrtcnnus],  common  in  the  United  States  and  on 
the  lower  parts  of  the  Missouri,  nor  have  we  discerned  any 
of  their  tracks.  They  may  easily  be  distinguished  by  the 
shortness  of  the  talons  from  the  brown,  grizzly,  or  white 
bear  [i/rsus  horrihilis\,  all  of  which  seem  a  be  of  the  same 
family  [species'],  which  assumes  those  colors  at  different 
seasons  of  the  year.  We  halted  earlier  than  usual,  and 
camped  on  the  north,  in  a  point  of  woods,  at  the  distance 
of  16^  miles  [thus  past  the  site  of  Fort  Hawley,  on  the 
south]. 


1 


^^v 


CHAPTER    IX. 

THE   MISSOURI   l-ROM  TH..:   MUSSELSHELL  TO   MARIA'S 

RIVER. 

AbafTal„charR.s  ,h«  camp-Judith'  ivc-  '"V";  '""'•'"^' "'  l'.«-hor„ed  ,l,...p_ 
budal.  drive,  „ver  l.rccip  ,  „/  '  i,,!,;"?  s  "I"  '"'''•'"  «'"1»-Ash  r.,pid,_Herd»  of 
adva„ci„«^-Ar,h,,cclural'efr;rof       rr.-^tl..::;-"'-"^^    rai.,-Dirr,cul,y   of 

/Ip^AY  23cl,  I80S.     Last  night  the  frost  was  severe  ;  this 

wl  pa  Id  ,/  °"  °T  °'"-  ^'  *^'-'  ^'■^^^"'^^  °f  a  mile 
r^d  Teano  V '"ri°'  ^  "^^'"^  °"  ^'-  -'-t'''  which  we 
mZiJ  T'  '  "  "  '5  yards  wide,  and  though  it  has 

running  water  at  a  small  distance  from  its  mout^,   ve? 
discharges  none  into  the  Missouri  •    Hn.e  u      ^ 

They  indeed  afford  but  litUe  water   1  "'"'  '  ''  "■'"''• 

.0  co^e  f.o,„  a  ran.e  of  low  hill,,-  >v|,ich  run  IroZ.lVtTo 

a  river-bank  for  70  n  iles  I  e  vis  J^'  '«''".>^-'.*^"'  '>'"'*  ^^«  "°t  to  be  seen  from 
>-  iine  of  visionLen,  Liui  ;::  uT^r'^i^  Jf'"  "^"""^'"^'  ""'^'^  '" 
Crroll.  up  a  .,.,,  rid.e  S.NV..  .U Z      et   .    touIdT  ""  °' '''  '''"  "' 

^      leci,  nt  wouia  have  seen  an  exten- 

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322       TEAPOT  OR  YELLOW  CREEK— HAZEN'S  RIVER. 


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west  for  70  miles,  and  have  their  eastern  extremity  30  miles 
to  the  north  of  Teapot  creek.  Just  above  its  entrance  is 
a  large  assemblage  of  the  burrowing-squirrels  on  the  north 
side  of  the  river.  At  nine  mi'es  we  reached  the  upper 
point  of  ail  island  in  a  bend  on  the  south,  and  opposite  the 
center  of  the  island,  a  small  dry  creek  on  the  north.  Half  a 
mile  further  a  small  creek  falls  in  on  the  same  side.'  At  6^ 
miles  beyond  this  is  another,  on  the  souih.*  At  4}4  miles 
(/.  226)  we  passed  a  small  island  in  a  deep  bend  to  the  north, 
and  on  the  same  side,  in  a  deep  northeastern  bend  of  the 
river,  another  small  island.  None  of  these  creeks,  however, 
possessed  any  water,  and  at  the  entrances  of  the  islands  the 
two  first  are  covered  with  tall  cottonwoods,  and  the  last 
with  willows  only.  The  river  has  become  more  rapid  ;  the 
country  is  much  the  same  as  yesterday,  except  that  there 
is  rather  more  rock  on  the  face  of  the  hills,  and  some  small 
spruce  appears  among  the  pitch-pines.  The  wild  roses  are 
very  abundant  and  now  in  bloom  ;  they  differ  from  those  of 
the  United  States  only  in  having  the  I"  vs  and  the  bush 
itself  of  a  somewhat  smaller  size.  We  find  t^^e  ^lOsquitoes 
troublesome,  notwithstanding  the  coolness  of  the  morning; 

sive  prairie  N.,  30  miles  of  bad  lands  S.,  and  these  mountains:  the  Little 
Rockies,  N.  30  miles  ;  Bear's  Paw,  N.  W.  70  miles ;  Judith's,  S.  W.  40  miles  ; 
Big  and  Little  Moccasins,  west  of  and  near  Judith's ;  beyond  which  latter  are 
the  Snowies,  S.,and  the  Little  Belts,  S.  \V.,  the  latter  separated  from  each  other 
by  Judith's  Gap,  through  which  a  head  of  Judith's  river  seeks  the  Missouri. 
This  gap  is  due  south  of  the  mouth  of  Judith's  river,  about  75  miles  as  the  crow 
flies.     The  "  low  hills"  of  the  text  are  at  least  s.cwo  feet  high. 

'  Immediate  vicinity  of  the  present  town  of  Carroll,  by  Twining's  distances 
17^  miles  above  Beauchamp's  creek — practically  the  identical  distance  that 
Lewis  and  Clark  make  it  from  their  Grouse  creek.  This  point  is  640  miles 
above  Bismarck,  and  165  miles  below  Benton.  It  came  into  existence  when  the 
road  was  opened  from  Helena  to  this  point,  and  in  1875  consisted  of  20  or  25 
log  cabins. 

*  Nameless  in  text  and  codices  ;  uncharted  by  Clark.  It  shows  well  on 
Twining's  map,  lettered  Hazen  river,  b'/i  miles  above  Carroll.  This  map 
charts  the  identical  islands  next  mentioned  in  the  text ;  and  a  mile  or  so  above 
the  upper  one  of  these  two  islands  comes  in  Little  Rocky  Mountain  creek 
(Lewis  and  Clark's  North  Mountain  creek).  It  is  wonderful  how  closely  these 
pioneer  explorers'  distances  agree  with  the  results  of  the  best  modem  surveys. 


>      1 


NORTH   OR  LITTLE  ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  CREEK.       323 


The  buffalo  is  scarce  tixlay,  but  the  elk,  deer,  and  antelope 
are  very  numerous.  The  geese  begin  to  lose  the  feathers 
of  the  wings,  and  are  unable  to  fly.  We  saw  five  bears,  one 
of  which  we  wounded,  but  in  swimming  from  us  across  the 
river  he  became  entangled  in  some  driftwood,  and  sunk. 
We  formed  our  camp  on  the  north,  opposite  a  hill  and  a 
point  of  wood  in  a  bend  to  the  south,  having  made  2^ 
miles.' 

May  24th.  The  water  in  the  kettles  froze  one-eighth  of 
an  inch  during  the  night ;  ice  appears  along  the  margin  of 
the  river,  and  the  cottonwood  trees,  which  have  lost  nearly 
all  their  leaves  by  the  frost,  are  putting  forth  other  buds. 
We  proceeded,  with  the  towline  principally,  till  about  nine 
o'clock,  when  a  fine  breeze  sprung  up  from  the  S.E.,  and 
enabled  us  to  sail  very  well,  notwithstanding  the  rapidity 
of  the  current.  At  one  mile  and  a  half  is  a  large  [North 
Mountain]  creek,  30  yards  wide,  containing  some  water, 
which  it  empties  on  the  north  side,  over  a  gravelly  bed 
intermixed  with  some  stone.  A  man  who  was  sent  up  to 
explore  the  country  returned  in  the  eve.iing,  after  having 
gone  ten  miles  directly  toward  the  ridge  of  [the  Little 
Rocky]  mountains  to  the  north,  which  is  the  source  of 
this,  as  well  as  of  Teapot  creek.  The  air  of  these  highlands 
is  so  pure  that  objects  appear  much  nearer  than  (/.  227) 
they  really  are,  so  that,  although  our  man  went  ten  miles 
without  thinking  himself  by  any  means  halfway  to  the 
mountains,  they  do  not  from  the  river  appear  more  than 
15  miles  distant. 

This  stream  we  called  Northmountain  *  creek.    At  2 


ell  on 
map 

above 

creek 
these 

eys. 


'  Lewis  D  ends  here,  so  far  as  the  journal  is  concerned,  though  the  codex 
includes  5  %  leaves  more  of  a  meteorological  register  (now  torn  out,  making  a 
separate  codex).  The  Biddle  narrative  continues  directly  with  Codex  E,  which 
is  a  Lewis,  and  will  take  us  to  July  i6th,  at  the  Ciates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

*  The  North  mountain  of  L.  and  C.  is  the  Little  Rocky  mountains  of  present 
geographers,  rising  to  height  of  5,000  feet  or  more,  running  nearly  E.  and  W. 
on  the  parallel  of  48°  N.,  and  across  long.  108"  30'  \V.,thuB  separating  the  Milk 
river  watershed  along  here  from  that  of  the  Missouri  itself.  From  their  E.  end, 
westward  along  the  parallel  of  48°  N.  nearly  to  long.  109"  W.,  and  up  to  Milk 


i) 


3«4 


SOUTH   MOUNTAIN  CREEK. 


a 


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I'  'i 

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ti  .i 


I 


miles  higher  is  a  creek  on  the  south,  which  is  1$  yards  wide, 
but  without  any  water,  and  to  which  we  gave  the  name 
of  Littledog  creek,  from  a  village  of  burrowing-squirrels 
opposite  its  entrance,  that  being  the  name  given  by  the 
French  watermen  to  those  animals.  Three  miles  from 
this  a  small  [now  Warm  Springs]  creek  enters  on  the  north ; 
five  beyond  which  is  an  island,'  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
length  ;  and  two  miles  further,  a  small  river.  This  falls  in 
on  the  south,  is  40  yards  wide,  and  discharges  a  handsome 
stream  of  water ;  its  bed  is  rocky  with  gravel  and  sand, 
and  the  banks  are  high.  We  called  it  Southniountain* 
creek,  as  from  its  direction  it  seemed  to  rise  in  a  range  of 
mountains  about  50  or  60  miles  to  the  S.W.  of  its  entrance. 

river,  is  the  Fort  Belknap  Indian  Reservation.  The  St.  Paul,  Minn.  &  Man. 
R.  R.,  or  Great  Northern  Ry.,  runs  along  the  N.  bank  of  Milk  river  here. 
North  Mountain  creek  is  the  largest  northern  affluent  of  the  Missouri,  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Musselshell  and  below  Judith's  river,  though  not  so  large  as 
South  Mountain  river,  beyond.  It  is  now  called  Little  Rocky  Mountain  river 
or  creek — a  name  often  shortened  to  Little  Rocky,  or  Little  Rock. 

^  Named  points  in  the  Missouri,  above  North  Mountain  creek,  are  ;  I,  Bird 
shoals  or  rapids,  unnoticed  in  the  text,  probably  on  account  of  the  season  and 
consequent  state  of  the  river  ;  3,  Emil  island,  a  little  above  these  shoals  ;  and  3, 
Two  Calf  islands,  a  pair  close  to  the  mouth  of  South  Mountain  creek,  doubtless 
corresponding  to  the  single  island  of  the  text. 

*  This  is  the  first  stream  of  any  size  which  falls  into  the  Missouri  from  the 
south,  above  the  mouth  of  the  Musselshell.  The  South  mountain  of  L.  and 
C,  in  which  it  heads,  is  the  Judith  mountains,  with  elevations  from  5,000  to  6,000 
feet.  These  mountains,  and  the  Snowy  mountains  south  of  t'rem,  are  drained 
by  western  and  nortb^r.i  tributaries  of  the  Musselshell  (especially  by  the  main 
north  fork  of  this  river),  by  the  eastern  heads  of  Judith's  river,  and  by  the  South 
Mountain  river  of  our  text.  The  latter  is  now  attempted  to  be  called  after 
some  person  whose  name  no  geographers  seem  to  know ;  for  he  is  Amel,  Annel, 
Amiel,  Armel,  or  Emile,  on  varioi'.s  maps,  and  with  one  /or  two.  In  any  case, 
I  do  not  see  the  sense  or  justice  of  thus  changing  Lewis  and  Clark's  names, 
when,  as  in  the  instances  of  "  North  Mountain,"  and  "  South  Mountain,"  they 
are  absolutely  identifiable,  and  were  properly  published.  Hundreds  of  names, 
which  have  been  superseded  by  modern  inventions,  should  be  restored,  not  only 
in  equity,  but  on  the  plainest  principles  of  the  law  of  priority,  which  geographers 
pretend  to  obey.  They  must  sit  at  the  feet  of  the  xoologists  and  botanists, 
before  they  can  hope  for  any  stability  of  their  own  nomenclature.  "  Annell's 
creek,"  forsooth  t  Why  not  Tom's,  Dick's,  or  Harry's  ?  If  this  river  is  any- 
body's, it  is  Lewis  aad  Clark's. 


•■>    ! 


■"> 


THE  BLACK  HILLS,  IN  A  BROAD  SENSE. 


3*5 


1,000 
lined 


outh 
I  after 
Innel, 
lease, 

nes, 


Imes, 
I  only 
phers 
kists, 
nell't 
[any- 


The  low  grounds  are  narrow  and  without  timber;  the 
country  is  high  and  broken  ;  a  large  portion  of  black  rock 
and  brown  sandy  rock  appears  in  the  face  of  the  hills,  the 
tops  of  which  are  covered  with  scattered  pine,  spruce,  and 
dwarf  cedar;  the  soil  is  generally  poor,  sandy  near  the 
tops  of  the  hills,  and  nowhere  producing  much  grass,  the 
low  grounds  being  covered  with  little  else  than  the  hyssop, 
or  southernwood,  and  the  pulpy-leaved  thorn  [Sarcobatus 
vermiculatus  *].  Game  is  more  scarce,  particularly  beaver, 
of  which  we  have  seen  but  few  for  several  days,  and  the 
abundance  or  scarcity  of  which  seems  to  depend  on  the 
greater  or  less  quantity  of  timber.  At  2^%  miles  we  reached 
a  point  of  woodland  on  the  south,  where  we  observed  that 
the  trees  had  no  leaves,  and  camped  for  the  night. 

The  high  country  through  which  we  have  passed  for 
some  days,  and  where  we  now  are,  we  suppose  to  be  a  con- 
tinuation  of  what  the  French  traders  called  the  Cote  [Cdte] 
Noire  or  Black  hills. 

The  country  thus  denominated  consists  of  high,  broken, 
irregular  hills,  and  short  chains  of  mountains,  sometimes 
{p.  228)  120  miles  in  width,  sometimes  narrower,  but 
always  much  higher  than  the  country  on  either  side.  They 
commence  about  the  head  of  the  Kansas,  where  they 
diverge  ;  the  first  ridge  going  westward,  along  the  northern 
shore  of  the  Arkansaw.  The  second  approaches  the  Rock 
mountains  obliquely  in  a  course  a  little  to  the  W.  of  N.W., 
and  after  passing  the  Platte  above  its  forks  and  intersect*nr' 
the  Yellowstone  near  the  Bigbend,  crosses  the  Missouri  at 
this  place,  and  probably  swell  the  country  as  far  as  the 
Saskaskawan,  though,  as  they  are  represented  much  smaller 
here  than  to  the  south,  they  may  not  reach  that  river. 

May  25M.  Two  canoes  which  were  left  behind  yesterday, 
to  bring  on  the  game,  did  not  join  us  till  eight  o'clock  this 
morning,  when  we  set  out  with  the  towline,  the  use  of 
which  the  banks  permitted.     The  wind  was,  however,  ahead, 

*  An  anomalous  apetalous  chenopodiaceous  plant,  well  known  in  the  West  at 
greaiewood.     See  Nuttall,  Jour.  Phila.  Acad.,  I.,  p.  184. 


326 


TEAPOT  AND  OTHER  ISLANDS. 


siM 


the  current  strong,  particularly  round  the  points  against 
which  it  happened  to  set,  and  the  gullies  from  the  hills 
having  brought  down  quantities  of  stone,  these  projected 
into  the  river,  forming  barriers  for  40  or  50  feet  around, 
which  it  was  very  difficult  to  pass.  At  the  distance  of  2^ 
miles  we  passed  a  small  island  in  a  deep  bend  on  the  south, 
and  on  the  same  side  a  creek  3o  yards  wide,  but  with  no 
running  water.  About  a  mile  further  is  an  island  between 
two  and  three  miles  in  length,  separated  from  the  northern 
shore  by  a  narrow  channel,  in  which  is  a  sand-island,  a*:  the 
distance  of  half  a  mile  from  its  lower  extremity.  To  this 
large  island  we  gave  the  name  of  Teapot "  island;  two  miles 
above  which  is  an  island  a  mile  long,  situated  on  the  south. 
At  3^  miles  is  another  small  island,  and  one  mile  beyond 
it  a  second,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  on  the  north 
side.  In  the  middle  of  the  river,  two  miles  above  this,  is  an 
island  with  no  timber,  and  of  the  same  extent  as  this  last. 
The  country  on  each  side  is  high,  broken,  and  rocky;  the 
rock  being  either  a  soft  brown  sandstone,  covered  with  a 
thin  stratum  of  limestone,  or  else  a  hard  black  rug-  (/.  22g) 
ged  granite,  both  usually  in  horizontal  strata,  and  the 
sand-rock  overlaying  the  other.  Salts  and  quartz,  as  well 
as  some  coal  and  pumice-stone,  still  appear.  The  bars  of 
the  river  are  composed  principally  of  gravel;  the  river  low 
grounds  are  narrow,  and  afford  scarcely  any  timber ;  nor  is 
there  much  pine  on  the  hills.  The  buffalo  have  now  become 
scarce  ;  we  saw  a  polecat  [skunk]  this  evening,  which  was 
the  first  for  several  days ;  in  the  course  of  the  day  we  also 
saw  several  herds  of  the  big-horned  animals  {Ovis  montana\ 
among  the  steep  cliffs  on  the  north,  and  killed  several  of 
them."  At  the  distance  of  18  miles  we  camped  on  the  south. 

'*  This  name  does  not  appear  in  the  Summary  Statement,  instead  of  which  wi 
named  two  islands,  Ibex  and  Goodrich's,  before  we  reach  Windsor's  (now  Cow) 
creek.  It  is  "  Tea"  island  in  Lewis  E  7.  No  such  great  island  as  this  now 
exists  ;  but  there  are  four  or  more  strung  along  the  river  for  several  miles,  and  at 
one  of  them  is  the  shoal  now  called  PicoH's  or  Picott's  rapids  (below  Cow  isUnd 
and  Cow  creek). 

"  Lewis  E  4-6  gives  a  long  and  minute  description  of  the  animals,  and  Gass, 


WINDSORS  AND  TURTLE  CREEKS. 


327 


1  V! 

Zow) 
,  now 
ndat 
Mand 

}ass, 


Sunday,  May  26th.  We  proceeded  at  an  early  hour  by 
means  of  the  towiine,  using  our  oars  merely  in  crossing  the 
river,  to  take  advantage  of  the  best  banks.  There  are  now 
scarcely  any  low  grounds  on  the  river,  the  hills  being  high, 
and  in  many  places  pressing  on  both  sides  to  the  verge  of 
the  water.  The  black  rock  has  given  place  to  a  very  soft 
sandstone,  which  seems  to  be  washed  away  fast  by  the 
river,  and  being  thrown  into  the  river  renders  its  navigation 
more  difficult  than  it  was  yesterday.  Above  this  sandstone, 
and  toward  the  summits  of  the  hills,  a  hard  freestone  of  a 
yellowish-brown  color  shows  itself  in  several  strata  of 
unequal  thickness,  frequently  overlaid  or  incrusted  by  a  thin 
stratum  of  limestone,  which  seems  to  be  formed  of  concreted 
shells.  At  %yi  miles  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  a  creek  on 
the  north,  30  yards  wide,  with  some  running  water  and 
a  rocky  bed  ;  we  called  it  Windsor's  "  creek,  after  one  of 
the  party.  At  4^  miles  beyond  this  we  came  to  another 
[Turtle"]  creek  in  a  bend  to  the  north,  which  is  20  yards 
wide,  with  a  handsome  little  stream  of  water  ;  there  is,  how- 

p.  88,  makes  much  of  these  bighorns,  apparently  the  first  the  party  actually 
killed.  "  Some  of  the  party  killed  three  of  what  the  French  and  natives  call 
mountain  sheep ;  but  they  very  little  resemble  sheep,  except  in  the  head,  horns 
and  feet.  They  are  of  a  dun  colour  except  on  the  belly  and  round  the  rump, 
where  they  are  white.  The  horns  of  the  male  are  very  large  ;  those  of  the 
female  small.  Captain  Clarke  calls  them  the  Ibex,  and  says  they  resemble  that 
animal  more  than  any  other.  They  are  in  size  somewhat  larger  than  a  deer." 
May  3$th.  This  account  is  perfectly  diagnostic,  and  first  appeared  in  1807. 
Gass' editor  and  publisher,  David  M'Keehan,  having  a  copy  of  Goldsmith's 
Animated  Nature  at  hand,  quotes  that  miraculous  zo&logist's  description  of 
the  ibex,  and  rejects  it  as  inapplicable  to  the  bighorn  ;  then  he  proceeds  to  cite 
Goldsmith's  description  of  the  moufflon  or  musimon,  and  comes  to  the  conclu- 
sion, fortified  by  Gass'  verbal  accounts,  that  this  is  the  animal  which  our  bighorn 
is  like,  if  not  "  exactly  the  same."     In  which  conclusion  he  is  quite  right. 

'•  Now  Cow  creek,  near  the  mouth  of  which  is  Cow  island,  above  Picoll's 
rapids  and  below  Burdell's.  A  branch  of  Cow  creek  is  Bull  creek,  and  another 
is  called  Suction  creek,  perhaps  referring  to  the  calf.  But  where  is  Windsor's 
creek,  meanwhile? 

"  Nameless  in  text  and  codex,  but  charted  by  Clark  as  Turtle  creek,  from  find- 
ing here  the  turtles  which  are  presently  mentioned.  This  is  about  the  situation 
of  some  rapids  now  known  as  Budel's,  Berdel's,  Burdell's  or  Burdette's,  not 
specified  in  the  text,  owing  to  the  state  of  the  Missouri. 


328 


THE  ROCKY   MOUNTAINS  IN  VIEW. 


hi   . 


ever,  no  timber  on  either  side  of  the  river,  except  a  few 
pines  on  the  hills.  Here  we  saw,  for  the  first  time  since 
we  left  the  Mandans,  several  soft-shelled  turtles  [Trionj'x 
{Aspidonectes)  spini/er],  though  this  may  be  owing  rather 
to  the  season  of  the  year  than  to  any  scarcity  of  the  animal. 

It  was  here  (/.  2jo)  that,  after  ascending  the  highest 
summit  of  the  hills  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  Captain 
Lewis  first  caught  a  distant  view  of  the  Rock  mountains — 
the  object  of  all  our  hopes,  and  the  reward  of  all  our 
ambition.'*  On  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  at  no  great  dis- 
tance from  it,  the  mountains  followed  its  course.  Above 
these,  at  the  distance  of  50  miles  from  us,  an  irregular 
range  of  mountains  spread  from  west  to  northwest  from  his 
position.  To  the  north  of  these,  a  few  elevated  points,  the 
most  remarkable  of  which  bore  N.  65°  W.,  appeared  above 
the  horizon ;  and  as  the  sun  shone  on  the  snows  of  their 
summits,  he  obtained  a  clear  and  satisfactory  view  of  those 
mountains  which  close  on  the  Missouri  the  passage  to  the 
Pacific. 

At  4>4  :niles  beyond  this  [Turtle]  creek,  we  came  to  the 
upper  point  of  a  small  sand-island."    At  the  distance  of  five 

"  About  a  year  and  a  half  before  the  day  when  the  Rockies  were  ii'  A  sighted 
in  Colorado  by  Zebulon  M.  Pike,  on  the  isth  of  November,  1806.  "  This  day 
I  first  caught  sight  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  the  '  Great  Divide  '  between  the 
Eastern  and  Western  Oceans,"  is  attributed  to  Pike  by  a  flourishing  periodical 
now  published  in  Denver,  which  takes  this  expression  as  a  motto  for  a  stand- 
ing head.  Very  likely  Pike  said  something  to  that  effect,  somewhere  ;  what  he 
says  in  his  Journal,  orig.  ed.,  Philadelphia,  1810,  p.  163,  is  :  "  Gave  three  <-^(^rx 
to  the  Mexican  mountains.  .  .  Those  were  a  spur  of  the  grand  western  chain 
of  mountains,  which  divide  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  from  those  of  the  Atlantic 
oceans,"  etc.,  at  date  of  Saturday,  Nov.  15th,  1806.  Lewis  E  7  is  delightful 
here  :  "  While  I  viewed  these  mountains  I  felt  a  secret  pleasure  in  thus  finding 
myself  so  near  the  head  of  the  hitherto  conceived  boundless  Missouri  ;  but  when 
I  reflected  on  the  difficulties  which  this  snowey  barrier  would  most  probably 
throw  in  my  way  to  the  Pacific,  and  the  sufferings  and  hardships  of  myself  and 
party  in  them,  it  in  some  measure  counterballanced  the  joy  I  had  felt  in  the  first 
moments  in  which  I  gazed  on  them  ;  but  as  I  have  always  held  it  a  c.-ime  to 
anticipate  evils  I  will  believe  it  a  good  comfortable  road  untill  I  am  compelled 
to  believe  differently." 

"  About  the  position  of  that  now  called  Sturgeon  island  ;  so  named,  not  from 


ELK   RAPIDS. 


329 


miles,  between  high  bluffs,  we  passed  a  very  difficult  rapid, 
reaching  quite  across  the  river,  where  the  water  is  deep, 
the  channel  narrow,  and  gravel  obstructs  it  on  each  side. 
We  had  great  difficulty  in  ascending  it,  though  we  used 
both  the  rope  and  the  pole,  and  doubled  the  crews.  This 
is  the  most  considerable  rapid  [we  have  thus  far  found] 
on  the  Missouri,  and  in  fact  the  only  place  where  there 
is  a  sudden  descent.  As  we  were  laboring  over  the 
rapids,  a  female  elk  with  her  fawn  swam  down  through  the 
waves,  which  ran  very  high,  and  obtained  for  the  place  the 
name  of  Elk  Rapids."  Just  above  them  is  a  small  low 
ground  of  cottonwood  trees,  where,  at  22^  miles,  we  fixed 
our  camp,  and  were  joined  by  Captain  Lewis,  who  had 
been  on  the  hills  during  the  afternoon. 

The  country  has  now  become  desert  and  barren.  The 
appearances  of  coal,  burnt  earth,  pumice-stone,  salts,  and 
quartz  continue  as  yesterday;  but  there  is  no  timber  except 
the  thinly  scattered  pine  and  spruce  on  the  summits  of 
the  hills,  or  along  their  sides.  The  only  animals  we  have 
observed  are  the  elk,  the  bighorn,  and  the  hare  common 
in  this  country.  In  the  plain  where  we  lie  are  two  Indian 
(/).  3Jt)  cabins  [wickiups]  made  of  sticks,  and  during  the 
last  few  days  we  have  passed  several  others  in  the  points 
of  timber  on  the  river. 

Maj/  27///.  The  wind  was  so  high  that  we  did  not  start 
till  ten  o'clock,  and  even  then  were  obliged  to  use  the 
towline  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  The  river  has 
become  very  rapid,  with  a  very  perceptible  descent.     Its 


■rom 


any  ordinary  sturgeon,  for  none  such  is  found  in  the  Missouri,  but  from  the 
curious  shovel-headed  or  shovel-nosed  "sturgeon,  Scaphirhynchops  platyrhynchusy 
a  ti»h  I  have  taken  from  this  very  locality. 

'•  "  A  very  considerable  ripple  which  we  call  the  Elk  rappids,"  Lewis  En;  so 
charted  by  Clark,  between  his  Turtle  creek  and  Thompson's  (now  liirch)  creek. 
Some  iilentify  these  rapids  with  Burdell's,  near  Windsor's  (Cow)  creek  ;  others 
with  the  Dauphin  rapids,  which  are  near  Thompson's  (Birch)  creek.  But  Elk 
rapids  is  neither  of  these,  being  certain  shoals  much  below  Thompson's  or  Birch 
creek,  at  the  distance  above  Sturgeon  island  which  the  text  indicates,  and  now 
known  as  the  Lone  Pine  rapids. 


'il 


: 


4 


..;i 


ill  i 


11(1 


330 


DAUl'HIN   RAI'IUS. 


general  width  is  about  200  yards  ;  the  shoals  are  more  fre- 
quent, and  the  rocky  points  at  the  mouths  of  the  gullies 
more  troublesome  to  pass.  Great  quantities  of  stone  lie  in 
the  river  and  on  its  bank,  and  seem  to  have  fallen  down  as 
the  rain  washed  away  the  clay  and  sand  in  which  they  were 
imbedded.  The  water  is  bordered  by  high  rugged  blufTs, 
composed  of  irregular  but  horizontal  strata  of  yellow  and 
brown  or  black  clay,  brown  and  yellowish-white  sand,  soft 
yellowish-white  sandstone,  and  hard  dark  brown  freestone  ; 
also,  large  round  kidney-formed  irregular  separate  maFses 
of  a  hard  black  ironstone,  imbedded  in  the  clay  and  sand ; 
some  coal  or  carbonated  wood  also  makes  its  appearance  in 
the  cliffs,  as  do  its  usual  attendants,  the  pumice-stone  and 
burnt  earth.  The  salts  and  quartz  are  less  abundant,  and, 
generally  speaking,  the  country  is,  if  possible,  more  rug- 
ged and  barren  than  that  we  passed  yesterday ;  the  only 
growth  of  the  hills  being  a  few  pine,  spruce,  and  dwarf  cedar, 
interspersed  with  an  occasional  contrast,  once  in  the  course 
of  some  miles,  of  several  acres  of  level  ground,  which 
supply  a  scanty  subsistence  for  a  few  little  cottonwoods. 

Soon  after  setting  out  we  passed  a  small  untimbered 
island  on  the  south  ;  at  about  seven  miles  we  reached  a 
considerable  bend  which  the  river  makes  toward  the  south- 
east, and  in  the  evening,  after  making  12^  miles,  camped 
on  the  south  near  two  dead  cottonwoods,  the  only  timber 
for  fuel  which  we  could  discover  in  the  neighborhood. 

Afny  28///.  The  weather  was  dark  and  cloudy ;  the  air 
smoky,  and  there  fell  a  few  drops  of  rain.  At  ten  o'clock 
(/.  Jjj)  we  had  again  a  slight  sprinkling  of  rain,  attended 
with  distant  thunder,  which  is  the  first  we  have  heard  since 
leaving  the  Mandans.  We  employed  the  towline  generally, 
with  the  addition  of  the  pole  at  the  ripples  and  rocky 
points,  which  we  find  more  numerous  and  troublesome 
than  those  we  passed  yesterday.  The  water  is  very  rapid 
round  these  points,"  and  we  are  sometimes  obliged  to  steer 

"  One  of  these  points  is  that  now  called  Dauphin  rapids,  about  14  miles 
above  Lone  Pine  rapids. 


>    ! 


s 


RUNNING  THE   RAI'IOS— THOMPSON'S  CREEK. 


331 


lies 


the  canoes  through  the  points  of  sharp  rocks  rising  a  few 
inches  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  so  near  to  each 
other  that  if  our  ropes  give  way  the  force  of  the  current 
would  drive  the  side  of  the  canoe  against  the  rocks,  and 
must  inevitably  upset  the  canoe  or  dash  it  to  pieces. 
These  cords  are  very  slender,  being  almost  all  made  of 
elk-skin,  now  much  worn  and  rotted  by  exposure  to  the 
weather.  Several  times  they  gave  way,  but  fortunately 
always  in  places  where  there  was  room  for  the  canoe  to 
turn  without  striking  the  rocks ;  yet  with  all  our  precau- 
tions it  was  with  infinite  risk  and  labor  that  we  passed 
these  points.  An  Indian  pole  for  building  floated  down 
the  river ;  it  was  worn  at  one  end  as  if  dragged  along 
the  ground  in  traveling ;  several  other  articles  were  also 
brought  down  by  the  current,  which  indicates  that  the 
Indians  are  probably  at  no  great  distance  above  us  ;  judg- 
ing from  a  football,  which  resembles  those  used  by  the 
Minnetarees  near  the  Mandans,  we  conjecture  that  they 
must  be  a  band  of  the  Minnetarees  of  Fort  de  Prairie. 

The  appearance  of  the  river  and  the  surrounding  country 
continued  as  usual,  till  toward  evening,  at  about  15  miles, 
we  reached  a  large  creek  on  the  north,  35  yards  wide,  dis- 
charging some  water,  and  named  after  one  of  our  men 
Thompson's  "  creek.  Here  the  country  assumed  a  totally 
different  aspect ;  the  hills  retired  on  both  sides  from  the 
river,  which  now  spreads  to  more  than  three  times 
its  former  size,  and  is  filled  with  a  number  of  small, 
handsome  islands,  covered  with  cottonwood.  The  low 
grounds  or  the  river  are  again  wide,  fertile,  and  enriched 
with  trees ;  those  on  the  north  are  particularly  wide, 
the  hills  being  comparatively  low,  and  {p.  2jj)  opening 
into  three  large  valleys,  which  extend  for  a  considerable 
distance  toward  the  north.     These  appearances  of  vegeta- 

"  Birch  creek  of  various  modem  maps,  as  the  G.  L.  O.  map  of  1879,  but  not 
of  Twining's,  which  names  a  Birch  creek  above  Judith's  river,  and  opposite 
Arrow  river,  nor  of  Ludlow's,  which  locates  Birch  creek  Lelow  Judith's  river, 
about  opposite  Dog  or  Bull  creek.  Clark  charts  this  stream  as  "  Thomson's 
Cr."  ;  but  the  soldier's  name  was  John  B.  Thompson,  "  with  a. p." 


<7f,ii 


332        BULL  CRELK— A   UUIKALO  CilAKliES  THE  CA.MI', 


i.' 


:i 


• 


■i:      . 


(ion  are  delightful  after  the  dreary  hilli  over  which  we 
have  passed,  and  we  have  now  to  congratulate  ourselves  at 
having  escaped  from  the  last  ridges  of  thr  Black  moun. 
tains.  On  leaving  Thompson's  creek  we  passed  two  small 
islands,  and  at  23  miles'  [totslj  distance  camped  among 
some  timber  on  the  north,  opposite  a  small  creek,  which 
we  named  Bull "  creek.  The  bighorn  is  in  great  quanti- 
ties, and  must  bring  forth  their  young  at  a  very  early 
season,  as  they  are  now  half-grown.  One  of  the  party  saw 
a  large  bear  also,  but  being  at  a  distance  from  the  river, 
and  having  no  timber  to  conceal  himself,  he  would  not 
venture  to  fire. 

May  29M.  Last  night  we  were  alarmed  by  a  new  sort 
of  enemy.  A  buffalo  swam  over  from  the  opposite  side 
to  the  spot  where  lay  one  of  our  canoes,  over  which  he 
clambered  to  the  shore ;  then  taking  fright  he  ran  full 
speed  up  the  bank  toward  our  fires,  and  passed  within  18 
inches  of  the  heads  of  some  of  the  men,  before  the  sentinel 
could  niake  him  change  his  course.  Still  more  alarmed,  he 
ran  down  between  four  fires  and  within  a  few  inches  of 
the  heads  of  the  second  row  of  the  men,  and  would  have 
broken  into  our  lodge  if  the  barking  of  the  dog  had  not 
stopped  him.  He  suddenly  turned  to  the  right,  and  was 
out  o^  sight  in  a  moment,  leaving  us  all  in  confusion,  every- 
one seizing  his  rifle  and  inquiring  the  cause  of  the  alarm. 
On  learning  what  had  happened,  we  had  to  rejoice  at 
suffering  no  more  injury  than  the  damage  to  some  guns 
which  were  in  the  canoe  which  the  buffalo  crossed. 

In  the  morning  early  we  left  our  camp,  and  proceeded  as 
usual  by  the  cord.  We  passed  an  island  and  two  sand-bars, 
and  at  the  distance  of  2^  miles  came  to  a  handsome  river 
which  discharges  on  the  south,  and  which  we  ascended  to 

'*  From  the  incident  narrated  May  a^th  ;  charted,  nameless,  by  Clark  ;  last 
creek  S.  below  Judith's  river  ;  now  called  Dog  creek,  perhaps  from  some  mis- 
taking of  L.  and  C.'s  "  Littledog  "  creek  of  May  a4th,  now  left  far  behind. 
This  stream  is  only  two  or  three  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Judith,  and  there- 
fore cannot  be  that  Dog  river  which  Twining  charts  ten  or  twelve  miles  lower 
down.     Some  cartographer  might  win  fame  by  inscribing  "  Bulldog  "  creek. 


MISS  JULIA   HANCOCKS  RIVER. 


iss 


the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half.  We  called  it  Judith's'* 
river.  It  rises  in  the  Rock  mountains  (/.  iJ4),  in  about  the 
same  place  with  the  Muscleshell,  and  near  the  Yellowstone. 
Its  entrance  is  oo  yards  wide  from  one  bank  to  the  other, 
the  water  occupying  about  75  yards,  and  in  greater  quan> 
tity  than  that  of  the  Muscleshell  river;  though  more  rapid, 
it  is  equally  navigable,  there  being  no  stones  or  rocks  in 
the  bed,  which  is  composed  entirely  of  gravel  and  mud, 
with  some  sand.  The  water  is  clearer  than  any  which  we 
have  yet  seen  ;  and  the  low  grounds,  as  far  as  we  could  dis* 
cern,  are  wider  and  more  woody  than  those  of  the  Missouri. 
Along  its  banks  we  observed  some  box-elder  intermixed 
with  Cottonwood  and  willow  ;  the  undergrowth  consisting 
of  rosebushes,  honeysuckles,  and  a  little  red.willow.  There 
was  a  great  abundance  of  the  argali  or  big-horned  animal 


;r 

to 


'""Cap.  C.  who  ucended  this  R.  much  hiyher  than  I  did  has  called  it 
Juditth's  River,"  Lewis  E  17.  The  lady  thus  complimented  was  Miss  Julia 
Hancock,  of  Fincastle,  Va.,  familiarly  called  Judie  or  Judy  by  her  family  and 
intimate  friends.  Among  the  latter  was  Captain  Clark,  who  perhaps  had  never 
heard  her  called  Julia,  and  naturally  supposed  her  name  to  be  Judith.  Miss 
Julia  Hancock  was  the  fourth  child  and  third  daughter  of  George  Hancock  and 
Peggy  Strother,  bom  Monday,  Nov.  21st,  1791  ;  married  Captain  Clark,  at  Fin- 
cattle,  Jan.  5th,  1808  :  died  at  Fotheringay,  June  27th,  1820.  They  had  five  chil- 
dren, the  eldest  of  whom  was  Meriwether  Lewis  Clark,  b.  St.  Louis,  Jan.  loth, 
i8og.  All  are  dead  ;  for  the  only  survivir>g  son  of  G'^nt-al  and  Governor  Wil- 
liam Clark  is  issue  of  a  second  marriage.  This  is  Jefferson  K.  Clark,  now  resid- 
ing at  3121  Locust  St.,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

This  river  was  actually  first  called  "  Bighorn  "  by  Lewis,  from  the  abundance 
of  these  animals  (see  May  28th).  The  sentence  I  have  cited  above  is  partly 
in  Lewis'  hand,  partly  in  Clark's,  interlined  and  over  a  careful  erasure  ;  and  so 
near  was  Miss  Julia  to  losing  her  fine  river  that  its  name  still  stands  "  Bighorn," 
bis^  in  the  codex,  not  deleted,  though  with  "Judith  "  interlined  in  Clark's  hand. 
It  does  not  rise  so  far  west  as  the  sources  of  the  Musselshell,  and  far  north  of 
those  of  the  Yellowstone.  The  Judith  heads  in  the  Little  Belt  and  Big  Snowy 
mountains  (which  are  separated  by  Judith  Gap),  and  runs  on  an  average  course  due 
north  to  the  Missouri,  passing  west  of  the  Judith  and  both  Moccasin  mountains. 
It  ih  by  far  the  largest  southern  tributary  of  the  Missouri  since  the  Musselshell. 
Less  than  a  mile  above  its  mouth  was  old  Camp  Cook,  or  Cooke,  on  the  south  side 
of  the  Missouri,  where  some  of  the  adobe  walls  were  visible  when  I  passed  in  1874. 
Close  by  was  also  built  Fort  Claggett,  a  small  Indian  trading-post,  of  two  log- 
houses  ;  and  this  locality  is  now  the  site  of  the  River  Crow  Agency. 


334 


RKCKNT   INDIAN  CAMP-FIRES— ASH   RAPIDS. 


ir  I  '  f 


'■» 


in  the  high  country  through  which  it  [Juditii's  river]  passes, 
and  a  great  number  of  beaver  in  its  waters. 

Just  above  the  entrance  of  it  we  saw  the  fires  of  126 
lodges,  which  appeared  to  have  been  deserted  about  12 
or  15  days  ;  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  Missouri,  a  large 
camp,  apparently  made  by  the  same  nation.  On  examin- 
ing some  moccasins  which  we  found  here,  our  Indian 
woman  said  that  they  did  not  belong  to  her  own  nation, 
the  Snake  Indians,  but  she  thought  that  they  indicated 
a  tribe  on  this  side  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  to  the 
north  of  the  Missouri ;  indeed  it  is  probable  that  these  are 
the  Minnetarees  of  Fort  de  Prairie.  At  the  distance  of 
6y2  miles  the  hills  again  approach  the  brink  of  the  river, 
and  the  stones  and  rocks  washed  down  from  them  form 
a  very  bad  rapid,  with  rocks  and  ripples  more  numerous 
and  difficult  than  those  we  passed  on  the  27th  and  28th. 
Here  the  same  scene  was  renewed,  and  we  had  again  to 
struggle  and  labor  to  preserve  our  small  craft  from  being 
lost.  Near  this  spot  are  a  few  trees  of  the  ash,  the  firs.t  we 
have  seen  for  a  great  distance,  and  from  which  we  named 
the  place  Ash  Rapids."  On  these  hills  there  is  but  little 
timber,  but  the  salts,  coal,  and  other  mineral  appearances 
continue. 

On  the  north  we  (/.  2j^)  passed  a  precipice  about  120 
feet  high,  under  which  lay  scattered  the  fragments  of  at 
least  100  carcasses  of  buffaloes,  although  the  water  which 
had  washed  away  the  lower  part  of  the  hill  must  have  car- 
ried off  many  of  the  dead.  These  buffaloes  had  been 
chased  down  the  precipice  in  a  way  very  common  on  the 
Missouri,  by  which  vast  herds  are  destroyed  in  a  moment. 
The  mode  of  hunting  is  to  select  one  of  the  most  active  and 
fleet  young  men,  who  is  disguised  by  a  buffalo-skin  round 
his  body ;   the  skin  of  the  head  with  the  ears  and   horns 

"  This  is  a  bad  place  at  any  state  of  the  river.  It  is  now  known  as  Drowned 
Man's  rapids,  from  an  accident  which  the  name  ex|iresses.  It  is  marked  on 
Clark's  map,  just  above  a  nameless  creek,  from  the  north,  noticed  neither  in  the 
text  nor  the  codex.     This  creek  has  since  been  called  Norris. 


f 


I.VWAN-  BATTUE  OF  BUFFALO_SLAt,aHTER  R.VER.     335 

.'hebuSalo  ""xh"  'h"  """.  T'  '"  '"'"  '  ->■  ^»  ">  ""aVe 
ine  Duttalo.     Thus  dressed,  he  fixes  liims,.lf  J*  . 

distance  be.„ee„  a  herd  l,  buffi'":,;', rorr';;!"' 
prec,p,c=s,  vvhich  sometimes  extend  for  so^e  mi  e,      u' 

advancetrd  ^..^bSe^-T'bet'L'.^^r'rr  ^l" 
alann,   and    findi.icj    the   hunter/K  t^     1        ^    ''''*  *^"= 

before  the.  tin  the  vvhc:rare';.epu;e7aL^  tT    T' 
-  stre^vn  with    their  dead    bodies  ^slmLtiil  T 

perilous  seduction    <-h»  t   ^-  ."  .     ^^'^et'nies,  in   this 

under  foo     by  X'    aoid^^""  "   '"""''   '''''''  ^''^^^-^ 
■  uoi   uy  tne  rapid  movements  of  Hi/.  k,.*T^i 

missing  his  footing  in  the  cliff  is  .,„,f^  buffaloes,  or 

by  the  falling  herd     Ti,    i  T        ^  ''  ''°"'"  "'=  P'ecipico 

as  they  w Lh     fl^'  ,1'"  '"^'""f  ""en  select  as  mnch  men, 

creates^"'mo;t";re2rsret"h''°"The"  T  ^t'"'  '"' 
been  feasting  on  these  caiare-.e^':;;"'^/ ;:f"  """ 

oftmL   ff  """  "'  "■"-'° 'or  dinned  at  the  distance 
y  rZ  :  de  ^  r.rfall"'"'"''^  '  ""'^  "-"""'^  "-   - 

."ary  Statement.  14  Ji  miiesa.K.^e  Jud  ,hl  rC  aTd"'.'  '"k'"'''  '''''■  ''"'■^"- 
above  the  Stone  Walls.  But  by  lU  !•  "  n  ',  .^,''  ''"'"«'^' '"  ''"  ^'ark's  map 
tableof  distances,  Anowriver  isonlv  7^  "'^''"  '  '""P^'  =""1  ''>'  ^^--'ene'i 

also,  that  Clark's  map  cLrt  T  e'r^r  H '"  ^p°:^  ^"'''''^■^-  ^--• 
-W  Slighter  Hve.  and  thus  aC.  ^^  ^^ o.  i;^  r  ^ ^ 


i      I 


ii 


ii 


t  "I 


\'- 


i 


I. 


ij* 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS,   ETC. 


timber.  Soon  after  landing  it  began  to  blow  and  rain,  and 
as  there  was  no  prospect  of  getting  wood  for  fuel  farther  on, 
we  fixed  our  camp  on  the  north,  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
above  Slaughter  river.  After  the  labors  of  the  day,  we  gave 
each  man  a  dram,  and  such  was  the  effect  of  long  abstinence 
from  spirituous  liquors  that,  from  the  small  quantity  of  half 
a  gill  of  rum,  several  of  the  men  were  considerably  affected, 
and  all  very  much  exhilarated.  Our  game  to-day  consisted 
of  an  elk  and  two  beaver. 

May  loth.  The  rain  which  commenced  last  evening  con- 
tinued with  little  intermission  till  eleven  this  morning, 
when  the  high  wind  which  accompanied  it  having  abated, 
we  set  out.  More  rain  has  now  fallen  than  we  have  had 
since  the  ist  of  September  last,  and  many  circumstances 
indicate  our  approach  to  a  climate  differing  considerably 
from  that  of  the  country  through  which  we  have  been  pass- 
ing. The  air  of  the  open  country  is  astonishingly  dry  and 
pure.  Observing  that  the  case  of  our  sextant,  though  per- 
fectly seasoned,  shrank  and  the  joints  opened,  we  tried 
several  experiments,  by  which  it  appeared  that  a  table- 
spoonful  of  water,  exposed  in  a  saucer  to  the  air,  would 
evaporate  in  36  hours,  when  the  mercury  did  not  stand 
higher  than  the  temperate  point  [55*  F.]  at  the  greatest  heat 
of  the  day.  The  river,  notwithstanding  the  rain,  is  much 
clearer  than  it  was  a  few  days  past ;  but  we  advance  with 
great  labor  and  difficulty,  the  rapid  current,  the  ripples, 
and  rocky  points  rendering  navigation  more  embarrassing 
than  even  that  of  yesterday ;  in  addition  to  which,  the 
banks  are  so  slippery  after  the  rain,  that  the  men  who 
draw  the  canoes  can  scarcely  walk,  and  the  earth  and  stone, 
constantly  falling  down  the  high  blufTs,  make  it  dangerous 
to  pass  under  them  ;  still,  however,  we  are  obliged  to  make 
use  of  the  cord,  as  the  wind  is  strong  ahead,  the  current  too 
rapid  for  oars,  and  too  deep  for  the  (/.  2jf)  pole.    In  this  way 

maps.  The  Big  Horn  of  Clark's  map  remains  unaccounted  for  ;  there  is  no 
sign  of  it  in  car  text,  and  the  only  river  called  Big  Horn  in  Lewis  E  is  Judith's 
river,  as  we  have  seen.     Here,  however,  I  accept  the  usual  identification. 


A  LARGE   BAND  OF  INDIANS  AHEAD. 


337 


no 


we  passed,  at  a  distance  of  5>^  miles,  a  small  rivulet  in  a 
bend  on  the  north ;  two  miles  further,  an  island  on  the  same 
side ;  half  a  mile  beyond  which  we  came  to  a  grove  of  trees, 
at  the  entrance  of  a  run  in  abend  to  the  south,  and  camped 
for  the  night  on  the  northern  shore.  The  eight  miles  which 
we  made  to-day  cost  us  much  trouble.  The  air  was  cold 
and  rendered  more  disagreeable  by  the  rain,  which  fell  in 
several  slight  showers  in  the  course  of  the  day;  our  cords 
broke  several  times,  but  fortunately  without  injury  to  the 
boats. 

On  ascending  the  hills  near  the  river,  one  of  the  party 
found  that  there  was  snow  mixed  with  the  rain  on  ti.e 
heights.  A  little  back  of  these  the  country  becomes  per- 
fectly level  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  There  is  now  no 
timber  on  the  hills,  and  only  a  few  scattering  cottonwood, 
ash,  box-elder,  and  willows  along  the  water.  In  the  course 
of  the  day  we  passed  several  camps  of  Indians,  the  most 
recent  of  which  seemed  to  have  been  evacuated  about  five 
weeks  since.  From  the  several  apparent  dates  we  supposed 
that  they  were  made  by  a  band  of  about  loo  lodges,  who 
were  traveling  slowly  up  the  river.  Although  no  parts  of  the 
Missouri,  from  the  [village  of  the]  Minnetarees  to  this 
place,  exhibit  signs  of  permanent  settlements,  yet  none 
seem  exempt  from  the  transient  visits  of  hunting-parties. 
We  know  that  the  Minnetarees  of  the  Missouri  extend 
their  excursions  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  as  high  as 
the  Yellowstone ;  and  the  Assiniboins  visit  the  northern 
side,  most  probably  as  high  as  Porcupine  [Poplar]  river. 
Ail  the  lodges  between  that  place  and  the  Rocky  mountains 
we  supposed  to  belong  to  the  Minnetarees  of  Fort  de  Prai- 
rie, who  live  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Saskaskawan. 

May  list.  We  proceeded  in  the  two  periogues,  leaving 
the  canoes  to  bring  on  the  meat  of  two  buffaloes  killed  last 
evening.  Soon  after  we  set  off  it  began  to  rain  ;  and  though 
it  ceased  at  noon,  the  weather  continued  cloudy  during  the 
rest  of  the  day.  The  obstructions  of  yesterday  continue, 
and  fatigue  the  men  excessively.    The  banks  are  so  slip- 


urn  I 

'■MI 


'.I 


H 


:  \ 


'iL    I 


338 


THE  NATURAL  STONE   WALLS. 


pery  {p.  2j8)  in  some  places,  and  the  mud  is  so  adliesive,  that 
they  are  unable  to  wear  their  moccasins;  one-fourth  of  the 
time  they  are  obliged  to  be  up  to  their  armpits  in  the  cold 
water,  and  sometimes  they  walk  for  several  yards  over  the 
sliarp  fragments  of  rocks  which  have  luUen  from  the  hills. 
All  this,  added  to  the  burden  of  dragging  the  heavy  canoes, 
is  very  painful ;  yet  the  men  bear  it  with  great  patience  and 
good  humor.  Once  the  rope  of  one  of  the  periogues,  the 
only  one  we  had  made  of  hemp,  broke  short,  and  the  peri- 
ogue  s\vu"g  and  just  touched  a  point  of  rock,  which  almost 
overset  her. 

At  nine  miles  we  came  to  a  high  wall"  of  black  rock  rising 
from  the  water's  edge  on  the  south,  above  the  clifTs  of  the 
river;  this  continued  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  was 
succeeded  by  a  high  open  plain,  till  three  miles  further  a 
second  wall,  200  feet  high,  rose  on  the  same  side.  Three 
miles  further  a  wall  of  the  same  kind,  about  200  feet  high 
and  twelve  in  thickness,  appeared  to  the  north. 

These  hills  and  river-cliffs  exhibit  a  most  extraordinary 
and  romantic  appearance.  They  rise  in  most  places  nearly 
perpendicular  from  the  water,  to  the  height  of  between  200 
and  300  feet,  and  are  formed  of  very  white  sandstone,  so 
soft  as  to  yield  readily  to  the  impression  of  water,  in  the 
upper  part  of  which  lie  imbedded  two  or  three  thin  hori- 
zontal stratrt  of  white  freestone,  insensible  to  the  rain  ;  on 
the  top  is  a  dark  rich  loam,  which  forms  a  gradually  ascend- 
ing plain,  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  in  extent,  when 
the  hills  again  rise  abruptly  to  the  height  of  about  300  feet 

*'  The  cafton  formation  about  to  be  described  is  called  in  the  Summary  State- 
ment the  Natural  Walls,  and  is  charted  by  Clark  as  the  Stone  Walls.  I  cannot 
understand  the  position  assigned  to  Slaughter  river  on  his  map,  where  it  is  brought 
in  opposite  the  upper  end  of  the  Stone  Walls.  I  suspect  that  Slaughter  river  of 
the  map  is  net  the  Slaughter  river  of  the  text,  and  that  the  latter  is  the  Wig  Horn 
river  of  the  map.  Several  special  configurations  of  this  cai^on  have  received  late 
names,  as  Hole  in  the  Wall,  Cathedral  Rock,  and  Citadel  Rock.  Clark's  map 
charts  a  certain  "Crevice  Cr."  from  the  south  or  west,  between  Slaughter  and 
Stone  Wall  river  ;  but  the  text  does  not  notice  any  such  stream.  See  last  and 
next  notes. 


ARCHITECTURAL  EFFECTS  OF  THIS  CA550N. 


339 


more.  In  trickling  down  the  cliffs,  the  water  has  worn  the 
soft  sandstone  into  a  thousand  grotesque  figures,  among 
which,  with  a  little  fancy,  may  be  discerned  elegant  ranges 
of  freestone  buildings,  with  columns  variously  sculptured, 
and  supporting  long  and  elegant  galleries,  while  the  para- 
pets are  adorned  with  statuary.  On  a  nearer  approach  they 
represent  every  form  of  elegant  ruins — columns,  some  with 
pedestals  and  capitals  entire,  others  mutilated  and  pros- 
trate, and  some  rising  pyramidally  over  each  (/.  2jg)  other 
till  they  terminate  in  a  sharp  point.  These  are  varied  by 
niches,  alcoves,  and  the  customary  appearances  of  desolated 
magnificence.  The  illusion  is  increased  by  the  number  of 
martins  {Petrochelidon  lunifrotts,  the  cliff-swallow],  which 
have  built  their  globular  nests  in  the  niches,  and  hover  over 
these  columns,  as  in  our  country  they  are  accustomed  to 
frequent  large  stone  structures.  As  we  advance  there  seems 
no  end  to  the  visionary  enchantment  which  surrounds  us. 

In  the  midst  of  this  fantastic  scenery  are  vast  ranges  of 
walls,  which  seem  the  productions  of  art,  so  regular  is  the 
workmanship.  They  rise  perpendicularly  from  the  river, 
sometimes  to  the  height  of  loo  feet,  varying  in  thickness 
from  one  to  twelve  feet,  being  as  broad  at  the  top  as  below. 
The  stones  of  which  they  are  formed  are  black,  thick, 
durable,  and  composed  of  a  large  portion  of  earth,  inter- 
mixed and  cemented  with  a  small  quantity  of  sand,  and  a 
considerable  proportion  of  talk  [talc]  or  quartz.  These 
stones  are  almost  invariably  regular  parallelepipeds  of 
unequal  sizes  in  the  wall,  but  equally  deep  and  laid  regu- 
larly in  ranges  over  each  other  like  bricks,  each  breaking 
and  covering  the  interstice  of  the  two  on  which  it  rests ; 
but  though  the  perpendicular  interstice  be  destroyed,  the 
horizontal  one  extends  entirely  through  the  whole  work. 
The  stones  are  proportioned  to  the  thickness  of  the  wall 
in  which  they  are  employed,  being  largest  in  the  thickest 
walls.  The  thinner  walls  are  composed  of  a  single  depth  of 
the  parallelepiped,  while  the  thicker  ones  consist  of  two  or 
more  depths.     These  walls  pass  the  river  at  several  places, 


'i\ 


i 


"ii 


h 


J- 


1 


H 


340 


END  OF  THE  CANON  FORMATION. 


Ill       I 


rising  from  the  water's  edge  much  above  the  sandstone 
bluffs,  which  they  seem  to  penetrate ;  thence  they  cross, 
in  a  straight  line  on  either  side  of  the  river,  the  plains 
over  which  they  tower  to  the  height  of  from  10  to  70 
feet,  until  they  lose  themselves  in  the  second  range  of 
hills.  Sometimes  they  run  parallel  in  several  ranges  near 
each  other,  sometimes  intersect  each  other  at  right  angles, 
and  have  the  appearance  of  walls  of  ancient  houses  or 
garc'  ns. 

(/.  2^0)  The  face  of  some  of  these  river-hills  is  composed 
of  very  excellent  freestone,  of  a  light  yellowish-brown 
color.  Among  the  cliiTs  we  found  a  species  of  pine  which 
we  had  not  yet  seen,  differing  from  the  Virginia  pitch  pine 
in  having  a  shorter  leaf,  and  a  longer  and  more  pointed 
cone.  The  coal  appears  only  in  small  quantities,  as  do  the 
burnt  earth  and  pumice-stone ;  the  mineral  salts  have 
abated.  Among  the  animals  are  a  great  number  of  big- 
horn, a  few  buffalo  and  elk,  and  some  mule-deer,  but  none 
of  the  common  deer  nor  any  antelopes.  We  saw,  but  could 
not  procure,  a  beautiful  [cross-]  fox,  of  a  color  varied  with 
orange,  yellow,  white,  and  black,  rather  smaller  than  the 
common  fox  of  this  country,  and  about  the  same  size  as 
the  red  fox  of  the  United  States. 

The  river  to-day  has  been  from  about  150  to  250  yards 
wide,  with  but  little  timber.  At  the  distance  oi  2Y2  miles 
from  the  last  stone  wall  is  a  stream  "  on  the  north  side,  28 
yards  in  width,  and  with  some  running  water.  We  camped 
just  above  its  mouth,  having  made  18  miles. 

Saturday,  June  u/,  1805.  The  weather  was  cloudy  with 
a  few  drops  of  rain.  As  we  proceeded,  by  the  aid  of  our 
cord,  we  found  the  river-cliffs  and  bluffs  not  so  high  as 
yesterday,  and  the  country  more  level.  The  timber  is  in 
greater  abundance  on  the  river,  though  there  is  no  wood 

**  Not  named  in  the  text  or  codex  ;  but  in  the  Summary  Statement  given  as 
"  Stonewall  creek,  above  the  Natural  Walls,"  26  miles  from  Slaughter  creek, 
and  charted  by  Clark  as  "  Stone  Wall  Cr."  See  next  date.  This  stream  will  be 
found  as  Key  or  Key's  creek  on  some  maps,  and  as  Eagle  creek  on  better  ones. 


i^  I 


^^jS 


BEAR'S  PAW   MOUNTAINS  IN  VIEW  3^, 

-ater  still  clearer  anTrocty  0!^'^  T''  ^"'^'^'  »^« 
we  met  yesterday,  thou^  tho-     ^'".-  "  ^'''"  *''«" 

-e-  equally  diffi^JuIt     o  pa  's      G       \"l  "'  ^"''^""*^'- 
such  plenty  as  below  •  aH  tW         T  ''  ^^  "°  '"^^"s  '" 
''orn  and  a  mule-Ze'r      h       k""^  °^'^'"^^  ^^"-^  °^'e  big. 
^-ntity  of  bu^alo'^:;,,;'^^^  T  "^^   '"   '' "   P'^'^ ' 
eight  miles  from  th;nvI;of/u^  ""'"  '""^^  ^*-^^t 
the  wind  was  ahead  TdT'eT\   ^^^^'thstanding 
the  distance  of  23  miles      A.        A^^'"^  '^'^  ^^"°«  along 
to  a  small  island,  opposite  a  bend^/f,'  '^- ^  '"''"'  ''''  "'"^ 
-t  2>i  miles,  to  the  upper  pont  o  ''"f.'' '°  ^'^^  "^^^'^  '• 

north  ;  at  five  miles  to  annfh  •  ,  ^  ""^"  '^^^"^  °"  the 
and  opposite  a  bluff  In  7h.  '  '"''  °"  ^''^  «°"th  side 
an  island  on  the  south  a  secon^K'''  '""^  '"'"'"'  ^'^  P^^^^d 
and  reached  near  a  hil  bluf^^  onTr'  ''  °"  ^''^  "-^''. 
which  we  camped  "       ^  °"  ^'^^  ""''th  a  third,  on 

pear,  both  of  which  ar^  now  !  K,'  t  '""'"  ""^  P'-'^'^'>' 

the  river-hills,  which  are "ow"  than'u  T  *'^  ""^^  °^ 
delightful  view  of  the  rich  Tertilenl  ""''  ^"  ^"^^^^^^  a 
many  places  extending  from 'then  ^  rL"'  °"  ^""'^  ''^'^' ^^ 
back.     In  these  plains  uHee^  "'"'  '°  "  ^'"^^^  distance 

pure  sand,  which  rrdrivenl"""'/^' '^^^^  ^^"'^"^  ^^^ 
west  winds  and  there  deposi  ed  TheT""  '^  ''''  ^^^h- 
some  distance  from  the  river 'fh  ^  ^'"' ^''""^''^  ^^^"-t'le 
the  surface  of  the  earth  is  verv  ..  T'  '''  ''^"^^'  ^^'^ere 
pebbles,  which   appear  to   be  '^  "^  "'""'""'^  "'^'^  ^'"^" 

S"dy.  N..  8«  „,;fc,  .,,„,„  cii.ll  1°"!.        ,     ""'  "»»•''«  l»i»S  11.0  I  ilifc 
P"..J  .o.d.y,  «ve  ,„i,„  Wo.  X!'*'''  »"  "  '»'"  M"'.-.  .■-I    TO  "I: 


M» 


hic;hw()()I)  mountains  in  vikw. 


^      I 


eight  or  ten  miles,  bearing  north  from  our  camp  of  last  even- 
ing ;  and  this  morning  a  range  of  high  mountains  [High- 
wood]  bearing  S.VV.  from  us,  and  apparently  running  to  the 
westward,  is  seen  at  a  great  distance,  covered  with  snow. 
In  the  evening  we  had  a  little  more  rain. 

yniii'  2d.  Tlie  wind  blew  violently  last  night  and  a  slight 
shower  of  rain  fell,  but  this  morning  was  fair.  We  set  out 
at  an  early  hour,  and  although  the  wind  was  ahead,  by  means 
of  the  cord  went  on  much  better  than  for  the  last  two  days, 
as  the  banks  were  well  calculated  for  towing.  The  current 
of  the  river  is  strong,  but  regular ;  its  timber  increases  in 
quantity,  the  low  grounds  become  more  level  and  extensive, 
and  the  bluffs  on  the  river  are  lower  than  usual.  In  the 
course  of  the  day  we  had  a  small  shower  of  rain,  which  lasted 
(/.  .?^.?)  a  few  minutes  only. 

As  game  is  veryabundant,  we  think  it  necessary  to  begin  a 
collection  of  hides,  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  leathern  boat, 
which  we  intend  constructing  shortly.  The  hunters,  who 
were  oi't  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  brought  in  six  elk, 
two  buffalo,  two  mule-deer,  and  a  bear.  This  last  animal 
nearly  cost  us  the  lives  of  two  of  our  hunters,  who  were 
together  when  he  attacked  them  ;  one  of  them  narrowly 
escaped  being  caught ;  the  other,  after  running  a  consider- 
able distance,  concealed  himself  in  some  thick  bushes,  and 
while  the  bear  was  in  quick  pursuit  of  his  hiding-place,  his 
companion  came  up,  and  fortunately  shot  the  animal  through 
the  head. 

At  6^  miles  we  reached  an  island  on  the  northern  side ; 
I  %  miles  thence  is  a  timbered  low  ground  on  the  south  ;  in 
the  next  2^  miles  we  passed  three  small  islands,  and  came 
to  a  dark  bluff  on  the  south  ;  within  the  following  mile  are 
two  small  islands  on  the  same  side.  At  3^  miles  we  reached 
the  lower  part  of  a  much  larger  island  near  a  northern  point ; 
as  \<Q.  coasted  along  its  side,  within  two  miles  we  passed  a 
smaller  island,  and  half  a  mile  above  reached  the  head  of 
another.  All  these  islands  are  small,  and  most  of  them  con- 
tain some  timber.     Three-quarters  of  a  mile  beyond  the  last, 


i^ 


A   PROHLEM    IN  GLOGRAI'IIY. 


343 


ic; 
in 

[imc 
arc 

Died 

{nt; 

Id  a 
of 
ton- 
last, 


and  at  the  distance  of  i8  miles  from  our  camp,  we  came-to 
for  the  night  in  a  handsome,  low  cottonwood  plain  on  the 
south,  where  we  remained  for  the  purpose  of  making  some 
celestial  observations  during  the  night,  and  of  examining  in 
the  morning  a  large  [Maria's]  river  which  comes  in  opposite 
to  us.     Accordingly,  at  an  early  hour, 

Monday,  June  yi,  we  crossed  and  fixed  our  camp  at  the 
point  formed  by  the  junction  of  this  river  with  the  Missouri. 

It  now  became  an  interesting  question,  which  of  these  two 
streams  is  what  the  Minnetarees  call  Ahmateahza,  or  Mis- 
souri, which  they  describe  as  approaching  very  near  to  the 
Columbia,  On  our  right  decision  much  of  the  fate  of  the 
expedition  depends  ;  since  if,  after  ascending  to  the  Rocky 
(/>.  24J)  mountains  or  beyond  them,  we  should  find  that  the 
river  we  were  following  did  not  come  near  the  Columbia,  and 
be  obliged  to  return,  we  should  not  only  lose  the  traveling 
season,  two  months  of  which  have  already  elapsed,  but  prob- 
ably dishearten  the  men  so  much  as  to  induce  them  either 
to  abandon  the  enterprise,  or  yield  us  a  cold  obedience, 
instead  of  the  warm  and  zealous  support  which  they  have 
hitherto  afforded  us.  We  determined,  therefore,  to  examine 
well  before  we  decided  on  our  future  course.  For  this  pur- 
jiose  wc  dispatched  two  canoes  with  three  men  up  each  of 
the  streams,  with  orders  to  ascertain  the  width,  depth,  and 
rapidity  of  the  current,  so  as  to  judge  of  their  comparative 
bodies  of  water.  At  the  same  time  parties  were  sent  out 
by  land  to  penetrate  the  country,"  and  discover  from  the 

"•"  The  commanding  officers  could  not  determine  which  of  these  rivers  or 
branches,  it  was  proper  to  take;  and  therefore  concluded  to  send  a  small  party 
up  each  of  them.  Myself  and  two  men  went  up  the  South  branch,  and  a  Ser- 
jeant and  two  more  up  the  North.  The  parties  went  up  the  two  branches 
about  15  miles.  We  found  the  South  branch  rapid  with  a  great  ni.iny  inlands 
and  the  general  course  South  West.  The  other  party  reported  the  North 
branch  as  less  rapid  and  not  so  deep  as  the  other.  The  North  branch  is 
186  yards  wide  and  the  South  372  yards.  The  water  of  the  South  branch  is 
clear,  and  that  of  the  North  muddy.  About  a  mile  and  a  half  up  the  point 
from  the  confluence,  a  handsome  little  river  falls  into  the  North  branch,  called 
Rose  [or  Tansy]  river."  Gass,  p.  94,  June  3d.  So  it  seems  that  Gass  and  his 
two  men  were  the  first  to  ascend  the  Missouri  above  the  mouth  of  Maria's  river. 


344 


MOUNTAIN  RANGES  IN   rROSI'ECT. 


*   t      < 


1i 


h 


t  i 


rising  grounds,  if  possible,  the  distant  bearings  of  the  two 
rivers;  and  all  were  directed  to  return  toward  evening. 

While  they  were  gone  we  ascended  together  the  high 
grounds  in  the  fork  of  these  two  rivers,  whence  we  had  a 
very  extensive  prospect  of  the  surrounding  country.  On 
every  side  it  was  spread  into  one  vast  plain,  covered  with 
verdure,  in  which  innumerable  herds  of  buffalo  were  roaming, 
attended  by  their  enemies  the  wolves ;  some  flocks  of  elk 
also  were  seen,  and  the  solitary  antelopes  were  scattered  with 
their  young  over  the  face  of  the  plain.  To  the  south  was  a 
range  of  lofty  [up  to  about  6,000  feet ;  Highwood  |  mountains, 
which  we  supposed  to  be  a  continuation  of  the  South  [/".  <•., 
JudithJ  mountain,  stretching  from  S.E.  to  N.W.,  and  termi- 
nating abruptly  about  S.W.  from  us.  These  were  partially 
covered  with  snow  ;  but  at  a  great  distance  behind  them  was  a 
more  lofty  ridge  [Little  Belt  mountains],  completely  covered 
with  snow,  which  seemed  to  follow  the  same  direction  as  the 
first,  reaching  from  W.  to  N.  of  N.W.,  where  their  snowy  tops 
were  blended  with  the  horizon.  The  direction  of  the  rivers 
could  not,  however,  be  long  distinguished,  as  they  were  soon 
lost  in  the  extent  of  the  plain.  On  our  return  we  continued 
our  examination  ;  the  width  of  the  north  branch  [/.<•.,  Maria's 
river]  is  [p.  244)  200  yards,  that  of  the  south  is  372.  The 
north,  although  narrower  and  with  a  gentler  current,  is  deeper 
than  the  south  branch ;  its  waters  are  of  the  same  whitish- 
brown  color,  thickness,  and  turbidncss,  and  run  in  the  same 
boiling  and  rolling  manner  which  has  uniformly  character- 
ized the  Missouri;  its  bed  is  composed  of  some  gravel,  but 
principally  mud.  The  south  fork  [/.  <•.,  the  Missouri  itself] 
is  deeper,  but  its  waters  are  perfectly  transparent ;  its  current 
is  rapid,  but  the  surface  smooth  and  unruffled ;  and  its  bed 
is  composed  of  round  and  flat  smooth  stones,  like  those  of 
rivers  issuing  from  a  mountainous  country. 

The  air  and  character  of  the  north  fork  so  much  resemble 
those  of  the  Missouri  that  almost  all  the  party  believe  that 
to  be  the  true  course  to  be  pursued.  We,  however,  though 
we  have  given  no   decided  opinion,  are  inclined  to  think 


:.  {^ 


TIIK   OUKSTION  OK  THE  TWO   FORKS. 


345 


otherwise ;  because,  although  this  branch  does  give  the  color 
and  character  to  the  Missouri,  yet  these  very  circumstances 
induce  an  opinion  that  it  rises  in  and  runs  through  an  open 
plain  country,  since  if  it  came  from  the  mountains  it  would 
be  clearer — unless,  which  from  the  position  of  the  country 
is  improbable,  it  passed  through  a  vast  extent  of  low  ground 
after  leaving  them.  We  thought  it  probable  that  it  did  not 
even  penetrate  the  Rocky  mountains,  but  drew  its  sources 
from  the  open  country  toward  the  lower  and  middle  parts  of 
the  Saskaskawan,  in  a  direction  north  of  this  place  "  What 
embarrasses  us  most  is  that  the  Indians,  who  appeared  to  be 
well  acquainted  with  the  geography  of  the  country,  have  not 
mentioned  this  northern  river ;  for  "  the  river  which  scolds 
at  all  others,"  as  it  is  termed,'"  must  be,  according  to  their 
account,  one  of  the  rivers  which  we  have  passed  ;  and  if  this 
north  fork  be  the  Missouri,  why  have  they  not  designated 
the  south  branch,  which  they  must  also  have  passed  in  order 
to  reach  the  great  falls  which  they  mention  on  the  Missouri? 
In  the  evening  our  parties  returned,  after  ascending  the 
rivers  in  canoes  for  some  distance  and  then  continuing  on 
foot,  just  leaving  themselves  time  to  return  by(/>.  ^^5)  night. 
The  north  fork  was  less  rapid,  and  therefore  afforded  the 
easiest  navigation ;  the  shallowest  water  of  the  north  was  five 
feet  deep,  that  of  the  south  six  feet.  At  3>^  miles  up  the 
north  fork  is  a  small  river  [TetonJ  coming  in  on  the  left  or 
western  side,  60  feet  wide,  with  a  bold  current  three  feet 


^t 

n 
jit 

Id 
^f 


'■'  Hut  Maria's  river  docs  head  in  the  main  divide  of  the  Rocky  mountains  ; 
some  of  its  sources  are  due  west  of  its  mouth  ;  and  all  the  sources  of  Milk  river 
intervene  between  any  heads  of  Maria's  and  the  Saskatchewan  rivers.  We  must 
remember  that  the  explorers  were  necessarily  ignorant  of  the  very  great  extent 
of  the  Milk  river  region.  Mari.i's  rises  in  the  Rocky  mountains  about  48'^  30', 
and  runs  in  a  very  winding  course,  though  with  a  general  direction  little  S.  of  V,., 
its  mouth  being  but  little  below  48".  The  Great  Northern  Railway  now  follows 
it  uj)  to  Maria's  Pass. 

'"  Translation  of  an  Indian  name,  given  as  "  Ah-mah-tah-ru-spush-sher,"  Clark 
C  249,  and  supposed  to  be  Milk  river,  not  Maria's,  Lewis'  map  of  1806  (made 
by  Clark)  lays  down  a  course,  lettered  "  The  Indi.ins  call  this  the  River  which 
scolds  at  all  other  Rivers,"  which  is  not  far  out  for  Milk  river ;  and  nothing' 
appears  there  to  answer  to  Maria's. 


346 


HOTll    FORKS   MUST   BE    KXI'l.OREl). 


in  depth.  The  party  by  land  had  (rone  up  the  south  fork 
in  a  straight  line  somewhat  north  of  west  for  seven  miles, 
where  they  discovered  that  this  little  river  (Teton]  came 
within  Kxi  yards'"  ot  t!v  "^outh  fork  ;  and  on  returnin^i  down 
it,  found  it  a  handsome  stream,  with  as  much  timber  as  either 
of  the  lary;er  rivers,  consisting  of  the  narrow  and  wide-leaved 
Cottonwood,  some  birch  and  box-elder,  with  an  undergrowth 
of  willows,  rosebushes,  and  currants.  They  also  saw  on  this 
river  a  great  number  of  elk,  and  some  beaver. 

All  these  accounts  were,  however,  very  far  from  deciding 
the  important  question  of  our  future  route.  We  therefore 
determined,  each  of  us,  to  ascend  one  of  the  rivers  during 
a  day  and  a  half's  march,  or  further,  if  necessary  for  our  sat- 
isfaction. Our  hunters  killed  two  buffalo,  si.\  elk,  and  four 
deer  to-day.  Along  the  plains  near  the  junction  are  to 
be  found  the  prickly  pear  in  great  quantities;  the  choke- 
cherry  is  also  very  abundant  in  the  river  low  grounds, 
as  well  as  in  the  ravines  along  the  river-bluffs ;  the  yellow 
and  red  currants  are  not  yet  ripe;  the  gooseberry  is  begin- 
ning to  ripen,  and  the  wild  rose,  which  now  covers  all  the 
low  grounds  near  the  rivers,  is  in  full  bloom.  The  fatigues 
of  the  last  few  days  have  occasioned  some  falling  off  in  the 
appearance  of  the  men ;  who,  not  having  been  able  to  wear 
moccasins,  have  had  their  feet  much  bruised  and  mangled  in 
passing  over  the  stones  and  rough  ground.  They  are,  how- 
ever, perfectly  cheerful,  and  have  an  undiminished  ardor  for 
the  Expedition. 

June  iftJi.  At  the  same  hour  this  morning.  Captain  Lewis 
and  Captain  Clark  set  out  to  explore  the  two  rivers. 

Captain  Lewis,  with  six  men  [Sergeant  Pryor,  Privates 
Drewyer,  Shields,  Windsor,  Cruzatte,  Lepage],  crossed  the 
north  fork  {p.  2^6)  near  the  camp,  below  a  small  island,  from 
which  he  took  a  course  N.  30"  W.  for  4>^  miles,  to  a  com- 
manding eminence.     Here  he  observed  that  the  North  moun- 

"  Cracon  clu  Nez  is  what  this  narrow  isthmus  used  to  be  called.  It  is  given  by 
Governor  Stevens  as  being  in  1855  of  the  same  width  that  is  stated  in  the  text 
(P.  R.  R.  Rep.  XII.  pt.  ii.,  p.  222,  i860). 


THE   NORTH    FORK— UARN  MOUNTAIN. 


347 


xt 


tain,  changiii^j  its  direction  parallel  to  the  Missouri,  turned 
toward  tlie  north,  and  terminated  abruptly  at  the  distance  of 
about  30  miles,  the  point  of  termination  [north  end  of  Bear's 
Paw  mountains'"]  bearinjj  N.  48^  E.  The  South  mountain 
diverges  to  the  south,  and  terminates  abruptly,  its  extremity 
bearinjj  S.  8'^  VV.,  distant  about  20  miles ;  to  the  ri^jht  of  and 
retreating  from  this  extremity  is  a  separate  mountain,  at  the 
distance  of  35  miles,  in  a  direction  S.  38°  VV.,  which,  from 
its  resemblance  to  the  roof  of  a  barn,  he  called  Harn  moun- 
tain. The  north  fork,  which  is  now  on  the  [his|  left,  makes 
a  considerable  bend  to  the  N.W.,  and  on  its  western  border 
a  range  of  hills  [Bee  d'OutardJ,  about  ten  miles  long, 
bearing  from  this  spot  N.  60°  VV.,  runs  parallel  with  it. 
North  of  this  range  of  hills  is  an  elevated  point  of  the  river- 
bluff  on  its  south  side,  bearing  N.  72°  VV.,  about  twelve  miles 
from  us.  Toward  this  he  directed  his  course  across  a  high, 
level,  dry,  open  plain,  which  in  fact  embraces  the  whole 
country  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  The  soil  is  dark,  rich, 
anu  fertile;  yet  the  grass  is  by  no  means  so  luxuriant  as  might 
have  been  expected,  for  it  is  short  and  scarcely  more  than 
sufficient  to  cover  the  ground.  Thero  are  vast  quantities 
of  prickly-pears,  and  myriads  of  gra«shoppers  \Caloptenus 
spretHs\  which  afford  food  for  a  species  of  curlew  \^Numc- 
nins  longirostris\,  which  is  in  great  numbers  in  the  plain. 

He  then  proceeded  up  the  river  to  the  point  of  observation 
they  had  fixed  on  ;  from  which  he  went  two  miles  N.  15°  VV., 
to  a  bluff  point  on  the  north  side  of  the  river;  thence  his 
course  was  N.  30°  VV.  for  two  miles,  to  the  entrance  of  a 
large  creek"  on  the  south.     The  part  of  the  river  along  which 

**  Hearing  in  mind  Captain  Lewis'  present  point  of  view,  we  see  that  IJcar's 
I'aw  and  the  Little  Rockies,  with  the  two  Medicine  Buttes  between  tliem  (these 
being  collectively  his  "  North  "  mountain),  are  in  line,  so  that  they  seem  to  end 
as  said.  Similarly,  his  "  .South"  mountain,  otherwise  Judith's,  is,  witli  tlie  two 
Moccasin  Huttes,  in  line  of  vision  with  Mighwoo<l  mountains  ;  so  that  the  last 
named  are  now  his  "  South  "  mountain,  "  S.  8°  W.  about  20  miles,"  ending  on 
the  west  (his  right  hand,  as  he  looks  south)  in  the  somewhat  isolated  elevation  he 
calls  Barn  mountain,  now  known  as  West  or  Belt  Butte  of  the  Ilighwoods. 

"  Antelope  creek  has  been  the  first  large  southern  tributary  of  Maria's  river 
since  the  Teton  broke  through  the  Cracon  du  Ncz  into  the  Missouri. 


m  •} 


348 


EXI'LORATIOX  OF  THE  NORTH  FORK. 


i! 


I; 


he  passed  is  from  40  to  60  yards  wide,  the  current  strong, 
the  water  deep  and  turbid,  the  banks  faUing  in ;  the  salts, 
coal,  and  mineral  appearances  iire  as  usual,  and  in  every 
respect,  except  as  to  size,  this  river  resembles  the  Missouri. 
The  low  grounds  are  narrow,  but  well  supplied  with  wood  ; 
the  bluffs  are  prin-  (/.  2^^)  cipallv  of  dark  brown  yellow  and 
some  white  clay,  with  freestone  in  some  places.  From  this 
point  the  river  bears  N.  20°  E.  to  a  blufl  on  the  south,  at  the 
distance  of  twelve  miles;  toward  this  he  directed  his  course, 
ascending  the  hills,  which  are  about  200  feet  high,  and  passing 
through  plains  for  three  miles,  till  he  found  the  dry  ravines  " 
so  steep  and  numerous  that  he  resolved  to  return  to  the 
river  and  follow  its  banks.  He  reached  it  about  four  miles 
from  the  beginning  of  his  course,  and  camped  on  the  north  in 
a  bend  among  some  bushes,  which  sheltered  the  party  from 
the  wind.  The  air  was  very  cold,  the  northwest  wind  high  ; 
the  rain  wet  them  to  the  skin.  Resides  the  game  just 
mentioned,  he  observed  buffalo,  elk,  wolves,  and  foxes;  he 
got  a  blaireau  and  a  weasel,"  and  [Drewyer]  wounded  a  large 
brown  bear,  which  it  was  too  late  to  pursue.  Along  the  river 
are  immense  quantities  of  roses,  which  are  now  in  full  bloom, 
and  make  the  low  grounds  a  perfect  garden. 

/ion-  5///.  The  ram  fell  during  the  greater  part  of  last 
night,  and  in  the  morning  the  weather  was  cloudy  and  cold, 
with  a  high  northwest  wind.  At  sunrise  Captain  Lewis  pro- 
ceeded up  the  river  eight  miles,  to  the  bluff  on  the  left  side, 
toward  which  he  had  been  directing  his  course  yesterday. 
Hero  he  found  the  bed  of  a  creek  25  yards  wide  at  the 
entrance,  with  some  timber,  but  no  water,  notwithstanding 
the  rain.  It  is,  indeed,  astonishing  to  observe  the  vast  quan- 
tities of  water  absorbed  by  the  soil  of  the  plains,  which,  being 
opened  in  large  crevices,  presents  a  fine  rich  loam.     At  the 


'•  One  of  these  is  now  known  .is  the  Rl.ick  coulee  (above  Maguire's.)  The  roail 
from  Uenton  to  th.e  Sweet-grass  hills  strikes  it  hi^jher  up.  I  came  down  this 
road  with  Major  Twining   in  Sept.,  1874.     Our  trail  is  ni.irked  on  his  map. 

"Read  beaver.  "  I  killed  a  braro  and  a  beaver.  .  .  .  also  a  very  fine  Mule 
deer,"  Lewis  F  42. 


1  1 


LARK   CREEK— TOWER  MOUNTAIN. 


349 

th.-m      J       '^'  ''PPraich  the  nVer  so  that  he  ascended 

extended  north  two  mL '^  H  ,  h'"""'"  """^  '' 
mountain,  standing  °lo7,  at  thedT,  *T"""'  '  '°"^ 
n.ilos,in  the  directL  NloMV  ■•,„,'" v  l' ,"""'  """"  '° 
figure  he  called  Tower  „,ou„.a^;     "'  ""'*  '™'"— '-> 

wird  hfdilT.'''  ";""  P"^'''^''^  ""  ">«e  t»vo  hills,  and  after. 
.  a  w«e™  c'rsr"""  "^  ""'"■  ""■="  "^  ^^ain  changed 
In  mki  ,"  ■ """''  °  ''"■P  '"•"i  "long  the  south  s.de 

l^^^^^rT'?'"  ""■  I''"'-'  "^  '-""  them    te 

"ftff:  r:  d  ti  T ,::'  ^■^"'■""' "•■•'■  s^-.  quantities 

sected  „e.;r  the  rr.r  h  ,  ^  '        ''■  ""''  '""^°P':<'-  ""d  "'ter. 

"  An  obscure  sentence.     Lewis  E  ji  hn^     ••  ir  ■ 

•which  I  c.„e..  Lark  C.)  the  river  iLt'f  ".j  Z;™     f  :"'^^"-  "^"^  ''^^' 
of  this  creek  the  l.h.ffs  were  verv  u  . .  ,         ^  ^  ■* '"'     "^^  "'^  entrance 

Stard.  side  that  we  as."    led  ,L  -"    •^P>"'-''cd  the  river  so  near  on  the 

ex.ren,ity  of  this  cours^w    r '        j  tr       '"^^^^^  "^^  ''"'"'^  ^  -^^  "- 

The  creek  was  calle.i  Lark  f r  .    1.      ^T''  '"'"'"'  "'"^  '"'•"  '     "  ^  '«''*• " 
carcf..,y  descHl.es    E,^%J;"^     :  ^  ^I'^"-  "<,  ^  ^-1'  "ir     ■.      >  Lewis 

l'ree.hng  .season,  tocether  with  .1,  T  ,       '  •^'""""''"  '"  '^^   '■'•"'•^    '^   'he 

P1.^57,-S8S.     L.„is-  U,k  ..,1.  ,.  ,k.  Ifci  :t;;"    "^  ^•■-  '■  -I"'''  ■';*. 

•An  unfortunate  discrepancy  here      Lewi     F 
single  mountain  which  appeared  to  he  i,  .    ,r\'*l        '  "' ''■=*'-""^'^re'l  »  lofty 
miles,  it  boar  X.   „«  W    fro  n  i,l  '^        '''''""""•  '^"''•'»>"*  ^^"  "^  ""t.re 

M.re  is  a  .lifferenC  ^  J^l^ Z:"  Tu    '  ""^''  "  '••""   •^'-"'-"■•• 
from  proper  .lata  :  so  that  Fow       noun.r  'V'"  '"^'  ''"'   ''^^■"   -"--• 

son,ewhat  famous  Thre  l,tte    i      "  " '^  -other  th.an  the  main  peak  of  the 

of  49°  N.  across  their  nt.r,       n  f oot  h,   ;  ^T.     H    ^  "    ' "''"  ""  '"^  '""^  '''''•^"^•' 
"ould  appear  as  one  mount.aiP  "'"''  ^'°"'  ^'''''''  P"'"'  '^f  view 

the  species  w.as   not    the   P  .  SL    b       tir:  ''   ""'    f   ''"^  •''"""'^'-    ">-^' 
rivers.     See  .Mien,    .Mono.r     v    fT;   ^^^  ^^*'''°"  "^ '^e  .Milk  .and  .M..ria's 


Ifi] 


:    I 


350       THE  THREE  BUTTES  OR  SWEET-GRASS  HILLS. 

passed  a  skirt  of  their  territory  for  seven  miles.  He  also  saw 
near  the  hills  a  flock  of  the  mountain-cock,  or  a  large  species 
of  the  heath-hen,  with  a  long  pointed  tail,  which  the  Indians 
below  had  informed  us  were  common  among  the  Rocky 
mountains.  Having  finished  his  course  of  ten  miles  west 
across  a  bend,  he  continued  two  miles  N.  80*  W.,  and  from 
that  point  discovered  some  lofty  mountains  "  to  the  N.W.  of 
Tower  mountain,  bearing  N.  65"  W.,  at  80  or  100  miles'  dis- 
tance. Here  he  camped  on  the  north  side  in  a  handsome 
low  ground,  on  which  were  several  old  stick-lodges.  He  had 
seen  but  little  timber  on  the  river  in  the  forepart  of  the  day, 
but  here  there  is  a  greater  quantity  than  usual.  The  river 
itself  is  about  80  yards  wide,  from  six  to  ten  feet  deep,  and 
has  a  strong,  steady  current.  The  party  killed  five  elk  and  a 
mule-deer;  and  by  way  of  experiment  roasted  some  burrow- 
ing-squirrels,  which  they  found  to  be  well-flavored  and  tender. 
June  6th.  Captain  Lewis  was  now  [rightly"]  convinced 
that  this  river  pursued  a  direction  too  far  north  for  our 
route  to  the  Pacific,  and  therefore  resolved  to  return;  but 
waited  till  noon  to  take  a  meridian  altitude.  The  clouds, 
however,  which  had  gathered  during  the  latter  part  of  the 
night,  continued  and  prevented  the  observation.  Part  of  the 
men  were  sent  forward  to  a  commanding  eminence,  six  miles 
S.  70"  W.,  from  which  they  saw,  at  the  distance  of  about  15 
miles  S.  80*'  W.,  a  point  of  the  south  bluff  of  the  river,  which 


I  Ml'     I 


■'irfit 


Amer.  Nat.  IX.  1875,  p.  148  seq.     It  was  unknown  to  science  till  1822.     The 
bird  Lewis  here  mentions  is  the  sage-grouse,  Ceniroctreus  urophatianus . 

"  These  are  the  other  two  of  the  Three  Buttes  or  Sweet-grass  hills,  now  separable 
by  the  eye  from  that  one  (Tower  mountain)  which  had  before  intercepted  the 
view  of  them.     See  text  of  July  igth,  1806. 

**  That  is  to  say,  if  the  Expedition  was  to  explore  the  Missouri  to  its  source. 
To  have  followed  up  Maria's  river  and  crossed  the  Continental  Divide  at  Maria's 
Pass,  would  have  been  to  discover  the  present  route  of  the  Great  Northern 
Railway,  north  of  Flathead  and  Pend  d'Oreille  lakes,  over  to  Clark's  fork  of  the 
Columbia.  But  the  glory  of  the  Great  Falls^of  Smith's,  Dearborn's,  Gallatin's 
Madison's,  Jefferson's  rivers^-of  nearly  the  whole  Missouri  above  steamboat 
navigation — would  not  then  have  been  Lewis  and  Clark's.  This  was  worth  striv- 
ing for,  even  though  it  finally  brought  them  to  the  worst  possible  point  whence 
to  reach  the  Columbia. 


>     I 


CAPTAIN  LEWIS'  NARROW  ESCAPE. 


351 


thence  bore  northwardly.  In  their  absence  two  rafts  had 
(/.  24.9 )  been  prepared,  and  when  they  returned,  about  noon, 
the  party  embarked.  But  they  soon  found  that  the  rafts 
were  so  small  and  slender  that  the  baggage  was  wet ;  there- 
fore it  was  necessary  to  abandon  them  and  go  by  land. 
They  therefore  crossed  the  plains,  and  at  the  distance  of 
twelve  miles  came  to  the  river,  through  a  cold  storm  from 
the  northeast,  accompanied  by  showers  of  rain.  The  abrupt- 
ness of  the  cliffs  compelled  them,  after  going  a  few  miles,  to 
leave  the  river  and  meet  the  storm  in  the  plains.  Here  they 
directed  their  course  too  far  northward,  in  consequence  of 
which  they  did  not  stuke  the  river  till  late  at  night,  after 
having  traveled  23  miles  since  noon,  and  halted  at  a  little 
below  the  entrance  of  Lark  creek.  They  had  the  good 
fortune  to  kill  two  buffalo,  which  supplied  them  with  supper ; 
but  spent  a  very  uncomfortable  night  without  any  shelter 
from  the  rain,  which  continued  till  morning, 

Friday,  June  jth,  when  at  an  early  hour  they  continued 
down  the  river.  The  route  was  extremely  unpleasant,  as 
the  wind  was  high  from  the  N.E.,  accompanied  with  rain, 
which  made  the  ground  so  slippery  that  they  were  unable 
to  walk  over  the  bluffs  which  they  had  passed  on  ascend- 
ing the  river.  The  land  is  the  most  thirsty  we  have  ever 
seen  ;  notwithstanding  all  the  rain  which  has  fallen,  the 
earth  is  not  wet  for  more  than  two  inches  deep,  and 
resembles  thawed  ground  ;  but  if  it  requires  more  water  to 
saturate  it  than  the  common  soils,  on  the  other  hand,  it 
yields  its  moisture  with  equal  difficulty. 

In  passing  along  the  side  of  one  of  these  bluffs,  at  a 
narrow  pass  30  yards  in  length,  Captain  Lewis  slipped,  and 
but  for  a  fortunate  recovery  by  means  of  his  espontoon, 
would  have  been  precipitated  into  the  river  over  a  precipice 
of  about  90  feet.  He  had  just  reached  a  spot  where  by  the 
assistance  of  his  espontoon  he  could  stand  with  tolerable 
safety,  when  he  heard  a  voice  behind  him  cry  out,  "  Good 
God!  Captain,  what  shall  I  do?"  He  turned  instantly 
and  found  it  was  Windsor,  who  had  lost  his  foothold  about 


352 


PRIVATE  WINDSOR'S  IMMANENT  PERIL. 


the  middle  (/.  2^0)  of  the  narrow  pass,  and  had  slipped 
down  to  the  very  verge  of  the  precipice,  where  he  lay  on 
his  belly,  with  his  right  arm  and  leg  over  the  precipice, 
while  with  the  other  leg  and  arm  he  was  with  difficulty 
holding  on,  to  keep  himself  from  being  dashed  to  pieces 
below.  His  dreadful  situation  was  instantly  perceived  by 
Captain  Lewis,  who,  stifling  his  alarm,  calmly  told  him  that 
he  was  in  no  danger  ;  that  he  should  take  his  knife  out  of 
his  belt  with  his  right  hand,  and  dig  a  hole  in  the  side 
of  the  bluf?  to  receive  his  right  foot.  With  great  presence 
of  mind  he  did  this,  and  then  raised  himself  on  his  knees. 
Captain  Lewis  then  told  him  to  take  off  his  moccasins  and 
come  forward  on  his  hands  and  knees,  holding  the  knife 
in  one  hand  and  his  rifle  in  the  other.  He  immediately 
crawled  in  this  way  till  he  came  to  a  secure  spot.  The 
men  who  had  not  attempted  this  passage  were  ordered  to 
return  and  wade  the  river  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff,  where 
they  found  the  water  breast-high.  This  adventure  taught 
them  the  danger  of  crossing  the  slippery  heights  of  the 
river ;  but  as  the  plains  were  intersected  by  deep  ravines, 
almost  as  difficult  to  pass,  they  continued  down  the  river, 
sometimes  in  the  mud  of  the  low  grounds,  sometimes  up 
to  their  arms  in  the  water ;  and  when  it  became  too 
deep  to  wade,  they  cut  footholds  with  their  knives  in  the 
sides  of  the  banks.  In  this  way  they  traveled  through 
the  rain,  mud,  and  water,  and  having  made  only  18  miles 
during  the  whole  day,  camped  in  an  old  Indian  lodge 
of  sticks,  which  afforded  them  a  dry  shelter.  Here  they 
cooked  part  of  six  deer  they  had  killed  in  the  course  of 
their  walk,  and  having  eaten  the  only  morsel  they  had 
tasted  during  the  whole  day,  slept  comfortably  on  some 
willow-boughs. 


END   OF  VOL.   I. 


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